Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2017 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

As we celebrate Italy in this issue, we’re reminded of how impactful the country and its lifestyle have been in America, especially in promoting a wine and food culture we have embraced and emulated. For millennia, wine has been an integral part of daily life in Italy. Today it continues to be celebrated from north to south, whether sipped from rustic tumblers in an Umbrian village wine bar, swirled elegantly in Milan’s top restaurants, or simply popped open to enjoy with a plate of pasta midweek in Italian homes. These rituals have been translated onto our tables via a myriad of wines from Italy, most notably, Pinot Grigio and Prosecco. Approachable, foodfriendly, and oI ering a diverse array of styles and price points, these Italian charmers truly helped expand wine…

PARIS: Where to Drink Now Cocktails, craft beer, natural wine—the Parisian bar scene has never been more dynamic. Jennifer Ceaser tells you why its time to bid adieu to the house red and get your drink on at a slew of new spots in the City of Light. I L LUSTRATIONS BY REBECCA B RADLEY The Traditionalist Bar at the Hotel de JoBo he Hote 1 A former 17th-century convent in Le Marais houses this dimly lit lounge adorned with oil paintings of the hotel’s namesake, Josephine Bonaparte. Sample the seasonal drinks menu or ask one of the talented bartenders to whip up something tailored to your tastes. One constant is The Last Word, a potent combination of gin, green chartreuse, maraschino liqueur and lime juice. Among the French, it’s…

A few years back, a respected member of the New York City wine retail community expressed to me in no uncertain terms how hard it was for her to sell a case of Syrah. “It’s easier to get rid of chlamydia,” she quipped. That may still be true from a sales point of view: Syrah has never captured huge numbers in the varietal market, trailing Cabernet Sauvignon (and Merlot and Pinot Noir) by substantial margins. But from the perspective of a wine consumer, Syrah is oM en the better choice, oI ering more variety and value than Cabernet Sauvignon. For starters, it’s easier to grow in a variety of locales and climates. Even in cool regions, like New York’s Finger Lakes, where Cabernet Sauvignon rarely loses its underripe bellpepper- like…

Vino Nobile was once Tuscany’s most revered wine. It hit the top of the charts in 1685, when Renaissance poet Francesco Redi praised Montepulciano’s flagship red as the “King of all wines” in his celebrated dithyrambic poem “Bacco in Toscana”. The poem and the wine soon became favorites at Europe’s royal courts. The journey of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has been a long rollercoaster ride, one of spectacular highs and stagnant lows. If you haven’t tried this wine lately, you’re missing out on the return of an Italian classic. While a work in progress, the last few vintages have revealed a steady rise of more polished, terroir-driven wines that boast aging potential and pedigree. The best part? With few exceptions, Vino Nobile costs much less than other Tuscan wines of…

RIESLING 96 Domaine Weinbach 2015 Clos des Capucins Cuvée Ste Catherine Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling ( Alsace). For full review see page 87. abv: 14% Price: $ 64 96 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2014 Clos Saint Urbain Rangen de Thann Grand Cru Riesling ( Alsace ). What to mention first? A hint of mossy earth, chamomile tisane, Cox Orange Pippin apples or lemon zest? All of these aromas dance on the nose. They are still totally shy on the taut, dry and concentrated palate. For now, it is mossy citrus that is most aromatic while rich fruit still needs to unfurl. This strikes a note of utter purity, of something soaring and bright. Right now this is totally brisk, invigorating and refreshing but its true colors won’t show for some time. Drink…

98 Torbreck 2013 The Factor Shiraz ( Barossa Valley ). Full-bodied and plush yet vibrant and imbued with fresh fruit, this is simply superb. The oak is present but never dominant, adding brown sugar and cinnamon elements to blueberry, roasted meat, espresso and black olive notes. A hint of peppery spice also creeps into this impossibly complex wine. The G nish combines power, length, freshness and dusty tannins, suggesting that while impressive now, it should age well. Drink now– 2030. Wine Creek . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 15.5% Price: $ 125 95 Henschke 2014 Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz ( Eden Valley ). From vines planted in 1912, this has been an icon of South Australia Shiaz since 1952, when it was G rst bottled as a singlevineyard wine.…

