Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2015 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

TUNA CARPACCIO 1 dozen quail eggs 8 ounces sushi-quality tuna steak, 1-inch thick 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ pound haricot verts (or thin green beans) ½ cup black olives (preferably Ligurian), pitted and halved 2 tablespoons capers 1 dozen cherry tomatoes, halved 1 stalk celery, trimmed, peeled and sliced thin Boil quail eggs for 5 minutes. Shell and quarter eggs, and set aside. Slice tuna steak horizontally into 4 equal portions, one quarter-inch thick. Place tuna slices individually between layers of plastic wrap, and gently flatten with meat tenderizer or mallet into round disks about 6 inches in diameter. Remove wrap, and lay tuna disks facedown on plate. Whisk together olive oil and lemon juice. Add salt to taste and set aside. Bring…

Central Otago When Rolfe Mills first planted vines alongside Lake Wanaka in 1975, he was inspired by Portugal and its schist slopes, not Burgundy. Forty years later, his son, Nick, is a Burgundy fanatic, and Rippon’s biodynamic Pinot Noirs are among Central Otago’s best For decades—and not just in Central Otago— Burgundy has been the goal, the ultimate measuring stick for Pinot Noir producers. So it was with some trepidation that the organizers of the annual Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration omitted a Burgundy session this year. I found that not bearing the burden of comparison was a welcome sign of the region’s maturity. It signifies a coming of age, recognition that Central Otago wines need not be compared to an Old World ideal, but instead celebrated for what they…

Awesome alternatives In a white wine kingdom ruled by Queen Chardonnay and Princess Sauvignon Blanc, California winemakers are increasingly rocking the royal court by opting for alternative varietals. While it’s unlikely these usurpers will dethrone the historic and deeply entrenched ruling class any time soon, there’s tremendous energy to this rebellion, which will continue to surge so long as winemakers keep focused on improving quality and consumers keep their palates open. The Central Coast’s myriad microclimates make the region a hotbed of this exploratory trend. The most common alternative tends to be grapes from the Rhône Valley region of France; Viognier was heralded a decade ago as Chardonnay replacement, but Roussanne is rising in popularity, as is Grenache Blanc, whose plantings have grown exponentially in recent years. Also relatively common…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 93 Concha y Toro 2011 Don Melchor Puente Alto Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ( Puente Alto ). As per usual, Don Melchor is singing a pretty tune. Deep, dense aromas of floral berry fruits and tarry darkness are solid and complete. Pure, elegant and confident across the palate, this delivers firm cassis, plum and cherry flavors backed by a toasty finish accented by licorice. This is rich and brawny but not heavy; drink through 2023. Excelsior Wines . — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 125 93 Enclave 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Maipo Valley ). This is a stately Cabernet housing classic Chilean aromas of spicy, berry fruits mixed with earth notes. It’s supremely fresh on the palate, with layers of briar fruit and integrated oak. Baked berry, hard spice…

CAHORS 96 Château du Cèdre 2012 GC ( Cahors ). While this is the top wine of a major Cahors estate, it is impressive how restrained it is. Sure, the wood and dense brooding black fruits are there, but they have been subtly controlled by the freshness of the wine and its great balance. With its richness, still youthful fruit and its structure it will need aging. Drink from 2020. Martine’s Wines . Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 120 95 Château du Cèdre 2012 Le Cèdre ( Cahors ). One of the special cuvées from du Cèdre, this impressive wine combines intense black fruit freshness with a powerful structure. It is full of cidity, ripe fruits and a core that is immense. It deserves considerable aging and…

VALTELLINA SUPERIORE 91 Caven 2008 Inferno Al Carmine ( Valtellina Superiore ). A Nebbiolo from the steep vineyards of Valtellina, this opens with aromas of crushed violets, perfumed berry, flint and a whiff of Alpine herbs. The bright palate delivers crushed sour cherries, juicy raspberries, grilled sage, tobacco and a hint of vanilla alongside racy acidity and polished tannins. Enjoy through 2020. Masciarelli Wine Co . — K.O. abv: 13% Price: $ 29 91 Rainoldi 2009 Sassella Riserva ( Valtellina Superiore). Aromas of crushed violet, dried rose petal, underbrush, ripe berry and a balsamic note lead the nose on this classically craft ed Nebbiolo. The firm palate delivers dried black cherries, raspberries, licorice, clove, mint and tobacco alongside assertive but polished tannins and bright acidity. It’s still young so let…

“Tip of the day: superb modern tapas in #Madrid at Arzábal near Parque Retiro. Anyone going should hit this place with gusto.” @WINESCHACH, CONTRIBUTING EDITOR “NYC: Those restaurants that are highly rated but somehow underrated? @Perla_NYC is that. Amazing pastas in particular (& usu good music).” @NILSBERNSTEIN, CONTRIBUTING FOOD EDITOR “Great #vegan breakfast in @GoSantaMonica @SwingersDiner #travel #sundaybrunch.” @LEXISIPS, CONTRIBUTING TRAVEL EDITOR “Simply Southern... BK's Best Fried Chix + Dixie Beer at Wilma Jean.” @MADUP, DEPUTY EDITOR “Colorado lamb with Stella di Campalto ’07 Brunello at Allred’s Restaurant @Telluride.” @WORLDWINEGUYS, CONTRIBUTING LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING EDITORS Follow us @WineEnthusiast…

