Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

GET ’EM WHILE THEY’RE FRESH Ageability has long been considered a marker of quality, but the tides are turning toward bright, vibrant wines that are ready to drink now. The majority of wine purchased in the U.S. is opened and consumed within a few days. At the same time, there’s a traditional narrative that the very best bottles typically need long cellaring to achieve their full potential. Wines from Bordeaux, Barolo, the Rhône Valley and Napa that fetch top scores and prices are also deemed too big and bold to drink right away; a wait time is pronounced mandatory for them to mature and mellow into their best forms. But expectations are changing about the relationship between quality and age. There’s a growing demand for wines at all price points…

At heart, this is a rum-based Old Fashioned. But rather than fruit muddled in, this drink has the glass rinsed with maraschino liqueur for a subtle cherry-almond hint. This recipe was built to showcase Afrohead, a rum made in Trinidad from Dominican sugarcane, which has a brown sugar and spice flavor profile; any good aged rum can be used. SOUTHERN TOAST Courtesy Kemp Dowdy, general manager, Bird & Bone, Miami Beach ¼ ounce Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur2 ounces Afrohead Premium Aged Dark Rum, or other dark rum¼ ounce simple syrup3 dashes Angostura bittersOrange peel, for garnish Pour maraschino liqueur into rocks glass. Tilt glass and rotate gently to coat inside. Pour out excess. Set glass aside. In mixing glass, combine remaining ingredients and stir. Pour into prepared glass over large…

In The Odyssey, Homer calls pears a “gift from the gods,” and for millennia, writers and painters have considered them to be a symbol of temptation, fertility and longevity. Enticing for those with patience, pears are among the only fruits that don’t ripen well on the tree, where they become mealy. Instead, they’re picked when mature but hard, to be ripened on your counter. The good news is that virtually all supermarket varieties will ripen evenly to sweet perfection; eat them when the neck yields to gentle pressure. The many types of pears can be quite different, but most share certain qualities and complementary flavors that make wine pearing a breeze. HONEY Where many fruits offer a simple tug-of-war between sweet and tart, pears have a complex floral sweetness…

Alexandra Minton, 33 Wine Director/Sommelier, QED Hospitality, Pontchartrain Hotel • New Orleans Making wine easier in the Big Easy Minton oversees all things wine at the multiple restaurants and bars within the historic Pontchartrain Hotel. She focuses these spaces on small-production and natural wines, which includes lots of bubbles, as well as low markups. Minton loves to introduce guests to new discoveries and make wine approachable, and seeks to give wine the same celebratory and attitude-free vibe that defines the Big Easy. Alex Negranza, 30 Coffee Director/Partner, Penny Quarter; Director of Operations, The Pastry War, Tongue-Cut Sparrow, The Nightingale Room • Houston Barista turned bartender Within Bobby Heugel’s expanding Houston bar empire, Negranza’s role spans both the coffee and cocktail worlds. He oversees bar operations at a trio of hotspots…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials…

RED WINES COLLIOURE 91 Les Clos de Paulilles 2017 Collioure. This starts off somewhat reserved, with light scents of plum skin, dried cherry and black tea, as well as a hint of blackberry preserves. Soft herbal tones of garrigue, fennel fronds and celery seed add additional depth and interest. The palate is smooth and silky, with a lovely spiciness that lends lift through the close. The tannins are fine and the acidity soft, resulting in an approachable structure and a delicate finish. The Hirsch Collection. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $30 90 Clos Saint Sebastien 2016 Inspiration Marine (Collioure). This Mourvèdre-led wine, with 10% Grenache Noir, starts off quite quiet and reserved. Spicy, earthy accents of leather, licorice root and fennel fronds float atop a delicate red-fruit core. It shows more…

