Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

We can’t get enough of this extroverted sipper. It burst onto the scene with heady-fruit and green-vegetable aromas and crisp acidity in the mid-1980s, and there’s one region in particular to thank: Marlborough. Tucked into the northeast corner of New Zealand’s South Island, Marlborough grows the lion’s share of the country’s Sauvignon Blanc across two subregions, Wairau Valley and Awatere Valley. Both are relatively dry and maritime influenced, but the cooler, more seaward Awatere produces slightly more herbaceous, saline Sauvignon than Wairau. Elsewhere in New Zealand, the style changes with the terroirs, but not drastically. Sauvignon Blanc is produced across the country, from Nelson to Canterbury and Wairarapa to Gisborne. Toward the bottom of the South Island, Central Otago’s semi-continental climate leads to wines with more gunflint and herbal tones…

By March, everyone seems anxious to get their hands on those first, fresh spring ingredients. But even as the vernal equinox arrives at the end of the month, “in reality, we’re mostly still cooking with hearty winter vegetables,” says Haidar Karoum, who crafts a menu around local, seasonal goods at Chloe, his year-old restaurant in Washington, D.C. This dish works because it uses the best of both. “Sweet potatoes do some heavy lifting, and we also look forward with spring chicken and fresh herbs,” he says. CHICKEN & TARRAGON STEW WITH SWEET POTATO DUMPLINGS Courtesy Haidar Karoum, chef/owner, Chloe, Washington, D.C.  4 tablespoons butter ¼ cup flour 2 carrots, medium diced 2 stalks celery, medium diced 1 large onion, medium diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into…

A succession of superb vintages from 2015 to 2017 has produced some of the best red wines in recent decades throughout the southern and northern Rhône. Winemakers and critics will be debating for years which vintage reigned supreme. Meanwhile, for consumers, it’s simply an unmissable opportunity to drink up. The 2015 vintage will be remembered for its power and structure. The Grenache-based wines of the south are intensely ripe and concentrated, while even in the north—where Syrah is known for its elegance and cutting acidity—the reds are uncharacteristically hedonistic. In both cases, cellaring before opening is recommended, as massive tannins make these wines exceptionally ageworthy and almost unapproachable when young. Winemakers and critics will be debating for years which vintage reigned supreme. The 2016 vintage was marked by ripeness…

CHARDONNAY 93 Ataraxia 2016 Chardonnay (Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge). This is a stunning wine, with superb complexity and great balance between the ripe fruit characteristics and the lightly toasty, sweet spice elements. Notes of yellow melon, sweet orange, honeysuckle and almond paste are rich and satisfying, but by no means fat or overdone. It’s medium in weight, with bright acidity and a pronounced minerality that lends focus and definition. The finish is fresh and vibrant, starting with crisp citrus flavors that evolve into a spiced orange-tea tone before landing on a succulent tone of cedar-grilled apple. Red Wolf Imports. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $39 93 Leeu Passant 2016 Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). Light scents of hazelnut, fresh honeycomb and ginger root sit atop the fruit core of Asian pear, pineapple core and green…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 97 Crown Point 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This winery is focused on setting a new benchmark for what Cabernet Sauvignon from Santa Barbara can be, and this bottling is its best yet. Beautifully layered aromas of black cherry, baking spice, star anise and crushed slate lead into a roasted palate of black plum and chai spices, with acid that carries into the finish. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $150 97 Patrimony 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Adelaida District). For full review see page 89. abv: 14.7% Price: $275 97 Spottswoode 2015 Family Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Fresh on the palate and floral on the nose in a bouquet of rose, lavender and crushed herb, this perennially beautiful, delicate wine benefits from the addition of…

March is Women’s History Month, and we’re celebrating by highlighting notable names from the wine industry’s past, present and future. With new articles dropping throughout the month that showcase formidable females behind the bar and bottle, it’s the perfect time to raise a glass to progress. Here’s a taste of what we have in store. Follow us @WineEnthusiast WOMEN IN WINE SCIENCE Learn about the women working in viticulture and enology who are helping to create the vineyards of the future at winemag.com/winescience THE WOMEN BEHIND YOUR FAVORITE WINE BARS From Portland, Oregon’s Bar Norman to Boston’s Haley.Henry, women are opening some of the country’s most exciting new wine bars. Visit winemag.com/barwomen to discover where to head for your next night out. THE FIRST LADIES OF WINE Madame Clicquot…

