Innholdsfortegnelse for CA Travel Bookazine 2017 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Famed writers, artists and musicians the world over have long extolled the allure of the California experience. Its magnetic blend of upscale, casual, chic and eccentric adventures can be found in every corner of the state. There’s a reason that California looms large in the global psyche: Its astounding scenery, vibrant characters and refined but rustic vibe represent some of the most exciting aspects of American culture. For wine and food travelers, California is pure magic and a world-class destination that’s second to none. For wine and food travelers, California is pure magic and a world-class destination that’s second to none. Countless chefs have found fame in—or gleefully decamped to—this land of teeming gardens, artisanal ranches and harbors hauling in the day’s catch. In fact, touring the ever-evolving hit list…

Giant redwoods, breathtaking coastline, great seafood and elegant Pinot Noir make this rugged region a treat for visitors. Artists flourish in small towns where a counterculture spirit lives on. MENDOCINO HEADLANDS STATE PARK Steps from the town’s art galleries, a spectacular view of the ocean awaits from a path along wind-swept cliffs. Warm up in the Victorian-style Ford House Museum aft erward. PENNYROYAL FARM Tour the milking parlor and meet the goats and sheep that help this farmstead craft its cheeses that pair perfectly with the puretasting Pinot Noir. SARACINA VINEYARDS Aft er a stroll of the organic gardens at John Fetzer’s contemporary stone-andglass winery and barrel cave, you can sample estate-grown olive oil and honey. Don’t miss the Pick and Shovel Zinfandel. POINT ARENA LIGHTHOUSE Step back in time…

At the northern verge of the Anderson Valley, Chef Janelle Weaver and owner Daniel Townsend have created The Bewildered Pig, a restaurant in complete harmony with its remote, rugged environment. This rustic dining spot offers hyper-local cuisine that’s prepared with impeccable skill. Designed to pair with Weaver’s earthy fare, the wine list celebrates both its Mendocino neighbors and international selections. SMOKED SALMON MOUSSE WITH CROSTINI 2 cups cream cheese, at room temperature 7 ounces hot-smoked salmon (preferably wild-caught king) Zest of 1 lemon Salt, to taste Pepper, to taste Lemon juice, to taste 2 tablespoons lemon olive oil (or goodquality, extra-virgin olive oil) 1 bunch chives, finely chopped, for garnish Place 1 cup cream cheese, 6 ounces salmon and lemon zest in food processor. Pulse until smooth. Place mixture in…

It wouldn’t be right to call Sonoma County the land of milk and honey, because it’s the land of so much more. Milk and honey figure in, but so do wine, olive oil, cheese, bread, beer, spirits, preserves, oysters and all manner of produce, especially the region’s esteemed Gravenstein apples. Encompassing 1,500 square miles and more than 50 miles of coastline, Sonoma County stretches from the Napa Valley to the powerful PaciG c Ocean. Diversity abounds here in food, wine, climate and geography. Nearly half a million people live and work in the region, many in the wine industry, but many not. The towns of Healdsburg and Sonoma off er charming central squares inH uenced by the region’s Spanish and Mexican heritage. Smaller outposts, like Bodega Bay and Jenner overlook…

Fog-cooled and refreshingly undeveloped, these windswept, rolling hills once grew grapes almost exclusively for sparkling wine. The Napa side of Carneros is changing, as many famous Pinot Noir and Chardonnay growers build wineries of their own. Meanwhile, the riverfront city of Napa has a booming restaurant scene. RESTAURANT AT THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA AT COPIA Next door to Oxbow, this new restaurant helmed by Culinary Institute chefs spotli ghts global flavors and fresh ingredients. DOMAINE CARNEROS A French-style chateau perched on a hill surrounded by vines, this is a peaceful, pretty oasis. Enjoy sparkling wines served tableside and paired with caviar, charcuterie and select cheeses. HYDE DE VILLAINE A partnership between grower Larry Hyde and Aubert de Villaine of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanée- Conti, the winery makes elegantly…

The name Two Birds/ One Stone refers in part to Douglas Keane and Sang Yoon, the chefs and business partners who met while contestants in Bravo’s Top Chef Masters. It also stands for the Japanese and California flavors that come together at their new dining destination, which was an immediate hit upon its debut in St. Helena in 2016. The restaurant occupies the 1880s stone winery at Freemark Abbey, a property established by Josephine Tychson, the first woman vintner in California. “The produce [in Napa Valley] is better than anywhere else in the world,” says Keane. “Elephant-heart plums might be my favorite local product. Acid, umami, sweetness and even a pinch of bitter, all rolled into one beautiful, juicy stone fruit. “We wanted to offer something completely unique from all…

Many seeking the refinement, se- renity and sensual stimulation of wine country automatically defer to high-profile locales such as Napa or Sonoma, but all of that and more await astute oenophiles at Livermore Valley's Wente Vineyards. Considered a "hidden gem", this expansive property was designed to show- case Wente Vineyards' family of wines while educating and entertaining those who come in search of it. An ideal day at this multi-faceted destina- tion is defined by each visitor's personal tastes. While epicureans will surely enjoy wine-tasting segueing to a seasonally driven, gourmet dinner at the on-site white-linen restaurant, 18 holes on the Greg Norman-designed championship golf-course followed by drinks in the club- house or lunch on The Grill's outdoor terrace will suit the competitive sect. Meanwhile, the artisanal- minded can blend…

