Innholdsfortegnelse for Spain Bookazine 16 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Occupying the northwestern corner of Spain, Galicia is a unique part of the country that reflects Spain’s diverse history. Settled by Celts around 600 B.C. and Visigoths during the 5th century, Galicia is still home to the Gallego language, a remnant from its past inhabitants. The region’s four provinces comprise Spain’s emerald oasis, where copious amounts of rainfall during winter and spring swell rivers and turn the countryside green. A major part of the verdant landscape includes vineyards, with the wine regions of Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras and Monterrei offering excellent touring and tasting opportunities. Add Galicia’s outstanding seafood, and the region qualifies as a top destination for adventurous wine-and-food lovers. WHERE TO DINE Casa de Xantar Loaira in Pontevedra is Chef Iñaki Bretal’s popular wine and tapas…

On a temperate evening in late May, the veranda of the casona (manor) at Viñedos Alonso del Yerro, near the town of Roa, offers a soothing view of Tempranillo vines, blooming wildflowers and a slowly setting Iberian sun. At a moment like this, it’s tempting to think that Ribera del Duero is one of the kindest spots in Spain to grow grapes and make wine. But, it’s not. Far from it, in fact. To drive that point home, María del Yerro, matriarch of the family that owns Alonso del Yerro, shows me a photo of these vineyards blanketed in snow. “And in another month, it will be too hot to sit out here, so let’s enjoy it while we can,” she says, pouring me a glass of her family’s 2011…

Cristina Ibañez was raised in a traditional Basque kitchen. When not cooking for San Sebastián’s aristocracy, Ibañez’s amona (grandmother) taught her the cornerstones of local cuisine, from assembling pintxos (small snacks generally served on toothpicks) to preserving their own bonito fish. San Sebastián is considered Spain’s premier food city, and Ibañez’s classes at San Sebastián Food’s new cooking school in the five-star Hotel Maria Cristina are not to be missed. She might teach participants how to build a gilda (a pintxo made with a pickled Gernika pepper, a slice of anchovy and an olive) or make her award-winning marmitako (tuna soup). With Ibañez, it’s not all Basque, all the time. She also makes a mean paella, big or small. And by big, we mean one capable of feeding more than…

In the fall of 2014, four out of every fififive Catalan voters cast straw-poll ballots favoring secession from Spain. A year later, separatist candidates dominated regional elections. Who knows what the future holds with respect to Catalan independence, but at least for now, the Catalonian provinces of Barcelona, Tarragona, Lleida and Girona remain part of Spain. But in the same way that Catalans have a culture that diffffffffffffers greatly from their Castilian, Galician or Andalusian countrymen, Catalonianwines have little in commonwith those fromthe rest of Spain. Catalonia’s 10 denominated wine regions focus mostly on so-called Mediterranean grape varieties, primarily Garnacha and Carignan (also called Cariñena or Samsó) among red grapes, and Garnacha Blanca and Xarel-lo among white grapes. There’s also Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Trepat planted throughout Catalonia,…

PEAS & CHANTERELLES WITH PORCINI PIL-PIL SAUCE PORCINI PIL-PIL SAUCE 1 cup porcini jus* 2/3 cup garlic-infused olive oil* Add garlic-infused olive oil to porcini jus a few drops at a time, whisking constantly to create an emulsion. Set aside. PEAS & CHANTERELLES 4 tablespoons garlic, finely diced 7/8 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 pounds finely chopped yellow onions 1 sprig thyme, destemmed 1 sprig rosemary, destemmed 1 bay leaf 7 ounces peeled, stemmed, diced tomato (about 1 large) 4 tablespoons tomato puré 3 ounces cubed cured bacon 4 ounces cubed butifarra negra sausage (or morcilla or butifarra blanca) Sa lt and pepper, to taste 14 ounces cleaned, trimmed chanterelles 18 ounces freshly shelled green peas (or frozen) 4/5 cup water *Porcini jus and garlic-infused olive oil recipes available…

All great chefs preach the gospel of quality ingredients, but Raúl Prior of Álbora in Madrid has one big advantage: a direct line to the pope of Spanish ham, José Gómez. (Besides owning Álbora, Gómez is CEO of Joselito, Spain’s premier producer of Ibérico pork products.) While Prior features his share of porcine delights, the rest of Álbora’s menu covers more ground than Gómez’s freeranging pigs. NOTE: THIS IS A FLEXIBLE RECIPE. CHOOSE YOUR PREFERRED VEGETABLES FROM THE LIST AT RIGHT. ASSORTED VEGETABLES WITH HAM CREMA & FOAM 47/8 cups heavy cream, divided 13 ounces chopped Ibérico ham (can substitute serrano ham or prosciutto), divided 41/8 cups chicken stock (if not homemade, use low-sodium stock) 4 ounces unsalted butter Extra-virgin olive oil Assorted vegetables, enough for 4 servings; options include…

