Innholdsfortegnelse for BOY 2016 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

A century ago, an immigrant railroad worker named Santo Cambianica realized that the growing population of Italians in Los Angeles thirsted for a taste of home. So in 1917, he founded San Antonio Winery, named for his patron saint, Anthony, and began to turn grapes from Southern California’s then-sprawling vineyards into wine. One hundred years later, sitting in the shadow of downtown LA’s skyscrapers on Lamar Street, San Antonio Winery—the nation’s first urban winery—shows no sign of stopping. Its portfolio includes close to 20 diverse brands, (case production for some in seven-figure volumes), vineyards in Napa Valley, Monterey and Paso Robles and a new 125,000-square-foot facility in Paso that’s capable of producing 300,000 cases of wine per year. That’s not to say the road getting here was easy: San Antonio…

Hit the gym. Move. Change jobs. Most New Year’s resolutions require serious commitment to change. This one’s easy: Drink a different beer. Resolve to follow these four paths to a better beer year. Once you feel like imbibing again, that is. 1 SITUATION YOU DIG ONLY DOMESTIC LAGERS. Solution:Try a new-school pilsner. Don’t believe the double-IPA headlines: America remains a lager-loving nation, thanks to the style’s refreshing signature crispness. The missing elements—aroma and flavor—are found in the latest lavishly hopped pilsners. They merge low alcohol levels and drinkability with floral, herbal aromas and palate-perking bitterness. Try:Urban Chestnut Stammtisch Named offers drinking clubs in German beer halls, St. Louis-made Stammtisch is as crisp as a Saltine, with a pleasing peppery bitterness. 2 SITUATION YOU DRINK ONLY GUINNESS. Solution:Try nitro stouts and…

2016 LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD A man to whom family means everything` Taste and smell are certainly critical faculties for many in today’s wine and spirits trade. For William J. Deutsch, chairman of Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, however, it’s sight and hearing that take center stage.` One of the earliest memories that Deutsch recalls about his father, who emigrated from Hungary to the Astoria neighborhood in Queens, New York, is this advice: “Steal with your eyes, steal with your ears, but don’t ever go beyond those two methods of stealing.” From his mother, Deutsch was instilled with strong family values and an insistence on sincerity, honesty and integrity. Deutsch kept his father’s advice and his mother’s values top of mind during his seven-plus decades in the wine and spirits business.…

2016 WINERY EXECUTIVE OF THE YEAR A food-industry exec leads a huge turnaround at Treasury Wine Estates Everyone knows food and wine naturally go together. So in 2014, it shouldn’t have been a surprise when Australia’s Treasury Wine Estates named Michael Clarke its managing director and chief executive officer. After all, Clarke held senior roles at food giants like Kraft Foods and Coca-Cola in a career that’s spanned 20-plus years and four continents. But in an earnings call after the announcement, stock analysts questioned his credentials. Clarke, 51, had no experience in the wine trade. At the time, Treasury Wine Estates was trying to recover from a series of financial woes that had made it a takeover target for several private equity players. “I stepped into a business that was…

2016 RETAILER OF THE YEAR A chain emulating fi ne wine shops It was a tall order when Raley’s Family of Fine Stores decided three years ago to revamp its wine and spirits program. At the time, the family-owned company operated 115 grocery stores spread throughout Northern California and Northern Nevada, including the Raley’s, Nob Hill and Bel-Air brands. Founded in 1935, Raley’s was long considered an upscale chain, but it wasn’t necessarily seen as a wine-shopping destination to customers. That’s especially troublesome in California, where alcoholic beverages are available in virtually all food and convenience stores. But the company, headed by Michael Teel, chief executive offi-cer and grandson of founder Tom Raley, decided to make a seismic change. The first step was to hire a young beverage director named…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine…