Even without its gorgeous vineyard vistas and increasingly excellent wines, the Sierra Foothills region beckons as a rich travel destination. These hills, which rise from the flat farmland of the San Joaquin to the soaring Sierra Nevada mountains, held vast treasure long before any wine was made. James Marshall discovered gold in the gravel bottom of the American River at Sutter’s Mill in 1848. By the next year, tens of thousands of would-be miners known as the Forty-Niners converged on the region to stake claims and seek riches. Ramshackle encampments along every river soon became Wild West-style towns with crowded hotels and saloons. While a few prospectors did get rich, others realized there was more reliable money in selling the miners supplies, food and drink; Levi Straus & Co. launched…

Abrick-walled former general store built in 1855 in a Gold Rush town on the American River is now home to Café Mahjaic. Owner/executive chef John Metropulos has a knack for inventive and unexpected flavor combinations, like this signature dish at his restaurant in Lotus. CHOCOLATE CHIPOTLE PRAWNS 2 tablespoons olive oil 10 large prawns (16/20 or U15 per pound) 1 tablespoon minced shallots 1 teaspoon minced garlic 2 teaspoons minced chipotle peppers 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 teaspoon cocoa powder (preferably Scharffen Berger) Salt and pepper, to taste 1 cup white wine 1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar 1 tablespoon cold butter 2 cups cooked jasmine rice 2 tablespoons chopped chives, for garnish ½ avocado, diced, for garnish Warm sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Add olive oil, and heat…

In this laid-back region, fourth- and fifth-generation farming families are now making contemporary-style Zinfandel and experimental white wines. In addition, they’re branching out to craft unusual Iberian and Italian varieties. LODI WINE & VISITOR CENTER Providing a terrific introduction to the region’s wines, this tasting room features bottlings from nearly 80 local vintners, with eight different wines served daily. The gift shop highlights local craft s and products. OAK FARM VINEYARDS You can book a private tasting room for up to 10 guests at this new winery built on a historic homestead, or simply stroll into its beautiful wood and stone hospitality center. M2 WINES A summer concert series and some of the area’s richest, ripest wines await guests at this contemporary-styled winery. MICHAEL DAVID WINERY The fast-growing producer of…

Warm, breezy Livermore Valley has outstanding, but lesser-known wineries, plus a burgeoning music and food scene. All this awaits within easy reach of San Jose and San Francisco. WENTE VINEYARDS The elegant Restaurant at Wente merits a visit, especially during the vineyard’s summer outdoor concert series. At the main winery, which is a few miles away, the Wente Winemakers Studio offers a fun, interactive wine-blending experience. NOTTINGHAM CELLARS Outstanding Bordeaux-style reds from young winemaker Collin Cranor provide the main draw. You can stroll next door for a Hella Hoppy double IPA at craft brewer Altamont Beer Works. CAMPO DI BOCCE Pro football legend and video game magnate John Madden has always liked this combination bocce grounds and Italian restaurant. He points out that bocce players only use one hand, so…

By the mid 1800s, Sonoma County was booming. Visitors ventured here in search of romance, relaxation, and culture inspired by the Geysers. Steam billowed along mountain slopes. Storekeepers set up shops. Nurseries and orchards bloomed in this local paradise. It was in this pioneering spirit that Geyser Peak Winery was founded. Established in 1880, it remains one of the longest standing bonded wineries in California For over a century, a series of visionary pioneers guided Geyser Peak, often persevering against the odds. From the dry days of Prohibition, and through the heydays of beer and cocktails, Geyser Peak prevailed. The predecessors paved the way with an uncompromising focus on quality and a deep connection to the earth. For nearly two decades, Winemaker Ondine Chattan has bridged Geyser Peak’s vibrant history…

BIG SUR ROAD CLOSURE Highway One is closed at Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge, which is being replaced after damage from California’s winter storms. The new bridge is expected to open in late September 2017. For updates, see Caltrans: dot.ca.gov Although Santa Lucia Highlands ranks as one of the premier winemaking districts in Monterey, River Road is one of the few areas with tasting rooms where visitors can kick back and sip wine. Follow this route from the coast and the sandy shores of Monterey Bay. URBAN WINE ROW The heart of Marina’s epicurean evolution, this winery warehouse district features Comanche Cellars, Cima Collina and Sinecure Wine. FORT ORD DUNES STATE PARK Hit the steeply sloping sands for epic sunset views across the Monterey Bay. You could get lucky and spot a…

Emanuele Bar tol ini “I grew up in a family where food was the center of the day,” says La Balena Chef Emanuele Bartolini about his upbringing in one of the oldest neighborhoods in Florence, Italy. “My grandmother was the chef.” In the morning, he’d go with her to the market for fresh ingredients, then come home to make meals entirely by hand. “And the next day,” he says, “Basically repeat.” In 1998, Bartolini came to New York City when his wife, Anna, attended NYU. He was nervous about whether he would appreciate American culture and customs, but he began to love the lifestyle. Bartolini worked in restaurants, which included a three-year stint as manager of Del Posto. For vacation, they oft en visited Anna’s relatives in Carmel-by-the-Sea. “I always…

