Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2018 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

THE SUN WINE & FOOD FEST Fine wine and gourmet food were a sure bet at the Mohegan Sun casino in Uncasville, Connecticut, in January. A Vintage Cru tasting, Bourbon bash and celebrity dine-around were among the attractions at the event. COCHON555 This nose-to-tail culinary competition made its way to New York City for the 10th year in January. A panel of judges, including W.E. Digital Managing Editor Marina Vataj, were faced with the challenge of choosing the best extravagant pork dish and pour. NAPLES WINTER WINE FESTIVAL Vintner dinners, auctions and musical performances were all part of the fun at this January event in Naples, Florida. The soul of it, though, is the money raised for the Naples Children and Education Foundation— $15.2 million this year.…

Annual Economic Impact $ 1.97 billion Number of Wineries 186 American Viticultural Areas Yadkin Valley Swan Creek Haw River Valley Upper Hiwassee Highlands Appalachian High Country Acres Under Vine 2,300 among 525 individually owned vineyards Leading Wineries Duplin Winery Cypress Bend Vineyards Lu Mil Vineyards Wineries to Watch Addison Farms Vineyard Biltmore Estate Winery Burntshirt Vineyards Cellar 4201 Childress Vineyards Grove Winery Herrera Vineyards JOLO Winery & Vineyards Jones von Drehle Vineyards & Winery Raffaldini Vineyards & Winery RayLen Vineyards & Winery Sanctuary Vineyards Shelton Vineyards Silver Fork Winery Surry Cellars Westbend Winery and Brewery Most Popular Grapes Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin, Petit Verdot…

As a worldwide leader in the production of fine wines and liqueurs, Italy hasn’t been known for beer. But the last decade has seen an industry boom, thanks to trailblazing breweries like Baladin and Birrificio del Ducato. Even stateside operations like Dogfish Head Brewery and Stone Brewing have collaborated with Italian counterparts. Much like American producers, brewers of birra artigianale often draw inspiration from Belgian and English beer styles, and add their own special touches. They utilize local ingredients like ancient grains, spices and seasonal fruits to create beers that will surely make you say grazie. LOVERBEER NEBIULIN-A Created as an ode to spontaneously fermented Belgian beer, this three-vintage blend is made with wild yeast and juice from a popular Piedmont export: Nebbiolo grapes. The result is a brightly…

Come spring, asparagus takes center stage in restaurant menus and produce markets. It’s especially beloved in Germany, Austria and Alsace, where the arrival of these tasty spears is hotly anticipated—special menus featuring twists on classic tastes are created in their honor. Freshness is tantamount, so be sure to eat asparagus the day you buy it. Grown without exposure to sunlight, some stalks stay white, while those bathed in sunshine synthesize chlorophyll and go green. PAIR IT Asparagus is often touted as a tricky match with wine, but these sommeliers have it covered: For asparagus served in a cold salad with vinaigrette, Serge Dubs of Auberge de l’Ill in Alsace suggests dry Muscat. Andreas Weber, who works at the Deidesheimer Hof in Deidesheim, Germany, proposes dry Silvaner. The delicate aromatics…

At Tavernetta, a new restaurant in Denver, Ian Wortham’s menu features twists on classics found all across Italy. One region he draws from is Calabria, famous for its chile peppers and the signature pesto that contains them. Wortham’s sweet-hot version incorporates sun-dried tomatoes, and is a revelatory alternative to the expected basil combination. WINE PAIRING I Vigneri di Salvo Foti 2016 Rosso (Etna) “This is a delicious, juicy and cherry-fruited Nerello Mascalese-based blend from the northern slopes of Etna, made by the legendary winemaker and natural winemaking pioneer, Salvo Foti,” says Carlin Karr, wine director at Tavernetta. “The fruitful attack of the wine is balanced by minerality and fine tannins, which help balance the subtle heat of the Calabrian pesto.” RIGATONI WITH PESTO CALABRESE, PANCETTA AND PISTACHIO RIGATONI WITH…

