Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2017 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

This issue, we celebrate the innovation and excitement that vintners in the New World are bringing to the table. From Australia to South Africa to South America and beyond, these incredibly diverse and high-quality wines are changing what we drink every day, at prices that encourage experimentation. Check out pages 38, 44 and 50 for our deep dives into some of the New World’s most dynamic regions. Our commitment to bringing you discovery pours, in addition to reporting on the world’s most coveted and classic choices, drives our tasting program at Wine Enthusiast. Our team of 18 expert, global tasters reviews more than 22,000 wines a year—more than any other magazine—and we continue to expand to pursue the best recommendations the wine world has to off er. We invite you…

Having these wines creates a certain mystique that pulls in customers. When Chicago restaurateurs Billy Lawless and Ryan O’Donnell opened their Southern Italian-inspired restaurant, Coda di Volpe, Beverage Director Jon McDaniel knew what the restaurant needed to stand out: its own wine. Following months of research, McDaniel secured a crisp, floral wine with notes of stone fruit from Cantina del Taburno in Italy’s Campania region. It is also called Coda di Volpe, and it has been a hit. “It’s an avenue for us to connect and personalize our concept and talk about why we’re diI erent than other Italian restaurants in town,” says McDaniel. Such partnerships are becoming more common. Adam Petronzio, wine director for Oceana in New York City, worked with Brooklyn’s Red Hook Winery to develop Oceana Cuvée,…

India pale ale can be as restless as a caged bird, forever ready to fly in unexpected directions. Governed by brewers’ creativity and heavy (or not) hand with hops, as well as the hop varieties used, IPAs can trend as bitter as political discourse, or drift more tropical than a beach cocktail. But now, brewers are turning to other ingredient additions and brewing techniques to offer something new. Meet and drink the latest generation of IPA spinoffs. Six New Hop Varieties to Know ❶ Idaho 7 ❷ African Queen ❸ Loral ❹ Hallertau Blanc ❺ Azacca ❻ Ekuanot For more intell on hops and IPAs, visitwinemag.com/ipa India Pale Lager Brewers are fast realizing that cold-fermenting beer with lager yeast fashions a clean, brisk platform for hops alight with pine, citrus…

Celery is often an unglamorous workhorse in crudité platters, vegetable soups and green juices, but it can take on a starring role, if only given the chance. Classics like celery gratin and Waldorf salad are back in fashion, and dishes like the Celery Victor (a chilled marinatedcelery salad) at San Francisco’s Cockscomb have gained cult status. Some favorite celery snacks can be reinvented as terrific entrées. If you loved it with peanut butter as a kid, try stir-fried celery with Thai peanut sauce. Do you enjoy the celery sticks and blue cheese dip that come with BuI alo wings? A chopped celery salad topped with crumbled blue cheese and spicy grilled chicken breast oI ers similar taste and crunch. “We work with all different forms of celery,” says Kate Jacoby,…

96 Horsepower 2013 The Tribe Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This wine is aromatically brooding but precise, with notes of umami, black olive, smoked ham, crushed violets, funk and peat. The H avors are heM y and concentrated— with notes of fire pit and wet stone— while showing earth-shaking depth and intensity. The finish stretches out as long as you care to count. This is a complete knee buckler. abv: 13.6% Price: $120 95 Cayuse 2013 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas are perfumed and expressive, with notes of crushed H owers, brown stems, black olive, sea salt, smoked meat and funk. The H avors are dense and intense, but still with a silky feel. It’s a classic example of this producer, with a finish that just won’t…

CHARDONNAY 90 Kerloo 2015 Calling Club Exclusive Chardonnay ( Columbia Gorge ). Fermented and aged in neutral French oak with full malolactic fermentation, the aromas are light, with notes of green apple and mineral. The freshly squeezed lemon acids are tart and racy, capped oI by a lightly creamy G nish. Pair it with food to see it at its best. — S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $ 48 89 Balancing Act 2015 Chardonnay ( Washington). Baked apple and baking spice aromas lead to a lightly creamy palate capped oI by a tart, lemony G nish. It provides a lot of appeal. Best Buy. — S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 12 89 Disruption 2015 Chardonnay ( Washington ). Most of this wine comes from esteemed Evergreen Vineyard in the Ancient Lakes…

RIESLING 90 Cave Spring 2014 CSV Estate Bottled Riesling ( Beamsville Bench ). There is a refreshing minerality underscoring this tightly wound wine. Fruit flavors of grapefruit, lime and white melon carry a hint of spice. There’s penetrating acidity, only slightly muted by the 13 g/L of residual sugar. Cave Spring Cellars . — P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $ 26 88 Cave Spring 2014 Riesling ( Niagara Peninsula ). Slightly spritzy, this zesty eI ort puts a mineral base under flavors of fresh lime and mixed citrus. There is enough residual sugar—18 g/L—to oI set the bracing acids, without turning the wine overly sweet. Cave Spring Cellars . — P.G. abv: 11% Price: $ 15 87 Cave Spring 2014 Estate Bottled Riesling ( Beamsville Bench). This tastes quite dry, though…

