Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2018 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Can you remember the first time you stood in front of an original Botticelli? What about the first time you tasted a perfectly balanced and elegant Riesling? We’re guessing that both were equally electrifying. Appreciating a sublime work of art and savoring an exquisite glass of wine can be similarly transportive and life-changing experiences. Both reflect the rich mind of the artist who envisioned and created them; both offer infinite interpretations and enjoyment from person to person, and moment to moment. The worlds in which these two of life’s most enriching and powerful pleasures are created have similarities, as well. Both require equal amounts of vision and imagination, science and technical craft. Both start off as a simple product, be it paint, stone, grape or vine, and are cajoled…

AVAs Central Delaware Valley (Shared with Pennsylvania) Outer Coastal Plain Warren Hills Renault Winery (purchased in 1864 and still open today) was the first commercial vineyard About 2,000 acres planted Important Grapes Blaufränkisch Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon Chambourcin Chardonnay Pinot Noir Riesling Syrah Wineries to Know Alba Vineyard Beneduce Vineyards Hawk Haven Vineyard & Winery Mount Salem Vineyards Sharrott Winery Unionville Vineyards White Horse Winery William Heritage Working Dog Winery…

Now that lean, nervy California white wines like Albariño and Vermentino are on the upswing, it may seem odd that one of the thickest, most floral varieties could be poised for popularity, too. Viognier is about as cool as cargo shorts, but it has found terroir that suits it well in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. Viognier (Vee-OHN-yay) had a moment in the 1990s, when hundreds of California wineries marketed it. But then? “It went the way of Syrah,” says Charlie Jones, vineyard manager and president of Lava Cap Winery in El Dorado County. “Viognier was going to be the next great variety, but it just never got traction.” THRIVING IN OBSCURITY Ironically, Viognier’s retreat to obscurity may have saved it: It’s mainly just winemakers who really love…

Roughly 1300s–1600s One of Italy’s more well-known styles (hello, Michelangelo), works produced during this period overwhelmingly reflected the idea that man was in control of life and reason. Artists focused on space, shadow and proportion to create realistic portraits, share social-political histories and reproduce daily scenes. Pair With: Brunello di Montalcino While the Renaissance spread all across Europe, the movement’s epicenter was Florence. Full-bodied, expressive and with as elite a reputation as the Renaissance itself, these Tuscan wines of power and finesse are made to exacting standards that could easily be considered a perfectly proportioned profile. High acid and strong tannins play with a sense of depth and character, while a heady aroma and bold earth and fruit tones lend contrast and drama. The Drunkenness of Bacchus (1496-97) by…

Raised in Corning, New York, Amelia Fais Harnas grew up surrounded by Finger Lakes wine and her parents’ artwork—mom painted watercolors, dad did portraits and their friends were artists of all stripes. In 2010, Harnas started using the batik process of wax-resist dyeing to layer “wine stains” into her own watercolor portraits, and the new medium caused quite a stir, leading to commissions for Foreign Affairs magazine, PunchDrink.com, Campo Viejo winery in Spain and many individual works. How did you get into art? When you grow up around artists and all of their artist friends, it’s pretty hard not to just do that. I ended up being a studio assistant for the late Thomas Buechner. He knew everything about old master techniques. I was his studio assistant, I modeled…

Caterina de Renzis Sonnino is responsible for the interface between some of Italy’s most noted wines and the people around the world who drink them. She has designed labels for Allegrini’s San Polo Montalcino, Antinori, Col d’Orcia, Donnafugata, Lodovico Antinori and Tenuta San Guido, among others. It all began when she and her husband took over his family’s historic Castello Sonnino wine and olive oil estate in the Tuscan village of Chianti Montespertoli in 1987, where she is also the cultural conservator. Maintaining the historic family estate’s archives and lasting traditions has given her exposure to the past and resulted in a unique perspective on the present—especially as it pertains to iconic wine brands and how to present such estates through their bottle labels. When did you start designing…

