Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2017 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Value wines of great quality from every corner of the globe await the adventurer willing to test his/her palate. When the ancient Greek philosopher Diogenes claimed, “What I like to drink most is wine that belongs to others,” it’s possible he didn’t have the modern wine drinker’s affordable bounty at his avail. Today, value wines of great quality from every corner of the globe await the adventurer willing to test his/her palate but unwilling to break the bank. Perhaps the wine world’s most exciting and dynamic category for their breadth and qualityto- price ratio, well-priced wines are the focus of our annual Top 100 Best Buys list on page 46. Culled over the year by our tasting team from more than 20,000 wines sipped and surveyed, this list offers impressive…

As we enter the season of chilly weekends and visits from relatives, lingering over a cozy home brunch has more appeal. At Barano in Brooklyn, New York, Albert Di Meglio applies his Southern Italian know-how to make the perfect lazy-morning breakfast bowl. Chock full of grains and vegetables, all topped with runny eggs, it transitions right into lunch or dinner. Don’t worry, you’re still allowed to eat in your pajamas. BREAKFAST BOWL Adapted from Albert Di Meglio, chef/owner, Barano, Brooklyn, NY 4 ounces broccoli rabe 1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 3 garlic cloves 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 cups cooked farro 4 eggs, sunny side up Giardiniera pickled vegetables Roasted mushrooms, preferably King Trumpet Black kale, cut into ribbons and tossed with Italian vinaigrette Bomba Aioli, for garnish (see recipe…

This straightforward drink has the DNA of a classic Manhattan: rye whiskey sweetened with a bit of fortified wine. In this case, however, PX Sherry is used instead of sweet vermouth. Nonino, an herbaceous Italian amaro, adds complexity and a hint of citrus that’s nicely echoed by the orange-peel garnish. VELVET TOUCH Courtesy Dave Castillo, bar manager, Truss & Twine, Palm Springs, CA 2 ounces Redemption Rye ¾ ounce Amaro Nonino Quintessentia ¼ ounce Hidalgo Pedro Ximénez Sherry Orange peel, for garnish In mixing glass, combine all ingredients except garnish with ice. Stir well, then strain into chilled coupe glass. Twist orange peel over top of drink to express its oils. Garnish drink with peel. PX SHERRY Getting ready for Thanksgiving? Pick up a bottle of Pedro Ximénez Sherry, oft…

For full nominee descriptions, go to winemag.com/WSA2017nominees PERSON OF THE YEAR Marius Berlemann Global Head Wine & Spirits, Director, ProWein Deborah Brenner Founder & President, Women of the Vine & Spirits Jim Clerkin President & CEO, Moët Hennessy North America Leslie Rudd Founder & CEO, Leslie Rudd Investment Company Carolyn Wente CEO, Wente Family Estates WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR Christophe Baron Founder, owner and winemaker at Cayuse, Horsepower, No Girls and Hors Catégorie in Walla Walla, Washington Philippe Bascaules Renowned winemaker for top houses on two continents, Château Margaux and Inglenook in Napa Valley Deirdre Heekin Winemaker and proprietor of Vermont’s La Garagista winery Hans Terzer Master winemaker for St. Michael-Eppan in Alto Adige, Italy Arnaud Weyrich Winemaker at Roederer Estate, craft ing some of the state’s best bubblies EXECUTIVE…

Nowhere is the American dream more alive than in the hearts of immigrants, who overcome countless obstacles to strive for better lives in this country. In California vineyards, many men and women of Mexican heritage toil their entire work lives in the fields so that their children can achieve their dreams. In the North Coast, there are enough winemakers to power the Mexican- American Vintners Association. And the Central Coast is home to a growing number of immigrants and descendants who’ve moved from the vineyards into the cellars to make wine. Their stories are poignant reminders of how bravery, hard work and talent are still the primary keys to achieve success. Felipe Hernandez The Trailblazer “I started in the field, and I’m still in the field,” says Felipe Hernandez, who,…

