Innholdsfortegnelse for Best of 2017 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Fragrant, savory and loaded with elegance, bottle-fermented wines from the mountainous Trentino province in northern Italy have long been the sparkling wines of choice for Italians. Part of the success behind these stunning sparklers— which are regulated under the Trento D.O.C. denomination and known by their collective trademark Trentodoc—is their unique growing area, located on mid-mountain slopes surrounded by the soaring, breathtakingly beautiful Dolomites, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Situated between 200 and 800 meters (656–2,635 feet) above sea level, the combination of pristine mountain air, highaltitude vineyards and plenty of sunlight generate hot days and cool nights during the growing season, which encourage perfect grape ripening. This ideal maturation generates enticing aromas, pronounced flavors and bright acidity. While the extraordinary growing conditions are fundamental, producer experience is also crucial.…

It’s one of the world’s oldest fruits, mentioned in Greek mythology and the Bible. Many scholars even hypothesize the “forbidden fruit” that tempted Adam and Eve was not an apple, but a pomegranate. With a chambered interior filled with jewellike, blood-red seeds, the pomegranate has been a powerful symbol of love and lust, life and death. In more practical terms, its tartsweet taste is a valuable culinary commodity during the stark winter season. Pomegranate seeds can add a pop of flavor in salads. They’re also great stirred into guacamole or hummus, as a garnish for curries, added to pan sauces for pork or atop a goat-cheese bruschetta. Anywhere you’d squeeze a lemon, consider a sprinkle of fresh pomegranate seeds. PAIR IT “Pomegranate is a bright, tart flavor, so I tend…

While wine consumption continues to increase around the world, it still lags behind another terroirdriven beverage: tea. The evergreen Camellia sinensis shrub spread from China across Asia and Africa, and is now cultivated in a variety of styles. From tropical, monsoondrenched tea fields of northeast India to mountain peaks of central Taiwan, this little bush expresses time and place in every leaf. Whether white, yellow, green, oolong or black, all tea originates from the same parent plant. The major difference in styles come from varying amounts of oxidization allowed in the leaves after harvest. Like with wine, teas will vary in the level of tannins and fruitiness, and many of the more oxidized teas take on malty or nutty flavors. If you want to try teatotaling, find the perfect leaves…

In his book Pantry and Palate, Halifax, Nova Scotia-based journalist Simon Thibault shines light on the homey cuisine of the Acadians, descendants of French colonists who landed in Eastern Canada during the 17th and 18th centuries. Many Acadians eventually resettled in Louisiana, where they became known as Cajuns and developed a culinary exchange that included their Maritime roots and Louisiana natives. Fricot is the Acadians’ traditional chicken soup. There are as many versions of this main-course dish in the Maritime provinces as there are households, but this spicy take is a prime example of the interchange that occurred between different cuisines. WINE PAIRING Pierre Sparr NV Brut Rosé (Crémant d’Alsace) Bubbles make a simple chicken soup feel extra-special, and this Alsace crémant nods to the cuisine’s French roots. Bright pink,…

Eighteen years ago, the editors of Wine Enthusiast conceived an annual awards program to celebrate individuals and companies that have contributed significantly to the success of the wine industry. As the scope of wine culture and business has evolved, so too have our awards. Today, we honor industry game-changers from all facets and in all categories of beverage industries, from winemakers to CEOs, mixologists and sommeliers to brewers and marketing directors. All of the winners represent the current culture of wine, beer and spirits, and are linked by their fearless passion for change, business acumen and savvy for anticipating what’s next in the world of wine and beyond. These winners are the drivers for what’s in your glass every day. We invite you to turn the page and get to…

AMERICAN WINE PIONEER When Nicolaus “Nicky” Hahn bought Smith & Hook Vineyard in California’s Monterey County almost 40 years ago, the region’s reputation for wine was in the dregs. “There I was at almost age 50 and had no clue what the industry was about—I’d never sold a bottle of wine in my life,” says Hahn, who was told categorically by international distributors that Monterey would never excel in wine. “The reputation was such that somebody had to do something about it.” He quickly worked to reset the narrative, most critically with the creation of the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation in 1991. “Thirty years later, we are recognized as one of the great growing regions,” says Hahn, whose Hahn Family Wines now produces more than 400,000 cases annually and distributes…