SILVANER 94 Hans Wirsching 2016 Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg GG Trocken Gold Cap Silvaner (Franken). While juicy and richly textured, there’s plenty of zip and vibe in this dry, deeply satisfying white. Crisp pear and green plum flavors are concentrated and fresh, finishing on zesty notes of lemon peel and crushed stone. Drinks beautifully now, but it’s concentrated enough to improve through 2040 and will likely hold much longer. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 94 Schmitt’s Kinder 2017 Randersackerer Pfülben GG Trocken Silvaner (Franken). Initial notes of smoke and struck flint are pronounced here but dissipate quickly, revealing layers of sunny Asian pear, grapefruit and hazelnut. It’s a decadent and richly textured wine balanced pertly by crisp acidity and a tangy mineral tone. Ready to drink now but has…

WHO 40 tastemakers under 40 years old who shape the way we drink WHERE New York City and San Francisco WHAT A photo shoot celebrating these forward-thinking young professionals, including sommeliers, bartenders and educators WATCH Exclusive video of the winners at winemag.com/40u402019 and turn to page 47 to learn more about what landed these stars on our annual list. Follow us @WineEnthusiast…

Forbidden rice, also known as black rice, gets its dramatic color from high levels of anthocyanins, the same antioxidants that give red grapes their color. Though a little less starchy than the rice typically used for risotto, it makes for an unexpected and nutritious alternative. FORBIDDEN RICE RISOTTO WITH CARROT PESTO 5 cups beef broth 1½ cups dry red wine 4 tablespoons butter, room temperature 1 red onion, minced 1½ cups forbidden rice ½ cup fresh-grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Carrot Pesto (recipe follows) Combine broth and wine in saucepan, and simmer over low heat. In deep skillet or wide-bottomed stockpot over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until deep golden-brown, about 10–15 minutes. Add rice, and stir for 1 minute. Add 1 cup hot broth…

Since leaving office in 2001, former Vice President Al Gore has spent much of the 21st century studying and fighting against climate change. In addition to being a corecipient of the 2007 Nobel Peace Prize for his political efforts to push the climate crisis, Gore is the founder and chairman of The Climate Reality Project (formerly called the Alliance for Climate Protection), author of topical books like An Inconvenient Truth (Rodale Books, 2006) and subject of a two Netflix documentaries on the issue. All of these credentials made him a good choice to be the keynote speaker for Climate Change Leadership Porto Summit—Solutions for the Wine Industry, which was held in Portugal this past March. The three-day conference provided an opportunity for industry leaders to share experiences and both…

As states across the country move to decriminalize and, in some cases, legalize cannabis, many industries seek to take advantage of the growing consumer demand for all things pot, aiming to get their slice of the so-called “Green Rush.” The wine industry is no exception. Ahead, three wine and weed tours to consider for your next weekend getaway. To learn about the science behind pairing cannabis with wine, visit winemag.com/vinesandweeds DENVER MY 420 TOURS (PICTURED) On January 1, 2014, Colorado became the first legal recreational cannabis market in the U.S., and the state has since paved the way for what’s become known as pot tourism. In the Mile High City, the Wine & Weed walking tour begins at a private lounge, where guests will learn about cannabis strains, edibles…

Paso Robles has made quite a name for itself with red Rhône-style blends, but they’re not the only game in town. From the friendly face of Viognier down to attractive strangers like Clairette Blanche, white Rhône varieties are increasingly quenching this region’s warm-weather thirst. Here are five producers to watch. TABLAS CREEK VINEYARD Winemaker Jason Haas’s family not only has a partnership with famous Rhône winemakers the Perrin family, but plantings in the Haas nursery also included some of the first in California from the French region. Today, he’s got some tricks up his sleeve: “I’m excited for Bourboulenc, which we hope to harvest for the first time this year.” ÉCLUSE WINES Owners Steve and Pam Lock add citrusy Grenache Blanc to floral, stone-fruity Viogner in their Prelude bottling.…

