Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

This issue is all about great value, but there’s more to bottle shopping than scoring a good bargain. We scoured the country for boutiques that go beyond selection and price to make wine-buying an experience. Turn the page to see what’s in stores. WHAT’S IN STORE SHOP TILL YOU POP No longer does one pop into a store for wine without learning a thing or two. Maybe that education happens through a simple tasting. Maybe it comes from elaborate tags that offer the history of the maker and the grapes. Or perhaps there’s more going on, like a monthly wine club or an outdoor space to enjoy a purchase with friends. These spots around the country do a little something extra for the wine lovers in their neighborhoods. HAWTHORNE…

For generations, Gamay Noir was synonymous with Beaujolais, the French region north of Lyon that sits between the Rhône and Burgundy. A hybrid of Pinot Noir and an ancient white grape called Gouais Blanc, Gamay originated in Burgundy, but a duke banished it in 1395, preferring Pinot Noir in that region. Since then, the grape has also endured the stigma of nouveau bottlings released to market the third Thursday in November, about two months after harvest. These carbonically macerated, tutti-frutti pours, bearing the Beaujolais-Villages or Beaujolais Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC), are high in acid and low in complexity, and their mass-market appeal has led some drinkers to believe that’s all this variety is capable of. While nouveau-style wines still account for a good chunk of Beaujolais’s Gamay production, serious…

A well-balanced wine in a commemorative bottle could be what you need to toast the championship win for your favorite sports team. Mano’s Wine, headquartered in Kansas City, Missouri, specializes in just that: The company produces etched or hand-painted bottles that feature logos and championship rings of pro and collegiate teams. Inside those bottles, most commonly, is a “handcrafted reserve” red blend of 70% Cabernet and 30% Merlot, aged for 15 months in French and American oak. These medium-bodied blends are soft and easy for a sports fan who may not typically have a taste for wine. Some licensed bottles are filled with a California brut sparkler. Though less common, others might feature a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. The red blend is always used for at least one offering…

You know the saying, “Teamwork makes the dream work”? That’s the attitude that a growing number of distilleries have adopted. They’ve cross-pollinated spirits through collaborations with breweries, wineries, farmers and other entities in their areas. Some seek to spotlight homegrown flavors or the impact of terroir; others want to support local businesses; and still others just can’t resist experimenting with whatever materials are at hand, even recently emptied barrels. The following projects illustrate how playing well with others can lead to some boundary-pushing bottlings. TRAIL DISTILLING + J. CHRISTOPHER WINES = Trillium Pink Pinot Gin and Trillium Barrel Reserved Gin At first, Oregon City’s Trail Distilling just wanted to see what would happen. “We wanted to experiment with our gin,” says Co-owner Sara Brennan. “We believe in supporting local businesses.” While breweries or coffee…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials…

GEWURZTRAMINER 95 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2017 Clos Saint Urbain Rangen de Thann Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Honey, crushed mint, pineapple juice and ripe peach on the nose make for a complex combination of flavors. The palate of this wine bundles these in a zesty, concentrated, layered package conveying zest, fruit and smoke. At the core, however, there is power and considerable drive. This wine is lovely now but will evolve for the coming decade if not longer. The finish is off dry to medium sweet and zesty. Drink 2020–2040. Kobrand. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $89 95 Leon Beyer 2011 Comtes d’Eguisheim Pfersigberg Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The headiness of evolution is immediately apparent in this wine. Hints of chalk and honey are lifted and play around subtle notions of dried orange…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 87 Saget la Perrière 2018 La Petite Perriere Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France). Pretty scents of just-ripe peach and melon lead the bouquet of this light and attractive wine, with supporting notes of lemon verbena and sweet clementine essence. It’s light in weight, clean and brisk in feel, with subtle lemon-peel and orange flavors that continue through to the finish. Drink now. Taub Family Selections. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 86 François Lurton 2018 Les Fumées Blanches Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France). Although labeled as a Vin de France, this wine comes from Gascony. With its lightness, crisp herbal and currant flavors, the wine is lively, fruity and ready to drink. Cape Classics. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 86 Liberation de Paris 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France).…