Roughly 1907–1920s A style characterized by an overarching question of space, movement and time, cubism generally abandoned realism and established perspective, opting instead for open forms and new visual exploration. Best illustrated in the works of cubism pioneers Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque, subjects were often shown from various angles and flattened to a two-dimensional appearance, with a pronounced use of geometric lines, shapes and forms. Pair With: White Pinot Noir Cubism is largely about reassessing established form and material presence, so what could be a more fitting tribute to such existential ponderance than how red grapes can make such beautiful, pristine white wines? Occasionally labeled as a blanc de noirs or vin gris, white Pinot Noir is delicate, fresh and bright in acidity, with a subtly tannic texture.…

Grenache is one of the hardiest and most vigorous wine grapes on the planet. It’s a reliable backbone for traditional blends across the Old World, from France’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape to Spain’s Priorat, where it’s called Garnacha. It’s also long served a similar, if less regal, purpose in California. For decades, Central Valley growers pushed Grenache vines to their limits to produce red and pink jug wines of questionable quality. Today, however, vintners on the state’s Central Coast are shedding that baggage. They’ve optimized viticulture and dialed back the tonnage to produce varietal Grenache as nuanced and delicious as top-shelf Pinot Noir—oft en at half the price. Winemakers explore both the rich, ripe side of the grape, which retains acidity deep into the harvest season, as well as lighter, fresher expressions…

If you want to experience the energy, elegance and ageworthy structure that first drew wine lovers and collectors to Brunello di Montalcino decades ago, then 2013 is your vintage. This vintage boasts remarkable aging potential not seen in years. The top wines are stunning, with a radiance missed in many of the muscular, more approachable and higher-alcohol vintages. Brunellos from 2013 will require patience to reach their maximum potential. The best examples are impeccably balanced, with vibrant acidity and firm but noble tannins. Unlike the extremely warm, dry years that have become the norm in Montalcino since the mid-1990s, the 2013 vintage was a blast from the past. It was a cool year that offered an incredibly long and slow growing season, with abundant rainfall in spring and the…

SANCERRE 95 Henri Bourgeois 2015 Jadis (Sancerre). From steeply sloping, well-exposed vineyards in the village of Chavignol, this wine is concentrated and still young. With its intense green and citrus fruits, strong herbal character and spice, it is rich and impressive. This is a wine for further aging, so don’t drink before late 2019. Chambers & Chambers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $60 95 Pascal Jolivet 2015 Le Roc (Sancerre). The flinty soil of this vineyard has given a wine that is intense, steely and mineral in texture. Crisp citrus and gooseberry flavors are enmeshed in this spicy and taut wine. Partial aging in big barrels has added a touch of vanilla while also offering breadth to the palate. Drink from 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.…

CROZES-HERMITAGE 90 Ferraton Père et Fils 2016 La Matiniere (Crozes-Hermitage). Pretty orange blossoms and tangerine skins perfume this fresh, delicately textured Marsanne. Dry and medium bodied in style, it’s a bright, peachy wine with a silken, smooth finish and lingering almond note. Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 89 Delas Frères 2016 Les Launes (Crozes-Hermitage). Spring blossoms, orange and cream mingle from nose to palate in this rounded, lavishly textured white. It’s dry in style but clingy and glycerine, finishing with a warm touch of spice. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $24 89 Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet 2015 Crozes-Hermitage. Dried chamomile and Mediterranean herbs lend a savory tone to fresh lemon and pear flavors in this silky, dry wine. It’s a subtly…

TORO 94 Elias Mora 2014 Descarte (Toro). For full review see page 99. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 93 Elias Mora 2013 Gran (Toro). For full review see page 101. Cellar Selection. abv: 15% Price: $90 92 Muruve 2013 Reserva (Toro). Despite hailing from a cool year, this wine smells a bit cooked and stewed, with surrounding smoke and charred notes helping out. A saturated palate is dense and blocky, and it tastes of baked berry fruits, fig and chocolate. A peppery-tasting finish and smooth tannins offer a nice close; drink through 2022. Holiday Beverage. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 91 Elias Mora 2014 Crianza (Toro). Deep black-fruit aromas are a touch murky and raisiny, with accents of mocha and chocolate. The palate on this Crianza is raw…

