Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER & EDITOR Susan Kostrzewa EXECUTIVE EDITOR Jay Spaleta SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF MEDIA MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CONTENT DIRECTOR Marina Vataj DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree EDITORIAL SENIOR EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain DIGITAL SENIOR DIGITAL EDITORS Dylan Garret, Siobhan Wallace ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella JR. SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Evan Spadaccini DESIGN ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Megan Baggott ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Matthew Dimas CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW, Christina…

Picture the scene: Blue sky, green grass, soft picnic blanket below and, in one hand, a vibrant pink wedge of watermelon (preferably salted). In the other hand, of course, is a glass of wine. But what kind? That part is less straightforward. If you’ve ever been disappointed by artificial watermelon flavor, you know that the fruit is incredibly complex and hard to reproduce. It’s often used as a descriptor in tasting notes, so it feels like watermelon tastes only, and distinctly, like watermelon. But there are plenty of nuances to play with when you reach for a bottle. Stick to something light-bodied, chill it well and read on to initiate your own watermelon-pairing experimentation. ♦ HONEY A good, ripe watermelon (look for yellow spots on the rind and a…

From parcels of a mere 45 vines to full-production vineyards, Sweden has a growing wine scene. The thing is, you’ve got to be there to get a taste of them, as many of the wines aren’t exported to the U.S. These four vineyards are worth a visit for both their wines and hospitality offerings, and they’ll give you a real feel for the southern portion of the “Land of the Midnight Sun.” On the southern end of the artistic island of Gotland, a summer getaway for Stockholmers, sits Gute Vingård. The winery is well known for Ädel, a sweet wine made from botrytized Solaris grapes. During the summer, tours are offered starting at $16, which includes tastings of two wines. The property also houses a hostel and a restaurant…

Fans of crisp, savory rosé should familiarize themselves with Italy’s bounty of beautiful pink-hued offerings. While in the past it was not common throughout much of the country, producers from north to south have ramped up production of stellar vini rosati from native and international grapes. There are a number of styles and designations, but the best are bright, vibrant and dry. Here’s your cheat sheet to the best rosatos out there. —K.O. 90 Guerrieri Rizzardi 2018 Classico (Bardolino Chiaretto). Sleek and vibrant, this has alluring aromas of white and yellow spring flower, wild berry and yellow stone fruit. The succulent palate has more structure than most Chiarettos, offering sour cherry, juicy strawberry, honeydew melon and a hint of baking spice before a crisp, dry finish. Elixir Wine Group. Editors’…

Ever since Chile began to climb the global wine ladder in the 1980s and ’90s, it has been varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and, to a lesser extent, varietal Carmenère that have fueled the country’s ascent. But when you take a closer look at what’s happening west of the Andes these days, it is Chile’s blended red wines that have emerged as its best wines. Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère remain dominant players in the overall blend, but often Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Carignan and Malbec along with even more obscure grapes including Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot are included. What a good blend offers is aromatic harmony, textural balance and greater depth and complexity of flavors. That’s right, Chile is in the midst of a red-blend moment, and why not? Bordeaux has long…

ROSÉ OF PINOT NOIR 92 Keller Estate 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap). This is a fresh, high-toned and balanced wine, deliciously layered and balanced in watermelon, strawberry and lime. It is made from Pinot Noir grapes grown on the producer’s La Cruz Vineyard, floral in aromatics and creamy on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $35 91 Cordant 2018 Escolle Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A pale yellowish pink in the glass, this bottling shows chalky aromas of bubblegum and lemon rind on the beautiful nose. There is a strong snap to the palate, where tangy citrus flavors lead into broad nectarine and bubblegum tones. —M.K. abv: 12.8% Price: $30 91 Holman Ranch 2018 Susan’s Saignee Rosé of Pinot Noir (Carmel Valley). A very…

RIESLING 91 Left Foot Charley 2016 Seventh Hill Farm Riesling (Old Mission Peninsula). A stunning nose offers bright clementine, quince, lime and white flowers, with lanolin just beginning to creep in. Ripe peach and yellow-apple flavors mingle with sweet pea and chalk accents on the palate, all honed by zippy lime-laced acidity. Gorgeous quince and pear flavors live long on the finish where the acidity continues to tingle. Editors’ Choice. —F.A. abv: 12.4% Price: $20 91 Verterra 2017 Dry Riesling (Leelanau Peninsula). For full review see page 87. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12% Price: $18 90 Brys 2016 Estate Grown Reserve Riesling (Old Mission Peninsula). Wet rock, white flowers, flint and white peach are graceful on the nose of this reserve Riesling. The lightly sweet palate carries some weight and…

