Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2018 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Last October, the news was filled with horrifying stories of California wine country and the residents who were under siege of wildfires that would destroy thousands of homes and take dozens of lives from north to south. Today, though the memories and impact of those fires continue to loom large, the current news is positive: Wine country is open for business, and California’s 2017 vintage is excellent. We celebrate the rich culture that is California wine, highlighting experimental winemakers, emerging regions and the best travel adventures statewide. In fact, the quality and diversity of California’s vinous offerings has never been better. Sure, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay still reign supreme, but skilled winemakers are mastering unique expressions across the Golden State that ring true to the area’s varied terroirs and…

There’s a different kind of buzz—or rather, fizz—around American wine. This time, it’s coming out of the Northeast. Winemakers there are putting a new spin on lesser-known, cold-hardy grapes like La Crescent, Cayuga, Brianna and Marquette to create distinctive and delicious sparklers. HISTORY AND HYBRIDS In New York’s Finger Lakes region, Winemaker Nathan Kendall and New York City Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier have been making waves with Chëpìka, a line of bubblies using the often frowned-upon Catawba and Delaware grapes. They were attracted by these varieties’ hardiness—and their history. “In the late 1800s, the Finger Lakes’ international reputation was built on sparkling wines made from those grapes,” says Kendall. BOLD TASTEMAKERS In Vermont, the critically acclaimed sparklers made by Deirdre Heekin at La Garagista are exported to Canada and…

London, beware: Midwestern distilleries are cementing their place in gin circles with new and distinctive approaches. Here are a select few, a quartet-sized sampling, of the Middle American operations that are mixing things up with botanicals that shine a light on the region’s terroir. Journeyman Distillery Thinking beyond the botanical characteristics of most gins is at the heart of this Michigan distiller’s Bilberry Black Hearts Barrell-Aged Gin. Juniper, anise, bitter orange and bilberry are some highlights of this spirit, which is aged in white oak barrels. Beyond the acidic and sometimes bitter flavor of the bilberry, the gin’s unequivocal taste and aroma are due to its 100% organic wheat base and the unfiltered water sourced from an underground aquifer in nearby Three Oaks. Death’s Door Spirits Paying homage to…

At his namesake restaurant, James Beard Award winner Greg Vernick celebrates the diversity of the American larder with bold and innovative flavor combinations. This dish, which showcases a range of tastes, textures and temperatures, comes together in minutes with a little advance prep. GRILLED CHICKEN PAILLARD WITH PEACH, OLIVE AND AGED GOUDA Courtesy Greg Vernick, chef/owner, Vernick Food & Drink, Philadelphia 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pan and grill1 small onion, thin-sliced⅛ teaspoon salt12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast1 ripe peach or nectarine, halved and pitted1 tablespoon red wine vinegar1 teaspoon honey1½ cups packed baby arugula½ cup pitted Castel vetrano olives (or other green olives), coarse-chopped2 ounces aged Gouda, crumbled Coat medium, nonstick pan with olive oil and warm over medium-low heat. Add onion and salt.…

Though Austria is largely known for producing outstanding white wines, more than one-third of the country’s vineyards, or nearly 39,000 acres, are planted to red grapes. Most of that is dedicated to indigenous varieties, adapted both to climate and soil. At first glance, their names might look like an unfamiliar barrage of consonants. But grapes such as Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and St. (or Sankt) Laurent, as well as increasingly subtle versions of Pinot Noir, are worthy of your attention. Austrian red wines are perfect matches for the trends of today. They fit that lighter, food-friendly paradigm of reds that offer toned silhouettes, with textures ranging from silky smooth to velvety. Their power is more often expressed aromatically than through assertive tannins or overly firm structures, while bright acidity highlights every…

WHITE WINES JURANÇON SEC 94 Lapeyre 2012 Mantoulan (Jurançon Sec). Spicy, rich and now fully mature this is a fascinating wine from Jean-Bernard Larrieu. Rich in almond and smoky flavors, it has intense acidity and great concentration. Blending Petit Manseng, Petit Courbu and the rare, nearly extinct, Camaralet, this great wine is ready to drink. Charles Neal Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40 92 Lapeyre 2013 Vitatge Vielh (Jurançon Sec). This wine has a gold color and delicious, lightly oxidative character. Although dry, it has a honeyed character, with tight minerality and intense acidity as a contrast. Jean-Bernard Larrieu is a proponent of the local culture so this wine, in the ancient Béarn dialect, means old vintage. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27 90 Lionel…