Whether the Finger Lakes, Long Island, Hudson Valley or beyond, the best wines in New York are still made by small, typically family-owned wineries with limited technological shortcuts and in miniscule volume. To put production figures into perspective, rising stars in the Finger Lakes like Nathan Kendall make less than 4,000 cases a year. The regional heavyweight, Hermann J. Wiemer, produces about 17,000 cases annually. Yet even combined, these efforts are hardly a drop in the bucket when compared to large-scale American producers who make upward of 10 million cases a year. While great wines can be made many ways, there’s distinct value in wines made carefully in small quantities, directly reH ecting the terroir, vintage and philosophies of their makers. Winemaker Fred Merwath’s Rieslings at Hermann J. Wiemer reveal…

CHARDONNAY 89 Concha y Toro 2016 Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay ( Limarí Valley ). Oaky aromas of bacon and ham blend with vanilla on the nose of this plump, melony wine. Flavors of resiny oak, Animal Cracker cookies and melon turn overtly spicy on the finish that includes a hint of clove. Excelsior Wines. — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 22 89 Montes 2015 Alpha Chardonnay ( Casablanca Valley ). Aromas of white peach and apple come with mild oak notes. This feels melony and full, with its body weight dictated by tropical fruits. Briny, salty tropical fruit and corn flavors finish with a lasting note of oak. Guarachi Wine Partners. — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 22 88 Arboleda 2016 Chardonnay ( Aconcagua Costa ). Pleasant apple, peach…

CHARDONNAY 88 Le Jade 2016 Chardonnay ( Pays d’Aude ). Medium-intense notes of golden apple skin, lime peel and wild yellow flowers are graced by a hint of gingery spice. The medium-weight palate is slightly round and creamy, but not overly so, with a generous wood-grilled-apple flavor that lingers on the toasty finish. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. — L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 13 88 Les Collines du Bourdic 2016 Le Prestige Chardonnay ( Pays d’Oc ). This wine is toasty and rich upfront, with decadent aromas of cedargrilled apple and peach pit that are graced with hints of garrigue and gardenia. The floral character gains intensity on the palate, before giving way to fresh fruit flavors of apple slices and lemon pith. It’s well balanced and clean…

Berry-based liqueurs don’t oft en get the respect they deserve. For many years, they weren’t regarded as much more than sticky sweeties—perhaps poured into a tiny cordial glass at dessert time—since it was hard to stomach more than an ounce or two of the stuff. Today, spirits producers are emphasizing the character of the fruit itself; some are even dialing back on the sugar— a welcome change. Two particular bottlings reviewed in this issue merit a shout-out as examples of the direction fruit liqueurs are capable of taking. The first is St. George’s Raspberry Liqueur, which is barely sweet at all. It’s made with a mix of raspberry brandy and raspberry juice, and has a surprising sour cherry and lemon curdlike acidity that sets the mouth watering. Another bottle worth…

WINEMAG.COM See more snapshots @WineEnthusiast annaleeiijima Contributing Editor Washington looks mighty good on my coworkers @wineenthusiast. Grateful to @wa_state_wine for sharing some incredible wines, ciders and local fare AnneInVino Contributing Editor A taste of cider @FinnriverCider #WEinWA #WEmedia2017 @WineEnthusiast @Wa_State_Wine angelarosekahn Tasting Coordinator @sybil_strum [co-founder and CEO] #elegant #ladyinwhite #sunset #wetaste #weinwa #wemedia17 #seattle #wawine juliaglea Digital Creative Director The blues WA Wine bus. Beautiful Woodinville. #wemedia17 #wawines @bigmavericks. nilsbernstein Contributing Food Editor Good living: @wineenthusiast retreat with #blueberry upside-down cake from @tomdouglasco at @finnriver in #chimacum. #WAwine #wemedia2017 #WEinWA marinavataj Digital Managing Editor When the 1987 library wine from @woodwardcanyon is drinking so well that simply snapping a photo of the bottle head on just isn’t enough elyseestrella Social Media Coordinator Rockfish and squash blossom #WEinWA #WEmedia17 #WAwine #teamgreen…