TORO 94 Cartago 2014 Paraje del Pozo (Toro). Initially, this big-time Tempranillo from Bodegas San Román smells lactic and chocolaty, with a hint of marshmallow to go with black cherry and blackberry fruit. On the palate, this is rugged and tough, something you can embrace but can’t avoid. Black cherry, cassis and dark plum flavors finish with cocoa notes, and the more air this sees the better it will perform. Drink through 2030. Grapes of Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $170 93 Elias Mora 2012 2V Premium (Toro). Jammy blackberry, prune and chocolate aromas comprise a prototypical Toro nose. Raw tannins along with fresh acidity make for an intense palate that’s nowhere near at peak, while this tastes of black fruits, toasty oak, chocolate and baking spices.…

WHITE BLENDS 92 Stift Klosterneuburg 2018 Wiener Gemischter Satz. This particular combination of creamy greenery and bright ripe Amalfi lemon is subtle but all the more enticing for that. The light fresh palate takes that theme and plays it to its delicious, creamy, green, fresh conclusion. This is light and subtle, with killer instinct. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 92 Wieninger 2018 Wiener Gemischter Satz. Yeast, stone, earth, pear peel and lemon make for an intriguing nose. The palate is concentrated and firm with zesty freshness but it also comes with an aromatic hay flower vibe. It is lovely, complex, individual and fresh. Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.K. abv: NA Price: $21 91 Mayer am Pfarrplatz 2018 Wiener Gemischter Satz. Tender notes of ripe russet pear are…

Despite the early warning cries that they were a passing trend, sour beers—those fermented with wild yeasts and bacteria—aren’t showing any signs of slowing down. So here we are again, taking yet another walk on the wild side. While sour beers aren’t new—in fact, they are rooted in European brewing traditions that date back hundreds of years—they’ve become surprisingly popular, appealing to beer- and wine-lovers as well as cross drinkers who are fond of an acidic twang in their glass. To make sours, “wild” yeasts or bacteria—like Brettanomyces, Saccharomyces, Pediococcus and Lactobacillus—are added during fermentation. This can be done somewhat naturally, including through the use of a coolship, a broad, open-top vessel, to encourage spontaneous fermentation, or through measured dosing. They might sound funky, but the best sour beers boast…

TASTES LIKE SUMMER The days are long, the sun is shining and we’re ready to enjoy our drinks outside. Here’s what the Wine Enthusiast crew sips to celebrate the season. CL Smooth, a k a C-Minus, a k a Coors Light, hopefully covered in dust while camping or sand while on the beach. Make sure the mountains on the can are blue! —Matt Kettmann, contributing editor Sauvignon Blanc is the adult version of lemonade, puckering up my mouth with bright acidity while backing that zap with a touch of fruity richness. Honestly, I almost can’t drink it in the winter, because to me, it tastes tart for the season. But I crave it in the warmth of summer and can drink a glass every evening before dinner. —Jim Gordon,…

In 2018, when he became the first chef ever nominated for a Nobel Peace Prize, José Andrés had already established an impressive culinary résumé. A few years after emigrating from Spain, he ran the kitchen for Washington, D.C., restaurant Jaleo when it opened in 1993. From there, Andrés and business partner Rob Wilder launched the ThinkFoodGroup family of restaurants, which now comprises 30 venues around the U.S., Caribbean and Mexico. He’s won three James Beard Awards, but a lot of recognition bestowed upon him is also for his humanitarian work. In 2010, he started World Central Kitchen to help feed families affected by the earthquake in Haiti. Since then, it’s organized meals for people affected by disasters around the world, notably in Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria and in…

Two rivers flow through the green hills and mountains of northwest Portugal: the Minho and the Lima. They flow west from Spain out to the Atlantic Ocean. On their way, cutting through the northern area of the Vinho Verde region, they create optimal vineyard conditions for quality white-wine production. In the valleys surrounding these rivers, two ancient grapes dominate production to make some of the area’s best wines: Loureiro, which populates the vineyards of the Lima Valley, and Alvarinho, planted primarily throughout the Minho Valley. Though the two valleys are only part of Vinho Verde, they represent the change that’s sweeping over the whole region. Young producers have bucked the traditional production of inexpensive wines in favor of more concentrated, serious offerings. And, in turn, large producers are challenged to…

