Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2017 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Considered sacred since before Biblical times, the olive tree remains treasured. The unique flavor of its fruit is surprisingly versatile. It pairs amicably with sweet flavors (oranges, dates, tomatoes, caramelized onions, fennel), salty foods (capers, feta cheese, anchovies, cured meats), and all kinds of nuts, dairy and fresh herbs. It can provide a punchy blast of contrasting flavor, or be the centerpiece of dishes like tapenade, muffuletta or puttanesca. Green and black olives are the same fruit. Except for a few outliers, a green olive is simply an unripe black olive. All are bitter and inedible when picked, so they’re cured and fermented using brine, salt and/or lye. Like with wine, when you eat an olive, you’re tasting both the fruit and how it was handled. —Nils Bernstein PAIR IT…

Although this drink is very similar to the classic Negroni, a small dose of coconut liqueur adds a subtle tropical note that elevates the flavor profile. Why coconut? Sarah Morrissey drew inspiration from classic holiday film It’s a Wonderful Life, which features actress Donna Reed. “She orders chocolate ice cream from George [Bailey] when they are kids, and he says she should put coconut on it,” says Morrissey. “I love that scene.” —Kara Newman DONNA REED Sarah Morrissey, beverage director, Pig Bleecker, New York City 1 ounce plymouth Gin ¼ ounce Carpano Antica sweet vermouth 1 ounce Campari ¼ ounce Kalani Coconut Rum Liqueur Small glass of Champagne, optional ¼ ounce Kalani Coconut Rum Liqueur In mixing glass, stir together first four ingredients with ice. Strain into rocks glass over…

Kingbird, inside the recently renovated Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC, serves luxurious American cuisine with a French bent. Accordingly, this crémeux, essentially a decadent chocolate pudding, is gilded with winter flavors of pear and hazelnut. CHOCOLATE CRÉMEUX WITH PAN-SEARED PEARS Courtesy Kieu-Linh Nguyen, pastry chef, Kingbird, Washington, DC 3 ounces milk chocolate, finely chopped 3 ounces dark chocolate, finely chopped 4 egg yolks 3 tablespoons sugar 1½ cups half-and-half ½ cup whipping cream 1½ tablespoons Frangelico Pan-Seared Pears (recipe below right) ¹/3 cup toasted hazelnuts, coarsely chopped Combine chocolates in large bowl. In separate large, heat-proof bowl, whisk egg yolks and sugar. In small pot, bring half-and-half to boil. Gradually whisk into egg yolk mixture, then transfer back to pot. Whisking constantly, heat mixture until it registers 180?F on candy…

BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST There’s no denying the pure pleasure and immense gratification that comes from enjoying a perfectly cellared, mature, peakdrinking wine from your collection. But to get there? Oh, the agony. They say the waiting is the hardest part, but have you ever actually tried to buy an iconic or widely recognized, cellar-worthy bottle? Though some people might have good retail connections, as well as the means to afford such prized bottlings, not everyone is so fortunate. And while there are plenty of wines out there that are easy to find and afford, how do you know which ones are worthy of being tucked away for two, five, 10 years or even more? Can you amass a cellar-worthy collection that offers high quality and class without…

100 Salon 2006 Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). This new release from a great vintage for Chardonnay in Champagne is a perfect blanc de blancs, showing a wealth of intensity from the crisp, chalky, mineral tones to the perfumed apple notes. The aromas hint at developing toastiness that adds depth and complexity. The wine is still young and it will age for years. Drink from 2020. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 12% Price: $ 617 96 Domaines Schlumberger 2014 Saering Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace). A touch of lemon balm adds a breezy freshness to the nose, while a pure, bright and precise notion of ripe lemon pervades and takes over the entire palate. On its fringes, delicious hints of chamomile and chervil appear alongside ripe…

