Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2018 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

It’s the time of year when you’re faced with that inevitable question, what do I buy for the person who has everything? If they’re a wine lover, we’ve just solved your problem. Each year, from our database of over 23,000 wines tasted annually, we cull the world’s most lauded and ageable wines into our Top 100 Cellar Selections list (page 48), to present top, hang-on-to-that-bottle-worthy wines from nearly every wine region in the world. This year, 11 (!) of those are 100-point wines. This intersection of breadth and quality means that any of these wines is a no-brainer gift for the oenophile in your life—including yourself. But nabbing these selections doesn’t mean emptying your wallet. In our mission to bring you the best bottles in a more accessible way,…

1. Wine Books Set; juniperbooks.com; $525 2. Riedel Sommeliers Cabernet/Merlot/Bordeaux Wine Glass; wineenthusiast.com; $115.95 for one UNDER $50 Spend a little, thrill a lot with these wallet- and wine-friendly products. $50–$100 Moderately priced presents to please any palate. $100–$200 Opulent items wine lovers will adore.…

Fragrant, foaming, fresh and delicious, Moscato d’Asti is one of Italy’s most celebrated sweet wines. This silky, low-alcohol sparkler is made entirely from white Muscat grapes, and its typical sensations include orange blossom, apricot, thyme and lemon. It’s generally consumed upon release, but its bright acidity means it can have serious aging potential when stored in the right conditions. There aren’t many examples of aged Moscato d’Asti on the market, but a unique tasting of Saracco gives an idea of what this wine might have in store. Get ahead of the curve and tuck away a bottle during this year’s holiday celebrations. WHAT TO EXPECT Moscato producer Saracco sent Italian Editor Kerin O'Keefe an exclusive lineup of vintages back to 2005. Here’s how they evolved. 2016 Juicy with a…

Will Lee, partner and beverage director at Grey Ghost Detroit, designed this cocktail for cold days. Its name, A Farewell to Arms, comes not so much from Hemingway, as the summertime expression, “sun’s out, guns out.” “It’s time to put the ‘guns’ away, hence the name,” he says. The drink starts with equal measures whiskey and apple brandy, though in a pinch, you can double up on either. Smaller measures of Bénédictine liqueur and raisiny Pedro Ximénez Sherry pile on layers of honey, clove, dried fruit and spice. “The spirit-driven nature of the cocktail is meant to warm your body,” says Lee, just what’s needed until the sun shines again. A FAREWELL TO ARMS Courtesy Will Lee, partner and beverage director, Grey Ghost Detroit 1 ounce Bourbon1 ounce Laird’s…

Truffle oils and salts are ubiquitous, but there’s nothing quite as delicate and luxurious as the real thing, fresh from the ground. To get the most of a truffle’s nuance, shave it over a simple dish, and be sure to pair it all with a good pour. Read on for guidance from the pros. GETTING CHEESY WITH TRUFFLES Black and white truffles grow in Oregon. At Ox Restaurant in Portland, Chef/Owners Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton use both. “Oregon black truffles have an almost fruity aroma, a moistened, tender texture and taste slightly malty,” he says. “I would serve them with a warmed, fresh cheese, such as baked ricotta, smeared over grilled toast.” When it comes to pairing such a dish, he suggests a light-bodied red like a…

The 2016 vintage was a special one in the Douro Valley. It was the first time since 2011 that the quality of the top parcels were deemed good enough to declare the vintage for the Port wines. A general or full declaration means the majority of houses and quintas, both large and small, agree that the fruit from the given vintage has the potential to produce high-quality Port wines. The decision is often led by the two biggest producers, Symington Family Estates and The Fladgate Partnership, who have to agree between themselves. There is no question the right call was made in 2016. Following on from 2011, which many considered the greatest Vintage Port in the past few decades, the 2016 Vintage has an equal claim to greatness. The…

ETNA 95 Biondi 2016 Outis (Etna). This fragrant, exquisite red has captivating scents of wild red berry, rose petal, white pepper and menthol and a smoky mineral note. The linear, racy palate is all about finesse, delivering strawberry, red raspberry, star anise, crushed mint and graphite. It’s ethereally elegant and well balanced, with vibrant acidity and polished tannins. It’s not for everyone, but lovers of finesse will be in ecstasy. Drink through 2028. Oliver McCrum Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $25 94 Biondi 2016 Rosso Cisterna Fuori (Etna). Ethereally elegant and tantalizing fragrant, this understated beauty opens with mesmerizing scents of strawberry, rose petal and flint. The classy, subtle palate shows remarkable pedigree, offering crunchy red cherry, mint, star anise and minerality framed in racy acidity and…

