Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2016 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

GALA ITALIA More than 300 attendees joined host and Italian Wine & Food Institute President Dr. Lucio Caputo at the 31st Gala Italia event on February 18 in New York City. Guests enjoyed a walk-around tasting featuring producers from around Italy before hearing from the night’s honorees, including W.E. Editor and Publisher Adam Strum, who received the prestigious Italian Wine Excellence Award for his 37 years of Italian wine support. LA NUIT EN ROSÉ In February, a celebration of rosé’s diversity, drinkability and booming popularity was held at ArtBeam in New York City. The W.E.-partnered event was the first of five festivals in which guests were invited to drink their fill of rosé while indulging in bites from local chefs, including Chef John DeLutro of Caffe Palmero and Chefs Keavy…

MARY MCAULEY, RIPE LIFE WINES “I’m a beach kid, and I grew up on the Jersey shore,” says McAuley. Her upbringing, experience as a sommelier and “unofficial wine guru for family and friends” inspired her first wine, an unoaked Chardonnay called The Clambake. And while this food-friendly California white wine is perfect for seafood, McAuley thinks that what’s in the bottle should be able to stand on its own. “The end factor is flavor,” she says. “I’m still focused on flavor.” The 2015 Clambake Rosé will get you ready for summer, and stay tuned for an upcoming red blend, The Tailgate. ANDRÉ HUESTON MACK, MOUTON NOIR WINES Though California has plenty of allure when it comes to wine, Mack chose to set up shop in a different state. “Oregon has…

This savory galette epitomizes the food of Aran Goyoaga, a Seattle-based writer, photographer and food stylist. Born in Spain’s Basque Country, Goyoaga has an award-winning blog, Cannelle et Vanille, a cookbook, Small Plates and Sweet Treats (Little, Brown and Company, 2012), and a must-follow Instagram account (@cannellevanille). Each illustrate a world where everything is in season and tables are gorgeously spread. Don’t avoid asparagus because of its perceived trickiness to pair with wine—oven-roasting asparagus brings out its natural sweetness, rendering it more wine-friendly. ASPARAGUS, LEEK AND IDIAZABAL GALETTE Courtesy Aran Goyoaga, writer, photographer and food stylist, Seattle 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 leek (white and pale green part only), thinly sliced 1 red onion, thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 large…

Glance down the long wooden bar at The Esquire Tavern in San Antonio—the longest in Texas, spanning over 100 feet—and you’ll see a whole lot of margaritas. It’s easy to understand why. Esquire’s Nuestra Margarita (“Our Margarita,” in Spanish) hits all the right notes: it’s strong, you don’t taste the booze and it straddles the line between sweet and sour. Paired with a Frito Pie, a Texas specialty, it’s hard to imagine ever vacating the barstool. “The Margarita is the quintessential Tequila cocktail, and the cocktail most ordered in Texas bars,” says Houston Eaves, beverage director for The Esquire Tavern and creator of the Nuestra, which he describes as “my interpretation of the perfect margarita.” His version stays close to the classic recipe, with a couple of subtle tweaks: he…

When it comes to global phenomena with passionate fans taking pride in what’s local and national, wine and sports share a great affinity. From upstarts and underdogs to well-established icons, there’s always a reason to cheer for what’s in your glass and who’s on the field. And with more of the world’s most famous athletes getting involved with wine, it’s never been a better time to cheer for the home team...and vineyard. So let the games begin. Just don’t forget the wine.…

12-TIME OLYMPIC MEDALIST FOR USA SWIMMING (3 GOLD, 4 SILVER, 5 BRONZE) Did growing up in Northern California influence your love of food? I was born and raised in Vallejo, went to UC-Berkeley and now I live in Lafayette. My mom is a really good cook. I never had to cook until I went to college, but I was exposed to a lot of different cultures— her side is Filipino. And because both my parents worked, my sister and I were looked after by a neighbor couple. She was German and he was Italian, so I was exposed to those foods, too. As a kid, I was a picky eater, but I grew out of it. At [UC-Berkeley], there are so many ethnic eats, and after a year of dorm…

