Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2016 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

There’s no denying that while rosé is a wine that’s excellent for nearly every meal and a great choice for every season, its true home is summertime. A top wine category in France and a fastgrowing contender in America, rosé is the hot weather go-to for wine and food lovers the world over. The variety and breadth of rosé offerings on the market today means wine drinkers of every palate can find something to love at a price they like. And from magenta to fuchsia to salmon pink, these different styles offer an exciting explosion of color as diverse as the fireworks on the Fourth of July. From Austria to Provence and beyond, our team of global editors discover the best bottles for your summer wine exploration. We salute this…

THE BASICS Although it’s oft en referred to as a rice wine, saké is actually brewed, and its production process is more similar to beer than wine. Fundamentally, saké consists of four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji (a mold that produces enzymes to trigger fermentation). To identify styles, it’s helpful to know some terms: JUNMAI: Pure rice saké made with just rice, water, yeast and koji. Saké that’s not labeled junmai has a small amount of distilled alcohol added to the mash during fermentation. SEIMAIBUAI: Saké is classified by its rice milling rate, or seimaibuai, the percentage of the rice grain remaining aft er milling and polishing. Typically, the more the rice is milled, the more fruity and floral it becomes. The less the rice is milled, the more…

Once considered an obscure tropical drink, the Jungle Bird has become one of the most popular on the tiki bar circuit. The original, made with dark rum, pineapple and Campari, was invented in 1978 at the Kuala Lumpur Hilton. Tiki bars are all about dramatic, over-the-top drinks and presentation. At Chicago’s Lost Lake, perhaps today’s most-lauded tiki bar, the Jungle Bird adds a few more feathers to its exotic plumage. Tequila (with mezcal in a supporting role) replaces rum, ruby Port adds depth and glow, and passion fruit syrup ups the tropical fruit factor. Although bartender Paul McGee usually presents his Surfing Bird in a huge bowl to serve six thirsty revelers, this drink is pared down to a single serving. RUBY MAE’S SECOND SURFIN’ BIRD Courtesy Paul McGee, Lost…

Wine snobs may look down upon Pinot Grigio, but I’m proud to say that I like it—as long as it’s the good stuff. There are extremely good, even excellent Pinot Grigios out there, although finding them can be a challenge. First launched in the U.S. during the late 1970s, Pinot Grigio rose to become one of the most imported wines from Italy by the mid-1990s. These savory, refreshing offerings were polar opposites to the oaked-up, buttery and oft en palate-fatiguing Chardonnays that dominated the American market. According to Anthony Terlato, chairman of Terlato Wine Group, Pinot Grigio offered both quality and clarity when he launched Santa Margherita in 1979, which put the variety on the radar of American wine drinkers. “Italian wines that were popular in the mid-1970s had no…

Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials…

ROERO 91 Negro Angelo e Figli 2014 Perdaudin Arneis ( Roero ). This fragrant, elegant white opens with scents of orange blossom and white wild flower. The savory palate has a lovely depth of flavors, including yellow peach, Bosc pear, juicy lime and mineral alongside fresh acidity. A hazelnut note backs up the finish. It’s an outstanding effort, especially given the difficult vintage. The Piedmont Guy . — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 30 89 Cascina Val del Prete 2015 Arneis ( Roero ). Lovely floral scents of black locust flower, orange blossom and a whiff of aromatic herb float out of the glass. The round but elegantly structured palate offers white peach, white currant, sage and mineral. Soft acidity lift s the creamy flavors. Vinity Wine Company . —…

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE 92 Umani Ronchi 2013 Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne ( Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Structured and elegant, this opens with scents that recall beeswax, honey and almond. The vibrant, balanced palate offers white peach, fresh orchard fruit and a saline note alongside bright acidity. Drink now or hold for even more complexity. Drink through 2023. Bedford International . Cellar Selection. — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 35 91 Garofoli 2013 Podium ( Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore ). Alluring aromas of acacia flower, beeswax, citrus and a whiff of honey float out of the glass. The elegant, linear palate offers green pear, grapefruit, lemon zest, almond and mineral framed in racy acidity. Give this time to fully develop.…

