Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2018 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

We hate to sound smug, but we think we look pretty good for our age. Celebrating our 30th anniversary as the world’s leading progressive wine magazine, we’re excited for what’s next as we continue to push new innovations, perspectives and dialogues within the sphere of wine, spirits, beer and food. We’ve got legacy, but we never stop refreshing who we are, whom we reach and what we help put in your glass. That said, it’s hard not to reflect while looking forward. Incredible, positive changes have taken place in the wine and food space since we launched, and we’ve been there every step of the way. Incredible, positive changes have taken place in the wine and food space since we launched, and we’ve been there every step of the…

HANGAR 1 ROSÉ FLAVORED VODKA $32 The California vodka maker launched this carnation-pink spirit in February. It contains 5% California rosé wine, which lends a fleeting, juicy cranberry note. The bottling is “inspired by the Bay Area,” says Head Distiller Caley Shoemaker. “Our Hangar 1 Straight Vodka is made from a Californian grape distillate, which means we work with many local farmers and neighboring winemakers.” BASIL HAYDEN’S DARK RYE $40 The first permanent addition to the Basil Hayden portfolio mixes a splash of California Port-style wine with Kentucky and Canadian rye whiskeys. The producer claims that it’s “designed to stand out in the ever-expanding crowd of American whiskeys.” The end result: a ruddy hue and warming caramel-cherry flavor profile, recommended to mix into a Boulevardier with Campari and sweet…

Cookbook author Julia Turshen is well known for encouraging cooks to celebrate even the smallest kitchen victories. Among friends and community organizers, she’s also notorious for her ability to nourish any sort of gathering. This simple mushroom recipe, from her new cookbook, Now & Again (available September 4), was born of her desire to welcome vegetarian dinner guests with a warm, robust appetizer, but it will easily win over any type of eater. Repurposed, the walnut stuffing could make a great topping for pasta, rice or roasted vegetables, or it can be used to revive leftovers. STUFFED MUSHROOMS WITH WALNUTS, GARLIC & PARSLEY Adapted from Now & Again, Julia Turshen (Chronicle Books) ¼ cup walnuts, halved Large handful of fresh Italian parsley leaves1 large garlic clove, minced3 tablespoons coarse-grated…

Channel the outdoorsy spirit of a fall camping trip with a smoke-tinged cocktail that’s playfully presented in a thermos. Bryan Schneider, beverage director at Quality Eats in New York City, layers two elements to capture the effect of a smoldering campfire: Lapsang Souchong tea, which adds a mildly smoky and earthy component, and a smoky whiskey. Use a non-smoked whiskey for a subtler effect, or choose from our list (right) to amp up the embers. CAMPFIRE COCKTAIL Courtesy Bryan Schneider, beverage director, Quality Eats, New York City 2 ounces whiskey1 ounce brewed Lapsang Souchong tea, cooled2 tablespoons orange marmalade½ ounce lemon juiceOrange peel (for garnish) In camping thermos or cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine first four ingredients. Shake well, then pour into thermos mug. If desired, garnish with…

So, you want to taste some Cabernet Sauvignon? Bottlings that are effusive, exuberant, sunshine-ripened and well-made? And maybe meet some of the people who make it, love it, own it and live it, too? A trip to Napa Valley, California, the epicenter of the American Cab scene, is in order. The beauty of this valley is that it’s pretty easy to navigate. Bustling Highway 29 runs from the city of Napa north to Calistoga. There’s also the Silverado Trail, a parallel road just to the east that will lead adventurers off the beaten path. Both offer worthy spots to get your Cabernet fix. These arteries are perfect for exploring not only the best wineries, but fine dining and natural beauty, too. They also lead to the benches and back…

MUSCADET CRUS 92 Domaine Brégeon Fred Lailler 2014 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Gorges. From the Gorges Cru in Muscadet, this wine is now mature, and it shows how well top Muscadet can age, though there’s lots of potential for additional development. It has lost some fruitiness but gained a creamy, nutty quality. At the same time, the acidity and freshness are still there. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $40 92 Lieubeau 2015 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson. Produced from organically grown grapes in the village of Clisson (one of three crus), this wine’s two years on the lees has produced a soft, broad character. Notes of almond and spice along with a silky texture give complexity as well as richness. The wine is…