DRY RIESLING 94 Dr. Hermann 2015 Steinmetz und Hermann Ürziger Würzgarten Alte Reben Riesling (Mosel). While the nose is plush and tropical, there’s elegance and restraint on the palate of this complex dry Riesling. It’s delicate in body, yet its honeyed lemon and tangerine H avors are bold and penetrating. The finish is long and edged in steel, with a pleasantly astringent kick of lime zest. Beautiful already, it should improve through the next decade. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. — A.I. abv:12% Price:$55 93 Von Schleinitz 2015 Cara Dry Riesling (Mosel). Equal parts earth and fruit, this full-bodied Riesling oI ers loads of penetrating melon, citrus and honey H avors oI set by delicate tones of saI ron and dusty mineral. Dry in style and struck by exhilarating acidity,…

RED BLENDS 95 De Toren 2014 Book 17 XVII (Stellenbosch). Only 95 cases were made of this Bordeauxstyle blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Malbec and 24% Cabernet Franc. It’s a stellar example of the high-end and highly cellarable wines that can come out of South Africa, oozing with depth, concentration and complexity, all in a harmonious, balanced package. It’s dark and brooding right oI the bat, boasting G rm, tight blackberry, cherry and cassis fruit that’s coupled with hints of raspberry sauce, pressed violets and baking spice. The palate is strong and packed with black fruit H avors that lead into a long, evolving G nish of char, espresso bean, cigar and woodspice. Firmly structured and robust in feel, try from 2022–2028, though it could mature well even beyond.…

CHARDONNAY 95 EnRoute 2015 Brumaire Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 121 abv: 14.5% Price: $ 40 95 Lynmar 2015 La Sereinite Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is a velvety smooth, superbly made white with delightful sparks of freshsqueezed lemon, stone and salt. Ginger and lemongrass touches add an exotic quality, enhancing its bright freshness and core of acid-led tension. — V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $ 70 95 Lynmar 2015 Monastery Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Brine and oak accents cradle this impressive wine’s elegant green apple, wet stone and lime notes. Bold and concentrated yet complex, it’s balanced by lively acidity and persistent freshness. — V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $ 55 95 Lynmar 2015 Old Wente Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). With its high-toned sparkle of lemon zest…

RIESLING 93 Cave Spring 2015 Estate Riesling (Beamsville Bench). For full review see page 125. Editors’ Choice abv: 12% Price: $ 18 92 Cave Spring 2015 CSV Estate Bottled Riesling (Beamsville Bench). The low-yielding vines average 35 years of age, and their H avors are subtle yet distinctive. This wine unfolds slowly and almost imperceptibly, with subtle minerality around H avors of citrus pith and rind. It’s tart and racy, with a lick of Key lime through the finish. — P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $ 28 92 Cave Spring 2015 Riesling (Niagara Peninsula). Cave Spring rocks Riesling, and this oI -dry (16g/L) version is sexy and mineraldrenched. It’s a perfect mix of sweet and tangy, the citrus and tree fruits dense with complex phenolic highlights that add to a wine…

Barley is beer’s crucial component. It supplies the sugars that yeast crunches on to create alcohol. But it’s not the only crop in the mix— brewers that seek new ways to set themselves apart are, increasingly, going against the grain. The ground-up movement takes diI erent forms. Last year, Hopworks Urban Brewery partnered with Patagonia to create Long Root Ale, which featured the perennial wheatgrass Kernza. “It has the spiciness of rye with the slight nuttiness of wild rice,” says Brewmaster Christian Ettinger, who adds that it also needs less water than barley. Other ingredients, from oats to spelt, have their own impact on a pint. Here’s the perfect primer on how grains turn an average beer into an extraordinary sip. RICE While rice imparts little flavor, it creates a…

As an ardent defender of the Champagne flute, these are tough times. The headlines pro claim, “The Tragic Flute: Why You’re Drinking Champagne All Wrong.” Sommeliers sneer and say, “Flutes? We’re adults. We use real wine glasses.” Waiving the flag for flutes has brought me notoriety. Whenever an anti-flute missive is published, friends love to tag me and rub it in my face. Most recently? “You don’t use flutes,” says Maggie Henriquez, president and CEO of Krug. “You see, using a flute is like going to a concert with ear plugs.Ó Et tu, Krug? Well, I’m doubling down. The H ute is the ideal glass for Champagne, and I’ve called in a couple experts to help make the case. While H ute haters concede that its shape is ideal for…

