Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2017 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

There’s no better way to invite fun and experimentation than an at-home tapas party. Small plates and by-the-glass dining is a hot trend in restaurants nationwide, and bringing that concept home to your guests is a perfect way to challenge their palates and keep the night lively. By offering multiple flavors, dishes and pours at the party, you’re ensuring there’s something for everyone, while at the same time encouraging a no-rules pairing celebration that might yield some surprising results. Ready to make it happen? We’ve got the recipes, wine pairings and tips for you on page 86, presented by tapaslovers (and part-time Spain residents) Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, our Lifestyle and Entertaining Editors. From top chefs nationwide, these updated classics (think a deconstructed tortilla Española) offer flavors that will…

Most Americans know sardines in lovethem- or-hate-them canned form, but coastal cultures around the world, from Italy, Spain and Portugal to India and Japan, eat them fresh. That way, this small fish—actually comprising several species in the Clupeidae family—is firmer and less fishy than the canned version, comparable to mackerel. If you find fresh sardines, have your fishmonger clean, gut and scale them. Then, season and char them on a hot grill for two minutes per side. They’re difficult to overcook, so they’re perfect for the grill. “Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a notthat- good lobster.” —Ferran Adriˆ PAIR IT To cut through the rich fish, try high-acid coastal white wines like Albariño from Rías Baixas, Muscadet, Vermentino from Southern Italy’s coast, Santorini Assyrtiko and…

Honey’s sensitive nose will identify infected vines long before the pest can spread. For many New World producers, sustainable winemaking has started to look like an animal farm, thanks to a wave of critter-driven approaches that are becoming popular in vineyards. “Animals are an essential part of the winemaking. They close the circle,” says Christophe Baron of Cayuse Vineyards in Walla Walla, Washington. Baron uses Belgian draft horses to plow his densely planted vineyard rows. The plowng keeps weeds down, says Baron, and the horses “deliver a more gentle pressure on the dirt than a tractor does. Less compact soil means more room for nature’s microorganisms to nourish the vines.” In Napa Valley’s Rutherford appellation, Stephanie Honig, of Honig Vineyard & Winery, is training the new family dog, Honey, to…

This might look like a straightforward roast beef sandwich, but it’s really a celebration of the onion. Here, they’re roasted, pickled and fried, to give you a full range of onion-eating experiences. If you’re vegetarian, you can swap out the roast beef for cauliflower, broccoli, seitan or whatever you have. Or you could make a giant papier-mache onion, but the sandwich is probably easier. WINE PAIRING Fabien Collonge 2015 L’Aurore des Côtes (Chiroubles) No. 7 Beverage Director Katherine Pangaro says she recommends this elegant bottling because “the vintage has the structure and funk needed to support a sandwich with this much crazy, but [it’s] light enough for lunch, in case you have to go back to work after.” DON’T CRY FOR ME ARGENTINA Adapted from A Super Upsetting Cookbook About…

PATATAS BRAVAS paired withEL COTO CRIANZA RIOJA DOCA PATATAS BRAVAS, or simply “BRAVAS” are one of the most popular and wine friendly dishes in Spain´s gastronomy. Very simple, flexible, tasty, but at the same time a challenge within the country to reinvent this very old and traditional recipe. From classic cube sliced potatoes, to the most “gourmet” presented dishes, the “bravas” (“brave, fearless” in old Castilian) are one of the pillars of the “tapas” menu. INGREDIENTS: 2 big potatoes Parsley Extra virgin olive oil BRAVA SAUCE Extra virgin olive oil 3 garlic cloves 3 ìguindillaî peppers (Tamer options are paprika, chili powder, cayenneÖ) 9 oz of peeled and de-seeded tomatoes Sherry vinegar Salt Sugar White pepper AIOLI SAUCE High-quality extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove 1 egg yolk…

RIESLING 90 Anthony Nappa 2016 New York Riesling ( Finger Lakes ). Seductive H oral notes of violet and lavender persist throughout this juicy revitalizing Riesling. It’s elegantly oI dry, balancing honey-tangerine and pineapple sweetness against crisp lime and lemon acidity. The finish is pleasantly persistent. — A.I. abv: 11.6% Price: $ 18 90 Keuka Spring 2016 Humphrey’s Vineyard Riesling ( Finger Lakes ). Crushed stones and river rocks take center stage in this elegant oI -dry Riesling. It’s gorgeously mineral, yet also anchored against a backdrop of crisp cutting yellow-peach, tangerine and lemon flavors. It’s a zesty, invigorating wine with a clean but persistent finish. — A.I. abv: 10.7% Price: $ 22 90 Keuka Spring 2016 Semi Dry Riesling ( Finger Lakes ). Peach and blossom notes abound on…

