Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2018 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

SPAIN’S GREAT MATCH Wine Enthusiast was a sponsor of the Chicago wine event in November. Members of the trade and the general public were given an opportunity to taste wines from Spain’s different regions, as well as attend seminars on topics like Sherry. HAWAII FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL The seventh annual event took place on three islands, over three weekends in October and November. W.E. Contributing Editors Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen were among the talented presenters from the mainland, working alongside local chefs. FIRE, FLOUR & FORK FESTIVAL Now in its fourth year, this event spotlights the food, drinks and culture in and around Richmond, Virginia. The November festival includes tours, talks and tastings that highlight local wine, cider, beer and plenty of oysters. RAW WINE NYC In November,…

“As often as we can, we try to go and look and see what the real story is.” Thad Vogler is best known for his Bay Area bars, Bar Agricole and Trou Normand, which feature tight, thoughtful spirits lists. His debut book, By The Smoke & The Smell: My Search for the Rare & Sublime on the Spirits Trail (Ten Speed Press, 2017), serves as a memoir, manifesto and travelogue, tracing his journeys through France’s brandy-making regions, Scotland, Cuba and more. We talked with Vogler about his life of writing and traveling. What made you decide to write this book? I bartended for decades and had all these incredibly short conversations about things I’m interested in… I had a thoughtful conversation with an agent who said why don’t you do…

A FAMILY COMMITMENT TO QUALITY… YEAR AFTER YEAR “Creating extraordinary wine from California’s best vineyards…just simply being the best.” That’s what Jess Jackson envisioned when he and his family founded Kendall-Jackson Winery in 1982. Based in Sonoma County, Kendall-Jackson is both a pioneer and an innovator in California’s wine industry. Chardonnay forms an important part of the company’s heritage—it was the first bottling the winery released. Moreover, the instant appeal and style of that inaugural vintage helped spark America’s love affair with the classic grape. Today, Chardonnay is the most popular wine varietal in the United States. In recognition of Kendall-Jackson’s trailblazing success with Chardonnay, they have been honored with Wine Enthusiast’s 2017 Wine Star Award, American Winery of the Year. “It’s a true family and everyone that works here…

Whether you’re on the hunt for new bottles to stock your cellar or need advice on when to pop open your latest gem, Wine Enthusiast has got you covered. Check our latest vintage chart to get an idea of what to expect. Although our expert reviewers base these ratings and maturity estimates on their vast tasting experience and interviews with local winemakers, we can’t guarantee every wine will live up or down to the broad generalizations—in the world of wine, there are exceptions to every rule. Maturity estimates assume proper storage conditions over the life of the wine. Download the 2017 Vintage Chart at winemag.com GREAT OLDER VINTAGES FRANCE Pomerol/Saint-Émilion: 1989, 1985, 1982, 1978, 1970, 1964, 1961, 1959, 1955, 1953, 1949, 1947, 1945 Médoc: 1986, 1982, 1978, 1970, 1966, 1961,…

From the palatial digs of Hearst Castle in the north to the soft sands of Pismo Beach on the southern end, the coastline of San Luis Obispo County has been a vacationer’s paradise for more than a century. Beachcombing, surfing, hiking, cycling and kayaking present endless outdoor opportunities for all ages. And thanks to the thriving wine countries of Edna Valley and Paso Robles, which sit slightly inland, the college town of San Luis Obispo is now home to culinary gold. Add the quaint villages of Arroyo Grande, Avila Beach, Cayucos and Cambria, and it’s no wonder why so many tourists wind up locals. WHERE TO DINE The county’s dining scene skyrocketed when Chez Panisse alum Brian Collins came home to Arroyo Grande and opened Ember, whose centrally located wood-fired…