It seems like oak has always been the wood of choice for wine barrels, but redwood was once popular in California, as was chestnut in Europe. Whatever the barrel, winemakers say it shouldn’t be the primary flavor in the wine. Rather, they are meant to add “spice.” If that’s the case, then there’s a new spice in town: acacia wood. Winemakers have discovered that judicious use of acacia barrels during production adds a floral note, improved texture and less of a “woody” taste. We take a look at what this wine is all about. WHO’S USING ACACIA? Acacia, which comes from forests in northern France, is sawed rather than split into staves, and it’s used by a handful of wineries worldwide. It’s employed primarily for Sauvignon Blanc, and producers in…

Finding use for food waste is a hot topic in the culinary world, so why not turn wine waste like sediment, lees and must into food? Well, it turns out there’s a long tradition behind just that, with some modern-day adaptations as well. Here’s what chefs and winemakers are cooking up. THE PRODUCT Lees Lees, the deposit of spent yeast aft er fermentation and aging, has a long history in Chinese cooking. The best known dish that uses it is a braised chicken from northern Fujian, which is used to celebrate birthdays. As a marinade or braising liquid, lees add umami flavors. Many chefs reach for it to marinate steak and game meats. For example, Canadian Chefs Patrick Gayler (The Terrace, Mission Hill Family Estate, Kelowna) and Derek Bendig (Fairmont…

Eric Wareheim has a lot to celebrate. The comedian has been on a sold-out tour to mark the 10th anniversary of sketch comedy show Tim and Eric Awesome Show, Great Job! Wareheim is also a staple on Aziz Ansari’s Netflix show, Master of None. He now has something else to toast: his own wines. We talked with Wareheim about his label, Las Jaras Wines. “Wouldn’t it be funny if we made a Sweet Berry Wine?…Why don’t we make it good?” Did you have an “aha” moment that turned you from a wine drinker into a wine lover? I think it was a Morgon [Cru Beaujolais]… that Selection Massale sent. I drank it, and there was something so magical about it. How did you start Las Jaras? We had a funny…

Ascommon as the carrot is, it’s also underappreciated. You know that they’re delicious raw, roasted, pickled and puréed into a soup, but don’t stop there. Carrots are also at home in croquettes, salsa, gnocchi, savory soufflés and even ice cream. Younger carrots are generally sweeter and more flavorful. When you can, buy smaller carrots with the tops attached. Young tops taste like a cross between parsley and carrot ; they can be used in pesto (see winemag.com/recipe/breadsalad- with-carrot-top-pesto) and other herb sauces. PAIR IT Caryn Benke, beverage director at Ava Gene’s in Portland, Oregon, says “With raw, I lean toward whites with a balance between fruit and minerality, like Ligurian Vermentino, Arneis from Piedmont or Grüner Veltliner from Alto Adige or Austria.” For carrots that are cooked a little but…

This forward-thinking classification gives French producers the freedom to source the very best grapes from any vineyard in France, which they can use to create exciting, single variety wines or inspired, fascinating blends. Vin de France wines are an invitation to try original French grapes. Varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay and Malbec have found international fame but their roots are firmly planted in France, their country of origin. Thanks to Vin de France, wine aficionados can enjoy a taste of French history combined with plenty of choice: alongside the classic, well-established French varieties, wine growers within this creative category have the freedom to work with lesser-known indigenous grapes, offering French wine lovers true diversity in their drinking habits. Curious to try a Colombard-Sauvignon…

RIESLING 90 Poet’s Leap 2016 Riesling ( Columbia Valley ). This wine’s aromas are bright, with honeysuckle, ripe peach, mandarin orange, slate and lime zest notes. It drinks just offdry, with abundant stone fruit flavors, mouthwatering acidity and a balance that’s spot-on. — S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 20 89 Pacific Rim 2016 Sweet Riesling ( Columbia Valley ). This wine leaves no doubt about the variety, with its freshly peeled orange and jasmine notes. The palate is sweet yet not cloying, with impeccable balance. For those looking for a wellpriced sweet wine, look no further. Best Buy. — S.S. abv: 8.5% Price: $ 11 89 Pacific Rim 2015 Solstice Vineyard Riesling ( Yakima Valley ). Vibrant diesel, orange rind, white flower and dried apricot aromas lead to dry stone…