Rising out of the Adriatic Sea, romantic Venice is one of the most visited cities in the world, full of beautiful squares, lovely palaces and unforgettable gondola rides down enchanting canals. Many assume it would be difficult to dine well in such a tourist-packed place, but the city offers fantastic options with a clear focus on fresh, local ingredients—everything from simple eateries serving savory bites washed down with Prosecco to elegant restaurants that pair gourmet meals with some of Italy’s top bottlings. Here’s your guide to serenity: the best places to wine and dine in the city known as La Serenissima. Enoteche (Wine Bars) 1 Osteria I Rusteghi It may not be easy to find, but this small, vibrant wine bar/bistro near the Rialto is definitely worth the effort.…

In 2011, Irina Santiago-Brown was a PhD candidate who began working with The McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Association as part of her studies. She was brought on to help develop a system of sustainability for the region, a project that would consume nearly four years of her life. But the Brazilian expat could hardly have guessed back then that she’d go on to design and implement Australia’s first sustainability program. Called Sustainable Australia Winegrowing (SAW), a 2017 report from the McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Association revealed that the program now certifies 65% of McLaren Vale’s wine grapes and is used in five other regions across the country. Building upon other New World sustainability programs, SAW focuses not only on the environment, but also on the…

The world of eau de vie, French for “water of life,” was once a sleepy category, relegated to the back corner of the bar. But it’s wide awake now. “For me, eau de vie is a really exciting spirit,” says Collin Moody, general manager at Chicago’s Income Tax Bar. He’s curated a selection of eaux made by small grower-producers. “It’s really about preserving fruits and a sense of place.” Most water-clear eau is unaged fruit brandy, as tradition dictates. It’s being made across the world in a wide variety of styles, from plum slivovitz to cherry-based kirsch, but not always just from fruit: There’s an American-made Douglas Fir brandy that’s like a breath of fresh forest air. At home, Moody often serves the spirit neat after dinner parties. “It…

CABERNET SAUVINON 93 Hayotzer 2014 Winemaker’s Choice Virtuoso Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). This deep violet-red colored wine has a nose of cassis, lavender and anise. It is surprisingly soft on first sip, with tannins that gradually increase in power while showcasing flavors of black cherry, dark plum, cranberry, fennel bulb and a touch of mint. The slightly grippy finish offers pronounced notes of cherry and orange zest. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. — M.D. abv: 13.6% Price: $ 25 93 Recanati 2014 Reserve David Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). For full review see page 87. Kosher. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $ 30 92 Dalton 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). This wine offers aromas of black, cherry, raspberry and violet. The tannins are barely noticeable at first, slowly building…

PAUILLAC 100 Château Lafite Rothschild 2015 Pauillac. This is a great vintage from Lafite. The profile is rich in feel, with a seriously firm tannic structure. Solid, complex and with great authority, this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wine, is impressively dense in dark-fruit tones. It will age for many years. Drink from 2027, although that would almost be too soon. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ NA 98 Château Mouton Rothschild 2015 Pauillac. This is a hugely opulent wine, packed with-black fruits, rich tannins and great concentration. It is a gorgeous wine that’s full of potential, with the dense, dark core showing how well this wine will age. Drink this complex wine from 2027. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ NA 97 Château Latour 2014 Pauillac. The…

FRANCIACORTA ZERO DOSAGE / BRUT NATURE 96 Ca’ del Bosco 2008 Annamaria Clementi Dosage Zero Riserva (Franciacorta). Starting with the 2008 vintage, the firm’s flagship bottling is now made without added dosage. It opens with aromas of yellow stone fruit, brioche and crushed stone that carry over to the elegantly structured palate, along with tangy nectarine and bright acidity. A refined perlage gives it a weightless concentration while a savory mineral note lingers on the bone-dry finish. In a word, it’s gorgeous. Santa Margherita USA. — K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 90 95 Barone Pizzini 2013 Naturae (Franciacorta). This dazzling sparkler hits all the right marks. It opens with heady aromas of citrus, bread crust and lemon pastry while the vibrant palate delivers juicy tangerine, Rennet apple and an…

CHARDONNAY 91 Handpicked 2016 Version Chardonnay (Victoria). This brand, which employs an army of winemakers from around the world to make dozens of wines under the Handpicked label, has succeeded in crafting a delicious, delicate Chard at an affordable price. Attractive notes of red apple peels and blossoms are backed by a hint of baking spice and a copper penny tang. The palate is light and fresh, with a tight, chalky texture and a long ginger and apple-peel finish. One to sip with salads and seafood. American Spirits Exchange Ltd. Best Buy. — C.P. abv: 13% Price: $ 15 91 Yering Station 2016 Little Yering Chardonnay (Victoria). Ticking all the right Chardonnay boxes, this classy wine balances grilled peach characters with buttered toast and nuts, flowing seamlessly into a…

