Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2018 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Some of the world’s most exciting and distinctive wines are originating in the New World, where trailblazing vintners are experimenting with surprising varieties, techniques and packaging. From Chile to Australia to South Africa and beyond, these incredibly diverse and delicious bottlings are redefining the vinous landscape, affordable for anyone with a desire for discovery. Check out pages 40, 46 and 60 to discover some of the New World’s most dynamic regions, as reported by our intrepid tasters and editors. Our commitment to bringing you unsung and unique wine choices, in addition to reporting on the world’s most coveted and classic producers, fuels our tasting program at Wine Enthusiast. Our team of 18 expert, global tasters review more than 22,000 wines a year—more than any other magazine—and we continue to…

Listen up! We’ve refreshed our approach to the Wine Enthusiast Podcast. Thanks to your feedback, each and every episode will bring you more stories, more conversations and more of the best and brightest personalities from the worlds of wine, beer and spirits— plus restaurants, food, travel and entertaining. Whether you’re a wine novice, connoisseur or somewhere in between, the new Wine Enthusiast Podcast is your go-to for all-things beverage, and beyond! Follow us @WineEnthusiast TUNE IN to Season 3 To listen, visit winemag.com/podcast…

Before the advent of commercial hair dye, beet juice was commonly used to color hair red. Beet juice is a popular cocktail ingredient. It adds sweetness, color and a hearty dose of antioxidants. About 20% of the world’s sugar comes from sugar beets, which have a higher sucrose content than those cultivated for eating. The candi sugar used to brew Belgian beers is an unrefined beet sugar. Beets have been considered an aphrodisiac since Roman times. A staple of Eastern European cuisine, beets were first cultivated near the Mediterranean thousands of years ago. People just ate their leaves until the 1800s, when French chefs discovered the root’s complex flavor. They can be found in shades ranging from sunshine yellow and bright orange to ruby red, and offer sweet, earthy…

At Charleston, South Carolina’s Le Farfalle, Chef/ Owner Michael Toscano serves creative Italian cuisine interpreted with local ingredients, from white shrimp and hand-milled grains to the fennel showcased in this salad. Smaller, more tender bulbs of fennel, no larger than your fist, are preferred for this two-way treatment. WINE PAIRING Vignobles Bulliat 2015 Nature (Morgon) “This organic Cru Beaujolais warms the heart and senses, and is a perfect complement to the savory elements of this salad,” says Cynthia Goddeau, sommelier at Le Farfalle. “Red plum and rose aromas start the juices flowing, while the palate of wild cherry, bright acidity and soft tannins allow the sweet fennel and the tang of the cheese to stand at attention.” FRESH AND CARAMELIZED FENNEL SALAD WITH BLUE CHEESE AND RED-WINE CHERRIES Courtesy…

You don’t need trendy hopped grapefruit bitters, Chartreuse or amaro to make great cocktails. In The One-Bottle Cocktail: More than 80 Recipes with Fresh Ingredients and a Single Spirit (Ten Speed Press, 2018), none of the recipes included require so much as vermouth. Instead, popular spirits like gin, Tequila or rye are brightened with grocery store staples. Discover how overlooked ingredients like Greek yogurt, arugula and dates can change your drinking life. GIN ROCKET Courtesy Kate Bolton In cocktail shaker, muddle ¼ cup thin-sliced fennel, 1 pinch fennel fronds, ¼ cup packed arugula leaves, ¾ ounce lime juice and ¾ ounce simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water). Add 2 ounces gin, and fill shaker with ice. Shake vigorously until chilled. Doublestrain into chilled coupe. Garnish with lime wheel,…

You may recognize Niagara for the falls, slot machines and honeymoon hotels, but Canada’s Niagara Peninsula also houses one of North America’s most dynamic and charming wine countries. From sparkling to icewine, Chardonnay to Cabernet Franc, here are six places to sip. TREADWELL Owner and Sommelier James Treadwell offers local, seasonal fare along with an extensive list of Niagara wines. The selection is remarkable, with particular attention given to small producers and sustainable growing efforts. Try Flat Rock’s Riddled, a sparkler demonstrating the excitement that surrounds the Peninsula’s burgeoning category. BACKHOUSE Centered around an open-flame grill and décor by emerging Canadian artists, Backhouse provides a rusticyet-refined dining experience led by Chef Ryan Crawford’s farm-to-table ethos. Order the Tawse Estate Vineyards Chardonnay, a wine that illuminates its terroir, to pair…