SPARKLING WINES 90 Krone 2017 Twee Jonge Gezellen Vintage Rosé Cuvée Brut Méthode Cap Classique (Western Cape). Made from 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay, this brilliant brut rosé offers bright and snappy aromas of red currant, strawberry hull and fresh-cut apple. The palate offers more of the same, the tart flavors and mouthfilling mousse cut by citrusy acidity and nervy tension. Drink now–2022. Indigo Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 11% Price: $20 90 Simonsig 2017 Kaapse Vonkel Méthode Cap Classique Brut Rosé (Western Cape). For full review see page 147. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12% Price: $20 90 Simonsig 2016 Kaapse Vonkel Méthode Cap Classique Brut Rosé (Western Cape). Made from 64% Pinot Noir, 34% Pinotage and 2% Pinot Meunier, this opens with medium-intense aromas of strawberry hull,…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 93 Animo 2016 Heritage Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This is an exotic, 100% varietal wine given impressive time to mature before release. It’s worth the wait. Flinty, it offers plenty of body around a wealth of well-developed pineapple, grapefruit and lemon-squeeze flavors, finishing in balance and with lingering complexity. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $65 93 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2017 Piocho Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Very light in the glass, this bottling, which includes 12% Sémillion, starts with fresh and snappy aromas of wet grass, ripe passion fruit and cold rain—a stunning aromatic combo. The palate is extremely zippy, with powerful acid slicing through flavors of lemongrass, lime and wet stone. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 91 Black Stallion 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 90 Sparkman 2015 Rainmaker Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). A blend of fruit from Olsen and Kiona vineyards. Brooding dried herb, black cherry and spice aromas are followed by a supple, flavorful palate, bursting with cherry, cedar and plum notes that extend on the finish. This one is all about subtlety and sophistication, and it brings both in abundance. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $62 89 Love That Red 2015 Seattle Slew Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Char, toast and dark chocolate barrel aromas are out front, with herb and cherry lurking underneath. Full-bodied fruit and barrel flavors. The wood influence is heavy, but there’s enough fruit to largely stand up to it. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $32 88 :Nota Bene 2015 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Red…

While single-malt Scotch gets all the headlines, blends have become the category’s best storytellers. A single-malt Scotch is made with whisky from one distillery. By comparison, blended Scotch combines malt whisky (made from barley) with grain whisky, which can mean a lighter, smoother sip. And blended malt whiskies (or vatted malts), are made entierly from barley and combine whiskies from two or more distilleries, usually making for complex, robust bottlings. Blended doesn’t mean boring, and Compass Box Delilah’s XXV Blended Scotch hammers that home. Tied to the 25th anniversary of celebrated Chicago whiskey bar Delilah’s, this Scotch is a collaboration between Mike Miller, owner of the gritty spot known for its jukebox—and whiskey collection—and Compass Box founder John Glaser. The bottling sees five years in a former Sherry cask,…

We meet monthly at members’ homes, each with a bagged bottle that fits a pre-determined theme. When my husband and I, along with our baby and pup, moved from Australia to the small city of Kingston in New York’s Hudson Valley, we knew no one. We faced the usual challenges as we hunted for friends, jobs and childcare, but we gradually adjusted. Still, a void remained. I was missing a wine community. After all, wine is a social endeavor. However remarkable the liquid in your glass, wine becomes infinitely more enjoyable when shared with those who not only appreciate its beauty, but recognize its cultural and historic significance and sense of place. In short, wine geeks need other wine geeks. At that point, I’d spent nearly a decade self-employed…

So happy to see that Cabernet and steak are still madly in love even after all these years. Hold the oak! More winemakers in Argentina and Chile are phasing out new oak and aging wines in concrete tanks, plastic bins and other neutral vessels. Tips on how to build a cheese board like a pro, from a basic crowd-pleaser to a collection of stinky, complex curds. Have you met frosé’s cousin, the frozen G&T? This gin slushy is exactly what we need to close out a work week. It was a fun night at the #emmys! We got a behind the scenes look from Executive Editor @suskostrzewa. Crisp, simple and affordable whites to stock up on this fall. #vinhoverde A simple way to…

This festive pork roast is really just a rack of rib chops tied in a circle, and any good butcher should be able to ready the meat for you. A showstopper on its own, this roast can be stuffed for an even more dramatic presentation. Just take care to prepare your desired filling separately to ensure everything is evenly cooked. Rice pilaf, roasted root vegetables or even baked apples are all a nice match, and each could easily be made while the roast rests. CROWN ROAST OF PORK 1 8–10 pound crown roast of pork, top 2 inches of bone frenched, if desired Kosher salt and fresh-ground pepper, for seasoning One day before cooking, rub roast generously with salt and pepper. Place meat on rack in roasting pan or…