PINOT NOIR 96 Pyramid Valley 2016 Earth Smoke Pinot Noir (Canterbury). The nose of this wine is perfumed with wild strawberries, cherries, crushed dried flowers and streaks of minerals—cool wet stones and damp earth—all gliding onto the palate where a gentle grip of spicy, mineral-smudged tannins are balanced by pristine acidity. Already drinking at its prime, it’s not for the cellar, but it is unadulterated and imbued with the heart and soul. Pyramid Valley Vineyards LLC. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 95 Escarpment 2017 Kiwa Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Martinborough). From 30-year-old vines in deep alluvial gravels, this is a spicy and pristine wine that’s approachable now but is also very cellar worthy. A heady perfume of blueberries, pomegranates, tobacco leaves, scrubby Mediterranean herbs, florals and crushed stones…

CHARDONNAY 93 Sixto 2016 Roza Hills Chardonnay (Washington). This wine comes from vines planted in 1977 at 1,350 above sea level—high by the state’s standards. Half fermented in concrete with the rest in oak barrel before being aged in puncheons, aromas of toast, pineapple, lanolin, cream and spice lead to a full-bodied palate, with textured tropical-fruit flavors. It’s a tasty, full-bodied, rich, very stylistic offering of the variety that need some time in the cellar. Best after 2023. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 92 Co Dinn 2016 Roskamp Vineyard Chardonnay (Snipes Mountain). This wine is a blend of clones 76 and 96 at Roskamp. Appealing aromas of peach, honeycomb, pineapple, lees and lemon curd lead to a creamy, palate-coating mouthfeel, redolent with stone-fruit flavors. A lingering finish caps…

Yes, we know. We talked about India Pale Ales, or IPAs, in last month’s Beer Buying Guide. But let’s face it—love ’em or hate ’em, they’re still the most popular beer style out there today. And, as we’ve also discussed, there are a lot of nuances among the different subcategories of IPAs available. Gone are the days of simply saying, “I’ll have an IPA.” Now, you have to specify what kind you want. Annoying? Maybe. But it’s also amazing. Case in point, last month, we focused on “the haze craze,” or the recent love and adoration for the juicy/hazy category of IPAs. These fruity, flavorful pours appeal to those who enjoy a solid hop presence in their beer but aren’t necessarily looking for enough lupulin to coat their entire palate…

Part cookbook, part travel memoir, Black Sea, by food writer Caroline Eden, explores the culinary landscape that connects Bulgaria, Romania, Ukraine, Turkey and surrounding regions. She re-created this recipe from a dinner she enjoyed with locals in Safranbolu, Turkey. Its name is derived from ancient Byzantine times. Straightforward and comforting, it’s perfect to revive you during cold weather and holiday stress. SACRED ONION SOUP Adapted from Black Sea, Caroline Eden (Quadrille Publishing, 2019) 12 small round shallots, trimmed and peeled2 cups vegetable stock2 cups whole milk3 ounces short-grain white rice, rinsed5 sprigs thymeSalt and fresh-ground black pepper, to taste1 tablespoon salted butter, melted Soak shallots in ice water to temper, about 10 minutes. Drain and set aside. In deep-sided pot, slowly bring vegetable stock to boil over high heat. Add…

In Peru, the Chilcano is a classic highball that features pisco, the country’s signature grape brandy, mixed with ginger ale and a squeeze of lime. At Rosaliné, the West Hollywood restaurant run by Ricardo Zarate, the “godfather of Peruvian cuisine” and native of Lima, ginger kombucha is added to the recipe for a California twist on the original. The lightly fermented tea provides effervescence and zingy spice, while layering in a funky, tangy note for more complexity. CHILCANO Courtesy Jeremy Lake for Rosaliné, West Hollywood, CA 1 ounce pisco or vodka1 ounce BarSol Perfecto Amor or sweet vermouth (see right)½ ounce lime juice½ ounce simple syrupDash of Angostura bitters2–3 ounces ginger kombuchaCandied ginger, for garnish In cocktail shaker, combine first five ingredients with ice. Shake well, then pour into…