CHARDONNAY 88 Whitecliff Vineyard 2014 Reserve Chardonnay (Hudson River Region). Sultry vanilla, smoke and bergamot notes thread languorously on the nose of this intensely perfumed Chardonnay. The palate is more subdued, showing zesty red apple and lemon anchored by a crisp acidic backbone. It’s a touch woody now but could balance out with a few more years of bottle aging. — A.I. abv: 12% Price: $ 18 87 Fjord 2014 Chardonnay (Hudson River Region). Notes of pressed apple and orange rind are brightened by splashes of lemon and spice in this robustly full-bodied wine. Savory apple and pear flavors lend a rustic tone but its mouth-clinging texture is lavish and lingering. It’s a bold wine but balances neatly without any alcoholic heat. — A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 17 87…

TANNAT 89 Bouza 2014 Reserva Tannat (Uruguay). Grapy berry and plum aromas set up a fresh tannic wiry palate. Popping plum and berry flavors are lively and toasty, while this Tannat, with its black pepper notes, tastes good and spicy on the finish. Drink through 2020. Elixir Wine Group . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 20 89 Gimenez Mendez 2015 Las Brujas Tannat (Canelones). Plum, blueberry, tea and earth notes make for an interesting set of aromas. This is a very good example of Uruguayan Tannat, even if the tannins are unresolved and clampy. Toasty top flavors shadow blueberry fruit, while this is dark and slightly bitter on the finish. Drink this tasty but choppy wine through 2020. Vinaio Imports . — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 22 88…

BIERZO 87 Luna Beberide 2015 Mencía (Bierzo). This Mencía is grapy smelling, with rubbery, leathery accents. In the mouth, this feels grabby but juicy. Berry and bright plum flavors are also rubbery, while this is choppy on the finish, with peppery, spicy, toasty notes. Grapes of Spain . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 17 86 Estefania 2015 Tilenus Vendimia Mencía (Bierzo). Wild berry aromas come with notes of Band-Aid and latex. This feels tight and pinched, with hard tannins. A flavor profile built on limited berry and peppery bitterness ends with some clipped tannins. Classic Wines, Inc . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 18 86 Godelia 2015 Viernes Mencía (Bierzo). Jumpy berry aromas are simple and grapy. A plump but jagged and tannic palate tastes foxy and a…

MUSCADET SÈVRE ET MAINE 92 Domaine des Cognettes 2012 Clisson (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson). The village of Clisson is the home of the Perraud family and also its own mini-appellation. This rich wine is full of fruit, developing a nut and pepper character that adds complexity. It is a well-balanced wine, still with its acidity and a crisp lemon aftertaste. Drink now. Native Selections . Editors’ Choice . — R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 21 92 Jérémie Huchet 2015 Clos les Montys 1914 Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). Old vines, some dating from 1914, form the basis of this impressive wine. They give it concentration while the stone and sand soil brings even more richness. With its crisp acidity, lemon and grapefruit fruit, and creamy texture, the wine…

ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 91 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2014 Rossofonte (Rosso di Montalcino). This dazzling red boasts aromas of wild berry, chopped herb, violet and a whiff of truffle. The linear balanced palate also boasts surprising structure for the vintage, delivering juicy wild cherry, licorice and clove alongside silky elegant tannins and bright acidity. Incredibly enjoyable, one bottle may not be enough. Indigenous Selections . Editors’ Choice . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ NA 90 Conti Costanti 2014 Rosso di Montalcino . Red berry, Mediterranean herb and a balsamic note of eucalyptus lead the nose on this polished red. The poised, balanced palate offers wild cherry, cranberry and a touch of exotic spice while smooth tannins and bright acidity provide a glossy framework. Empson USA Ltd . — K.O. abv:…

