Innholdsfortegnelse for Best of 2018 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

DRINK AHEAD GOAL RUSH Stopping bad habits and losing a few pounds are top of mind at the top of the year. But it’s a lot more fun to focus on expanding your wine repertoire. Here, industry professionals share their resolutions. Tell us about yours with the hashtags #wineresolution and #WETaste. ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER DONNELLY New Year’s wine resolutions from the pros will inspire you. “Magnums or bust!” —Matt Tunstall, co-owner/beverage director, Stems & Skins, Charleston, SC “Drink more natural wines and to learn more about veganic farming. I’ve been feeling drawn to returning back to basics, before mass-produced, commercial winemaking took over, and [to] being more in tune with—and connecting closer with—nature.” —Sunny Gandara, wine and PR director/chef sommelier, Vegan Wines, New York City “The obvious resolution for…

Beyond its place in cocktails, breath fresheners and chocolate, mint is used in savory dishes all around the globe. It belongs to the Lamiaceae family, which encompasses most common culinary herbs—basil, common sage, rosemary, oregano, marjoram, thyme—and can serve as a substitute for any of them. Add sweet spearmint, spicy peppermint or another variety to meatballs, grilled chicken, salads, soups and sauces like vinaigrettes, chutneys, raita and tomato sauces. Got lots? Throw handfuls in pesto, tabouli, Greek salad, pea soup or pasta with lemon and garlic. PAIR IT “Mint is such an aromatic and recognizable herb that you need a wine that’s strong and distinctive so it doesn’t get drowned out,” says Douglas Kim, sommelier at Picasso restaurant at Bellagio Resort & Casino in Las Vegas. “Since citrus and…

Eighteen years ago, the editors of Wine Enthusiast conceived an annual awards program to celebrate individuals and companies that have contributed significantly to the success of the wine industry. As the scope of wine culture and business has evolved, so too have our awards. Today, we honor industry game-changers from all facets and in all categories of the beverage world, from winemakers to CEOs, mixologists and sommeliers to marketing directors and social visionaries. All of the winners represent our current beverage culture, and they’re linked by their fearless passion for change, business acumen and savvy for anticipating what’s next in the world of wine and beyond. These winners are the drivers for what’s in your glass every day. We invite you to turn the page and get to know the…

Canonizing or castigating an entire vintage feels like a fool’s errand in California. The weather is much more cooperative than the Old World, and the landscape is peppered with microclimates, making exceptions to the rule. And yet, here I am ready to declare 2016 as a banner year for Central Coast Pinot Noir. Following the drought-addled and minimal harvest of 2015, the 2016 vintage welcomed the return of rains to the Golden State, flushing the soils a bit and breathing new life into the wines. The growing season started early due to warm spring weather but mellowed out later into summer, allowing for proper maturation. The 2016 vintage welcomed the return of rains to the Golden State, flushing the soils a bit and breathing new life into wines. Whatever…

VIOGNIER 90 Jefferson Vineyards 2017 Skin Contact Viognier (Monticello). This copper-colored wine, the result of eight days of skin-contact, opens with compelling aromas of wildflower, apricot and tilled red-earth. The earthy palate delivers orange zest, terracotta and rooibos tea. A tannic accent and zesty acidity lead into a long and layered finish. —C.D. abv: 13.1% Price: $35 88 Veritas 2016 Viognier (Monticello). A broad lychee aroma meets with a touch of ginger powder on the nose. Apricot and orange peel show on the full-bodied palate. It shows a pleasant roundness and weight, with a long, layered finish. —C.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 86 Jefferson Vineyards 2017 Viognier (Virginia). This Viognier is nutty on the nose. A hints of an underripe papaya aroma is followed by a tangy impression on…

RÍAS BAIXAS 91 Adegas Gran Vinum 2017 Esencia Diviña Albariño (Rías Baixas). Orange and blanched almond aromas are light and lucid on the nose. This is citrusy and ripe on the palate but not heavy. Citrus and melon flavors are a touch leesy, while this is steady and well-balanced fresh, rounded finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $24 90 Bodegas Muriel 2017 Pazo Cilleiro Albariño (Rías Baixas). For full review see page 192. abv: 13% Price: $20 90 Val do Sosego 2017 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Racy orange peel and melon aromas set the stage for a well-formed palate with good acidity, freshness and balance. Lightly briny white fruit flavors are textbook for Albariño, while a note of green herbs rises up on a popping finish. The track…

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 93 SalvaTerra 2009 Cave di Prun Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Enticing aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, new leather, mocha and a hint of pressed violet emerge from the glass. The structured, savory palate offers black cherry jam, espresso, star anise and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2025. Salvaterra USA. —K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $75 93 SalvaTerra 2008 Cave di Prun Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). For full review see page 185. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.5% Price: $75 92 Buglioni 2010 Teste Dure Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Inviting aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, new leather, cocoa and forest floor emerge from the glass. The concentrated palate doles out black currant jam, licorice, black pepper and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2027. Wilson Daniels…

