Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

the crush ADVANCED DEGREES CHILL OUT Perk up your palate and take some risks by adding a chill to red wines. While Gamay and Pinot Noir are well-known contenders, the varieties listed here are also ripe for the refrigerator. Whatever you select, serve it at 50–60˚F. CINSAULT Widely planted throughout Southern France, this grape’s thin skin produces delicate tannins well-suited for chilling. It is also known for its flowery aroma and fleshy flavors like strawberry and red cherries, which get racy when chilled. These juicy flavors and the acidity of a chilled Cinsault work well with mildly spicy Thai coconut curry. It’s also a perfect match for white-flesh fish, because it won’t overpower delicate flavors. FRAPPATO This Sicilian grape carries moderate acidity that feels like zipping around on a…

Fresh pineapple is a revelation to anyone raised on the canned stuff. High in both sugar and acid, and with lots of complex flavors, the tropical fruit is also notoriously hard to pair. When you factor in that it can be served in a plethora of ways, from caramelized cake, to spicy salsa and salty pizza, it seems near impossible to settle on a single perfect pairing. Instead, there are a number of wine options to play up its different aspects of juicy-fresh pineapple goodness. Read on to make the most of its exotic bounty. TROPICAL In both taste and appearance, pineapple epitomizes the term “tropical fruit.” It’s exotic and ambrosial, with an almost creamy richness that it shares with balmy-weather brethren like guava, lychee, passion fruit and mango.…

Like a secret blend of seasonings in your signature dish, the barrel in which wine is aged lends distinct characteristics. Some savvy producers use this influence as an advantage, and work with cooperages to specify the density of wood grain or adjust toast levels. Others go a step beyond, however, and create custom barrels. GRAIN UPGRADE Weingut Maximin Grünhaus in Germany’s Mosel Valley is one of the few producers in existence to craft barrels from its estate’s forests, but others without such resources have established cooperages. Philippe Guigal, director/winemaker of Rhône winery E. Guigal, believes his firm’s barrel-making facility gives an advantage. “[It] gives us the opportunity to select and focus on forests that might be lesser known, but reach an equivalent or higher level of quality,” he says.…

Carenn Mackinnon, wine director/assistant general manager at Carpenters Hall, the buzzy new restaurant at The Carpenter Hotel in Austin, Texas, is also a trained cook, which helps explain why the menu so seamlessly merges wine and food. This is one of her favorite ways to showcase spring, when fresh carrots of all shades and sizes come to farmers markets. SEARED DUCK WITH ARUGULA & SPICED BABY CARROTS Courtesy Carenn Mackinnon, wine director/assistant general manager, Carpenters Hall, Austin, TX 12 ounces small carrots (halved lengthwise if more than 1-inch in diameter), peeled1 tablespoon olive oil1 teaspoon cumin seeds1 teaspoon ground corianderSalt and pepper, to taste2 6-ounce boneless duck breasts2 cups arugulaCooked lentils, to serveFresh mint leaves, torn, for garnish Heat oven to 450˚F. Toss carrots with olive oil, cumin seeds and coriander.…

During the heyday of Irish whiskey in the mid-1800s, nearly 90 licensed distilleries dotted Ireland’s countryside, according to the trade group Irish Whiskey Association (IWA). Most were independent operations. But those numbers whittled steadily over time, thanks to a range of political, social and economic factors. First, Ireland’s independence cut off the British Empire’s market. Then, Prohibition in America further cooled demand for Irish whiskey, and unlike some nations, Ireland refused to play ball with bootleggers. By the mid-1900s, Ireland’s weak economy and an isolationist policy, which led to an export ban as well as high domestic taxes, had only made things worse. The country’s distilleries shuttered in vast numbers, and those that survived did so by consolidation. In 1975, only three Irish distilling entities remained. Since then, and particularly…

PAUILLAC 100 Château Pontet-Canet 2016 Pauillac. A voluptuous wine, this is rich and fruity yet properly balanced by a magnificent structure. Pure, crisp and packed with a black currant flavor, this will be a remarkable wine as it develops. Still young, it needs many years to develop. Don’t think about drinking before 2025. K&L Wine Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $159 99 Château Lafite Rothschild 2016 Pauillac. Almost entirely Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine beautifully sums up the density and the richness of this variety in Pauillac. It is impressive, made even more so in this vintage by the ripeness of the tannins, the beautiful, plush fruit and enormous promise. Drink this wine from 2026. Its aging potential is enormous. Millésima USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price:…