PINOT BLANC 92 Elk Cove 2018 Estate Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 130. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $19 91 The Eyrie Vineyards 2017 Pinot Blanc (Dundee Hills). Bright yellow gold and pungent with scents of lemon, grapefruit and green pineapple, this complex yet delicate wine hues closely to the well-established Eyrie style. Perhaps it seems lean to some palates, but it comes with the details to enhance its fruit flavors, adding touches of dried leaf and a refreshing salinity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $23 90 Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2018 David’s Block Pinot Blanc (Eola-Amity Hills). As the low alcohol would suggest, this leans heavily on its strong acidity. Fruit flavors are beyond tart, almost sour, with lemon drop tang and tension. But it’s…

BARBARESCO 96 Cantina del Pino 2015 Albesani (Barbaresco). Camphor, licorice and dried mint aromas align with scents of dark-skinned fruit. Full bodied and impressively structured, it shows energy, precision and finesse, delivering juicy cherry, ripe cranberry, licorice and tobacco. Firm, noble tannins and fresh acidity provide the ageworthy framework. A fantastic performance. Drink 2023–2035. Vinity Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60 96 Cascina delle Rose 2016 Rio Sordo (Barbaresco). More structured than Tre Stelle, this is another intriguing, gorgeous Barbaresco that shows the firm’s hallmark of elegance. It opens with aromas of ripe, dark-skinned fruit, truffle, violet, mint and a compelling earthy note suggesting game. On the youthfully austere palate, tightly wound but noble tannins and bright acidity support juicy Marasca cherry, licorice, mint and brown spice.…

Bartenders have been instrumental in popularizing mezcal, Mexico’s misunderstood indigenous spirit, which is particularly polarizing. A new bar in New York City, The Cabinet, has chosen to showcase the spirit alongside its more well-known cousin, Tequila, and rye whiskey. This may seem like an unlikely trio, but these three spirits “are always the first to disappear from our liquor cabinet,” explains proprietor Greg Boehm. It’s hard to believe all these flavors can be coaxed from the same variety of agave. The Cabinet’s mezcal list is notable in that it includes detailed information about not only the spirits’ brand, but also the mezcalero (the person who makes the mezcal), the region where it was made and the variety of agave used to make it. The menu includes a flight of three…

AMERICA’S 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS In July, Wine Enthusiast celebrated the launch of its 100 Best Wine Restaurants list for 2019 at Lafayette in New York City. Some 300 guests enjoyed wines from event sponsor Shaw-Ross International Importers and bistro-style cuisine. Trade, media and hospitality professionals also enjoyed the opportunity to pose in front of a life-sized W.E. cover for photos. THE BLACK WINE EXPERIENCE Through pairings, tastings and a new awards ceremony, this three-day event celebrated the very best of multicultural wine and winemakers. Held during Essence Fest in New Orleans, it was sponsored by Hue Society. Both the event and the organization strive to connect people of color in the wine industry. PINKNIC A music festival centered around rosé drinks, Pinknic returned to New York City’s Randall Island…

Kaitiakitanga: It’s a word the Māori, the indigenous people of New Zealand, use to describe their guardianship of the land, its people and its culture. It’s also the key value shared by a wave of Māori wineries that’s recently begun to swell across the country. “It’s sustainability on steroids,” says Lina Stroud, business manager of Tiki Wine & Vineyards, a Māori-owned winery in Christchurch. “We see ourselves as caretakers of the land and try to keep our footprint small to make sure that everyone gets to experience the magic of New Zealand.” With fewer than a dozen Māori wineries established, numbers are still small. But last year’s formation of Tuku, a Māori winemakers collective, combined with increased interest from across the country has proven these producers are poised for…