Beat the Heat Heat is the ultimate wine assassin. Wine finds its happy place when stored at around 55?F. Warmer temperatures speed up the aging process, while cooler ones can halt it. Additionally, widely fluctuating temperatures can ruin a potentially great bottle over time. Be Cork Conscious Even with the popularity of screw tops, the majority of wine bottles still use traditional corks. Maintaining a relative humidity between 50–80 percent helps keep corks intact. Extended periods of low humidity can dry them out, possibly leading to oxidation. They’re also more likely to crumble when being extracted. Hit the Lights If there’s one thing that wine despises almost as much as heat, it’s light. Ultraviolet rays don’t play nicely with the phenolic compounds in most wines, so keep them apart as…

It is exciting to chart the development of a new wine region. Even more so when that region now makes world-class wines and has defied both ridicule and doubt in doing so. Yes, I am talking about English sparkling wine. The entries hail mainly from the southern English counties of Kent, Sussex and Hampshire but also from the West Country counties of Dorset and Cornwall. The cool but mild climate is well-suited to growing grapes destined for crisp but expressive sparkling wines made in the traditional method. Like most marginal climates, spring frost, poor weather during H owering, rain and hail can all have severe eI ects on yield, but when things work out, the fruit is pristine and precise. The vast majority of the wines submitted are based on…

GRAND CRU PINOT GRIS 96 Domaine Schoffit 2015 Clos Saint-Théobald Rangen Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives Pinot Gris (Alsace). Right now this is still shy on the nose. There is a glint of pear peel and Mirabelle, plus a suggestion of smoke. The palate is equally shy as the principal sensation is that of wonderfully tangy texture, fresh concentrated acidity and balanced sweetness right now. This needs time to develop its undoubtedly rich H avors. The balance is impeccable. Immense power and lasting strength lie at the core of this monumental wine. This is made to last and should be given time in the cellar. Drink 2025–2050. Weygandt-Metzler. — A.K. abv: 13% Price: $ 60 96 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2015 Clos Saint Urbain Rangen de Thann Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). Earth,…

VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE 93 Graziano Merotto 2016 Cuvée del Fondatore Rive di Col San Martino Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). For full review see page 125. abv: 11.5% Price: $ 35 93 Mongarda 2013 Dosaggio Zero (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Here’s a smooth, delicious Prosecco that will satisfy both the novice and the sophisticated wine lover. It opens with lovely aromas of pressed wild H ower, apple and a whiI of pastry dough that follow through to the palate along with pear, tangerine zest and a hint of almond. An elegant mousse and crisp acidity oI set the creamy H avors. It has lingering bone-dry finish. David Bowler Wine. Editors’ Choice. — K.O. abv: 12% Price: $ 24 93 Nino Franco 2016 Vigneto della Riva di San Floriano Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore).…

CABERNET FRANC 94 El Enemigo 2014 Gran Enemigo Chacayes Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). El Enemigo winemaker/owner Ale Vigil is the master of Cab Franc in Mendoza, and this wine tops the charts. AM er some heat on the nose blows oI, chili powder, leather, black-olive and black-fruit aromas settle in. This feels grabby and intense, while roasted, spicy black-plum and blackberry flavors are initially aggressive on the finish before turning more exotic and complex. Drink through 2026; contains 15% Malbec. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. Editors’ Choice. — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 120 93 El Enemigo 2014 Gran Enemigo Agrelo Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). Ripe berry aromas are touched up with cola and rootbeer notes that make this even nicer. A muscular, deeply structured palate is home to herbal…

PINOT GRIS 92 King Estate 2016 Domaine Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 128. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 29 91 Alexana 2016 Terroir Series Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This well-made wine is concise and focused, with pinpoint flavors of cut pear holding the core. Hints of thin red berry and a whiff of tea-tree oil animate the nose. It’s unusual and well made. — P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 32 91 King Estate 2016 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 131. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.6% Price: $ 19 91 Lange 2016 Reserve Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Pinot Gris has been a Lange highlight since the winery was founded in 1987. Fermented in neutral puncheons, this is a distinctive, focused wine, with pretty pear, spicy…