CÔTE RÔTIE 94 E. Guigal 2011 Château d’Ampuis ( Côte Rôtie ). The essence of the appellation smokes out from the glass, oI ering hints of cracked pepper, bacon, clove and leather. It’s reasonably full-bodied for Côte Rôtie, with feral, smokedmeat H avors, ample spice and plenty of the concentrated plummy fruit. Tannins are silky, making this approachable now, but likely capable of aging well for at least 10–15 years. Vintus LLC . Editors’ Choice. — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 75 91 E. Guigal 2012 Brune et Blonde de Guigal ( Côte Rôtie ). The 2012 vintage was reasonably warm, and this wine is ripe and creamy in texture, with ground clove and cracked pepper notes accenting plummy fruit. Vanilla and bacon notes chime in on the slightly dusty…

Traditionally, Irish whiskey has been praised for its approachable nature: gentle, fresh flavors, easy to mix into cocktails, aI ordably priced. But that’s no longer a given. The question that popped up over and over during this month’s tastings: When did Irish whiskey become so complex, dark and intense? Perhaps it’s the influence of raucous American whiskeys and moody Scotches. The bottles of Irish now filling out shelves include special cask finishes (not just former Bourbon and Sherry casks, but also Malaga, Bordeaux, Madeira, even rum barrels) and longer aging times (16, 18, 21 years and up). Many of these are limited editions oI ered with loM y price tags. For example, look to Midleton’s Dair Ghaelach bottling ($270), a blend of 15- to 22-year-old whiskeys aged in barrels made…

Read Get to know winemakers and industry insiders from around the world in our exclusive online features. Watch From travel videos packed with savvy tips on where to sip and sup, to wine 101 specials, we map it out for you. Apply Learn how to bring dozens of our seasonal dishes and somm-approved pairings to your dinner table. Engage Our social network shares what’s hot, what’s happening in the wine world and more, daily. Learn We break down the ABCs of wine, including how to taste, store, serve and more. Listen The Wine Enthusiast Podcast features interviews with the best and brightest personalities in wine. Follow us @WineEnthusiast…

After the single-vineyard Pinot tastings, the youthful Cabernet and meticulously curated estates of Napa and Sonoma, there’s no shame in wanting nothing more than a jukebox, a shot and a beer. Amid all of wine country’s trappings and tourism, authentic, local bars persist. Here are our favorites—places where no one needs to know your name or cares what you drink. —Virginie Boone ANA’S CANTINA, ST. HELENA Among St. Helena’s antique shops and pricey dress boutiques sits Ana’s (shown here), a local’s favorite for decades. It’s an old-school cantina with big-screen TVs, a pool table, full bar and Olympia beer in cans. The décor includes beer memorabilia on the walls and dollar bills pinned to the ceiling. There’s karaoke Thursdays and maybe even Ana herself behind the bar. CASINO BAR &…

“You have to have a lot of craft to add the element of surprise. It’s like that with jazz, and I was moved by the similarity to making wine. ” —Ted Nash The New York City romance between Grammy-nominated saxophonist and composer Ted Nash (of the Jazz at Lincoln Center orchestra) and singer/sommelier Kristen Lee Sergeant (Gotham Bar and Grill) began with a mutual love of music and vino, and it culminated in a project all their own. But these two didn’t decide to make music together: They made wine. —Amy Zavatto What inspired you to go for a blend [Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc] instead of using one recognizable red grape? Kristen Lee Sargent: Sommelier projects can get really esoteric and skew toward the extreme, but not necessarily the…

There’s more to continental America’s southernmost destination than its famed, boozy main drag, Duval Crawl. In addition to fun in the sun, there’s an abundance of fresh seafood, a spunky arts scene and spectacular sipping far and beyond the isle’s Margaritaville reputation. shop Were he still alive, the rum-loving Ernest Hemingway might be a regular at the tasting bar of Paul Menta’s Key West First Legal Rum Distillery. Florida cane sugar provides the backbone for the 10 rums made in this former Coca-Cola bottling plant. (Can’t tote those bottles? The distillery will ship them.) Mark Gambuzza’s Uva Wine Shoppe (above) offers 200-plus biodynamic, small-production bottles for sale. There’s also a chill wine bar, where pleasurable pours complement cheese and charcuterie. Across the street, well-appointed gents will appreciate the fine linen…