WHITE BLENDS 88 Fautor 2016 310 Altitudine Sauvignon Blanc-Aligote (Moldova). This straw colored wine is a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Aligote. The nose opens with aromas of lemon grass, lime and lychee. The palate offers more tropical flavores, leading to a crisp finish. Vin Distributors. —J.J. abv: 13% Price: $14 87 Bostavan 2016 Dor Traminer-Chardonnay (Moldova). This brilliant gold blend has aromas of lemon peel and white flowers, with flavors of green apple and just a hint of honey. Vin Distributors. Best Buy. —J.J. abv: 13% Price: $11 86 Fautor 2016 310 Altitudine Chardonnay-Feteasca Regalã (Moldova). Aromas of citrus blossom, grapefruit pith and river rock lead to flavors of lemon curd and lime zest. The finish is crisp and clean in this blend of Chardonnay and…

MALBEC 94 Luca 2014 Nico Malbec (Mendoza). A dark, smoky nose contains an elegant note of sandalwood that graces core blackberry aromas. This is an extracted but controlled Malbec, with weight as well as balance. Toasty, oaky blackberry flavors are chocolaty, while a powerful finish with unlimited length is well balanced. Drink through 2027. Vine Connections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $125 94 Viña Cobos 2014 Bramare Zingaretti Vineyard Malbec (Uco Valley). Blackberry aromas are ripe to the point that this wine is showing mildly desiccated scents of prune and raisin. A sense of full ripeness is reaffirmed on a saturated, jammy palate. Roasted flavors of blackberry and cassis finish with spice, tea and chocolate notes. Drink through 2027. Paul Hobbs Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price:…

RIESLING 88 Sawtooth 2016 Classic Fly Series Dry Riesling (Snake River Valley). Bright aromas of sweet herb, lime, soda water, white flower and peach are followed by stone-fruit flavors. This seems just a hair off-dry and is lightly spritzy in feel. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 88 Sawtooth 2016 Riesling (Snake River Valley). Aromas of spice, lime leaf, orange rind and flower lead to off-dry peach flavors. It provides a lot of easy-drinking appeal, with dried Nestea flavors on the finish. —S.S. abv: 12.88% Price: $14 86 Colter’s Creek 2016 Estate Bottled Riesling (Lewis-Clark Valley). The aromas are a bit subdued, with notes of green apple, peach, Meyer lemon, herb and cinnamon. It drinks medium sweet, without having the acidity to fully stand it up but still providing enjoyment.…

Here in the Northeast, the snow is finally starting to melt and there’s a light to be seen at the end of that cold, dark winter tunnel. That’s right—it’s almost spring! As temperatures begin to rise and our thoughts turn to warm-weather festivities and outside gatherings with friends and family, it’s only natural to consider appropriate beverage companions. While lagers, session IPAs and pale ales might do the trick, some of the best options for that initial transition period are saisons, also called farmhouse ales. Wonderfully complex, spicy and refreshing, there’s no better way to welcome a new season. A saison, the French word for season, was traditionally brewed in the autumn or winter for consumption by farm workers in late summer during the harvest. While the flavor profile,…

It’s no wonder nasturtiums were a favorite subject of Monet and other Impressionist painters: Their saucer-like leaves look like tiny lily pads pushing away from the earth, their tissue-thin blossoms fiery sunset colors. Today, the intense peppery flavor of the leaves and flowers, akin to watercress, is a favorite among restaurant chefs, who no doubt also appreciate their photogenic quality. At home, substitute the leaves for watercress or arugula, or use the flowers in place of squash blossoms. You can make a pesto with nasturtium leaves instead of basil. Use the flowers to fill omelettes or quesadillas. Minced nasturtiums mixed with butter or mayo are great to melt over grilled fish. Young, smaller plants have a mellower flavor. PAIR IT “Nasturtium has a bright peppery quality, which I love,”…

Whether you enjoy Indian food at a buffet or an elegant restaurant, you’ve probably wondered what to sip with it. The dishes tend to be pretty balanced and might not need the acidity or bitterness that wine or beer can offer. That doesn’t mean, however, that they can’t enhance the dining experience. To prove it, we picked a few typical types of dishes and sought pairings from an esteemed panel of experts: Rich Higgins, a Master Cicerone; Michael Dolinski, sommelier at Junoon in New York City; and Vishvas, bar manager at Rooh in San Francisco. 1. TANDOORI-ROASTED MEATS BEER: Consider a saison, like Saison Dupont, says Higgins. It’s refreshing to cut the fattiness of the meat, but it also offers fruit and spice in its own right. WINE: Reach…

