Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER & EDITOR Susan Kostrzewa EXECUTIVE EDITOR Jay Spaleta SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF MEDIA MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo DIGITAL CONTENT DIRECTOR Marina Vataj CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree EDITORIAL SENIOR EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain DIGITAL SENIOR DIGITAL EDITORS Dylan Garret, Siobhan Wallace ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella JR. SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Evan Spadaccini DESIGN ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Megan Baggott ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Matthew Dimas CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW,…

WOMEN OF THE VINE & SPIRITS GLOBAL SYMPOSIUM More than 700 people attended this March event in Napa. Founded by the Wine Enthusiast Social Visionary Wine Star Award winner Deborah Brenner, it was the symposium’s fifth iteration. Speakers included Danica Patrick, Stephanie Gallo, and W.E. Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa and Publisher & Editor Adam Strum. PROWEIN In its 25th year, this international alcohol beverage trade show in Düsseldorf, Germany, broke attendance records. About 61,500 visitors and 6,900 exhibitors attended the March event, according to event producer Messe-Düsseldorf. In addition to the exhibition hall were seminars, including one led by W.E. Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa and the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET). WINE PARIS This inaugural event in February merged two longstanding shows: Vinisud, dedicated to wines of southern France…

Vietnamese Food Any Day, the new book from food writer Andrea Nguyen, offers easy, weeknight-friendly dishes that don’t sacrifice on flavor. This recipe adapts her Lemongrass Pork Chops to skewers, which Nguyen says are akin to what’s found at the country’s popular hawker stalls. To make more of a meal, toss leftover marinade with vegetables to grill and serve as a side. VIETNAMESE LEMONGRASS PORK SKEWERS Adapted from Vietnamese Food Any Day (Ten Speed Press, 2019), by Andrea Nguyen 1½ pounds boneless pork shoulder2 garlic cloves2 tablespoons chopped shallot¼ cup chopped fresh lemongrass (or jarred lemongrass paste)2 tablespoons brown sugar¼ teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper1½ tablespoons vegetable oil1½ tablespoons fish sauce1¼ tablespoons soy sauce½ teaspoon molassesNước chấm sauce (optional) If using wooden skewers, soak in water 1 hour before cooking.…

Yeast is the key ingredient that turns wort, the sugary liquid derived from boiling grain, into beer. While most beer styles call for just one strain of yeast, some brewers push the limits and work with two or more. It can add deeper character and complexity for a taste that truly stands out in the glass. SAMUEL ADAMS SAM ’76 The Boston Beer Company This recent hit combines lager yeast, which enjoys cooler temperatures during fermentation, with ale yeast that’s best bathed in warmth. The beer is both crisp and fruity, reminiscent of a Kölsch. It’s a pleasant everyday sipper, not to mention an oasis during airport layovers. TWO LIGHTS Allagash Brewing Company Both wine lovers and beer fans can get behind this seasonal release brewed with Sauvignon Blanc…

Aligoté is having a bit of a moment. In its native Burgundy, this cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc grapes was prevalent before phylloxera struck in the late 19th century. After the scourge, however, Chardonnay rose as the region’s white grape of choice, and any Aligoté still grown was mainly used for simple wines. Now, the variety’s seeing a resurgence. The formation of Les Aligoteurs association last year cemented the grape’s comeback. The French group, whose sole purpose is to promote the underdog variety, organized a sold-out tasting of more than 50 producers that brought wines from as far back as 1996. New bottlings from North America have popped up, too, mostly from very young plantings and emerging producers. Here’s to this old grape’s new beginnings. ONTARIO, CANADA…

Lightness and transparency in wine have become essential to me. Not in formally rating and reviewing, where anything does and should go, but on a personal level. Indeed, in my professional capacity as a wine reviewer, I use my training, memory, experience and judgement to score a wine. I look for balance, intensity and purity, and if these are appropriately met, the score will be high, regardless of style. My job is to judge quality and describe wine accurately. But tasting and drinking are fundamentally different. When it comes to sipping rather than spitting, I crave lightness and transparency, and I do not mean pours that are puny and thin. On the contrary, I mean elegant and slender. I crave wines that don’t overpower but enliven, wines that invigorate.…