AAMI PARK, MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA Home to the Melbourne Storm (rugby) and Melbourne Victory (soccer), this architecturally fantastic rectangular stadium with a bioframe roof is a marvel. Locals hit Edwin’s Cafe on the ground level for batter-fried Australian flathead tails with fat chips and lemon aioli. LEVI’S STADIUM, SANTA CLARA, CALIFORNIA Home field of the San Francisco 49ers and the recent Super Bowl 50, great food and drink abound here. Locals head to the suite level for the grilled Castroville artichokes, served with charred lemon, garlic aioli and chives. The heirloom carrot cake with Mascarpone cream-cheese frosting is also stellar. STADE DE FRANCE, PARIS Home to soccer, rugby and big-name concerts, le Stade offers a selection of VIP seats and private boxes, in addition to the sleekly designed restaurant Salon Le{Club},…

Perhaps the biggest disadvantage that faces the just-released 2011 Brunellos is that they come on the heels of the widely acclaimed 2010s. Awarded four out of five stars by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, the 2011s won’t be remembered as a classic vintage. Overall, the wines have an immediate, juicy appeal that exceeded my expectations from what was a difficult, torrid growing season. The best show some staying power, and more than a few display unexpected complexity. Erratic weather conditions show the challenges growers faced in this vintage: From early bud break in the beginning of April (at least 10 days earlier than usual), to an extremely rainy midsummer, followed by soaring heat in August and September. Thanks to the elevated temperatures close to harvest, sugar content in…

CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 92 Casaloste 2010 Don Vincenzo Gran Selezione ( Chianti Classico ). A short time in the glass unlocks earthy aromas of truffle, underbrush, mature plum and a whiff of French oak. The concentrated palate doles out fleshy wild cherry, sweet baking spice and licorice while velvety tannins provide a smooth, rich texture. Drink 2017–2025. MS Walker. — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 92 Livernano 2011 Casalvento Gran Selezione ( Chianti Classico ). Delicate aromas of wild berry, crushed violet, baking spice and a whiff of menthol take shape in the glass. The firm palate offers ripe black cherry, ground pepper, clove and licorice while fine-grained tannins provide polished support. Drink through 2020. Amici Imports. — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 92 Lornano 2011 Gran Selezione (…

WHITE WINES CONDRIEU 94 Les Vins de Vienne 2012 Les Archeveques ( Condrieu ). Full-bodied and opulent, this wine boasts a smoky-toasty layer of oak over all the standard Condrieu goodness—honeysuckle, apricot and tropical fruit. Toasted coconut lingers on the long, plush finish. DHI Selections. — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $100 93 E. Guigal 2012 Condrieu. This is less flamboyant than some Condrieus, but it still shows characteristic honeyed, floral notes. It’s also one of the less expensive wines from the appellation and the most widely available. Apricot joins the party on the balanced palate and lingers through the finish. Drink now–2020. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 92 Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin 2012 La Loye ( Condrieu ). Toasted coconut accents the honey and tropical fruit…

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 94 Au Pied du Mont Chauve 2012 Les Chenevottes Premier Cru ( Chassagne-Montrachet ). Structured and tight, this mineral-driven wine is still in its initial stages of development. It has crisp acidity, layers of spicy wood and a rich palate. Apples and white peach emerge from the firm, young structure. Drink this wine from 2018. The vineyard is next door to the Grand Cru Montrachet vines. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $75 93 Au Pied du Mont Chauve 2012 La Maltroie Premier Cru ( Chassagne-Montrachet ). This intense wine comes from a vineyard just below the main street of Chassagne-Montrachet village. While the aromas are still toasty, the palate is full of fresh fruit, with a tensely mineral structure. Hints of yellow…