Before it was divided into subregions in 2014, Paso Robles was the state’s largest appellation. Its terrain ranges from flatlands and hills to steep mountains. Visitors find plenty to enjoy—thrill rides, tasting rooms, rock ‘n’ roll and vintage aircraft. MARGARITA ADVENTURES ZIP LINES For thrills, soar above oak savannahs and vineyards at Santa Margarita Ranch. Grapes from the historic estate go into wines from Ancient Peaks, which has a tasting room in Santa Margarita. Also, sample hard-to-find brews at Dunbar Brewing Public House. PASOLIVO Although this olive-oil producer has a shop in town, head to the ranch. There, you can sample dozens of flavored and homegrown extra-virgin olive oils, an ideal tasting diversion from more wine. TIN CITY This warehouse district south of downtown Paso Robles offers something for all…

PROSCIUTTO-WRAPPED ARTICHOKES 2 large artichokes Salt, to taste Pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon minced thyme 1 lemon ¼ teaspoon chili flake 8 slices prosciutto 1 4-ounce ball burrata 2 cloves minced garlic Remove tough outer leaves from artichokes until tender core is reached. Trim fibrous exterior from base/stem. Cut artichokes in half lengthwise. Scoop out any choke or prickly interior leaves. Cut tips offremaining leaves to leave only edible parts. Heat oven to 500?F. Place artichokes cut-sidedown in small baking dish. Season with salt, pepper, olive oil, thyme, squeeze of lemon juice and chili flakes. Add 3 tablespoons water and tightly cover. Bake until tender, about 30–45 minutes. Cool artichokes to room temperature. Split burrata into four pieces. Place burrata into cavity of each artichoke…

Long before the wine industry exploded, Santa Barbara excelled at the tourism game. Set between the deep blue Pacific Ocean and the sharply rising Santa Ynez Mountains, the city, resplendent with Spanish- Colonial architecture and almost always basking in ideal weather, is a sight to behold. Today, its streets are lined with shops and feature more than two-dozen tasting rooms, particularly in the Funk Zone, a recently redeveloped neighborhood of food-and-drink establishments near the waterfront. The live music, theater and visual arts scenes are booming, and a festival of some sort takes place every month. Over the mountains in the Santa Ynez Valley, cool-climate grapes like Pinot Noir as well as warm-weather varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon thrive. Those diverse growing conditions are present thanks to the valley’s east-west topography that…

Chrystal “Chef Pink” DeLongpre and her wife, Courtney Rae, were just days away from moving from Santa Barbara to Los Angeles when they decided that they couldn’t raise their daughter in the big city. So they turned to Craigslist, where they found a 300-square-foot former hot-dog shop for sale. The couple decided to create a hyperlocal sandwich eatery in Solvang, the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley. They work with surrounding farms to find produce, and Rae pickles veggie scraps that would otherwise be tossed in the compost bin. “We do really real farm-to-table,” says DeLongpre. “We get all of our poultry and pork from a single-source farmer who [raises] the animals just for us. “When we eat dinner out, and especially with a drink, it’s definitely SY Kitchen,” she…

Just a short drive from Southern California’s population centers, Temecula offers a taste of country life. Wineries are raising quality, and travelers can enjoy tons of other recreational fun. HOT AIR BALLOONS Start your morning with a hot-air balloon ride that reveals Temecula’s unique setting between desert and sea. Many different compani es offer fli ghts. PECHANGA RESORT & CASINO With the largest casino floor i n Cali forni a, Pechanga features more than 4,000 slot machines and 150 table games. Check the schedule for musicals, concerts, boxing and comedy shows. WILD WONDERS, INC. Traveling with kids? They can experience up-close encounters with animals from around the world on interactive tours at this rescue zoo (appointments required). Programs highlight cheetahs, boas, wallabies and more. DE PORTOLA WINE TRAIL Quality-focused wineries…

REGIONS MENDOCINO/LAKE Two very distinct regions side by side— one coastal and the other mountainously inland. Combined, they offer everything from cool-climate Pinot Noir to burly Petite Sirah. SONOMA COUNTY Just about every grape variety grows and prospers within its varied terroirs, from the cool of Carneros to the inland warmth of Cloverdale. NAPA VALLEY Famed for Cabernet Sauvignons and Bordeaux blends, Napa also astounds with Sauvignon Blanc, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. All do well in Napa’s flatlands, benches and mountains. SIERRA FOOTHILLS Rugged and remote with an abiding ability to grow great Rhône-inspired varieties, the Foothills also continues to nurture its deep legacy of old vines, especially Zinfandel. LODI One of California’s most prolific wine centers, Delta-influenced Lodi is overcoming old biases with a flurry of crisp, unexpected whites…

This unpretentious, upcoming wine region offers a dormant volcano, sophisticated wines, 19th-century history and awesome bass fishing in Clear Lake, the largest freshwater body in California. BRASSFIELD ESTATE WINERY One of Lake County’s most ambitious wineries occupies a sprawling 2,500-acre property just 10 minutes from the lake. Taste potent red blend Eruption while you watch for a chance to observe the resident wild bears. BOATIQUE WINERY Ogle a dozen rare, sleek powerboats dating to the 1930s—including Chri s-Craft s, an amphibious car and an 805-horsepower Van Dam—and taste one of the best Malbecs in California. KELSEYVILLE The town’s folksy Main Street seems like a 1950s time warp. Three good winery tasting rooms, an ice cream shop and Studebakers Coffee House & Deli make it ideal for a mid-day stroll and…