WHITE WINES DÃO 92 Fontes da Cunha 2015 Munda Encruzado (Dão). The star grape, Encruzado, is in full flow in this ripe wine. Balancing the wood aging with rounded yellow fruits, the wine is both fruity and impressively rich. Still young, it is definitely worth waiting for. Drink from 2019. Ecosur Group, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 92 Global Wines 2014 Paco dos Cunhas Vinha do Contador (Dão). The 60% of Encruzado in the blend makes this smoothly textured, perfumed wine what it is. The grape gives a poised mix of richness and crisp spice and citrus fruits. Textured and tangy, the wine is ready to drink. Best Beverage Corporation. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 90 Fontes da Cunha 2016 Mondeco Branco (Dão). With its blend…

PINOT NOIR 100 Patricia Green Cellars 2016 Estate Vineyard Bonshaw Block Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This 100% Pommard clone wine from a 1990 planting is immensely deep, dark and textural, with complex aromas that instantly draw one in. Its compact berry, plum jam and baking spice scents come with underlying mineral and earth notes. It hits the palate with a powerfully woven matrix of lush flavors: blueberry, plum, cherry, chocolate, butterscotch and toasted coconut. It’s thick, supple and lingering—an ethereal and extraordinary wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $60 95 Prince Hill 2015 Clone 95 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The back story of this wine could fill a novel; most notable is the fact that Oregon pioneer Dick Erath’s Clone 95 is originally from Clos Vougeot cuttings. Here,…

TANNAT 92 Garzón 2016 Single Vineyard Tannat (Uruguay). For full review see page 99. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 90 Bouza 2015 Parcela Única A6 Tannat (Montevideo). The sister cuvée to Bouza’s B6 Tannat, this is rock-solid up front, with heady black olive, balsamic berry and cedar aromas. Its heavy and syrupy on the palate rather than elegant, tasting of prune, blackberry and peppery spice. Its toasty finish includes blackened flavors. Drink through 2023. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $43 90 Garzón 2016 Reserva Tannat (Uruguay). For full review see page 104. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 Marichal 2013 Grand Reserve Tannat (Canelones). This wine’s ripe cassis and prune aromas are loaded with raw wood notes recalling vanilla and pencil lead. It’s tannic and highly acidic,…

While we haven’t yet gotten to the scorching hot summer months, June is a great time to prepare for all of the upcoming season’s outdoor entertaining, and the most appropriate accompanying drinks. Though personal preferences vary, the beer category that’s sure to quench your thirst best is lager. Known for being crisper, cleaner and more refreshing than ales, lagers shouldn’t be misinterpreted as being boring. While they are lighter in body and alcohol than their ale brethren, they are moderate to high in carbonation and offer balanced profiles and subtle characteristics that should be appreciated, not overlooked. The main difference between lagers and ales is that ales are brewed with top-fermenting yeast while lagers are brewed with bottom-fermenting yeast. Lager yeasts are inherently more fragile than ale yeasts, with…

BOISE, IDAHO Surrounded by Idaho’s emerging wine region, Snake River Valley, the surprisingly lively capital of Boise will tempt you with local bottles and great meals. SIOUX FALLS, SOUTH DAKOTA A passionate dining community is gaining steam in South Dakota’s largest city. Visit here for everything from walleye tacos to long-fermented breads. LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY Barbecue and the Bourbon Trail are must-dos in the so-called “Horse Capital of the World,” but this city’s diverse food and drink scene has a lot more to offer, too. BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA A mix of reliable standards and emerging hotspots make Birmingham a place to visit. Check out top stops for eating and drinking, along with a recipe for classic Alabama white sauce. ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO This unsung Southwest destination is on the rise, offering…

Edward Lee “Mac” McDonald grew up on Texas moonshine—his dad made it—but a taste of Burgundy at age 12 made wine his dream. When he was in his 50s, McDonald bottled his first Vision Cellars Pinot Noir, under an African-mask label that he designed. Purchasing his own Sonoma County vineyard, which he named Ms. Lil’s Vineyard for his wife, was a natural step for someone with his precision, high standards and country sensibility. His wines are elegant and bright, though McDonald prefers wearing overalls and a straw hat, spending as much time tending his vines as he can.…