MALBEC 94 Achaval-Ferrer 2013 Finca Altamira Malbec ( Mendoza). For full review see page 85. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $ 140 93 Achaval-Ferrer 2013 Finca Mirador Malbec ( Mendoza). For full review see page 86. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 140 93 Alta Vista 2011 Alto ( Mendoza). This ultraripe Malbec-led blend suggests aged P. X. Sherry via raisin and citrus peel aromas. A jammy palate manages to exhibit balance, despite heavy ripeness, while flavors of blackberry, cassis and prune are dark and dense. A savory, warm, saturated finish continues the theme of maximum ripeness. Drink through 2020. Kobrand . — M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $ 85 93 Benegas 2011 Benegas Lynch La Encerrada Estate Vineyard Malbec ( Mendoza). Smoky and intense from the get-go, this saturated, blackas-night…

CHARDONNAY 90 Macari 2013 Reserve Chardonnay ( North Fork of Long Island ). Fresh apple, lemon and crushed mineral tones are demure on the nose but gain power and concentration on the palate of this bold, richly textured Chardonnay. Denser and more muscular in mouthfeel than its regular-label bottling, it’s accented by just a whiff of spice and vanilla cream. Drink now through 2023. — A.I. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 27 89 Anthony Nappa 2014 Sciardonné Chardonnay ( North Fork of Long Island ). Streaks of honey and apple-cider spice reverberate through this ripe, intensely concentrated Chardonnay. While fermented with indigenous yeast and unoaked, full malolactic fermentation gives it a creamy, almost palate-coating richness. It’s a uniquely muscular Chardonnay from Long Island. — A.I. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 20 89…

The candlelit setting allowed us to focus on aromas of ginger, spice and lemon emanating from our glasses. If you’re a wine lover or craft cocktail fan, discovering your date prefers a Bud Light is more than a buzz kill— it can be a deal breaker. That’s why I was delighted when, on our third date, Matt suggested we visit Pegu Club, a cocktail bar on West Houston Street in New York City. There, we had drinks and said hello to Kenta, a bartender and Tokyo transplant we met at a wine and food festival during Date No. 2. Aft er sinking into the leather couches, Kenta set two drinks down on the handcarved wooden table. The candlelit setting allowed us to focus on aromas of ginger, spice and lemon…

Managing Editor @joeczinsta hit the ground running while in #australia, tasting through 21 bottles from #robertoatleywines in one sitting. Senior Editor @jamesonfink enjoyed #pizza with crab, pickled Fresnos, breadcrumbs, parsley and Champagne for brunch @martamanhattan. Senior Editor/Tasting Director @laurbuzzed enjoyed linguine with asparagus, egg and black truffle, paired with an earthy #Oregon Pinot Noir. For Spirits Editor @newman_kara and Photo Director @meg_baggott, there’s only one way to taste through #Cuba, and that's in a classic. Digital Managing Editor @mvataj tasted through rich sparkling #Trentodoc wines produced in the mountains of #Italy. Senior Art Director @juliaglea sipped this stunning and tasty Prosecco sparkling cocktail, perfect for summer. Stunning #wines and #bites @palmazvineyards in #coombsville #napavalley #riesling #chardonnay @VBOONE Rare wine from Sardinia... oxidation, saline, nutty finish. Almost like an Amontillado…

Since starring in the blockbuster film E.T. at age 7, Drew Barrymore has packed many careers into one life. She’s still an actress, but now also runs a film production company, a cosmetics and eyewear line and recently authored an autobiography. Oh, and she’s also into wine. Barrymore entered the wine business in 2011, first with selections from Northern Italy and since 2013 with offerings from Monterey County on California’s Central Coast. Her Pinot Grigio is labeled under the Barrymore brand, which features the crest of her late grandfather, legendary actor John Barrymore, set into a Shepard Fairey design. The Pinot Noir is part of the Jackson Family Wines-owned Carmel Road brand, labeled as “Drew’s Blend.” A rosé is also under the Barrymore brand, and more wines are planned in…