RIESLING 88 Ste. Chapelle 2015 Special Harvest Riesling ( Snake River Valley ). For full review see page 104. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 10 86 Cinder 2015 Off-dry Riesling ( Snake River Valley ). Vibrant but slightly reduced aromas of canned pear, jasmine, flowers and peach are followed by oI -dry-leaning sweeter fruit flavors. It brings appeal but needs more acid to stand it up. — S.S. abv: 12.2% Price: $ 18 86 Sawtooth 2015 Estate Grown Riesling ( Snake River Valley ). Bright aromas of honeysuckle, honey and ripe peach lead to mediumsweet fruit flavors. The concentration isn’t all there but there’s still much to enjoy. — S.S. abv: 12.3% Price: $ 13 86 Snake River 2013 Arena Valley Vineyard Riesling ( Snake River Valley ). Aromas…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 89 Loma Larga 2016 Lomas del Valle Sauvignon Blanc ( Casablanca Valley ). Lime and greenapple aromas are tight and stony. Bright, juicy and chiseled on the palate, this tastes of wet stones, lime and bell pepper. Citrusy residual H avors along with a note of bitter citrus pith make for an honest G nish. Winery Direct . — M.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $ 18 89 San Pedro 2016 Castillo de Molina Reserva Sauvignon Blanc ( Elqui Valley ). Pungent, pure aromas of citrus and tarragon are appealing. This feels upright and tangy, with bright, driving acidity. Grapefruit, lime and jalapeño H avors G nish juicy, with leM over citrus notes and a dash of white pepper. Shaw-Ross International Importers . Best Buy. — M.S. abv: 13% Price:…

BOLGHERI SUPERIORE 93 Guado al Tasso 2013 Bolgheri Superiore . Made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a drop of Petit Verdot, this polished linear red has aromas of black-skinned fruit, bell pepper, coconut and toasted oak. The vibrant, elegantly structured palate oI ers black currant, chopped herb, clove and licorice alongside G negrained tannins. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 125 93 Poggio al Tesoro 2012 Dedicato a Walter ( Bolgheri Superiore). For full review see page 90. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 90 91 Ornellaia 2013 Bolgheri Superiore . A blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot, this opens with aromas of red currant, fragrant purple H ower and exotic spice. The currant aroma carries over…

SHADES OF BLEU Grey Goose celebrated the winter season with its Le Marché Bleu pop-up market. The vodka brand held a dazzling launch party in New York City, hosted by Julia Restoin Roitfeld and featuring musical performances by the Harlem Gospel Choir, singer St. Vincent and College, a French DJ. Chef Ludo Lefebvre provided snacks for the fabulous crowd. BRINGING A TASTE OF SPAIN TO THE BAY Wines of Spain gave San Franciscans an opportunity to taste through the country’s diverse offerings at Spain’s Great Match. Chefs from Spanish restaurants were also on hand to provide tapas. BORDEAUX, PLUS BITES Chefs of top New York City restaurants, including Charlie Bird and King, made bites to pair with their favorite wines from Bordeaux at Word of Mouth and Vins de Bordeaux’s…

PAIR IT “Everyone drinks this with a Guinness,” Mallol says. It’s not the dish for fancy pairings, even at a great cocktail bar. “Or an Irish Coffee would work.” See winemag.com for an Irish Coffee recipe. The award-winning Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog in New York City is best known for its cocktails. But its Full Irish Breakfast is so popular that the restaurant began serving it for lunch during the week, in addition to weekend brunches. Chef Joe Mallol adds some herbs and spices, but sticks to a classic formula. “If you go to Ireland, they don’t really do corned beef,” he says. “This is more traditional.” FULL IRISH BREAKFAST Courtesy Joe Mallol, corporate chef, Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog, New York City ✦ ON THE PLATE: EGGS, cooked…

When we talk about rye whiskey, we oft en nod toward the past: pre-Prohibition cocktails and speakeasy culture. But now the bold and spicy spirit is trending and coming back into its own. That includes a lineup of next-gen styles that are definitely not your grandpa’s rye. To be called rye whiskey, the spirit’s grain bill must be made at least 51 percent rye, but the final product can vary widely depending on how it’s aged. “Rye is expressive,” says Jessie Duré, bar manager of whiskey-focused Chumley’s in New York City. “You can get something super light and mintyfresh, or really full-bodied with cooking spices like cinnamon and clove, and both are enjoyable to sip on.” While we still have a soft spot for familiar rye whiskies (like Rittenhouse, Sazerac…

Rocks region pioneer Christophe Baron didn’t set out to discover a new winegrowing territory when he first moved there from his native France in 1993. In fact, he didn’t really look to live in the Walla Walla Valley, which straddles the Oregon-Washington border, at all. “Being crazy about Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Burgundy, my goal really was to work in the Willamette Valley,” he says. But the only job he could find there was working harvest. When a friend told him about a longer-term position opening up in Walla Walla, he did what any person might do in those pre-internet days. He looked at an atlas. “I looked at Walla Walla, and I looked at the Willamette Valley, and said, ‘Sure,’ ” he recalls. “I thought it was very…