As the days grow shorter and the temperatures drop, the time seems right to sip a beer by the fire—or at least feel like you are, with a smoked beer. The story of these brews starts in the Franconia region of Germany, in the 1400s with rauchbier, German for “smoke beer.” Malted barley was dried over an open flame, which resulted in a smoky flavor. The introduction of indirect heat to dry grain later lessened the smokiness. A handful of traditional German breweries still make rauchbier, however, and craft breweries all over are making smoky bottlings. Here are a few to try. AECHT SCHLENKERLA RAUCHBIER MÄRZEN Schlenkerla An award-winning brewery in Bamberg, Germany, it’s one of a handful that’s made rauchbier continuously since the 1400s. With the motto “Preserving…

FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO 92 Mustilli 2017 Sant’Agata dei Goti (Falanghina del Sannio). Enticing scents of green apple, peach blossom and crushed stone mingle together on this elegant white. It’s vibrant and loaded with finesse, offering Anjou pear, Meyer lemon and minerality alongside bright acidity. The crisp, dry finish closes on a ginger note. Communal Brands. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $34 90 Fattoria La Rivolta 2018 Falanghina del Sannio. Heady aromas suggesting ripe apple, honeysuckle and tropical fruit almost jump out of the glass. Reflecting the nose, the bright, medium-bodied palate offers ripe pear, honeydew and tangerine drop candy. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 90 Feudi di San Gregorio 2018 Serrocielo (Falanghina del Sannio). Yellow stone fruit, orange blossom and Mediterranean scrub aromas form the delicate, enticing…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 93 García Figuero 2015 Reserva 15 Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). For full review see page 134. abv: 14.5% Price: $66 92 Bodega Virgen de la Asunción 2015 El Secreto de María (Ribera del Duero). A ripe, concentrated nose is front-loaded with black fruit scents, toasty oak and cool earth aromas. This winner is medium to full by Ribera del Duero standards, and well balanced. Flavors of black cherry and blackberry only get stronger the longer this sits. On the finish, this dries out while feeling chalky and minerally. Drink through 2030. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $27 92 Vizcarra 2014 Celia (Ribera del Duero). A ripe and saturated nose includes aromas of blackberry, prune and mocha. This is big on the palate, but the acidity…

BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 92 Château de l’Aubrade 2016 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supérieur). A powerful wine, this is impressive in its richness. It shows how the quality of the 2016 vintage went right through the range of Bordeaux wines. Its concentration and density is matched by juicy black fruits and freshness. Drink from 2022. Profile Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 92 Château du Pavillon 2016 Cuvée Réservée (Bordeaux Supérieur). This ripe, dense wine has plenty of black fruits as well as structure. It is rich, with a good future. With acidity giving considerable freshness and the tannins still softening, the wine needs some time, so drink from 2022. Eagle Eye Brands. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 92 Château Fleur Haut Gaussens 2016 Grand Vin (Bordeaux Supérieur). An attractively…

WHITE WINES 92 Kovács Nimród 2017 Egri Csillag (Eger). This Egri Csillag is a white wine blend from Eger, Hungary. It is light straw in color with aromas of citrus blossom and ripe peach. On the palate it has pronounced flavors of lemon curd and white peach. The finish is pleasantly acidic and crisp. Nimrod Wines, LLC. —J.J. abv: 12% Price: $NA 92 Oremus 2017 Mandolas Dry Furmint (Tokaji). Straw colored in the glass with green reflections, this Hungarian dry Furmint has aromas of lemon blossom and Granny Smith apple. It is very well balanced with nice minerality and flavors of stone fruit and lemon curd before the pleasantly tart finish. Europvin USA. —J.J. abv: 13% Price: $30 89 Carpinus 2017 Furmint (Tokaji). Straw colored in the glass, this Hungarian…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 93 Concha y Toro 2016 Don Melchor Puente Alto Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente Alto). Well-concentrated berry aromas include rich notes of chocolate, tobacco and earth on this plush yet restrained Cabernet. Spicy berry and cocoa flavors finish dry, long and with a hint of clove. Given the documented difficulties of 2016 in Chile, this can hold its head up. Drink through 2026. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $120 93 Santa Rita 2014 Casa Real Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). For full review see page 135. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 92 Concha y Toro 2016 Terrunyo Pirque Vineyard Block Las Terrazas Cabernet Sauvignon (Pirque). For full review see page 136. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 91 San Pedro 2017 Cabo de Hornos Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley).…