RIESLING 91 MaidenStoen 2014 Lafond Vineyard Riesling ( Sta. Rita Hills ). For full review see page 94. abv: 13.2% Price: $22 90 Fess Parker 2014 Rodney’s Vineyard Riesling ( Santa Barbara County ). Orange blossoms, petrol and 7-Up aromas show on the soft but punchy nose from this single-vineyard bottling. The palate is texturally intriguing with a pithy grip, as dry flavors of tart apples, chalk and pink lemonade meld for a classic and age-worthy profile. — M.K. abv: 12.2% Price: $24 90 MaidenStoen 2014 Zabala Vineyard Riesling ( Monterey County). For full review see page 97. abv: 12.27% Price: $22 89 MaidenStoen 2014 Coast View Vineyard Riesling ( Monterey County). A straightforward, modern dry Riesling, this wine shows a slight hint of gasoline, citrus blossoms, wet river stones…

CHARDONNAY 93 Burrowing Owl 2014 Chardonnay ( Okanagan Valley ). Starting with the package, this comes in a lovely, graceful, goosenecked bottle. The wine is equally svelte, buttery and flat-out yummy, a silky, creamy blend of apple, pear, nut butter and caramel. The length, texture and integration of the barrel and fruit flavors make this extra special. Burrowing Owl. Editors’ Choice. — P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 91 Mission Hill 2013 Perpetua Chardonnay ( Okanagan Valley). Rich and concentrated, this uber-reserve offers well-defined pear and lemon curd flavors, within a fresh pastry setting. The length and creamy texture is impressive. Drink now through 2020. Mission Hill Family Estate. — P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 89 Township 7 2014 Reserve Chardonnay ( Okanagan Valley). This blends Dijon clones 76 and 96,…

With spring in full bloom and summer looming just around the corner, it’s the perfect time of year for a transitional brew, one that will move us from the robust porters, hearty strong ales and imperial selections enjoyed throughout winter and even the beginning of spring to lighter, crisper quaffs. Not quite ready for wheat beers and pilsners, amber or red ales are the perfect choice for this time of year. American-style amber (or red ales) are a bit of a catch-all category, with examples ranging from light copper to amber to light brown in color. Typically high in maltines, with low to medium caramel character and a light fruitiness, American examples are also usually characterized by their use of American hop varieties, producing anywhere from soft to well-pronounced hop…

Looking for a way to get a party started? Bypass a wine glass in favor of dramatic drinking out of a porron. Likely descended from wineskins, porrons are popular in the Basque Country for drinking wine (particularly Txakoli). The Porron Wine Pitcher ($30 at wineenthusiast.com) is made in Spain from recycled, hand-blown glass. To drink from it, tilt your head back and pour directly into your mouth without touching the spout. It takes skill to master, but there’s a bonus: You won’t dirty any glasses while sharing a round with friends. WHAT TO PUT IN YOUR PORRON The Basque Coast of Spain is notoriously craggy and green, with a strong Atlantic influence that brings cool temperatures and much precipitation. While this may not sound like typical wine country, Basque winemakers…

Our most memorable trip to Venice occurred during winter flood season. Leaving our hotel near Piazza San Marco,the city was entirely navigable on foot. But after an evening strolling from bar to bar sampling aperitivi and cicchetti, we discovered over two feet of rain and seawater inundating San Marco. We attempted an alternate route, but ultimately, we removed our shoes and socks, rolled our pant legs up to our knees and waded back to the hotel through frigid water, laughing with each step. In this city of churches and bridges, our favorite pastime is discovering neighborhood bars that serve small plates with a glass of Soave or Prosecco. Bring this custom home by mixing up a batch of Aperol Spritzes, opening refreshing white wines and snacking like the Venetians. THE…

3-TIME NBA CHAMPION; FINALS MVP; SHOOTING GUARD MIAMI HEAT; PARTNER, WADE CELLARS What were your initial steps getting into the wine business? First was getting down to experience Napa Valley. It was my first time there when my wife and I met with the Pahlmeyer family, and had this conversation about starting this wine. Then it was going out and drinking every wine we could find. We also had the opportunity to spend time with the Pahlmeyer family, go into the vineyard and learn from Jayson about how they make their wines, what years are the best. We were also able to walk through the vineyards and pick some grapes, touching and feeling the project. So you are letting your passion and curiosity lead your business moves? I’ve been blessed…

