Innholdsfortegnelse for Pacific Northwest Bookazine i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

It’s impossible to overstate how quickly the Pacific Northwest’s wine industry has evolved. In just 50 years, the area has grown from a few grapevines to a world-class wine-producing region. Innovation, vision and the hands-on enthusiasm of wine producers of all sizes have fueled this explosive change. Washington’s Walla Walla Valley serves as a good example. The first modern grapevines were planted there in 1974. For years, the valley grew slowly, with less than 20 operating wineries at the turn of the century. Even 40 years ago, anyone driving through downtown Walla Walla would pass only boarded-up buildings. Less than 20 years later, there are more than 100 wineries in the valley, and many of those boarded-up buildings have been converted to chic tasting rooms and renowned restaurants. The…

Just 30 minutes from Seattle, Woodinville is one of Washington’s wine epicenters, despite having only two-and-a-half acres of wine grapes planted. Most of the state’s vineyards are located two or more hours east. The city has nearly 120 wineries and tasting rooms, ranging from the palatial Chateau Ste. Michelle to hidden gems in industrial parks. WHERE TO DINE Start with breakfast at The Commons, where you’ll be in prime position to explore dozens of nearby tasting rooms. For lunch or dinner, Purple Café and Wine Bar and Barking Frog both offer exquisite Pacific Northwest cuisine and extensive local wine lists. The nine-course locavore meal at The Herbfarm, where menus change weekly, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. WHERE TO STAY Willows Lodge, on the Sammamish River, delivers a classic Northwest experience.…

BOASTING SO MANY EXEMPLARY PINOT NOIR PRODUCERS, Willamette Valley is synonymous with that cultivar, but digging beneath the regionís topsoil turns up a treasure trove of oenophile delights spanning a wide array of varietals. A locale rich for such excavation is the Tualatin Valley in Willametteís northwestern expanses. Formed by its eponymous river, it is a mere half-hour drive from Portland, making it PDXís closest city-to-vineyard destination. Ideal for exploration year-round, Tualatin Valley was forged by pioneers yet, ironically, remains largely undiscovered. Itís where legendary winemaker Chuck Coury planted some of the oldest vines in the Willamette Valley after returning from a viticultural reconnaissance mission in Burgundy in the mid-1960s. Today, David Hill Vineyard tends that acreage and its diverse portfolio of estate wines benefits from Coury’s foresight, helping…

The Umpqua Valley AVA is home to 32 producers, more than 40 grapes and about 70 vineyards. The warmest sites lie to the south, where several mountain ranges converge. Tasting rooms cluster around Roseburg, home to the Southern Oregon Wine Institute. WHERE TO DINE Roseburg is the center for dining. Top choice is the Parrott House, which offers a farm-to-table menu in an old Victorian home. True Kitchen + Bar features seafood and pasta, with vegan options. Brix Grill serves new American fare. Try Blac-N-Bleu Bistro for lunch and Ami Japanese Restaurant for sushi and Korean barbecue. WHERE TO STAY For a vineyard view, Delfino Vineyards, Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards and Cooper Ridge Vineyard feature various types of rentable lodgings adjacent to tasting rooms. The Steamboat Inn incorporates portions of…

On the west coast of Canada, Vancouver is a city of skyscrapers at nature’s edge. Up-and-coming neighborhoods within walking distance of downtown showcase the hippie-cum-hipster spirit of what some call Lotus-Land (in addition to “Vansterdam” and the “City of Glass”). Meanwhile, microbreweries, on-tap wine, world-class design and farm-to-fork fuel an overall relaxed, get-outside vibe. SEE Grab a Mobi bike from a downtown bike-share station, and enjoy the views of mountains and coast as you pedal along the seawall (right) that skirts Stanley Park, Vancouver’s 1,001-acre backyard. Detour through ancient rainforest before continuing down the waterfront path, past West End beaches, marinas by Yaletown and to the market on Granville Island. Pedal a little farther into Kitsilano, where Kits Point juts into English Bay, then catch a tug-like Aquabus ferry…

Some of Vancouver’s most elegant plant-forward cuisine flourishes at Botanist, which opened in 2017 inside the Fairmont Pacific Rim hotel. Here, Chef Hector Laguna and Jill Spoor, wine director for Fairmont’s Pacific Northwest properties, share a passion for environmentally sensitive farming as a means to express terroir. This dish uses the Chinook (king) salmon found in B.C. waters in spring and summer. Be sure to use the freshest fish you can find. SPRING SALMON WITH FENNEL SALAD Courtesy Hector Laguna, executive chef, Botanist, Vancouver 1 ear corn1 orange1 bulb fennel, cored and thin-shaved, fronds chopped5 chives, fine-chopped5 sprigs cilantro, fine-chopped2 5-ounce skin-on, boneless salmon fillets (preferably Chinook), room temperatureVegetable oil, for panSalt, to season1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil2 tablespoons unsalted butterLemon, to finishFlaky sea salt, to finish Cook corn…