CHARDONNAY 92 Alloro 2015 Estate Chardonnay (Chehalem Mountains). All Dijon clones from the Alloro vineyard, this tightly wound effort mixes tree-fruit flesh and skin flavors in a compact balanced wine with some good years of life ahead. There’s a pleasing nuttiness resonating through the finish, from a small percentage that was fermented in new French oak. Give it an extra year or two in bottle and it should open up nicely. — P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $ 34 92 Ayoub 2016 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Rich, ripe and downright succulent, this offers pinpoint fruit flavors of grapefruit, apple and melon, with a broad streak of vanilla cream. The length is a bit surprising, sneaking up as the wine breathes open. Though just 10% was aged in new barrels, there is…

MARQUETTE 87 Shelburne 2014 Reserve Marquette (Vermont). Smoky, earthy aromas are cloaked by red- and black-fruit intensity on the nose. The palate brings ripe berry flavors boosted by leather, cedar and allspice, while the tannins are grippy and spicy but cut through by a vein of acidity. Tangy currant and allspice tones carry through the finish. — F.A. abv: 14% Price: $ 29 86 Shelburne 2015 Marquette (Vermont). Smoky roast beef aromas mingle with peppercorns and black cherries on the foxy nose. The palate shows ripe cherry and cranberry, alongside cedar, pepper and sweet baking spices. The tannins provide an appealing grip, with balanced acidity and good structure. The finish kicks off on peppery spice then softens into raspberries. — F.A. abv: 14% Price: $ 19 85 Shelburne 2015…

CHARDONNAY 88 Early Mountain 2015 Quaker Run Vineyard Chardonnay (Virginia). Tones of cereal and brioche ride over layers of lemon curd, overripe yellow apples and nuts. Mouthwatering acidity offers a lift to the weight, while the finish is long and racy. — C.D. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 38 88 Sunset Hills 2016 Estate Vineyard One Chardonnay (Middleburg). Notes of wet stone, Pilsner and yeast meet with fresher elements of lemon, white pepper and honeydew in this Chardonnay. Sprightly acidity lends itself well to the long, energetic finish. — C.D. abv: 13% Price: $ 28 86 Sunset Hills 2016 Chardonnay (Shenandoah Valley). This Chardonnay is reminiscent of a fruit salad, with lush aromas and flavors of lemon, banana, pineapple, honeydew and peach yogurt. Mild acidity keeps everything in check and…

While it’s generally beneficial to present a clearly defined style on beer labels, there are exceptions—styles that might cause a bit more confusion. One such style is so-called “blonde” ale. Perhaps a creation of the American craft category, blonde ales are generally crisp, clean and refreshing pours that are perfect for warm-weather enjoyment, with a brilliant pale yellow to deep gold color. They are usually all-malt brews that are a step up from lagers in terms of body, bitterness and fruit profile, though they are not considered assertive in any of those elements. Then there are tripels. While consumers might understand what to expect from certain “double” or “imperial” selections—that “double” means two times the overall flavor, strength and intensity of profile—what happens when people come across “tripel?” Do…

On the steep, terraced vineyards of southeastern Roussillon in France, near the border with Spain, grapes are harvested by hand to produce Banyuls dessert wines. Strong winds, hot Mediterranean sun and relatively low rainfall contribute to their intense character, but it’s the winemaking process that defines them. WINE PICKS ♦ Gerard Bertrand 1951 Legend Vintage Banyuls ♦ M. Chapoutier 2015 Banyuls Rimage ♦ Les Clos de Paulilles 2012 Banyuls Traditionnel From Mutage to Maceration A handful of grape varieties are used to produce Banyuls, but the most important is Grenache, lefton the vine until the grapes are shriveled by the sun. When the fermenting must reaches 5–10% alcohol, mutage takes place. This method, devised in the 13th century, stops fermentation by adding a neutral grape-based spirit. Port is produced…

BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST The wine world is reliant on the generosity of nature for its very existence, so, in return, a fair share of winemakers and business owners work to protect the environment. Farms and wineries around the globe strive for various levels of eco-minded achievements and certifications. They’re cognizant of their social responsibilities to keep the earth as healthy and fruitful a place as possible for continued success and long-term health. While the effort made by individual wineries to keep an eye on their environmental footprint is undoubtedly commendable, the strongest models are those that seek something more. These “green gurus” take their organic, biodynamic or sustainable practices beyond their own cellar doors, and have the ability to influence entire communities of growers, or even…

“We must stop polluting our earth, and we must be careful not to pollute our communities.” There are organic, sustainable and environmentally minded winemakers, and then there’s Robert Eden. A Languedoc-estate owner turned green-wine visionary, no one in France can compete with him when it comes to pushing eco-conscious boundaries and changing the country’s winemaking landscape. When Eden purchased the 79-acre, Minervois-based Château Maris estate with business partner Kevin Parker in 1997, he knew that he wanted to work the land as naturally as possible, without the use of chemicals or pesticides. After some experimentation with biodynamic preparations, he saw its effect on soil composition and decided to convert the entire property. It soon became the first estate in the Minervois La Livinière Appellation d’Origine Protégee (AOP) to be…

The Jura’s red wines can be made from Pinot Noir as an alternative to the local Poulsard and Trousseau varieties, and the grape’s ability to thrive here should be expected: On a clear day, you can see the slope of the Côte d’Or of Burgundy from the Jura, and some similarities can be drawn between the regions. Pinot Noir has been in the Jura since cuttings were first brought across the Saône valley from Burgundy during the Middle Ages. The region’s style is perfumed and crisper than Burgundy bottlings, a reflection of a cooler climate with sharp winters and shorter summers. Traditionally, the grape was blended with Poulsard and Trousseau, but now it’s also used to produce entirely varietal wines. Pinot Noir is also found in the Vin de…

RIESLING SPÄTLESE 93 Maximin Grünhäuser 2016 Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Grosse Lage (Mosel). Layers of sweet, sun-kissed honeydew, grapefruit and tangerine flood the palate of this forward yet nuanced wine. There’s a delightful cling of honey and nectar on the midpalate but it’s counterbalanced neatly by strikes of lemon-lime acidity and an earthen minerality that lingers long on the finish. Drinks beautifully already but should improve further through 2035. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. — A.I. abv: 7% Price: $ 40 92 Dr. Hermann 2016 Erdener Herzlei Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Hints of caramelized sugar, pollen and orange peel glaze this succulent, lip-smacking Riesling. Its delicate sweetness is bolstered by sunny squirts of orange and yellow peach, but balanced neatly against a solid backbone of lime acidity. A deeply penetrating spätlese…

RED WINES TORO 93 Teso La Monja 2014 Alabaster (Toro). In most years, Alabaster blows you away with its power, concentration and depth of flavors. In 2014, a mediocre year in much of Northern Spain, this is still excellent. Blackberry, cassis and creosote aromas are toasty, while this is flush in feel and severely tannic. Blackberry, mocha and coffee flavors finish with creamy oak and chocolate notes along with meaty tannins. Only 100 cases produced; drink through 2030. Fine Estates From Spain. — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 235 91 Maurodos 2014 San Román (Toro). This wine shows a heady, toasty nose of black-fruit aromas, along with maple, spice and heat notes. Spiced blackberry and cassis flavors are typical of this Tinta de Toro, however a palate that’s rough…

VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 94 Boscarelli 2013 Il Nocio (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Made entirely with Sangiovese, this full-bodied red opens with aromas of wild berry, exotic spice, aromatic herb and a whiff of fragrant blue flower. It’s elegant and structured, with a youthful tension that underscores juicy wild cherry, raspberry compote, cinnamon and a hint of pipe tobacco. Fresh acidity lends balance while fine-grained tannins provide polished support. It’s already tempting but will develop even more complexity with cellaring. Drink now–2033. Empson USA Ltd. Cellar Selection. — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 113 94 Boscarelli 2013 Sotto Casa (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). Fragrant blue flower, wild herb, pipe tobacco and black-plum aromas waft out of the glass. Elegant and concentrated, the smooth delicious palate delivers juicy black cherry,…