To borrow from Charles Dickens, Beirut is a tale of two cities. Its capital, Lebanon, is messy, erratic and prone to power outages and gridlock. Yet, chic restaurants, rooftop bars and garden hideaways harbor one of the world’s greatest food and wine cultures. Throw in its Mediterranean weather, and you just might extend your stay. Go Deep into Wine Country The Lebanese wine industry reflects the dichotomy of the country. Its history extends 4,000 years, yet it’s fledgling in modern techniques. Native grapes Obaideh and Merwah grow alongside international varieties like Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. For wine lovers, Château Musar in Ghazir, less than 20 miles north of Beirut, is an icon of Lebanese wine. Famous producers Château Ksara and Château Kefraya offer excellent hospitality services in the…

In Santa Barbara County, the mountains do something that happens nowhere else on the West Coast of the Americas: they run from east to west, rather than north to south. So unlike everywhere else where peaks protect the inland areas from the effects of the sea, the county’s prominent valleys open right onto the Pacific Ocean, which is a rather wild, frigid and wind-whipped beast in this corner of California. On the western edge of the long, narrow Santa Ynez Valley—and for all of the wider Santa Maria Valley—that translates to cool temperatures, with fog in the morning and a steady breeze in the afternoon. This allows for deliciously extended ripening seasons for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The reward is that the county offers world-class wine at a tremendous value…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 95 Quilceda Creek 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Quilceda Creek has been a benchmark in Washington since its first vintage in 1979. Aromas of pitch-black cherry, graphite and spice lead to ripe, intense, layered dark-fruit flavors supported by velvety but firm tannins that lead to a warm finish. As always, time in the cellar will serve this wine well. Best after 2026, with a long life beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 15.2% Price: $200 94 DeLille 2015 Grand Ciel Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). There’s no question this is a warm-vintage wine, with its aromas of black cherry, game, licorice, scorched earth, barrel spice and blackberry. The palate brings rich, intense, rollicking dark-fruit flavors that have enough firm, tightly wound tannic structure to stitch them all together. It…

WHITE WINES SANCERRE 94 Henri Bourgeois 2016 Jadis (Sancerre). This top wine in the Bourgeois range is made for aging. Its perfumed apple and citrus fruit and concentrated texture have now blended well together to give a balanced, mature wine. Impressive in its density and richness, it is ready to drink now. Chambers & Chambers. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $60 94 Henri Bourgeois 2016 Le Cotelin (Sancerre). Produced on the Bourgeois family vineyards at Maimbray, this wine was partially fermented in wood. The resulting wine moves easily between freshness and spice, with apple and pink-grapefruit flavors balanced by the mineral, textured edge. The wine is only just ready to drink and will be better from 2020. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $65 94 Joseph Mellot 2016 Cuvée…

PECORINO 91 Ciavolich 2017 Aires Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi). Sourced from pergola-trained vines planted in 2000, nearly half of this Pecorino is fermented in stainless steel, with the remainder fermented in used barrels. Tones of ripe pineapple and melon seamlessly meld with fresh basil and sage on the nose and palate. It is rounded and supple in feel, expertly honed by integrated acidity and a light astringent finish. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 90 Talamonti 2018 Trabocchetto Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi). A concentrated nose of chamomile, lemongrass and yellow apple starts off this delightful white. Rounded in feel, the wine is loaded with plenty of citrus, peach and melon flavors. Juicy acidity keeps it fresh and the flavors persist through the lingering floral finish. Panebianco. Editors’ Choice.…

Even though brewers continue to question what the next big thing in the world of craft beer will be, consumers will forever return to certain classic styles: lagers and stouts, sure, but definitely India pale ales (IPAs). For years, American IPAs have reigned supreme as the flagship style of the domestic craft-beer scene. The category dominates craft offerings on retail shelves and always sees the highest number of submissions in any judgment or competition. It seems we just can’t get enough of the stuff. While interest in juicy or hazy IPAs has been on the rise over the past few years, the style has now hit mainstream. Many brewers have taken playful approaches to the category as a whole. Sure, American beers—especially IPAs—are still quite hoppy, but we’re increasingly searching…