KREMSTAL GRÜNER VELTLINER 94 Mantlerhof 2016 Ried Spiegel Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This wine’s beatutifully aromatic notions of red-cheeked russet pear and autumn leaves create an intriguing, appetizing nose. On the palate, textured, spicy savoriness takes over, suggesting even more russet pear and salty yeast. It’s intense, concentrated and utterly spicy, with the rattle and hum of white pepper throughout. Lovely now, it’s sure to develop even more intensity. Drink now–2030. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA 93 Berger 2017 Ried Reisenthal Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This wine’s lemon balm, fennel seed and pear scents create a savory yet fruity nose. The palate brings an extra dimenstion of texture created by yeasty, zesty notions. Though slender in body, it’s full of flavor and nuance, as all elements…

MALBEC 93 Altocedro 2015 Reserva Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 110. Editors’ Choice. abv: 15% Price: $34 92 Nieto Senetiner 2013 Don Nicanor Single Vineyard Villa Blanca Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). For full review see page 112. abv: 15% Price: $45 92 Viña Cobos 2015 Bramare Malbec (Valle de Uco). Even in a diffcult vintage like 2015, this Malbec is typically toasty and full up front, with mocha and coffee aromas. A saturated palate benefits from a blast of lemony acidity, while flavors of raisin, mocha and coffee match the nose. Baked berry flavors find a cushioned landing on full, intense finish. Drink through 2026. Paul Hobbs Selections. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $42 91 Casa Natal 2013 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Aromas of jammy blueberry and graphite…

My first mistake was that I never learned how to drive stick. My second, more egregious error was not knowing how to speak Italian. A few weeks after I turned 21, I embarked on my first solo wine trip to Italy. I’d become increasingly infatuated with wine, and I’d even tricked my college newspaper to let me write about it. The time had come for me to chase it abroad. It was early in the 2012 harvest when I landed in Torino with an itinerary to visit nearly a dozen wineries throughout the Langhe. I was as prepared as I could be. Or so I thought. At the rental car office, I heard the first of many exasperated mamma mias from the agent as I tried to explain that…

ANNIVERSARY CHEERS We’re turning 30! We want you to join in the fun: Explore Wine Enthusiast magazine covers from the past three decades, and vote for your favorite @wineenthusiast on Twitter and Instagram. Also, share your favorite beverage trends and wine moments with us and all your friends using #wineenthusiast30 WINE, MEET CHEESE Wine and cheese are two of life’s greatest pleasures, and finding the perfect match can be a seriously delicious endeavor. We’ve broken down the art of pairing the two favorites. The results? Maximum goodness. Visit winemag.com/wineandcheese WINE-BEER HYBRIDS Fancy a Cabernet Franc pale ale? How about a Viognier saison? Problem solved. A new wave of craft producers are combining brewing and winemaking to create unique beers perfect for wine lovers. Visit winemag.com/hybrids If you haven’t subscribed…

The scent of cinnamon evokes home, hearth and holidays, with a spicy edge. As writer Vanna Bonta said, “cinnamon bites and kisses simultaneously.” Cinnamon lends subtle warmth and complexity to many dishes. Though it’s associated with sweets here in America, it’s used in savory applications around the world, from Mexican mole sauces and Moroccan tagines to Middle Eastern pilafs and Greek moussaka. It’s also a key ingredient in Chinese five-spice and some Indian curries. Add a pinch to Bolognese sauce, roasted root vegetables, ratatouille, chicken soup, meat stews or burgers. Most cinnamons in the U.S., including those labeled Korintje, Vietnamese or Saigon, are the cassia variety of the Cinnamomum genus. The Ceylon variety is more common in other parts of the world, sometimes called “true cinnamon.” It has a…

Growing up with the last name “Peartree,” I was often serenaded about a partridge. Imagine my elation when, in adulthood, Peartree elicited a different response, now from proponents of perry, made from fermented pears. “Is that your real last name?” they would ask. Indeed it is, as if by fate. Anyone in the cider world will tell you vehemently that there’s a difference between cider and perry, and they aren’t wrong. Both are made in a similar manner, but different fruits make dramatically different drinks. Not just any pear will do, either. High-acid, high-tannin varieties, some of which are hard as stones, work best to create a well-structured, yet fruity and complex outcome. Here are five to try. OLIVER’S CLASSIC PERRY, $8/16.9 OZ It’s hard to find a more…