INNOVATOR OF THE YEAR Innovation comes in many forms. For Bruce Hunter, managing director of Shaw-Ross International Importers, it begins with the ability to spot trends and problems. It ends with solutions that help sell hundreds of thousands of cases of wine. “Part of my philosophy is if everything you do is in your comfort level, then you don’t go anywhere,” says Hunter. And this man, who worked in his father’s wine and liquor shop in a New York City suburb “delivering orders in the rain, snow—nothing stopped me from my appointed rounds,” wanted to go somewhere. So he went to work for Almaden Vineyards, where he became the New York representative and gained experience pounding the pavement. His territory ranged from small corner stores bedecked with bulletproof glass to…

MIXOLOGIST OF THE YEAR ÒYou know the saying, ‘If you want to get something done, ask a busy person?’ I say if you want to get something done, ask a bartender.” That’s the mantra of Sother Teague, partner of the groundbreaking charity bar Coup, head bartender at Amor y Amargo and co-producer and co-host of popular podcast “The Speakeasy” on Heritage Radio Network. In between everything else, the New York City-based Teague serves as president of the New York chapter of the United States Bartenders’ Guild, wrote his first cocktail book (I’m Just Here for the Drinks, scheduled to be released in August 2018 from Macmillan Publishers) and created an app for bartenders and spirits professionals called Batch. All that is enough to make anyone’s head spin, but Teague thrives…

The land down under is experiencing a wine renaissance. From the explosion of thrilling small-batch producers bucking tradition and pushing boundaries, to the rise in quality and restraint from so many of the big names, it’s high time Aussie wine jumps back on the radar. The sheer diversity of grape varieties and wine styles coming out of Australia’s multitude of winemaking regions is astounding. Dive into the red-fruited and floral Grenache from McLaren Vale, or try a peppery, savory, light-on-its-feet Shiraz from one of Australia’s cooler climes, like the Grampians or Heathcote in Victoria. So called “alternative varieties” are huge down under, particularly in the country’s many warm-climate regions, where heat and drought-resistant vines are proving important. Look for Tempranillo, Montepulciano and Sangiovese bottlings, which are becoming more prevalent, albeit…

SPARKLING WINES 89 Cave Geisse 2013 Brut Nature (Pinto Bandeira). Stony polished white-fruit aromas are lean and clean. This brut nature shows modest heft as it expands on the palate, but mostly this is racy and fit. Yeasty flavors of white pepper and lime finish with a leesy note and stoniness. Wine For The World. — M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 36 89 Cave Geisse 2012 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Pinto Bandeira). Dusty white-fruit aromas are mild and slightly floral. This 100% Chardonnay is sturdy on the palate but a bit foamy. Aged, yeasty flavors of white bread and white fruits are steady on a bready tasting finish. Wine For The World. — M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 45 88 Casa Perini NV Moscatel (Vale Trentino). Attractive aromas of gardenia,…

WHITE WINES 91 Koenig Vineyards 2014 Botrytis Single Berry Select Late Harvest Riesling (Snake River Valley). Coming in at 159g/L residual sugar, this wine is über-aromatic, with notes of dried apricot, pineapple, flowers, and honey, showing layer of complexity. Given the richness of the aromas, the palate is surprisingly deft and light on its feet, displaying a lot of grace and detail to the sugary-sweet flavors. — S.S. abv: 12.8% Price: $ 30 / 375 ml 90 Cinder 2016 Off-Dry Riesling (Snake River Valley). There’s no mistaking the variety here, with its attention-getting aromas of flowers, mandarin orange and ripe peach, along with limezest accents. It drinks off dry, with a plentiful, rich, flavorful palate. There’s loads of enjoyment to be had. — S.S. abv: 12.9% Price: $ 18 88…

ALENTEJO 97 Mouchão 2012 Alentejo. The estate wine from Mouchão is always a great wine. This latest release, almost black in color and five-yearsold, is hugely rich, powered by black fruits and juicy acidity. Made principally from Alicante Bouschet, it shows the power and the aging potential of this variety in the Alentejo. This wine, foot-trodden in open stone lagars, is destined for much longer aging. Drink at the earliest in 2021. Wine In-Motion. — R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 75 93 J. Portugal Ramos 2014 Marquês de Borba Reserva (Alentejo). The Reserva version of the popular Borba brand in Portugal is a dense, powerfully tannic wine. Its juicy black currant and blackberry fruits are suI used with tannins—its dry core surrounded by richness. Hints of dark chocolate and pepper…