WHITE WINES 89 Budureasca 2015 Origini Reserve Sauvignon (Dealu Mare). Floral notes of elderflower, dried daisy and lemon blossom precede flavors of passion fruit and gooseberry in this medium-bodied wine. The finish is long with pleasant crisp acidity. Albus Imports LLC . — J.J. abv: 13% Price: $ 18 89 Budureasca 2015 Tamâioasa Româneascu (Dealu Mare). Acacia flower, fragrant white flowers and white peach juice are present in the delicate bouquet of this wine made from the lesser known Tamaioasa Romaneasca grape. There is a pleasant fruit finish with flavors of apple, pear, peach and apricot. Albus Imports LLC . Best Buy . — J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 10 88 Budureasca 2015 Vine in Flames Pinot Gris (Dealu Mare). Aromas of white flowers, jasmine, and lemon pith give way…

click.discover.connect WINEMAG.COM travel guides Map out trips to must-see locations, including Greece and its islands, our newest destination. wine & ratings > Read about the hottest regions and varieties, such as our latest feature on the comeback of Australian Shiraz. < vineyards & visits Get to know top producers and the best places to taste around the globe. < cool cocktails Find easy recipes, like this Colonial-era cider-based cocktail that will quench thirst. unique stories > What’s it like to be a new mom and a somm? How hard is it to become a Master of Wine? Read wine insiders’ tales. profiles > Read exclusive interviews with winemakers and mixologists about what’s behind the bottle. Follow us @WineEnthusiast…

Fresh grapefruit delivers a burst of sunshine during the dead of winter. A bright, elegant addition to sweet and savory dishes year-round, it’s believed to be a hybrid of orange and pomelo. Its name comes from the fruit’s tendency to grow in tight clusters on the tree. Don’t associate the fruit with the muddy, bitter taste of packaged grapefruit juice. If you cut away its bitter white pith, fresh grapefruit strikes the perfect balance between tangy lemon and honeyed orange. It’s a natural in cocktails (especially with gin, Tequila or Campari), but always use freshsqueezed juice. Some of its culinary affinities include fish and shellfish, goat cheese, Brussels sprouts, almond, avocado, rosemary and honey. Try a grapefruit beurre blanc with fish, or a salsa of minced grapefruit, red onion, avocado,…

Indiana’s barely an offersthought in most overviews of the U.S. wine industry. But that hasn’t hindered Bill Oliver’s optimism or the growth of his Oliver Winery, just north of Bloomington. It’s Indiana’s oldest and largest winery, founded by his father in 1972. Today, it produces more than 360,000 cases annually. The winery promises “soft ,…refreshing, easy-drinking wines with sunripened, sweet flavor.” “I want to make wines that appeal to our customers,” says Oliver. Even on the phone, he’s an engaging, enthusiastic personality with an obvious gift for marketing. “We are finding niches, and when we find them, we do it well.” Those niches are generally filled with sweet wines that aren’t always made from grapes. Apple, berry and cherry wines also sell well and are commonplace among the state’s wineries.…

On January 25, Scotland celebrates Burns Night, a holiday of sorts in honor of the iconic Scottish poet Robert Burns. A typical Burns Night supper consists of haggis, whisky, witty toasts and poetry recitations. It often culminates with a unique dessert: Tipsy Laird, a trifle made with whisky (or the whisky-based liqueur Drambuie), custard and raspberries. Adjust quantities of the individual components based on your trifle dish and personal tastes, but making the custard from scratch is key, and it’s easier than you may think. —Nils Bernstein TIPSY LAIRD ¼ cup raspberry jelly or seedless jam 4 cups fresh or frozen raspberries, plus more forgarnish 3 cups half-and-half 6 tablespoons sugar 1 pinch kosher salt 6 large egg yolks 3 tablespoons cornstarch ½ cup Drambuie 1 (7-ounce) package ladyfingers (may…

The histories of Western civilization and winemaking are as intertwined as grapevines on a trellis wire. There are competing claims as to where wine was first made, but evidence points to the Middle East, eastern Asia and the Mediterranean Sea as the birthplace of grapes, winemaking and the word, wine, itself. From grand temples and stone troughs, to shards of pottery and fossilized grape seeds, abundant clues highlight the importance of wine both at the table and in religion. Wine made many appearances in the prose and poetry of the ancient world, from the Phoenicians and Minoans through the Romans and Greeks, and in the religious texts of Jews and Christians alike. While it’s fascinating to reflect on winemaking and its spread along ancient trade routes, remember that these countries…

BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUS IAST Seventeen years ago, the editors of Wine Enthusiast conceived an annual award program to honor individuals and companies that have contributed to the success of the wine industry. Over the years, the size and scope of our Wine Star Awards have expanded to encompass spirits and beer, and to showcase hands-on consumer gatekeepers such as mixologists and wine directors. We recognize how multifaceted and rich the wine culture and its peripheral aspects have become, and continually embrace and acknowledge the trailblazers who are impacting what you put in your glass every day. What does it take to be a Wine Star winner? Among other attributes, energy, courage, groundbreaking vision and business acumen. We invite you to turn the page and learn about these…

2016 AMERICAN WINE LEGEND The man who popularized California’s Central Coast Find good soil. Plant the right seed. Nurture its growth. Reap the bounty. Repeat. That’s the practice that Jerry Lohr learned from his parents while being raised on a farm in South Dakota, and that’s exactly what the Stanford graduate, Air Force captain and San Jose real estate developer did when he started his California winery in the early 1970s. Today, after 45 years of smart and steady growth, J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines farms 4,000-plus acres in Monterey and Paso Robles. It produces more than 1.6 million cases of wine across 35 different bottlings, from exclusive single-vineyard expressions and meticulously crafted Bordeaux blends to the value-driven Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon and Riverstone Chardonnay. “It’s always been very planned,…

2016 SOMMELIER/WINE DIRECTOR OF THE YEAR Creating hospitality’s “greatest wine program” The next time you sit down to a meal at one of the 92 restaurants and wine bars operated by Las Vegas-based MGM Resorts International, keep in mind that the person who ordered the wine you’re drinking might have cooked your food, had things gone according to his original plan. As a student in the late 1990s at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Jason L. Smith had dreams of being a chef. However, a mandatory course in wine education changed his path from a life of hot kitchens, cuts and burns to one based on vineyards, decanters and teaching budding sommeliers about wine. “That class blew my mind,” says Smith, now 39. “Learning to…

PINOT NOIR 95 Dehlinger 2013 Champ de Mars Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). What a powerfully lovely, lilting and blockbuster of a wine this is. Seamless in baked rhubarb and a velvety texture it never stops impressing, allowing for nuanced explosions of black cherry and Asian spice to coat the palate and become more complex the longer each sip lingers. Deliciously drinkable now, the wine will take on additional wow factor over time. Editors’ Choice . — V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 65 95 Domaine Eden 2013 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). While this wine’s Mount Eden sister bottling may better stand the test of time, the Domaine Eden is what most people will most like to drink right now, and it’s cheaper too. Aromas of dried violets, uncrushed boysenberries…

CHARDONNAY 90 Cono Sur 2015 20 Barrels Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). For full review see page 163. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 35 88 Errazuriz 2015 Chardonnay (Aconcagua Costa). Moderately ripe white-fruit aromas of peach and melon come with a hint of buttery oak. This feels lean and citric, with more acid than body. A shot of citric flavor gives way to yeasty dryness, while the finish is juicy but bitter around the edges. Vintus LLC . — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $ 25 88 Viña Aquitania 2014 Sol de Sol Chardonnay (Malleco). Waxy slightly bitter aromas of peach pit give way to a palate with grip. This tastes salty and like white melon, while on the finish what fruit there is fades out quickly. Hailing from Chile’s deep south, this is…

PINOTAGE 93 Kanonkop 2013 Estate Wine Black Label Pinotage (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). What a bold and powerful selection this is. It opens with intense aromas of blackberry, black plum and boysenberry that are hit with spicy notes of black pepper, cured meat, leather and Thin Mint. The plush and concentrated palate is like crushed velvet in texture, with gripping yet balanced tannins to support the rich, dense black-fruit flavors. The finish transitions from black cherry and boysenberry fruit to menthol, followed by lingering cocoa nib and charred oak tones. Drink 2019–2024. Cape Classics . Cellar Selection . — L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 275 92 Simonsig 2013 Redhill Pinotage (Stellenbosch). For full review see page 158. Editors’ Choice . abv: 14.4% Price: $ 38 90 Simonsig 2012 Redhill Pinotage (Stellenbosch). This is…

