Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2017 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

HIKING Bottled whiskey cocktails Why: Whether it’s a mountainside climb or a trailside trek, hiking can involve rugged routes. And when you feel tough, whiskey is a natural choice. Several well-made bottled cocktails have hit the market and are easy to transport. Or, simply fill a flask with your favorite Bourbon for easy sipping. For more sun + sips pairings, turn the page…

Sharing summertime drinks is about enjoying good times, brightening already luminous afternoons and continuing conversations long after the sun blazes its farewell. Breezy parties, beaches and backyard barbecues are hardly ideal venues for high-test India pale ales (IPAs) and other sobriety thieves. Instead, stock icy coolers with sour beers that are scant in alcohol and high in flavor. Laced with Lactobacillus, the souring bacteria that morphs milk into yogurt, Berliner weisse, gose (pronounced “goes-uh”), grodziskie and dry-hopped sour beers marvelously merge tartness with refreshment that’s as invigorating as lemonade. Better yet, their lowwattage alcohol levels won’t short-circuit your senses as the day unfolds, round after round. Say hello to your new summer crushes. Gose Salt in beer might seem strange, but it’s this biting German wheat ale’s essential ingredient. The…

“There’s something that comes of the freedom of doing something because you love it, not because you intend to get rich from it.” Increasingly, indie movie writer/director Joe Swanberg is becoming known for his love of craft beer, an enthusiasm he shares in his films. Drinking Buddies (2013) was set at Chicago’s Revolution Brewing, and two episodes of his Netflix series, Easy, revolve around the “Brewery Brothers,” a pair of siblings who start an underground brewery. While it centers on a gambling addict, his new Netflix film, Win It All, is similarly sudsy. Director’s cuts Naturally drawn to the Midwestern stuff,” Swanberg picks his top hearland breweries. ILLINOIS: Half Acre, 3 Floyds, Revolution MICHIGAN: Founders and Bell’s OHIO: Great Lakes What do you find most compelling about the craft-beer movement?…

COOL CADDIE For a big chill, golf club-shaped chilling wands will ace the job. Packaged in a carrying case for drinkers on the go (two wands), they claim to cool wines up to 20 times faster than your refrigerator can chill a bottle. They fit most wine glasses, and the silicone handles prevent wands from scratching glasses. Place in the freezer at least three hours before use. (Williams Sonoma; $39.95) Verdict: The wands cooled our wine to a cool 58?F and maintained that temperature long enough for us to finish the glass. ICE, ICE, BABY You don’t want your summer reds too cold, but you don’t want them too warm, either. And, putting ice cubes in wine is not a cool thing to do, as they dilute the flavor. Glacier…

RÍAS BAIXAS 89 Pazo San Mauro 2016 Albariño ( Rías Baixas ). Fresh stony apple and citrus aromas are composed. Following that lead, this feels focused and fresh. Flavors of stone fruits, citrus fruits and white pepper finish crisp but not real long or deep. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co . — M.S. S. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 19 88 Paco & Lola 2016 Albariño ( Rías Baixas ). Light lemony aromas are more blowsy than exact. This feels citric and grabby, with oily weight to the palate. Flavors of ripe white grapefruit, nectarine and orange expand but don’t evolve on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 22 88 Rosa Nautica 2016 Albariño ( Rías Baixas ). Aromas of lemon curd and citrus blossom…