2013 BAROLO 98 Brezza 2013 Cannubi ( Barolo ). One of the best expressions from the classic Cannubi vineyard area, this fragrant red is all about G nesse, opening with enticing scents of perfumed berry, iris, rose, chopped herb, baking spice and new leather. The vibrant palate boasts structure as well as an almost ethereal elegance, delivering succulent red cherry, crushed strawberry, cinnamon and licorice wrapped in reG ned tannins. Bright acidity lends impeccable balance. Drink from 2021 through 2043. Oliver McCrum Wines . Cellar Selection . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 60 98 Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2013 Monvigliero ( Barolo ). Always the G rm’s showstopper and one of the best expressions of this celebrated vineyard, the 2013 doesn’t disappoint. It opens with alluring scents of wild…

“Mezcal is the most complex spirit in the world,” begins Mezcal, a new book on the subject by Emma Janzen. Certainly, it’s a most complex category, as we found sorting through this month’s reviews. This agave spirit from Mexico, often described as a smoky, rustic cousin to Tequila, has seen quite the explosion as of late. With demand on the rise both in bars and on retail shelves, production more than doubled between 2011 and 2016, Janzen notes. For consumers, this is amazing news. Even just a couple of years ago, if you wanted to sample mezcal, you only needed to know one label: Del Maguey, the first company to bring mezcal to the attention of North American drinkers. (While not reviewed this month, Del Maguey’s excellent bottlings remain among…

Had I never been told differently, I would have believed Gorgona was just another beautiful island in the Tuscan archipelago. On the boat, with closed eyes, my face is turned toward the sunshine. Seagulls cry overhead, and the warm breeze off the Ligurian Sea passes over me. But as I step oI the boat, a uniformed official conG scates my passport. And when I eat lunch in the cantina, my penne rosso comes with a plastic fork, my espresso in a plastic cup. Gorgona, aft er all, is a prison. In fact, it’s the last of Italy’s penal colonies, where about 70 men in the later years of their sentences work on the prison farm. I’ve come to meet the inmates behind the island’s lone export, Gorgona white wine, produced…

CALIFORNIA DREAMS One week apart, BottleRock Napa Valley and Auction Napa Valley celebrate the region’s love affair with wine and food. BottleRock brought thousands together for three days of music and more. On the culinary stage, Martha Stewart cooked with Macklemore and Ryan Lewis, and Ayesha Curry rapped a recipe. At Auction, 900 revelers raised $15.7 million for local charities, Francis Ford Coppola cooked gnocchi, and singer-songwriter Leon Bridges rang out the night. PRETTY IN PINK La Nuit en Rosé, of which Wine Enthusiast is a sponsor, returned to New York City for a third year. Five thousand pink-clad consumers and members of the industry gathered on a yacht to sample bites from celebrity chefs and sip rosé all day. WOMEN OF WINE Wine Enthusiast Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa joined…

What defines Washington State wine? That’s the question the state has been trying to answer as it grows from its infancy—most vineyards have been planted in the last 40 years—into its adolescence as a wine-growing region. This month’s series of Washington reviews provides no easy answer. Top scoring wines include Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeauxstyle blends, Rhône-style blends, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Malbec and Merlot. Oh, and there are quality rosés and ice wines mixed in there too. Why so much diversity? There are more than 40 winegrape varieties planted in Washington, and many have shown an affinity for the region. Looking at why that is, it’s important to understand that the Columbia Valley— Washington’s largest growing region—is far from monolithic. Taking up nearly a third of the land…

RÍAS BAIXAS 90 As Laxas 2016 Albariño ( Rías Baixas). Light in color and mellow on the nose, with leesy notes, this always-reliable Albariño is fresh and kicking with acidity. Apple and peach flavors carry over to a plump finish with lasting stone-fruit and melon notes. Frontier Wine Imports . — M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 22 90 La Caña 2014 Navia Albariño ( Rías Baixas ). For full review see page 108. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 32 90 Terras Gauda 2016 O Rosal ( Rías Baixas). Lightly briny citrus aromas are typical of this Albariño-led blend. The chunky palate is acidic and driven, tropical with flavors of passion fruit and kiwi. A plump finish is slightly oily in feel and briny in flavor. Hidalgo Imports, LLC . — M.S.…

GRÜNER VELTLINER 94 Geyerhof 2016 Rosensteig Grüner Veltliner ( Kremstal ). An immensely savory nose immediately hints at an intense wine, with salty miso and tangy, peppery arugula. The palate turns the flavor volume up, with the spicy intensity brightened by lemon freshness and a textured but toned body. A stony saltiness edged with white pepper makes this moreish and irresistible for a lasting, powerful but very authentic Grüner experience. Blue Danube Wine Co . — A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 20 93 Geyerhof 2016 Stockwerk Grüner Veltliner ( Kremstal ). Aromatic notions of green and yellow pear play on the nose. These get intense on the palate with herbal savor: think arugula and salt, chervil and miso. Intensely savory, the flavors are full but the palate remains fresh and…