With all due respect to the rest of the fruit kingdom, it’s hard to deny the supremacy of a ripe mango. Its juicy flesh and concentrated sweetness can transport you to the tropics, while its subtly resinous, piney flavor and undertones of vanilla and spice provide endless complexity. Mangoes are a common ingredient in warm-climate cuisine, and they’re as versatile in savory applications as sweet. Try using ripe mango in recipes that call for melon, peaches, nectarines, pineapple, banana or even tomato. A mango caprese salad is a revelation. Unripe, or “green,” mangoes taste like a cross between green apple and jicama, and are used commonly in salads, pickles and chutneys. PAIR IT “In South Florida, mangoes are a part of our weekly food source,” says Virginia Philip, MS,…

After a career as a computer engineer and later as a TV actor, Jerry Bell Jr., of Beaverton, Oregon, found his niche as the director of documentary films that trace the rise of winemakers of color. His film, Red, White & Black: An Oregon Wine Story, about Oregon’s wine industry, debuted earlier this year. Next up is Journey Between the Vines: The Black Winemakers’ Story, which takes a national focus. How did you become interested in wine as a documentary film subject? I didn’t know anything about wine. For me, wine had to be sweet. But I bumped into an acquaintance, Bertony Faustin, at a wine festival and learned he was making wine at his own place, Abbey Creek Vineyard in North Plains, Oregon. He was telling me all…

There will come a time when you’ll feel the need to leave the comfort of your dining table and explore the wines you revere at their points of origin. It’s not exactly a hard sell. Iconic regions, after all, deliver magnificent scenery, exciting food, upscale lodging and the chance to acquire rare treasures in perfect provenance straight from cellars. For the trip, or trips, of a lifetime, this guide divulges the hotels, restaurants and producers you should experience to savor four of the world’s most collector-worthy wines: Brunello di Montalcino from Italy; Riesling from the Mosel Valley; Port from the Douro Valley; and Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Burgundy. MONTALCINO, ITALY Like other fabled Italian wine regions, Montalcino is a tale of old and new. For context, study Italian Editor…

TORO 95 Teso La Monja 2015 Alabaster (Toro). For full review see page 132. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $220 94 Teso La Monja 2015 Victorino (Toro). For full review see page 134. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 93 Matsu 2015 El Viejo (Toro). For full review see page 136. abv: 15% Price: $60 92 Teso La Monja 2015 Almirez (Toro). A graphite note and the essence of fine oak sit nicely atop a nose defined by blackberry, prune and raisin aromas. A tight palate qualifies as direct, while this Toro cruiserweight tastes of toasty oaky black fruits and pepper. A spicy dry finish doesn’t waver, and this Tinta de Toro will age well; drink through 2027. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 91 Bodega…

RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS 95 Prinz Salm 2016 Binger Kirchberg Riesling GG Grosse Lage Trocken (Rheinhessen). Zestier and juicier in fruit than Prinz Salm’s other grand cru Rieslings, this vintage, light-footed but powerful wine offers loads of fresh grapefruit and peach flavors. It’s a deeply mineral sip, too, with laser-like acidity and a refreshingly tonic finish. Drinks beautifully already but should improve well through 2030. Valckenberg International, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $85 94 Prinz Salm 2016 Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Grosse Lage GG Trocken (Rheinhessen). This is an intensely ripe, penetrating wine full of concentrated yellow peach and even red berry notes. At the same time, it’s deeply earthy with stony mineral undertones and striking acidity. Dry and full bodied in style, it finishes on a delicate fringe…

WHITE BLENDS 92 Ben Haines 2016 B Minor Roussanne-Marsanne (Upper Goulburn). Made in small quantities from winemaker Ben Haines, this blend is fermented with native yeasts and aged for 10 months on the lees. The aromas are heady in tones of lemon curd, honey, toasted nuts and spice. But it’s the palate that steals show. Tingly acidity perfectly balances an oily texture and lingering, spicy flavors. Lovers of textural whites will be all over this. Little Peacock Imports. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $25 91 Leeuwin Estate 2016 Siblings Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River). For full review see page 141. abv: 13% Price: $20 91 Point Ormond 2015 Marsanne-Roussanne (Upper Goulburn). This wine offers heady aromas of marzipan, bruised apple, white pepper and a hint of caramel. More mineral…