SHIRAZ / SYRAH 91 Mullineux 2015 Syrah (Swartland). This wine exhibits superb interplay between just-ripe fruit character and earthy, spicy tones. Notes of tree bark, fresh turned soil, cocoa nib and olive mingle harmoniously with fruity tones of black cherry and plum. A sanguine accent dances across the silky, medium-bodied palate, while a peppery kick unfolds on the lingering close. Drink now–2023. Skurnik Wines, Inc. — L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 40 90 Boschkloof 2015 Sons of Sugarland Syrah (Stellenbosch). Bramble, licorice root and fresh fynbos lead the nose of this attractive wine, grounded by bold black-cherry and boysenberry fruit at its core. Firmly structured tannins lend serious grip and texture, while fruity flavors transition into waves of olive tapenade, cured meat and peppery spice on the enduring finish.…

CHARDONNAY 91 Efeste 2015 Lola Evergreen Vineyard Chardonnay (Ancient Lakes). The aromas pop, with notes of clarified butter, pineapple, candlewax, corn silk, apricot and mango. The palate is full of stone and tropical fruit flavors that bring a big yum factor. Aromas and flavors are ripe, like the vintage this wine comes from. Editors’ Choice. — S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 35 90 Barons 2016 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Fruit for this wine comes from Block Two of Gamache Vineyard. Aged in a mixture of stainless steel and French oak (30% new), the aromas offer notes of hay, corn silk, lees and cut yellow apple along with peach. Flavors are broad and leesy, gliding on the finish. — S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 35 88 Bledsoe 2016 Elizabeth Chardonnay (Walla…

Kava, the national drink of Fiji, is a nonalcoholic beverage that’s steeped in tradition. It’s served to welcome an unknown to the village, as well as at weddings, funerals, graduations and miles tone birthdays. As the sun sets over the island, community members prepare the drink in an enormous wooden bowl. Fijian tradition dictates to clap once before you accept a cup of kava from the chief. After you finish the drink, clap three more times. Getting to those triple claps can pose a challenge to the uninitiated: Kava’s a bit of an acquired taste, with earthy, chalky and woody pine flavors that can lend a slight numbing of the tongue. That tingling of the taste buds soon gives way to a mellow serenity caused by anxiety-reducing kavalactone compounds.…

In his book Godforsaken Grapes (Abrams Press, April 2018), Jason Wilson journeys into the world of obscure and underappreciated wines. We asked him what he learned about hard-to-find varieties along the way. What does obscurity even mean in the current wine world? There are nearly 1,400 wine grapes in the world, yet almost 80% of wine is made from 20 grapes. In reality, all but a handful of wine grapes would be “obscure.” For wine geeks and sommeliers, maybe Verdesse from Isère, or Hungarian Juhfark, or Kisi from the Republic of Georgia, is not so obscure. I recently overheard a somm say, “Yeah, I’m kinda over Mondeuse these days.” But honestly, that’s not representative of 99% of wine drinkers. I’m not interested in obscurity for obscurity’s sake. I wanted…

Combining an aperitif and sparkling wine creates an effervescent, easy-drinking cocktail. This charming, rosy-hued sipper appears on the brunch menu at Wakefield Bar in Seattle, where it makes a pleasing and equally sparkling alternative to the same old Mimosas. SUNSHINE SIPPER Courtesy Alexis Taladay, proprietor/bartender, Wakefield Bar, Seattle 1 ounce Cocchi Aperitivo Americano½ ounce lemon juice2–3 dashes Scrappy’s Lavender BittersSparkling dry roséThin piece of lemon peel (for garnish) In cocktail shaker, combine first three ingredients with ice. Shake well, and strain into Champagne flute. Top with sparkling rosé. Garnish with lemon peel. What’s Cocchi Aperitivo Americano? Pronounced COKE-y, Cocchi Aperitivo Americano is an Italian apéritif wine that’s ideal to sip on its own or mix into cocktails. Created in Piedmont by Giulio Cocchi in 1891, the base of this…