CHARDONNAY 92 De Wetshof 2018 Lesca Chardonnay (Robertson). A subtle flintiness graces the nose of this bright and lively wine, with supporting tones of lightly grilled apple, peach pit, lemon verbena and a touch of freshly dried hay. The barely medium-weight palate shows good fruit intensity, with ample apple and underripe peach tones, and a lingering sweet spice accent that adds depth and interest. There’s great cut, thanks to the superbly focused natural acidity, and a clean, mineral freshness that lifts the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $22 92 De Wetshof 2016 Bateleur Chardonnay (Robertson). Aged in new French oak for 12 months, this leads with a pronounced toasty oak character expressed in layers of baking spice, cedar plank-grilled apple, ripe yellow melon, clove-spiked…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 97 Shafer 2014 Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). For full review see page 91. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.5% Price: $295 97 Turnbull 2016 Black Label Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This is a head-turning wine, especially at the price—an impressive study in cohesive elements of black currant, lavender and licorice melded with meaty, lengthy tannin. The black currant gives way to more sumptuous flavors of blueberry and cocoa powder, offering balanced body weight and complexity. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $150 96 Alpha Omega 2015 Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Dr. Crane delivers rewarding complexity and contour within a framework of firm, substantial tannins and stark structure. Leather, grilled meat and gunpowder complement tangy layers of acid-driven cassis and red currant,…

With long days at the beach and outdoor entertaining ushering in summer, now is the time to stock up on refreshing styles of beer, like light lagers, pale ales and easy-drinking IPAs. But perhaps the most iconic style for the season is wheat beer. This light-bodied yet oh-so-satisfying glass of gold is sure to quench your thirst while simultaneously offering complexity and depth of flavor. Belgian-style wheat beers (a k a witbiers, wittes, wits, white) and German weizens (a k a weissbiers, weisses) are some of the most well-balanced and refreshing selections. They’re especially welcome during the summer months, when their assertive carbonation, crisp citrus notes and delicate spice aromas provide a counterbalance to warm weather. Belgian-style wheat beers and German weizens are some of the most well-balanced and refreshing selections. Though…

All gins receive flavor from juniper—it’s just not gin without this piney little berry. But bolder, fruit-flavored bottles have finally arrived. England, gin’s spiritual homeland, has led the trend for a few years, and it’s been worth the wait stateside. The newest crop is audacious, with fruity notes like grapefruit, Marasca cherry and cranberry that will appeal to a wine lover’s palate. Here are four to try. MALFY GIN ROSA From Italy’s Piedmont region, the main flavoring of this pink gin is Sicilian grapefruit. It’s slightly sweet, so the overall effect is similar to pink lemonade. Try it in a spritz-style drink, where it’s lightened with bubbles. Also look for the Con Limone (lemon) and Con Arancia (blood orange) bottlings. LUXARDO SOUR CHERRY GIN This delicious newcomer marries London dry…

Anthony Bourdain called Jeremiah Tower “the first sexy chef,” but his legacy goes beyond his looks. Tower ran the kitchen at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, before opening his own restaurant, Stars, in San Francisco. There, he pioneered the open kitchen and could be found in his stark-white coat and a magnetic grin—always with a glass of Champagne in hand. If you haven’t heard his name, it’s because he’s been relatively quiet since selling Stars in 1998, minus a one-year stint at Tavern on the Green and a 2016 documentary about him, Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent. But his legacy lives on. Here, he talks about a moment in restaurant history and one of his most lasting fine-dining contributions: Champagne by the glass. In the documentary, it seems like…

Strawberry and cilantro add a garden-fresh twist to this margarita variation. You can use a commercial strawberry purée, like Perfect Purée of Napa Valley, or take advantage of the season and make it yourself. Depending on your tastes and the ripeness of your strawberries, you may want to purée them with a little sugar. Bitters added on top of the drink create a dramatic ombré effect, says Johnny Swet, beverage director at The Skylark in New York City. “Not only does it add a splash of color, it provides a nice spice to balance out the sweet strawberries,” he says. THE LOLITA Johnny Swet, beverage director, The Skylark, New York City 2 ounces strawberry puréePinch of ground cinnamon2 ounces silver Tequila, preferably Sauza Silver¾ ounce agave nectar½ ounce lime…

Despite being flush with cash and surrounded by pioneering wineries like J. Lohr, Mount Eden and Ridge, Silicon Valley has never been considered particularly wine-savvy. There are splashy hotels, great outdoor attractions and entertainment options from pro football, hockey and soccer to top-flight concerts, but the beverage scene has markedly lacked luster compared to the other expansive offerings of the tech-driven cultural hub. Thankfully, however, things are slowly changing, as Silicon Valley begins to embrace gourmet restaurants that have expertly curated beverage programs. There’s no real epicenter to the loosely defined region that stretches roughly from San Jose north along the San Francisco Bay into San Mateo County. Many of the most interesting restaurants and wine-tasting experiences are huddled along the leafy downtown streets of small suburban cities like Saratoga,…

