Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Blood and Sangria Courtesy of Aaron Paul, beverage director, Alta Group, San Francisco This drink is a mash-up between a sangria and the Blood and Sand, a classic cocktail usually made with Scotch, orange juice and sweet vermouth. It includes two Italian wines: Sangiovese, a red grape native to Tuscany, lends hints of cherry and violet to a brandy-based riff, while a splash of Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine from the Emilia-Romagna region, adds fizz and fruit. 1 ounce brandy1 ounce Tuscan Sangiovese-based wine¾ ounce blood orange juice½ ounce Cherry Heering¼ ounce Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao¼ ounce lime juiceLambrusco, to topBlood orange slice, for garnish In cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine all ingredients except Lambrusco and garnish. Shake well, and strain into Burgundy glass. Fill glass with fresh…

Cannabis and hops (the flowering cones that lend aromas, flavors and bitterness to beer) are cousins in the Cannabaceae plant family. They have similar fragrances but a notable difference: Cannabis contains THC, the psychoactive component that creates the sensation of being high. Thus, hops and cannabis have stayed in their separate government-mandated lanes, one legal, the other not. Combining alcohol and THC is also illegal. As recreational cannabis is allowed in more states, however, brewers have started to merge the plants. “It’s kind of the birth and the start of this whole area,” says Keith Villa, founder of Blue Moon Brewing Co. “It’s a situation that comes around once in a lifetime.” Last year, Villa retired as brewmaster from Miller Coors and launched Ceria Beverages with his wife, Jodi.…

The practice of combining multiple grape varieties for fermentation is nothing new. In the Old World, inky Syrah from France’s Côte-Rôtie was historically enhanced with floral Viognier. And in California, the wine industry was more or less built on field blends of varieties planted willy-nilly prior to Prohibition. As more consideration was put into where vines were planted, this concept of co-fermentation fell increasingly out of fashion. But today, interest is reemerging across America, and especially throughout California. Winemakers who employ the technique believe it allows for new, naturally derived flavor profiles. While it can be difficult to find different grapes that ripen at the same time, they feel the successes stand out in comparison to varietal wines or typical blends. Northern California vintners Morgan-Twain Peterson, MW, of Bedrock…

When basil starts to sprout in gardens and sunny window boxes, make this refreshing, bubbly drink. Inspired by the popular Aperol Spritz, Steen Bojsen-Møller, beverage director at Birba Palm Springs in California, sought to create a less-sweet variation with an herbaceous flavor. An added bonus: “It comes out a beautiful bright green color, which also makes you feel like you’re drinking something healthy.” BASIL SPRITZ Courtesy Steen Bojsen-Møller, beverage director, Birba Palm Springs, CA 1 ½ ounces vodka1 ounce basil syrup*1 ounce lemon juice3 ounces sparkling wineDash of soda waterBasil leaf, for garnish Combine all ingredients in highball glass filled with ice. Garnish with basil leaf. *BASIL SYRUP ¼ cup fresh basil leaves (no stems)1 cup sugar In small saucepan, bring 1 cup water to boil. Add basil leaves,…

In the late 1970s and early ’80s, a handful of Piedmont’s top producers like Elio Altare and Michele Chiarlo started to eliminate grape bunches, known as crop thinning or green harvesting. It was a practice already employed in top French appellations to lower yields and improve quality. Locals thought these trailblazers were crazy. Seeing clusters of perfectly good grapes on the ground, growers with vineyards near Chiarlo even asked the parish priest to intervene to stop what they saw as sacrilege. Fast-forward to today’s warmer, drier growing conditions, and this now-commonplace practice has contributed to naturally higher alcohol levels and lowered fresh acidity. It’s time to rethink things. The idea behind the method is that fewer bunches per vine allow for better grape ripening, which generates more concentrated wines…

PINOT NOIR 95 Brick House 2016 Evelyn’s Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This reserve-level, best barrel selection is a 50-50 blend of Pommard and Dijon clones. It’s lushly fruity, with lovely cherry flavors that take a deep dive into a textural finish. The flavors linger and evolve, adding hints of lemon rind, grapefruit, minerality and saline rock. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $60 94 Brick House 2016 Les Dijonnais Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Fresh, aromatic and juicy, this deliciously complex wine incorporates the extra texture of biodynamically farmed grapes, adding details and length. Citrus, berry, a dash of Dr Pepper soda and a solid foundation of stone make for a firm, age-worthy wine. It spent 15 months in one-third new French oak. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $52 94 Hyland…

