It wasn’t many years ago that cooking with mushrooms meant buying white buttons or crimini, at the supermarket—the kind that Julia Child used to whip up duxelles, a classic French preparation.
In the ’90s, we met the button’s more exotic sibling, the portobello. And, in the last decade, we saw a deluge of specialty mushrooms like shiitakes, oysters, maitakes, enokis and pom poms, which in 2014-’15 represented 95 million pounds in sales.
More recently, with foraging’s popularity, restaurants began featuring morels, chanterelles and porcini found only in fields and forests.
With such “mushrooming” consumption, what wines should we drink with them?
Chefs and sommeliers say it depends on the mushroom’s taste and texture.
“I compare them with cheeses,” says Aimee Olexy, owner/sommelier of Talula’s Table in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania. “Some,…