Some of the state’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grows in this region. The valley largely follows the path of its namesake river, so called for Russian fur traders in the 19th century. Scenic country roads crisscross the region to the Pacific Ocean. ARMSTRONG REDWOODS STATE NATURAL RESERVE Cool off beneath ancient redwoods that are some of the tallest in the world. One of few remaining old-growth redwood forests, the reserve encompasses 805 acres and offers peaceful refuge and mellow trails. J VINEYARDS & WINERY Devoted to making sparkling wines as well as estate-grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the winery’s real pull is the Bubble Room, a sit-down, multicourse dining experience that lives up to its effervescent name. FARMHOUSE INN An oasis of luxury surrounded by grapevines, this highly rated…

CHARRED CAULIFLOWER SALAD WITH PECAN PURÉE, VADOUVAN VINAIGRETTE AND MEDJOOL DATES 1 large white cauliflower, cut into small florets 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil Salt, to taste Black pepper, to taste Pecan Purée* Vadouvan Vinaigrette** 1 cup toasted pecans 16 Medjool dates, pitted and halved 2 cups lightly packed young kale, torn roughly Heat oven to 450?F. Warm large, heavy skillet over high heat. Add grapeseed oil and cauliflower in single layer, cooking in batches, if necessary. Cook about 5 minutes, until charred in spots. Transfer to baking sheet, and toss with salt and pepper to taste. Roast 5 minutes. Transfer to mixing bowl. On large platter, spread pecan puree evenly. Dress warm cauliflower lightly with vinaigrette, and arrange atop puree. Top with pecans, dates and kale. Sprinkle with additional vinaigrette.…

NAPA: TOP GRAPES •CABERNET SAUVIGNON California’s finest Cabs and Bordeaux-style red blends come from here. The wines are lush, yet balanced and dry, with ripe, supple tannins. The best examples can age for decades. •MERLOT Merlot can be picky about where it grows, but when it’s situated correctly (oft en at higher elevation), it sings. Smooth and delicious, it shows red cherry, and frequently, chocolate. •SYRAH Syrah gains welcome complexity in cool climates. From the right pockets, wi nes are soft and nuanced in blackberry, oft en showing gamy, violet and pepper notes. •ZINFANDEL In terms of structure, Zins here can resemble Cabernet. Balanced and elegant, they retain a briary, brambly personality. •PETITE SIRAH Napa brings balanced elegance to a variety that can be rustic. Always full bodied, heady and…

Take a fresh look at Lodi, where local Michael David Winery is sweeping up accolades for its robust, complex, utterly original releases. Wine Enthusiast awarded their voluptuous 2012 Petite Petit the title of 2015 #2 Wine of the Year and chose Lodi as Wine Region of the Year, while their madly popular 7 Deadly Zins, redolent of white pepper and spice, was named an IMPACT “Hot Brand” in 2015 and 2016. Not long ago, Lodi was better known for farming than for wine. The Phillips family had been cultivating fruits and vegetables here for five generations when in the 1980s Michael Phillips began finessing small batch artisan wine into releases that were both powerful as a superhero and balanced as a poem. After launching a bonded winery in 1984, his…

San Francisco pulsates at the meeting point of some of the country’s most innovative food, wine, technology and arts scenes. Surrounded by awe-inspiring natural landscapes, visitors can experience the city’s idiosyncratic culture and also savor top-notch cuisine. FOOD & DRINK Where to Eat San Francisco is home to some of the world’s most dynamic restaurants. Celebrating California’s bounty, the farm-to-table movement dominates the Bay Area culinary outlook. Establishments like Al’s Place, Octavia and Spruce focus on sustainable cuisine. At Bar Agricole, sit on the patio among the herbs featured in its everchanging menu. Douglas fir is a favored ingredient of Evan and Sarah Rich at Rich Table, where it pops up in everything from pierogi to whimsical cocktails. Commonwealth brings a touch of molecular gastronomy to its New American dishes…

Retrace the trails that prospectors followed in 1849 through the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Vineyards that produce a rich variety of wines surround quaint 19thcentury towns. RENWOOD WINERY One of the biggest and best wineries in the Foothills, Renwood offers an extensive tasting menu, snack options and comfortable indoor and outdoor areas to chill with friends. TASTE RESTAURANT & WINE BAR Cozy and casually elegant, this restaurant in Plymouth serves arguably the best food in the Foothills. It’s a convenient stop for lunch or dinner aft er a tour of wineries in the Shenandoah Valley. TERRA D’ORO WINERY The name translates as “Land of Gold.” This winery (formerly known as Montevina) offers a taste of history with its Deaver Zinfandel made from a 130-yearold vineyard, plus nine other consistently fine wines.…

Here, oenophiles can taste their way across the globe thanks to the adventurous nature of the region’s growers and winemakers, and a classic Medi-terranean climate fortified by breezes from the Sacramento River Delta that provide “natural air-conditioning” and ideal conditions for a diverse assortment of cultivars. More than 100 different winegrape varieties are planted through the Lodi American Viticultural Area (AVA), including a number of experimental plantings at fertile spots like Mokelumne Glen Vineyards, owned and farmed by growers Bob and Mary Lou Koth and son Brett.Specializing in German and Austrian varieties such as Kerner—a floral mineralic “workhorse white” matching Riesling’s versatility but with increased soil adaptability—and inky, blackberry and plum-rich Dornfelder. Much sought after by cutting-edge California producers like Matthew Rorick of Forlorn Hope Wines and David Ramey of…