GREAT SOUTHERN One of Australia’s legendary Cabernets comes from this portion of Western Australia, which includes the inland Frankland River region: Houghton’s Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon, named for the winemaker who created it. Other wines of note include offerings from Frankland Estate, Howard Park and Plantagenet. CLARE VALLEY The site of Taylor’s, sold in America as Wakefield Estate, was selected based on its suitability for Cabernet Sauvignon. An inland region, its cool nights preserve acidity, although the hot days sometimes mean a warm note creeps into the wines, and oft en there’s a touch of eucalyptus. Other wineries worth seeking out include Grosset, Jim Barry and Kilikanoon. BAROSSA VALLEY Even this hotbed of Shiraz produces Cabernet Sauvignon. Because of the region’s warmth, oft en these are wines built on ripeness…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine…

CHARDONNAY 89 Hound’s Tree 2015 Chardonnay ( North Fork of Long Island ). Fresh and fragrant, this luscious Chardonnay bursts with flavors of pink grapefruit, lemon and apple. It’s ripe and yielding in texture but pertly balanced in acidity, finishing on a lingering bite of astringency. Drink now through 2020. — A.I. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 24 89 One Woman 2015 Chardonnay ( North Fork of Long Island ). Fresh white grapefruit and peach flavors abound from nose to finish in this elegantly balanced Chardonnay. It’s juicy and quaffable with a rich, expansive mouthfeel, yet nuanced by subtle hints of mineral and toast. Enjoy now through 2020. — A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $ 28 88 Glenora 2015 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ( Finger Lakes ). Ripe red apple, lemon and caramelized…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 94 Brancott 2013 Chosen Rows Sauvignon Blanc ( Marlborough ). This special Sauvignon Blanc is only being released in top vintages. The G rst was the 2010; the 2013 is the second vintage. Fermented in oak, it oI ers up complex aromas of pencil shavings and grapefruit, followed by hints of toast, cedar, red currants and gooseberries. It’s a ripe, weighty style, but it carries those traits without a hitch, gliding seamlessly through a long, silky, mouthwatering G nish. Pernod Ricard . Editors’ Choice. — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 75 93 Giesen 2013 The Fuder Single Vineyard Selection Matthews Lane Sauvignon Blanc ( Marlborough ). For full review see page 88. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 55 93 Te Mata 2013 Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc ( Hawke’s Bay…

BLAUFRÄNKISCH 94 Heinrich 2013 Goldberg Reserve Blaufränkisch ( Burgenland ). This is still tightly closed: There are merely some notions of iron oxide on the nose, but otherwise this is brooding and mysterious. The palate, however, has something majestic and sumptuous about it—a warm heart of ripe and aromatic black and red cherry. This just needs to breathe and will unfurl like crimson velvet on your tongue. While this can be approached now as it is beginning to mellow, this will be even better in the years leading up to 2020. Very moreish. Weygandt-Metzler . — A.K. abv: 14% Price: $ 50 94 Jalits 2014 Szapary Reserve Blaufränkisch ( Eisenberg ). This is still very tightly coiled: the nose says little and the palate holds on tight to its beautifully…

Wild beers (those fermented with wild yeasts and bacteria) have gone mainstream. Well, maybe not totally mainstream, but they’re certainly enjoying a moment, with many beer drinkers turning to the style to experience exciting, eye-opening beers. American wild ales are particularly popular. They are a result of American brewers tak ingclassic European styles and techniques stateside, oft entimes creating their own specialized equipment (like coolships, a type of fermentation vessel) or adding fruits or spices. Many domestic breweries are looking for ways to meet this increased demand. The team at The Bruery, for example recently created a new brand line, called Bruery Terreux, with a dedicated space, equipment and staff to concentrate on farmhouse-style wild and sour ales. The result is more unique bottlings, like the playful Frucht line and…

In 2016, Donald Trump was elected President of the United States, the Chicago Cubs won the World Series, and the HoseMaster of Wine won a Louis Roederer International Wine Writers Award. Which was the unlikeliest? The answer is (D): all of the above. For the past six years, as part of my prison release program (I received a 10-year sentence for impersonating a sommelier, which is what I thought sommeliers do), I’ve been writing a satiric wine blog called HoseMaster of Wine. There’s a chance you’ve heard of me. I’m relatively famous in the wine business, sort of like how Pauly Shore is a celebrity. Proof there is no God. I began my blog aM er being stunned by the misinformation and lack of talent in most wine blogs. I…