On a bicycle trip through Burgundy a few years ago, we decided to host a pre-dinner wine and appetizer party in our room for our fellow riders. We stocked up on baguettes, pâté and slices of quiche from the local bakery. We bought a couple of bottles of Mâcon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuissé, as well as some gems from Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. Requesting ice from the hotelier, we were handed a stainless steel bucket half-filled with water and four rapidly melting ice cubes. We snuck into the hotel kitchen between service and began scooping ice into our stash of one-gallon sealable plastic bags. As we were heading back upstairs, the hotel owner caught us red-handed. In halting French, we repeated, “The wine is warm and there is nowhere to buy ice,” until…

Natives of the Mediterranean basin have worshipped the restorative powers of rosé for decades. They know that the best way to refresh is a glass of something that transforms the light and warmth of the sun into a delicious chilled elixir that soothes body and soul. Today, consumers the world over have finally caught on. Consumption of premium dry rosé is growing rapidly, led by the wines of Provence. Upscale brands like Domaines Ott and Château d’Esclans/Whispering Angel (Wine Enthusiast’s 2014 European Winery of the Year), celebrity involvement (Brad Pitt/Angelina Jolie and Drew Barrymore) and specialized events like La Nuit en Rosé have fueled the category’s charge. Selected from more than 1,000 rosés reviewed by our tasting panel in the past year, these are our picks for summer’s indispensible beverage.…

CHARDONNAY 88 Confidence 2015 Indiscreet Chardonnay ( Vin de France ). This rich, full-bodied wine has ripe green and white fruits along with a touch of minerality. It is a sophisticated wine that adds acidity to its complex array of flavors. The wine is ready to drink. Metrowine Distribution . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 15 87 Cavalier & Sons 2015 Chardonnay ( Vin de France ). This attractively fruity wine has tropical-fruit flavors that are cut with acidity and a smoky touch from the short oak aging. The wine is ready to drink. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd . Best Buy. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 9 87 L. Tramier & Fils 2015 Romantic Chardonnay ( Vin de France ). Based in Burgundy, Tramier should know something about…

LUGANA 94 Tenuta Roveglia 2013 Vigne di Catullo Riserva ( Lugana). Delicately scented, this radiant wine opens with ultrarefined scents of white field flower, citrus blossom, aromatic herb and a whiff of orchard fruit. The creamy, elegantly structured palate boasts layers of juicy white peach, crisp green apple, tangerine and a hint of white almond. Fresh acidity brightens the creamy flavors while an energizing mineral note closes the lingering finish. John Given Wines . Editors’ Choice. — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 24 92 Le Morette 2015 Mandolara ( Lugana). For full review see page 90. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 20 92 Marangona 2015 Lugana. Aromas of white spring flower, mature orchard fruit and a whiff of graphite float out of the glass. The fresh, concentrated palate doles…

ROSÉ 92 Umathum 2015 Rosa ( Burgenland). The almost luminous pink hue promises exuberance: the wine delivers a plethora of fruit notes— spicy elderberries, luscious strawberries and juicy red cherries all take turns to dazzle. Is this your typical rosé? Certainly not—it’s more of an ultralight red that needs chilling. But it certainly delivers sophisticated yet fun drinking. Simply abandon yourself to its joyful flavors and celebrate summer! Vin Divino . Editors’ Choice. — A.K. abv: 13% Price: $ 22 91 Iby 2015 Rosé ( Burgenland). Shimmering with the palest salmon pink, this is a soft ly scented, restrained but very refreshing rosé. Absolutely dry, it majors on fresh lemon notes with tart inflections of red currant. The slightest fizz helps the freshness even more. Lovely. MS Walker . —…