Flat, fertile farmland runs 450 miles from San Joaquin Valley in the south to Sacramento Valley in the north. Collectively called the Inland Valleys, this is one of the most productive agricultural regions in the world. It features landscapes lush with fruit trees, almond and pistachio groves, rice paddies and alfalfa fields. Colorful produce stands dot the area, along with small towns that remain relaxed and slow-paced. Interstate 5, which connects Southern and Northern California, runs through the region. Many travelers plow straight through the miles that link the mountainous Grapevine section north of Los Angeles to the Bay Area, to Sacramento and as far north as Redding, where the Inland Valleys region narrows as it approaches Mount Shasta. But those who stop along the way to smell the Merlot…

This is your evening, not ours,” says Executive Chef Kelly McCown as he welcomes diners to The Kitchen. For more than two decades, the restaurant has wowed patrons with both its platters (five-course meals that highlight fresh, local ingredients) and patter (the chef acts as emcee). Diners can get seconds of any dish they like, and at “Intermission,” freely wander into the kitchen for snacks and conversation. APPLEWOOD-SMOKED CALIFORNIA STEELHEAD 2 Sierra Beauty apples (or other firm, sweet/tart apple), cored and julienned 2 tablespoons Lemon- Mustard Vinaigrette* Fennel salt, to taste** ½ cup crème fraîche 8–10 ounces hot-smoked steelhead or salmon 2 tablespoons caviar (preferably Passmore Ranch or Sterling Royal) 1 bunch baby watercress 4 pumpernickel or buckwheat crackers Place apples in mixing bowl. Toss gently with Lemon-Mustard Vinaigrette. Add…

MONTEREY: TOP GRAPES •CHARDONNAY Flavors range from ripe and tropical in the Santa Lucia Highlands to bright and fresh from Arroyo Seco and elsewhere. •PINOT NOIR Expect variety: It’s lush and concentrated in the Santa Lucia Highlands, well structured from Chalone and racy and delicate in Arroyo Seco. •SYRAH Rustic, gamy and wild in Carmel Valley, it conveys styles from savory to zesty in the Santa Lucia Highlands and Salinas Valley. •RIESLING Old vines are common, which produce affordable, citrus-driven wines—some are sweet. •SAUVIGNON BLANC Lean and grassy in cool parts of the Salinas Valley, this variety is fuller and more Bordeaux-like from Carmel Valley. Few places in California have welcomed visitors longer than Monterey County, home to one of the four presidios that Spanish colonists established on the West…

In the 1990s, Sabrine Rodems worked as an electrician at the Opera House in San Francisco, as well as a rigger on film and television sets. But then she wanted to go more “science-y” like her sisters, one of whom was a doctor, the other a research scientist. “We don’t need another doctor,” they said. “We need an enologist in the family.” The light clicked on. “Wine is the best of both worlds,” says Rodems. “I got to get my science ya-yas out and make wine, which is a really creative thing to do.” She graduated from the University of California, Davis, with a master’s degree in viticulture and enology, and joined Wrath in 2004. In 2011, she launched her own label, Scratch (which is scheduled to open a Carmel-by-the-Sea…

AVILA BEACH Kayak, surf or swim in the morning and then walk out on the pier to watch sea lions play in the waters below. Hit the Sinor-LaVallee tasting room in the village. SAN LUIS OBISPO Downtown packs in dining options, from the recently renovated SLO Brew (overnight accommodations available in the upstairs loft s) to Fromagerie Sophie. Also peek in at the Mission (founded in 1772). BICYCLE THROUGH EDNA VALLEY Even inexperienced cyclists can spin through this gently rolling terrain. Sip on Chard at Chamisal and then try Kynsi’s Pinot Noirs with the cheese pairing. AVILA VALLEY BARN A hit with kids, it features animals to feed and ride, as well as great seasoned corn on a stick. For relaxation, head down the street to Sycamore Springs for a…

Br ian Col l ins A native of Arroyo Grande, Brian Collins moved to San Francisco to attend culinary school in 2000. He found work at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, where he stayed six years. “The restaurant, [owner] Alice Waters and their style of cooking are my biggest influences,” he says. “It was important to learn that there are seasons within the seasons. It’s an inspiring environment.” In 2006, he moved back to the Central Coast, where he learned the financial side of the business as executive chef at Lido in the Dolphin Bay Resort. He then moved to Full of Life Flatbread in Los Alamos, one of the first American restaurants to elevate wood-fired cooking to an art form. He stayed until he was “100-percent ready” to strike out…

Ditch the car for the day and take this walking tour of downtown Santa Barbara. Showing offthe American Riviera at its best, the itinerary rambles from historic paseos flanked by whitewashed adobe walls to the bustling food and drink scene of the Funk Zone. SCARLETT BEGONIA This restaurant treats breakfast with gourmet sensibilities. It serves morning guests on the quaint patio of Victoria Court, away from the constant chatter of State Street. Start with a biscuit sampler, then opt for lemonricotta pancakes. HANDLEBAR & C’EST CHEESE Get a freshly roasted cup of coffee at Handlebar while you admire the historic Spanish outpost at El Presidio de Santa Báarbara State Historic Park. Around the corner, C’est Cheese features deliciously gooey lunches. COUNTY COURTHOUSE Head to the top of the clock tower…