VIOGNIER 89 Jefferson Vineyards 2018 Viognier (Virginia). Marigolds lead the nose on this gleeful Viognier joined by clementines and nectarines. The palate is juicy and bright offering flavors of ripe summer peach, Asian pear and lemon juice. Lime pith enters on the finish, with more ripe peach lingering deliciously. —F.A. abv: 13% Price: $30 88 The Williamsburg Winery 2018 Limited Release Viognier (Monticello). Fresh cut lemons, sweet grasses and white flowers create a summer haze on nose. This is bright on the palate with juicy acidity, lemon juice, apple, canary melon and borage blossom. Papaya, dandelion and lemon juice round out the finish. —F.A. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 87 The Williamsburg Winery 2018 Viognier (Virginia). Loads of pollen, dandelions and tangy fruit qualities define a clean-smelling nose. The palate combines…

As Japan’s only indigenous grape, Koshu struck me with its refined elegance and playful spirit. I had high hopes for my trip across Singapore, Vietnam, Thailand and Japan. As a sommelier, I was determined to try all the local beverages paired with new-to-me food. Except, just four days in, I got hit with sickness to my stomach, and the thought of eating anything more than half a croissant instilled in me the fear of death. And alcohol? Forget about it. Japan was the last country I was visiting. As I was checking out of my hotel and heading to the airport, I saw a half bottle of Adega Vinicola d’Aruga’s 2017 Branca Clareza, a Japanese white wine, in the mini fridge. Screw it, I thought. I’ll pay the $50…

Though considered the second most popular “nut” worldwide, almonds are actually drupes, or stone fruit, and belong to the same genus as cherries, plums and peaches. They can bring a subtle sweetness and rich texture to myriad dishes, and also make for a satisfyingly crunchy snack when eaten out of hand. California is, by far, the leading global producer, but, because of the state’s issues with drought, concerns have been raised over the amount of water required to grow them. Shop wisely, and take a minute to research how the brands you buy are grown. SALT Fino Sherry and salted Marcona almonds is one of the wine world’s most classic pairings. The nutty and saline notes of the wine are practically made for almonds. In turn, almonds bring out…

Stretching more then 200 miles from tip to tip, Puglia is a land of exciting diversity. Many wine lovers are familiar with this southern Italian region’s stalwart grape, Primitivo, but a revisit might be in order to understand the variety’s true range. The most famous is Primitivo di Manduria Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC), a region in the province of Taranto that sits alongside the Ionian Sea. This warm flatland environment has clay and sandy soils that produce rich wines. Flavors of liquor-soaked berries, figs and orange rind are typically bolstered by heavy-handed oak, and it is not uncommon for the alcohol to soar up to 16% abv. However, despite all that power, balance can still be found in examples that maintain plenty of fresh acidity to counteract the lush…

SOAVE CLASSICO 96 Pieropan 2016 Calvarino (Soave Classico). Lemon drop candy, apricot, crushed stone, bitter almond and beeswax are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this intriguing, classy wine, the 45th anniversary edition of what is one of Italy’s most iconic whites. The savory, elegant palate is focused and bright, delivering ripe white stone fruit, citrus, tangy mineral and a hint of baking spice. It’s impeccably balanced, with bright acidity. Enjoy now or hold for even more complexity. Drink through 2031. LUX Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $33 96 Pieropan 2016 La Rocca (Soave Classico). Boasting elegance, structure and flavor, this stunning wine is one of Italy’s premier whites. It opens with aromas of acacia, mature yellow peach, tropical fruit and almond that carry over to…