From a julep that evokes the feel of feet in the surf to a bracing margarita with a whiff of salinity, bartenders draw inspiration from aquatic influences. Often, there’s more than just a carefree sun-and-sand attitude behind these drinks. Some showcase spirits infused with sea fare like salt or kelp, or spirits with naturally briny characteristics, like smoky, salty Scotch in the Smoke on the Water cocktail. Other creations are more emotionally evocative. For instance, Sean Umstead, owner and bartender at Kingfisher in Durham, North Carolina, says his julep riff reminds him of sipping a cocktail while ocean waves lap against the shore. It incorporates Bourbon infused with mineral-tinged oyster shells to add “a flavor reminiscent of that feeling,” he says. We’ve compiled some of our favorite maritime-influenced tipples to…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear…

CHARDONNAY 94 Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2017 Édition Limitée Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). The winery’s reserve-level cuvée is sourced from the estate vineyard, same as the Arthur, but here the presence of new oak is more forceful, the fruit a bit richer, and the impact of phenolic overtones more noticeable. It’s a young, pungent wine that should benefit from additional bottle age. Drink 2021–2028. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $65 94 Lange 2017 Estate Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). A big-shouldered, bold-flavored, impactfully dense style mixes ripe apple, Meyer lemon and a taste of pineapple in a wine with exceptional concentration. Aged in neutral wood, it picks up just a gentle lick of vanilla winding through the finish. Decant this wine, as it has the depth to reward extra-long aeration. Editors’ Choice.…

PINOT NOIR 93 Two Paddocks 2016 The First Paddock Pinot Noir (Central Otago). This is, hence the name, from proprietor and actor Sam Neill’s first vineyard, planted in 1993. Don’t let the slight barnyard funk put you off (after all, Burgundy excels at this aroma). It dissipates in glass, leaving in its wake something quite beautiful: fresh red cherries, whole bunch stalkiness, an array of florals and spice and a meaty undertone. It’s silky, textured and plump-fruited, with a hearty grip of herbal savory tannins. As per usual with these wines, elegance, complexity and age-worthiness are the name of the game. Serve beside warming, gamy fare or cellar until 2027. Negociants USA–Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $80 93 Valli 2016 Waitaki Vineyard Pinot Noir (Central Otago). Grant…

ROSÉS CÔTES DU RHÔNE 91 Château La Nerthe 2018 Les Cassagne Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). Blossomy and berried, the nose is as lovely as the palate of this perfumed dry rosé. Crisp but concentrated black cherry and raspberry flavors persist, tinged by savory herbs and a hint of tannin on the finish. An elegant, sturdy rosé, it stands up well to food and should hold up well beyond the summer. Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $23 90 Château Saint-Nabor 2018 Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). Fragrant and delightfully spry, this dry, medium-bodied rosé suggests crisp blackberry and raspberry notes marked by crisp acidity. Its punchy, primary style works well as an aperitif or pool-side sipper. It finishes briskly on a kiss of cherry-blossom perfume. Marquee Selections. Best Buy.…

Sometimes it seems like Bourbon and rye get all the attention, but Tennessee whiskey deserves a share of the spotlight, too. Why does it get overlooked? It might be because compared to other styles of American whiskey, fewer producers of Tennessee whiskey exist. Just look at the trajectory of Kentucky’s Bourbon industry and Tennessee whiskey side by side: Before Prohibition, Tennessee had fewer distilleries to begin with, and it chose to start Prohibition early, going dry starting in 1910. After Prohibition was repealed, Tennessee’s comeback was much slower than that of Kentucky. Jack Daniel’s was the sole distillery to start up immediately after repeal. The state’s second legal distillery, George Dickel, took another 25 years to open. The easiest way to explain the category is this: It’s Bourbon, and it’s…

One of the most useful wine gifts I’ve ever received was not wine, but a Le Nez du Vin wine aroma kit. It came with 54 little glass vials with numbers printed on them, alongside matching cards noting the wines and terroirs associated with each aroma. When I got it, I was an unemployed recent college graduate and had just begun my journey into the world of wine. It’s said that the best way to learn about wine is to drink more of it, and so I did, but I couldn’t yet afford the kinds of serious bottles that contained something complex and otherworldly. My new aroma kit helped fill that gap in my education, introducing me to common wine aromas I didn’t encounter on a regular basis like…