JURANÇON SEC 92 Château de Jurque 2015 Emotion (Jurançon Sec). The golden richness of Petit Manseng is very evident in this dry wine. There are the hallmark hints of honey and hugely ripe citrus and grapefruit flavors. They give both power and intensely crisp fruitiness, making this just now ready to drink. Wineberry America LLC. — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 30 89 Château Jolys 2015 Jurançon Sec. Fresh apple and honey aromas give this fruity wine a great start. With its acidity, spice, touch of honey and crisp white fruit, it’s delicious, perfumed and ripe. A full-bodied wine that’s a pleasure to drink now, with food. Baron Francois Ltd. — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 17 88 Château de Jurque 2016 Fantaisie (Jurançon Sec). This wine is young—full of…

BARBERA D’ASTI SUPERIORE 90 Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta 2015 Sant’Emiliano (Barbera d’Asti Superiore). For full review see page 179. abv: 15% Price: $ 33 88 Cà Bianca 2013 Chersi (Barbera d’Asti Superiore). Aromas suggesting tilled soil, sage and black-skinned fruit come together in the glass. On the firm palate, close-grained tannins support mature black plum, clove and a touch of star anise. Drink through 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 29 87 Villa Fiorita 2013 Barbera d’Asti Superiore. This has subdued aromas suggesting blackskinned fruit and baking spice. The straightforward palate evokes raspberry jam, clove and a hint of star anise alongside supple tannins. Enjoy soon. Decanto Wines. — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 25 87 Vinchio-Vaglio Serra 2009 Insynthesis (Barbera d’Asti Superiore). This…

As we close out 2017, it’s natural to indulge in a little crystal ball-gazing for the year ahead. So where is Cognac heading next? Out of all the various spirits category’s, France’s flagship grape brandy has perhaps the haziest outlook right now. It’s not that sales are flagging. According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS), sales of Cognac grew a respectable 7.1% in 2016, particularly among higher-end offerings. But Cognac producers seem a little unsure about how to appeal to American consumers these days. Aft er years of rip-roaring growth in the American whiskey space, particularly Bourbon, an increasing number of Cognacs now seem designed to appeal to the palates of Bourbon-lovers, with more sweet vanilla and spice. Bache-Gabrielsen, for example, debuted its American Oak bottling, aged…

There are very few beer lovers who don’t enjoy a good stout—year-round, sure, but they’re especially hard to resist once the cool winter months arrive. There’s little to compare with the satisfaction that a good, strong stout off ers on a chilly day, filling your palate with robust and decadent flavors and sending that tingling warming sensation down to your core, soothing the soul and heating the body from the inside. There are so many different styles of stouts available that there is almost certainly a bottling for any palate. Though they’re all flavorful, each will vary in intensity, weight, alcohol and overall drinkability. Many consider Russian imperial stouts to be king, with their high alcohol content (usually between 8–12%) and intense, roasted malt profiles. Others might prefer oatmeal stouts,…

The Minnesota wine industry is defined by bleak winters that can dip below minus-30?F and grapes that are hardy enough to thrive anyway. But winter isn’t the only challenge. “Minnesota has relatively short summers,” says Matthew Clark, assistant professor at University of Minnesota. “Spring can be a challenge, as plants may break dormancy and then be greeted with a frost in May that can decimate a crop. And a crop needs to be able to ripen before the first frost events [of fall].” Typical cool-climate grapes like Chardonnay and Riesling might not ripen. Even many French- American hybrids grown throughout the Northeast and Midwest can struggle to survive. Instead, grapes such as Frontenac, La Crescent and Marquette have been developed at the University of Minnesota to withstand such challenging conditions.…

The classic components of a cocktail are alcohol, a sour element (like citrus juice) and a sweet element (like simple syrup). But what about mocktails? That old ratio of two parts alcohol, one part sour, and one part sweet doesn’t quite work without the alcohol. But there’s a formula that does: four parts base, like club soda or iced tea, to go with one part sour and one-half part sweet. The base will play a role in how sweet or sour the finished product is. Tonic water, for example, is slightly bitter, while coconut water is somewhat sweet, which means this formula can make all sorts of drinks. Here are six to start with.…