SAINT-AMOUR 90 Florent Descombe 2015 Saint-Amour . This wine comes from the most northerly of the Beaujolais cru villages as it merges gently in Burgundy’s Mâcon region. The wine is structured and firm, but with bright red-cherry fruit and acidity. It will age and be best from 2018. Gourmet Food & Wine International. — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 40 88 Château de Lavernette 2015 Le Chatelet ( Saint-Amour ). Saint-Amour is the most northern of the Beaujolais cru villages, close to Pouilly-Fuissé. Its specialty is structured, rich wine like this. It is a ripe wine, full of black fruits and dense tannins. Still young, it is a style of Beaujolais that needs to age. Drink from 2019. Vintage ’59 Imports. — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 45 87 L.…

BARBERA D’ASTI SUPERIORE 92 Bava 2013 Stradivario ( Barbera d’Asti Superiore ). Intriguing aromas of forest floor, dark berry, new leather and crushed herb lead the nose of this wine. The savory, firm palate offers succulent Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and white pepper flavors, with refined tannins and a backbone of firm acidity. A smoky note closes the finish. Wine Wave. — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ NA 89 Castello Gabiano 2011 Adornes ( Barbera d’Asti Superiore). This dense, savory wine has tobacco, black-skinned berry and red plum aromas and licorice, blackberry jam and black pepper flavors. Fine-grained tannins provide support. Drink through 2022. Esprit du Vin. — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 41 89 Il Cascinone 2014 d’Annona ( Barbera d’Asti Superiore). For full review see page…

With fall in full swing, drinking preferences oft en trend toward more robust and full-flavored selections than those we typically enjoy during the summer. The holidays are also just around the corner, and family and friends will be gathering, so it’s best to be prepared with a fridge stocked full of chilly weather’s best friend: Imperial IPAs. Imperial IPAs are basically India pale ales kicked up to 11— more malts, more alcohol and most importantly, more hops. The result is a complex, strong sipping beer with IBUs, or international bittering units, climbing above 60 and, in some cases, well beyond at upward of 100. Imperial IPAs are perfect for the season. They lend themselves wonderfully to Thanksgiving fare, especially sweet potatoes, savory stuffing and even turkey—they offer assertive earthy flavors…

In 2007, my father dropped dead while standing in a lift line at a ski resort. I heard a similar refrain from a lot of well-intentioned people, “At least he died doing something he loved.” Which was no consolation to me because, well, dead is dead. I was upset and cynical, mostly because my dad had just retired and looked forward to years of travel with my mother. She posed a question: Would I travel with her instead? I said yes, though we weren’t close at the time. Fortunately, there was wine. Starting with a stint at a Chicago bottle shop, I had indoctrinated my parents into the world of wine. It was there to drink, of course, but also to help guide our travel destinations. Our first trip was…

HARVEST EAST END More than 20 Long Island wineries converged on the North Fork on August 5. Harvest East End, organized by Long Island Wine Country, featured live music and oysters galore. The theme was “Back to Our Roots,” an homage to the region’s winemaking pioneers, and proceeds went to sustainable viticulture and agriculture. ROSÉFEST NAPA VALLEY The rosé craze continues unabated, with Napa wineries getting in on the action. The June RoséFest saw around 30 wineries pouring pink at the newly renovated Sterling Winery in Calistoga. Attendees were also treated to hors d’oeuvres from local restaurants. WINE & WEED SYMPOSIUM Members of California’s wine and cannabis industries gathered in Santa Rosa to discuss how the latter’s legalization for recreational use will affect the former. The August event included seminars,…

Everything may be bigger in Texas, but the state’s wines can be surprisingly light on their feet. With many areas that are hot and dry, the state shows an affinity for Old World varieties common to regions such as Southern France and Spain. Wine isn’t new to Texas. The first grape vines can be traced to the 1600s. Its modern winemaking era began with plantings in the 1970s in West Texas, but the majority of the state’s grapes are now grown in the Texas High Plains American Viticultural Area (AVA). Located in the northwestern part of the state, its sheer size provides plenty of opportunity. “This truly is a winemaker’s paradise,” says John Rivenburgh, winemaker at 1851 Vineyards. “Hundreds of varietals, six or so microclimates creating neverending options for a…

