Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2017 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Thirsting for positive change? When it comes to giving back, the outpouring of goodwill from these do-gooders will have you clinking your glass to kindness. CELLAR ANGELS: Online wine sellers Martin and Denise Cody don’t just want to help you pick the best from Sonoma and Napa producers, they also want to help you give back. The Codys donate 10 percent of the gross proceeds to a range of partner charities including support for military troops and their families, homeless populations, health and education. EQUALITY WINES: Not all wines are created equal, but Matt Grove and Jim Obergefell believe that the same doesn’t apply to people. The duo partners with like-minded producers to make four wines annually that give back, like their 19th Amendment Sauvignon Blanc, from which $2 of…

“There is always a responsibility we, as humans, have toward ourselves and others.” —Ntsiki Biyela The Ovambo tribe in southern Africa has a proverb that goes something like this: “If you do not have patience, you cannot make beer.” The same could be said for the emerging group of women making wine in South Africa, whose time has come. But don’t think for a moment they’re making “feminine wines”: The three interviewed here have a vision beyond the bottle. Senior Editor Lana Bortolot spoke with Ntsiki Biyela, owner of Aslina wine and the first black female winemaker in South Africa; Vivian Kleynhans, chief executive of African Roots Wines, producer of Seven Sisters Wines; and Denise Stubbs, business director of Thokozani, a shareholder empowerment project that produces Ovation and Thokozani wines.…

Helsinki may seem a bit far to travel for a quality cocktail, but with a little isolation comes much creativity. The cocktail scene here rivals most major cities around the world, but with an advantage: Nordic ingredients like pine, birch, cloudberry and even fish bones, which impart aromas of the sea. So if Finland’s on your summer itinerary, hit these spots for a seasonal drink. AUTHENTIC + FRESH Inside the Hotel Lilla Roberts, the elegant Lilla e. features aesthetically stunning drinks focused on Nordic ingredients and a zero-waste menu. The Vesillelasku, made with pine resin-infused Johnny Walker Black Label and Lagavulin 16-year-old singlemalt Scotch, tells a story through its dry ice-diffused “sea smell” garnish (dried kombu, fish bones and pine needles). Easier to absorb may be Kevat, the Nordic Spring,…

Nothing screams “August farmers’ market” like the spicy-sweet scent of fresh basil. The name comes from the Greek basilikón, meaning “royal,” and, indeed, it’s often referred to as the royal herb or king of herbs. Basil is a member of the mint family and a good replacement in juleps and smashes. And stop arguing: Both BAYZ-uhl and BAZ-uhl are accepted pronunciations. PAIR IT “Basil is truly one of the world’s most flexible herbs,” says Bruce Achtermann, head of the beverage program at The Herbfarm in Woodinville, Washington. The restaurant’s tasting menus often focus on herbs from its gardens, which include more than a dozen basil varieties. “Some basils are more citrus driven, others are more spicy in focus. If basil is your primary driver, look to play off of the…

Restaurants have gotten smaller and more casual, and “local” and “seasonal” have gone from buzzwords to givens. And yet, dishes like Dover sole and steak au poivre à l’Armagnac in a ritzy environment with formal service have enduring appeal. With a spate of opulent openings that might have seemed out of place just a few years ago, restaurateurs are examining what fine dining looks like in 2017. New York City fine dining once meant Lutèce, La Côte Basque, Le Pavillon and La Caravelle, and it seems their ghosts have awakened. In Madison Avenue’s Lowell Hotel, Majorelle is like dining in a French manor home, complete with gougonettes de sole and foie gras et Sauternes. At Gabriel Kreuther, servers liM glass domes oI plates of langoustine tartare and Siberian osetra. Elsewhere,…

Dining out has become entertainment, education and art all in one, so it’s no surprise that museum restaurants have evolved from quick stops to placate the kids to destinations in their own right. In Situ, the restaurant that accompanies the impressive redesign of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, is a museum of food: Chef Corey Lee replicates iconic dishes from famed chefs of different eras. It’s a tricky conceit, but brilliantly executed. The vegetable-driven cuisine at Esker Grove, the new restaurant in Minneapolis’s contemporary Walker Art Museum, takes inspiration from the museum’s collection: An entrée of roasted parsnip with coI ee, caramelized goat’s milk and escarole combines the drama of Edward Hopper with the whimsy of Yayoi Kusama. At the new Sweet Home Café in the Smithsonian’s National…