RED WINES 89 Telescope 2016 Mavrud (Thracian Valley). Dark cherry red in the glass, this Bulgarian Mavrud has aromas of black plum, raspberry, cloves and cinnamon. In the mouth, there are soft tannins with flavors of cedar, tart cherry and black plum. Park Street Imports. —J.J. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 89 Telescope 2014 Red (Thracian Valley). This Bulgarian red blend is garnet colored, with aromas of smoked meats, red plums, saddle leather and cedar. In the mouth, there are flavors of black raspberry and red plums with a touch of brown baking spices in the finish. Park Street Imports. —J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 88 Rigid Elm 2016 Mavrud (Thracian Valley). This Mavrud is cherry red in the glass with aromas of eucalyptus, red fruits, cotton candy and cinnamon.…

In the U.S., the perception of saké has shifted from something ordered solely alongside traditional Japanese meals to a beverage that can adapt to many cuisines. The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) has started offering saké certification, and the beverage now enjoys the sommelier treatment in some restaurants. Saké producers seek to not only cultivate appreciation for the drink in fine dining, but to also forge a place for it in everyday culinary experiences. Its classifications are fairly straightforward, generally determined by how much of the rice grain’s outer bran is polished away as well as factors like added alcohol and filtration practices. Get to know four common saké styles, each of which pairs well with a classic takeout dish. JUNMAI GINJO & PIZZA Saké is high in…

There’s no debating it: Sparkles are mandatory for your New Year’s Eve celebrations. But not all that shimmers has to come in a wine bottle. As beloved and delicious as Champagne and other sparkling wines can be, swap out this year’s standard bubbles for something a bit unconventional. Bière de Champagne Exchange Champagne for Belgian bière de Champagne, also known as bière brut. These beers generally undergo extensive aging, as well as remuage and the dégorgement process of yeast removal, just like Champagne. Try Brouwerij Bosteels’ DeuS Brut des Flandres, or Victory Brewing Company’s Jubilee, produced in Downingtown, Pennsylvania. Cider Created in a range of styles worldwide, cider chimes with the cooler seasons here in the states. Gurutzeta Sagardo Naturala Sidra from Spain, Wölffer No. 139 Dry White and…

This may be the most virtuous version of a flip we’ve ever seen. The traditional flip template, more than 300 years old, combines a spirit, fortified wine or beer with sweetener and a whole egg. Some modern-day flips have come to include cream as well. However, after a festive season full of thick nogs and buttered rums, a lighter version is welcome. Leave it to the wellness epicenter of Los Angeles to supply just the elixir. Created by Co-owner Devon Tarby for sleek speakeasy The Normandie Club, this cocktail doesn’t contain dairy or eggs. The creamy texture comes instead from steamed almond milk, with rich Demerara syrup for added body, and the finished drink is served soothingly warm. ALMOND ORCHARD Adapted from Devon Tarby, co-owner, The Normandie Club, Los…

Only a winemaker with a deep independent streak and an intentional avoidance of marketplace realities would devote their career to Zinfandel. The vines are difficult to manage, the wine is challenging to make and sales are perennially lukewarm, except among a small, dedicated following of Zin lovers. Yet, such winemakers do exist, and the world is better because of them. The best Zin masters turn the fruit of gnarled old vines into bold, nuanced and expressive wines. Zinfandel is known as California’s heritage variety. While it appears to have originated in what’s now Croatia, the grape came to the state in the mid 1840s. Production began to surge after the 1849 Gold Rush, well before the now-common French varieties were popular. It grew well in the Mediterranean climate and made…

Ever since a certain hobbit was captured on the big screen, tourism in New Zealand has been steadily on the rise. So, too, has the world’s consumption of its wines, where 98% of the vineyards are certified sustainable. It makes sense, then, to discover that the country’s eno- and eco-tourism offerings are also numerous. Many of New Zealand’s most extolled wineries are farmed not just sustainably, but organically and/or biodynamically as well. And many other local businesses and purveyors take an equally holistic, eco-conscious approach. Just don’t expect them to shout about it. Like the Kiwis themselves, winery visits are often humble, usually entailing a stroll through the vineyards with the winemaker themselves. Because of this, New Zealand still offers visitors an authenticity that’s rare and refreshing in modern…

RIESLING 91 Pacific Rim 2016 Solstice Vineyard Riesling (Yakima Valley). The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of lime leaf, herb, pear and flower. Dry, well-balanced fruit flavors follow, backed by lively acidity. Beautiful stuff. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 89 Pacific Rim 2017 J Riesling (Columbia Valley). After showing a touch of reduction out of the gate, the aromas open to show notes of orange rind and citrus. It drinks off dry, with an appealing balance of stone fruit and citrus flavors that persist on the long finish. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10 89 Pacific Rim 2017 Sweet Riesling (Columbia Valley). The aromas are vibrant, with notes of tangerine peel, lime zest, jasmine and flower. It drinks medium sweet, with plentiful stone fruit and…