Centuries ago, Pinot Noir earned a reputation among the winemaking monks of Burgundy for expressing terroir better than any other variety in the region. Today, wines from California’s remote Anderson Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) show that the grape does the same in their neighborhood. The 15-mile-long valley sits just 10 miles from the cool, blustery Pacific Coast, and the appellation is dotted with great sites to grow Pinot Noir. They are split between high-performance winery estate operations like Lazy Creek Vineyards, Goldeneye Winery and Black Kite Cellars, and independent vineyards that supply wineries for their site-designated bottlings. What follows are the G ve most outstanding vineyards in Anderson Valley, proven to yield high-quality, memorable bottlings for a variety of winemakers. They provide a great sense of the varied…

This small, beautifully situated vineyard hugs a steep hillside in what’s known as the “deep end” of Anderson Valley. There, it’s all rugged hills, twisting creeks and towering redwoods to the town of Mendocino, a short drive away to the northwest. The co-founder of Williams Selyem, Burt Williams, created this jewel of a vineyard after he and partner Ed Selyem sold their winery to its current owner, John Dyson, in 1998. Williams then began to sell the grapes to his former winery, and Morning Dew Ranch joined the pantheon of small-lot, vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs that Russian River Valley-based Williams Selyem offers its members for direct purchase on an allocation basis. The vineyard is divided into 10 blocks, with different clones, rootstocks, slopes and sun exposure. It wasn’t long before…

In Denmark, seek out producers like Singlefile Wines, Rockcliffe and Castelli Estate (its noteworthy Empirica range consists of experimental wines, like Funk L’Orange and a skin-contact Gewürztraminer). In Porongurup, classic producers include Castle Rock Estate and Zarephath. The former’s Pinot Noir and Riesling are both wonderful expressions of Porongurup terroir. Mount Barker boasts plenty of classic wineries like West Cape Howe Wines, Galafrey Wines, Plantagenet and Forest Hill Vineyard, all with their own unique and fascinating history. And in Frankland River, Alkoomi Wines and Frankland Estate are two names to seek out, the latter of which produces some of Australia’s most long-lived, terroir-expressive Rieslings.…

CONDRIEU 93 Delas Frères 2016 Clos Boucher (Condrieu). Layers of spice, vanilla and toast are integrated from nose to palate in this elegant Condrieu. It’s an unctuous, textured sip marked by silken waves of orange water, blossom and cream. The acidity is soft but lemony, lending freshness to a salty, savory hazelnut finish. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’ Choice. — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 80 92 Château de Saint-Cosme 2014 Condrieu. Invigorating freshness sets this impeccably balanced Viognier apart in a flight of peers. Crisp yellow peach, mango and orange flavors are pristine and cutting, accented by subtle vanilla, spice and marshmallow. It’s primary and fruity without restraint, yet elegantly composed in heft and body. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. — A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 78…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 91 Giesen 2014 The Fuder Single Vineyard Selection Dillons Point Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). More subtle in style compared to Giesen’s other single-vineyard offering, Matthews Lane, this wine offers stone fruit, lemon tea, snow pea and wild mint aromas. The opulent palate boasts tongue-tingling acidity and a citrus zing amidst a round texture. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. — C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 35 91 Giesen 2014 The Fuder Single Vineyard Selection Matthews Lane Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Over one million cuttings from the Matthews Lane Vineyard have been supplied to nurseries—and therefore wineries—around Marlborough, so in theory, there’s a small piece of it in many of the wines from the region. It’s special, then, to taste Giesen’s single-vineyard version, aged in 1000 liter German fuders. Trademark regional…