Thanks to decades of overboiled sake at neighborhood sushi joints across America, people tend to think of it as a beverage served hot and cheap. But in Japan, sake is celebrated for its ability to express aromas, flavors and textures at a variety of temperatures. In fact, sake temperature is so important that a lexicon exists just to describe it. At 23°F to 32°F, mizorezake is chilled until a snowy haze of ice forms. Hinatakan is warmed as if by sunlight, to about 86°F to 90°F. Tobikirikan, at around 130°F, is so hot that it might make you jump. Most sake is good at a range of temperatures, but certain styles are more flexible than others. For example, highly aromatic, superpremium ginjo or daiginjo sake is typically served around…

Centuries old, natural wine’s staying power is proven merely through a continued, untouched existence. The world of wine is just as susceptible to trends as art or fashion or anything else in our cultural bubble. So at the turn of January, per usual, about 1,001 articles swept into my social network analyzing top beverage themes from the previous year and predicting the stories that would shape the next 12 months to come. Though I tend to dismiss the annual flood after the first few, I perused a decent chunk, each echoing the one I had just scrolled. This time, one fad among them stuck out, stepped on my toes and sent my senses off. A lot of outlets were flagging natural wines (loosely defined, those made with as little…

Bodegas Norton Barrel Select Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina: Brazilian-born artist Romero Britto’s label celebrates optimism and love via two Pop Art-style wine glasses. Botanica Mary Delany Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa: Botanica licensed the vibrant and lifelike floral collages created by Mary Delaney in the late 18th century. Weingut Klaus Zimmerling, Sachsen, Germany: Winemaker Klaus Zimmerling’s wife, Malgorzata Chodakowska, creates magnificent sculptures that are photographed for each vintage. Umberto Cesari MOMA, Emilia-Romagna, Italy: An acronym for “MyOwnMAsterpiece,” the current MOMA label is an acrylic painting called Futurwine by contest winner Donatella Carollo. Nittardi Casanuova di Nittardi, Chianti Classico, Italy: British Pop artist Joe Tilson painted the grape bunches for the wine’s 2015 label. The estate was also once owned by Michelangelo. Château de la Maltroye Les Grandes Ruchottes,…

Early to mid 1900s Characterized by charged, spirited—sometimes brash—paint splatters or markings and making use of unconventional material, this artistic movement was authentically avant-garde. It celebrated rugged individual freedom and bold expressions, and was also the first distinctly American style to achieve international influence. Pair With: Orange wine These wines, produced by white grapes left to ferment and age with their skins (also called skin-contact white wines), are often made through more natural, ancient methods, and additives are rarely part of the equation. To some, this frames the category as romantic, highly expressive and a bit rough around the edges, much like the artistic movement. Though stylistically individual, the unconventional profile has been known to be funky but fruity, bright but with some tannic structure. Examples can be found…

Street artist and sommelier Joe Iurato honed his two craft s side by side, studying wine and working in the trade while creating street art, stencil work and graffiti. His artwork has since been displayed in public spaces, from New York and New Jersey to Miami and Montreal, all while working in the wine business. Iurato was able to combine his passions in one project when 13th & Third Wines owners’ Gregg and Julie Rothberg asked him to design labels for their inaugural releases. How did you first get interested in wine? When I was 18 years old, I was working in a small, family-run BYOB Italian restaurant. Myself and the two brothers whose family owned the place would save the remnants of wines left behind so we could…

For thousands of years, this enchanting island in the Mediterranean Sea has lured explorers from great civilizations. Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans, and Arabs all contributed to the rich culture that defines Sicily today. This tapestry of people, history, and food, woven tighter by a legacy of grape farming, enticed a wine company from Italyís north to search for land. On a promising site near the sea at Sambuca di Sicilia, Mezzacorona Group built a winery. They invested in the rehabilitation of soils and old vineyards, and planted new ones favoring local grapes. In 2001, they sent Lucio Matricardi to serve as chief winemaker of the fledgling brand called Stemmari. STEMMARI IS SICILIAN WINE. Stemmari bottles terroir. “The incredible natural beauty of this place lies in the equilibrium of sun, wind,…