CHARDONNAY 94 Walsh & Sons 2017 Burnside Chardonnay (Margaret River). The latest vintage of Ryan Walsh’s top tier Chardonnay is as joyous to drink as the previous one, although it feels less age-worthy and a little more rustic in style. Lemon hued and slightly cloudy, it offers up heady aromas of bruised apple, nougat, salted nut and oyster shell. The seaside vibes continue on the palate, where the tangy fruit and bright acidity harmonize with a slippery texture and ocean spray saltiness. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 93 Stella Bella 2017 Luminosa Chardonnay (Margaret River). This is classic Margaret River in all the best ways. While it starts off on the fruity, toasty, malolactic side—think ripe tropical fruit, lime and melon, toffee and…

SATÈN 93 Ca’ del Bosco 2014 Vintage Collection Satèn (Franciacorta). Citrus zest, crushed herb, pastry dough and wild herb aromas follow over to the vibrant palate along with lemon, yellow apple and a hint of vanilla. Racy acidity gives it freshness and tension while the silky perlage lends softness and elegance. Santa Margherita USA. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $80 91 Barone Pizzini 2014 Satèn Brut (Franciacorta). Pastry dough, white stone fruit and acacia aromas waft delicately from the glass. Smooth and supple, the fresh elegant palate doles out yellow apple, white peach, candied lemon zest and a hint of white almond. Vibrant acidity brightens the rich flavors while the silky mousse lends finesse. It closes on a savory mineral note. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $45 90 Le Quattro…

This month, we review rums made in Jamaica and Barbados—two very different, but equally delicious, styles of rum. While Barbados rums tend to be rich and luscious, with caramel and spice characteristics further amplified by time spent in former Bourbon casks, Jamaica rums tend to skew a bit lighter and fruitier, with many showing a distinct funkiness. While they surely work solo in daiquiris and other tropical libations, many tiki drinks layer on multiple rums to add complexity. How to use these rums? While they surely work solo in daiquiris and other tropical libations, many tiki drinks layer on multiple rums to add complexity. Interestingly, a handful of rums are one step ahead of that concept, marrying liquid from multiple islands in a single bottle. For example, Plantation Original Dark…

Sometimes it feels like we’ve all become over-programmed. We schedule every moment of our lives on digital calendars, meticulously research hot new restaurants online and use devices to track every step we take and every minute we sleep. So it felt good to cede control during a trip to Italy, where I discovered the magic of the “mystery amaro” game. It all started because I didn’t have a menu in front of me. I had landed in Rome just hours earlier and joined a group for dinner. Still feeling a bit woozy with transatlantic jet lag, my command of Italian limited to just a few phrases, I looked wearily to the waiter after dinner: “Un amaro, per favore.” An amaro, please. Which one? You choose. His eyes twinkled with…

Amy Poehler is no stranger to humor on-screen, where she’s campaigned for Pawnee city council on Parks and Recreation, been a cool mom in the movie Mean Girls and co-hosted Weekend Update on NBC’s iconic Saturday Night Live. But her prowess doesn’t stop in front of the camera; Poehler’s also a talented writer, voice actor and producer. And, with her latest project, Wine Country, which premieres May 10 on Netflix, she’s making her feature-film directorial debut. The comedy was inspired by a tasting trip through the Napa Valley with real-life BFFs and fellow comedians Rachel Dratch, Tina Fey and Maya Rudolph. Here, she talks about exploring wine country and the advantages of working in good company. “Napa is such an amazing place filled with artists and deep thinkers, and…

For such a polarizing vegetable, eggplant is hard to avoid. It’s used around the world and adapts to virtually any cooking method, absorbing flavors with which it’s cooked. But it has many distinct qualities, too, which can make wine pairings challenging and rewarding. Play to its strengths by highlighting your favorite characteristics. ASTRINGENT Though modern eggplant cultivars are bred to be less bitter than those of yore, the vegetable has an astringent quality similar to the tannins in grape skins. The key to pairing is to find a wine with a similar level of tannins. A not-too-tannic Cabernet Sauvignon can have eggplant-friendly flavors like bell pepper, mint and baking spices. CREAMY When cooked, eggplant’s flesh softens to a mouthcoating creaminess. A similarly textured wine could cause both to fall…