ROSÉS 90 Markus Huber 2016 Zweigelt Rosé ( Weinland Österreich ). An appetizing touch of red currant and cranberry plays on the nose of this vividly colored rosé. The palate is fruit-forward with subtle shades of berry and citrus. The G nish is refreshing and berry-laden. Broadbent Selections, Inc . — A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $ 18 90 Schloss Gobelsburg 2016 Cistercien Rosé ( Niederösterreich ). Loads of fruit show on the nose of this wine: green and red apple, strawberry and ample, zesty citrus. The palate is taut, fresh, dry and precise, shot through with appetizing fruity flavors. A wonderful, flavorsome rosé, with or without food. Skurnik Wines, Inc . Best Buy . — A.K. abv: 12% Price: $ 14 89 Bründlmayer 2016 Langenloiser Zweigelt Rosé ( Niederösterreich ).…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 93 Brander 2015 au Naturel Sauvignon Blanc ( Los Olivos District ). Freshly cut quince, guava, lemongrass and key lime aromas combine with a stony quality on the nose of this vibrant, zesty wine. Its acidity is almost eI ervescent, infusing the palate with boundless energy, while its chalky grip carries sharp green apple notes alongside warmer touches of pineapple and guava. Those vivid H avors linger for a full minute. Editors’ Choice . — M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 32 93 Darioush 2014 Sage Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ( Napa Valley ). From the producer’s estate vineyard on Mount Veeder, this 100% varietal vineyard designate is oaky, viscous and intensely H avored with green apple, melon and peach. Delicious honeysuckle and grapefruit peel aromas make it all the…

RIESLING 90 Red Newt Cellars 2015 Dry Riesling ( Finger Lakes). Lime zest and white pepper notes are invigorating on the nose and palate of this piercing dry-style Riesling. Crisp green apple and white peach notes are pristine and pure, glazed by nuanced touches of honey and slate. It’s full bodied but surprisingly light in texture with a long linear G nish. — A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $ 20 89 Anthony Nappa 2015 Luminous Riesling ( Finger Lakes ). Streaks of honey and bee pollen extend from nose to finish in this deft off -dry Riesling. Tart tangerine and grapefruit flavors are vital and crisp, but also spicy, earthy and a bit rustic. The finish is long and intensely citrusy. — A.I. abv: 11.2% Price: $ 18 89 Attic Cellar…

I helped customers with wines, stocked the beer cooler and wrote shelf talkers. And, since I worked in a grocery store, I also directed people toward the toilet-paper aisle. Working as a wine steward in a bustling Seattle grocery store was rarely, if ever, like being in a quiet, refined shop. Though I cultivated friendships with some customers, I also witnessed brazen shoplifters who stuffed bottles down their pants or clandestinely chugged cough syrup in the aisle. For every well-meaning person who brought me leftovers from home, there’d be one who’d scream random threats. One day, a customer asked me to pick out a nice wine for a dinner party. That wasn’t an unusual request, but her reason was that it would serve as a backup to a special bottle…

Whether you take long walks or take up a racquet, summer is the time to be active. And, working up a sweat means working up a thirst. Sure, we recommend that you hydrate with some H 0 or a sports drink, but when you’re having fun with friends, water satisfies only so much. Different strokes call for different drinks, so pick your game and get the (responsible) fun started. 1 CAMPING Boxed or Tetra Pak drinks Why: Whether you favor wine or cocktails, the last thing you want to do is lug heavy bottles, even if car camping. A range of boxed products offer many choices, and don’t be wary of the nontraditional format—you can find some great juice in those alternate packages. 2 DISC GOLF Wheat beer Why: Nothing…

Vegetarians often get short shrift at the grill, but eggplant drizzled with steak-friendly chimichurri will make even meat eaters happy. Charred and smoky, eggplant rubbed with ancho chili and paprika is a brilliant match for the bright flavors of this spicy Argentinean herb sauce. The eggplant develops a crusty exterior with meltingly tender flesh inside. This vibrant main course is good warm or at room temperature, suitable for a cookout or a busy weeknight dinner. GRILLED EGGPLANT WITH SPICY CHIMICHURRI Courtesy Angela Davis, recipe developer, The Kitchenista Diaries FOR THE CHIMICHURRI 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro 2 teaspoons dried oregano 1/2 teaspoons black pepper 1 serrano pepper, finely diced 1 small shallot, minced Juice and zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon…

A summer staple in the Northeast, culinary historians says that the New England clambake tradition pre-dates the country itself. Hundreds of years before Europeans arrived, Native Americans dug pits on beaches and steamed lobster, clams and corn over seaweed. While an oceanfront clambake may be steeped in tradition and nostalgia, fire bans on beaches and the hassle to transport everything to the beach make a stovetop clambake a better option. Nautical décor, fresh seafood and well-chosen wine add up to an easygoing summer party that brings the ocean to you no matter where you live. Your guests won’t care that there’s no sand beneath their feet, and even better, they won’t find any in their food. Cape Cod Punch Bowl Greet your guests with a spin on the classic Cape…