Imagine a French wine region outside of Burgundy where passionate vignerons make scintillating, refined Pinot Noirs from complex terroirs. Imagine further that many of the region’s delicious but unappreciated red wines sell in the U.S. for $20–40 per bottle. Well, imagine no more. Welcome to the new generation of Alsace Pinot Noirs. Top Alsace Pinot Noir producers perform precise vineyard work to create concentrated, well-balanced reds that pair well with grilled wild salmon or veal chops. Before you run out and buy a bottle, take this quick quiz to enhance your appreciation of Alsace’s emerging reds. 1 Outstanding Alsace Pinot Noirs can only come from limestone bedrock sites covered with well-drained limestone-rich marls and rocky scree soils. True False FALSE While many of Alsace’s top reds come from limestone-rich terroirs,…

Power, it seems, makes great headlines. Along California’s Central Coast, the Santa Lucia Highlands and Paso Robles have built critical acclaim and success on the backs of their massively powerful wines. In the warm environs of Paso Robles, big and beautiful face-punchers are made from traditional Bordeaux and Rhône grape varieties, with Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah typically at the core. About 75 miles to the northwest, close to the cool air of the Monterey Bay, the style of the Santa Lucia Highlands tends toward rich, ripe Pinot Noir and lush Chardonnay. Many of these wines are undeniably delicious. They’re attention grabbers on critics’ panels and dinner tables. Most are expertly balanced, with enough acidity and structure to hold up the juicy fruit, so there’s no wonder about why they’ve done…

CHARDONNAY 94 Cebada 2014 Chardonnay ( Santa Ynez Valley ). From a vineyard that’s northwest of the already very coastal Sta. Rita Hills, this racy and unique bottling shows clean precise lines of grapefruit pith, almond and key lime pie on the nose. There’s a vibrant coil of acidity driving through the palate, with flavors of lime, lemongrass and lime skins, wrapped in a chalky crisp texture. It will age with grace or pair perfectly with sushi today. — M.K. abv: 12.8% Price: $ 39 94 Chanin 2015 Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay ( Sta. Rita Hills ). Honeydew, white peach, honeysuckle, sea salt and toast make for a fairly exuberant nose on this bottling by Gavin Chanin from the region’s iconic property. There is a savory salt character right away…

WHITE WINES 89 Château d’Ollières 2016 Prestige ( Coteaux Varois en Provence ). This is a generous wine, finely balanced and with great fruit. It has a touch of spice to balance the lively acidity and green crisp fruits. A waM of Mediterranean herbs passes over this ripe, generous wine. Drink from late 2017. Rising Wine Domains. — R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 27 88 Château d’Ollières 2016 Coteaux Varois en Provence . The Ollières vineyard is set at the heart of a 1,500-acre estate close to the Sainte Victoire mountain. This white wine is fruity, fragrant and with plenty of tangy acidity. It is liM ed by the citrus and filled out with the green plums. Drink from late 2017. Rising Wine Domains. — R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $…

BIERZO 93 Casar de Burbia 2013 Tebaida Mencía ( Bierzo ). Dark, smoky, oaky aromas of tobacco, leather and black fruits lead to a palate that’s muscular, tannic and solid as a pile of rocks. Cool, earthy black-fruit flavors include woodspice and dark-chocolate notes. This Mencía from a cold year is flush, rugged and dry on the finish. Drink through 2025. Misa Imports. Editors’ Choice. — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 76 92 Losada 2015 Altos de Losada Viñedos Viejos Pequeñas Parcelas Mencía ( Bierzo ). Dark aromas of graham cracker, blueberry, prune and creamy oak push the ripeness meter to high. This Mencía feels tight and a bit tannic, but also lush and a mile deep. Woody, smoky blackberry flavors finish with firm acidity, balance, depth and residual oak…