There’s a reason why the terms “vegetarian” and “vegan” have been largely supplanted by “vegetable-focused” and “plant-based.” At some of the country’s best restaurants, vegetables are taking center stage, whether those restaurants are vegetarian or vegan, or just use meat more as a supporting player than star. Vegan restaurants like Crossroads and Plant Food + Wine in LA and Vedge in Philadelphia have had major influence on chefs nationwide, encouraging them to see freedom from the slab-o-protein as an opportunity for invention. In Portland, Farm Spirit turns local farm produce into mind-bending tasting menus that are among the country’s most ingenious (sample dish: Brussels sprouts in a butternut-hazelnut velouté, with black garlic, red jalapeño and fermented sunflower). Many other, non-plant-based restaurants known for their tasting menus—such as NYC’s Daniel and…

Whether whole beasts or marshmallows, cooking over an open fire has brought people together for millennia. So it’s no surprise restaurants are embracing the elemental nature and smoky complexity it brings to everything from salads to desserts. Wood-fired ovens are common in a well-outfitted restaurant kitchen, but more restaurants are putting them at the center of the action. The Francis Mallmann episode of the Netflix series Chef’s Table got audiences excited about the Argentinean chef’s theatrical open-fire cooking at his restaurants, like the new Los Fuegos By Francis Mallmann in Miami Beach. At Chicago’s El Che Bar, Chef John Manion also looks to Argentina’s urban parrilladas and rural asados for inspiration. Over 90 percent of the menu comes off the open fire. Joining him in Chicago is Lena Brava, Rick…

When Chardonnay was planted in the Santa Maria Valley and Monterey County in the 1960s, the vines were primarily aimed at satisfying the demands of the burgeoning Napa Valley scene. But in the decades since, Central Coast winemakers have raised their own white wine game, and that quality- focused mission shows no signs of slowing down. Given the history and relatively cool climate throughout the Central Coast, Chardonnay continues to lead the pack. That once-classic, “Cali Chard” butterbomb style of yesteryear is hard to G nd these days. Instead, while there may be welcome hints of roasted nuts, custard and caramel, most Chardonnays ride the acid side of the scale, alive with citrusy freshness. The best ones throw in savory sea salt and chalky textures, giving white Burgundies a run…

CHARDONNAY 87 Lapostolle 2015 Grand Selection Chardonnay (Rapel Valley). Plump, buttery aromas of apple and peach suggest popcorn. Typical of a Lapostolle Chardonnay, this feels a bit chunky and oily. Flavors of pineapple are slightly syrupy and oaky, while this tastes of honey, butter, stone fruits and mango on the finish. Terlato Wines International . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 14 87 Leyda 2015 Lot 5 Chardonnay (Leyda Valley). Aromas of starched sheets and lanolin show a hint of apple. This feels rather lean and similar to soda: there isn’t much body to it. Tropical melony H avors are oaky, and the finish turns downright woody and sweet like canned pineapple. MundoVino–The Winebow Group . — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 40 86 Errazuriz 2016 Max Reserva Chardonnay (Aconcagua…

RÍAS BAIXAS 89 Rectoral do Mar 2016 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Dusty peach and mild citrus aromas set this wine’s plump palate up with spritz. Despite the indistinct nature of its pulpy, salty apple and citrus flavors, it’s well made overall and on target. Drink now. Votto Vines Importing . — M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 20 88 Condes de Albarei 2016 Albariño (Rías Baixas). This wine’s classic Albariño aromas of white flowers and stone fruit are simple and nice. It feels round and true but a touch flat. Thompson grape, melon and ripe apple flavors hold steady on the finish. Drink now. Cordelina Wine Company . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 14 88 Palacio de Fefiñanes 2016 Albariño (Rías Baixas). This wine’s dusty white fruit aromas aren’t as focused…