CHILLED AVOCADO SOUP 3 avocados, peeled and pitted 1 cup chopped sweet basil 1/3 cup white balsamic vinegar 1/3 cup chopped red onion 1½ tablespoons honey 2 teaspoons kosher salt ¼ teaspoon togarashi (Japanese chilispice blend); more for garnish Salt, to taste Blac k pepper, to taste Min ced shallots, for garnish Basil blossoms, for garnish Combine all ingredients except garnishes in blender with 1 quart water. Purée until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until cold. Serve in small bowls or cups. Garnish with minced shallots, basil blossoms and togarashi. Serves 6–8. PAIR IT “This dish calls for a wine with lively acidity to match the high tones of white balsamic, while complementing the subtle bite of red onion and togarashi. It also needs enough weight…

Winery Guide MENDOCINO/LAKE COUNTY Brassfield Estate Winery (Clearlake Oaks) brassfieldestate.com; 707-998-1895 100% estate grown, produced, and bottled. Handcraft ed and family owned. Tasting room open daily from 11am–5pm. Tours by appointment only. Domaine Anderson Winery (Philo) domaineanderson.com; 707-895-3626 Led by winemaker Darrin Low, Domaine Anderson wines are craft ed with precision and care to express the uniqueness of the Anderson Valley terroir. The winery is dedicated to using sustainable techniques. Please come and visit us. Roederer Estate (Philo) roedererestate.com; 707-895-2288 Founded in 1982 in the Anderson Valley, Roederer Estate produces wines using only estate-grown grapes. The winery continues Champagne Louis Roederer’s centuries-old tradition of 7ne winemaking and of adding special oak-aged reserve wines to each blend. Stop in and taste the difference. Scharffenberger Cellars (Philo) scharffenbergercellars.com; 707-895-2957 Scharffenberger has been…

The two most rugged, remote and uncrowded wine regions in California stretch from the crashing surf of the Pacific Ocean in Mendocino to the high desert-like plateau where 4,300-foot Mount Konocti overlooks the freshwater oasis of Clear Lake. For decades,Mendocino and Lake counties have lured tourists with spectacular water views, fresh seafood, forests of redwood and oak and, of course, wine. While the two counties share a long border and the ability to make outstanding wines, each is worthy of a separate visit to explore, hike, fish, relax and taste varied vintages. The heart of Mendocino County, inland Ukiah Valley was celebrated in the 1970s for its back-to-the-land culture. Today, it earns renown for Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Chardonnay vines, as well as renowned wineries like Fetzer and Parducci. A…

Nestled between the cool Pacific Ocean and the warm Sacramento Valley, Lake County produces some of the most distinctive wines in America. Lake County’s wine industry first flourished in the late 1870’s, when European pioneers discovered this unique wine growing terroir. Marked by high elevation and the strong sunshine that accompanies it, the grapes develop thicker skins and produce wines intensely rich with phenolic compounds. Its unique location and rugged topography draw afternoon breezes across its hillsides, giving the region the cleanest air in the state and a climate that beautifully preserves the acidity of the grapes. This region is part of the North Coast American Viticultural Area and produces Cabernets and Sauvignon Blancs, as well as Bordeaux, Rhône and Spanish varietals. In 2016, Wine Enthusiast awarded 31 Lake County…

This valley’s nickname comes from Native American legend. Beneath the Mayacamas Mountains, with the sweet town of Glen Ellen at its heart, the valley’s vineyards favor hearty red varieties like Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon. A well-loved hiking and biking destination, Sonoma Valley offers several state and county parks. CARNEROS BREWING COMPANY/ CEJA VINEYARDS Longtime grape growers and vintners, the Ceja family have a wine-tasting room as well as a taproom and beer garden trellised in hops, where they share their lineup of microbrews. DONUM ESTATE Offering some of the finest estate-grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the appellation, Donum also features astounding outdoor sculptures created by artists like Keith Haring and Ai Weiwei. JACK LONDON STATE HISTORIC PARK The adventurous author’s home and other historic buildings are open for visits.…

Given the abundance of agriculture in Sonoma County, “farm to table” is practically a given in the local restaurant scene. But for Perry Hoffman, chef at SHED Café, the farm is the table. “Just outside my front door in Healdsburg, I can find miner’s lettuce, chickweed, lemon balm, sorrel and all sorts of mushrooms,” he says. “I see our hills as a table that is constantly spread.” The restaurant is part of the larger SHED concept, which also encompasses a market and gathering space. Locals can rub shoulders with their food and wine purveyors here over spectacular dishes prepared by Hoffman that change daily. “Every farm here has their niche products, and SHED was built to connect this agricultural community,” says Hoffman. “We work with around 15 farms—and some backyards—on…

Home to hot springs and a geyser, Calistoga offers resorts, spas and its famous mud baths as well as gourmet food and wine. Many tasting rooms cluster in the town, which is filled with early- 20th-century buildings. The appellation is known for Cabernet, old-vine Zinfandel and Charbono. ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON STATE PARK Named for the Treasure Island author who spent time locally, this is a serious place for hiking. It’s worth the effort to enjoy views from the summit of 4,343-foot Mount Saint Helena. BRASSWOOD BAR + BAKERY + KITCHEN Gourmet comfort food comes with an Italian accent with dishes like papardelle with short-rib sugo and herb-crusted lamb chops. It also offers complimentary corkage, which is a good excuse to stop by the Bottle Shop first. SOLBAR On the grounds…