MERLOT 94 La Jota Vineyard 2014 Merlot (Howell Mountain). For full review see page 87. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $ 85 92 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2013 Old Vines Merlot (Livermore Valley). This wine is deep in fruit flavors, and has impressive structure in terms of extraction, body and an abundance of fine-grained tannin. It brings soft black cherry and cedar to the aroma, dark chocolate and blueberry to the palate and coats the mouth with a firm but velvety texture. Best after 2020. — J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 30 92 Mt. Brave 2014 Merlot (Mount Veeder). Largely structured and weighty, this wellmade wine is youthful in its grippy tannins and full embrace of huckleberry and black-cherry fruit, the exuberance tempered by complements of black licorice and toasted…

RIESLING 91 Empire Estate 2016 Reserve Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Intense aromas of ripe peach, tangerine, ginger and white blossoms meld with underscores of slate and smoke in this project from Thomas Pastuszak, wine director at The NoMad. This powerful wine displays rich fruit, floral and spice notes on the palate, with enough acidity to maintain balance. The finish carries on and on in apricot and orchard blossom tones. A perfect match for pork or fowl. — A.P. abv: 13.3% Price: $ 28 91 Millbrook 2016 Castle Hill Vineyard Estate Bottled Riesling (Hudson River Region). For full review see page 94. abv: 13% Price: $ 25 91 Red Newt Cellars 2014 The Knoll Lahoma Vineyards Riesling (Finger Lakes). Sourced from a particularly well-drained block in the Lahoma Vineyards—located on…

With spring in full bloom and summer looming just around the corner, it’s the perfect time of year for a transitional brew, one that will move us from the robust porters, hearty strong ales and imperial selections enjoyed throughout winter and even the beginning of spring to lighter, crisper quaff s. Not quite ready for wheat beers and Pilsners, amber or red ales are the perfect choice for this time of year. Honestly, they are also ideal selections for year-round enjoyment, thanks to their typically accessible and easily approachable profiles and smooth, yet not overly dense or rich flavors. The tricky thing about amber or red ales is that it is a bit of a catch-all category, with examples ranging from light copper to amber to light brown in…

LAUREN BUZZEO Reviews Languedoc-Roussillon, South Africa, Beer @laurbuzz ALEXANDER PEARTREE Reviews Italy, New York @apatrone23 ANNE KREBIEHL, MW Reviews Austria, Alsace @Anneinvino MATT KETTMANN Reviews California: Central Coast @mattkettmann CHRISTINA PICKARD Reviews Australia, New Zealand @winewchristina JEFF JENSSEN Reviews Central & Eastern Europe @worldwineguys MICHAEL SCHACHNER Reviews Spain, South America @wineschach KERIN O’KEEFE Reviews Italy @kerinokeefe ROGER VOSS Reviews France, Portugal @vossroger ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA Reviews Germany, Rhône @annaleeiijima JIM GORDON Reviews California: Sierra Foothills, Lodi, Mendocino @gordone_cellars VIRGINIE BOONE Reviews California: Napa & Sonoma @vboone PAUL GREGUTT Reviews Oregon, Canada @paulgwine SEAN P. SULLIVAN Reviews Washington, Idaho @wawinereport MIKE DESIMONE Reviews Israel, North Africa, Asia @worldwineguys CARRIE DYKES Reviews Virginia @lilmarzipan FIONA ADAMS Reviews Other U.S. @bkfiona KARA NEWMAN Reviews Spirits @karanewman…

93 Alheit 2015 Radio Lazarus Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch); $100, Cellar Selection. Broadbent Selections, Inc. 93 Keermont 2015 Terrasse (Stellenbosch); $27, Editors’ Choice. Kysela Père et Fils. 93 Mullineux 2015 Granite Chenin Blanc (Swartland); $88. Skurnik Wines, Inc. 93 Storm 2015 Vrede Chardonnay (Hemel en Aarde); $55. Broadbent Selections, Inc. 92 Beaumont 2015 Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc (Bot River); $40. Broadbent Selections, Inc. 92 Crystallum 2015 The Agnes Chardonnay (Western Cape); $32, Editors’ Choice. Pascal/Schildt Selections. 92 DeMorgenzon 2015 Reserve Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch); $35. Cape Classics. 92 Jardin 2015 Nine Yards Chardonnay (Stellenbosch); $50. Pascal/Schildt Selections. 92 L’Avenir 2015 Single Block 30 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch); $45. Esprit du Vin. 92 Paserene 2015 Chardonnay (Elgin); $30, Editors’ Choice. Branwar Wines. 92 Rustenberg 2015 Five Soldiers Chardonnay (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch); $50. Indigo Wine Group.…