RIESLING SPÄTLESE 95 Egon Müller 2015 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Racy and deeply mineral, yet buoyantly fruity, this wine embodies the best from the Mosel’s fantastic 2015 vintage. It’s lavishly forward in ripe yellow peach, apricot and honeydew H avors, yet bracingly high in acidity. Satisfyingly rich in extract yet feather light, it finishes long, with shards of slate and crushed mineral. Stunning already, it should continue to improve through 2030, likely beyond. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd . Editors’ Choice . — A.I. abv: 8% Price: $ 175 94 Robert Weil 2015 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese (Rheingau). Perfumed notes of honey and tangerine are accented by savory accents of pollen on the nose of this complex spätlese. Concentrated stone fruit and pineapple H avors fall lusciously on the palate,…

WHITE WINES 89 Adzic 2015 Graševina (Kutjevo). This strawcolored wine has delightful aromas of white jasmine, cotton candy and violets. Flavors recall guava, mango and papaya. Medium bodied and well balanced, it has a clean, crisp finish. Blue Danube Wine Co . — J.J. abv: 13% Price: $ 20 89 Toreta 2015 Special Posip (Korcula). Aromas suggest lemon blossom, lime zest and green apple. Flavors of apple and lemon zest shine before the pleasant acidic finish Blue Danube Wine Co . — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 20 88 Sipun 2015 Zlahtina (Krk). This wine from the island of Krk is straw colored, with aromas of apple blossom, green apple and lemon zest. It is well weighted in the mouth, with flavors of apple and citrus blossom and a creamy…

Shhh, don’t tell: We’re taking a risk with this month’s category—barrel-aged gin— because technically it doesn’t exist. You see, U.S. regulators don’t recognize “aged gin” as a spirit type, so it must be given another designation. As a result, spirits producers perform all kinds of labeling contortions to get around that technicality. Instead of calling their product “barrel aged,” as you’ll see below, they test the limits of creativity with descriptions such as “barrel rested,” “barrel finished,” or “barreled.” Perhaps the gin is “dark” or “rusty,” or maybe it’s billed as “barrel reserve” or “single barrel” gin. Yet, that sticky naming issue hasn’t stopped gin producers from continuing to plunk gin into barrels, layering sprightly botanicals with vanilla and honey oaky notes. What’s the attraction? Barrel time can really push…

As a professional journalist since the summer after high school, I always subscribed to the wisdom of Charles Bukowski, the salacious and sodden poet laureate of the Los Angeles underbelly. In his poem, “How To Be a Great Writer,” he advises people to “just drink more beer/more and more beer.” Sex, gambling, sleeping late and the music of Brahms and Bach also are recommended, not to mention the avoidance of museums and paying your credit card bills. But it was the hops endorsement that really stuck with me. “Beer,” wrote Bukowski, “is continuous blood.” Daily infusions have sustained me through decades of newspaper gigs and freelancing in the digital era, from battered manual typewriters to smartphones. As a music and G lm critic, bars and parties have been my natural…

A WEEKEND OF SAND AND SIPS Florida was home to the annual four-day South Walton Wine & Food Festival, of which Wine Enthusiast is a media sponsor. Seminars, walkaround tastings and private patron dinners were capped by the successful Destin Charity Wine Auction. VIVE LE VIN Wine Enthusiast Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo led a lively tasting and panel at NYC’s French Institute Alliance Française (FIAF) on the subject of “The French Revolution: France’s New Trailblazers” as part of a joint W.E./FIAF series. DEEP ROOTS An annual wine dinner at Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History was dedicated to Latino winemakers. Gustavo Brambila, Ceja Vineyards, Mi Sueño Winery, Maldonado Vineyards and Robledo Family Vineyards were honored.…