When did you start getting interested in wine? I’m from Vallejo, so I always drove through Napa Valley, whether we were going to a racetrack or a lake, to go skiing or boating or just visiting family and friends. As a kid, I can remember seeing these vineyards and wondering what they were all about. That area looked nothing like the area that I grew up in. The mid-’90s is what really stands out to me. I won a championship, and I went to London and decided to go out to a really nice restaurant and celebrate. I’d never seen a wine list like that before. It was mind-boggling, the variations as well as the quality of the wines. I went with a white Burgundy, a Joseph Drouhin. They decanted…

How often do you enjoy wine? I’ll have it four [or] five times a week. During the season, it’s sort of a fun thing we have. I tell the players, “I only drink wine when we win.” We play 162 games. It’s a pretty done deal you’re going to lose about 60 for sure, depending on the year. You play.500, you’re going to lose 81 games. That’s a lot of days without wine, so I tell the players, “I want wine tonight.” Is that their motivation? Pablo [Sandoval, former Giants third baseman] would have fun with it: “Skipper gets to drink wine tonight, because we’re going to win.” How did you get interested in wine? One of the greatest perks I have with managing here in San Francisco is we…

Great value wines with surprising freshness and diversity. If you've never tried Costieres de Nimes wines before, you're in for a wonderful surprise. The southernmost of the Rhone Valley wine-growing areas, this region enjoys an epicurean lifestyle and its wines have a sunny, generous nature. This is Camargue country, steeped in culture and history. The Costieres de Nimes area is renowned for its ancient Roman sites (the mighty Pont du Gard and Nimes arena are famous examples), its black bulls, white horses and flamingos, and the colorful feria events which attract thousands of revelers in a lively celebration of food, wine and local traditions. The vineyards are situated south east of the city of Nimes, producing red, white and rose wines whose unique character is derived from the expressive quality…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following…

RED WINES RIBEIRA SACRA 90 Don Bernardino 2012 Amandi Mencía ( Ribeira Sacra ). Earthy plum and cherry aromas score points for being clear and direct. The palate on this varietal Mencía is round, smooth and just right. Lightly briny, earthy plum and cherry flavors hold steady on the finish, with a dash of saltiness. The Spanish Acquisition. — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $17 89 D. Ventura 2012 Pena do Lobo Mencía ( Ribeira Sacra ). D. Ventura’s 2012s succeed in capturing the elegance of Ribeira Sacra Mencía. This shows aromas of brick dust, spice, tomato, animal fur and dried cherry. The palate is fresh and direct, with punchy raspberry and plum flavors that turn tangy and lean on a quick finish. De Maison Selections, Inc. — M.S. abv: 12.5%…

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 95 Domaine Santa Duc 2012 Habemus Papam ( Châteauneuf-du-Pape ). From a domaine located in Gigondas, this is a profound Châteauneufdu-Pape. Yes, there’s some toasty oak on the nose, but underneath is a big, sturdy core of dark cherries, bay leaf and garrigue. This is a structured wine that’s built for the cellar. Drink 2018–2030. Robert Kacher Selections. Cellar Selection. — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $110 93 Famille Perrin 2013 Château de Beaucastel ( Châteauneuf-du-Pape ). While not the most structured vintage of Beaucastel, this is a fullbodied, creamy-textured rendering of Châteauneufdu-Pape. Finely detailed notes of plum, thyme and leather mark the nose, while the flavors are ripe almost to the point of jamminess. Drink now–2025. Vineyard Brands. — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $109 92 André Brunel 2012 Les…

