Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2018 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

As terms like natural, biodynamic and orange reverberate through the wine world, it’s time to cultivate a deeper understanding of the wines that fall within these fascinating categories. Quench your thirst for knowledge with these books that speak to all things artisan wine. OLDIES BUT GOODIES No artisan wine lover’s bookshelf would be complete without these natty-loving classics. Visit winemag.com/nattywinebooks to learn more about them. AN UNLIKELY VINEYARD By Deirdre Heekin AUTHENTIC WINE By Jamie Goode and Sam Harrop, MW THE BATTLE FOR WINE AND LOVE By Alice Feiring THE FUTURE MAKERS By Max Allen NAKED WINE By Alice Feiring NATURAL WINE By Isabelle Legeron REAL WINE By Patrick Matthews VOODOO VINTNERS By Katherine Cole…

It only takes one languid day spent roaming around Barcelona to realize that Catalans know how to live. Specifically, they know how to relax, usually with a beverage in hand. To get the full experience is to know the cadence of all-day drinks and snacks, an ethos you can easily adopt with these tips. Start with a small beer and light midmorning meal. Afternoon brings vermouth and salty bites. Later, dinner with wine is followed by ratafía, a locally made digestif. MIDMORNING The region, and Barcelona in particular, is in the midst a craft beer renaissance. Spearheaded by American expats, the movement has brought an influx of high-quality pours. Beers made by Edge Brewing, Fort and La Companyia Cervesera del Montseny (CCM) can be found in the U.S. For…

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 97 Domaine du Pegau 2015 Cuvée da Capo (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Made only in exceptional vintages, the Cuvée da Capo is a powerful, deeply nuanced wine pulsating with fruit and earth complexities. Black-cherry and red-plum flavors are alluring and ripe yet tinged by veins of moss, smoke and fur. It’s soft and silky on the palate yet composed. The finish is long and lifted. Gorgeous already it will improve through 2030 and hold further. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 15.5% Price: $550 96 Domaine du Pegau 2015 Cuvée Réservée (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Savory notes of bramble, smoke and leather juxtapose forward plum, cherry and strawberry in this full-bodied wine. It’s a penetrating, mouthfilling sip that lingers on the palate, finishing on soft, furry tannins. Approachable already, this concentrated wine should…

DOURO 95 Quinta da Zaralhôa 2010 Vinhas Velhas (Douro). Produced from vines dating to the 1930s and 1940s, this wine, after eight years, is mature. The vineyard in the Douro Superior has given a superlative wine full of fruit and tannins, with an almost Port-like richness that is opulent and impressive. Drink this wine now. Bliss Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 94 Colinas do Douro 2015 Quinta da Extrema Edicão 1 (Douro). Aged in both small and larger barrels, this wine comes from the Douro Superior region in the upper Douro. Its tannins and generous texture are all part of a rich, full and powerful wine. Black fruits, a firm structure and acidity come together but need more time. Drink from 2022. USA Wine West.…

TREBBIANO 92 Emidio Pepe 2014 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Reminiscent of running through an orchard in the peak of autumn, this offers nostalgic aromas of sweet hay with ripe apples and pears. The palate is rounded in feel and concentrated in these same tones, with a revitalizing wet limestone streak from start to finish. Polaner Selections. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $115 91 Masciarelli 2015 Marina Cvetić Riserva (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). A mix of grilled pineapple, citrus oil and sea spray starts off this rich white. Time in oak is apparent yet integrated, offering a delicate brûléed edge to the citrus, pineapple and apricot flavors. Persistent acidity balances it all, leading to a lingering cured lemon finish. Vintus LLC. —A.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 90 Valle Reale 2016 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. A broad nose…

CABERNET FRANC 90 The Orcas Project 2016 Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Fruit for this 100% varietal wine comes from Bacchus and Weinbau vineyards. There’s no mistaking the variety, with its notes of sliced green pepper, herb, flower and cherry. The pit-fruit flavors are sweet but show a pretty sense of elegance that carries through the finish. It’s all about subtlety. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $51 88 Eternal 2015 Privelege Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). A mere one barrel was produced of this wine. Dried herb aromas and flavors are at the fore, followed by green pepper, baking spice, dill and cherry. Lighter styled, it shows a pretty sense of nuance, with fruit and barrel playing off each other. Coffee and vanilla notes linger on the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price:…