Forget ladies’ night. If you want to have a drink in support of women or to celebrate Women’s History Month with wine this March, start by drinking quality bottlings made by female winemakers. From wine tastings and paired dinners to monthly showcases and annual special menus, these venues put female-made selections front and center. A16 SAN FRANCISCO Each spring for the past 13 years, James Beard Award-winning sommelier and owner Shelley Lindgren has invited Italian female winemakers to gather and pour their wines for a fabulous evening. This year’s event is scheduled for March 8, which is also International Women’s Day, or Festa della Donna in Italy. Proceeds from the event go to La Cocina, which benefits low-income entrepreneurs that are primarily female. ALCOVE BOSTON A newcomer to the Lovejoy…

MEGURONI “Meguro is one of 23 districts of Tokyo, a place I used to live near,” says Urushido. He opts for a robust “cocktail umeshu” for this Negroni variation, made with an aged rum base and brown sugar. Its deeper flavor stands up to the malty genever and red bitter. Courtesy Masa Urushido, co-owner, Katana Kitten, New York City In mixing glass, stir together 1 ounce Old Duff Genever, ¾ ounce Choya Kokuto Umeshu, ¾ ounce Caffo Red Bitter and ice. Strain into rocks glass over large ice cube. Garnish with lemon peel. Perhaps you’ve enjoyed a glass of it at the end of a meal in a Japanese restaurant, but umeshu, a tangy-sweet pour better known in the U.S. as plum wine, is now finding a place in…

Envision a noble stone winery, one where cobwebs intertwine bottles that lie sleeping in a hand-dug cellar below. Outside, gnarled vines older than any living human penetrate deep into soils formed some 200 million years ago. You’re picturing somewhere in Europe, right? France, perhaps? Italy? Actually, this is Australia. Home to many of the planet’s oldest vines, this New World country boasts a rich history of wine production that stretches to the mid-1800s. Dozens of these lovingly preserved wineries still dot the landscape, vinous gems that can feel as though the winemaker went out for lunch 150 years ago and never returned. Take a step back in time to five of Australia’s most treasured historic wineries. BEST’S GREAT WESTERN Great Western/Grampians, Victoria Founded in 1866 Most famous wines: Bin…

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 95 Allegrini 2011 Fieramonte Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas evoking fruitcake, red-plum preserve, exotic spice and French oak take center stage. The full-bodied, generous palate also boasts finesse and focus, delivering cherry marinated in spirits, prune, crushed alpine herb, ground pepper and clove. Fine-grained, velvety tannins provide the backbone while fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors. Drink 2021–2031. LUX Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 16.5% Price: $250 94 Allegrini 2014 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. For full review see page 90. abv: 15.5% Price: $75 94 Masi 2012 Costasera Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Cocoa, baked plum, toast, culinary spice and leather aromas shape the nose. Full bodied and elegant, the smooth, dense palate doles out fleshy black cherry, blackberry jam, licorice and clove while…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 90 Glover Family 2017 Zephyr Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). This small, family-run producer makes a solid, salt-tinged Sauvignon Blanc from the estate vineyards close to the sea in the cooler Awatere Valley subregion of Marlborough. This wine is a relatively quiet mix of lemon zest, apple peel, sea spray and jalapeño, accompanied by prickly, mouthwatering acidity, a chalky texture and a citrusy finish. Massanois Imports. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 90 Yealands 2018 Estate Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Awatere Valley). For full review see page 102. abv: 13% Price: $25 88 Greyrock 2017 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). On the riper end of the spectrum, heady aromas of peach, pineapple, ripe grapefruit and a touch of honey and herb are at the fore. Light bodied with a slightly chalky…

CHARDONNAY 93 Evening Land 2016 Seven Springs Estate La Source Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). Pineapple jumps out, a wash of intense fruit flavor, supported by juicy, fresh acidity. The fruit piles on blood orange, Meyer lemon, grapefruit and more. All this lush ripeness is buoyed and balanced by the acidity, and the tangy flavors are never bitter or sour. The length and intensity are especially impressive, finishing with a nice lick of coconut. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $75 93 Evening Land 2016 Seven Springs Estate Summum Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). Summum is the reserve-level Chardonnay from this Chardonnay specialist. This is a chewy, textural wine, deeply fruited with nectarine, blood orange, Meyer lemon, candied lemon peel and grapefruit. The lush citrus flavors are supported with seams of butterscotch, toast and coconut.…