Since covering a fateful auction in 2008, journalist Peter Hellman spent years following the strange saga of Rudy Kurniawan, who in 2013 was sentenced to 10 years in prison for selling untold millions of dollars in fake rare vintages. Hellman tells the phenomenal story of the mysterious fraudster in In Vino Duplicitas: The Rise and Fall of a Wine Forger Extraordinaire (The Experiment), published in July How was Kurniawan able to pull off such a huge scam? The thing that allowed him to do it, primarily, was that he did have—everybody agrees—a great palate. He could identify wines blind. A dozen wines, he would nail 10 of them and get very close with two of them, and he did this repeatedly. That was thing one. Thing two is that he…

Think of this cocktail as a fall-friendly margarita that incorporates the herbaceous freshness of blanco Tequila and draws in rich notes of fresh, in-season figs. It’s ideal to bridge the early autumnal days when it’s no longer frozen margarita weather, but also too mild to break out the Cognac and other darker, warming spirits. FIG BUZZ Courtesy Alberto Battaglini, general manager/mixologist, S.Y.Kitchen, Santa Ynez, CA 2 fresh figs, cut in half 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 ounces blanco Tequila 1 ounce fresh lime juice ½ ounce agave syrup 1 licorice root In cocktail shaker, muddle 1½ figs and 1 sprig thyme with muddler or back of spoon. Add Tequila, lime, agave syrup and ice. Shake well, and strain into coupe glass. Grate fresh licorice root on top. Garnish with remaining…

PINOT NOIR 95 Au Bon Climat 2013 Isabelle Pinot Noir ( California ). Beautiful aromas of ripe red cherry and cherry blossoms mix with rose-laced potpourri, dust, cola and vanilla on the nose of this bestbarrel bottling by Jim Clendenen, named aft er his daughter. Bright and zesty acidity grabs the palate’s immediate attention, making the mouth water as flavors of tart cherry, rust, marinated olive and fig come forth, finishing in a very earthy way. — M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 50 95 FEL 2014 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot Noir ( Anderson Valley ). For full review see page 97. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.3% Price: $ 65 95 Freeman 2014 Gloria Estate Pinot Noir ( Russian River Valley ). For full review see page 97. Cellar Selection . abv:…

CORBIÈRES ROSÉS 90 Château Ribaute 2016 Senhal d’Aric Rosé ( Corbières ). Red cherry and berry scents lead the bouquet of this attractive wine, with secondary accents of melon and earthy, herbal spices. Medium-minus in weight, similar fruit H avors H esh out the palate, balanced by ample acidity and a lingering spiced-plum H avor on the close. Drink now. Vinadeis Americas USA . Editors’ Choice . — L.B. abv: 12% Price: $ 16 89 Château Coulon 2016 Made With Organic Grapes Rosé ( Corbières ). A gorgeous, wellbalanced wine, this organic rosé opens with attractive garrigue notes that frame the brambly cherry, raspberry and peach fruit core. Medium-minus in weight, the palate boasts ripe fruit tones that settle on a touch of white chocolate richness on the G nish,…

ASSYRTIKO 90 Wine Art Estate 2015 Techni Assyrtiko ( Drama ). A floral note touched with orange rind and ripe lemon aromas gives this wine a definite Greek character. Poised and elegant on the plate, it has delicious layers of grapefruit, lemon and a spin of minerals on the G nish. Fruity but balanced, it’s a wine for myriad palates. Cava Oinos . — S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 89 Lyrarakis 2015 Vóila Vineyard Assyrtiko ( Crete). Fresh lemon, sea salt and grapefruit aromas lead this buoyant pour from Crete. On the palate, appealing flavors of ripe lemon, tropical fruit and spice give it weight enough to pair with heartier dishes. That said, it G nishes clean with a peppery G nish. Stellar Importing Company, LLC . — S.K. abv:…

Although we already covered some wild beers (those fermented with wild yeasts and bacteria) earlier this year, the category has become so popular and expansive that we just keep getting more new and exciting selections for review. So here we are again, taking another walk on the wild side. As is oft en the case, American brewers are leading the charge with playful interpretations of classic European styles and techniques, creating varied, complex and eye-opening alternatives to the classics. Not that there’s anything wrong with the classics, but it’s also fun to try something new. For instance, traditional Flanders sour reds are typically light- to medium-bodied, with mahogany-like coloring. Conversely, many of the selections reviewed here are quite different, with adventerous basestyle experimentation leading to a veritable rainbow of beer…