VIOGNIER 90 Big Cork Vineyards 2015 Viognier (Maryland). For full review see page 132. abv: 13.3% Price: $34 89 Jones von Drehle 2015 Estate Viognier (Yadkin Valley). Bright, grassy notes lead the nose with peach, lime juice and bell pepper. The round palate offers concentrated notes of beach grass, kumquat and more lime juice. Tingling acidity builds towards the zesty finish, loaded with yellow peach and white pepper. —F.A. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 88 Medaloni 2016 Viognier (Yadkin Valley). For full review see page 134. abv: 13% Price: $21 87 Sanctuary Vineyards 2016 Handcrafted Vin Orange Viognier (North Carolina). This orange Viognier, fermented on the skins, is cloudy in appearance, offering aromas of Mandarins, lychees, yellow peaches and fresh lillies. Drying tannins and a dandelion note distract from candied…

The leek is the tall and handsome star of the Allium genus, which includes onions, scallions, garlic, shallots, chives and ramps. Its long stalk is made up of tightly bundled leaves, while the white part grows underground and dirt embeds between the layers as it matures. If you’re planning to serve leeks whole, split them lengthwise almost to the root end and fan out their layers to clean and rinse away grit. Like onions, leeks meld with almost any flavor, but they’re especially elegant as the main ingredient. Two of the most common uses are in vichyssoise and cock-a-leekie soup. You can also try them braised in wine or other liquid, creamed as you would onions or spinach, added to omelets, quiches and frittatas, or poached with a tarragon…

The old adage, “If it grows together, it goes together,” has long been a philosophy of farm-to-table restaurants. Brewers around the world employ the same idea when they add fruits and vegetables to their beers. While numerous year-round offerings feature grapefruit, cucumber or chile peppers, these five take a decidedly more autumn-harvest focus.…

There must be more to throat-soothing, cold-weather drinking than hot toddies and mulled wine. Tea can provide a glorious range of flavors as a cozy cocktail base. Here, tea expert Stephen Thomas of Rishi Tea & Botanicals and Max Green, head bartender at tea-centric bar Blue Quarter in New York City, share their go-to recipes. I Can See Kilimanjaro The word chai literally means tea. Masala chai is a spiced, gingery blend of black teas that’s often brewed with steamed milk. This cocktail is no exception, but it also gets a good dose of rhum agricole and maple syrup, for sweet depth. Bring 1 ounce brewed masala chai, 8 ounces water and 8 ounces milk to boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, then strain into a container. Blend 3 ounces…

There are not many wine regions that produce a wide array of wines while still offering quality at an excellent range of price points. Southwest France is one of the select few, and American drinkers are catching on. Compared to a decade ago, the range of wines now available is astonishing. There are low-alcohol white wines from Côtes de Gascogne which are perfect as an aperitif and rich reds from Cahors and Madiran that pair with any bold flavored winter dishes. The region is also home to rare grapes like Négrette, Duras and Braucol that extend the wine world beyond the familiar international varieties. There are many discoveries to be made: from bold reds, to racy whites, to ethereal sweet wines. Southwest France may be new to our palates,…

PINOT NOIR 87 Le Jardin d’Eolie 2017 Pinot Noir (Vin de France). Talc, carnation, cherry, raspberry preserve and wild blueberry aromas dance in the bouquet of this light-footed, attractive wine. The palate boasts a bit more intensity, thanks to structuring tannins and ripe flavors of brambly berry, plum skin and earthy stem. Advantage International. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 86 Belles Eaux 2017 Cuvée Belle Epoque Pinot Noir (Vin de France). There’s a slightly lifted character to the liquorous cherry and blackberry aromas on the nose of this Pinot, with a subtle hint of minty herbs in the background. The palate is surprisingly gripping, with astringent tannins that frame the pithy plum-skin and black-cherry flavors. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 86 Bouquet 2017…

BIERZO 91 Alvarez de Toledo 2015 Colección de Familia Mencía (Bierzo). For full review see page 129. abv: 14% Price: $24 91 Vinos de Arganza 2015 Viña Século Mencía (Bierzo). This Mencía smells more ripe than fresh, with aromas of prune, raisin and spice cake. A jammy palate is a touch overweight, while mocha, spice, raisin and cassis flavors finish rich and chocolaty. Drink now for its ripe friendliness. W Direct. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $24 90 Alvarez de Toledo 2015 Roble Mencía (Bierzo). Welcoming aromas of berry fruit come with a bit of oaky menthol in support. A full palate, bright acidity and slightly edgy tannins make for a healthy ride. Plum, currant and juicy berry flavors are choppy on a fresh, bold finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd.…