Any wine lover knows that the right beverage can help your food taste better, but many assume cocktails aren’t up to the job. Top bartenders give their tips for the best mixed-drink pairings at your summer cookout. WITH BARBECUE, GO SMOKY The smoky, savory flavors of mezcal, made from roasted agave hearts, make the Mexican spirit barbecue’s soulmate. Jeffrey Knott, of The Fish House and Atlas Oyster House in Pensacola, Florida, suggests shaking mezcal with honey and ginger, plus something tart and dry, like grapefruit, to cut its richness. Top it off with soda, which will tone down the intensity a bit and quench the thirst of quickdrinking guests. WITH BURGERS, BRING THE BITTER Bitterness helps a drink hold its own next to a robust dish, as it allows the…

A founding partner of Copenhagen’s world-renowned restaurant Noma, Mads Refslund is experienced in turning foraged and underappreciated ingredients into ornate meals. In his new cookbook, he tackles the timely issue of food waste, encouraging readers to make delicious meals from ingredients they typically throw away. It’s not just about using the whole thing—think cauliflower stems and roasted watermelon seeds—but at different stages: wilted herbs, stale bread, under- and overripe berries. Raid that fridge. BREAD SALAD WITH CARROT-TOP PESTO READ SALAD WITH CARROT-TOP PESTOCourtesy Mads Refslund and Tama Matsuoka Wong, from Scraps, Wilt + Weeds (Hachette Book Group) 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 cups 2-inch chunks of day-old bread, crusts removed 3 cups vegetable scraps, such as tomatoes, cucumbers and squash, raw or cooked 1–2 cups chopped fresh herb…

Gwen Los Angeles Your other restaurant, Maude, offers one epic tasting menu. What’s the vibe at Gwen? Curtis Stone: At Gwen, it’s a three-, five- or 10-course tasting menu focused on fire-based cooking techniques. I fell in love with the shell of this 1928 building smack in the middle of gritty Hollywood. It’s like an old Hollywood dining room. I want the room to feel like a party. Where would you lead someone who comes in for a big steak with the perfect wine? Fahara Zamorano: The big meat course at Gwen is only one component of the tasting menu—you’re not going to get there for a while. The safe bets for terrines and charcuterie are rosés, while cured meats and pâtés are wonderful with skin-contact whites. I call them…

Cosme New York City What makes Cosme a different kind of Mexican restaurant than most people in the U.S. are familiar with? Daniela Soto-Innes: The food at Cosme is contemporary Mexican. We use dry ingredients from Mexico like corn, beans and chilies, and we mix them with local fresh products to create real Mexican food in New York. Yana Volfson: If you’ve spent time in Mexico City, then you’ve had a more modern Mexican cuisine experience. It’s kind of a marriage of that style of food coming to New York, with a rarer European-driven wine program that’s more “New York” and not available in Mexico. I see it as a circular experience of newness and openness. Mexico doesn’t have a big wine-drinking culture, even though there’s such a range of…

At Fish & Game, the staff uses a homemade kimchi of daikon greens and bakes the oysters in a wood-fired oven. 24 oysters 1 egg, plus 3 egg yolks 2 sticks (½ pound) unsalted butter ½ cup kimchi brine, strained Kosher salt, to taste ½ cup kimchi, drained and minced Shuck oysters, leaving them in bottom shell with liquid. Arrange in rimmed baking sheet on bed of coarse salt, to hold them steady while you make Hollandaise. Put egg and yolks in blender. Heat butter and brine in saucepan over medium heat. After butter melts, whisk mixture and pour slowly into running blender until it visibly thickens. Add salt to taste, if necessary. Heat broiler. Top each oyster with about 1 teaspoon of kimchi and fill with Hollandaise. Broil until…

Senia Honolulu What was your initial vision for Senia? Anthony Rush: Collaboration…, being able to use classic European techniques with tropical ingredients. Chris Kajioka: No one believed with our [finedining] backgrounds that this was going to be an approachable place, and that was the number one thing that I wanted…. We want to reflect that we’re in Hawaii, for people to feel that hospitality. Anthony, you’re a long way from England. AR: Having grown up in the English countryside, Hawaii appeals to me because it’s equally lush and green. There’s nothing like hiking here, especially when we come across wild fruits that we can forage and use in the restaurant What’s working? CK: Born and raised in Hawaii, we always have a chip on our shoulder that we’re less than…