Sometimes dissed as white wine with training wheels, Chardonnay still remains a favorite among consumers due to its wide availability on the market and generally good quality. But beyond just good, truly great Chardonnay is elusive. Historically, there are two main camps: the New World, heavily oaked, buttery and rich Chardonnays; and the elegant, detailed, mineral- driven Old World styles. Oregon’s vintners can emulate the best of both worlds, while producing distinctive, place-specific wines. Look to pioneering wineries such as Adelsheim, Eyrie and Ponzi for an overview of techniques. Jason Lett at Eyrie favors old vine wines from Draper and Wente clones that were brought up from University of California– Davis in the mid-1960s. These wines are lean, subtle and especially ageworthy. Luisa Ponzi is incorporating some new oak into…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 99 Alpha Omega 2013 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Dark and vibrant in color, this is a stellar, jaw-dropping wine, beautiful and powerful, in addition to velvety and complex. It captures a mountain appellation seamlessly, all brawny tannin and lengthy weight. Cranberry, cassis, pencil shavings and wild sage form around a grip of grit and stony mineral. — V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 225 98 Alpha Omega 2013 Beckstoffer Las Piedras Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). This is a bright concentrated wine that’s velvety in texture and tone. Dried red cherry and cassis complement an undeniably present flirtation of dusty gravel and rock, a taste of terroir that persists and pleases, as medium-bodied weight gives in to a breadth of spicy complexity. Editors’ Choice. — V.B. abv: 14.4%…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 90 Bodegas la Cepa Alta 2014 La Veguilla Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Grainy oak aromas dominate a nose with black-fruit, spice, balsam wood and barrel notes. This crianza is intense, with strong tannins and blazing acidity. Toasted, blackened berry flavors are under control on a bold finish. Drink through 2022. Misa Imports. — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 29 89 Atalayas de Golbán 2014 Torre de Golbán Crianza (Ribera del Duero). From Dominio de Atauta, this crianza is slightly murky and earthy up front, with aromas of smoky wood, prune and dark grit. A full, saturated palate is packed with power, while this tastes of blackberry, prune and leather. Aviva Vino. — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 19 89 Viña Vilano 2014 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Straightforward…

ETNA ROSSO 95 Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2015 Rosso (Etna). Aromas of raspberry jam, Mediterranean scrub, menthol and a whiff of exotic spice lead the nose on this beautiful red. Concentrated but also boasting finesse, the juicy palate delivers black cherry, blackberry, licorice, clove, and crushed herb alongside firm, ultrafine tannins. de Grazia Imports LLC. — K.O. abv: NA Price: $ NA 95 Tornatore 2015 Pietrarizzo Rosso (Etna). For full review see page 91. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $ 50 94 Pietradolce 2014 Barbagalli Rosso (Etna). Made from pre-phylloxera Nerello Mascalese vines, this compelling wine boasts enticing scents of blue flower, exotic spice, menthol and wild berry. It’s dense and concentrated but also elegant, delivering mouthfuls of black cherry marinated in spirits, raspberry compote, licorice and well-integrated oak. Firm,…

RED WINES 91 Cricova 2012 Vin Rosu Sec Cabernet Sauvignon (Moldova). Garnet in the glass, this Cabernet Sauvignon has aromas of black currants, pepper and plum. A note of vanilla, along with more dark fruit, builds on the palate, with smooth tannins offering support. A bright splash of fresh fruit lingers on the finish. Salveto Imports. — J.J. abv: 13% Price: $ NA 90 Cricova 2011 Magnific (Moldova). This Moldovan red blend has aromas of underripe cherry, cassis and blueberry. These notes carry to the smooth palate, detailed by a slight grip of tannins, with a note of vanilla adding warmth. Salveto Imports. — J.J. abv: 14% Price: $ NA 89 Cricova 2013 Codru Dry Cabernet Franc- Merlot (Moldova). A blend of 75% Cabernet Franc and 25% Merlot, this garnet-colored…

I first encountered wine as a teenager. Immediately, I knew I was in love. I’d established a fondness for eating well, thanks to Molto Mario and PBS reruns of Julia and Jacques when a mentor and father of a friend introduced me to fine wine. I knew how to eat well, but Mr. Shu knew how to drink well. I was transfixed with the idea that, among sophisticated people, wine was the vocabulary for elegant conversation. It was a portal to the world’s geography and a universally accepted currency. I wasn’t right about much from my teenage years, but I was certainly right about this. Recollections of college often include regrettable drinking choices. And while I regret the volume I consumed, I maintain enduring respect for the quality of my…

DRINK PINK A guide to blushing gins, ciders and more. This Valentine’s Day, get ready to drink pink beyond a glass of rosé. Here’s an array of sips to try, from a crop of gins blushed ballet-slipper pink to effervescent ciders and a punchy grapefruit liqueur just right to spike celebratory cocktails. Gin with a Tint Spirits producers have rolled out a range of creative pink gin bottlings designed to brighten gin and tonics as well as other cocktails. Gin and Angostura bitters were once mixed to quell seasickness in the Royal British Navy, and Pink Gin went on to become a fashionable cocktail in 19th-century England. Some, like The Bitter Truth Pink Gin, are a nod to that history, while others owe their hues to a wider range of…

Make the most of citrus season with this Italian-accented cocktail, presented in a casual way: an open-topped soda can and straw. Created for Los Angeles restaurant Gusto, this features Aranciata Rossa blood orange soda from Italy, along with either fresh-squeezed blood orange juice or frozen concentrate. Mezcal (or, in a pinch, Tequila) adds peppery piquancy. MOLTO FACILE Courtesy Devon Espinosa, bartender, Gusto, Los Angeles 2 ounces Sanpellegrino Aranciata Rossa2 ounces mezcal½ ounce lemon juice½ ounce simple syrup1 ounce fresh-squeezed blood orange juice, purée or concentrateBlood orange wheel (for garnish) Remove top of can with can opener. Reserve soda, and set empty can aside. In cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine mezcal, lemon juice, simple syrup and blood orange juice or concentrate. Shake well, and strain into can. Add soda and…