RED WINES BIERZO 93 Abad Dom Bueno 2015 Carracedo Mencía (Bierzo). An opaque color and rich but minerally aromas of graham cracker, iodine, schist and mixed berry fruit tell you a lot about this excellent Mencía. Flaovrs of black cherry and dark plum maintain a brisk pace on a juicy finish that’s tight and chiseled. Drink through 2028. Frontier Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50 92 Dominio de Tares 2015 Bembibre Mencía (Bierzo). A black color and deep aromas of berry fruits, vanilla, wood spice and pine set up a full, jammy palate with padding and lushness. Blackberry, dark plum, berry pastry and chocolate flavors finish round, beefy and chewy. This is a loaded Bierzo to drink through 2026. Multiple U.S. importers. —M.S. abv: 15% Price:…

PINOT GRIS 92 Loveblock 2018 Pinot Gris (Marlborough). For full review see page 97. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 90 Marisco Vineyards 2018 The Ned Pinot Gris (Marlborough). Less rosé-hued than the previous vintage, this Pinot Gris is hard not to like. The highly fragranced nose bursts with aromas of apples, lychees, lime blossoms and a touch of honey. The acidity on the palate is crisp but not searing, balanced by a dry, chalky-textured mouthfeel that finishes with a zing of lime zest that has you reaching for another sip. Drink now. Vinovia Wine Group/Marisco Vineyards USA. Best Buy. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $14 89 Greywacke 2016 Pinot Gris (Marlborough). This is a ripe, off-dry wine that’s feeling a little volatile after a few years in bottle. Nevertheless,…

SYRAH 93 Sleight of Hand 2016 Funkadelic Funk Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This is the return of this Rocks District wine to the lineup after a several year absence. Aged 20 months in neutral oak, the aromas exude appealing notes of black olive tapenade, smoked meat, potpourri and fire pit. The palate shows exquisite balance, intensity and restraint to the fruit and savory flavors. A pleasing sense of freshness and a hyperextended finish cap it off. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $60 91 Sleight of Hand 2016 Psychedelic Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Grilled and fresh asparagus, soot, wet rock, black pepper, black olive brine and herb aromas lead to light, elegantly styled fruit and savory flavors that bring a sense of delicacy. It’s a…

JÄGERMEISTER MANIFEST TASTING POWERED BY WINE ENTHUSIAST The liqueur brand moved into the ultra-premium space with the release of its Manifest bottling. In Feburary, Wine Enthusiast Spirits Editor Kara Newman co-hosted a tasting event with specialty cocktails at Existing Conditions in New York City. LA ART SHOW OPENING NIGHT WITH 1849 WINE The LA Art Show kicked off in January with a party thrown by event sponsor 1849 Wine. The brand poured five wines that boast labels designed by internationally renowned street artist, Saber. Alex “Defer” Kizu’s onsite work was sold at auction to raise additional funds for St. Jude’s Children’s Research Hospital. PREMIERE NAPA VALLEY Organized by Napa Valley Vintners, this February event was held at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena, California. Members of…

Cold Cola Rouge HOXIE Josh Rosenstein, the maker of Hoxie, admits a preference for hybrid varieties like Chambourcin and Vidal Blanc, and he sources much of his fruit from Augusta, Missouri, the first American Viticultural Area (AVA). Hoxie makes its own cola for this Kalimotxo-inspired can, which is blended with Chambourcin. Rosenstein believes that we’ll see “the consumer spritzing year-round.” The Underwood Mei Wine UNDERWOOD WINE COMPANY Canned wine giant Underwood works with growers from around Oregon. “The products are…not taking themselves too seriously,” says Underwood Founder Ryan Harms. This limited seasonal collaboration with Mei Lin, chef/partner at Nightshade in LA, is made with Riesling, guava, lemongrass, lychee, yuzu, tea, elderflower and almond. Dry Rosé Wine Spritzer PORTLAND SANGRIA Ryan Sharp, winemaker at Portland Sangria, sources all of his ingredients…

