Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

CABERNET STEAK-OUT Around the world, where Cabernet Sauvignon is grown, there’s also a signature treatment for a hunk of meat. Start your global exploration here. Central Coast, CA Cabernet here ranges from lean to lush, depending how high up it’s grown. Spicy, herbal and wood notes are common and in opposition to the fruit-forward expressions found elsewhere in the state. Drink it with TRI-TIP With all that spicy woodiness, these wines are tailor-made for this triangular sirloin-tip smoked over oak. The signature barbecue style of the Central Coast and Central Valley is meaty and lean to match the wine in flavor intensity and body. Washington Cabernet is emerging as the state’s signature grape, grown in warm, dry eastern vineyards. Here, it’s ripe and lush with black fruit and berries,…

Shrimp is the most consumed seafood in the U.S., used in everything from soups, stews and salads to pastas, tacos, stir-fries, curries, ceviche and sushi. Given its ubiquity, it can be tough to know which type to buy. All shrimp are not created equal in terms of sustainability and ethics, so we recommend checking Seafood Watch before purchasing. Beyond that, unless you have access to live ones, buy frozen with no salt or preservatives added. Most shrimp are flash-frozen when they’re caught, so “fresh” usually means thawed. If that’s all you can find, they should be firm and smell fresh. All this wise shopping will help you highlight their quintessentially shrimpy qualities in a variety of ways. SWEET The subtle sweetness of shrimp no doubt accounts for its popularity…

Mora Italiano in Encino, California, is an ode to the striking artistic splendor of 1960s Italy, with a menu that features Executive Chef Mindy Oh’s splashy, produce-driven takes on classic cooking. The pickled raisins in this showstopping vegetable centerpiece are a riff on traditional Italian agrodolce. WHOLE ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH PICKLED GOLDEN RAISINS Courtesy Mindy Oh, executive chef, Mora Italiano, Encino, CA 1 head cauliflower, base trimmed flat, leaves removed¼ cup olive oil½ teaspoon salt¼ teaspoon pepper½ cup pickled golden raisins (recipe follows)1 teaspoon red pepper flakesJuice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)¼ cup chopped cilantro¼ cup chopped mint Heat oven to 400˚F. Place cauliflower upright on baking sheet. In small bowl, combine olive oil, salt and pepper. Using basting brush, coat cauliflower in oil mixture. Cover with foil…

Wine and cider may be separate and distinct beverages, but they do share some vital characteristics: Both are the results of fermentation and made from fruit harvested just once a year. Both can be seriously complex in flavor, yet totally food-friendly. And, lately, a growing number of American producers are blurring their boundaries even further by combining the two categories. Often called apple-grape wines, wine-cider hybrids or vinous ciders, these unique and lively creations are worth exploring. Bottlings are sprouting up in places where apples and grapes can grow equally well, like the Northeast, California and the Pacific Northwest. Here’s a sampling from those regions. AARON BURR APPINETTE WURTSBORO, NY Andy Brennan and his wife, Polly Giragosian, use a mix of orchard-grown and foraged apples from the Hudson Valley…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials…

CARMENÈRE 94 Montes 2016 Purple Angel Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Ripe berry aromas are supported by notes of coffee, mocha, smoldering charcoal and baking spices. A flush palate brings the fruit in quantity, while the flavors are all about quality and emphasize blackened, spicy blackberry, mocha and toast. Given that 2016 was a tough year for red wines in Chile, this is a big success. Drink through 2025. Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $80 92 Undurraga 2016 T.H. Terroir Hunter Carmenère (Peumo). Ripe berry aromas are earthy and show an olive note. In the mouth, this is alert and marches with purpose. Spicy, herbal plum flavors do a slow fade on the finish, confirming that everything is in place on this strong performer from a difficult El Niño vintage.…