KÉKFRANKOS 90 Weninger 2011 Steiner Kékfrankos ( Sopron). This well-balanced wine has scents of finely ground black pepper, dried cherry, black plum and violets with flavors of plum, blackberry and tart cherry. The tannins are smooth and the finish is persistent. Circo Vino. — J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 88 Bock 2013 Kékfrankos ( Villány). This cherry-colored wine offers the nose baking spice, tart cherry and black peppercorns. It has a medium body with nice minerality and flavors of blueberry jam, tart cherries and dried violets. Old World Vines. — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 87 Weninger 2012 Balf Kékfrankos ( Sopron). Freshly ground black pepper and dark cherries scent this Hungarian Kékfrankos. It is medium bodied, presenting flavors of pomegranate and sour cherry with a slightly tart finish. Circo…

SYRAH 96 Charles Smith 2012 Royal City Syrah ( Columbia Valley ). Green olive, green stem and fresh herb aromas are at the fore, with cured meat, peat, smoke and mineral notes close behind. The palate offers dense fruit and savory flavors that command attention, with smoked meat notes that just won’t quit. The balance and length are mesmerizing. — S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $140 95 K Vintners 2012 Cattle King Syrah ( Snipes Mountain ). The kirsch, cranberry, dried herb, pomegranate and barrel spice aromas are laser focused, with smoked meat notes providing accents. The black fruit flavors are über concentrated and dense. It’s wound tightly at first but when it opens up, it delivers. — S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 94 K Vintners 2012 Klein Syrah ( Walla…

RIESLING 91 Empire Estate 2014 Dry Riesling ( Finger Lakes). For full review see page 94. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12% Price: $18 90 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2014 Eugenia Dry Riesling ( Finger Lakes). Spine-tingling acidity is off set by pristine white peach and pear notes in this intensely mineral dry Riesling. An homage to Eugenia Frank, wife of Dr. Konstantin Frank, it’s seemingly delicate in stature yet persistent and penetrating, finishing with cool, steely focus. — A.I. abv: 12% Price: $30 90 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2014 Reserve Riesling ( Finger Lakes). While exuberantly fruity, almost tropical on the nose, there’s a crystalline edge to this dry Riesling that renders it especially refreshing. It’s vibrant and light footed, brightened by a lingering honey note on the finish. — A.I. abv: 12%…

MONDAY #WEnews Get the scoop on breaking beverage news TUESDAY #BestWinesFor Find your wine shopping list for every occasion WEDNESDAY #WEprofile Read exclusive conversations with tastemakers THURSDAY #EditorSpeak Learn insider tips and trends from our editors FRIDAY #WEpairing Try curated weekend recipes and pairings Follow us @WineEnthusiast…

Since April showers bring May flowers, what do May flowers bring? Floral wines, naturally. Enjoying aromatic wines is a sure-fire path to sensory pleasure. These five wines selected by our editors deliver vibrant floral bouquets—even if it’s raining outside. 91 V. Sattui 2014 Dry Gewurztraminer (Anderson Valley); $26 The smell of roses is vivid and pure, and the flavor of nectarines is strong in this attention-grabbing, full-bodied and lavishly textured wine. Just as remarkable is the rich texture, which clings to the mouth after each sip. —Jim Gordon 88 Rock Wall 2012 Heringer Vineyard Teroldego (Yolo County); $25 Floral aromas like lilac and lavender, and dry, substantial flavors like blueberry and boysenberry give this full-bodied wine lots to like. Acidity and tannins are well balanced, so it has an appetizing…

“I'm still learning the [wine] profile that tickles me, kind of like the Liatiko grape from Greece.” One look at the wine list at Brooklyn’s June is enough to get Sharon Van Etten excited. After ordering a bottle of Brendan Tracey 2013 Le Capitalisme Rouge, a Gamay-Côt blend from France’s Loire Valley, the ambitious songstress opened up about how wine fits into her touring life and her inspiring path to becoming a wine lover. You got into wine pretty early on. What first inspired your interest? When I was in high school, I was an exchange student in Spain and the family that I lived with, on one of our last trips together, they took me on a drive. We ended up on their family’s vineyard in Rioja. They gave…