GRAND CRU CHABLIS 94 Jean-Marc Brocard 2014 Bougros Grand Cru (Chablis). Bougros is one of the richest, opulent of the Grand Cru Chablis. In this fruitdriven year, the wine is wonderfully spicy, rich and full of fine fruit. Yellow fruits dominate the balancing citrus and wood flavors. It is so forward that it could be drunk now, but this fine wine will be much better from 2019 Verity Wine Partners . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 75 94 Jean-Marc Brocard 2014 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). This vineyard is regarded as the finest of the Grand Crus, certainly for its more serious character. This 2014 has great complexity, toast and spice mingling with the mineral and whitefruit flavors. It is obviously set for long-term aging with its wood still…

BOURGUEIL 92 Domaine les Pins 2014 Cuvée Clos Les Pins (Bourgueil). This is the top wine from Pitault-Landry at Domaine les Pins. It is concentrated, ripe and firmly structured. Wood aging has smoothed the texture and brought out the red fruits. It still could age further with its generous fruitiness. Drink from late 2017. T. Elenteny Imports . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 30 91 Domaine les Pins 2015 Cuvée Les Rochettes (Bourgueil). This is structured young Bourgueil, with its stalky dry fruits and spicy character. The fruit is ripe with good potential for aging as the cedar character subsides and the generous fruit takes over. Drink from 2018. T. Elenteny Imports . Editors’ Choice . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 26 88 Domaine les…

WHITE WINES 90 Giocato 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Primorska). Aromas of freshly mowed grass, lemon pith, and lemon grass open for mineral-driven flavors of Bartlett pear, lemon juice and green apple in the midpalate. August Wine Group . Best Buy . — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 12 88 Giocato 2015 Pinot Grigio (Primorska). Under lying notes of vanilla soften the aromas of pineapple, grapefruit and lemon zest. Medium bodied with crisp acidity in the mouth, there are flavors of apple and lemon curd in the long finish. August Wine Group . Best Buy . — J.J. abv: 12% Price: $ 12…

WHITE WINES 88 Vini 2015 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Grigio (Thracian Valley). Pale straw in the glass, this wine has aromas of lemon grass and grapefruit pith that pave the way for delightful flavors of Honey Crisp apples and red grapefruit juice. Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best Buy . — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 9 87 Vini 2015 Veni Vidi Vici Sauvignon Blanc (Thracian Valley). Crisp yet slightly tart in the mouth, this wine exhibits pleasant flavors of Granny Smith apple, lemon custard, and fresh white peach. Bulgarian Master Vintners . Best Buy . — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 9 ROSÉ 85 Vini 2015 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Noir and Syrah Rosé (Thracian Valley). This Bulgarian rosé is made from Pinot Noir and Syrah and has enticing aromas of…

RED WINES 92 Yaffo 2011 Heritage Cabernet Sauvignon- Cabernet Franc (Ella Valley). Dark ruby in color, this wine has a nose of black cherry with a hint of bell pepper. It offers a pleasing balance of fruit and savory flavors, especially blackberry, roasted tomato, smoke and espresso. Grippy tannins coat the palate, releasing their grasp as notes of cherry jam and smoke permeate the finish. Kosher. Solstars Inc . Editors’ Choice . — M.D. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 45 91 Clos de Gat 2010 Ayalon Valley (Judean Hills). A rich nose of blackberry and violet paves the way for opulent flavors of raspberry, chocolate, anise and eucalyptus. This wine is softon entry, followed by firm tannins that recede as a touch of cranberry punctuates the finish. Solstars Inc . —…