BARBARESCO 97 La Ca’ Nova 2016 Montestefano (Barbaresco). Forest floor, red berry, leather and pipe tobacco aromas are front and center. The intense, full-bodied palate offers impressive structure and finesse, delivering succulent Marasca cherry, cinnamon, star anise and a hint of hazelnut alongside assertive but noble tannins and vibrant acidity. It already shows focus and depth, but give it time to fully bloom. Drink 2026–2038. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 97 Musso 2016 Pora (Barbaresco). This has a lovely, alluring nose that evokes rose, iris, woodland berry, new leather and cake spice along with a whiff of camphor. It’s focused and delicious, with juicy Marasca cherry, star anise, clove and mocha flavors framed in taut, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2026–2036. Panebianco. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv:…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 92 Barkan 2016 20 Months Barrel Aged Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Galil). For full review see page 101. Kosher. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 Hayotzer 2016 Auteur Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Dark violet to the eyes, this wine proffers a bouquet of dark plums, cassis and vanilla. It has flavors of blackberry, cherry pie, fennel and white chocolate, with vivid acidity that holds its own against substantial tannins. There is a touch of smoke on the finish that disappears in a burst of cranberry brightness. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 91 Shiloh Winery 2016 Secret Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean Hills). Deep black cherry in color, this wine has a nose of black plum, roasted red pepper and violet. It is sophisticated on the…

I have always struggled with reluctantly standing out. Whether I was the only brown girl in ballet or one of the few women of color in my sorority, my most formative experiences are marked by the extent to which my identity separated me from everybody else. To come from a marginalized community is to carry a certain weight at all times, wherever you go for the rest of your life. It’s the weight of being an unofficial spokesperson for that community and being prepared to speak on its behalf at a moment’s notice. It’s also the knowledge that every little decision you make is subject to additional scrutiny. Take, for example, the act of ordering wine. Unless, perhaps, they’re out to dinner with a new boss or someone else…

Australia’s reputation may ride on Shiraz’s back, but the trophy case for Cabernet Sauvignon is just as packed. It’s one of the country’s most planted varieties, grown from some of the world’s oldest producing vines. This powerful, ageworthy grape thrives in maritime-influenced, dry, moderate climates and it seems to soak up Australia’s various unique terroirs. While it’s made throughout the country, three regions fly the Cab flag highest. The red terra rossa soils of Coonawarra, on the southeast edge of South Australia’s border, between Adelaide and Melbourne, produce some of the country’s richest Cabs, with sturdy tannins, plush dark berry fruit, mint and dried herbs. Offerings from Margaret River, in Western Australia, straddle a line between elegance and power. Their ultrafine tannins and complex, savory aromas evoke the nearby…

Famed British writer Virginia Woolf once said, “Language is wine upon the lips.” Of course, nothing quite pairs like a good book and a great wine. Read on for some favorite pieces of classic literature, paired with pours based on the name or region of the author or text. THE DIVINE COMEDY BY DANTE ALIGHIERI PONTE ALLE RUOTE VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO This light, golden wine is perfect to accompany Dante’s journey through the afterworld. Not only is this crisp, dry bottling made near Florence, close to where Dante wrote his masterpiece, but Vernaccia was also briefly mentioned in the text. THE COUNT OF MONTE CRISTO BY ALEXANDRE DUMAS DOMAINE DU GROS ’NORÉ BANDOL ROSÉ To accompany this French classic about Edmond Dantès’s false imprisonment on an island fortress…

Think Cabernet Sauvignon, and your mind likely takes you to Bordeaux, Napa or maybe even Australia or Washington State. Chances are, South Africa isn’t even on your Cab radar. It should be. South Africa has a long history with Cabernet Sauvignon, both as a varietal and blended wine. Highly rated examples abound, too, including many Stellenbosch-based bottlings from producers with long track records, like Kanonkop, Le Riche, Rust en Vrede, Rustenberg and Waterford. But South African Cabernet Sauvignon was never firmly identified as a consistent exemplar on the international wine stage. It’s time for that to change. The variety is actually the most widely planted red-wine grape in South Africa. The greatest acreage lies within the country’s largest Wine of Origin (WO) area, the Stellenbosch district of the Coastal Region,…