Often the anchor for a hearty seafood stew, squid gets a tempura twist in this recipe from Carlos Abad Landeras, chef at Tirso Tapas Restaurante in Palma de Mallorca. Chili and paprika— both staples of the Mallorcan kitchen—accentuate the flavors. Adding finely grated fresh garlic to the mayonnaise emulates the Catalan allioli (aioli) relished by locals. 21/5 pounds calamari (squid) 3 tablespoons quality mayonnaise or allioli (make by adding fresh-grated garlic to taste), plus another ½ cup plain mayonnaise (for garnish) 3 cups tempura flour ¾ cup lager beer 3/8 cup sparkling water 2 te aspoons baking powder 1 sachet squid ink (if not using ink from fresh squid, available online or at fine fishmongers) 8 teaspoons goodquality sweet paprika 2 tablespoons chilibased sauce, like sriracha Da sh Sherry vinegar,…

Within the walls of the González Byass winery, founded in 1835, orange trees and vine-adorned cobblestone pathways connect one enormous barrel-filled solera to another, each containing thousands of black casks filled with all types of highly aromatic Sherry wines. From the company’s early days through the latter half of the 20th century, the sprawling winery was a community unto itself. Workers lived in the bodega with their families, and employees ate meals in groups. Children of some González Byass winemakers and bodegueros (winery workers) were born and raised there. One such person is Antonio Flores (pictured), born in 1955 in a room above a barrel vault. “The original Tio Pepe solera is called Rebollo,” says Flores, González Byass’s chief winemaker and master blender since 1980. “I was born directly upstairs.”…

Founded over 130 years ago in Valencia, Spain, and afer four generations dedicated to the wine business, Vicente Gandía is one of the leading wineries of Spain. The World Wine Journalist Association appointed Vicente Gandia as one of the top 50 wineries in the world in terms of quality, based on ratings in all of the wine challenges worldwide. Producing fne wines from nine different Spanish Appellations of Origin, Luís García Severino continues to use his expertise in making wines that represent the essence of each wine region. Combining elegance and modernity Vicente Gandia’s wines represent the best of Spain. The Hoya de Cadenas Estate located inland of Valencia is a wine paradise with 300 Hectares of vineyards where the Gandia family elaborates some of their most prestigious wines. In…

Named Spain’s chef of the year in 2008, Beatriz Sotelo puts her refined spin on Galicia’s traditionally rustic fare at A Estación in Cambre, which she runs with fellow chef Xoán Crujeiras. Thanks to the boldly flavored menu and a wine list featuring regional standouts, A Estación, housed in the converted canteen of an old railway station, has become a destination in its own right. —Sofia Pérez ROASTED CHICKEN AND VEGETABLES WITH CHESTNUT SAUCE AND MENCÍA JUS 4 chicken legs Kosher salt, to taste 2 medium yellow onions, quartered 2 green peppers, coarsely sliced 4 cloves garlic 1 bay leaf 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 ounces peeled and roasted chestnuts 2 tablespoons brown sugar ¼ cup fresh-squeezed orange juice ½ cup whole milk ½ cup Mencía wine (or other…

Progressive yet steeped in tradition, Rioja is home to more than 600 wineries, dozens of which are notable. Yet, within this land of vinous riches, certain producers stand out for their history and accomplishments. Here’s Rioja’s “First Team,” or what Spaniards might call la selecció: six wineries that have been getting it done in the vineyards and in their cellars, enhancing Rioja’s top-flight image. “There’s no shtick. We are simply taking more pride in who we are and what we do.” —Victor Urrutia THE PHOENIX Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (CVNE) Victor Urrutia is part of the fift h generation of the family that owns Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España, better known as CVNE. Urrutia is as Spanish as tenor Plácido Domingo or the actor Javier Bardem, but…

Set on a rugged plateau tucked into a landscape of castles and medieval villages, Rueda is one of Spain’s most important white wine regions. Named after a town in the province of Valladolid, the Rueda Denominación de Origen (DO) touches three provinces: Valladolid, Segovia and Ávila. It was established in 1980, but like elsewhere in Spain, Rueda’s viticultural traditions extend back for centuries. White wine comprises more than 95 percent of the production in Rueda, and the vast majority of those bottlings use Verdejo. Locals believe Verdejo originated in North Africa and was brought to Spain by the Moors. The first record of Verdejo’s production in Rueda dates to the 11th century. Characterized by firm acidity and an attractive fruit profile, Verdejo offers notes ranging from citrusy to tropical, inflected…