87 Stinson 2014 Chardonnay ( Monticello ). Bright in aromas of pineapple, lemon and green apple, but also boasting sweet cream and yeastiness, this wine is layered on the nose. Zippy and fresh, with ample acidity and H avors of subdued lemon and pineapple, it’s an easy wine to pair with dishes from halibut to a more robust pork chop. — C.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 24 87 The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Acte 12 of 1619 Chardonnay ( Virginia ). This wine has an intriguing bouquet of mango, straw and toasted nuts. Concentrated flavors of chamomile, lemon and a stony minerality mix playfully. Round in feel, with delicate acidity, the finish is smooth and dry. — C.D. abv: 12% Price: $ 22 87 The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Vintage Reserve Chardonnay…

My husband and I were visiting Mendoza for a milestone birthday, and the icing on the cake was Vendimia, the city’s annual celebration of the grape harvest. Plaza fountains flowed red, and it seemed a parade was around every corner. Perhaps a little chaos in the air, too. Upon the recommendation of a friend we decided to visit Cepas Elegidas, a winery in nearby Maipú. She knew the vintner, Brennan Firth, and helped arrange a tour for us. According to our guidebook, Maipú was a “feasible” cab ride from our homestay in downtown Mendoza. En route, we realized “feasible,” or any other point of reference, is rendered useless in the backseat of a speeding taxi in rural Argentina, with no hope for a Wi-Ficonnection or a cell phone enabled for…

A gift of wine shouldn’t be a potluck item: It’s better to offer something a little special, maybe even a bit unfamiliar. Enter Barolo Chinato, an after-dinner treat from Piedmont, Italy, that’s also one of today’s most compelling cocktail ingredients. Barolo Chinato is perhaps best considered as the fancy cousin to luscious Italian vermouths like Carpano Antica Formula. Instead of the basic Moscato base that’s commonly used for vermouth, Barolo Chinato begins with 100% Nebbiolo— in fact, certified DOCG Barolo wine—to which a blend of herbs, spices and bittering agents, macerated in grappa or grain alcohol, is added. Some versions lean heavily on clove, ginger and cinchona, while others include juniper, cardamom, orange peel, wormwood and gentian root. The resulting vino aromatizzato are rich, full bodied, complex and compelling. Sommelier…

One of the biggest challenges in roasting coffee is the raw beans absorbing whatever odors are around. There are two ways to deal with this: Roast the beans quickly, or use those odors to your advantage. Many contemporary coffee roasters are doing the latter, as they age raw beans in wine, whiskey or rum barrels. —Layla Schlack Wine Barrel Coffee These beans have a bold, distinct flavor that can be an acquired taste. The Mister G Coffee Company uses Cabernet Sauvignon barrels, which “not only impart a fruity snap and slight sweetness to the coffee, but also a depth and richness,” says Douglas Garner, the company’s roaster. Merlot fans will find a milder, rounder brew in Merlot-inflected beans from Orange County Coffee Roasters. Bourbon Barrel Coffee Caramel, vanilla and wood…

We know that wine choices are one area where you can regularly afford to give yourself an upgrade. Enjoying wine with a meal or friends is one of lifeís greatest pleasures. Why not make the most of those moments? Weíve taken the time to compile a list of wines that are sure to provide that same sense of satisfaction as an unexpected travel upgrade. Importantly, none of these bottles will break the bank. Buying a bottle that costs less than $25 but has received 90 or more points by a professional connoisseur isnít just smartóitís rewarding. We all grant ourselves little luxuries all the time, like gourmet foods, exotic ingredients, and the latest gadgets and gear. Pour yourself a 90+ point wine and raise a glass to the better things…