March is one of those transitional beverage months, when you’re likely done fully enjoying the big, bold beers of winter but are not quite ready to welcome the lighter, brighter selections of spring. What’s a beer lover to do? Brown ales are the perfect solution to your midseason woes. Traditionally an English style, brown ales were originally spawned from mild ales. The style’s rich, malty character, without overly robust or bitter notes, as well as its moderate alcohol and ample carbonation, provide the best of both worlds: flavorful, yet approachable and often sessionable beers. The style’s rich, malty character, without overly robust or bitter notes, as well as its moderate alcohol and ample carbonation, provide the best of both worlds. The hop profile of traditional European selections is typically…

Think of this as a cross between a Margarita and a Caipirinha, a classic cachaça-based drink, sassed up with a bit of honey and ginger. As for its name, Kaleb Craft, bar manager at The Grey in Savannah, Georgia, says it’s meant to channel road trips. “One thing we all had in common, no matter where we were raised, was somebody at some point trying to get us out the door and on the road,” he says. “I can almost imagine my dad hanging his head out of the car window after honking the horn twice or three times, ‘C’mon! Time to get goin’!’” *GINGER SYRUP This can be purchased (try The Ginger People Organic Ginger Syrup), or you can make The Grey’s version (right). TIME TO GET GOIN’ Courtesy…

Though Ireland is often associated with stout and whiskey, another beverage may speak better to the locality: gin. It’s the fastest-growing spirits category among Irish consumers, thanks to increased domestic production. From Lough Erne in the north to Kinsale on the southern coast, there are now 22 gin distilleries spread across the Emerald Isle, most of which use native botanicals to showcase its terroir. Here are three to try. DINGLE DISTILLERY The distillers here began making gin while their whiskey was maturing, but production soon became a separate, well-researched endeavor to create a flavor profile of the coastline. Located along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, the longest defined coastal drive in the world, Dingle adds provenance to its Original Gin by macerating in botanicals like rowan berry, fuchsia, bog myrtle,…

KREMSTAL GRÜNER VELTLINER 95 Malat 2017 Ried Höhlgraben Alte Reben Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Yeast, wet earth and supremely aromatic pear notes make for an intriguing nose. On the palate it is lifted, fruity, fresh and almost passion-fruit-like juiciness that make this irresistible. The body is concentrated and fluid and for now showcases its brilliant, refreshing and exciting fruit, but underneath is a core of salty richness that makes this so very moreish. Fluid, salty, zesty, slender but rounded. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $50 95 Nigl 2017 Herzstück vom Kirchenberg Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Lemon balm and nettle notes gently insinuate their savoriness into a fruity mix of ripe lemon and pear. This game of savory, almost salty fruitiness continues on the fluid body, which is tense and wonderfully…

RED BLENDS 93 Bodega Catena Zapata 2014 Nicolás Catena Zapata (Mendoza). Smooth aromas of berry fruits, fig, tobacco and chocolate signal a well-oaked blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Malbec. This signature wine for Catena is powerful and lusty on the palate, with flavors of toasty oak, fig, blackberry and spice all rolled into a fine whole. Long and toasty on the finish, this should be at its peak in a couple of years. Drink through 2026. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $125 93 Luigi Bosca 2015 Gala 4 Cabernet Franc-Malbec (Mendoza). Cherry-cough-drop, cassis and licorice aromas are bright and right, while the nose of this 90% Cab Franc (with 10% Malbec) isn’t over the top. A full palate, like the nose, doesn’t bulldoze,…

Until very recently, Irish whiskey was the most traditional of the whiskey categories. It wasn’t known for flashy celebrity promos, and special cask finishes were only rarely seen. Irish whiskey was gentle and staid, known for its approachable flavor profile and affordable pricing. However, times have changed. Although it still speaks of the pastoral countryside, with layers of fresh orchard fruit, grass and floral notes, the new Irish whiskey has attitude and edge. The new Irish whiskey has attitude and edge. Following in the footsteps of Scotch and American whiskey, a growing number of new bottlings have been finished in barrels that previously held other liquids, feeding a consumer market hungry for new flavors. Fortified wines like Port (Ballyhoo) and oloroso Sherry (Powers Three Swallow, The Sexton); beer (Glendalough’s…