In Condrieu, both 2013 and 2014 are chock-full of stellar wines. The Bordelais are masters of building up vintages, kind of like baseball’s New York Mets and their numerous “five-tool prospects.” (Who remembers Alex Escobar or Fernando Martinez, a k a F-Mart?) But other regions have answered, including producers in the Northern Rhône, who are touting 2015 as a great year. As early as November, a press release from Maison M. Chapoutier called it “Grandiose and Exceptional!” Importers have piled on. Lyle Fass of Fass Selections crowed on Facebook about one wine: “First 15 and you are not going to believe how great this is. The length.” By all accounts, the 2015s will be something to look forward to when they arrive. I plan on visiting later this year to…

Drew Bledsoe In 2007, the former NFLquarterback returned home to Walla Walla, Washington, where he joined vintner Chris Figgins with one goal: creating an ultrapremium Cabernet from local grapes. And it worked: Their Doubleback Cabernet has been scoring points with aficionados since its first release. Ernie Els Founding Ernie Els Wines in the Stellenbosch region of his native South Africa in 1999, the former World No. 1 golfer has teamed with Winemaker Louis Strydom to create a strong portfolio of wines. Selections range from a pricey Bordeaux-style signature blend ($93), to an inexpensive Chenin Blanc called The Big Easy, Els’s nickname ($16). David Frost The 10-time PGA Tour winner bought his first set of clubs with money he made picking grapes in his dad’s vineyard in South Africa. In 1994,…

1912 People pay upward of $3,000 for bottles of Bordeaux and Madeira from this year, which is when Jim Thorpe—considered by many the epitome of athleticism in his era—won pentathlon and decathlon gold during the Summer Olympics in Stockholm. 1964 “I shook up the world!” screamed 22-year-old Cassius Clay (who later changed his name to Muhammad Ali) after knocking out titlist Sonny Liston to become boxing’s heavyweight champion of the world. That fight was in Miami, but across the ocean in Spain, Rioja’s vines were starting to bud into a classic vintage. 1969 An epic vintage in Burgundy, this was also the first game of cially dubbed as the “Super Bowl,” although it was the third championship game between the rival AFLand NFL. The Joe Namath-led New York Jets stunned…

Cricket World Cup After proving triumphant in the sport’s most grueling test, Champagne is sprayed generously on the pitch by the victors, who make sure to swallow a spray or two. Indianapolis 500 This storied race is full of traditions, none more curious than the winner drinking from a bottle of milk in Victory Lane. However, with a friendly BYO policy at Indianapolis Motor Speedway— just leave the glass bottles at home—that’s definitely not what fans are imbibing. The Masters The Champions Dinner on the Tuesday evening before the tournament involves all living winners of the prestigious Green Jacket, with the most recent champ choosing the night’s menu. South African wines, Canadian beer, Bordeaux and cigars have all been in the mix. Stanley Cup The 1896 Winnipeg Victorias are credited…

98 Williams Selyem 2013 Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir ( Sonoma Coast ). There is something ethereal and beyond words about this wine, a full-bodied but never intrusive expression of spicy cinnamon, black pepper and wild pine that makes it a puzzle worth trying to solve. Fruit plays a part, though softly, eking out shadows of raspberry and just-picked strawberry atop smooth, silky tannins and a measured, seductive body. The finish recalls a clove cigarette enjoyed in the rain. Editors’ Choice. — V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $75 97 Williams Selyem 2013 Rochioli Riverblock Vineyard Pinot Noir ( Russian River Valley ). Expressive in oak, earth and clove with cinnamoncola, this savory, complex wine is also impressive in its ability to offer crisp and focused lines of citrus and fresh-picked raspberry. It…