CARMENÈRE 92 Montes 2015 Purple Angel Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Sappy, rooty aromas of baked black fruit, spice cake and chocolate announce a supremely ripe Carmenère (with 8% Petit Verdot) that’s as lush, chewy and dense on the palate as possible without being overdone. Massive blackberry, cassis, chocolate and baking spice flavors finish toasty and rich. While this turns over no new stones, it’s decidedly appealing. Drink through 2021. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $90 88 Casa Silva 2017 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Earthy, spicy berry aromas include varietal specific minty green notes. A chewy palate has energy and power, while this tastes of mint, berry fruit, savory spice and green herb. If the classic herbal character of Carmenère doesn’t bother you, this is a good one. Vine Connections.…

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 93 Domaine Faiveley 2016 Les Cazetiers Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). This rich, smoky wine has layers of wood to contrast with rich black-plum flavors. It comes from one of the line of premier cru vineyards on the steep slope right behind the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, Structured and firm now, with the classic weight of the appellation, the wine will take its time. Drink from 2023. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $156 93 J. Coudray Bizot 2012 Les Cazetiers Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). This mature wine comes from one of the finest premier cru vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin. While light in color, it has richness along with red-berry acidity. The tannins have softened to broaden this ripe wine that is ready to drink. Bonhomie Wine Imports.…

LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA 94 Paltrinieri 2017 L’Eclisse (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Made by the firm that helped put quality Lambrusco on the map, this delicious, stunning wine opens with enticing scents of wild berry, rose petal and citrus. The aromas carry over to the elegant, foaming palate along with juicy strawberry, creamy nectarine, grapefruit and a sprinkling of white pepper. A silky mousse gives it an irresistible texture, while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Lyra Wine. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 11.5% Price: $25 93 Paltrinieri 2017 Radice (Lambrusco di Sorbara). One of the wines that put Lambrusco back on the map, this vibrant, linear wine boasts aromas of wild strawberry, violet, red cherry and grapefruit. The aromas carry through to the slightly sparkling, savory palate along with cinnamon and white…

Although Cognac gets all the headlines, its rustic cousin, Armagnac, deserves attention, too. Both are French brandies, made with many of the same grape varieties. But Gascony’s Armagnac offers robust richness that’s not often seen in the lighter Cognac style. Think gorgeous butterscotch, dried apricot and salted caramel; or in older bottlings, flavors of roasted nuts, leather and plum skin. “Armagnac is a more agricultural spirit than Cognac,” writes artisanal spirits champion Thad Vogler in his book By the Smoke and the Smell. Despite the region’s long history, he notes, many producers are “at a crossroads, torn between the traditions of agricultural spirits and a desire for greater commercial success.” Gascony’s Armagnac offers robust richness that’s not often seen in the ligher Cognac style. Domaine d’Esperance is an excellent…

Behind a thick, unsigned wooden door in Elorrio, Spain, a pretty town southeast of Bilbao in the Basque region, is a restaurant-grade kitchen and a sprawling dining room with old-timey, solid pine furniture. In the past, the sturdy seats have hosted generations of men but, increasingly today, women, too. I’m one of those women, and I’m in a txoko—a members-only restaurant of a local gastronomic society. These clubs are where groups of friends who, in many cases, have known each other since childhood, gather regularly to cook, chat, eat and imbibe. Before the meal, I wander around and spot a table of four elderly men sitting outside with a platter of bread and grilled blood sausage. One man lifts a porron, a decanter-style vessel, and drinks red wine straight…

If there’s one recipe that evokes the Christmas spirit, it’s Vanillekipferl. A traditional cookie baked across Austria and southern Germany, these crunchy, melting little crescents offer flavors of vanilla and hazelnut. They take barely half an hour to make and fill the house with the warm scent of festivities to come. VANILLEKIPFERL Adapted from Gebäck für Festliche Stunden (Vehling Verlag, 1991) by Julia Schulenburg 9 ounces flour (about 2 cups)3 ounces sifted confectioners’ sugar, plus more, to coat6 ounces unsalted butter, softened1 egg1 teaspoon vanilla extractPinch of salt3 ounces toasted, ground hazelnuts Heat oven to 350˚F. Add ingredients to large bowl, and knead to combine. If dough becomes too sticky, chill in refrigerator. Remove dough from bowl. Roll walnut-sized pieces into balls. Working one at a time, use hands…