The name of a wine is much more than an assortment of letters you see on the label. Itís the emblem for everything that goes into producing each bottleóthe continuity and evolution that links yesterday, today, and tomorrow, like the generations of a family. While Loriñón has its roots firmly planted in the historic soil of Rioja Alta, it is a name that also represents the deep care and expertise that have ushered these wines forward to an even better future. Behind LoriÒÛn stands another name you should know: Miguel ¡ngel RodrÌguez, the owner and winemaker of Bodegas VinÌcola Real. For more than a quarter-century, Miguel ¡ngel has specialized in producing estate wines of extraordinary character. His work begins in the vineyard, near the small village of Albelda de Iregua,…

PERSON OF THE YEAR Some individuals who achieve tremendous success in their professional lives develop egos just as prodigious. Jim Clerkin has never fallen into that trap. For him, humility, grace and goodwill have always been paramount. Clerkin is not just president and CEO of Moët Hennessy North America. He also devotes his energy to a multitude of professional and charitable organizations, mentors many employees and youth, and is always generous with his time. “Jim Clerkin has made an indelible mark on the wine and spirits industry,” says Wayne Chaplin, president and CEO of Southern Wine & Spirits, who was Wine Enthusiast’s Person of the Year in 2016. “His success can not only be attributed to his great talent and leadership, but also to his integrity, humility and commitment to…

WINE REGION OF THE YEAR In less than two decades, Southwest France has been transformed into a hotbed of dynamic innovation and new wines. At the same time, it has retained its roots and a history that stretches back into the origins of French winemaking. The Southwest is a wide region. It spans from the Atlantic coast of France in the west almost to the Mediterranean in the east, and from the mountains of central France in the north to the Spanish border in the south. In this vast region, the fourth-largest wineproduction area in France, with 43 different geographical designations and over 300 varieties planted and counting, vineyards appear like islands, relatively isolated from each other. Despite that, they have some commonalities. All of the appellations are steeped in…

SOMMELIER OF THE YEAR ÒWhat’s more impactful than education?” says Chris Tanghe, chief instructor at the Guild of Sommeliers (commonly known as GuildSomm), a nonprofit educational and networking organization for sommeliers and other wine professionals. “I travel to most major U.S. cities and teach classes to 40 wine professionals at a time. In a given year, I will have influenced, to at least some small degree, a few thousand somms, who will then take that knowledge and experience to their guests.” The role of a sommelier is evolving. There are many wine-related businesses that can beneG t from a sommelier’s vast vinous knowledge and wide-ranging skills, like wineries, schools, distributors, importers and retailers. Many sommeliers have also started wine clubs or even become winemakers. Thanks to the popularity of films…

PINOT NOIR 89 Arboleda 2016 Pinot Noir (Aconcagua Costa). Fresh, floral raspberry and currant aromas are woody and spicy as they lead to a racy, balanced palate with good acidity but also a sense of oak resin. Raspberry, red currant and wood spice flavors see oak outlast fruit on the finish. Thiénot USA. — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 25 88 Cono Sur 2015 Bicicleta Pinot Noir (Central Valley). Give this value-priced Pinot Noir its due given that production is nearly 300,000 cases. Aromas of baked cherry, cocoa and baking spices lead to a fresh palate with wiry acidity. Earthy, slightly salty flavors of plum and currant finish steady. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 12 87 Agustinos 2016 Reserva Pinot Noir (Bío Bío Valley). Generic…

CHARDONNAY 96 Ryan Cochrane 2015 Solomon Hills Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This bottling from the San Francisco-based producer is about as Burgundian as California gets. Aromas of honeydew rinds, Meyer lemon pith and honeysuckle meet with briny chalk, chiseled marble and a touch of almond warmth on the nose. The extremely fresh, clean and chalky palate shows stunning texture as well as rounded lemon blossom, sea salt and the faintest butter flavor. Editors’ Choice. — M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 36 95 Benovia 2015 Three Sisters Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). For full review see page 163. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 48 95 Gary Farrell 2015 Russian River Selection Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 163. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 35 95 Metzker Family Estates 2015 Laurent Ritchie…