CHARDONNAY 92 Big Table Farm 2015 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). A super vintage for this wine, it opens with compelling roasty-toasty aromatics, derived from barrel fermentation in 10% new oak. Those aromas straddle flavors of citrus and apple, and deliver a wine with cut and polish. It’s a stellar example of the emerging high-quality style of the top Oregon Chardonnays. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $ 45 92 Durant 2015 Raven Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This single clone estate-grown wine was viniG ed 50-50 in stainless and mainly neutral oak. It’s punchy and tight, with complex apple, peach and lemon/lime fruit. A light touch of toast enlivens the back palate and finish. Good already, it’s designed for ageability. Drink now through 2028. Cellar Selection . — P.G. abv: 14%…

CHARDONNAY 94 Tolpuddle 2014 Chardonnay (Tasmania). The Pinot Noir is no slouch either, but Tolpuddle’s 2014 Chardonnay is super. Faint hints of crème brûlée mark the nose, then ease into lime, pineapple and white peach notes on the palate. It’s only medium in weight, but with a silky feel and a long mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2022. CraM + Estate–The Winebow Group . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 13% Price: $ 60 93 Moorooduc 2013 Robinson Chardonnay (Mornington Peninsula). Despite its moderate alcohol level, this comes across as medium to full in body, with a velvet and custard texture that coats the palate with H avors of grilled pineapple, citrus and melon. It’s made in a concentrated, opulent style, yet it finishes clean, with lingering notes of citrus.…

GEWURZTRAMINER 95 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2015 Clos Windsbuhl Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A cleancut top note of citrus hovers above the otherwise still-closed nose. The palate comes in with a concentrated richness that is as much sustained by residual sweetness as it is by sheer force of fruit: candied lemon and orange, juicy pear, ripe mirabelle and yellow peach. There also is a zesty spicy pithiness on the midpalate that frames and guides the wine alongside invigorating lemon freshness that lets this finish off dry despite the richness. This is yet to unfold fully. Lovely now, sure to improve. Drink 2020—2035. Kobrand . — A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 80 93 Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2014 Rosenberg Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The exquisitely restrained nose has just a touch of honeysuckle perfume—just a hint of that spicy…

COLLIO 93 Villa Russiz 2015 De La Tour Sauvignon (Collio). Elegant and finely structured, this creamy fragrant white opens with heady scents of jasmine, honeysuckle and white stone fruit. The smooth delicious palate delivers green melon, white peach, cantaloupe, grapefruit and orange zest while a saline note lift s the lingering finish. Empson USA Ltd . — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 55 92 Villa Russiz 2015 Friulano (Collio). A few swirls of the glass release alluring aromas of mature pear, bread crust and a whiI of yellow flower. Elegant and savory, the medium-bodied palate doles out ripe yellow apple, lemon zest and a pleasant note of bitter almond while a mineral note adds energy. It’s fresh and understated, but it’s also delicious and balanced. Empson USA Ltd . Editors’…

WHITE WINES 87 Domaine Boyar 2015 Muscat (Thracian Valley). This wine has enticing aromas of jasmine, white peach and orange blossom. It is well balanced with flavors of apricot and tangerine on the palate and a touch of bright orange flavor in the finish. Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best Buy . — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 10 87 Minkov Brothers 2011 Le Photographe Rheinriesling Riesling (Thracian Valley). Aromas of lemon-lime, jasmine and honeysuckle prepare the palate for crisp, clean flavors of lemon zest and lemon curd. USA Wine West . — J.J. abv: 13% Price: $ 22 RED WINES 90 Edoardo Miroglio 2012 EM Mavrud (Thracian Valley). This wine has aromas of cherry, cherry pie, pomegranate juice and dark chocolate. In the mouth there are flavors of cranberry, cherry cola…