♦ Big Peat Islay Blended Malt Scotch Whisky Look for a huge rush of peat smoke and a bitter chocolate finish in this Scotch blended from “a shovelful” of Islay single malts, including Ardbeg, Caol Ila, Bowmore and Port Ellen. ♦ Connemara Peated Single Malt Original Irish Whiskey One of the most intense, peaty Irish single malts, this sipper leads with smooth vanilla sweetness and an elongated, smoldering exit. ♦ Laphroaig 10 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky Islay’s Laphroaig is famed for its intense, peaty profile. There’s plenty of peat on the nose and palate, backed by olive brine, espresso and peppery spice. ♦ Ranger Creek Rimfire Mesquite Smoked Texas Single Malt Whiskey This Texas-made single malt is Schneider’s choice. It’s smoked with mesquite instead of Scottish…

The state of the white-wine union in Spain is relatively strong. The country’s best varietal and blended whites have both made their mark amid a sea of more renowned reds. While there’s room for overall improvement and growth within the category, Spain still produces its share of fine white wines. There are dozens of very good to excellent bottlings made from Albariño, Godello, Verdejo and Viura as well as more obscure varieties like Treixadura, Tempranillo Blanco, Garnacha Blanca and even Palomino, the main grape for Sherry. There are steely wines, leesy wines, oaky wines and even oxidative wines that all show proper balance through bold acidity matched against compelling flavors of fruit, oak or both. It’s these selections that are driving Spain’s white-wine scene forward. The Upshot Spain is a…

The structured, elegant wines of Collio prove that Italy can make serious whites. Located in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, Collio’s ideal growing conditions include hillside vineyards with sharp changes in day and night temperatures that generate complexity and depth of aromas. Soil is another key factor: Layers of marl and sandstone—known locally as ponca—impart salinity and a mineral edge to the wines. Both native and international varieties excel in the area. Friulano is the most widely planted indigenous grape in the denomination. It boasts fullbodied wines with flavors of yellow apple, pear and almond, with some producers fermenting and aging in wood for added complexity. Collio’s ideal growing conditions include hillside vineyards with sharp changes in day and night temperatures. Ribolla Gialla makes crisp, linear wines that offer yellow…

SAINT-ÉMILION 97 Château la Gaffelière 2015 Saint-Émilion. From its privileged position on the sweep of vines leading up to the medieveal city of Saint-Émilion, this estate has made an impressive wine in this vintage. It is rich and concentrated both in its structure and its black fruits. Complex, dark and dense, it can age for many years. Drink from 2026. Millésima USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $79 97 Château Pavie Macquin 2015 Saint-Émilion. This is a beautifully crafted, structured wine. From its ripe black-currant fruits through the acidity and tense tannins, to the full, generous aftertaste, the wine impresses. It has great fruit, balanced acidity and a good potential. Drink from 2025. Millésima USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $92 96 Château Troplong Mondot 2015 Saint-Émil…

ASSYRTICO 92 Gaia Wines 2017 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (Santorini). Citrus, vanilla and spice aromas introduce this Assyrtiko from Santorini. On the palate, it’s complex, with fresh fruit, sea salt and stone notes that finish with a whiff of smoke. Elegant and distinctive of its rare terroir. Athenee Importers. —S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 91 Boutari 2017 Assyrtico (Santorini). Jasmine, orange blossom and citrus scents start this food-friendly white from Santorini. Sea salt, lemon and slate flavors prevail on the palate, feeling crisp and laser-focused. A perfect cohort to grilled fish or chicken. Terlato Wines International. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $35 90 Argyros 2016 Assyrtico (Santorini). The nose of this wine is full of lemon and lime zest, sea salt and stone notes. Its fresh citrus flavors are hemmed in…

CHARDONNAY 95 Hertelendy 2015 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 108. abv: 14.7% Price: $85 94 Calera 2016 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan). For full review see page 109. abv: 14.4% Price: $50 94 Sea Smoke 2015 Monopole Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). The nose on this iconic bottling is tightly wound and reminiscent of springtime, with fresh lily, white melon, Meyer lemon pith and faint butter aromas. It’s zesty and zippy on the palate with chalky flavors, showing Pink Lady apple flesh in the midpalate and a racy grapefruit acidity that carries into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 93 Rusack 2016 Santa Catalina Island Vineyards Chardonnay (California). Very chalky and tight on the nose, this bottling from the extremely challenging vineyard on Catalina Island…

SPARKLING WINES 92 Sparkling Pointe 2008 Brut Séduction (North Fork of Long Island). This top-tier wine from the Long Island sparkling house shows a wonderfully developed nose of toasted almond, citrus cream and brioche. Soft, small-bead bubbles roll across the palate, carrying a concentrated stream of citrus and and salty nut flavors that linger for days on the finish. This méthode Champenoise is a blend of 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier and was aged eight years on the lees. Editors’ Choice. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $68 91 Hermann J. Wiemer 2013 Blanc de Blanc Estate Grown & Grown (Seneca Lake). This zero-dosage méthode Champenoise bottling is warm and inviting on the nose, marked by brioche, lemon custard and pie crust notes. Its smooth perlage boasts…