It’s easy to default to tried-and-true Champagne when shopping for bubbly, but what if you’re looking for something new? Something different? Something a little unexpected? Champagne is still revered, and for good reason. But superb sparkling wine is now made the world over, using a range of grape varieties and production techniques to create a splendorous array of styles. From Old World to New, traditional wine regions to burgeoning ones, we dove into the bubbly bin to create a must-have cheat sheet for all your sparkling wine needs. We’ve also included a perfect pour at every price point, ensuring you a seriously successful and immensely satisfying holiday season. Cheers! United States Domestic Sparklers Come of Age California has had a long love affair with sparkling wine production. Korbel Champagne Cellars,…

Breakfast is not just the most important meal of the day, it’s often the most delicious. But it isn’t usually served at the best time for a glass of wine, even though so many favorite morning foods pair nicely with it. Our solution? Breakfast for dinner. With all the burgers and steaks seen at brunch, there’s no reason not to eat pancakes, grits and eggs later in the day. And the familiar flavors take on new dimensions when paired with wine. If you do want to crack a bottle at the crack of dawn, we won’t judge. Great wine and food know no schedule. For the full breakfast-for-dinner effect, make dessert fruit bowls topped with Greek yogurt and granola. 83 East Bay Street Shrimp & Grits Adapted from The Lee…

ALBARIÑO 87 McPherson 2016 Castaño Prado Vineyards Albariño (Texas). The citrusy nose shows fresh quince, apricot, orange peels and bitter lemon. The fruit flavors are ripe on the palate due to soft acidity, offering bitter citrus, peach and orange. There is a touch of white pepper on the midpalate, ending with notes of clementine and lime pith. —F.A. abv: 13.2% Price: $18 86 Pedernales 2015 Albariño (Texas). This white offers aromas of white flowers, orange peels, apricots and peaches that mingle with notes of grass and white pepper. The palate has a creamy mouthfeel, rounding out flavors of lemonade, white peach juice, lemon balm and gooseberry. The orange oil finish has a faint bitter lime edge. —F.A. abv: 13.1% Price: $30 SAUVIGNON BLANC 87 Llano Estacado 2017 Monte Stella…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 91 Fern Ridge 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). This wine gushes in tones of lime popsicle and guava flecked with honey. The juicy fruit continues on the palate, where tangy, bouncy acidity sits easily alongside a creamy texture. There’s a long peach and lime finish. Saranty Imports. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 91 Framingham 2017 Nobody’s Hero Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Guava, pineapple rind, red apple skins and green herbs lead the nose. The grapefruit-tinged palate is threaded together with prickly, mouthwatering acidity, chalky wet-stone minerality and a long, juicy and spicy finish. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 91 Giesen 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). For full review see page 196. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 91 Kim Crawford 2017 Signature Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough).…

GIGONDAS 96 Domaine Saint Damien 2016 Les Souteyrades (Gigondas). Even among a lineup of fantastic peers in a fantastic vintage, this bottling of Les Souteyrades is a stunner. It’s intensely rich, bursting with mulberry and cherry flavors, yet not brawny or dense. Finessed and fine in texture, it’s marked by soft, chalky tannins and bright, sunny acidity. The finish is long, offering lingering hints of crushed earth and garrigue. A treat to savor now–2030. Weygandt-Metzler. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $37 95 Domaine Saint Damien 2016 La Louisiane (Gigondas). Located on the terraced hillsides of Gigondas, the vineyard site La Louisiane boasts Grenache vines that are nearly 80 years old. This is a powerful, intoxicating wine meshing rich black cherry and berry flavors against a sheen of crushed-stone…

ETNA ROSSO 95 Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2016 Guardiola (Etna). Aromas of red berry unite with whiffs of Mediterranean scrub, blue flower and exotic spice. Reflecting the nose, the elegantly structured, focused palate delivers juicy red cherry, strawberry, star anise and baking spice accompanied by firm, polished tannins. Bright acidity lends balance. Drink 2022–2031. de Grazia Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40 95 Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2016 San Lorenzo (Etna). Aromatic herb, rose, wild berry and dark spice aromas take shape in the glass. It’s savory, elegant and juicy, doling out sour cherry, crushed strawberry, star anise and orange zest alongside a tangy saline note. Fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and support. Drink 2022–2031. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50…

Once cooler temperatures set in, there’s no beer style as appealing as a dark, roasty stout. Sure, they’re delicious year-round, but there’s little to compare with the satisfaction that a good, strong stout offers on a chilly day: filling your palate with robust and decadent flavors and sending that tingling warming sensation down to your core, soothing the soul and heating the body from the inside. There are so many different styles of stouts available that there is almost certainly a bottling for any palate. Though they’re all flavorful, each varies in intensity, weight, alcohol and overall drinkability. Bold profiles of intense flavor and high alcohol suggest longevity; they can evolve into even more complex and layered selections. Many consider Russian imperial stouts to be king, with their high…