MALBEC 96 Viña Cobos 2015 Bramare Chañares Estate Malbec (Valle de Uco). A deep purple color and equally deep aromas of wild berry and blueberry open this lush Malbec from one of Cobos’s newest vineyards in the Valle de Uco. A sensuous palate is dense but balanced, with a bit more freshness than this label is known for. Mocha, chocolate and black-fruit flavors are steady on a smooth finish. Drink this superb Malbec through 2030. Paul Hobbs Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $115 95 Viña Cobos 2015 Bramare Rebon Estate Malbec (La Consulta). Pure berry aromas give the impression of nothing but clarity and purity. This is saturated and pushing the ripeness meter to the edge of syrupy, but not quite. Blackberry, root beer and chocolate flavors…

WHITE WINES 89 Cinder 2016 Dry Viognier (Snake River Valley). Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this wine is a blend of fruit from Sawtooth, Martin and Williamson vineyards. Bright aromas of tangerine, mouthwatering ripe peach and honeysuckle lead to plentiful stone fruit flavors that glide on the apricot-filled finish. —S.S. abv: 13.1% Price: $18 84 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2016 Single Vineyard Chardonnay (Eagle Foothills). Reduced out of the gate, it’s a bit of a challenge to get at the varietal aromas. The flavors of lees, pear and star fruit provide intrigue, tapering toward the finish, with the concentration overall seeming a bit light. —S.S. abv: 13.4% Price: $19 RED WINES 87 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards 2014 Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Eagle Foothills). The aromas seem a bit…

CHARDONNAY 93 CheckMate 2014 Attack Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley). For full review see page 124. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.2% Price: $90 92 CheckMate 2014 Capture Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley). This creamy wine offers excellent details of celery, apple, butter cream, vanilla cookie dough and a dash of cinnamon. It’s all Dijon 76 clone, wild yeast fermented and aged in half new French oak barrels. It is one of a half-dozen chess- themed Chardonnays from this exciting new winery. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 92 CheckMate 2014 Knight’s Challenge Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley). The half-dozen Chardonnays from this new producer are subtly differentiated, and reward your extra attention. This is comprised of Dijon clones, fermented with wild yeasts and aged 17 months in 45% new French oak. It’s gracefully layered with blended flavors…

The holidays are just around the corner, and family and friends will soon be gathering. Better be prepared with a fridge stocked full of chilly weather’s best friend: double or imperial IPAs. Imperial IPAs are basically India pale ales kicked up to 11—more malt, more alcohol and most importantly, more hops. The result is a complex, strong sipping beer with IBUs, or international bittering units, climbing above 60 and, in some cases, well beyond at upward of 100. Imperial IPAs are basically India pale ales kicked up to 11—more malt, more alcohol and, most importantly, more hops. Double or imperial IPAs, casually referred to and occasionally labeled as DIPA, are perfect for the season. They lend themselves wonderfully to Thanksgiving fare, offering assertive, earthy flavors of rich hops and…

After the Thanksgiving guests have gone home and the leftover sweet potato casserole has been stashed in the fridge, put up your feet and sip this autumnal-hued daiquiri. This is a simplified version of the tropical elixir served at The Polynesian, a sprawling tiki lounge that opened in May within Pod Times Square Hotel. The secret ingredient: ube (pronounced OOH-bay), a.k.a. purple yam. Just a dash of its extract gives this drink a vibrant violet tint. It’s produced by McCormick and can be purchased online. You can make the cocktail without it, but it won’t be purple. COMMODORE DAIQUIRI Adapted from Brian Miller, partner/bartender, The Polynesian, New York City 1 ounce white rum, preferably Barbancourt White Rhum1 ounce aged rum, preferably El Dorado 3 Year Old Cask Aged Rum1…

While Queen Victoria was finishing dinners with peaches, American nobility was sipping mint juleps concocted with fruit brandy—not Bourbon. Today, Southern spirit makers are attempting to ignite a renaissance of the beverage. “Historically, fruit brandy commanded a premium over whiskey in the cottage industry,” says Chadwick Ralston, who heads marketing at American Spirit Whiskey Distillery in Atlanta. Before Prohibition, a dry style of peach brandy was made using all parts of the fruit, its production devoid of added sugar or flavoring. American Spirit Whiskey Distillery and High Wire Distilling, based in Charleston, South Carolina, are among a handful of commercial distillers using traditional cues and exquisite varieties to bring back the brandy. Production is dependent on cooperating weather cycles for ripe freestone peaches (where the pit easily separates from…

ROSÉS 93 René Muré NV Brut Rosé (Crémant d’Alsace). A pale-pink color and an appetizing aroma of baked red apples make this very appetizing. There is a certain creaminess on the nose, too, which also pervades the wonderfully tart but ripe red-apple fruit. In the background is a hint of patisserie as a proof of subtle autolysis. This is fresh with pristine flavors and tiny fine bubbles. It’s a real joy. Gargouille Collection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 92 Boeckel NV Brut Rosé (Crémant d’Alsace). The merest touch of lemon appears on the nose of this pale-pink sparkler. The palate comes in with the same restraint but notes of red apple and ripe lemon slowly unfold. The mousse is very fine and delicate, as are the flavors. This is…