As any devotee of German wines in America can attest, the Yankee love affair with Deutsche weine span a winding history of jubilant ups and sputtering downs. While most Americans are familiar with the country’s most widely planted grape, Riesling, many consumers are just now getting a glimpse into the world of German red wine that has captivated the homeland over the last decade. Most notable is Pinot Noir, or Spätburgunder, as the grape is known there. Germany’s history of Pinot production dates back to Roman times. Since 1990, however, plantings of the grape have doubled, making Germany the third largest producer of Pinot Noir after France and the United States. Today, fine examples are being produced in every wine region in Germany, from the warm, southerly Baden to…

FIANO DI AVELLINO 95 Villa Raiano 2015 Alimata (Fiano di Avellino). Enticing scents of smoke, Spanish broom, acacia, chopped herb and ripe stone fruit slowly take shape on this elegant, compelling white. Savory, structured yet understated, the palate is all about extreme finesse, delivering nectarine, wild herb, tangerine zest and honey alongside bright acidity. A vein of flinty smoky mineral throughout adds depth while toasted hazelnut accents the lingering finish. Wonderful now but will age and evolve for years. Drink through 2025. Siena Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $35 94 Feudi di San Gregorio 2015 Studi Arianello (Fiano di Avellino). Citrus, wild herb and yellow field-flower aromas delicately rise from the glass. Elegant, savory and enveloping, the palate boasts understated finesse, delivering golden apple, lemon zest and…

RIESLING 94 Grosset 2017 Polish Hill Riesling (Clare Valley). From one of Australia’s most lauded Riesling producers, this wine is from the cool, later-ripening 2017 vintage which seems to be a triumph for the region and variety. The delicate nose chimes with the echoes of lime blossoms, peach skins, lavender, talcum powder and a touch of honey (despite being bone dry on the palate). Bright, twinkly acidity is balanced by a slippery yet linear texture and a long, stoney finish. Drink now–2038. Hudson Wine Brokers. Cellar Selection. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $52 92 Kilikanoon 2016 Killerman’s Run Riesling (Clare Valley). With a majority share of the business recently bought by the largest wine com pany in China, Changyu, Kilikanoon’s production is set to double in the coming years. This…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 94 Robert Mondavi 2014 Fumé Blanc (Oakville). A blend of 79% Sauvignon Blanc and 21% Sémillon barrel fermented largely in 60-gallon French oak barrels, this is a well-integrated and substantial offering of sublime texture, length and complexity. Jasmine aromas ride atop fresh, vibrant layers of Meyer lemon and nectarine, a stony mineral element persistent on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 93 Chalk Hill 2016 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Chalk Hill). For full review see page 97. abv: 14.3% Price: $33 93 Sidebar Cellars 2016 Ritchie Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Aged in concrete, this ’wow’ of a wine is nuanced in nutty almond, Meyer lemon and crisp grapefruit. Sleek and smooth, it features bright focused acidity that complements the complex savory fruit and hints…

A product of the South American Cinchona calisaya tree, quinine’s use as a preventive medicine has helped Europeans fight malaria since the 1400s. What began as a world-altering remedy, however, was turned into a commercialized, carbonated drink by 1858—the naturally occurring compound is the key component to tonic water’s bitter taste. While quinine’s concentration in today’s versions is no longer medicinal, its flavor remains essential. Sadly, the beverage became a cloying parody of itself in the 20th century, relying on synthetic quinine and artificial sugars. But the real stuff is back, now boosted by botanicals and other natural additives, and fizzing in a drink near you. Here’s a look at some of the enhancements that complement the quinine and bubbles in modern tonics. SWEETENERS “Quinine by itself is extremely…

WHEN TO GO: Year-round, except when it’s blisteringly hot in the dead of summer or during rare rainstorms. WHAT IT COSTS: For a $65 rental fee, Pedal to the Medal’s fully equipped, fat-tired Cannondale bike comes with helmet, handlebar bag, lock, cold drink, snack, map and route suggestions. It’s yours from 10 am–6 pm, and the outfitter can come pick up the bike from wherever you end up with one quick call. REV YOUR ENGINE: If this all sounds overwhelming, opt for a guided tour from Temecula Electric Bikes. The pedal-free operation offers a two-hour scenic tour ($49) and a four-hour tasting tour ($79), as well as self-guided e-bike rental options. With gently rolling hills, a dry, warm climate and grapevines as far as the eye can see, the…