LUGANA WHITE WINES 92 Le Morette 2016 Mandolara ( Lugana ). For full review see page 81. Editors’ Choice abv: 12.5% Price: $ 25 91 Cà dei Frati 2015 I Frati ( Lugana). Alluring smature orchard fruit, grilled herb, toasted nut and flint scents take center stage in this savory white, accented by a balsamic note. The round, creamy, palate mirrors the nose, oI ering juicy white peach, baked apple and celery flavors. A blast of candied tangerine closes the lingering finish. USA Wine West . — K.O. abv: 13% Price: $ 22 91 Marangona 2016 Lugana. Enticing wildflower, chopped herb and ripe orchard fruit scents abound in this radiant wine. The palate doles out white peach, yellow pear and nectarine notes, with stony mineral accents. Fresh acidity brightens the…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 93 Spy Valley 2014 Envoy Johnson Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ( Marlborough). Envoy is Spy Valley’s top range of bottlings. In this case, it’s a single-vineyard wine that’s fermented and matured in oak for 11 months. It’s medium-bodied and silky in texture, with distinctive fumé notes, hints of struck match, and layers of passion fruit and grapefruit flavors. Dry, austere and long on the finish, it’s a compelling example of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Broadbent Selections, Inc . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 33 92 Greywacke 2014 Wild Sauvignon ( Marlborough ). For full review see page 80. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 29 91 Greywacke 2016 Sauvignon Blanc ( Marlborough ). For full review see page 82. Editors’ Choice abv: 13% Price: $ 23 91 Spy Valley 2016…

ROSÉS 91 Domaine Serene NV R Dry Rosé ( Oregon ). This rosé is multivintage and multivarietal, differentiated by the lot number (this current release is IX), which is indicated on the cork just below the capsule. The IX is principally 2016 Pinot Noir, blended with some 2015 Chardonnay. It shows impressive density, with rhubarb, strawberry and maraschino cherry H avors, along with excellent texture, depth and length. — P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 38 91 Grizzly Peak 2015 Syrah Rosé ( Rogue Valley ). A deep sunset-rose color, this has stellar cherry fruit dappled with coriander. Dry, spicy and compelling, it’s one of the most powerful rosés you will encounter from Oregon. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 20 91 King Estate 2016 Mountain Blocks Rosé…

How else to describe such a diverse and delightful group? When it comes to American whiskey, Bourbon and rye get most of the attention. Both are wonderful, but that shuts a large number of bottlings out in the cold, just because they don’t fit in those very specific categories. So this month, we deliberately flung the door open wide and invited all the “other” American whiskeys in. Bring on the American single malts, the wheat whiskeys, Tennessee whiskeys and, most especially, the delightful oddballs that we affectionately dubbed “weirdo whiskeys.” That’s not intended as a slight. How else to describe such a diverse and delightful group? Consider, for example, High West’s latest BouRye bottling, which blends Bourbon and rye to delicious effect, but which is technically neither Bourbon nor rye.…

* TO MAKE SIMPLE SYRUP Mix 1 part sugar and 1 part water. Bring water to rolling boil and stir in sugar until it dissolves. Lower heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Refrigerated, it will keep for about 2 weeks. Meet our pick for the official drink of summer, the frosé: rosé wine plus lemonade, frozen into a delightfully refreshing adult slushie. At Austin’s Hotel San Jose (yes, it rhymes with frosé), Bar Manager Breezy Mayo uses a frozen drink machine to crank these out for thirsty travelers. She adapted the recipe here to make at home in a blender with lemonade-flavored ice cubes, ideal for poolside get-togethers with friends. While any rosé will work, Mayo says, “I specifically chose a Rioja rosé,…