CHARDONNAY 88 Early Mountain 2016 Quaker Run Chardonnay (Virginia). Lush aromas of pineapple and yellow apple ride over undertones of vanilla, coconut and butter on the nose. Concentrated flavors of pineapple, chamomile, vanilla and apple meld effortlessly on the palate. While the feel is round and silky, bright acidity keeps the balance. The finish is long and smooth. — C.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 38 87 Veramar 2015 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay (Virginia). This wine is nutty on the nose, with faint hints of lemon, vanilla and ghee. More fruit comes through on the palate, boasting lemon, apple and pineapple, with nuts and chamomile adding depth. This straight-forward and balanced wine has a long and harmonious finish. — C.D. abv: 13% Price: $ 25 85 Gray Ghost 2015 Reserve Barrel Fermented…

SAUTERNES 97 Château de Rayne Vigneau 2014 Sauternes. With its apricot and bitter orange flavors, this wine has great concentration, botrytis character and richness. Acidity lends balance to all its beautiful honey notes and intensity. Drink from 2023. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: NA Price: $ NA 97 Clos Haut-Peyraguey 2014 Sauternes. This impressive wine has great intensity and superb apricot and orange flavors. Acidity mingles with its botrytis core and rich, concentrated fruit, striking a fine balance. It will become delicious as it matures. Drink from 2024. Bernard Magrez. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: NA Price: $ 55 96 Château Filhot 2014 Sauternes. With its apricot and honeyed flavors, this is a rich wine. It has intense, ripe fruit and layers of spice and botrytis. A dry core gives…

94 Arnaldo Caprai 2012 25 Anni (Montefalco Sagrantino). Enticing and earthy, this opens with compelling aromas of truK e, tobacco, black-skinned fruit, menthol and a whiff of blue flower. The palate is both structured and elegant, delivering dried morello cherry, prune and pipe tobacco framed in taut fine-grained tannins that give it a firm velvety texture. It’s still tightly wound and needs time. Drink 2022–2032. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 100 92 Arnaldo Caprai 2013 25 Anni (Montefalco Sagrantino). Plum, dark berry and bakingspice aromas slowly emerge on this full-bodied red. The taut spicy palate offers sour cherry, dried blackberry, ground clove and licorice set against a backbone of assertive but fine-grained tannins. It’s still young and primary. Drink after 2025. Wilson Daniels Ltd.…

WHITE WINES 87 Budureasca 2016 Premium Tamâioas? Româneasc? (Dealu Mare). This floral white carries aromas of elderberry, mango, lemon zest and lemongrass on the nose. The palate brings mango, apple and lemon zest, with a clean and crisp finish. Albus Imports LLC. Best Buy. — J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 12 86 Jidvei 2016 Treasure of Transylvania Medium Sweet Gewurztraminer (Tarnave). This medium-sweet wine brings aromas of acacia flowers and lemon lime zest to the fore. In the mouth there are flavors of honeycomb, lemon and acacia flower. The finish is delightful and slightly sweet. Albus Imports LLC. Best Buy. — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 8 85 Budureasca 2016 Origini Sec Sauvignon Blanc (Dealu Mare). Aromas of lemongrass and freshly-cut grass carry to a streamlined, lemondriven palate. It is…

I write about wine for a living, so balance is a familiar concept. But outside my 9-to-5, balance can feel a little more elusive. I’m talking, specifically, about trying to achieve physical equilibrium by following long nights of wine tasting and rich dinners with exercise and healthy eating. Sometimes, the only cure is a hardcore morning sweat session, but no one says it will be easy. To give you a sense, this was my thought process the morning after a long night. Minutes 00:00–5:00: O.K., three miles. I can do this. Twenty-five minutes isn’t that long, and before I know it, I’ll be enjoying that yogurt parfait I’ve been dreaming of since the cab ride home last night. Two minutes has already gone by. I’m onetwelft h of the way…

SPAIN’S GREAT MATCH More than 300 Spanish wines, plus bites from top New York Spanish restaurants, were available at the 24th annual Spain’s Great Match held in New York City, in October. The event also highlighted Spain’s design contributions. INDABA EDUCATION FUND Importer Cape Classics and South Africa-based nonprofit Indaba Education Fund held a fundraiser in New York City, in October. Members of the wine industry came out to support early childhood education in the winelands. WOMEN IN WINE LEADERSHIP SYMPOSIUM This annual New York City event is an opportunity for women in all facets of the industry to network and learn. The theme this year was increasing diversity and innovation.…