If the tasting notes below inspire an impulsive trip to the nearest bakery, that’s perfectly understandable. Calvados— Normandy’s signature apple brandy—is remarkable for its confectionary flavors: tarte tatin, gingerbread, apple strudel. Marked by rich baked-apple flavor, vanilla and subtle spice, Calvados is an expression of the French countryside. Hundreds of apple varieties grow there, dotting the landscape with orchards where the branches hang heavy with fruit—at some distilleries in more pastoral settings, cows wait patiently beneath the trees for overripe apples to fall. Several varieties of these apples (and sometimes pears) go into each bottle. Compared to France’s grape-based brandies , Cognac and Armagnac, Calvados is notably fruit-forward, showing ripe apple, pear and citrus notes where grape brandies show more dried-fruit notes, like dates or figs. There’s often an intriguing…

There are very few beer buffs who don’t enjoy a good stout, especially once the cool winter months arrive. There’s little to compare with the satisfaction that a good, strong stout offers on a chilly day, except maybe a mug of cocoa—but why have cocoa when you can go with beer? The intense flavors and occasionally high alcohol levels found in stouts provide a fantastic warming sensation, soothing the soul and heating the body from the inside. Not to mention they’re delicious. There are so many different styles of stouts available that there is almost certainly a bottling for any palate. Though they’re all flavorful, each will vary in intensity, weight, alcohol and overall drinkability. Many consider Russian imperial stouts to be king, with their high alcohol content (usually between…

A TASTE OF FRANCE Members of the trade and press gathered in New York for a tasting of and class in wines from the Saint-Chinian AOC in Languedoc-Roussillon. Wine Enthusiast Senior Editor and Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo presided over the judging and led the master class for the event, which also included a briefing on tourism opportunities, like the 350th anniversary of the Canal du Midi. WOMAN POWER The fifth annual Women in Wine Leadership Symposium brought together women in various positions in the wine industry. Panels, seminars and tastings sought to educate and empower the dynamic group. PERFECT MATCH More than 300 wines from Spain were poured during the 23rd annual Spain’s Great Match event. In addition to a walk-around tasting, members of the trade and press participated in…

We’ve found the perfect use for any bubbly left over from holiday revelry: a nontraditional riff on the rum and Coke. This drink hails from BlackTail, a Cubaninspired spot in New York City’s financial district from the team behind the award-winning Dead Rabbit. “We’re celebrating American bar culture in Havana from the 1920s through the 1950s,” says Jack McGarry, the bar’s managing partner. His team pored over classic cocktail books from the era to see what Americans were drinking, which included plenty of rum, as you might imagine. The historical recipes were then updated to suit today’s tastes. In this drink, cola is amplified by Fernet, an extra-bitter Italian amaro, plus plenty of Champagne for celebratory fizz. RUM AND COKE Courtesy Jillian Vose and Jesse Vida, BlackTail, New York City.…

2016 PERSON OF THE YEAR The giving nature of a world-class CEO It isn’t always easy growing up in the shadow of a parent who has built a successful business. Whether it’s a question of the parent knowing how (or not) to let go, sibling rivalries or financial issues, it’s never simple knowing when a son or daughter is ready to take over the reins of a modern, complex enterprise. But if there’s one individual who has succeeded within a multigenerational family business, and succeeded to an exceptional degree within a highly competitive sector, it’s Wayne E. Chaplin, chief executive officer of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits, North America’s largest wine and spirits distributor. He leads Southern Glazer’s, with operations in 44 states, the District of Columbia, Canada and the…

2016 WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR A winemaker who started a revolution It’s not easy to challenge conventional wisdom or rejuvenate the reputation of a centuries-old winemaking region. But by employing the vision to craft exemplary wines and elevate Swartland, her adopted home region in South Africa, that’s exactly what Andrea Mullineux did. Growing up in California, Mullineux wanted to be a winemaker. After she studied at University of California, Davis, and worked various winery jobs in Napa Valley, she headed to South Africa on her first overseas internship to learn more about Chenin Blanc. A stint in Châteauneuf-du-Pape followed. Little did Mullineux know how those travels would shape the rest of her life. While she worked in France, she fell in love with both the traditional Rhône varieties she would…