Single malt Scotches—whiskies made from a single distillery—continue to be among of the most sought-aft er spirits around. In addition to some favorite everyday drams, this month also brought a number of rare and limited-edition bottles that collectors will want to add to their shelves. To name a few pours that might grab your attention: The GlenG ddich Gran Reserva 21 Years Old, G nished in rum casks, oI ers enticing cocoa and orange peel sweetness, sipping almost like a cocktail; Glenmorangie’s Extremely Rare 18 Years Old is complex and fruity, G nishing on delicate tinges of violet, cinnamon and brown sugar; and for peat-lovers, The Classic Cask Bunnahabhain 18—a single cask bottling produced at Islay’s Bunnahabhain Distillery— comes well-recommended, with its powerful rush of smoke and oceanic brininess mingled…

SONOMA COUNTY WINE AUCTION The September event, organized by Sonoma County Vineyards, raised a record $5.2 million for children’s literacy. La Crema Estate at Saralee’s Vineyard was host to 500 attendees. 2017 Honorary Chair Barbara Banke W.E. Contributing Editor Virginie Boone and Winemaker Joel Peterson of Ravenswood Winery GREENWICH WINE + FOOD FESTIVAL This three-day Connecticut feast featured chefs, musical acts and more. The Mario Batali Foundation and local parks foundation were the charitable beneficiaries of the September affair. TV Personality Adam Richman, Chefs Mary Giuliani, Mario Batali, Alex Guarnaschelli and Scott Conant Musical performance by Train PRIMETIME EMMY AWARDS he stars were shining in Los Angeles in September. While the awards ceremony was the main event, the Governors Ball was a chance for A-listers to mingle and sip Ferrari…

Being a collector of wine doesn’t just mean stockpiling the rarest, fanciest bottles we can find. It’s also a way to preserve memories. Wine and spirits are souvenirs we can savor to celebrate a person, place or experience. Our editors have all sorts of excellent bottles stashed away, but some of their most beloved are not fancy at all—they just come with a good story. Layla Schlack Senior Editor It took me a while to warm up to whiskey. The journey started one night at a burger joint with its drink menu written on a chalkboard. One name seemed to be written brighter than the others: Defiant Whisky. A quick Google search turned up an article by a food writer I trust, saying she doesn’t like whiskey, but this American…

Whether you’re looking for an unusual gift for a favorite spirits-lover or just want a literal taste of the past, join the growing number of “dusty hunters.” These are people who scour liquor stores, antiques auctions and estate sales for old, long-forgotten liquor bottles. Some are quite valuable; others are intriguing or eye-catching oddities, gathering dust (hence the nickname) while newer models get snatched off the shelves. Edgar Harden, founder and director of the London-based Old Spirits Company, which sells collectible bottlings from around the world (anything from Andy Warhol-era Absolut Vodka bottles to a 1795 Cognac), off ers some pointers for hitting the dusty trail. 1 KNOW WHERE TO LOOK For those who value “the brick-and-mortar” experience, Harden points toward Astor Wines & Spirits in New York City, Flask…

Baron de Chirel and Zalto Glassware Wine Enthusiast 2015 Best of Year MARQUES DE RISCAL BARON DE CHIREL RESERVA 2010 RIOJA One of the oldest and most highly reputed wineries in the premium growing area (Alavesa) of Rioja in Spain. Marqués de Riscal’s considerable worldwide reputation is built on its Rioja Reserva wines. Produced only in the best vintages in limited scale, Baron de Chirel is aged between 18 to 24 months, in Bordeaux-style French oak barrels, then bottled and left to round off for no less than 2 years before it is released. Its dark-cherry hue is imbued by aromas of oak and dark-berried fruit. In the mouth, it’s fresh and smooth, with soft, polished tannins. Complex and elegant, this wine’s long, balanced finish satisfies. $75 Learn more at…

Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Managing Editor/Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Tasting Manager Alexander Peartree, Senior Tasting Coordinator Fiona Adams, Tasting Coordinator Carrie Dykes, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear…

BRUT 100 Louis Roederer 2008 Cristal Vintage Brut (Champagne). This latest incarnation of the famous brand is a superb wine. It is on par with, maybe even better than, the already legendary 2002. Its balance is impeccable: Apple and citrus H avors working with the tight minerality to give a textured yet fruity wine. Produced from Roederer’s own vineyards which are mainly biodynamic, the wine has its own intense purity and crispness. It has amazing potential and is likely to age for many years. Drink from 2020. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 12% Price: $ 250 96 Mailly Grand Cru 2002 Les Echansons (Champagne). The producer held this wine back from release because it came from such a great ageworthy vintage—this is well worth the…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 92 Marqués de la Concordia 2011 HZ Abascal Vineyard (Ribera del Duero). Ripe, earthy aromas of baked berry fruits, cassis and licorice lead to a chewy, stout palate. Oaky H avors of ripe blackberry and cassis are rooty and leathery, while this tastes of chocolate and G g on a broad G nish. Drink through 2023. The Haciendas-Company. — M.S. abv: 15% Price: $ 50 91 Díaz Bayo 2011 Francisco Díaz Bayo Reserva (Ribera del Duero). Raisin and prune aromas are components of the nose on this ripe Ribera del Duero that oI ers additional notes of G g and chocolate. A H eshy, thick palate deals earthy black-fruit, prune and spicy H avors prior to a chunky, chewy G nish. Drink through 2024. Classical Wines. —…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 90 Prophecy 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). For full review see page 135. Best Buy. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 14 90 Two Rivers 2016 Convergence Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). This is a solid example of a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: Bright and fruit forward with attractive stone fruit and lemon verbena notes on the nose, while lemon-lime popsicle carries on the palate. The body shows some weight and a slippery texture to keep all that acid in check. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. — C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 20 89 Goose Bay 2015 Kosher Sauvignon Blanc (South Island). There’s more to this wine than just citrus and grass. On the nose it’s floral and nutty, with a hint of ginger. The palate shows more nuttiness alongside waxy lemon, herbs and…

CHARDONNAY 91 Ashan 2016 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Aromas of candy corn, spice and almond butter are followed by full-bodied, tropical-fruit flavors that show a pleasing sense of richness and intensity. It’s a delicious example of the variety, with a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. — S.S. abv: NA Price: $ 25 90 Columbia Crest 2015 Reserve Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills). Aromas of butter, vanilla, corn silk and tropical fruit lead to barrelforward, oak-laden pineapple flavors that intertwine through the finish. For the style, it’s well done but the oak is pretty intense. — S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 26 90 Gorman 2016 Old Scratch Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Aged six months in neutral French oak, this oI ers aromas of spice, pineapple and almond skin. Full bodied, the palate is…

Generally, when wine lovers are beginning their foray into the world of great beer, they start with the brews of a country known for its rich beer heritage and reputation for outstanding quality, such as Belgium. The most popular introduction into Belgianstyle beers is witbiers, also known as white or wheat beers. Given their lighter appearance, lively effervescence, moderate alcohol and mellow though complex aroma and flavor pro- G les, they are a great introduction to the masterfully craft ed brews to be enjoyed from around the world. From there people usually move on to other styles, from pale ales to saisons, bière bruts to tripels. But once you’ve experienced the bounty that each style has to offer, including expressions from other countries and domestic craft brewers, it’s time to…

It’s not that eating a bowl of pasta by oneself on the couch is crushingly lonely by definition, but there are details that can make it so. Almost spilling tagliatelle on the upholstery as you reach for the remote? Assuming there’s a new Project Runway to enjoy with your meal only to realize the latest episode isn’t available yet on demand? Oh damn, it’s Saturday night? It just doesn’t help. I found myself thinking about this situation a lot when I relocated last year. In addition to curbing what my doctor called a “very severe” Vitamin D deficiency, my move from New York to Los Angeles allowed me to live alone for the first time, which meant I potentially had countless couch meals for one in my future. To keep…