In the March issue, we highlighted all that Argentina has to offer beyond Malbec. But sometimes, what you really crave is this blockbuster, in all its lush and fruity glory. You want that deep, dark color backed by bold aromas and husky flavors of black fruits and oak; and you want it with empanadas and a juicy steak off the grill. Originally a Bordeaux grape, Malbec now makes up about half of Argentina’s wine exports. From Mendoza, the heart of Argentina’s wine country, up north to San Juan and Salta, the grape reflects the many terroirs from which it hails. When grown in warm regions to the north, Malbec is often dark, higher in alcohol and inflected with oak. From the higher, cooler reaches of Mendoza, the wines tend…

If you can add something to make a wine smell or taste better, why wouldn’t you? Baseball fans commonly refer to the period of time when numerous high-profile players took performance-enhancing drugs as the “Steroid Era.” In wine, it can be mused that we are now living in the “Additive Era,” in which it is not unusual for wines to be highly manipulated. Wine color too light? Add some Mega Purple. Looking for more oak influence or additional tannin? Some oak extract could do the trick. Technology exists that can alter just about any aspect of a wine. The natural end point is making synthetic wine without grapes, which people are doing. One might expect manipulation in entry-level wines, which are aiming more for Coca Cola-like consistency than embracing…

The year 2014 was one of the coolest, wettest ones in recent memory on mainland Italy, and the Montalcino region in Tuscany was no exception. But thanks to the expertise of dedicated producers, there are some lovely Brunellos from this just-released vintage of varietal Sangiovese wines. With few exceptions, the 2014s are vibrant, loaded with finesse and ready to be enjoyed now and for the next several years. They’ll offer sheer drinking pleasure in the near term, while the wait continues for 2013 bottlings to fully develop. Many Montalcino producers compared the 2014 growing conditions to the washout experienced in 2002. An unseasonably warm, wet winter segued into an extremely wet, cool spring. After a brief respite in early June, heavy rains and unusually cool temperatures returned along with hailstorms…

WHITE WINES VINHO VERDE 91 Wines & Winemakers 2017 Nostalgia Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Alvarinho at its best in the subregion of Monção and Melgaço shines through this ripe, creamy wine. Crisp apples are lifted by a squeeze of lime while always freshened with bright acidity. The wine will be better when it softens some of its fruitiness, so drink from late 2019. Costa Nova. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 90 Valados de Melgaço 2017 Reserva Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). This 100% Alvarinho comes from the Monção and Melgaço subregion, which is recognized as the homeland for this grape. The wine is superripe, beautifully structured and packed with rich fruits. Juicy apples dominate this floral wine with its great acidity and fresh, textured aftertaste. Drink from late 2019. Sommtable.com. —R.V. abv:…

CARIGNAN 91 P.S. Garcia 2015 Vigno Carignan (Maule Valley). Licorice, lemon peel, blackberry and peppery aromas fill out a nose with depth and complexity. This dry-farmed Carignan from vines planted 60 years ago feels fleshy and full of fruit. Flavorwise, minerally rocky notes accent core plum, berry and mixed spices, while this is firm and doesn’t waver or vary on the finish. Drink through 2024. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 90 Gillmore 2014 Vigno Old Vines Dry Farmed Carignan (Maule Valley). Gillmore is a trusted name for Maule Carignan. This offers blackberry, plum and coffee aromas on an intense nose. A tight palate with inward-pulling tannins holds plum, black currant and salty flavors that are racy and bold when totaled up. Dry tannins and an element of…

When it comes to añejo Tequila, most producers go the extra mile. That’s a good thing for those who already love the stuff. But it’s also good news for those who are accustomed to drinking brown spirits like whiskey or brandy and are seeking something a little different. In order to be called añejo (or aged), the agave-based spirit needs to be held in barrels for longer than a year. However, many rest in oak barrels for 18 months to as long as three years. After that, they’re considered extra añejo. Echoing what’s going on with other brown spirits—particularly whiskey—producers are continuing to work with unusual barrel finishes. For example, northern California distillery Savage & Cooke imports the Tequila brand Ayate and lends them a wine-country connection. After 12 months…

The liquid danced gold as a shaft of light electrified the glass. Delicate aromas of nutmeg, caramel and vanilla hinted at a shy pour, but on the tongue, it exploded with bright lemon, cinnamon and cocoa flavors, topped off with a sea-salt finish. But the reverent whispers erupting down the table weren’t merely a response to a great tasting. This Sercial Madeira was 176 years old, and it exuded a life that connected all of us to a long-gone era in one delicious instant. Bottled in 1846 and recorked in 1871, the fortified wine was one of a large collection of 18th- and 19th-century Madeiras unearthed during renovations of New Jersey’s Liberty Hall Museum. The collection had lain in wait in a walled-up cellar that was virtually untouched since…