While Washington’s modern-day wine industry is more than half a century old, the past two decades have seen extraordinary growth. In 2000, there were 163 wineries. Now, there are almost six times that number, with a new winery opened about every 30 days. Vineyard acreage, too, has risen sharply. A period of grand exploration and experimentation has come alongside this increase. Wine growers and vintners are investigating new areas to plant grapes, and are working with newly introduced varieties. They are evaluating different grape-growing techniques and vinification methods, as well as trying out different styles. Because the state’s industry is so young compared to other wine regions, few variables are completely set. As a result, Washington is not defined by a single grape variety or style and is instead…

YAKIMA VALLEY Established in 1983, Yakima Valley is Washington’s oldest appellation. It is the work horse of the Washington wine industry, home to one quarter of the state’s wine-grape acreage. The valley includes some of the larger Columbia Valley’s warmest regions as well as some of its coolest. White-grape plantings, particularly Chardonnay and Riesling, outnumber red-grape plantings, which are led by Merlot. COLUMBIA VALLEY By far Washington’s largest and most significant appellation, the Columbia Valley encompasses one-third of the land mass of the entire state. A section of this growing region stretches down into northern Oregon, though few vineyards are located there. Both red (65%) and white (35%) grape varieties are planted. The area shows great diversity in elevation, aspect and heat accumulation. Almost all of Washington’s other growing…

More than 80 grape varieties are planted in Washington, but one seems to be separating itself from the crowd: Cabernet Sauvignon. Washington’s Cabernet plantings date to the early 1940s, and vines planted in 1956 at Otis Vineyard in the Yakima Valley remain some of the oldest in production today. With a climate once thought too cool to ripen Cabernet Sauvignon, plantings across the Columbia Valley (Washington’s largest wine-growing region) have increased through the decades. Many of the state’s early producers, names that include Quilceda Creek, Leonetti Cellar and Woodward Canyon, made reputations based on their Cabernets. Still, varieties like Riesling and Chardonnay led the state in production. Then, in 2013, Cabernet became Washington’s most-produced grape variety. Plantings have only increased in subsequent years, with Cabernet production up a whopping…

Seattle is a vacation paradise. Hike in the mountains or sail the Puget Sound by day and take advantage of all that the city has to offer at night. During summertime, the dense foliage gleams a vibrant green that inspires the town’s nickname, the Emerald City. DRINK Your first stop should be downtown’s RN74, and its not-to-be-missed, train-board-style wine list of daily specials. RN focuses on Burgundy and Rhône wines but also has pours from around the world. Looking for the hottest Washington wines? They’ve got that. Thirsting for an 1877 Lafite-Rothschild? They’ve got that, too. For cocktails, head to Canon, a Seattle icon. Make sure to carve out some time to ponder its 100-drink menu. Want to explore the urban wine scene? Check out SODO Urban Works, a…

Barely 50 years ago, the first Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs were released. A 1980s guide to Oregon wine listed just a couple dozen wineries statewide, many long gone. Today, Oregon has close to 800 wineries, and Pinot Noir continues to star in that success story. Although the Willamette Valley vineyards remain the standard bearers for quality, Pinot Noir is grown all over the state, from the warm-climate vineyards of Southern Oregon—source for many of the inexpensive, fruitier styles—to the cooler Columbia Gorge. Decades of research into soils, clones, site selection and careful, non-intrusive winemaking have continually ramped up quality. It’s rare that any wine region trumpets how costly their wines are. Here, however, it’s a mark of pride. These are not inexpensive wines. Oregon wines overall have an average…

If you’re looking for wines made from old vines, your mind probably journeys to Germany, France, Spain or Italy. In the New World, it might be 19th-century Shiraz from the Barossa, or Zinfandel from California. But do you know that many of America’s most interesting old-vine bottlings are made in Oregon? When you see “old vine,” “ancient vine,” “original vine,” or some other reference to vine age on the label of a U.S. wine, these are unregulated terms. The federal government is silent on the matter. It’s basically an honor system, although there’s considerable agreement that 35 years is a fair age to be called old vines. “My definition of ‘old vine’ increases with my own age,” says Jason Lett, proprietor/winemaker of The Eyrie Vineyards. “I’m calling the beginning…