CHIANTI RUFINA 92 I Veroni 2013 Riserva ( Chianti Rufina ). For full review see page 96. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 30 92 Selvapiana 2012 Vigneto Bucerchiale ( Chianti Rufina ). Ripe berry, new leather, dark spice and a balsamic note are some of the aromas you’ll find in this full-bodied red. The firm palate oI ers black cherry, fresh mint and clove set against a backbone of fine-grained tannins that lend polish and structure. It’s already impressive but will continue to develop. Drink 2020–2030. Dalla Terra Winery Direct . Cellar Selection . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 35 90 Colognole 2011 Riserva del Don ( Chianti Rufina ). Made entirely from Sangiovese, this opens with alluring iris, black-skinned berry and cake spice scents. The succulent, approachable palate doles…

94 Benovia 2014 La Pommeraie Chardonnay ( Russian River Valley ). A rich, voluptuous nose gives way to crisp layers of lemon, pineapple and quince flavors in this barrel-kissed and fullbodied white. The ripeness of the fruit is brightened by stony minerality, allowing for a floral bite of apple blossom. — V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 48 94 Pellet Estate 2014 Sunchase Vineyard Chardonnay ( Sonoma Coast ). This is another stunner from Pellet Estate, from a high-elevation vineyard within the proposed Petaluma Gap appellation, which is highly influenced by fog and wind. Wet stone notes and a crisp, lemony acidity suggest freshness, neither detracting from body or texture. — V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $ 68 94 Small Vines 2014 TBH Vineyard Chardonnay ( Sonoma Coast ). This wine is…

Sure, Sonoma is best known for vineyards, but this vibrantly hued cocktail also hails from wine country. Duke’s, which opened last June in Healdsburg, California, uses local produce in its drinks. That makes sense, as its co-founder Tara Heffernon, a botanist, grows many of the herbs and edible H owers the bar uses. She also has an orchard and vineyard that supply ingredients. The ownership team of Heffernon and mixologist Scott Beattie worked together at SpoonBar, another Healdsburg spot and a pioneer in the California cocktail scene that specialized in fresh fruit infusions. The drink showcases and—according to the bar’s third co-founder, Laura Sanfilippo—was inspired by a local barrel-aged gin with a “creamy texture” that pairs well with carrot juice and spice. (The drink can be made with unaged gin,…

Ever since Botticelli painted “The Birth of Venus,” scallop shells have been a metaphor for beauty. But the real appeal of these mollusks is the sweet, meaty morsel inside. Scallops are found in every ocean and most cuisines throughout the world, from decadent gratinéed French coquilles St. Jacques to the intensely pungent, sweet dried scallops used in Cantonese dishes. They work well with most cooking methods and have special affinities with white wine, bacon, thyme, ginger, mushrooms, peanuts, lime and garlic. Live scallops in the shell are a rare treat and should be eaten raw or cooked simply. “There’s nothing better than scallops cooked whole on the grill,” says Chef José Andrés, who recently opened two seafood restaurants, Miami’s Bazaar Mar and Maryland’s Fish. “I also love to use raw…

ÒPeas are the bell ringing in spring,” says Jeremy Fox in his upcoming book, On Vegetables (Phaidon), scheduled for release this month. Fox, the executive chef at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica, California, is known for intricate vegetable concoctions, though his simpler dishes are equally impressive. The chef likes pea shoots for this salad; theyÕre delicious and widely available in the spring. Stir-fry the stems, include the leaves and reserve the sweet curly tendrils for garnish, as Fox does here. Buy the smallest peas you can find and don’t overcook them: They should pop like caviar. —Nils Bernstein PEAS & PECORINO 1½ pounds peas in pods (or 2 cups shelled) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon minced shallot ½ cup pea tendrils or shoots…