SWEET CORN WITH WHITE MISO 4 ears corn 3 tablespoons unsalted butter ¼ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons Saikyo miso 1 tablespoon thinly sliced scallion greens, for garnish Shuck corn and clean remaining silk. Cream corn by scoring kernels lengthwise with large knife a few times around cob. Using sharp edge of knife, scrape corn pulp and milk into large bowl. Combine corn, butter and salt in sauté pan over medium-low heat. Stir until butter just melts. Add miso and cook, stirring oft en, until combined. Pour mixture into small serving bowl. Garnish with scallion greens. Serves 4 as a side dish. PAIR IT: Lauren Buzzeo, tasting director at Wine Enthusiast, suggests a California ode to Rhône like Paraduxx’s 2015 Proprietary White Wine from Napa Valley. A blend of 67% Viognier,…

Don’t be fooled by Lodi’s relaxed, farm-country feel. The region features fascinating wines and beautiful wineries with contemporary designs that make visits memorable. Lodi brings together gnarled 100-year-old vines and iconoclastic producers who craft adventurous new wines. Lodi is set along Interstate 5 to the east of the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, where Northern California’s two major rivers intersect. The area has been a farming paradise since the first pioneers rolled down from the Sierra Nevada in Conestoga wagons. Fruits, vegetables and grains grow well here, but wine grapes have steadily taken over acreage that belonged to the row crops and once-famous Flame Tokay table grapes. The region is named for its central city, population 65,000. “This is a place where the police cars are decorated with grape clusters and the…

Richard Hyman named his new Lodi restaurant Fenix, a nod to the mythical bird that rises from the ashes. The name pays tribute to Hyman’s own comeback after suffering serious burns at his previous restaurant. At this modern, eclectic eatery marking new beginnings, the chef serves up dishes that are bold and creative, but not fussy. He prepares this dish Argentinian style, with vivid colors and strong flavors. GRILLED SKIRT STEAK WITH CHIMICHURRI 2 (12-ounce) skirt steaks 1 bunch cilantro, stems removed 1 bunch flat parsley, stems removed ¼ cup chopped fresh oregano leaves ¼ cup chopped sage leaves ¼ cup chopped fresh rosemary leaves 2 shallots, peeled and chopped 12 cloves garlic, chopped Juice of 2 lemons 2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar 1 jalapeño, seeded and chopped 1½ cups good-quality…

Residents of San Jose and Oakland may want to keep it secret, but they have a wonderful winecountry destination in their backyard. Although the Livermore Valley flies under the radar, it’s arguably the birthplace of modern California wine, and it continues to nurture boutique wineries that showcase estategrown vintages. The small, rolling valley sits just east of the main Bay Area hub and north of San Jose. Separated from San Francisco Bay by rugged hills, it benefits from the same cool maritime breezes as many other Pacific Coast wine regions. Close to San Francisco and Oakland airports, it’s served by two interstates and is less crowded and more affordable than hotspots in the Napa Valley and Sonoma County. Two of its largest wineries, Wente Vineyards and Concannon Vineyard, have in-depth…

The spacious dining room of Uncle Yu’s at the Vineyard in downtown Livermore provides a sophisticated setting for fine pan-Asian cuisine. To enhance the exotic flavors, owner/sommelier Nick Liang offers 600 wines by the bottle and 50 by the glass, including an in-depth selection of Livermore wines. GOOD FORTUNE SALAD 4 ounces rice noodles 2 cups taro root, finely shredded into 4-inch pieces 1 cup peanuts 1½ ounces red cabbage, finely shredded into 4-inch pieces 2 cups green papaya, skinned, finely shredded into 4-inch pieces 1 small jicama, skinned, finely shredded into 4-inch pieces 2 cups cucumber, skinned, seeded, finely shredded into 4-inch pieces 2 cups carrots, finely shredded into 4-inch pieces 4 teaspoons grapefruit pulp, sliced into small pieces ¼ pound smoked salmon, cut into thin slices 4 inches…

NEW CLAIRVAUX VINEYARD In 2000, Trappist-Cistercian monks revived winemaking activities at the former Great Vina Ranch, which was established in the late 19th century. Taste a rare American Assyrtiko and see a vineyard and abbey that follow medieval traditions. DELTA KING HOTEL & RESTAURANT Relive Sacramento’s river-town history with a dinner of braised lamb shank and a bottle of Fiddletown Zinfandel before settling in for the night aboard this classic riverboat. ROBERT MONDAVI INSTITUTE Many of the world’s top winemakers and viticulturists learned their skills at University of California, Davis—and you can too. Call or email in advance to attend a lecture or tour this cutting-edge learning center focused on wine and food that includes a research winery, brewery and gardens. DELICATO FAMILY VINEYARDS Charge your Tesla and sample brands…

Thanks to dramatic terrain on the Central Coast, it takes only a few minutes to drive from hot-climate mountains to the foggy sea. This is especially true around Carmel, where an afternoon horseback ride can segue into gallery hopping and alfresco dining in the oceanside village. 17-MILE DRIVE Get out the camera to capture crashing waves, rocky shoreline, iconic cypress trees and the rolling fairways at Pebble Beach Golf Links, which has hosted the U.S. Open five times. CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA This charming town is packed with art galleries, tasting rooms and bistros that sit beneath towering trees. The white sand of Carmel Beach is a favorite of dog walkers and joggers. WINE TASTING Wineries abound, but hit Joyce Vineyards for its art-filled, urban-chic vibe, or enjoy a picnic on the large…