These days, it feels like it’s impossible to keep up on the IPA train. This is still, by far, the most popular craft beer style in the U.S., and just when you think you’ve seen it all, leave it to playful American craft brewers to come up with something completely new and totally diI erent—varying subcategories or takes on classic IPAs that use diI erent base styles, grain bills, techniques and more. It’s an endless adventure to try and keep up on the latest oI erings. Though, truthfully, it’s also a delicious one. Back in late 2010, we first introduced you to a beer style that was gaining serious traction among producers and drinkers alike. The topic of its name was a hot one, and the debate had a classic…

August may seem like an unusual time to feature a drink from Aspen, best known as a ski town. But the region hums even when the ski lifts are still, and the Colorado mountains provide a stunning backdrop for summer sipping. Enter this classic Rickey, updated with peaksummer fruit and a splash of Prosecco. Created by Jason Galang when he was beverage director for Aspen Kitchen (he’s since moved to a New York City venue), this drink showcases plump summer blackberries and Woody Creek Vodka, a local potato vodka made just northwest of Aspen. The end result is a sweet-tart, lightly G zzy highball just right for cooling off when the mercury spikes. BLACKBERRY LIME RICKEY Courtesy Jason Galang, beverage director, Aspen Kitchen, Aspen, Colorado 3 large blackberries 2 ounces…

Technically speaking, all French wines are vins de France. But some choose to be officially labeled Vin de France, a relatively new category of generally low-priced wines. Established in 2010, the category replaced Vin de Table, the lowest rung on the quality ladder. Producers of all levels and legacies are using the new designation, including some of France’s most heralded names, who are offering quality wines at varying price points. One such example is Margaux’s celebrated Château Palmer. Château Palmer, however, is no stranger to the concept: It created its Historical XIX Century Blend red wine in 2004, harkening back to the era when, in poor vintages, rich Rhône Valley wine was added to the lighter Bordeaux. Under the old system, Château Palmer circumvented label restrictions against mentioning vintage by…

Dabney likes to add her own pickled ramps and peppers from the on-site garden to this dish. Feel free to garnish with your own pickled onions, peppers or both. 3 Chinese or Japanese eggplants (about 1½ pounds), sliced into ½-inch-thick rounds 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons honey ½ teaspoon ground Aleppo,Urfa or ancho pepper ½ cup yogurt ½ cup crème fraîche ¼ packed cup fresh dill ¼ cup toasted hazelnuts, coarsely chopped ¼ cup fresh mint leaves, sliced thin Toss eggplant with salt and olive oil to coat. Heat large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add eggplant in single layer and cook (in batches if necessary), turning once, until deep brown on both sides. Add honey and pepper to pan, and cook, stirring gently, for…

This easy miso dressing is also terrific on noodle or grain salads, grilled vegetables or seared scallops. 1 tablespoon yellow or white miso 1 small garlic clove, grated 3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar ½ cup safflower oil 4 medium heads Little Gem lettuce Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 avocado 5 red radishes Place miso, garlic and vinegar in blender and blend until very smooth. With blender running, add safflower oil slowly to emulsify. Remove from blender and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Remove any tough outer leaves from lettuce and discard. Separate leaves and place in large bowl. Add dressing as desired, then add salt and pepper to taste. Slice avocado and radish just before serving, and arrange on top of salad. Serves 4.…

Waypoint Cambridge, Massachusetts You describe your food as coastally inspired, not Italian. How do pizza and pasta fit in? Michael Scelfo: I’m Italian, third-generation. I think all my food is Mediterranean leaning…It could also be southern French. The restaurant scene in Cambridge has exploded over the last few years. MS: I like to think of Cambridge as our own little Brooklyn to Boston. It’s really where a lot of new and exciting things are happening in the food scene. Jen Fields: It’s very collaborative. If I go to a place down the street and have a really cool glass or bottle, I’ll talk to them about it. We all love talking about food and wine. Waypoint’s food changes constantly. Jen, how does that affect you in selecting wines? JF: We…