SPARKLING WINES 96 Chapel Down 2014 Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvée (England). Rounded notes on the nose have the richness of brown butter and toasted hazelnut. The palate confirms this with rich, toasty notes from oak aging, aligned with the Amalfi lemon zest notes that run along a central vein of vibrant freshness. The mousse is superfine and creamy and reveals a chalky depth that is also reminiscent of ripe but tart Cox’s Orange Pippin apple. A very fine sparkling wine of exquisite poise with beautiful length and an astonishing umami finish. ABCK Corp. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $150 96 Nyetimber 2013 Tillington Single Vineyard (England). Chalk, apple blossom and stone play on the subtle nose, and a touch of flint suggests a hint of smokiness. The fine foam fills…

JURANÇON SEC 94 Domaine Cauhapé 2016 C de Cauhapé (Jurançon Sec). Partially wood aged, this blend of five grapes is impressively ripe and concentrated. All about fruitiness and texture, the wine has restrained power from its yellow-fruit flavors and total dryness. Drink from 2022. Planet Wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 93 Lapeyre 2013 Mantoulan (Jurançon Sec). The rarest of the grapes grown in Jurançon, the Camarelet, makes an appearance in the blend of this wine, named after a small area of Jurançon. The grape instills an aromatic honeyed and apricot flavor. The wine’s yellow fruit and tangy spice character are full bodied and intense. It is ready to drink. Charles Neal Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 92 Domaine Bordenave 2017 Encore et Encore (Jurançon…

MTSVANE 92 Shalauri Cellars 2015 Dry White Wine Fermented in Qvevri Mtsvane (Kakheti). This deep amber-colored wine has aromas of orange and butterscotch. It comes on fruit-forward, but then tannins and spice settle in, featuring flavors of apple, lemon, pineapple, roast cashew and smoke. The bold finish offers a distinct floral note. Georgian House of Greater Washington, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 91 Shumi Winery 2017 Iberiuli Qvevri Amber Dry Wine Mtsvane (Kakheti). This amber-colored wine has a nose of white peach and almond blossom. There is a sense of sophistication on the palate, with tongue-coating tannins and flavors of lemon, Bartlett pear and toasted hazelnut that culminate in a spice-laden finish. Interbalt Products. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $16 90 Khareba 2015 Monastery Qvevri Wine…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 92 Charles B. Mitchell 2018 Reserve Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Fair Play). For full review see page 136. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.3% Price: $21 92 Grey Stack 2018 Rosemary’s Block Sauvignon Blanc (Bennett Valley). A perennial, small-production wine to watch, this comes from cool-climate vines and offers a supple texture and mid-weight ripeness. Balanced in acidity, its flavors lean into delicious apricot and peach. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 92 Kitá 2018 Camp 4 Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Tight and fresh aromas of Key lime and grass make for a subtle entry to this zesty bottling. There is great tension on the very stony sip, where rainy cement, lime skin and white-fruit flavors make for a satisfyingly complete package. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $24 91 B Cellars…

It wasn’t long ago that the flavored vodka market was all about crazy, confectionery flavors, from cotton candy to sticky cinnamon bun. While the sweet tooth effect hasn’t completely disappeared, the newest flavored vodkas have taken a more savory turn, ranging from salted to smoky to searing hot. Consider, for example, recent entrants such as Saltworks Property’s Himalayan Pink Salt Vodka, with delicate hints of rosewater and mouthwatering salinity, ideal for a not-so-dirty Martini variation. On the other side of the spectrum, Silver Spur’s Jalapeño Bacon Flavored Vodka has the right mix of vegetal, smoke and sizzle to fire up a Bloody Mary. The newest flavored vodkas have taken a more savory turn, ranging from salted to smoky to searing hot. Interestingly, the flavored vodka category is inherently a bit…