The Wine Cabernet Sauvignon Rivero González Blanco (Parras Valley) Sangiovese Cantina LaSelva Sangiovese Bianco (Toscano) Pinotage Mellasat Σ White Pinotage (Paarl) Tempranillo Pradorey El Cuentista (Castilla y León) What It’s Like Initial notes of peach skin, ripe pear and Golden Delicious apple tease your brain into thinking it’s a traditional white, but raspberry comes as a surprise. The texture evokes tannins, which provide an enjoyable mental puzzle as you sip this sumptuous, complex wine. The crystalline color belies the spectrum of flavors that erupt on the palate. Lively and juicy, the bright cherry and red berries normally found in Sangiovese shine through, along with nectarine and floral notes. Texturally intriguing, the first sip is reminiscent of biting an apple. Tropical fruit, ripe banana and bitter almond flavors persist on the…

Take a back seat, fancy desserts. The humble cookie plate is now a feature at a growing number of restaurants. “I wanted to celebrate things from my life, my childhood,” says Dan Kluger, chef/owner at Loring Place. “Growing up, there were always cookies in the house.” The recipes to the right channel those childhood delights, but each cookie is paired with a complementary cocktail to add an adult spin. To get the recipes for all four cookies pictured here, please visit winemag.com/ cookiecocktails Pink Peppercorn Thumbprints Dorie Greenspan, widely regarded as the queen of cookies, gives the classic jam thumbprint an update with white chocolate and piquant pink peppercorns. Save a little extra strawberry jam for the cocktail, a riff on a classic from late bartending legend Sasha Petraske. COCKTAIL…

This classic Coffee Cocktail famously contains no coffee whatsoever. It originally appeared in the 1887 87 cocktail book ok The Bar-Tenders ers Guide by Jerry Thomas. He wrote that the drink looks ok like coffee, which is probably bly how it got its name. Jim Meehan, proprietor ri or of New York City bar PDT, remembers embe rs the first time he made this drink, over a decade ago. “I stood od dumbfounded unde d at the deliciousness ious ss the recipe yielded,” d, he says. “The surprisingly in balanced cocktail was milkshakelike, with chocolate cola notes and dark berry fruit.” COFFEE COCKTAIL From Meehan’s Bartender Manual Ten Speed Press, 2017), by Jim Meehan 1½ ounces VSOP Cognac, preferably Hine H 1½ ounces ruby Port, preferably Quinta do Noval Black…

WINE EXECUTIVE OF THE YEAR When E. & J. Gallo Winery brought on Roger Nabedian in 1986 as a neophyte sales and marketing hire, it was a big boom period for boutique wineries and high-end bottlings. Premium- priced dry, varietal wines in 750-ml bottles were growing fast. But Gallo enjoyed success with a focus on accessible, easy-drinking table wines in magnums and gallon jugs, as well as inexpensive fortified and sweet wines. Today, of course, E. & J. Gallo produces and imports numerous premium and superpremium wines, and owns highly regarded wineries and vineyards in Napa, Sonoma and Washington State. The journey from its Hearty Burgundy brand to estate-grown Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has been monumental. No one outside the Gallo family has had a bigger hand in that transformation…

IMPORTER OF THE YEAR Like many accomplished individuals in the wine business, Michael Quinttus took a winding path to discover his true calling: the creation of VINTUS. Based in Pleasantville, New York, the wine importer and distributer currently represents 40 estates from 10 countries. Born in Germany to wine-loving parents, Quinttus moved with his family to Dayton, Ohio, when he was a young boy. Quinttus later graduated from Ohio State University and then pursued advanced degrees in law and public administration at Yale and Princeton, respectively. What followed were several unfulG lling years of work at big law firms in New York City and Washington, D.C., which led Quinttus to seek a career reboot. A long-simmering passion for wine that began at home, grew in college and blossomed thereafter, drove…