Say Greece, and you’ll speak of all things summer: sun-soaked Santorini cliffs, taverna tables practically groaning under the weight of grilled fish and sunset strolls through vineyards as old as the Acropolis. Experiencing Greece is even more fun with one of its intriguing wines in hand. But even if you’re just armchair traveling, these sips will give you an immediate sense of place, with a freshness perfect for the season. Shopping in Nafplio’s Old Town, Peloponnese 90 Mercouri Estate 2015 Foloi (Peloponnese); $ 18 This delicate blend of native grape Roditis (90 percent) and Viognier (10 percent) has a floral nose and an array of tropical fruit flavors. Made by one of Greece’s oldest wine estates, it’s an elegant, layered white that’s refreshing, with a peppy finish. Paired with grilled…

Another year has passed and prime rosé time, a k a summer, is back. This year, I’ve reviewed more rosés from Provence than ever before—more than 250. The United States remains the largest export market for these delicious wines, as America continues to open bottles all summer long. Glasses are G lled by the pool, on the deck, at the beach or simply while lounging at home, as the wine transports you to the French Riviera no matter where you actually are. The wines from 2016 are among the best I’ve tasted. There seems to be even more fruit than usual in these crisp, dry rosés. And, I am delighted to report, there seems to be just a bit more color. While last year it seemed producers were vying to…

FIANO DI AVELLINO 91 Feudi di San Gregorio 2016 Fiano di Avellino . For full review see page 82. abv: 13% Price: $ 21 91 Tenuta Sarno 1860 2015 Fiano di Avellino . A few swirls of the glass release alluring smoky flint, hazelnut, citrus and dried Mediterranean herb aromas. That savory mineral quality carries over to the bright, tangy palate, underscoring ripe pear, lemon, apple and thyme honey flavors. Caroline Debbané Selections . — K.O. abv: 13% Price: $ 28 90 Le Masciare 2015 Fiano di Avellino . This wine’s yellow flower, Mediterranean brush and citrus aromas will grab your attention. On the full-bodied palate, a white almond note underscores ripe Bartlett pear, nectarine and candied lemon flavors while a mineral note energizes the G nish. Swiss Cellars .…

MALBEC 93 Viña Cobos 2014 Bramare Malbec ( Valle de Uco ). The color of this Malbec and the legs it gives oI help separate it from the pack. A plush nose shows unabsorbed oak and char along with deep berry and cassis notes. Total saturation on the palate matches the nose, and this tastes of chocolate, mocha, wood spice and rich berry fruits. Oak is currently speaking the loudest on the G nish. Drink through 2023. Paul Hobbs Imports . — M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $ 40 92 Viña Cobos 2014 Bramare Malbec ( Luján de Cuyo ). Dense mossy aromas of blackberry are slightly murky. Forget about delicacy on the palate, this is full-bodied and clattering. Blackberry, cassis, black cherry and chocolate H avors G nish spicy. This…

ROSÉS 92 Waters 2016 Patina Vineyard Rosé ( Walla Walla Valley ). This rare single-vineyard rosé is all Syrah. Pale peach in color, it brings aromas of blood orange and strawberry that are followed by a textured lively palate with an extended G nish. It’s one of the best rosés the state has produced to date. Editors’ Choice . — S.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $ 22 88 Airfield Estates 2016 Sangiovese Rosé ( Yakima Valley ). A very pale peach color, this wine brings bright aromas of strawberry Jolly Rancher, cherry and kiwi. It drinks just a hair oI dry, with tart fruit flavors, providing plenty of easydrinking pleasure. — S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 15 88 Julia’s Dazzle 2016 Benches Vineyard Rosé ( Horse Heaven Hills). This pale peachcolored…

The best examples always turn to the real deal, wither in dried, peel, purée or whole form. Fruit beers—I don’t know any other beer style that elicits such extreme reactions. Like Springsteen, the Yankees, Woody Allen movies or even beets, people either seem to love ’em or hate ’em; there is no inbetween. In my experience, the folks that generally regard fruit beers as overly confected, sweet or “artificial”-tasting might be stuck in the past or just picking up the wrong selections to try. Sometimes it’s tough to move beyond a negative perception once you’ve had a distasteful beer that you believe exemplifies the category as a whole. Before the craM explosion, or even still, with some large-production selections, artificial extracts and flavorings can give fruit beers their flavor. But…