100 Le Chiuse 2013 Brunello di Montalcino. Dark spice, pipe tobacco, blue flower, crushed herb and wild berry are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this stunningly beautiful, fragrant red. Vibrant and elegant, the radiant palate has great intensity and energy, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, pomegranate, white pepper and star anise set against a backbone of bright acidity and firm, refined tannins. A classic Brunello, with stunning body and superb pedigree, it will age for decades. Drink 2023–2043. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 79 99 Altesino 2013 Montosoli (Brunello di Montal cino). Enticing aromas of ripe berry, chopped herb, new leather, tobacco and a whiff of eucalyptus all mingle together on this gorgeous, vibrant red. The stunning, savory palate…

BOURGUEIL 91 Domaine les Pins 2015 Vieilles Vignes (Bourgueil). This is a perfumed and concentrated wine, with firm tannins softening into the ripe black fruits. The structure will allow the wine to age further and deepen in texture, although for its fruit it could be drunk immediately. Enjoy now or from 2021. T. Elenteny Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V abv: 13% Price: $30 90 Domaine les Pins 2016 Le Clos (Bourgueil). This single-vineyard wine is rich and packed with black currants. Young tannins give the wine structure without taking away from the ripe fruits. It is a well-wrought wine, structured, rich and likely to age well. Drink from 2019. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 90 Domaine les Pins 2015 Le Clos (Bourgueil). This perfumed wine is just…

CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES 90 Boutinot 2014 Les Coteaux Schisteux (Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret). Mouthwatering blackberry and cherry flavors are highlighted by delicate strikes of toast, mocha and cinnamon here. It’s a bold, voluptuous wine but briskly balanced in acidity. The finish is firm and elongated, framed by ripe but grippy tannins. Enjoy now through 2023. Boutinot USA, Inc. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $23 90 Clos du Père Clément 2014 Cuvée Saint Clément (Côtes du Rhône Villages Visan). Plush, juicy black-plum and cherry flavors are offset by granite, ground pepper and fresh herbs in this lively Syrah-based red. It’s full bodied and penetrating yet delicately spiced with warming notes of anise and cocoa. The finish is firm and velvety, marked by persistent, ripe tannins. Drink now through 2030.…

WHITE WINES 90 Domaines Vinsmoselle 2015 Côtes de Grevenmacher Premier Cru Pinot Blanc (Moselle Luxembourgeoise). Hailing from Luxembourg, this Pinot Blanc has aromas of lemon juice and freshly cut pineapple. The palate offers flavors of lemon curd, quince and a touch of vanilla. There’s also a hint of salinity on the soft and smooth finish. Ansay International, LLC. —J.J. abv: 12% Price: $20 89 Domaines Vinsmoselle 2015 Blech-Kleinmacher Naumberg Grand Premier Cru Pinot Gris (Moselle Luxembourgeoise). This Pinot Gris offers aromas of citrus blossom and gooseberry, with flavors of lemon zest, lemon flan and crème caramel. It is balanced on the palate, with a bright but creamy finish. Ansay International, LLC. —J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 89 Domaines Vinsmoselle 2015 Côtes de Grevenmacher Premier Cru Auxerrois (Moselle Luxembourgeoise). The…

WHITE WINES 90 Bulgariana 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Thracian Valley). This straw colored Sauvignon Blanc has aromas of white flowers, green apples and freshly sliced pineapple. On the palate there are flavors of apple pie, honeydew melon and fresh lychee. It is well balanced and has a crisp and clean finish. G&B Importers. Best Buy. —J.J. abv: 13% Price: $12 89 Bulgariana 2016 Thracian Delight White(Thracian Valley). This straw colored blend consists of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Viognier. It offers aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine, green apple and a touch of perfumed talc. On the palate there are flavors of honeydew, cantaloupe and more green apple. It is well balanced and has a smooth finish, with just a touch of lingering ripe fruit. G&B Importers. Best Buy. —J.J. abv: 13% Price:…