Elena Arzak grew up shopping at farmers’ markets with her father, the famous Juan Mari Arzak, who helped found the New Basque Cuisine movement in the 1970s. Today, they work alongside each other as head chefs at Arzak, the family’s Michelin three-star restaurant in San Sebastián. She was named Best Female Chef in the World in 2012 by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy. Arzak’s earliest wine memories involve tasting the crisp local white, Txakoli, from her grandmother’s glass and enjoying a sip of Cava on New Year’s Eve. “I always liked the ritual and paraphernalia around wine service,” she says, which is taken to the level of art at her celebrated restaurant. Aft er training at hotel school in Switzerland, Arzak worked with noted chefs like Albert Roux in…

Everybody knows the adage, “all that glitters is not gold,” but it’s equally important to remember that all that sparkles isn’t Champagne. Just as Champagne can only be made in the Champagne AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégé) of France, Cava also has Denominación de Origen (DO) status, meaning that it can be produced only in specific regions of Spain using approved grape varieties. Although Cava can come from eight places in Spain, almost 95 percent of the sparkling wine is produced in Penedès, a region of Catalonia. Consequently, it’s not surprising that Cava has long served as a symbol of the strongly independent Catalan culture. “This Mediterranean region has [had] its own identity and winemaking tradition for more than 2,700 years,” says Pere Ventura, owner of the Cava house that bears…

“I’m a wine drinker, not a taster. I like wines made by people, not companies.” The fundamental tenet behind Javier Barba’s architecture is that the land speaks. While one can touch and feel soil, a rock, tree or pond, it’s what the land says—or doesn’t say—that guides Spain’s foremost “green” architect. Born into a family headed by a successful architect/developer, Barba, a native Barceloní, runs a nine-person studio. It has designed critically acclaimed, formmeets-function homes, hotels, apartment complexes and sports facilities in more than a dozen countries, including Spain, Portugal, Greece, Mexico and the U.S. Also prominent in the portfolio of BC Estudio Architects, which Barba founded in the 1980s, are a pair of winery projects commissioned by two of the wine world’s biggest names. In 1999, the firm designed…

“Our goal was to give our small region an identity, and I think we have.” Aself-described “U.N. brat,” Victor de la Serna spent much of his youth in Geneva and New York City, where his wine-loving father, a journalist and diplomatic attaché at the time, introduced him to the best of Burgundy and some early California trendsetters. “When I was about 13, Dad took me to Burgundy and showed me a vineyard, saying, ‘This is La Romanée-Conti, the best in the world,’ ” says de la Serna. “My response was, ‘It looks just like the one next door.’ To which he said, ‘No, that’s La Tâche, and it’s not as good.’ ” A few years aft er realizing that great wines come from a particular place, de la Serna tasted…

In the search for interesting and authentic wines, wine lovers will leave no stone—or, in this case, island—unturned. Enter the Balearic and Canary Islands: two separate archipelagos (one Mediterranean, one Atlantic) that are autonomous communities of Spain. Although separated by vast waters from the Spanish mainland, they share its spirit for innovative winemaking in dramatic landscapes. Martin Cerdá, of Florida-based wine importer Cerdá, Llanos y Cía, grew up in Mallorca, one of the Balearic Islands off Spain’s east coast, and says island wines represent the “new Spanish wine frontier.” He says they help stretch consumers’ tastes beyond the traditional Tempranillo and Garnacha. Long revered for its natural beauty and Mediterranean climes, Mallorca is now on the radar as an intriguing wine producer. AGE-OLD TRADITIONS Perhaps 2,000 years ago, Pliny the…

Celebrated in Andalucía, Chef Teresa Barrenechea is also well known in the U.S., thanks to television and radio appearances with Martha Stewart and on NBC’s Today show. She offers cooking classes at her home in Ronda, a mountaintop city perched above a dramatic gorge. Her dish showcases two of Andalucía’s most prized ingredients—shrimp and avocado—brought together with salmorejo, the region’s signature purée made from tomatoes, bread and other ingredients. PAIR IT: Made from 100% Moscatel, Jorge Ordonez’s 2014 Botani Moscatel is a dry white wine that captures the spirit of the Málaga DO. Slightly floral, yet clean and crisp, it pairs perfectly with the spice and pungency of the salmorejo vinaigrette and the salinity of the shrimp. The rich mouthfeel accents the umami and creaminess of the avocado. AVOCADO…

Galicia & Northwest Spain | North Central Spain | Central Spain | Levante & Islands Wines From Spain winesfromspainusa.com We’re committed to increasing awareness of Spanish wines throughout the United States through education, special events and promotions. Visit our Web site or Facebook page to view our animated videos, 4 Grapes to Know and Aging Red Wines. Bodegas Marqués de Carrión S.A. (Rioja) Bodega Viña Arnáiz S.A. (Ribera del Duero) Bodega Señorío de los Llanos S.A. (Valdepeñas) Jaume Serra S.A. (Cava) garciacarrion.es/en; +34 91 435 55 56 J. García Carrión is Europe’s largest winery and Pata Negra is one of its most iconic brands. For Pata Negra, it all began in Valdepeñas, but production has now expanded to Spain’s best wine regions, including Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Cava, Penedès, Rueda,…