Rome may be a bustling capital city and one of the world’s leading tourist destinations, but it’s also a place to enjoy la dolce vita. It’s easy here to kick back with a glass of bubbly and a plate of local delicacies, or with a rare bottle and a threecourse dinner. From informal eateries to swanky restaurants and wine bars that are neighborhood institutions, here’s your guide to finding bites and bottles in the Eternal City. Enoteche (Wine Bars) Trimani Il Wine Bar Run by the Trimani family, this is the spot where Romans and visiting wine producers go to enjoy a glass or two with a bite of cheese or a meal. Housed next door to the Trimani wine shop, which was established in 1821 and is Rome’s oldest…

The 2014 vintage is the year Bordeaux came back to the market. Aft er three less-thanstellar years (2011, 2012 and 2013), this vintage has produced many excellent wines–some verging on superb–with quality that reaches deep into the unclassified estates. The 2014 vintage sings of fruit. The wines are open, delicious and juicy. Even at the top level—not always pleasant to taste at this age–the combination of fruit and succulent acidity is a joy. And because there are enough tannins, the red wines will age for many years to come. I take the greatest pleasure in tasting “everyday” Bordeaux. These are the wines that consumers don’t need a second mortgage to buy, oft en selling for $25 or less. In a good year, like 2014, these are the wines that should…

RÍAS BAIXAS 88 Castro Martin 2015 Family Estate Selection Sobre Lias Albariño ( Rías Baixas). Tropical fruit, melon and fresh carrot aromas lead to a shearing palate with sharp acidity. Quick-hitting, sharp-angled lemony H avors G nish tangy, minerally and lasting, with zesty citric acidity creating length. This is lean and pointed at only 12.3% abv. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd . — M.S. abv: 12.3% Price: $ 21 88 Morgadio 2015 Legado del Conde Albariño Albariño ( Rías Baixas ). Citrus and apple aromas are fresh, reserved and on the light side. In the mouth, this pops with lemony acidity and related tang. Flavors of tart green apple and lime are racy almost to the point of being sour, while this ends with a tingle of sharp acidity and…

93 Alloro 2014 Estate Chardonnay ( Chehalem Mountains ). As Willamette Valley vintners continually improve and redeG ne Oregon Chardonnay, a distinctive proG le is emerging. This vivid and taut mineral-driven wine could be the poster child. The citrus, apples and pears bring a light touch of baking spices, extended length and sureG re ageability. Plus, it’s a G ne value for a wine of such quality. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 34 92 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2015 Bernau Block Chardonnay ( Willamette Valley ). For full review see page 97. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 45 91 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2015 Estate Chardonnay ( Willamette Valley ). For full review see page 101. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 30 89 Apolloni 2015 L Cuvée Chardonnay ( Willamette…

Recently, I met someone who lamented an experience she had at New York’s Death & Co. a couple of years back: “They have a lot gin cocktails on the menu, but I don’t really like gin,” she explained. “So I pointed to a drink that sounded good, and requested it with vodka instead. They said, ’Sorry, but we don’t carry vodka.’” Unfortunately, that antivodka snobbery has long been part of the bar scene. It doesn’t have enough flavor or character, some bartenders protest. The drinks made with it are too dull. Perhaps those bartenders aren’t drinking the right vodka. This month, we focus on the newest crop of vodkas, particularly those launched in the U.S. within the past 24 months. Although these new bottlings are certainly subtle, it would be…

Up until recently, if you wanted to have an Italian beer with your meal, the choices were quite limited. In fact, there were really only two widely available options: Peroni or Moretti. This was the world of Italian beers to most American consumers, with possibly other, more obscure oI erings available at the local distributor. But, in the words of Bob Dylan, “the times they are a-changin’.” The Italian craM beer scene has been enjoying a renaissance over the past few years. Though not new, the artisanal products that were previously only well known by Italians in their homeland, are finally making their way across the ocean to a new group of thirsty consumers: the American craft beer drinker. Sure, we are still enjoying our own craM - beer boom…