In Japan, shochu, the low-proof distilled spirit, outsells saké by far. While both derive their flavor from koji, a mold that converts starch into sugar, shochu can be made from a variety of base ingredients, which allows for a diverse range of flavors. Here’s a quick guide to pairing similar profiles. • CLEAN • Mugi, or barley shochu, can seem weightless, sometimes with a mineral quality akin to spring water. Its mild flavor makes for an excellent palate cleanser, and it can be served chilled, on the rocks or mizuwari, diluted with room-temperature water. It’s a good choice for vodka fans. Pair with sushi and sashimi, smoked fish or caviar. • RICH • Sweet potato shochu is the most popular variety in Japan. The plant is often associated with…

With abundant sunshine and warm weather, most of California exudes an endless summer vibe that’s the envy of many outside its borders. And along with such a bountiful climate comes a jaw-dropping array of grapes that produce some of the world’s best wines. Throughout the past few decades, preferences have been cast for California’s prime varieties. When it comes to white wines, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris or Grigio have emerged as the state’s blanc superstars. These grapes have yielded breathtaking bottlings and catapulted California’s vinous reputation to a level that rivals those of classic European regions with eons of winemaking history and experience. Chardonnay is the state’s most popular white wine and, overall, its most planted grape variety. The aromatic Pinot Gris/Grigio grape as well as nervy Sauvignon…

The challenges faced during the 2017 vintage in northern California are not those anyone alive would like to repeat: record heat, havoc-wreaking thunderstorms and apocalyptic wildfires that destroyed lives and property. A heat wave over Labor Day was the year’s first defining point, an annoying spread of 100˚F-plus days that become, in hindsight, a blessing before the curse of fires hit the night of October 8. More than two years later, it’s time to rejoice for the beautiful wines that were produced by hook or by crook. This forced many to pick earlier than they would have in other years, especially the earlier-ripening varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Now, more than two years later, it’s time to rejoice for the beautiful wines that were produced by hook…

PINOT NOIR 92 Nathan K. 2016 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). A heady mix of ripe red berries, rose, blood orange rind and forest floor starts off this delightful Pinot, with bits of cinnamon spice and earth lingering in the background. Aged in neutral French oak, pure fruit tones shine on the palate. Fresh strawberry and ripe cranberry flavors revolve around a tangy line of acidity that propels the whole silken experience along. A delicate cherry-pit astringency brings some grip to the close. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $33 91 Billsboro 2016 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Sourced from a vineyard on the south-east side of Seneca Lake, this light-ruby Pinot displays pretty aromas of rose and violet, with a dazzling mix of spicy bramble berries on the nose.…

CÔTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉS 93 Château Saint-Maur 2018 Clos de Capelune (Côtes de Provence). As pale as rosé can get, this wine is crisp, herbal and needs some aging. Its fruitiness is developing, giving the potential of richness as well as spiciness. A touch of tannin turns this into a good food wine. Drink from late 2019. Private Cask Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $50 92 Château Léoube 2018 Sécret de Léoube (Côtes de Provence). Produced, like all the wines from this estate, from organically grown grapes, this is a rich, full-bodied wine. The acidity has been reduced by malolactic fermentation and has been replaced by a rounded texture, still with crispness and warm, wild-strawberry fruit flavors. Drink from late 2019. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40…

RIESLING TROCKEN 95 Domdechant Werner 2017 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken GG Gold Cap (Rheingau). While this ripe, intensely peachy wine is plump and plush in mouthfeel, there’s a steely mineral backbone here that lends an upright, stately demeanor. White peach and pink grapefruit flavors are lusciously ripe but pristine, offset by brisk lemon-lime acidity and lingering tones of crushed slate, earth and spice. A complex, deeply satisfying wine to enjoy now–2030. Miller Squared Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $55 94 Domdechant Werner 2017 Hochheim Domdechaney Erste Lage Riesling Trocken (Rheingau). While initially demure on the nose, aeration teases out pretty aromas of rose petal and pink grapefruit here. Dry and quite opulent in style, it offers pristine yet ripe yellow peach and apricot flavors balanced by crisp…