Portland originally earned the nickname Stumptown because its rapid growth meant that freshly cut tree stumps littered empty lots. Today, the city’s food and drink scene continues apace, marked by an emphasis on locally grown and produced ingredients, and playful combinations of flavors from around the world. With the Willamette Valley just an hour out of town, there’s wonderful wine everywhere, too. EAT In a city packed with great restaurants, it’s hard to know where to start, but breakfast makes a good beginning. Måurice opens at 10 a.m. with coffee and pastries. For faster, more casual eats, check out the city’s food-cart pods—Alder Street is the biggest. When you’re ready for dinner, try Bistro Agnes for beautifully prepared renditions of French cuisine. Nostrana (below) is a Portland institution for…

The vistas of Boise, Idaho, may not be the first travel destination that comes to mind for most wine lovers. However, its location in the middle of the up-and-coming Snake River Valley AVA is an ideal base from which to explore the area’s wine country. A blend of urban savvy, proximity to nature and an entrepreneurial streak means that this city—the fastest growing in America—won’t stay unsung for long. SEE Boise has the largest Basque population in the country, and The Basque Museum and Cultural Center (right) is the only facility in the U.S. that details the heritage and impact of this ethnic community in Idaho and around the world. Don’t miss the food and wine at the Basque Market just down the street. Idaho’s only hands-on interactive science…

Though drivers in Canada’s most southwestern province can choose from more than 40 different license plates, about half of the selections feature the tagline “Beautiful British Columbia,” and for good reason. From the Gulf Islands in the west, to the capital of Victoria in the south and the heights of the Canadian Rockies, the real-life landscapes of B.C. surpass the hyperbole. But every necklace must have its most shining jewel, and, for lovers of wine and outdoor recreation, B.C.’s is the Okanagan Valley. About 240 miles east of Vancouver, running north to south amid the Canadian Rockies, Cascade and Coast mountain ranges, the valley opens to reveal a series of narrow, crystalline lakes. The area has long been a center for agriculture, and today it’s also a natural, four-season…

Washington grows grape varieties ranging from Aglianico to Zinfandel. Still, a connective thread runs through the state’s wines. In general, these wines bring together a New World ripeness of flavor (think of the opulence of fruit from wine regions like California and Australia) with an Old World type of acid and tannin structure (similar to the austerity of the wines from places like France and Italy). This creates an expression that straddles the two styles, but remains distinct to Washington. What makes the state’s wines taste the way they do? It’s a combination of three factors: geography, geology and climate. A TALE OF TWO CLIMATES “When I travel, people always say, ‘It’s cold and rainy [in Washington]. How do you ripen Cabernet?’” says Winemaker/Partner Chris Peterson of Avennia. Indeed,…

Washington State has seen explosive growth over the last 15 years, ballooning from 200 wineries to more than 940 today. With this growth has come an influx of talented winemakers, all with their own ideas about what Washington wine is and how it should be made. Though young, many of them have diversified the style and increased overall quality statewide. The five winemakers chronicled here are among those having an outsized impact on Washington’s wines. VICTOR PALENCIA PALENCIA WINES/MONARCA WINES “My upbringing was in the vineyards,” says Victor Palencia. Born in Mexico, Palencia came to eastern Washington with his family when he was two. His father began working in the state’s vineyards and, once he was 13, Palencia would join him after school. “It was very labor-intensive,” he says.…

Truly a postcard of American beauty, Walla Walla vistas present rolling wheat fields and vineyards backed by the majestic Blue Mountains. There’s a tangible thrum to the area, which has grown from fewer than 20 wineries in the late ’90s to more than 100 today. WHERE TO DINE Located in an old lumber-planing mill, Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant is on the National Register of Historic Places. It’s a white-tablecloth experience that features exquisitely presented American fare alongside an extensive wine list of local offerings and labels from around the world. WHERE TO STAY A century-old farm has been restored and transformed into the Inn at Abeja. The 38-acre property, which has extensive gardens, is also home to Abeja Winery (visits are upon request only), surrounded by one of its estate vineyards.…

SMOKED OYSTERS WITH APPLE-PARSNIP BUTTER Courtesy Dan Koommoo, chef/owner, Crafted, Yakima 12 small oysters, such as kusshi, Kumamoto or capital½ green apple, peeled, cored and fine-diced½ tablespoon grated fresh horseradish (or more, to taste)1 tablespoon lemon zest¼ teaspoon Espelette pepper (or substitute cayenne, hot paprika or Aleppo pepper)1 teaspoon minced chives1 tablespoon celery leaves, chopped½ lemon, juiced2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilSalt, to tasteApple-Parsnip Butter(recipe follows)Crackers, for servingHot sauce, for serving Set up stovetop or outdoor smoker with 1 cup of soaked wood chips (preferably applewood), or place wood chips in foil pouch poked with holes and place under grates of covered grill. Heat smoker or grill and add oysters, cupped side down. Smoke until shells open, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Let cool. Remove oysters and juices from…