FINO 93 González Byass NV Fino Tres Palmas Sherry. Gold in color and ideal on the nose courtesy of alluring walnut, nutmeg and briny aromas, this elevated fino is both crisp as well as viscous. Flavors of almond skins, saline and dried apricot finish with purity and supreme confidence. This is fino taken to the next level. Vin Divino. — M.S. abv: 16% Price: $74 / 500 ml 92 González Byass NV Fino Dos Palmas Sherry. Intense, well-directed aromas are staunch, woody and suggest turpentine before pulling back. A lemony palate is loaded with citric acidity, which creates an electric mouthfeel. Nutty, citric and zesty on the finish, this is a superb artisan fino with a high level of complexity. Vin Divino. — M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $45 / 500…

WHITE WINES SANCERRE 96 Domaine Vacheron 2014 L’Enclos des Remparts ( Vin de France). This is the third vintage of a wine from a single parcel of ungrafted vines, produced in a walled vineyard within the ruins of the Sancerre city walls. The vines are a selection from the family’s Les Romains vineyard. It cannot be labeled Sancerre because of the experimental methods used in its production. The wine is young, needing to age to develop its concentrated fruits and rich apple and apricot flavors. Tight and tense at this stage, it will develop slowly. Drink this rare wine from 2019. Domaine Vacheron. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA 95 Domaine Vacheron 2014 Les Romains ( Sancerre). Named in honor of the Romans who first planted vines in…

WHITE WINES 89 Vinkara 2012 Reserve Narince ( Ankara ). Light gold to the eye, this wine features a bouquet of pineapple, chopped parsley and baking bread. It is full on the palate, blending Seckel pear, Granny Smith apple and fresh mint. It is cooling in the throat, and the lingering finish offers a wave of bright acidity. Fine Terroirs LLC. — M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 87 Paşaeli 2014 Yapincak ( Thrace ). Mediumstraw colored in the glass, this has a soft bouquet of guava and pineapple. It is slightly stiff at first, but tropical fruit flavors of guava and passion fruit with touches of lemon curd quickly wash across the palate. The citrus-laced finish offers long-lasting floral notes. Vinorai LLC. — M.D. abv: 12% Price: $NA 87 Turasan…

SYRAH 90 Cinder 2013 Syrah ( Snake River Valley). This wine displays assorted aromas of berry, plum, licorice, raspberry and smoked meat, searching for a bit more clarity but still providing plenty of intrigue. It’s soft and sumptuous in feel with a pleasing texture and a tart finish. — S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 90 Telaya 2013 Syrah ( Snake River Valley). The aromas of earth, char and dark berries are alluring. The flavors are rich but never lose their deftness. — S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 89 Colter’s Creek 2013 Syrah ( Snake River Valley ). Brambly aromas mix with notes of herbs, red cherry, coffee and sweet barrel spices. The flavors are full bodied and high octane. It teeters at times but pulls the balance back together nicely.…

Tequila tends to get a lot of attention in May, when Cinco de Mayo encourages Margarita-fueled revelry. Although blanco Tequila is the bottle most often reached for to mix drinks, a growing number of agave connoisseurs are pouring añejo Tequila instead. In order to be called anejo, the agave-based spirit needs to be aged for longer than a year. That said, most producers go the extra mile, often aging from 18 months to as long as three years. And don’t forget extra anejo Tequilas, the most rare and (usually) expensive bottlings, aged for longer than three years. This is a relatively new category, established in 2006 by the Consejo Regulador del Tequila—the Mexican agency that regulates Tequila production. All that barrel time under the watchful eyes of maestros tequilieros yields…

As an oft-anxious person, nothing amplifies my self-doubt more than blind tasting. Two situations illustrate how my overactive brain got in the way of my palate. The first took place late one night in a Seattle restaurant. A host of sommeliers (including one of the world’s most famous, Rajat Parr), winemakers and local wine personalities were gathered around a large table. Each brought a mystery wine and passed it around, then passed judgment as to what each bottle might be. As the conversation devolved into macho posturing, I tuned out, waiting for my wine to run the gauntlet. I snapped out of my funk, however, when I tasted a wine that was very interesting. Everyone was guessing it was a top-shelf Bordeaux. I thought it was an old-school Napa Cabernet,…