2016 SPIRIT BRAND OF THE YEAR An enduring icon of American spirits Those who know Bourbon know Jimmy Russell. Affectionately known in the spirits industry as “The Buddha of Bourbon,” Jimmy has devoted more than six decades to Kentucky’s Wild Turkey, where he continues to serve as master distiller. Thanks to him and his son, Eddie Russell—the only active father-son master distilling team—Wild Turkey continues to thrive in the increasingly crowded American whiskey marketplace. Wild Turkey’s roots go back to 1855, although back then it was a grocery business in Brooklyn, New York, specializing in teas, coffee and spices. Following Prohibition, Austin, Nichols & Company shed the grocery business and became the Austin Nichols Distilling Company. It launched the Wild Turkey brand in 1940. In 1954, Jimmy Russell, then just…

Given the sheer size of California’s Central Coast appellation—a whopping 6.8 million acres, of which about 100,000 are planted to vineyards—it shouldn’t surprise that there’s a wide variety of wine grapes to be found. But thanks to the Golden State’s tumultuous tectonics and the Central Coast’s location between the rather chilly Pacific Ocean and extremely hot San Joaquin Valley, the region is rife with microclimates of every imaginable combination, from cool to hot, sunny to shady, north- to south-facing, volcanic soils to sedimentary. So not only can multiple varieties survive, they can thrive. Not only can multiple varieties survive, they can thrive. Today, an increasingly mature, experienced and yet continually creative stock of winemakers is producing an array of wines that deserve global attention. There’s some price creep underway, but…

CHARDONNAY 92 Ashan 2014 Kestrel Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). Reserved aromas of pencil lead, butterscotch and spice are followed by a fullbodied, creamy feeling palate, with a thread of lemony acidity that runs throughout. It’s a compelling example of the variety, with a finish that won’t quit. — S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $ 40 91 Ashan 2014 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This wine was barrel fermented and aged in 100% new French oak. Aromas of sweet spices, toast and stone fruit are followed by a full-bodied palate. It shows a lovely sense of texture. — S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 40 91 Gorman 2015 Old Scratch Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). The aromas are redolent with notes of candy corn, peach and spice. The palate is full bodied and rich,…

MALBEC 93 François Lurton 2013 Chacayes Malbec (Valle de Uco). Ripe, dark, baked aromas of pastry, turned-up earth, campfire and wild-berry fruits set up a seriously deep and tannic palate that’s stacked with black-fruit power, toasty oak and intensity. This tastes blackened, toasty and chocolaty on top of core blackberry and cassis flavors, while an oaky finish with peppery spice is just right for this type of burly wine. Drink through 2022. Atlas Imports . Editors’ Choice . — M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $ 80 93 Rutini 2013 Apartado Gran Malbec (Argentina). For full review see page 156. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 100 92 Bodegas Fabre 2013 Phebus Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). With an opaque purple color and boysenberry aromas that include notes of raisin and prune,…

RÍAS BAIXAS 89 Vieira de Plata 2015 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Floral, tropical-fruit aromas suggest orange and mango. This is juicy and under control on the palate, with dry yeasty white-fruit and citrus flavors. On the finish, this is showing ample freshness. Drink now. Vinamericas Selections . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 18 88 La Val 2015 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Peach and stony aromatic notes are good but common. This has a fresh simple plump feel and nice but basic melon and lime flavors. A clean finish with firm acidity keeps this chugging along until the final whistle. Polaner Selections. — M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 17 88 Nora 2015 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Peach, melon and citrus aromas are good but standard. This is edgy and sharp due to lean…