Steve McIntyre comes from a citrus and avocado family in Southern California’s Ventura County, but he staked his own claim in the vineyards of Monterey to the north, where he’s farmed since 1983. About a decade later, McIntyre started his own company, Monterey Pacific, an agricultural consulting business. He also helped establish the Vineyard Team, a group of Central Coast growers focused on issues like sustainability. In 1996, the group took a cue from a self-assessment program created by Swiss farmers and developed a metric-based evaluation called the Positive Points System (PPS) to analyze the sustainability of vineyard practices. “It started to become apparent that this could have a life of its own, and that sustainability was starting to be bantered about,” says McIntyre, who points out that big-box…

As president of Sonoma County Winegrowers, Karissa Kruse represents more than 1,800 grape growers across the diverse vastness that is Sonoma County. In addition to monthly “truck talks,” where she speaks about everything from pruning practices to water conservation, it’s Kruse who insists that area growers embrace sustainability. In 2014, the organization made a commitment to be certified 100% sustainable within the next five years. “As we kick off 2018, more than 90% of our vineyards are part of the Sonoma County Sustainable initiative, far exceeding my expectations in terms of timing and strength of commitment for a voluntary program,” says Kruse. “Grape growers throughout Sonoma County have embraced sustainable farming and are collaborating on best management practices and ways to continuously improve on their farming, employment and business…

There’s more Pinot Noir in Champagne than Burgundy. It’s the essential partner of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier in the classic blends of the region. Occasionally, Pinot Noir can form the entire base wine of a Champagne. The classic blend, and especially blends from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, are repeated in many other French traditional-method sparkling wines. You can find Pinot Noir in blends from Saumur in the Loire and Châtillon-en-Diois in the Drôme Valley. In Limoux, it can be up to 10% of a blend in Crémant de Limoux. And back in its homeland, it also appears as a part of the blend of Crémant de Bourgogne, some of which have an impressive likeness to Champagne. Why is Pinot Noir so vital to these bottlings? Generally speaking, sparklers are…

The tradition of winemaking has deep roots in Israel, evidenced by the countless mentions of wine in the Torah and Old Testament, as well as the country’s many ruins of 2,000-year-old wineries. Today, this tiny Mediterranean country produces a wide range of white, rosé and red wines. The vast majority of wine made in Israel is kosher, with a good portion of it sold during the spring Passover season. In order for wine to be certified kosher, it can only be handled by Sabbath-observant Jews from the time the grapes arrive at the winery until the wine is produced and bottled. A non-Jewish winemaker may be involved but cannot handle the wine in tank or barrel. Kosher wines also cannot have any animal-based additives. The two main wine-producing regions…

SYLVANER 92 Domaine Roland Schmitt 2016 Grand A du Petit Léon Sylvaner (Alsace). The nose offers lovely touches of stone, fern and white pepper, with the freshness of green apple. There is something pristine about this wine, something light, clear and utterly moreish. The finish is clean and dry. Beaune Imports. — A.K. abv: 13% Price: $ 18 92 René Muré 2016 Cuvée Oscar Sylvaner (Alsace). Zesty, aromatic notes of lemon and tangerine carry the nose. The palate then bursts forth with ripe citrus: tangerine, orange and mandarin. This off-dry version of Sylvaner may be unusual but it is a triumph of balance. The concentrated, zesty freshness of citrus is countered by the ripeness of the fruit on a very light, fresh, concentrated and compelling palate. This is intriguing…

RED WINES DÃO 92 Niepoort 2015 Conciso (Dão). This is the third release of a wine from a new venture by Niepoort into the Dâo region. Made from 100-yearold vines, it celebrates two local grapes, Baga and Jaen, which dominate the blend. It is structured, firm and has intense fruit as well as tannins. The wine is young, fruity, elegant and has a good future. Drink from 2021. Martine’s Wines. — R.V. abv: NA Price: $ 34 90 Seacampo 2014 Casa Américo Jaen (Dão). Also known as Mencia in Spain, this grape has established itself in the Dão region in Portugal. It makes a soft wine, low in acidity while rich in black fruits. It has plenty of almost-sweet fruit, ripe tannins and a rounded, smooth aftertaste. Drink now.…