HAUT-MÉDOC 93 Château Bel Air Gloria 2016 Haut-Médoc. Smoky with flavors of the wood aging, this wine is also rich and concentrated with firm tannins. Situated just inland from Saint-Julien and made by the owners of Château Gloria, the vineyard has produced a full wine with a serious structure and dark black fruitiness. Drink this ageworthy wine from 2024. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 93 Château Cambon la Pelouse 2016 Haut-Médoc. This is a rich wine with generous tannins and dense black-plum fruits. A hint of dark chocolate gives the wine its rich texture and edge of extraction that will not detract from the delicious ripe fruitiness and potential. Drink from 2023. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20 93 Château Cantemerle 2016…

RIESLING TROCKEN 93 Robert Weil 2017 Kiedricher Riesling Trocken (Rheingau). Whiffs of grapefruit are tinged by a crystalline mineral tone in this zippy yet satisfying, juicy dry Riesling. It’s spry and medium bodied in style but bursts from the glass with flavors of crisp Asian pear, citrus and quince. This lovely wine should drink well through 2027. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $38 93 Tesch 2017 Laubenheimer St. Remigiusberg Riesling Trocken (Nahe). Bright tangerine and white-blossom aromas abound in this fresh and fruity, yet impressive dry wine. White-grapefruit and lime flavors are concentrated and pleasantly puckering on the palate, offset by a silky rippling mouthfeel and crisp mineral tones. It is an elegant, substantial wine to enjoy now–2027. Tri-Vin Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5%…

As the seasons change and warm weather reigns once again, our minds naturally turn to refreshing, thirst-quenching selections to beat the heat. There is a bevy of beer styles to choose from to satisfy this need, but some of the best options are golden in color, like glasses of liquid sunshine. To start, consider a blonde ale. Blonde ales are generally crisp, clean and refreshing pours, with a brilliant pale yellow to deep gold color. They are usually all-malt brews that are a step up from lagers in terms of body, bitterness and fruit profile, though they are not considered assertive in any of those elements. There is a bevy of refreshing, thirst-quenching beer styles to choose from to beat the heat. Next comes saison, the French word for season,…

Whiskey Renaissance Courtesy of Nicholas Murray, director of beverage and food, Renaissance Hotels, Toledo, OH Native to Sicily, the Nero d’Avola grape produces wines with a dark, robust character. It’s the right choice for this variation on the New York Sour. A float of the full-bodied red wine adds acidity and a striking ruby hue. 2 ounces Bulleit Rye Whiskey¼ ounce orange liqueur1 ounce simple syrup1 ounce lemon juice1 ounce Nero d’AvolaBrandied cherry, for garnish In cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine first four ingredients. Shake well, and strain into rocks glass over fresh ice. Gently pour Nero d’Avola over back side of spoon to float atop drink. Garnish with brandied cherry. Dirty Martini Courtesy of McLain Hedges, beverage director, Morin, Denver A complex take on the classic Dirty Martini,…

Boars demolish ripened grapes before harvest, damage vines and grub up roots. Grapes and their vines can be irresistible to many creatures. While insects like phylloxera are known for their destruction, there’s a variety of other animals that terrorize growers around the world. BOARS Throughout Germany, France and Italy, wild boars are beastly. Capable of growing to more than 200 pounds and eating up to 5% of their bodyweight daily, they demolish ripened grapes before harvest, damage vines and grub up roots. In Chianti Classico, losses to boars are estimated between $11–16 million annually. And, in the Mosel, troves of them erode soil and create slip-and-slides that topple vines and workers. Solutions are limited. Mostly vegetarian, Ernst Loosen, owner of Dr. Loosen, occasionally enjoys honeyed Riesling auslese alongside boar…

Though cooking root to leaf isn’t a novel concept, Cooking with Scraps by Lindsay-Jean Hard offers innovative new recipes to make the most of lesser-appreciated parts of produce like rinds, seeds and stems. And with each American currently wasting about a pound of food a year, now is a great time to get into a scrappier mindset. This recipe demonstrates a simple technique to prepare beet greens that could be applied to any similar leaves soon to be populating farmers markets. BEET GREENS SALAD WITH WARM GOAT CHEESE ROUNDS Adapted from Cooking with Scraps (Workman Publishing Company, 2018) by Lindsay-Jean Hard 1 5-ounce log goat cheese½ cup all-purpose flour1 egg½ cup panko or fine breadcrumbsGrapeseed oil, for frying1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar¼ cup extra-virgin olive oilFine-grain sea salt, to tasteFresh-ground…

Carignan looks perfect on paper. Late buds offer protection from spring frosts, while late ripening allows for a long maturation period. That means grapes that exhibit their most ideal characteristics—medium tannins, fresh acidity, red fruit tones and earthy spice—are way more possible. High yields and susceptibility to mildew and rot, however, have led to a past glut of mediocre bottles. Researchers link Carignan’s origin to 15th-century Cariñena in Aragon, Spain, and it was introduced to Sardinia sometime before the 18th century. But it’s best known as a workhorse and a key component of red-wine blends in Southern France, especially those from Languedoc-Roussillon. These days, thanks to better vineyard management and lower-yielding old vines, varietal Carignan wines from all over the world tempt with tart red-fruit notes, baking spices and…