RED BLENDS 95 Epoch Estate Wines 2014 Ingenuity (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). For full review see page 98. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.7% Price: $70 95 Villa Creek 2015 Willow Creek Cuvée (Willow Creek). Cris Cherry is on the leading edge of Paso Robles vintners who push the ripe boundaries while remaining in compelling balance, and this blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre is an excellent example. Aromas of blackberry paste, fresh lilacs and hoisin sauce drop into a palate where blueberry and baked black-plum flavors are decorated with cola, sarsaparilla and black-pepper spices. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $50 94 Acaibo 2014 Red (Sonoma County). This is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc, made by Bordeaux winemakers Gonzague…

RIESLING 94 Cave Spring 2016 CSV Cave Spring Vineyard Riesling (Beamsville Bench). Produced from the estate’s oldest vines, this is a worthy reserve. This wine shows impressive depth and intensity, with powerful fruit flavors led by Satsuma orange and Meyer lemon. There’s a touch of spice and an underlying minerality. A sensational value, but just 50 cases were exported to the U.S. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $28 93 Cave Spring 2016 Estate Riesling (Beamsville Bench). For full review see page 101. Cellar Selection. abv: 12% Price: $18 91 Cave Spring 2016 Riesling (Niagara Peninsula). Taut and tangy, this is firmly anchored in crisp, ripe flavors of apple, pear, tangerine and a dash of pineapple. It’s topped with a phenolic texture and drinks like a dream. Editors’ Choice.…

You’re taking a break from emails, scrolling through social media, tapping “like” on stylized, aspirational wine and food photos. It’s a pleasant summer afternoon in Paris—not a bad place to be a freelance writer. Just before you drag yourself away and back to work, an image catches your eye. It’s something you’ve seen before—in the mirror. That’s your face, sketched out in ink, adorning this boutique winemaker’s wares. Label art is an important marketing tool for wine, and for many small producers, labels are an opportunity to express aspects of their personal lives, like their children’s artwork. It’s a well-known fact that many consumers—myself included—often choose wine based on its label. I’ve looked at, admired, critiqued and explained the nuances of probably thousands of labels during my career in…

DRINK IN DESIGN Discover the world’s most beautiful, design-driven wine bars, like Vestigius in Portugal. Offering more than 1,000 pours to be enjoyed among eclectic artwork, the soaring space also provides stunning views of River Tagus. Visit winemag.com/winebardesign for more. STORE YOUR WINE IN STYLE We’re obsessed with this Wine Knot, created by artist Robin Antar, originally carved in stone to achieve an organic look. And there’s more where this came from—see our picks for the best art-inspired accessories at winemag.com/artaccessories JAMES FREY ON ART IN THE BOTTLE We caught up with the founder of Trisaetum Winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley to talk about his passion for photography and painting, and how it influcences his winemaking. Read the exclusive interview at winemag.com/frey If you haven’t subscribed to our podcast,…

This rosy thirst-quencher hails from Marfa, a small city in West Texas that’s renowned for its striking desert scenery and thriving artist community. At The Capri, Chef Rocky Barnette harvests hibiscus blossoms grown on the property to brew for this drink, designed to pair with an intriguing pre-Columbian menu. The cocktail also honors famed Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. Barnette says that she served hibiscus tea (agua de Jamaica) to guests as an offer of friendship after a long journey HIBISCUS MARGARITA Courtesy Rocky Barnette, chef, The Capri, Marfa, TX 1 lemon wedge1 orange wedge2 lime wedges¼ ounce honey syrup (2 parts honey to 1 part hot water)¾ ounce agave syrup1½ ounces hibiscus tea, brewed and cooled2 ounces reposado Tequila1 citrus slice, for garnish In cocktail shaker, muddle citrus with…