Besides making a mean cream pie, coconut can provide food, water, wood, fabric and shelter. Yet, most of us have barely explored its potential beyond desserts. Creamy coconut milk, extracted from its oil-rich meat, is used extensively in Southeast Asian, Caribbean and some South American cuisines. It’s a great tool to enrich vegetable soups, steam shellfish or braise greens. Widely available, unsweetened shredded coconut can be an interesting addition to salads, granola, streusel toppings and chutneys. It can also liven up coatings for baked chicken or shrimp, and makes a fine garnish for yogurt or oatmeal. Per capita, Sri Lankan residents consume more coconut per year than people in any other country, about 115 pounds per person. Scaling coconut palm trees can be dangerous, so monkeys are oft en trained…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Managing Editor/Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Tasting Coordinators Carrie Dykes and Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following…

RED BLENDS 94 Ruca Malen 2012 Kinien de Don Raúl (Mendoza). For full review see page 92. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $ 75 93 Valentin Bianchi 2013 Enzo Bianchi (San Rafael). For full review see page 95. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 55 92 Famiglia Meschini 2012 Pacifico Gran Reserva (Mendoza). Earthy, spicy, leafy aromas accent gritty berry scents in this dense, full-bodied wine. Its minty, herbal berry flavors are peppery and drying on the finish. Drink through 2024. Vino Andes LLC. — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 30 92 Pulenta 2013 Gran Corte VII (Luján de Cuyo). Despite showing a touch of damp earth and desiccation on the nose, this mystery red blend gets off to a good start. In the mouth, it’s plush and fleshy, with…

MEURSAULT 94 Louis Jadot 2015 Genevrières Premier Cru (Meursault). This wine offers a great floral aroma with hints of the spice that comes from the wood aging. Its crisp texture and minerality give a pure, clean and fragrant character to this deliciously balanced wine. The tang and zesty character will stand the wine in great stead as it matures. Drink from 2021. Kobrand. — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 100 93 Domaine Julie Belland 2014 Santenots Premier Cru (Meursault). Crisp, textured and tangy, this is a tight, mineral-textured and very terroir- driven wine from a vineyard close to Volnay. It is an impressive, balanced wine, delicious and likely to be ready to drink soon, from late 2018. Saranty Imports. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 100 93 Maison Roche de…

RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS 95 Dr. Loosen 2015 Erdener Prälat Alte Reben GG Dry Riesling (Mosel). Luscious notes of pink grapefruit and greengage plum are ripe yet keenly balanced in this invigorating dry Riesling. It’s buoyantly fruity and forward now, but nuances of candle wax, spice and sun-baked clay predict even greater depth to come. Beautiful already but likely to intensify further from 2020–2025. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 95 95 Dr. Loosen 2015 Graacher Himmelreich GG Alte Reben Dry Riesling (Mosel). Crisp yellow stone fruit and pineapple are brisk and bright on the nose of this vivacious dry wine. Spine tingling and taut, but with unctuously concentrated fruit and mineral complexities, there’s still plenty of development to look forward to. Hold till 2020 if…

While no one is exactly giving up on beloved whiskey or gin, if you want to know what Americans are drinking, here’s the short answer: vodka. The longer answer is that this isn’t a new trend. Vodka claims plenty of space on bar menus and liquor store shelves, and has for some time. This is a continuing trajectory: According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS), vodka represented about one-third of all spirit sales volume in 2016, with the high-end “super premium” segment in particular showing rapid growth. The point is, whether you opt for small-batch bottlings, like Pinckney Bend (reviewed below) or well-known brands like Tito’s or SmirnoI, vodka sales still are going strong. One of the hallmarks of vodka is that it can be distilled from…

Kate Williams would like to invite you to her dinner party. Except by “party” she means an average night of service at her restaurant, Lady of the House. The Detroit spot opened in September to high praise for its nose-to-tail dishes, but Williams insists its success comes down to the personal touches and homey treatment of ingredients. Here, she shares a recipe for salmon crudo, a sophisticated raw seafood dish that she's made accessible enough to recreate for your own intimate get-together. SALMON CRUDO WITH PRETZEL CRUMBS Courtesy Kate Williams, chef, Lady of the House, Detroit 1 1-inch knob ginger, peeled and finely chopped⅛ teaspoon ground coriander⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon¼ cup elderflower or rice vinegar¼ cup olive oilSalt, to taste2 tablespoons crumbled salted pretzels½ Granny Smith apple, diced2 tablespoons pickled…