Sun-soaked Australia may not be the first place that comes to mind when searching for lithe, light-bodied reds. But in a land as vast and diverse as Oz, cool-climate regions abound, as do acidity-loving producers of all shapes and sizes looking to lighten things up. The most renowned light red variety, Pinot Noir, thrives in regions like Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula and Tasmania. Several seriously classy examples from Yarra Valley include Giant Steps and Ben Haines, which combine crunchy, juicy fruit with complex savory and herbal notes. Cool-climate regions abound, as do acidity-loving producers of all shapes and sizes looking to lighten things up. South Australia’s McLaren Vale may not be a cool-climate region, but it has a secret weapon: Grenache. This heat-loving variety can yield bright and bouncy wines,…

CABERNET FRANC 90 Bonacquisti 2017 Cabernet Franc (Colorado). Cedar, black cherry, vanilla and cinnamon aromas are powerful on the nose, sprinkled with white pepper. Dusty tannins persist from start to finish, balanced by plenty of buoyant acidity. Flavors of cassis and pomegranate are blended with savory bay leaf, pepper, vanilla and tobacco. The tannins turn slightly gritty on the finish, bringing a robust charred oak flavor that’s paired with dark berries. Drink from 2020 so tannins have time to settle. Editors’ Choice. —F.A. abv: 14% Price: $22 88 The Infinite Monkey Theorem 2017 Cabernet Franc (Grand Valley). Blueberry and black raspberry aromas define the nose and are joined by notes of green tobacco leaf, anise and mulch. The fruit-driven, approachable palate offers bright cranberry, pomegranate and raspberry flavors. Dusty…

RED BLENDS 98 Marchesi Antinori 2015 Solaia (Toscana). For full review see page 81. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $325 95 Castello dei Rampolla 2014 Vigna d’Alceo (Toscana). Made with 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petit Verdot, this focused red offers earthy aromas of moist soil, new leather, cedar and black currant. It’s elegant and racy, delivering cassis, juicy black cherry, licorice, chopped mint and tobacco framed in fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. It’s already delicious but hold for even more complexity and to let the tannins unwind. Drink 2020–2029. Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $150 95 Marchesi Antinori 2015 Tignanello (Toscana). For full review see page 82. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $125 93 Le Macchiole 2015 Paleo (Toscana). Black currant, exotic spice, coconut and…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 92 David’s Land 2016 Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Aromas of cassis and violet set the stage for flavors of black currant, dark plum, mountainside herbs and orange zest. There is a nice tension on the palate between strong tannins and bold acidity that come to a head in a bright finish. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 91 Golan Heights Winery 2015 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). For full review see page 89. Kosher. abv: 14.5% Price: $33 91 Recanati 2016 Reserve David Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). For full review see page 90. Kosher. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 91 Tabor 2014 Limited Edition I/II,000 Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). For full review see page 90. Kosher. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 90 Binyamina 2016 Bin…

I slanted my Champagne coupe brimming with Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Brut, my first alcoholic drink after an emergency C-section. Pregnancy, with its tongue-tied commentary from bar professionals, was over. My healthy boy had arrived, and with him, the return of off-limit libations. Having visited a slew of bars and fine restaurants, I know that consuming wine and spirits while pregnant is the fault line of American dining-out culture. To wit, at an eccentric and celebrated Atlanta watering hole, I advised the millennial staffer my belly was holding a human. That means no alcohol, no spicy concoctions and zero citruses, because of severe acid reflux. It would have been an opportune time to highlight alcohol-free offerings, but he stood squarely and not blinking. In the end, I channeled the…

When you’re selecting a wine to drink with this decadently silky cured meat, the options can feel as complex as the ham itself. Fortunately, there are lots of delicious options to highlight it in different ways. Prosciutto is any Italian dry-cured ham. Prosciutto di Parma and Prosciutto di San Daniele are two giants of the category. These are salted and left to age for about a year, minimum, and sometimes more than three years, at which point they are sliced paper-thin and served uncooked. Other prosciutto-adjacent hams include French jambon de Bayonne and Spanish jamón Ibérico. While it’s often served wrapped around fruits or veggies, draped over pizzas or flatbreads, crisped for a soup or salad topper or sliced in thin ribbons to weave into pasta, good prosciutto is…