CHARDONNAY 94 Rusack 2014 Mt. Carmel Vineyard Chardonnay ( Sta. Rita Hills ). Winemaker Steve Gerbac’s first crack at this hallowed vineyard that surrounds an unfinished monastery is a winner on all fronts. Quite light in the glass, it offers lime salt, grapefruit blossoms, riper yellow apple, a touch of spun sugar and a strong sense of salted butter on the nose. The palate shows Meyer lemon pith, nectarine flesh, chalky texture and an extreme salinity that makes the mouth water. Editors’ Choice. — M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 55 93 Artesa 2014 Estate Reserve Chardonnay ( Carneros). For full review see page 86. — V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 35 93 Beauregard 2014 Beauregard Ranch Chardonnay ( Ben Lomond Mountain). This is a lightly style wine but extremely vivacious…

Since 2009, sales of rye whiskey have soared more than 500 percent, reaching over a half-million cases in 2014. Lately, whiskey lovers have been inundated with headlines about dwindling supplies of bourbon and single malt Scotch. Don’t panic: there’s more—and better—rye whiskey available than ever before. Rye whiskey is clearly enjoying a comeback. Since 2009, sales of rye whiskey have soared more than 500 percent, reaching over a half-million cases in 2014, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States (DISCUS). Annual retail sales total about $300 million. Much of that has been driven by bartenders embracing the spirit—which is essentially, any whiskey made with at least 51% rye—for adding sizzle and spice to cocktails. Luckily, there’s also been a surge in rye supply to meet that demand.…

Bitterness may hijack headlines, but above all, today’s IPAs are a riot of citrus: lemons, limes, oranges and grapefruit. To amplify the grove-fresh aromatics and flavors supplied by hops, brewers are infusing IPAs with everything from grapefruit juice to orange zest and tangerine peel. Like splashing chili with hot sauce, the fruit addition revs up hop varieties like tangerinetinged Mandarina Bavaria or tropical, citrus-popped Citra. The resulting IPAs are stupendous warm-weather sippers, beach-ready beers for sunshine and a steady breeze. For people that blanch at bitterness, IPA’s divisive calling card, citrus offerings sport a friendlier approach, highlighting widely loved flavor profiles while reining in intensity. These citrus IPAs mostly avoid high-alcohol levels, coming in somewhere between 6–7% abv, just enough to brighten the day, not knock you over. Here are…

San Francisco’s Volta, which opened in January, is a sleek brasserie that melds French traditions with Staffan Terje’s Swedish upbringing. While these mussels are a classic French preparation, apple and cream are common Scandinavian flavors. MOULES À LA NORMANDE (NORMANDY-STYLE MUSSELS) Courtesy Staff an Terje, executive chef/co-owner, Volta, Perbacco and Barbacco, San Francisco 2 tablespoons butter 3 ounces diced bacon (¼-inch, optional) 1 onion, sliced thin 2 cups hard apple cider (dry) 4 pounds mussels, debearded and scrubbed ¼ cup Calvados ½ cup crème fraîche ¼ cup chopped parsley Salt and fresh-ground black pepper, to taste Toasted levain or sourdough bread, for serving Heat butter in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add bacon, if desired. Stir occasionally until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add onion. Cook, stirring frequently,…

Aft er a long, stressful week, sometimes the only thing to cure tense shoulders and a nagging headache is a healthy dose of indulgence. There’s no better way to treat mind and body than with a luxurious evening at home, complete with a bubble bath or a good movie and a pour of something revitalizing. Whatever your preference, here are four products, and a pairing for your glass, to help ease you into the weekend. 1. Gin, citrus, rosewater, green tea and dandelion sound like the tasting notes of a craft cocktail. But each can be found in Tokyo Milk’s Gin & Rosewater No. 12 Bon Bon Shea Butter Lotion ($20/2.3 oz). This creamy salve quenches dry skin and leaves a refreshing, summery scent. Though it’s not made with the…