At The Quarter Bar in Dallas, frozen “booze pops” that channel childhood memories of skinny Otter Pops or Fla-Vor-Ice sleeves are offered in the summer. Here, we’ve adapted the classic Moscow Mule into a similar format that’s ideal for cooling off on muggy summer days. —Kara Newman MOSCOW MULE BOOZE POPS 3 cups ginger beer9 ounces vodka¾ cup lime juice Combine ingredients in mixing glass or pitcher. Divide among 6 freezer pop molds, close securely, and freeze until solid (ideally overnight). After pops are removed from freezer, they melt fairly quickly to a consistency like granita or firm slushy; serve with straws and cups, if you like. Makes 6. For more polished pops, look for commercial ice-pop pouches at a home goods store or online. Be sure to check…

Maine’s culinary bounty collides with global influences, creative cocktails and natural wines at Little Giant restaurant and it’s all-day café sibling, Giant, in Portland, Maine. The two are owned and operated by Andrew and Briana Volk, who use Tunisian harissa to offer a subtle twist on the state’s signature dish. The split-top buns are uncompromisable—they claim it’s just not a true lobster roll without them. SPICY LOBSTER ROLL Courtesy Briana and Andrew Volk, owners, Giant and Little Giant, Portland, ME 4 split-top hot dog buns3 1½-pound lobsters1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar½ cup mayonnaise1 tablespoon harissaSalt, to tasteChopped cilantro, for garnishChopped scallions, for garnishLay’s Wavy potato chips, to serve (optional) Bring large pot of water to rolling boil. Add lobsters, and cook for 8 minutes. Remove from water, and let…

Dry, packed with fruit and fresh berry flavors yet as pale as can be, rosés from Provence, in the South of France, have taken our summers by storm. These wines are blends of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and, sometimes, Mourvèdre, and occasionally incorporate a small amount of white grapes before pressing to help keep the color pale. There’s always a touch of pepper (that’s the Grenache), spice (Mourvèdre), the slightest hint of structure (Syrah) and plenty of fruit (Cinsault and all the other grapes). In the easterly Côtes de Provence appellation, rosés take on the classic style, fruity and ready to be enjoyed within a year of bottling. Two subappellations, Sainte-Victoire and La Londe, yield more structured, ageworthy wines. The Bandol appellation on the Mediterranean coast, also well known for…

MALBEC 92 Latta 2015 Weinbau Vineyard Malbec (Wahluke Slope). A new vineyard for this wine, the variety is unmistakable. Focused aromas of orange peel, dried herb, dark plum, clove and tar are followed by an outrageously dense, rich, textured palate with an extended finish. A slight medicinal streak runs throughout. It’s high on the hedonism scale. —S.S. abv: NA Price: $45 90 Flying Trout NV Hedges Vineyard Malbec (Red Mountain). A 100% varietal, all coming from the 2014 vintage. The aromas offer subdued notes of plum, orange twist and spice. Plump, ripe, fleshy fruit flavors follow, with a light grip of tannins on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $32 90 Flying Trout NV Mary’s Block Windrow Vineyard Malbec (Walla Walla Valley). Coming from the 2014 vintage,…

CHENIN BLANC 95 Alheit 2017 Huilkrans Chenin Blanc (Citrusdal Mountain). A light, toasty accent wafts from the glass upon first sniff of this beautiful white, transitioning into aromas of grilled apple, dried apple slices, lemon wax, fresh beeswax, lemon basil and orange blossom. The palate is stunning, with a superb texture that wraps around the just-ripe citrus, orchard fruit and bitter melon flavors. It’s superbly balanced, with notes of wood spice, field flowers, lemongrass and fynbos that dance throughout the evolving and lingering finish. While it’s a stunner now, it should age gracefully through 2029. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $100 94 Alheit 2017 Magnetic North Chenin Blanc (Citrusdal Mountain). Lemon balm, cinnamon bark, yellow field flowers, spiced orange tea, just-dried straw and lightly toasted…

ROSATO TOSCANA 91 Fattoria Fibbiano 2018 Rosato (Toscana). A 100% Sangiovese rosé, this opens with inviting aromas of wild berries, grilled herbs and a whiff of culinary spices. On the bright, savory palate, hints of ground clove and white pepper accent juicy red cherry, white peach and citrus while bright acidity gives it a tangy finish. Artisanal Cellars. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $22 90 Castello di Bossi 2018 Rosato (Toscana). A blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, this offers aromas of wild berries and blue flowers. On the tangy palate, fresh acidity brightens red cherry and pomegranate while a white pepper note keeps it savory. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 90 Terre di Talamo 2018 Piano Piano Rosato (Toscana). For full review see page 90. Editors’…