On the soccer pitch, Andrés Iniesta’s sublime play for FC Barcelona and the Spanish national team has earned him nicknames like El Ilusionista (The Illusionist) and El Cerebro (The Brain). Over his career, he’s scored a World Cup-winning goal for his country and hoisted dozens of soccer’s most cherished trophies. But away from the packed stadiums, Iniesta, considered one of the world’s best midfielders, assumes a supporting role at his family’s winery in Manchuela, where he grew up. Iniesta spoke with us about Bodega Iniesta, the joys of Spanish gastronomy and how to properly celebrate a big victory. “Having two wines named af er my kids gives me a real sense of happiness, and they’re both excellent wines.” You come from a village near Albacete. Did you grow up with…

Growing up in Galicia, Jorge Vázquez always knew that he wanted to design clothes. The influence of “Green Spain” is evident in the lushly patterned floral fabrics he chooses for his ready-to-wear and couture lines, and it also flourishes on a limited-edition wine label he created for Bodegas Mar de Frades in Rías Baixas. Following in the footsteps of fashion designer Miguel Palacio, the design team Alvarno, and model and jewelry designer Laura Ponte, Vázquez was chosen by Mar de Frades to create a label for the winery’s 2014 Albariño. “The North has always been a great inspiration for me,” says Vázquez. “In all my collections, there is a hint of Galicia, its scenery, its way of life—it is part of my work.” Vázquez dressed the easily recognizable blue bottle…

Among Spanish wine regions, Rioja ranks as the most renowned. Located in north-central Spain along the Ebro River, the region is anchored by the midsize city of Logroño. Rioja entered the modern commercial wine era in the 19th century, when French winemakers, looking to escape the spreading phylloxera plague, crossed the Pyrenees and settled here. Today, the region offers an elite mix of Franco-Iberian history, stunning scenery, proprietary cuisine, brilliant wines and a meshing of old and new. Spain’s greatest wine region is at its welcoming best in late spring or during the harvest in early fall. WHERE TO DINE The quintessential food experience in Rioja centers around strolling the bustling streets of Laurel, San Agustín and San Juan in central Logroño and feasting on regional tapas accompanied by local…

Long the classical guitar to Barcelona’s more contemporary beat, Madrid has relaxed its strict adherence to tradition to embrace fresh spins on enduring themes. Palaces provide elegant homes to hip hotels, cocktail bars explore new frontiers beyond the trendy “Gin Tonic” (the preferred Spanish nomenclature), and food halls receive singular avant-garde transformations. WHERE TO STAY Walking distance to of-the-moment neighborhoods Chueca and Tribunal, Urso Hotel and Spa creates a discreet boutique experience inside a 20th-century palace. In the city center, Hotel Urban blends concrete, glass and steel in common spaces, while soft ening the sleep experience in rooms with natural materials. The rooftop pool beckons on sun-drenched aft ernoons, while the adjacent cocktail terrace provides starlit views at night. Located on the Gran Vía, the Principal Madrid Hotel delivers unfussy,…

Long popular with Europeans, from royal famili es to tennis stars like Boris Becker and locally born Rafael Nadal, Mallorca is ripe for discovery by Americans weary of the same old island vacation. Diverse and striking landscapes, intact ancient villages and easy attitudes—even in Palma, its largest city—are just a few of the siren charms of this under-the-radar island. The largest of the Balearic Islands spans only 1,405 square miles, yet it is home to the UNESCO-designated Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, a Gothic cathedral with artistry and heritage that rival any found on mainland Europe, seven Michelin-starred restaurants and a medieval capital (Palma) layered with exotic histories. And it’s all hugged by glittery Mediterranean beaches and dramatic rugged cliffs. WHERE TO DINE You can find high cuisine in high…

“My favorite Spanish cities for eating and drinking are Almería and Murcia.” A chart-topping singer with five million records sold since his 2002 debut; winner of 60 music-industry accolades, including two Latin Grammy Awards and the World Music Award for Best Latin Artist; a renowned performer who has headlined over 700 concerts around the world. All those accomplishments describe Latin pop sensation David Bisbal, a native of Almería in Andalucía, who still calls that city home. Bisbal was born into the world of music. His father, a professional boxer, was also part of a flamenco trio. “Flamenco was born in Spain, in Andalucía, and crossed borders to reach the entire world,” Bisbal says. “Obviously, flamenco and copla [a style of Spanish pop songs popular in the 1940s] have greatly influenced…