Floral or “garden” wines have been around for a long time. The first references come from ancient Romans who infused libations with rose petals and violets. China’s Han Dynasty introduced chrysanthemum wine to the world, and American colonists experimented with dandelion vino. Today, innovative producers are re-creating floral wines by fermenting the flowers themselves. Curious? Check these out. LAVENDER AND ROSE HIBISCUS WINES Free Range Flower Winery This Oakland, California winery has devised a unique method of fermenting flowers. Developed by co-founder and biologist Aaliyah Nitoto, the “florification” process utilizes organic lemons and lavender to create Free Range’s flagship L wine, a lavender wine with a soft purple hue. You might expect a deep herbal flavor, but what you get is lightly sweet and crisp, with nice acidity, a…

Palermo, the capital of Sicily, is renowned for its rich history, varied cuisine and distinct Arab-Norman architecture, with multiple churches and buildings classified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Thanks to its stunning palaces, beautiful squares, treasured museums and historic buildings, the city was named Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2018 by the country’s ministry for cultural heritage. As tourism has increased, so too has Palermo’s wining and dining scene, which boasts more options than ever. Restaurants and enoteche, or wine bars, concentrate on local ingredients and crafted lists that showcase Sicily’s vibrant, savory wines, many made with the island’s native grapes. Bye Bye Blues On the outskirts of Palermo, in Mondello, famous for its beautiful beach, this Michelin-starred restaurant is run by Chef Patrizia Di Benedetto and her sommelier husband,…

Amaro, Italy’s signature bitter liqueur, is prized for all the barks and herbs that famously aid digestion after a big meal. But the spirit offers much more than its bitter reputation. “Each amaro is made with so many different ingredients—spices, roots, peels, barks, flowers—they have a lot of complexity on their own,” says Joe Campanale, owner and beverage director of Fausto in Brooklyn, New York. “They’re almost like their own cocktail.” With recipes often honed over decades or centuries, it’s no wonder that amaro producers keep their formulations on tight lockdown. Most bottlings promote at least a couple of key flavorings that range from spices to flowers or fruits, while others can be detected through thoughtful tasting. This guide focuses on those ingredients and elements, many of which point to…

CHARDONNAY 95 Patz & Hall 2016 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). This is a seamless, Old World and classic white, integrated in salty oak with a beautiful opening nose of lemon rind. Lifted, persistent acidity gives it focus and freshness, as a taste of briny oyster shell, lemongrass and Asian spice mingle around well-integrated thoughtful oak. This is a beautiful wine. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 95 The Vineyard House 2016 Chardonnay (Oakville). This is a truly lovely and lush white wine, barrel-aged 10 months in new French oak and made in an elegant style. A creamy golden nose of nutmeg, vanilla and crème brûlée follows a voluptuous thread of hazelnut and anise, finishing gracefully with structure and textured acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 95 Thomas Fogarty 2016 Damiana…

WHITE WINES DOURO 93 Quinta Vale Dona Maria 2017 Vinha de Martim (Douro). This field blend has been oak fermented and aged, giving a wine that is rich while keeping a corner of freshness from the high-altitude vineyard at 1,300-feet. Named after the small village of Martim, the wine has layers of tangy flavors combined with toast and strong minerality. It’s a wine for aging, so don’t drink before 2021. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $90 92 Van Zellers 2017 CV Curriculum Vitae (Douro). A field blend of white grapes, the wine is smooth, rich and dense. It has a ripe character, enhanced by the creamy texture that comes from lees stirring and oak aging. The wine is impressive and will benefit from a few more months aging.…

NEGROAMARO 90 Tormaresca 2013 Masseria Maìme Negroamaro (Salento). For full review see page 94. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 88 Cantina Ariano 2015 Negroamaro (Puglia). This straighforward offering brings aromas of crushed strawberry and currant to the fore, with shades of fennel frond and tobacco leaf. It’s light and tangy on the palate yet persistent in its juicy red-fruit flavor, with slicks of granite and cocoa-nib dusted tannins bringing savory appeal. Verve Imports. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $NA 88 Schola Sarmenti 2016 Roccamora Negroamaro (Nardò). This is a juicy yet taut Negroamaro that’s sourced from 20-year-old alberello-trained vines. A nose of leather and clove moves to a sour cherry-laden palate, with tangy granite and well-mannered yet pervasive tannins. Massanois Imports. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 NERO DI TROIA 91 Rivera…

The menu header at Boston bar Fool’s Errand reads “Wine Plus (Stop ignoring us).” This self-described “adult snack bar,” which opened in August 2018, is heavy on the food-friendly fortified wines, as the “wine plus” header suggests. Offerings include plenty of vermouth; crisp Lillet Blanc, and an unusual rosé Pineau des Charentes (a fortified wine from France’s Cognac region), which turned out to be a perfect companion to small plates of pumpkin croquettes and fried Brussels sprouts. As of late, wine-based aperitif options have grown at a steady pace. Just a few years back, a menu section of this sort would have seemed unthinkable—yet as of late, wine-based aperitif options have grown at a steady pace. However, the categories can be a little confusing to sort through, so here’s a…