While the rosé feature on page 75 offers delicious pink suggestions from around the globe, this month’s Buying Guide celebrates the essential summer wine from the essential summer resort—Provence. This year, I have reviewed more Provence rosés than ever—nearly 250 in total. That’s for a simple reason: our thirst for these wines seems unquenchable. We are by far the largest export market for rosés from this beautiful Mediterranean coast of France, and there is no indication we will slow down. This year’s crop, from the 2015 vintage, is very good. The wines have plenty of berry fruits and balancing acidity, with an attractive dancing lightness that should be the essence of this style of wine. A blend of many grapes—Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault among them—they are fruity but bone dry,…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 93 Resalte 2010 Gran Resalte ( Ribera del Duero ). Welcoming aromas of wood spice, plum and blackberry become more smoky with airing. This strong-boned RDD is pure and deep, with manageable tannins. Generous flavors of spiced blackberry, tobacco and vanilla finish long, elegant and with a lot in reserve. Drink from 2017 through 2030. Hidalgo Imports, LLC . Cellar Selection. — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 88 92 Convento de Las Claras 2012 Heritage ( Ribera del Duero ). This immediately presents itself in fine fashion. Ripe berry, generous oak and rooty notes form a complex nose. Spot on across the palate, with depth and freshness, this tastes of cherry, blackberry and mocha. A deep finish with exemplary balance confirms both quality and value. Drink through…

COLLIO 91 Gradis’ciutta 2015 Pinot Grigio ( Collio ). Round and juicy, this opens with aromas of stone fruit, dried herb and a whiff of pear. The ripe, enveloping palate doles out white peach, mature apple, juicy nectarine and a hint of bitter almond. A mineral note closes the lingering finish. Santini Wines . — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 22 91 Villa Russiz 2013 De La Tour Sauvignon ( Collio). Enticing aromas of tropical fruit, elderflower, tomato leaf and a whiff of hay lead the nose on this full-bodied white. The savory palate offers juicy honeydew melon, creamy white peach, passion fruit, chopped herb and mineral. Fresh acidity brightens the rich flavors. Empson USA Ltd . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 53 90 Venica & Venica 2015 Jesera…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 92 Huia 2015 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc ( Marlborough). This wine harmoniously blends hints of cut grass and struck flint with pink grapefruit. It’s medium in body, not at all overdone, delivering the long citrus and berry finish with the precision of cut crystal. USA Wine West . Editors’ Choice. — J.C. abv: 13% Price: $ 20 91 Craggy Range 2015 Te Muna Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ( Martinborough). As usual, the team at Craggy Range has turned out an excellent rendering of Sauvignon Blanc from the estate vineyard in Martinborough. There’s a lovely, lively interplay of stone fruit, citrus and subtle grassiness, plus a plump, silky mouthfeel and a smooth, elegant finish. Kobrand . Editors’ Choice. — J.C. abv: 13% Price: $ 22 91 Greywacke 2015 Sauvignon Blanc…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 93 Gramercy 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Columbia Valley ). You can almost just smell this wine and be completely satisfied: its earth, black currant, flower, vanilla and sandalwood aromas are so intoxicating. A further venture, however, is rewarded. The dark fruit flavors are dense and full yet still fresh and lively with a finish that sails. It’s a compelling example of Washington Cabernet that drinks beautifully now, but a few years (or more) in the cellar will be rewarded as well. Editors’ Choice. — S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 48 93 Passing Time 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Horse Heaven Hills ). Discovery Vineyard Cab makes up most of this wine, with just a splash of Champoux vineyard Franc to fill it out. Very pretty, very focused aromas of…

While they may not have the over-the-top character of their IPA brethren, pale ales are by no means lacking in flavor or distinction. Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines pale as “deficient in color or intensity of color, not bright or brilliant, feeble, faint or deficient in chroma.” Synonyms include dull, faded, light and washed-out. Pair that with the word “ale”, and innocent drinkers are apt to assume that the resulting product is a light, soft , easy-drinking selection of little intensity, complexity or character. For many pale ales, nothing could be further from the truth. They cover a wide spectrum of colors, ranging from light gold to medium copper and all shades in between. And while they may not have the over-the-top character of their IPA brethren, pale ales are by no…