PORK BELLY ROAST 4 tablespoons sea salt 4 tablespoons sugar Black pepper, to taste 2–3 pounds pork belly Mix salt, sugar and add touch of pepper. Massage mixture onto pork belly. Refrigerate 6-8 hours. Heat oven to 375?F. Place pork belly on broiling rack atop a sheet tray. Cook 25 minutes. Reduce heat to 175?F and cook 3–4 hours, until top of pork browns and starts to caramelize. Remove pork, reserving pan juices, and let cool. Refrigerate 6–7 hours. Cut pork into 1-inch slices. Reheat in skillet with pan juices. Serve alongside arugula and red-onion salad, with homemade aioli on the side. Serves 4–6. PAIR IT: Bartolini says the dish will go with Ian Brand Grenache, Damien Georis Cabernet Franc, Figge Cellars Syrah or, for a white wine, Wrath Falanghina.…

From the wooded hiking trails of Paso Robles to the smashing surf of Pismo Beach, San Luis Obispo County has always been an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise. But thanks to the explosive growth of the region’s wine and beer industries, the county is now a thriving hospitality hub that offers luxury and budget accommodations as well as a vibrant restaurant scene. Life in the northern part of the county revolves around Paso Robles, which grew around healing hot springs in the 1800s. Cowboys and farmers dominated here until winemakers began to explore the region’s varied terroirs. By the mid-2000s, the area achieved acclaim for its robust and rich wines. The region’s 200-plus wineries line Highway 101, and they range from sprawling estates to urban collectives like Tin City, which also offers…

The Santa Ynez Valley is the heart of Santa Barbara wine country, but that doesn’t mean it’s for adults only. This itinerary offers funky fun for all ages as well as unique places where wine lovers can relax. LOS ALAMOS In this one-street town, food and drink options like Babi’s Beer Emporium are nestled between antiques stores. Pick up picnic supplies at Bob’s Well Bread or Bell Street Farm. BUBBLE SHACK Sip on sparklers from the Fess Parker family in Los Olivos, an 1880s farming and ranching town that’s now home to wineries, galleries and shops. FOXEN CANYON Drive bucolic Alisos Canyon into Foxen Canyon. Bring a picnic to Zaca Mesa Winery to pair with its Black Bear Block wine, made from the first Syrah vineyard planted in the county.…

Jesse Gaddy & Jul ian Mar tinez When two twentysomething chefs showed up on the downtown Santa Barbara scene and pledged to improve classic Central Coast dishes like tri-tip and pinquito beans, most folks responded with sideways glances. But with Barbareño, the restaurant they opened in October 2014, Jesse Gaddy and Julian Martinez have realized their dream. Each night these friends, who met at Claremont Colleges in California, serve delicious food and local lore, supported by a knowledgeable staff. The well-manicured wine and beer list, managed by Lenka Davis, the wine director, highlights younger producers of lowalcohol, high-acid wines. “We knew we wanted to pay homage to the area, but we didn’t want to serve just California cuisine and have the same buzzwords that everyone had,” says Gaddy, who runs…

Just 90 minutes from the millions who live in San Diego and Los Angeles, the Temecula Valley is one of Southern California’s most popular playgrounds, especially for wine lovers. Pacific Ocean breezes that flow through the Rainbow Gap cool this warm region, which allow numerous varieties to ripen with power and panache. Big reds like Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon can thrive, and Italian varieties like Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio show promise. Clustered tightly together, more than three-dozen estate wineries, which include a growing number that offer food, make exploration easy. The tasting rooms can get overstuffed on weekends, often with bachelorette parties seeking sparkling almond wine, so it might be wise to come during the week. The warm climate makes Temecula wonderful for all sorts of outdoor activities, from golf…

The locally grown movement and a worldly eccentricity come together at Ponte Winery, thanks to chef Christy Moore. She combines obscure vegetables like spigarello, lollipop kale and red orach with other bounty grown nearby, including olives and olive oil from the property’s grove. Moore’s creative use of fresh ingredients and innovative touches add a little excitement to classic dishes. PAIR IT: The fresh acid and citrus notes of Ponte’s 2016 Rosé Spumante marry with the shellfish, while the bubbles cut through the rich curry broth. MUSSELS IN RED CHILI, TOMATO & COCONUT BROTH 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 2½ tablespoons minced garlic, divided 1 quart fish stock 1 16-ounce can tomatoes with juice (preferably Roma) 3 cups dry white wine 1 cup mango chutney (preferably Major Grey’s) 2 tablespoons red…

San Diego is known for its seemingly endless sunshine and 70 miles of beaches, but there’s more to this vacation- ready locale than the coast. San Diego County spans from the Pacific Ocean through forests and mountains to the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Urban centers, tucked-away villages and rural outposts dot the landscapes. Although the city of San Diego ranks as the eighth-largest metropolis in the U.S., it’s surprisingly compact. Stand on the waterfront, and you can see the airport and downtown skyscrapers arrayed around the sparkling blue bay. CITY SIGHTS What to Do In the heart of the city, the 1,200-acre Balboa Park is home to museums, performance venues and cottages that celebrate cultures from around the world. The park also encompasses the San Diego Zoo and its ark-like…