While the Chilean boutique-wine movement has been driven mostly by small stand-alone producers, a side effect has been Chile’s largest wineries, including Concha y Toro, Santa Rita, Viña San Pedro and Santa Carolina, exploring and producing site-specific artisan wines of their own. Additional larger-size wineries that are also bottling specialty small-production wines include Ventisquero, Montes, Lapostolle, Errázuriz, De Martino and Valdivieso, among others. Below are boutique producers whose wines, while maybe not easy to find in the United States, are helping to change the landscape of Chilean wine. Visit winemag.com/ratings for full tasting notes and more information about the many Chilean boutique wines tasted for this article. Pioneering Wineries Erasmo Gillmore Wines Laberinto Laura Hartwig Villard Fine Wines Second Wave Wineries Clos Ouvert Flaherty Wines Matetic Vineyards Montsecano Vistalago…

Andrew Hoadley is at the forefront of experimentalism and creativity with his La Violetta label. He is preceded by Xabregas (try its sunset-hued skin contact Mad Men of Riesling Devolution). Organic, biodynamic and natural winemaking are championed by Brave New Wines, Freehand Wines and Albany’s Oranje Tractor Wine, while producers like Flor Marchè, Swinney Vineyards and, most recently, Lonely Shore and L’Enclos du Tertre, focus on expressing single-site terroirs. Also consider one of the region’s longstanding cheerleaders, Larry Cherubino, who highlights Great Southern’s diversity in his many labels, including Apostrophe.…

Dean Neff developed this dish to showcase crabs from Figure 8 Island, just east of Wilmington, North Carolina, though other lean flatfish will also work. His shallow-frying technique gives the taste and texture of deep-frying, minus the mess. Courtesy Dean Neff, executive chef/owner, PinPoint Restaurant, Wilmington, NC CRISPY SOFT SHELL CRAB 2 cups buttermilk2 cups fine cornmeal or masa harinaKosher salt, to taste4 medium soft-shell crabs, cleaned (or 6- ounce pieces boneless flounder or skate wing)Neutral oil, like corn, safflower or peanut, for fryingCreamed Cope’s Corn (recipe follows)Hot Sauce Beurre Blanc (recipe follows)Fresh tarragon or celery leaves (for garnish) CREAMED COPE’S CORN 2 cups John Cope’s Toasted Dried Sweet Corn*2 cups milk1 cup vegetable or corn stock½ cup heavy cream1 tablespoon unsalted butter½ cup fine-chopped leek (white part only)3…

Courtesy Nina Compton, chef and co-owner, Compère Lapin and Bywater American Bistro, New Orleans 6 cups chicken stock3 tablespoons vegetable oil8 ounces chicken livers, minced4 ounces pork sausage (casing removed)½ Scotch bonnet or habanero chile pepper, seeded and minced1½ cups fine-chopped yellow onion¼ cup fine-chopped green pepper¼ cup fine-chopped celery2 large garlic cloves, minced1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to season1½ teaspoons onion powder½ teaspoon cayenne pepper1½ teaspoons chopped fresh oregano1½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme2 tablespoons butter1½ cups Arborio rice2 cups flour4 eggs, beaten2 cups panko crumbs, finely ground in a food processorBlack pepper, to taste¼ cup minced fresh parsley1 cup fine-grated Parmesan4 ounces fontina, cut into ½-inch cubesSour Orange Mojo (recipe follows) Warm stock over low heat. In large saute pan, warm oil over medium-high heat. Add livers…

CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 95 Fontodi 2014 Vigna del Sorbo Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). Exotic spice, pipe tobacco, dark-skinned berry, forest floor and a whiff of French oak all come together on this structured red. The elegant, full-bodied palate evokes Marasca cherry, black raspberry, licorice and white pepper while vibrant acidity and firm, fine-grained tannins provide balance. It’s still young, with great energy and will benefit from more time in the bottle. Drink 2020–2029. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 93 Capannelle 2013 Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). Pressed iris, red-skinned berry, underbrush and a whiff of rosemary lead the nose on this 100% Sangiovese. The supple, juicy palate delivers black cherry, white pepper, leather and star anise alongside velvety, polished tannins. It’s already accessible but will…

PINOTAGE 92 Beeslaar 2015 Pinotage (Stellenbosch). From longtime Kanonkop winemaker Abrie Beeslaar comes this stellar expression of the grape. Ripe, full and powerful, it’s wrapped in a plush yet firm and well-balanced package that should mature well through 2026. Upfront oaky notes of cocoa, toasted vanilla and cedar should further integrate into the rich plum, cassis and boysenberry fruit with time. Earthy and herbal tones of tree bark, fallen leaves and licorice root dance in the background. Broadbent Selections, Inc. — L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 50 92 David & Nadia 2015 Pinotage (Swartland). An enticing and layered expression of the grape, this well-balanced bottling offers hints of cured meat, campfire, asphalt and iris that masterfully augment the brambly red berry and wild raspberry core. Those notes all continue…

Green Leaders Meet the makers leading industry-wide transformations in the face of looming climate change and issues of sustainability. Franciacorta: Italy’s Serious Sparkler Move over, Prosecco: Franciacorta, a metodo classico, has stepped into the spotlight. We present the pedigree of this up-and-coming Italian bubbly. The Other French Pinot Noirs From Alsace to Languedoc, Pinot Noir is produced in plenty of places outside of Burgundy. Discover the lesser-known regions you should be reaching for. The Wine Lover’s Guide to Venice We venture beyond the iconic canals and romantic architecture to explore Venice’s off-the-beaten-path venues catering to visiting wine lovers. Italian-American Cooking Forget about checkered tablecloths and cheesy music. Enjoy classic red-sauce dishes in your own home, matched with updated wine pairings. To learn more about our tasters go to winemag.com/editors…

Napa Valley is not a place that sits still. Amid the decades-old, world-renowned wineries sprout signs of new beginnings. Sometimes, the new blood is younger-generation Napa, while other times, innovation is sparked by an outsider with a new take on things. These six wineries are some of our under-the-radar favorites. ASHES & DIAMONDS Just outside the town of Napa, Ashes & Diamonds is the vision of founder Kashy Khaledi, whose L.A. background includes time in the music video biz. Khaledi seeks to create a provocative ecosystem of food, wine and design, while winemakers Steve Matthiasson and Diana Snowden Seysses craft delicious bottlings from Cabernet Franc Rosé to Rancho Pequeño Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. ashesdiamonds.com DI COSTANZO Winemaker Massimo Di Costanzo and his wife, Erin Sullivan, whose Acme Fine Wines is…

Off the coast of Croatia lies the isle of Hvar, which is gaining recognition for natural wine from indigenous grapes, thanks to Jo Ahearne, MW, and her namesake winery. English-born Ahearne talks about how she ended up making wine on a small island in the Adriatic. How did you get started as a winemaker? I did my first vintage in [Australia’s] Barossa Valley with Charles Melton. He was an amazing person to start learning with. After my first two years studying for my winemaking degree, I went part time and worked full time [as] his assistant winemaker. Then my first actual senior winemaking job was with Jacob’s Creek, also in the Barossa Valley. When did you start making wine on Hvar? My first vintage was 2014, but I moved…