ECHÉZEAUX 95 Domaines Devillard 2014 Domaine des Perdrix (Echézeaux). Produced from two parcels totaling 2.8 acres, this is a properly powerful wine. It has a concentrated texture and firm tannins. They are balanced with the black fruits and strongly mineral texture of this impressive wine. Like any wine of this quality, this needs to age for a considerable period. Drink from 2024. AP Wine Imports . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 240 95 Roche de Bellene 2014 Echézeaux . Produced from less than half an acre of the Grand Cru vineyard, the wine has power and dark concentration. It is a rich wine with black fruit and solid tannins that promise long-term aging. The wood aging has given the wine an even richer character, bringing out…

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 94 Allegrini 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico . For full review see page 154. abv: 16% Price: $ 85 94 Venturini Massimino 2005 Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Underbrush, dried plum, resin, leather and a whiff of baking spice aromas slowly emerge in the glass. The big chewy palate shows juicy blackberry, ripe black cherry, tobacco and clove set against a backbone of firm velvety tannins. Despite its heft, it also boasts surprising finesse. Hold for even more complexity. Drink 2017–2025. Panebianco . — K.O. abv: 16% Price: $ 135 93 Cesari 2009 Il Bosco (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of underbrush, baked plum, pipe tobacco and dark cooking spice emerge on this concentrated red. The dense and structured palate displays dried black cherry, ripe blackberry,…

RED WINES 88 Lion-Gri 2015 Golden Land Dry Cabernet Sauvignon (Moldova). A whiff of cotton candy leads the nose to aromas of black raspberry, black currant and tobacco leaf. In the mouth, there are flavors of blackberry, black plum and smoked sausage before the persistent finish. Ambrosi Logistics LLC . Best Buy . — J.J. abv: 12% Price: $ 9 87 Château Vartely 2012 D’Or Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (Codru Region). This Moldovan blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon is aged for 12 months in French barrels and has aromas of mint, smoke, black plum and cassis in the bouquet. In the mouth, there are flavors of black cherry preserves and black currant before the bright fruit finish. Sarego Imports LLC . — J.J. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 16 87…

RKATSITELI 90 Kakhetia Traditional Winemaking 2013 Quevri Wine Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). Medium gold in the glass, this native Georgian wine made in traditional clay jars has a nose of toffee and peach with a pleasing touch of oxidation. It is harmonious on the palate, offering a sophisticated mélange of toasted apple, vanilla, lemon, toffee and spice flavors. Softtannins make way for a bright finish with a lingering taste of caramel. A & P Wine Wholesalers . Editors’ Choice . — M.D. abv: 12% Price: $ 19 87 Tbilvino 2014 Georgian Valleys Alazani Valley Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). Deep straw in color, this semi-sweet wine made from an indigenous Georgian grape has an aroma characterized by softhints of apple. It is harmonious in the mouth, with flavors of ripe apple, white peach and apricot…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 93 Clos Henri 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). This property excels in some vintages,and the 2015 is a huge success. It’s certainly complex, effortlessly combining hints of pungency with soothing notes of grapefruit. In the mouth, it’s fairly full and creamy in texture, then punctuates that richness with a long, vibrant finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 25 92 Marisco Vineyards 2015 The King’s Favour Waihopai Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). A strong effort, this medium-bodied wine combines hints of nettle leaf with bold fruit flavors of nectarine, pineapple and grapefruit. There’s creamy texture and ample concentration on the midpalate, followed by a long, silky finish. Marisco Vineyards USA . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 18 91 Ant…

MYERS-BRIGGS IN A GLASS My favorite icebreaker? Reading your martini. Tell me what’s in your glass, and I’ll tell you about yourself. To be completely fair, it’s a bit of a pop psychology party trick, like the time I took up tarot cards during high school. But the truth is, it can be a revealing exercise. To test my assumptions, I called on two experts: James Menite, who mans the bar at the swank Palm Court bar inside The Plaza hotel in New York City— where the martini is the top-seller—and a licensed psychoanalyst who loves a good martini but asked to have his name withheld. So…how do you take your martini, and what does it say about you? A vodka martini can be crisp and refreshing—points for individualism if…