SONOMA WILDFIRE COTTAGE INITIATIVE Habitat for Humanity of Sonoma County is teaming up with Rebuild Wine Country, a nonprofit organization supported by Wine Enthusiast, to build 8–10 temporary cottages for people whose homes are uninhabitable due to fires in the region. At a June event in Santa Rosa, the two groups unveiled plans, including renderings, for the cottages, which will sit on the Medtronic Fountaingrove campus. HARLEM EATUP! Held in May, this weeklong festival is a chance for consumers to explore the food and drink of the New York City neighborhood. Grand tastings, a marketplace and sitdown dinners bring together star chefs and raise money for charities including Citymeals on Wheels and Harlem Historic Parks. AUCTION NAPA VALLEY The 38th annual auction, organized by the Napa Valley Vintners nonprofit…

The sun is shining, the barbecue is ablaze and you’re thinking this shoulder-season weather couldn’t be any sweeter. It’s time to hit that cooler and whip out…red wine? Well, that’s what’s happening on California’s Central Coast, where some winemakers are making lighter reds that are prime for glugging on still-warm September days. Whether made from grapes like Cinsault and Valdiguié, fermented carbonically to retain fruitiness or aged in steel rather than oak, these so-called “sessionable reds” are a refreshing change of pace from pesky dogma that only whites should be served chilled. Stolpman Vineyards in Santa Barbara County produces a carbonically fermented Sangiovese called Love You Bunches. Peter Stolpman, managing partner at the winery, says wines like these are as joyous as rosés, but with more depth and texture.…

Whether you’re toasting the sunset from a campsite or streaming spaghetti Westerns at home, a new breed of freewheeling whiskeys offers a taste of the great outdoors. These drams bring vanilla and spice, saddle leather and tobacco—like having a glass of the wild West. High West Bourye (Park City, UT) This is Bourbon plus rye in the same bottle. Until recently, High West sourced its distillate in Indiana and aged it in Utah (and has been transparent about that process). This year, however, the company released its first whiskey distilled in-house. It’s delicious, hitting all the right sweet-and-spiced notes. Even better: Travel to the distillery for a tour and bluegrass brunch with expansive mountain views. Governor’s Reserve Taos Lightning Straight Rye Whiskey (Alcalde, NM) KGB Spirits makes this brisk,…

“We have to be very proud of what we produce, of the soil that is giving us these products.” Chef Betty Vázquez knows the value of a good meal. As gastronomic ambassador for the Mexican state of Riviera Nayarit, her job is to spread the word about the western coastal region’s cuisine so that visitors will fall in love with the land through food and drink. Here, the MasterChef Mexico judge tells us about her world. How would you define the cuisine of Nayarit? Before the Spanish, people ate very simply. They would eat what we call quelites—wild edible herbs—they would hunt a little bit, but they were not accustomed to eating much fat, because that came with the Spaniards. With the Spaniards came more variety, because this area…

During the frosty depths of winter, Daniel Acosta keeps close tabs on the thermometer. The founder and head brewer of LIC Beer Project in Queens, New York, Acosta is hoping for a night that’s about 30˚F, and one that doesn’t fluctuate more than 10 degrees in either direction. “The minute the weather is right, we’re ready to get the wort in there,” says Acosta, referring to the soupy grain mixture that becomes beer. “There” is the coolship, a shallow vessel that looks like an oversized baking pan. In it, the wort gets exposed to air, and its teeming microbes and bacteria can settle into the liquid and begin to snack, which creates a beer with a distinct DNA. Most commercial beers are brewed with cultivated yeast strains favored for…

There are few grape varieties as steeped in regal metaphors as Cabernet Sauvignon. That status is deserved, due to its power, structure and ability to express a unique character nearly anywhere it’s planted. But not all Cabernets are created equal. In Napa, the “king of grapes” often rules with muscle and opulence, while in its native home of Bordeaux, its reign has been a long and more complex one. And in Australia, two different and distinctive Cabernet kingdoms have developed: Margaret River and Coonawarra. Margaret River, a windswept slice of Western Australia’s southern coast, produces medium-bodied Cabernets of elegance, complexity and transparency. Almost all wear a crown of briny sea spray, pencil lead, eucalyptus and currant. Coonawarra, a region with nearly 130 years of wine history, rests about halfway…