The signature drink of Navy Strength, the streamlined tikimodern spot from the proprietors of beloved Seattle cocktail lounge Rob Roy, is a classic daiquiri at heart. Yet, the addition of one ingredient, absinthe, transforms the drink entirely. Subtle herbal notes from the spirit flicker around the edges of the familiar sweet-tart cocktail, which lead you from sip to sip. Before you know it, the glass is empty. NAVY STRENGTH DAIQUIRI Courtesy Chris Elford, Navy Strength, Seattle 2 ounces Banks 5 Island Rum1 ounce lime juice¾ ounce Demerara syrup*2 dashes absintheLime wheel (for garnish) In cocktail shaker, combine all ingredients with ice. Shake well, and strain into chilled coupe glass. Garnish with lime wheel. *To make Demerara syrup, mix 1 part hot water with 1 part Demerara sugar. Stir until…

Isn’t there also a place for those that are outrageously delicious for, say, five, 10 or 15 years, and then fade? A bottling’s ability to stand the test of time has long been considered a mark of quality, but that might not be the case for every wine or even every region. We’ve never had to question the ageability of wines from Old World regions like France and Italy—we already know the answer. Wineries throughout these countries date back generations, and top vintages of, say, Bordeaux or Barolo can last for decades; we have the pleasure and ability to taste such older bottlings as proof of their prowess. Can New World wines age the same way? More importantly, should they even be held to the same standard? Given the…

96 De Toren 2015 Book 17 XVII (Stellenbosch); $330, Cellar Selection. Cape Classics. 95 Mvemve Raats 2015 MR de Compostella (Stellenbosch); $85, Cellar Selection. Cape Classics. 94 Mullineux 2015 Schist Roundstone Syrah (Swartland); $140. Skurnik Wines, Inc. 93 Savage 2015 The Girl Next Door Syrah (Cape Peninsula); $63. Broadbent Selections, Inc. 92 Beeslaar 2015 Pinotage (Stellenbosch); $50. Broadbent Selections, Inc. 92 David & Nadia 2015 Pinotage (Swartland); $30, Editors’ Choice. Pascal/Schildt Selections. 92 Rainbow’s End 2015 Estate Wine Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch); $25, Editors’ Choice. Baobab Wines, Inc. 92 The Drift 2015 There Are Still Mysteries Pinot Noir (Overberg); $75. Pascal/Schildt Selections. 91 A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2015 Raaigras Grenache (Swartland); $53. Broadbent Selections, Inc. 91 Chamonix 2015 Feldspar Pinot Noir (Franschhoek); $31. Vineyard Brands. 91 David Frost 2015 Par…

Although many people hear “single malt” and automatically think “Scotch,” pioneers are bringing the concept to America, often with a few key twists. Many of these producers use local ingredients. Seattle’s Westland Distillery, for instance, has explored aging Pacific Northwest barley in barrels made from a native species of oak, while Santa Fe Spirits smokes southwestern-grown mesquite wood for vessels that impart sweet, meaty notes reminiscent of barbecue. Others draw on craft-beer culture, working with malted barley in ways rarely seen in Scotland, like roasting malt to various levels for complex layers of flavor. The growing group of distillers making American single malts also represents an increased awareness of whiskey terroir. Many consider factors like raw and sourced materials, climate and altitude and their effects on how a whiskey…

Courtesy Vishwesh Bhatt, executive chef, Snackbar, Oxford, MS 8 large collard leaves4 6-ounce catfish filletsSalt, to taste1 teaspoon ground turmeric6 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lime juice¼ cup peanut oil2 shallots, sliced1 2-inch piece ginger, chopped3 cloves garlic1 serrano chile1 cup cilantro leaves⅔ cup mint leaves1⅓ cup roasted peanuts1½ teaspoons toasted cumin seeds½ teaspoon toasted fennel seeds2 teaspoons toasted coriander seeds1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper1½ teaspoons brown sugarChopped cilantro, chopped peanuts and thin-sliced jalapeño (for garnish) Heat oven to 400°F. Blanch collard leaves in salted boiling water for 30 seconds. Remove and shock in ice water. Lay leaves on towels to dry. Sprinkle both sides of catfish lightly with salt, turmeric and 3 tablespoons lime juice. Refrigerate for 20–30 minutes. Add remaining lime juice, 2 tablespoons peanut oil and all other ingredients…