At Chicago’s Longman & Eagle, the staff sports t-shirts that read “Eat Sleep Whiskey.” They’re a nod to the tavern’s Michelin-starred food and drink menus, as well as its six inn-style rooms directly overhead. But it’s also the house philosophy. This gastropub is all about the brown stuff, hosting “Whiskey Wednesdays” and new-release launch parties. The drink menu changes with each season, so “spring whiskey” and “summer whiskey” cocktails appear as the days grow longer, including this rhubarb-spiked libation, ideal for when the rosy stalks appear at the greenmarket. THE WAY OF THINGS Courtesy Chad Hauge, beverage director, Longman & Eagle, Chicago 1½ ounces Jim Beam Rye or other rye whiskey1½ ounces rhubarb syrup*¾ ounce lime juice3 Floyds Brewing Co. Gumballhead or other hoppy wheat ale, to topRhubarb peel…

Here’s your chance to grab those sunglasses and enjoy the best of beach life, even if your toes are far from the sand. Sourced from resorts and seaside cities around the world, these cocktails make the most of abundant sun and surf. From a frozen rum delight to a cucumber-accented coupe, they’re ideal to sip while you soak in the rays, relax with friends after dark or just dream of your next beachy getaway. What makes an ideal summer cocktail? Bartenders gravitate toward crisp, often unaged spirits like vodka, mezcal, white rum and gin, accented by plenty of fresh fruit and colorful, eye-catching presentations. Other rum styles also take prominence, like spiced selections or aged bottlings with gentle brown-sugar tones. These concoctions are perfect to enjoy by the shore,…

WHITE WINES GRAND CRU CHABLIS 96 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2016 Les Clos Grand Cru Clos des Hospices Dans les Clos (Chablis). A small portion of the Les Clos vineyard once belonged to the charitable Hospices de Chablis. Today, this one acre is vinified apart from this producer’s other Le Clos cuvée. This is a rich wine, hinting at wood aging with intense fruit and acidity. It has a rich texture, a great balance between acidity and the ripe white and citrus fruits. Drink this wine from 2022 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $158 95 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2016 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). This is a rich wine, even from the normally austere Les Clos vineyard. Minerality…

FORTIFIED WINES PEDRO XIMÉNEZ 94 Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oxford 1.970 Pedro Ximénez. For full review see page 96. Editors’ Choice. abv: 17% Price: $21/500 ml 93 Bodegas Barón NV Xixarito Pedro Ximénez. This wine’s fig, date, prune and honey aromas are rich and heady. It has a lush, chewy mouthfeel and honeyed flavors of pastry, chocolate and cream. On the finish, those flavors peel away little by little; it’s like dessert in a glass. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $30 87 Bodegas Yuste NV Aurora Pedro Ximénez. This wine’s raisin and dried plum aromas lose focus and turn grassy. There’s a fine line between syrupy and rich, and this is more of the former. Chocolate is the main flavor, with the finish tasting like…

CABERNET FRANC 91 Structure 2015 Foundation Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Stillwater Creek, Upland, Boushey and Destiny Ridge vineyards comprise equal parts of this 100% varietal wine. Light in color, it has pleasing aromas that suggest dried and fresh herb, along with toasty spice, cherry and moist earth. Full, luscious, pure cherry flavors are followed by a lingering finish. It’s a winner. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $38 91 Structure 2015 Piloti Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This wine is a blend of fruit from Destiny Ridge, Stillwater Creek, Boushey and Upland vineyards. Fragrant aromas of flower, cherry and green herb lead to a focused, flavorful palate. With the oak influence pleasantly dialed back, it’s a superb value. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $27 90 Dusted Valley 2015 Cabernet Franc (Columbia…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 88 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2015 Los Vascos Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This opens with spicy, edgy berry aromas. It’ss solid but tannic on the palate, with olive and roasted berry flavors. The finish is typical of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon: olive and herbal notes and manageable tannins. Esprit du Vin. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 88 San Pedro 2015 1865 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This wine’s olive, grilled meat, roasted plum and road tar aromas are more gritty than fruity. It’s full and chewy on the palate, with soft tannins. With stewed plum and herbal berry flavors, it’s thick and creamy on the finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 87 Aresti 2015 Trisquel Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Valley).…

You already know rum, but do you know rhum? That little “h” makes a big difference: unlike most rums, which are made from molasses, rhum agricole is made from pure sugarcane juice. Though it has a typical rum sweetness, rhum oft en has a distinctive grassy or wild “funky” note, which can read like banana or tropical fruit. The sunny Caribbean island of Martinique is widely regarded as the spiritual home of rhum agricole. The island even obtained an AOC for it in 1996: Just like brandy from France’s Cognac region is the only true Cognac, AOC rhum agricole is produced from sugarcane grown in one of 23 designated municipalities on Martinique. However, Martinique has more than a little competition these days. Damoiseau is made in nearby Guadeloupe, and…