ALBARIÑO 91 Bouza 2017 Albariño (Montevideo). For full review see page 173. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 25 87 Garzón 2016 Reserva Albariño (Uruguay). A mix of tropical fruit, peach pit and apple aromas lead to a sold palate. Basic white-fruit flavors suggest pineapple and a skins-based note of bitterness that persists on the finish. Drink now. PaciG c Highway Wines & Spirits. — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 17 86 Bouza 2016 Albariño (Montevideo). Rich peach and floral tones on the nose have a slight struck-match quality to them. This warmclimate Albariño is ripe and round, with notably low acidity. Sweet honeyed flavors of melon and mango finish heady and chunky. Drink immediately. Elixir Wine Group. — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 25 TANNAT 92 Bouza 2015 B6…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 90 History 2014 Otis Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This wine comes from the state’s oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines, planted in 1957. Light in color, the aromas draw you into the glass with notes of earth, cassis, dried herb and cherry. The cranberry flavors are light and elegant, with a zing of acidity that keeps the interest high. It’s a very pretty expression of the variety, best suited for the dinner table. — S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 75 89 Sheridan Vineyard 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). Aromas of baking spice, orange peel and green herb are followed by wellbalanced fruit and savory flavors. There’s no mistaking the variety or the region that it comes from. It’s a distinctive wine but not for all tastes. — S.S. abv:…

ALENTEJANO 92 Herdade do Esporão 2013 Canto do Zé Cruz Aragonês (Alentejano). For full review see page 171. abv: 14% Price: $ 39 91 Herdade do Esporão 2015 Private Selection Branco (Alentejano). For full review see page 174. abv: 14% Price: $ 28 91 Herdade Grande 2015 Reserva Branco (Alentejano). A short stay (just eight months) in wood has produced a fine, rich and ripe wine. With its toast and butter flavors, touch of honey and opulent character, the wine is rounded and complex. Acidity plays just the right part to make the wine complete. Drink from 2018. M Imports, LLC. — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 35 90 Cortes de Cima 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Alentejano). This ripe tropical-fruit style of Sauvignon Blanc is delicious. Its crisp side with some…

SAINT-ÉMILION 94 Château Destieux 2010 Saint-Émilion. This rich and generous Grand Cru Classé is full of dark fruit and tannins and is ready to drink. It has weight, juicy acidity and black plum and berry flavors. Ripe, with the perfume of Cabernet Franc, it’s entering maturity now and should very drinkable until at least 2025. Maison Barriere USA. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 60 93 Château Chauvin 2014 Saint-Émilion. This is the first vintage of this new purchase by Sylvie Cazes, a leading figure in the Bordeaux wine scene. A classed growth, it’s richly fruity yet structured and firm, with dense tannins and layers of delicious black fruit. With its tannins still well at the fore, it will need to age further, so drink from 2022. Frederick…

VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE 90 Speri 2015 La Roverina (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). Made with organically grown grapes, this single-vineyard bottling opens with enticing scents suggesting pressed violet, woodland berry, a potpourri of culinary spices and a balsamic note. Round and juicy, the smooth palate offers H eshy morello cherry, cinnamon and star anise alongside polished tannins. It’s not very complex but it is delicious. Empson USA Ltd. — K.O. abv: NA Price: $ 17 89 Monte del Frà 2015 Lena di Mezzo (Valpolicella Classico Superiore). Aromas of smoke, grilled herb, scorched earth and eucalyptus lead the nose. While it shows the heat of the vintage, it also has elegance, offering dried black cherry, fig licorice and clove. A hint of almond wraps up the finish while velvety tannins provide supple support.…

WHITE WINES 88 Ouled Thaleb 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Morocco). Medium yellow in the glass, this wine features a nose of citrus, with a touch of floral notes. It is bright on entry, and then fills the mouth with soft tannins and flavors of grapefruit, guava and pineapple that lead to a bright citrus splash on the finish. Nomadic Distribution. — M.D. abv: 13% Price: $ 18 88 Ouled Thaleb 2015 Un-Oaked Chardonnay (Morocco). This wine features a bouquet of peach and rose petal. It is well balanced on the palate, offering flavors of nectarine, lemon and freesia that lead to a floral- and citrus-laced finish. Nomadic Distribution. — M.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 18 87 Ouled Thaleb 2016 Moroccan White Blend (Morocco). Medium yellow in color, this wine has aromas…