NERO DI TROIA 92 Rivera 2012 Puer Apuliae Nero di Troia (Castel del Monte). Named after the “Son of Apulia,” Frederick II of Swabia—the 13th century Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire who made his summer home the Castel del Monte, for which the DOCG is now named—this is a pure expression of the Nero di Troia variety. Aromas of dark cherries, spiced bramble berries, old leather and anise permeate the nose and carry through to a tightly woven, grippy palate. There’s wonderful tension, depth and complexity to this medium-bodied wine which needs a few years to soften its tannic edge. Drink from 2020. Montcalm Wine Importers. — A.P. abv: 14% Price: $ 55 87 Giancarlo Ceci 2014 Parco Marano Nero di Troia (Castel del Monte). High-toned cherry aromas…

CHARDONNAY 94 Blue Rock 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a lovely light-bodied wine with serious intent and sophistication. Pear puree and apple skin mingle effortlessly along a plane of gravelly rocky mineral complexity that will show well with a variety of meals. — V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 48 94 Whitcraft 2016 Presqu’ile Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Fresh Asian pear, lemon blossoms and honeysuckle make for an enjoyable nose on this bottling from a very coastally influenced vineyard just east of Santa Maria. The acidity on the palate is super racy and vibrant, carrying flavors of chalk and lime pith that sizzle long and deep. — M.K. abv: 12.27% Price: $ 50 93 Grgich Hills 2014 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 86.…

RIESLING 87 St. Julian 2016 Reserve Late Harvest Riesling (Lake Michigan Shore). For full review see page 94. abv: 12% Price: $ 13 86 Dablon 2016 Riesling (Lake Michigan Shore). The nose carries aromas of ruby grapefruit alongside honeydew melon. Bright lemon-lime acidity enlivens flavors of key lime and gooseberry on the grassy palate. Hints of bitter lime creep on the finish. — F.A. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 24 85 Dablon 2016 Sweet Riesling (Lake Michigan Shore). Mild aromas of green apple and lemon have a grassy undercurrent, yet the palate is surprisingly lush in flavors of canned peach and mandarin. The finish is rubbery, with notes of lime pith and orange-blossom honey. — F.A. abv: 12.3% Price: $ 20…

CHARDONNAY 88 William Heritage 2016 Pumpkin Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Outer Coastal Plain). This Chardonnay opens with alluring aromas of vanilla, lemon curd, dried apricot and pie crust. Lemon-lime acidity pulls together flavors of ripe peach and vanilla, with a hint of wood spice. Lime peel and spice linger on the fruity finish. — F.A. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 35 87 William Heritage 2016 Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Outer Coastal Plain). Oaky vanilla and sweet spice overpower apricot and lemon aromas on the nose. A rich vanilla tone leads flavors of mango, apricot, and mandarin on the palate. The mouthfeel is soft, with balancing acidity and a clean vanilla and apricot finish. — F.A. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 35 87 William Heritage 2016 Unoaked Chardonnay (Outer Coastal Plain). Fresh lemon juice…

Calling all brandy-lovers: this month’s focus is on Italy’s iconic spirit, grappa—specifically barrel-aged versions. Since grappa is made from Italian grapes, you may see some grapes used from well-known, wine-producing areas, such as Prosecco, Chianti Classico and Valpolicella. Just as Cognac and Tequila have terms that signify barrel aging, grappa does as well, although these descriptors don’t seem to be used across the board and can take some effort to untangle. Precise legal designations include “affinata in legno” (refined in wood), meaning the grappa has been aged for less than one year; “vecchia” or “invecchiata” (old or aged), denoting wood-aging for at least 12 months; and “riserva” or “stravecchia” (reserve or very old), indicating wood-aging for at least 18 months. Notice that we’re talking about wood aged— not oak…

Mine is a loud Long Island family that communicates almost exclusively through mockery—of each other and anyone lucky enough to enter our orbit. There are a couple of people in the world, though, whom we all love without irony. One of them is Ina Garten, and the other is a Tuscan winemaker named Sergio Sardelli. During the summer of 2016, aunts, uncles, cousins and more all traveled to Italy for two weeks of food, wine and sightseeing. A lovely and patient woman named Sylvia Gualengi organized tours of wineries and goat farms, and she put up with the Italian-Americans in tow who instigated sing-alongs on bus rides through the region’s rolling hills. Each winemaker was a fascinating character, but when Sergio, of Il Cellese, emerged from his barrel room,…