FLX Table works this caramel into seasonal desserts year-round— always serving jars at the table for guests to help themselves. 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup granulated sugar ½ cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon kosher salt Brown butter in heavy skillet (ideally with light-colored bottom) by cooking over medium heat and whisking or swirling pan until foaming has subsided and butter is golden-brown with a nutty aroma. Remove from heat and pour into a bowl, leaving as much sediment behind as possible. Heat sugar in heavy, deep saucepan over medium heat. As sugar starts to melt, stir gently with heatproof rubber spatula. When sugar is completely melted and deep brown in color (it should register 330?F on a candy thermometer), add cream very slowly (it will bubble up). Whisk to…

CHARDONNAY 91 Gorman 2015 The Big Sissy Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Pale straw in color, this wine brings alluring aromas of toast, spice, clariG ed butter and stone fruit. The palate is full bodied with sweet, generous peach and tropical-fruit H avors that sail on the finish. — S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 35 90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Canoe Ridge Estate Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills). For full review see page 96. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 20 90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 96. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 22 90 Three Rivers 2015 Reserve Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Aromas of clariG ed butter are at the fore, followed by a spice top note. The palate is rich and creamy in feel, lingering…

VINHO VERDE 92 Casa do Valle 2015 Reserva Special Edition (Vinho Verde). The blend of this rich wine is dominated by Alvarinho, some of it from old vines. With its wonderful ripe fruit and layers of apricot and pear H avors, this is like no other Vinho Verde. That is except for that zingy acidity that gives the wine is refreshing fruitiness at the end. Drink now. Massanois Imports. — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 40 / 1.5 L 92 Provam 2015 Vinha Antiga Escolha (Vinho Verde). This is a rich impressively structured wine. It showcases the Alvarinho and brings out its fruit and flavors. The subtle wood aging has just enhanced the fruit. The wine is delicious and is now just ready to drink, although it will be better…

BORDEAUX BLANC 91 Château Bois Malot 2016 Bordeaux Blanc . This Meynard family wine is ripe and soM with a smoothly creamy texture and a perfumed backdrop. It is ready to drink, full of good acidity and with a tangy, zesty texture. The aM ertaste keeps that attractive perfumed character. Kappy’s Importing and Distributing Co . Best Buy . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 13 91 Château de Rayne Vigneau 2015 Le Sec de Rayne Vigneau (Bordeaux Blanc). Produced at the classed-growth Sauternes estate, this 100% Sauvignon Blanc comes from a 17-acre parcel. It has plenty of herbal H avors while also having a riper, yellow-fruit tinge. Lightly oaked, the wine is ripe from this warm vintage and ready to drink. Aquitaine Wine Company . Editors’ Choice . —…

RED WINES 89 Kovács Nimród 2013 Monopole Blues Kékfrankos (Eger). This 100% Kekfrankos has characteristic aromas of red raspberry, pomegranate, green pepper and forest floor. In the mouth there are flavors of dried cranberry, tart cherry and a touch of jalapeño pepper. Tannins are soM and the finish is pleasantly acidic. Nimrod Wines, LLC . — J.J. abv: 13.3% Price: $ 19 88 Kovács Nimród 2012 Monopole Rhapsody (Eger). This Hungarian red blend is garnet in color, with aromas of red cherry and black berry and H avors of red cherry and pomegranate. The tannins are soM with a medium-length finish. Nimrod Wines, LLC . — J.J. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 19 88 Vincze Béla 2013 Rosszfiú Cuveé (Eger). This Hungarian red blend has aromas of red raspberry, black cherry…

WHITE WINES 89 Schuchmann Wines 2014 Vinoterra Kisi (Kakheti). This amber-colored wine oI ers a clean bouquet of green apple. Sophisticated flavors of tart apple, honeydew and sage play on the tongue amid chewy tannins that persist into a mouthwatering finish, with lingering notes of Mediterranean herbs. Georgian House of Greater Washington, LLC . — M.D. abv: 13% Price: $ 19 88 Doqi 2014 Qveri Kisi (Georgia). Don’t be fooled by this honey-colored wine’s simple nose of clementine. It oI ers a complex palate of green apple, guava and honeydew melon bolstered by soM H oral notes. Strong tannins make their presence known on the gums and tongue, but any sense of grippiness is overcome by the bright citrus finish. Blue Danube Wine Co . — M.D. abv: 13% Price:…