CHARDONNAY 96 Calera 2017 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan). For full review see page 95. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 96 Sanford 2016 La Rinconada Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 96. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 95 Saintsbury 2017 Sangiacomo Green Acres Chardonnay (Carneros). Floral, earthy and beautifully textured, this vineyard-designated white is structured and balanced. The components are lovingly etched in wet stone, white flower and lemon verbena, lasting and lengthy with spicy texture and impressive weight. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $54 95 Seabold 2017 Pelio Upper Block Chardonnay (Monterey). Pristine aromas of honeysuckle, white peach, sea salt caramel and sharp citrus make for a delicious entry on the nose of this bottling by Chris Miller. The sip zips with acid and surrounds a chalky texture,…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 90 Clos Henri 2018 Petit Clos Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Pale-gold in color, this Sauvignon is less brightly fruited and more vegetal than in previous years, but still offers an attractive nose of gooseberries, lime leaf, tangerine, grass and florals. The palate is well balanced, with a viscous texture that’s cut through by pristine acidity and tangy fruit—a refreshing and textural drop at an affordable price. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 90 Clos Henri 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). In line with this biodynamic winery’s attempts to reflect site and vintage as truly as possible, the 2017 Sauvignon is clearly from a cool year. Medium-gold in hue, the restrained nose is a quiet medley of citrus, tomato leaf, flint, salted nuts and toast, thanks to barrel…

GRÜNER VELTLINER 93 Geyerhof 2017 Ried Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Buttery roundness on the nose is reminiscent of baked crumble, in this case of pear and plum crumble. The palate is mellow with rich fruit and roundness, but a lovely, pithy edge keeps the generosity in check. The finish is dry, satisfying and wonderfully long. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $45 93 Geyerhof 2017 Ried Steinleithn Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). A buttery note of ripe Mirabelle plum on the nose suggests richness. The palate comes in with the suggested generosity of yellow plum but is laced with wonderful, pithy and aromatic freshness. There is structure and depth and a wonderfully satisfying, dry freshness on the long finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $45 92 Högl…

Sure, orange liqueurs are key for adding citrusy sweetness to Margaritas, Sidecars and other cocktails. But as the category has become more varied and nuanced, many are enjoyable to sip straight. In a cocktail, the role of a liqueur is to bring “proof, sweetness and seasoning” to the drink, according to Cocktail Codex (Ten Speed Press, October 2018), a new book from the proprietors of Death & Co. and other high-end bars. Some are stronger, some are sweeter, and the flavor profiles can vary from mild and clean (like Cointreau) to rich and boldly spiced (like La Grande Josiane). The flavor is rarely just straightforward orange. As the category has become more varied and nuanced, many are enjoyable to sip straight. Even when orange is a dominant flavor, that too…

AUCTION NAPA VALLEY About 900 people convened at Meadowood Napa Valley in June for the 39th annual auction. This year’s event raised $12 million to support children’s health and education in the region. To celebrate the 75th anniversary of Napa Valley Vintners, 28 current and former board chairs hosted the event, which included a performance by Katy Perry. 1881 NAPA WINE HISTORY MUSEUM Napa Valley’s first museum of wine history hosted a ribbon cutting in Oakville, California, in June. Jean-Charles Boisset, the museum’s proprietor and owner of Boisset Collection, was on hand to greet 250 guests. State Senator Bill Dodd, Linda Reiff of Napa Valley Vintners and The Wine Bible author Karen MacNeil also delivered remarks. NANTUCKET WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL For the 23rd year in a row, wine-lovers, winemakers…