Good news for lager lovers: The style is definitely having a moment. After years of bold, powerful and often hop-forward beers dominating the craft beer scene, lagers are finally seeing their time to shine, as thirsty consumers look for more nuanced, sessionable beers of moderation and restraint. Generally crisper, cleaner and more refreshing than ales, lagers shouldn’t be labeled as boring. Don’t get me wrong. IPAs are still, and likely will remain, a fan favorite, especially when it comes to craft or independent-owned breweries and you consider the wide range of IPA substyles available today. But the reality is, more than 75% of U.S. beer sales are lagers. While the majority of that number comes from macro producers, there’s been a noticeable uptick in quality craft offerings of late. And…

Whether you prefer grand cru Burgundy or low-sulfur pét-nat from Missouri’s Ozark Mountain AVA, the ever-expanding wine bar scene of Los Angeles has your glass. There’s a lot of ground to cover between must-visit neighborhoods like Beverly Hills and Echo Park, but you can squeeze the best spots into just one night, if you have to. To make the most of your experience, ditch the car keys, request a rideshare and hit up these venues. WALLY’S BEVERLY HILLS Wally’s Wine & Spirits is an area stalwart, and you’d be remiss to pass up a visit while in town. Today’s incarnation has evolved from its basic bottle shop days on Westwood Boulevard into a two-location, wine bar/restaurant/gourmet grocery, which co-owner Christian Navarro calls “experiential retail.” The Beverly Hills outpost offers…

“This cocktail is named after the artist Rachel Levit [Ruiz]’s first drawing on our cocktail menu: a lady with a plant for a face in a yoga pose,” says Yana Volfson, beverage director at New York City’s Atla, a contemporary Mexican restaurant. Some might describe the flavor of this sotol-powered drink as vegetal or herbal, but Volfson is a little more precise. “I would say it tastes like green watermelon juice.” FACE PLANT Courtesy Yana Volfson, beverage director, Atla, New York City 1 ounce sotol, preferably Por Siempre¼ ounce Green Chartreuse½ ounce agave nectar1 ounce cucumber juice½ ounce lime juiceMint sprig, for garnish In cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine all ingredients, except garnish. Shake well, and strain into rocks glass over fresh ice cubes. Garnish with mint sprig. WHAT’S…

You crave sun, sand and a chilled glass of Pouilly-Fuissé. But for the longest time, beach vacations have been automatically paired with icy-cold lagers and saccharine-sweet cocktails. From the Caribbean to Asia, many of the world’s most beautiful beaches have lacked a serious wine culture, and by default, good wine. We’re here to declare the end of that era. As interest in food and beverage spreads, restaurants and hotels now offer better cellars and incorporate more local products. These international spots embody the phenomenon, and finally allow wine lovers to drink it all in from the world’s best sandy shores. Bali, Indonesia This Indonesian “Island of the Gods” has long attracted hippies, honeymooners and backpackers. But in truth, Bali offers something for all walks of life. Visitors can attend select…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials…

LA CLAPE 93 Château d’Anglès 2017 Terra Maris (La Clape). This makes a serious impression on the nose right away, with aromas of just-ripe blackberry and boysenberry that are aligned to similarly forward, earthy tones of black tea, tilled soil, fresh lavender, mentholated garrigue and a lick of sea breeze. The medium-weight palate is bold and complex, yet not overly so, with well-defined and structuring tannins that frame the ripe black-fruit flavors and are complemented by ample acidity and fresh wet-slate minerality. It’s hard to resist now, but should evolve to further greatness and nuance through 2029. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —L.B. abv: NA Price: $99 91 Château d’Anglès 2017 Classique Syrah-Grenache-Mourvèdre (La Clape). For full review see page 99. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $18 91 Les Bugadelles 2016…

MALAGOUSIA 92 Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2017 Single Vineyard Malagousia (Drama). Pear, tropical fruit and crushed herb aromas give this memorable wine a sultry start. It’s clean on the palate, with a chalky backbone, mouthwatering apricot and tropical fruit flavors and a lively finish. Nestor Imports. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $21 92 Theopetra Estate 2017 Malagouzia (Meteora). Gorgeous aromas of honey, citrus peel and apricot are followed by lemon pulp, orange and pear on the palate in this layered, elegant wine. The wine has a generous fruity character that’s balanced with good acidity and an overall clean style. Athenee Importers. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $36 91 Wine Art Estate 2017 Plano Malagousia (Macedonia). The nose on this refined wine offers pineapple, mango and citrus-peel aromas. Fresh, elegant and balanced on…