SAUVIGNON 93 Elena Walch 2016 Vigna Castel Ringberg Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Radiant and savory, this compelling white boasts enticing scents of elderflower, ripe citrus, crushed Alpine herb, tomato leaf and a whiff of tropical fruit. The delicious elegantly structured palate delivers juicy grapefruit, mature white peach, honeydew melon and mineral accompanied by bright acidity. USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $28 92 Girlan 2016 Indra Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Crushed tomato vine, bell pepper and grapefruit aromas follow through to the full-bodied savory palate along with tropical-fruit notes. Fresh acidity gives it balance while hints of tangerine zest and white pepper mark the close. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25 92 Nals Margreid 2016 Gennen Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Pressed wild flower, ripe orchard fruit and…

HERMITAGE 96 Delas Frères 2015 Les Bressards (Hermitage). There’s a striking balance here calibrating bold, almost muscular ripeness against an invigorating granite edge. This wine is plump and full bodied, full of supple blackberry and plum flavors balanced by pert acidity and taut, penetrating tannins. It should be in peak from 2020–2035 but hold further. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $249 94 Delas Frères 2015 Domaine des Tourettes (Hermitage). Enticing hints of sweet spice, black pepper and bacon fat seduce on the nose of this rich but balanced Hermitage. Blackberry and cherry flavors are fresh and juicy but structured by firm tannins and brisk acidity. A polished wine already, it should intensify its savory, smoky complexities well through 2030. Maisons Marques & Domaines…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 93 Shiloh Winery 2014 Secret Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean Hills). This wine’s raspberry and Mediterranean herb aromas lead to dark plum, black currant, anise, violet and iodine flavors. It has nice weight on the palate, with strong yet subtle tannins. The spicy finish is marked by a closing salty note. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 15.3% Price: $39 91 Golan Heights Winery 2014 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). For full review see page 114. Kosher. abv: 14.5% Price: $33 91 Tulip Winery 2016 Just Cabernet Sauvignon (Upper Galilee). Deep garnet in the glass, this wine has a nose of cherry and black tea. Well integrated wild berry, milk chocolate, coffee and orange zest flavors are set in a web of strong but not overpowering tannins.…

MERLOT 92 Leonetti Cellar 2016 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Hailing from Seven Hills, Loess, Leonetti Old Block and Mill Creek Upland vineyards, this is a standout offering of this variety. Its anise, dark fruit, mocha, spice, flower, earth and green pepper aromas lead to focused fruit flavors, with a firm spine of tannin, bright acidity and finish that carries. The structure augurs well for its longevity. Best 2021–2026. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $80 90 J. Bookwalter 2015 Readers Merlot (Columbia Valley). Most of the fruit for this wine comes from a block of Conner-Lee Vineyard planted in 1992. Somewhat light in color, it offers appealing raspberry, chocolate, dried herb and spice aromas and soft, supple fruit flavors, with light savory herb accents from the addition of 10%…

This category has quietly been on the ascent for years, although it rarely seems to capture headlines. But now may be the time for the world to pay closer attention Brazil’s most popular spirit. Like rum, cachaça is distilled from sugarcane. The flavor of white cachaças seems to hover somewhere between the tropical fruit funk of agricole rums and crisp silver rums, laced with lime zest and bright hints of ripe banana or lychee. These silver cachaças are ready for mixing into Daiquiris as well as Brazil’s signature cocktail, the Caipirinha. Producers are also honing in on South American provenance by experimenting with wood varieties that are unique to the region. The barrel-aged bottlings are where the spirit really shines. In general, the flavors are lighter than rum, embracing…

It’s easy to misunderstand pale ales. To start, the style’s name doesn’t exactly excite. Merriam-Webster dictionary defines pale as “deficient in color or intensity of color, not bright or brilliant, feeble, faint or deficient in chroma.” Synonyms include dull, faded, light and washed-out. Innocent drinkers are apt to assume that the resulting product is a light, soft, easy-drinking selection of little intensity, complexity or character. Sounds delicious, right? While Beyond the name, there’s also quite a bit of stylistic variety within the category. This leaves consumers wondering exactly what they’re going to find within any given pale alelabeled bottle. It takes a bit of understanding, and perhaps some brewery research, to determine what one should expect from a brand’s individual pale ale offering. Pale ales cover a wide spectrum…