Excluding the gush of nouveau that hits the shelves every November, this region is producing serious wines at attainable prices. Often overshadowed by Burgundy to the north, many wine drinkers are not aware of the excellent quality coming out of Beaujolais. This month’s Buying Guide aims to put that right. Excluding the gush of nouveau that hits shelves every November, this region is producing serious wines at attainable prices. Beaujolais is a region of two halves: In the south, close to the gastronomic city of Lyons, it produces simple, fruity wines, while the north is known for its rich, long-lived wines from the area’s iconic granite soils. The grape— Gamay—remains the constant, yet the results are very different depending on soil type and vineyard location. While some wines in…

GRÜNER VELTLINER SMARAGD 96 Franz Hirtzberger 2016 Rotes Tor Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). This wine’s shy, elusive nose promises hints of ripe citrus and herbal savor. The palate obliges with streamlined, zesty citrus notes and the salty tang of thyme and sage, surrounded by bright lemon freshness. A compact, incisive package of refreshing delight, it dances on tiptoe but knows its every step. Weygandt- Metzler. — A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 50 95 Alzinger 2016 Ried Steinertal Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). A tropical touch of passion fruit plays on the pear-inflected nose of this wine. The concentrated palate, however, is all about lemon freshness and yeasty texture. Soy and miso notions add a salty element while lemon zest and pith notes provide a precise texture. That lemon peel quality…

SYRAH 93 Matetic 2012 Syrah (San Antonio). If you know Matetic Syrah, then this will be like an old friend coming back for a visit. The nose is earthy and dense, with the winery’s patented mix of heady herbal fruit and eucalyptus aromas. A chewy palate spreads its wings with grace and strength, while this tastes of toasty oak, medicinal black fruits and minty herbs. Drink through 2022. Quintessential Wines. — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 86 93 Montes 2013 Folly Syrah (Apalta). Plenty of up-front oak makes for a nose with char and smoke on top of perfumed black fruit. A profoundly deep palate is fairly tannic and firm. Flavors of black plum, dark chocolate, herbs and pepper finish more dry than jammy, with tea and wood spice…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 91 Barons 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). The fruit for this wine all comes from Hedges Estate Vineyard. Brooding aromas of soil, dark fruit, cigar, herb and spice box lead to palatecoating dark-fruit flavors—well balanced fruit flavors. Firm, lightly chalky tannins provide support. Give it some time in the cellar to develop. Best after 2020. — S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 65 91 Barons 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). All coming from Hedges Estate Vineyard and aged in 100% new French oak, this wine has had a full five years to develop and it’s made the best of it. Aromas of spice box, dark fruit, vanilla and high-toned herb are followed by luscious black-fruit flavors that stretch out on the finish. It’s unabashed in its appeal with…

There’s no doubt about it—vermouth is in the midst of a revival. The last time we reviewed the category, just two years ago, the styles were mainly white and dry or red and sweet. Since then, the spectrum has widened: “extra dry” for those who can’t bear even a hint of sweetness; “blanc/blanco/ bianco” for a richer, more honeyed version of dry; “amber/ ambrato”—a bridge between blanco and sweet, often with a tawny hue and enticing flavors that hint at dried fruit and spice; and of course “rosato,” the vermouth equivalent of a rose wine. The point is this: there’s now a veritable rainbow of vermouths out there, spanning a wider range of flavors and hues than ever. No wonder bartenders are so excited about painting with this ever-expanding…

When I was in my early 20s, I thought entering adulthood was simply a matter of checking tasks off a list: Graduate college. Get a job. Go somewhere— anywhere—that wasn’t my hometown. Also on the list? Learn how to drink. Properly. Outside of house parties in dingy, dark basements via red plastic cups containing questionably colored elixirs. When I moved from Nebraska to Arizona for my first postgraduate job, I was determined to evolve toward drinking something refined and sophisticated, which, to me, meant wine. But I had no idea where to start. Aside from a few glasses (okay, bottles) of Tempranillo consumed over the one summer I spent studying abroad in Spain, my experiences with wine had been limited. One day I stumbled upon the tasting table at…