BRUT 96 Wiston Estate Winery 2009 Cuvée Brut (England). Softly scented freshness has hints of lemon zest and ripe yellow apple. On the palate, these flavors unfold and are joined by a well of creamy depth that lends another dimension to freshness and fruit. This echoes with richness and aromatic complexity: stone, earth, yeast and citrus create layers of flavor and expression. Savor this, and let it happen to you. The finish is seemingly endless. Lovely now, certain to develop. Drink 2018–2028. K&L Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $50 95 Nyetimber 2013 Tillington Single Vineyard (England). A subtle hint of wet stone and sourdough has the faintest idea of honey about it. The autolytic richness suggested on the nose is countered on the palate by pure,…

2014 VINTAGE 96 Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2014 Monvigliero (Barolo). Enticing scents of rose, aromatic herb, new leather, truffle and balsamic notes are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this outstanding wine. On the elegant vibrant palate, bright acidity and polished tannins offset juicy red cherry, crushed strawberry, rhubarb, clove and white pepper. Drink 2022–2034. Bacchanal Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $80 96 Massolino 2014 Parafada (Barolo). For full review see page 122. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $95 95 Cantina Bartolo Mascarello 2014 Barolo. This lovely radiant Barolo is another showstopper despite the difficulties of the cool wet vintage. It’s incredibly elegant, with alluring scents of perfumed blue flower, rose petal, woodland berry and a whiff of menthol. The focused graceful palate boasts fantastic tension,…

CHARDONNAY 94 Bob Cabral Wines 2015 Cuvée Anne Rose Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 122. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 94 Massican 2017 Hyde Vineyards Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Spicy lemongrass, ginger and high-toned acidity immediately invite one in to this vineyard-designated white, a study in grainy texture and a light touch of oak. Green apple and lemon-drop flavors tease the palate effortlessly, evolving constantly in the glass. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $45 94 Migration 2016 Charles Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 123. abv: 14.5% Price: $56 94 Wayfarer 2016 Wayfarer Vineyard Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Moderately structured, complex and balanced in weight, this is a tremendous white, coastal in briny salt breeze and oak. The fruit profile is savory and crisp, a mix…

CHARDONNAY 88 Sutcliffe 2015 Chardonnay (Colorado). This Chardonnay opens with pleasant aromas of lemon curd, filo dough, fennel and rye. The palate has some heft, but is lifted by tangy acidity and radiates lemon juice and orange zest flavors anchored by oaky nuances of pie crust and browned butter. The lingering lemony finish offers undertones of Marcona almond. —F.A. abv: 13.4% Price: $32 87 Sutcliffe 2015 Signature Castillo Vineyard Chardonnay (Colorado). The aromas are deceptively rich in this wine, leading with butterscotch followed by overripe mango, ripe yellow peach and orange blossom honey. The palate is electric with bright pineapple acidity, tart green apple and more ripe peach. The acidity builds towards searing on the finish, bordering on punishing, with fresh lime juice trailing on and on. —F.A. abv:…

In recent years, Canadian whisky has undergone a revival. The country’s mellow, approachable whisky has gathered acclaim, and, at the same time, the number of distilleries in Canada has quickly grown—fostering more innovation. Meanwhile, a number of U.S. producers blend Canadian-made whisky with American counterparts. Many of these aren’t labeled as Canadian whisky (see Cask & Crew, Whistlepig and even Kentucky stalwart Basil Hayden’s), yet still contain a measure of distillate made to the north. So, although we had set out to spotlight only Canadian whiskies in this month’s set of reviews, it made sense to incorporate some of these U.S./Canadian hybrids too. A number of U.S. producers blend Canadian-made whisky with American counterparts. Historically, rye has been used as a catch-all term for Canadian whiskey—even though rye often…

I met Laura at the storied Clermont Lounge, a strip club in Atlanta. I was a regular there in my early 20s, mainly because my buddy Robyn was a bartender. I made lots of friends, and on a bleary-eyed weeknight, I met Laura Brennan-Bissell, another bartender. At the time, Laura and I worked odd jobs at restaurants, got around on bikes and spent way too much time in bars. We learned that, despite my Puerto Rican roots and her Virginia/Washington, D.C. heritage, we had similar upbringings. We’d both experienced financial hardship, struggled with unstable families and survived extreme violence. Wine and food emerged as a way for us to connect and carve out a future. I talked to Laura about the famous buttermilk-brined fried chicken from the Watershed, where…