Oregon makes world-class Pinot Noir. A lot of it: The variety accounts for more than half of the state’s total vineyard acreage. But there’s much more to the story of the wine industry here than Pinot production. Though Oregon wines account for barely 1% of total U.S. wine production, their impact in terms of scores, awards, international acclaim and placement on top restaurant wine lists far outpaces the limited output. The epicenter of Oregon wine country is the Willamette Valley, best known for producing some of that aforementioned Pinot Noir. Here, vintners are also increasingly excited about another superstar Burgundy grape, Chardonnay, which reflects a brightness and purity that differentiates it from other New World styles. The Valley’s diverse soils and vineyard settings ripen distinctive Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot…

Oregon Pinot Noir has enjoyed much success, but the state is not a one-trick pony. Oregon’s diversity of climate and soil has encouraged winemakers to expand their viticultural horizons. Even the Pinot-centric Willamette Valley offers impressive plantings of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling. On the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater AVA produces some of the country’s best Syrahs. From the Columbia Gorge AVA—also shared with Washington but divided here by the Columbia River—come racy whites, meaty Tempranillos and potent, old-vine Zinfandels. In the Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate Valleys of Southern Oregon, a mix of elevations and a moderately hotter climate ripens outstanding Albariño, Grüner Veltliner, Viognier, Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and both white and red Rhône-style blends. Many other grapes and different…

Just short of 3,500 acres, this tiny AVA is a subappellation of Chehalem Mountains in northern Yamhill County. It’s home to only a dozen or so wineries, with 34 vineyards across 600 planted acres, and quality runs high. WHERE TO DINE The city of Carlton serves up the best choices. Start with Carlton Bakery for coffee, pastries and sandwiches. Get a vegan salad at The Horse Radish, or indulge your inner carnivore with burgers and brews at Barrel 47 or Carlton Corners. For white tablecloth French cuisine, try Cuvée. WHERE TO STAY The R.R. Thompson House B&B, just a few blocks up from Carlton’s Main Street, has modern amenities in a quaint setting. In McMinnville, Atticus Hotel is in the downtown historic district. The Allison Inn & Spa in…

HAZELNUT AND PINEAPPLE BAKLAVA WITH BRIE Courtesy Gabriel Rucker, chef/owner, Canard, Portland, OR ½ cup honey⅓ cup fresh pineapple juice¼ teaspoon Espelette, cayenne or Aleppo pepper½ lemon, juiced2 cups toasted hazelnuts1 teaspoon truffle oil¼ cup dark-brown sugar2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage2 teaspoons salt¼ teaspoon black pepper1 package frozen phyllo dough, thawed3 sticks butter, melted, plus more for pan8 ounces Brie, cut into 8 wedges, for servingOregon truffle, for garnish (optional) In small saucepan over medium heat, combine honey, pineapple juice and pepper. Simmer just until mixture becomes syrup, about 10 minutes. Add lemon juice and cool to room temperature. Set aside. Place hazelnuts, truffle oil, sugar, sage, salt and pepper in food processor. Blend until coarse and crumbly. Butter 9x9-inch baking pan and trim phyllo dough to fit. Line…

When most people imagine Idaho, they think of potatoes. But if the state’s grape growers and winemakers have anything to say about it, that might well change. Idaho boasts a long and proud grape-growing history, with the first vines planted in Lewiston in 1864. The state was also home to some of the earliest wineries in the Pacific Northwest. As with elsewhere in the U.S., Prohibition devastated Idaho’s wine industry, and it took decades for it to even begin to recover. It wasn’t until 1970 that grape vines were once again planted, this time in the Snake River Valley. By 1975, the state had exactly one winery—Ste. Chapelle Winery. Today, its industry remains small, with more than 50 wineries and around 1,200 acres of grape vines. But both numbers…

At Fork in Boise, Co-owners Amanda and Cameron Lumsden’s commitment to regional products extends to the beverage list: Half of the beer, wine and spirits comes from the Pacific Northwest. Trout fishing is a year-round activity in Idaho, and the state leads in beet and potato production. IDAHO TROUT WITH ROASTED VEGETABLE HASH Courtesy Cameron Lumsden, owner, Fork, Boise 4 fingerling potatoes, cut into ½-inch dice1 Chioggia or yellow beet, peeled and cut in ½-inch dice1 small carrot, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice1 cup cauliflower florets, no bigger than 1 inch12 small Brussels sprouts, base removed, halved lengthwise4 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed and minced2 tablespoons minced garlic7 tablespoons unsalted butterSalt and pepper, to season4 6- to 8-ounce trout fillets, skin-on2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice Heat oven to…