PINOT GRIS 92 King Estate 2017 Domaine Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 138. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.7% Price: $29 91 Alexana 2017 Terroir Series Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This is part of the winery’s Terroir Series, but oddly, no specific terroir other than the generic Willamette Valley AVA is indicated. The flavors are leesy and balanced among fruit highlights of citrus, lime and papaya, with a strong minerality. Precise and stylish, it’s already drinking quite well and should hold through 2023. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $32 88 Lujon 2017 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Though not as ripe as past vintages, this brings appealing flavors of cinnamon-dusted apple pie and poached pear. Sourced from a single northern Tualatin Valley vineyard, its physical maturity exceeds its low…

RIESLING 90 Bellwether 2016 A&D Vineyard Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). This is the last vintage ever from this vineyard on Keuka Lake, which has since been leveled and sold to a real estate developer. Initially restrained on the nose, after a few swirls in the glass this opens up to notes of pollen-dusted chamomile, melon rind and wet slate. A delicately framed palate boasts flavors of tangy white cherry and crunchy green pear, with a slick, silky feel and a lingering limestone finish. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $20 89 Wagner 2016 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). An intensely stony nose of wet slate and lime zest carries to the equally expressive palate. This is light in feel but electric with acidity, ending dry on tones of citrus zest and chalk.…

There’s no denying the influence that Old World beers have had on brewing. From superb traditional offerings to domestic interpretations with unique twists, there’s something available for everyone today. But some countries simply shine in their rich beer heritages and reputations for outstanding quality. A perfect example is Belgium. The country’s brewing history dates back to at least the 12th century, and many of Belgium’s breweries still use traditional techniques to produce classic styles true to their heritage. From witbiers (wheat beers), also known as white or wheat beers, and Belgian-style pale ales, to saisons, dubbels and tripels, as well as wild-ferment styles like lambics and oud bruins, Belgium is home to a beautiful bevy of beer styles. The options are plentiful, and the pours are almost always tasty.…

Unusual formats and graphics break the ice between sommeliers and guests. Every few weeks, June Rodil, MS, can be found with scissors in hand, surrounded by construction paper and piles of brightly hued pencils. She isn’t working on a scrapbooking project. She’s making an old school ’zine, and the finished product will double as a colorful wine list at June’s All Day in Austin, Texas. “It gives me an opportunity to do little cartoons, or present a little more information than just looking at a list,” says Rodil, vice president of operations and beverage director for McGuire Moorman Hospitality group, which operates the wine bar/café. Rodil’s crafty presentation is just one of a small but growing number of drink menus designed to make selecting a bottle easier—and, yes, more…

VINTAGE 100 Pol Roger 2008 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill Brut (Champagne). One of the great Champagnes both for its richness and its longevity, this latest incarnation is superb. The wine’s richness is linked to the ripe fruit and the dominance of Pinot Noir in the blend. It also shines in the perfect balance between the texture, the minerality and the integration of the fruit. It can be enjoyed now, but it will be better from 2020 and then for many years to come. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $293 99 Salon 2007 Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). For full review see page 129. Cellar Selection. abv: 12% Price: $672 98 Louis Roederer 1995 Cristal Vinothèque Brut (Champagne). For full review see…

TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE 100 Kracher 2015 Zwischen den Seen Muscat Ottonel Trockenbeerenauslese Nummer 8 (Burgenland). Damask rose, honeysuckle and blood orange peel unite in an almost otherworldly headiness. The palate keeps shimmering with these floral overtones while a solid wave of sweetness assails the taste buds with an insisting urgency, only to follow this with a sharp, welcome smack of pure lemon freshness. These notions alternate and fill the head with the pleasure of their tension. Sublime. Drink until 2040, at least. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 9.5% Price: $130/375 ml 100 Kracher 2015 Zwischen den Seen Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese Nummer 4 (Burgenland). An exquisitely floral honeysuckle aroma surrounds a creamy yet sharp note of passion fruit, while a peppery verve tingles around the edges. The palate has the same…

MALBEC 93 Trapiche 2014 Terroir Series Finca Coletto Single Vineyard El Parel Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 137. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 92 Infinito 2014 Winemaker’s Selection Malbec (Mendoza). A massive nose with huge blackberry and cassis aromas is ripe to the max. This Malbec is flush but still fairly fresh, so it succeeds in blending power with structure and balance. Flavors of blackberry and cassis show a chocolaty touch on the finish. Drink through 2023. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $38 92 Pyros 2014 Single Vineyard Block No. 4 Malbec (Pedernal Valley). Salentein’s new San Juan project is one to watch. This sunbaked Malbec is a touch desiccated on the nose, with ultraripe aromas of blackberry, prune, raisin and marzipan. A pure…