Dreamed up at a luxury resort and casino complex just outside of Washington, D.C., this wine-spiked Cosmopolitan is bouncy and bright. A relatively light style of Riesling adds just enough backbone to stand out against two sweet liqueurs, the citrusy Aperol and floral St-Germain, and makes it a mouthwatering lead-in to a steak dinner. “We wanted to keep the spirit of the cocktail, but evolve it a bit,” says Bruce Cartwright, the director of beverage operations at MGM National Harbor, which offers the drink at Voltaggio Brothers Steak House. “Adding a Kabinett Riesling to our Cosmo gives a touch of extra acidity, an underlying floral hint, cuts the alcohol a little and gives a greater depth of flavor.” COSMOPOLITAN Courtesy Bruce Cartwright, director of beverage operations, Voltaggio Brothers Steak…

The 2016 growing season was unusual for Washington State. As in recent years, it was quite warm, and by late August, the state was ahead of the previous year’s historic heat accumulation. A perfect storm of growing conditions led to larger berries and clusters in some varieties. The harvest came in as much as 30% above expected numbers, even after extensive thinning. Hanging larger amounts of fruit is not necessarily a bad thing, especially in a warm vintage, but then 2016 took a turn. Conditions from mid-September until the end of harvest cooled down considerably, and there was intermittent rain—a rarity in ever-dry eastern Washington. Producers who were not well on top of what was happening in the vineyard in 2016 paid a price in quality. The results of these…

RIESLING 93 Red Newt Cellars 2014 Tango Oaks Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Bright streaks of grapefruit peel, limestone and yellow apple perfume the nose of this Riesling, sourced from a single vineyard on the lower-east side of Seneca Lake. The medium-bodied palate offers a graceful mix of white blossom, lime zest and white-plum flavors, all sitting on a fine, powdery texture. These tones don’t skip a beat and linger on and on. —A.P. abv: 12.1% Price: $NA 92 Hermann J. Wiemer 2016 Late Harvest Estate Bottled and Grown Riesling (Seneca Lake). This late-harvest Riesling shows a beguiling complexity of pine, citrus oil and furniture polish on the nose. The juicy, sweet palate is concentrated in flavors of dried mango and apricot, with saffron and ginger peppering the edges. The well-structured…

CONDRIEU 94 Domaine Martin Clerc 2016 Condrieu. This gorgeously tropical Viognier bursts from nose to palate with notes of fresh, concentrated melon, guava and pineapple. It’s juicy and richly textured but remarkably spry, edged by layers of crushed stone and a floral kiss on the finish. Enjoyable now it should develop depth through 2026. Shiverick Imports. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 94 François Villard 2016 Le Grand Vallon (Condrieu). Lavender and tangerine skins meld into granite tones on the nose of this silky, supple Viognier. Melon and apricot flavors are concentrated and fresh on the palate, offset by sunny acidity and a salty, mineral finish. This voluptuous but elegant wine should drink well through 2030. J.A.E. Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 François Villard 2016 Villa…

ASSYRTIKO 93 Domaine Sigalas 2017 Seven Villages Imergovigli Assyrtiko (Santorini). From the higher altitudes of Santorini, this lean and smoldering white starts with aromas of smoke, sea salt, and white flowers. The style is fresh and focused, with flavors of minerals, citrus rind and spice. A delicious expression of its unique volcanic terroir and location, this is a wine with pedigree and aging potential. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $80 93 Domaine Sigalas 2017 Seven Villages Megalachori Assyrtiko (Santorini). Full-bodied aromas of tropical fruit, honey and smoke reveal the complexity of what is to come here. The wine offers a beautiful balance of saline, smoke, citrus fruit and slate. It has definite aging potential and an overall memorable character very unique to its location. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.…

Pale ales are kind of in the midst of an indentity crisis. To be fair, it’s an easy style to misunderstand. To start, the style’s name doesn’t exactly speak volumes as to what the beer’s about. Typically, if you hear the word “pale,” one immediately thinks of something lacking in color, dull, faded or washed out. So then, why wouldn’t people immediately assume that a pale ale is a light, soft and easy-drinking selection, with little intensity, complexity or character? But actually, the truth is fairly far from that. While there’s quite a bit of stylistic variety, pale ales should not be relegated to boring, light, mindless pours of minimal depth. While it’s true that there’s quite a bit of stylistic variety within the category, pale ales should not be…