Chef Preeti Mistry is the picture of cultural exchange. Born to Indian parents and raised in Ohio, Mistry cut her teeth learning French technique in the U.K. before continent-hopping, competing on Top Chef: Las Vegas and setting up her first restaurant, Juhu Beach Club, near San Francisco. Her debut cookbook, The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook, co-written with Sarah Henry, is a celebration of this fusion, a compendium of Mumbai street food and American sensibilities. This asparagus recipe especially exemplifies Mistry’s eclectic cuisine. ASPARAGUS NESTS WITH FENUGREEK SALSA VERDE Adapted from The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook (Running Press, 2017) by Preeti Mistry and Sarah Henry 2 stalks green garlic1 cup fresh or dried fenugreek leaves, minced½ cup neutral oil, such as sunflower or canola1 cup white wine vinegarSalt and fresh-ground…

Perhaps best known for his iconic treatment of the word “love,” which has been presented in print, sculpture, on postage stamps and beyond, American artist Robert Indiana’s portfolio is wonderfully vast. Spanning decades, his body of work includes assemblage art, Pop Art, silk screens and oversized sculptures, often exploring the American identity and the power of language. His passion for art is coupled with his affection for wine, using it to produce select screen printings and even creating the new LOVE-inspired treatment for “wine” that’s seen on this issue’s cover. Is there a connection between art and the creation of a product like wine? [James Abbott McNeill] Whistler once noted that the price for his work was not based on the time he took making it, but the time…

Roughly 1920s–1940s Borne of a philosophical movement that explores the subconscious, visual Surrealism has a dreamlike quality. Everyday objects are presented in unusual ways and settings, intending to jolt the viewer and reexamine how they think about sexuality, violence and desire, as well as merge the consciousness and subconscious. Pair With: Sherry Two of the most famed Surrealist artists—Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró—are from Spain, so the country’s signature fortified wine has a connection. Beyond that, Sherry has a parallel feeling of something familiar with a twist, while its alcohol level can make objects look just a little off kilter. Cover of View (series V., no. 1, March 1945) by Marcel Duchamp, Philadelphia Museum of Art, Philadelphia…

Best known for his collaborations with Hunter S. Thompson, which lend a twisted portrait to the writer’s persona and an imaginative perspective to many of his works, Ralph Steadman’s decades-long career reaches far beyond that gonzo life. A prolific illustrator and painter, he has created thousands of pieces on a range of subjects, including numerous works inspired by fine beverages. In addition to books like The Grapes of Ralph (Houghton Mifflin, 1996), Still Life with Bottle (Harcourt Brace & Co., 1997) and Untrodden Grapes (Harcourt, 2005), Steadman has partnered with numerous beverage producers on original label art, like Bonny Doon Vineyard in California, Montes in Argentina, Kaesler Wines in Australia and Maryland-based Flying Dog Brewery, among others. A Ralph Steadman Retrospective Exhibition tour is scheduled to begin this year,…

Roughly 1990s–Present Characterized by a progressive combination of materials, methods, concepts and subjects, modern art is not easy to define except in its propensity to challenge traditional boundaries. It is set apart and materialized by the lack of an organizing principle, ideology or “ism”—rather, it’s more grounded in cultural messaging and significance, often dialing in on social subjects like personality, cultural identity, nationality, politics and community. Pair With: South African Pinotage The modern South African wine movement emerged around the same time that this style became popular, following the end of apartheid. Seeing the breakdown of previously established social norms, statuses and regulations, winemakers started a new era of knowledge sharing, international experience and improved techniques and technology. Vintners strive to express the variety’s unique characteristics as well as…

100 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2012 Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d’Oro Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see page 97. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $175 100 Conti Costanti 2012 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see page 97. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $245 99 Le Potazzine 2011 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Captivating scents of pressed violet, dark spice, perfumed berry, new leather and balsamic eucalyptus notes reveal the wine’s elegance and pedigree even before the first sip. The full-bodied palate boasts remarkable finesse and a weightless intensity, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, black raspberry, tobacco and licorice. It’s impeccably balanced, with firm polished tannins and fresh acidity. Hold for even more complexity. Drink 2021–2036. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $225 96 Fuligni…

BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 92 Château de Camarsac 2015 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supérieur). The appellation may be Bordeaux Supérieur but the quality of this wine, owned by a member of the Lurton family, is way beyond that. A rich wine from 30-year-old vines, it’s packed with dense blackberry fruit and ripe tannins. The structure and the concentration of this wine indicate it needs to age. Drink from 2022. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 91 Château de Camarsac 2015 Sélection Vieilles Vignes (Bordeaux Supérieur). Vineyards that slope steeply down from this dramatic medieval castle provide this rich wine. With dense tannins and layers of black currant and acidity, the wine is rich while also elegant, punching well above its appellation. Its structure and acidity mean it needs…

PINOT NOIR 91 Gérard Bertrand 2015 Aigle Royal Pinot Noir (Haute Vallée de l’Aude). This Pinot is sourced from a 61-acre estate located in the northernmost part of the Haute Vallée de l’Aude region, at 820–1,640 feet above sea level, with clay-limestone soils that are well suited to the variety. The wine is powerful and concentrated, with abundant notes of blackberries, black cherry and currant that are hit by ample doses of garrigue and baking spice. The palate is plush and velvety, with medium acidity to lift the ripe fruit tones. Notes of black tea, menthol, licorice and toasted cocoa nib ride out the lingering finish. Drink 2020–2025. USA Wine West. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $80 90 Domaine de la Métairie d’Alon 2015 Solaire Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Haute…

WHITE WINES 91 Chateau Dereszla 2015 Semi-Dry (Tokaji). This blend of 87% Furmint and 13% Yellow Muscat offers aromas of vanilla, lemon zest and white flowers. On the palate there are flavors of lemon pith, honeycomb and more vanilla. Perfectly balanced, with just a touch of residual sugar shining through on the finish. Cognac One, LLC. —J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 91 Oremus 2016 Mandolás Dry (Tokaji). This dry Furmint offers aromas of lemon curd, vanilla and caramel. The well-balanced, bright palate brings flavors of lemon, grapefruit and honeydew melon. Europvin USA. —J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 SWEET WINES 95 Oremus 2008 Aszú 5 Puttonyos (Tokaji). Brilliant amber in the glass, this elegant Tokaji Aszú has bright aromas of citrus blossom and candied lemon peel. On the palate there…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 92 Loveblock 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Loveblock is the label of Erica and Kim Crawford, former owners of one of New Zealand’s most famous labels. Their latest Sauvignon Blanc from organically grown fruit displays subtlety and complexity. The nose is a soft synthesis of peach, cantaloupe, lemon-lime, watermelon rind and warm stone minerality, while the palate is all about texture. It’s tight, structured and chalky, with prickly acidity and a long citrus and mineral finish. Drink now with an array of seafood and cold salad dishes. Terlato Wines International. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $22 91 Yealands 2017 S1 Single Block Sauvignon Blanc (Awatere Valley). This is a flinty, medium to full-bodied wine, bursting with notes of white grapefruit, lime, fresh green beans, matchstick and toasted…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 91 Columbia Crest 2014 Reserve Wautoma Springs Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Brooding aromas of black cherry, herb and barrel spice lead to a full-bodied palate supported by firm, slightly dry tannins. Give it some time in the cellar or a long decant to let the tannins settle. Best after 2021. —S.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $40 90 Hedges 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Aromas of herb, coffee bean, vanilla, blackberry and graphite lead to a restrained palate of well-balanced fruit and barrel flavors. The tannins give a light squeeze. It’s a spot on example of the variety. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 88 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). It seems quite blue fruited for a Cabernet, with aromas and flavors of plum…

Access to a good bottle of reposado tequila presents a happy dilemma: Should you sip it straight, or mix it into cocktails? Luckily, it works beautifully either way. Reposado or “rested” Tequila—aged in oak barrels from two months to one year—offers a balanced blend of sprightly pepper and citrus notes tempered by mellow, toasty vanilla. Wine lovers will want to keep an eye on reposados that spend some time in former wine casks. Those in the sipping camp may wonder, where do all those complex flavors come from? The sun-baked agave plant is the critical ingredient of tequila, yielding honey and piquant peppery notes, yet the barrels are a key component, too. Abundant ex-Bourbon barrels are frequently used to impart toasty vanilla and rich caramel notes, however, wine lovers…