Colorado isn’t just paradise for outdoor adventurers—it has plenty to offer any wine lover as well. At over 4,000 feet in elevation, Grand Junction and Colorado’s Grand Valley AVA should also be high on your must-visit list. Rocky plateaus offer a beautiful backdrop for wine tasting, hiking, mountain biking and white-water rafting, while abundant fruit markets show off local peaches and other delicious produce to snack on in between. Add in excellent accommodations and dining, and you’ll never want to come back down to lower ground. WHERE TO DINE Start your day with a delicious sit-down breakfast at The Egg & I, where you can “wake up to wonderful” with the Hiker’s Benedict. If you’d rather get a rolling start, snag some coffee and a house-made pastry from Mihaela’s Bakery…

Whether we’re canvassing the casual imbiber, the collector with a well-stocked cellar, or a winemaker working on their current ferment, solid examples of that term we most often associate with a sense of place can be an elusive one to harness. For those looking to discover the epitome of terroir, a remarkable example can be found in one of the most isolated wine regions on the planet: Margaret River in Western Australia, which produces exceptional Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the home of Vasse Felix, Wine Enthusiast’s New World Winery of the Year, and its internationally-lauded winemaker, Virginia Willcock. Tucked, yes, down under on the southwestern coastal edge of Australia, the region is truly unique. This becomes quickly apparent while driving down the highway, with aromatics of local eucalypt…

CABERNET FRANC 90 Owen Roe 2015 Rosa Mystica Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). This wine’s soil, black cherry, herb and spice aromas are followed by elegantly styled fruit flavors that show pretty balance. Despite the warmth of the vintage, this one is all about elegance. — S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 28 89 Andrew Rich 2014 Red Willow Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). From one of the state’s premier vineyards, this shows hightoned dried herb, plum and spice aromas followed by palate-coating fruit flavors. It has a lovely feel and balance that carries through the finish. — S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 40 88 Animale 2014 Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). This wine’s aromas are light but intriguing, with peat, cigar box, herb, flower and game notes. Its cherry and raspberry flavors…

SHIRAZ 96 Henschke 2012 Hill of Grace Shiraz (Eden Valley). From the relatively cooler climes of Eden Valley, Henschke’s most famous wine focuses on expressing the unique terroir of its 10 acres of 150 plus year old vineyards rather than on power, oak and extraction. This translates to savory and earthy secondary characters at the fore, highlighting herbal notes with licorice, currants and cocoa powder. The palate is silky and savory, and while the toasty oak notes are apparent, they’re kept in check with wonderfully balanced acidity. Approachable now, it will morph into a thing of stunning beauty with time. Drink now–2037. Negociants USA, Inc. Cellar Selection. — C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 817 95 Penfolds 2013 Grange Shiraz (South Australia). Penfold’s latest Grange release delivers all of the power,…

PAUILLAC 98 Château Pichon Longueville 2015 Pauillac. This is one of the great successes of this vintage. It is generous and rich while also solid and structured. The combination of the essence of black currant and the elegant tannic structure are superb. This is a wine for serious aging and the wine should not be broached before 2026. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 137 96 Château Lynch-Bages 2015 Pauillac. This vintage was ideal for the rich style that this estate has made its own. This wine is full bodied and ripe with black-currant and dark berry fruits. The tannins fall into the cushioned wine with ease and richness. Of course, the wine should be aged, so wait until 2026. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $…

WHITE WINES 89 Árvay 2015 Hárslevelü (Tokaji). Straw yellow in the glass, this dry white wine as aromas of Anjou pear, white flowers and green apple. It is soft on entry and has flavors of apple and white peach with a balanced finish. Palinkerie/Fine Hungarian Imports. — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 20 89 Benedek 2015 Hárslevelü (Mátra). Aromas of vanilla ice cream, white peach and pear juice lead into flavors of peach, pear and Mediterranean herbs on the palate. It is pleasantly astringent with a savory finish. Palinkerie/Fine Hungarian Imports. — J.J. abv: 12% Price: $ 18 89 Somlói Vándor 2015 Olasrizling (Nagy- Somló). Aromas of apple and freshly cut Bartlett pear carry the nose, while flavors of white peach and pear juice mark the crisp palate. Bracing minerality…

Aft er “what’s the difference between an ale and a lager,” one of the most common questions asked about beer is “what’s the difference between a stout and a porter?” With such strong similarities between their aromas and flavors as well as their structures and balance, it’s difficult to get a grasp on what exactly the difference is between the two, if any. The answer is, there are no strict differences. Historically and presently, the two styles are similar in overall profile and ingredients used. A stout was considered a stronger version of a porter or, if you prefer, a porter was originally perceived as a lighter stout. Porters can also vary widely, resulting in a bitter roasty beer or a sweeter chocolaty one and everything in between. But the…