SCREAMING EAGLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON Beware when your somm tells you this Napa Valley cult pioneer costs “thirty-seven fifty.” There is no decimal point. Bobby Flay Steak, Atlantic City; $3,750 SINE QUA NON MIDNIGHT OIL SYRAH There’s a five-year wait to even have a shot at buying these namesake wines, like this 2001 Central Coast winner. The French Laundry, Yountville, CA; $1,600 MARTINELLI JACKASS HILL ZINFANDEL Jackass Hill is said to be the steepest nonterraced vineyard in Sonoma County, one that only a “jackass” would farm. Turns out, the tricky tilling was a genius idea. The Standard, New York City; $150 HARLAN ESTATE RED BLEND In 1996, Bill Harlan famously set out “to produce a California ‘First Growth’ from the hills of Oakville.” His 40 acres of vines allow him to…

So, you must really love apples, huh? Living among apple trees has been a dream of mine ever since I was a child. In fact, my first utterance as a baby was “apple.” Did you work at a winery or brewery before making cider? I came to the area nine years ago— not as a farmer or landowner—but after 25 years as a painter living in Brooklyn. Initially, I didn’t have the money to buy land, so I sacrificed that freedom for a full-time job as an architect. Eventually, my wife and I saved enough to buy an old homestead farm overlooking the Shawangunk Mountains on the western rim of the Hudson Valley. What apples do you use? The fruit I use is from wild, uncultivated trees which have been…

While collectors extol the virtues of the world’s greatest wines in their twilight (well-cellared) years, most Americans can’t seem to wait more than 10 minutes aft er buying wines to crack them open, still white wines especially. Why do we do this? Well, because many still whites are superb when enjoyed young. Perky, clean Vinho Verde, Txakoli or Pinot Grigio; chalky, fresh Chablis; zesty Albariño . . . their vibrancy and focus is much of what makes them so appealing. But many of these whites deserve a place in the cellar, too. Wines like white Rioja, German Riesling, Australian Semillon, white Burgundy and certainly the quirky but character-laden wines of the Jura reveal layers of complexity with decades of aging. The acidity in these wines means that along with those…

PINOT GRIS 93 Archery Summit 2013 Ab Ovo Pinot Gris ( Dundee Hills ). This wine is rich and expressive, with the grip and texture of a fine Chardonnay— but it’s Pinot Gris. Roughly half was fermented in a concrete egg; the rest in stainless steel and one new acacia barrel. The fruit is fleshy but not fat, crisply defined with exceptional phenolic details of citrus skin. The underlying minerality further frames the ripe, tangy fruit, and the three-dimensional flavors expand and extend through a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. — P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 48 92 Francis Tannahill 2012 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Pinot Gris ( Dundee Hills ). Sadly, this is the last vintage for this single-vineyard Pinot Gris. Oaky, spicy, buttery and rich, its mouthfilling flavors conjure up thoughts…

DOURO 94 Quinta da Romaneira 2010 Reserva ( Douro ). Released aft er the 2011 vintage, this elegant wine has great presence. A blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, if off ers vibrant, structured fruit while still reserving its full glory for several more years. Ripe fruits blend with intense acidity at the end. Drink from 2017. Vision Wine & Spirits . Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 80 94 Quinta dos Aciprestes 2011 Grande Reserva ( Douro ). For full review see page 99. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $ 60 93 Quinta das Carvalhas 2012 Carvalhas Vinhas Velhas ( Douro ). For full review see page 101. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $ 60 92 Quinta da Romaneira 2012 Touriga Nacional ( Douro ). The…

CONDRIEU 94 E. Guigal 2012 La Doriane ( Condrieu). This seems a tad more restrained than usual for La Doriane, which has typically been extremely lush and exotic in the past. The 2012 isn’t as over the top, but still shows plenty of ripe apricot and tropical fruit framed by smoky oak and baking spices. The finish is long and mouthwatering, suggesting at least a few years of longevity. Vintus LLC . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 132 94 Maison Nicolas Perrin 2012 Condrieu . For full review see page 99. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 71 93 Les Vins de Vienne 2012 La Chambée ( Condrieu ). This luxury bottling spends nine months in barrel, yet shows little overt oak. It’s full, ripe and opulent without going…

RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS 93 Domdechant Werner 2013 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken GG Erste Lage ( Rheingau ). While dry in style, this eff usively blossomy, peach-driven Riesling is chock full of ripe, honeyed fruit flavors. Soft tangerine acidity cuts through the lushness on the midpalate, aided by a sheen of minerals and bristling white-tea tannins. Slocum & Sons, Inc . Editors’ Choice. — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 57 93 Domdechant Werner 2012 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken GG Erste Lage ( Rheingau ). The nose of this light-footed Riesling is demure, showing whiff s of lemon and crushed stone. Yet on the palate, preserved rose petal and cherry blossom notes seem to explode, mingling into crisp grapefruit and honeydew flavors. Eff usive yet elegant, it’s a stunning dry Riesling with…

Crisp, cool and fragrant, the number of gins on the shelves has multiplied like crazy in recent years. Blame the classic cocktail renaissance: We can’t seem to get enough martinis, aviations and corpse revivers, and we’ve soaked up plenty of classic-style gins as a result. So what’s diff erent this time around? In addition to newcomers made in the traditional London Dry style (Portobello Road, Sipsmith, the recently reintroduced old-school Boodles British Gin), the latest crop of gins shows off more individual flair than ever before. Most of the latest crop of gins, which includes quite a few from craft distillers, play up unusual botanicals infused into the base spirit, building on the “New Western” gins that flaunt Pacific Northwest-sourced botanicals. Where that movement started a few years ago, others…

Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines pale as “deficient in color or intensity of color, not bright or brilliant, feeble, faint or deficient in chroma.” Synonyms include dull, faded, light and washed-out. Pair that with the word “ale”, and innocent drinkers are apt to assume that the resulting product is a light, soft , easy-drinking selection of little intensity, complexity or character. For many pale ales, nothing could be further from the truth. They cover a wide spectrum of colors, ranging from light gold to medium copper and all shades in between. And while they may not have the over-the-top character of their IPA brethren, pale ales are by no means lacking in flavor or distinction. American versions typically have prominent fruity, floral and citrusy hop characteristics of varying intensity and vividly express…

WHERE TO FIND BARREL-AGED SPECS: + Wine and whiskey oak options; woodzie.com + Sherry oak options; pantaicompany.com…

TOMMY’S MARGARITA 2 lime wedges Coarse kosher salt, for garnish 1 2⁄3 ounces reposado Tequila (100% agave) ¾ ounces freshly squeezed lime juice ¾ ounce agave syrup 1–2 cups of ice Rub a lime wedge around the rim of the glass, then roll the rim in a saucer of coarse salt. Set in the freezer to chill. In a blender, add liquid ingredients and ice. Blend on highest setting until smooth and pour into the prepared glass. Garnish with a lime wedge. AGING BEAUTIFULLY Tequila makers are discovering the powers of the barrel. Spending time in oak makes this agave liquor smoother, mellower and fuller in body, adding expected notes of toast and almond, but also citrus and tropical fruit tones. Here are three to try. Patrón Extra Añejo Aged…

Like the wine world, the restaurant scene continues to evolve, and has never been more invigorating. Fine dining has become less formal, customers are more intrepid and discerning, and far-flung regions of the country now host world-class wine and food experiences. This is what our annual 100 Best Wine Restaurants list reveals. We didn’t just choose restaurants with the longest, deepest or trendiest wine lists, but places where wine is as integral worldclass fare. Enjoy! We’ve mapped out our favorite 100 wine-savvy restaurants across the country, creating your go-to list for dining and drinking for the next year. Our list is packed with interviews with star sommeliers and chefs, essential pairing picks and top dining trends that are changing the way we eat and drink as a nation. 610 Magnolia…

RIOJA 96 CVNE 2010 Real de Asúa ( Rioja). The best of CVNE’s impressive lineup of 2010 high-end Riojas is this pure, staunch, ripe stud that’s blasting with blackberry, woodspice, leather and cedar aromas. Lush, layered and deep as an ocean trench, this ultraripe, expressive wine pumps out blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavors prior to a lush, mile-long finish. Amazingly pure and delicious; drink through 2025. Europvin USA . Cellar Selection. — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 100 95 CVNE 2010 Pagos de Viña Real ( Rioja ). CVNE’s top wines from 2010 are outstanding across the board. This sun-baked wine is bursting with black cherry, blackberry, spice, vanilla and cedary aromas. A tight, exact and fresh palate blends richness and balance, while ripe blackberry, cassis and black pepper flavors…

SANGIOVESE 95 Michele Satta 2008 Cavaliere Sangiovese ( Toscana). Blue flowers, wild berries, leather, dried herb and tilled soil are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this stunning wine, along with a balsamic note. Made entirely with Sangiovese, the smooth, structured palate delivers layers of black cherries, crushed raspberries, white pepper, clove, dried mint and sage inside a framework of velvety tannins. A tobacco note tops off the lingering finish. Enjoy through 2020. Banville Wine Merchants . — K.O. abv: 13% Price: $ 75 93 Mazzei 2011 Mix36 Sangiovese ( Toscana). This bright, structured Sangiovese opens with aromas of blue flowers, tilled earth, red and black berries. The savory, silky palate doles out juicy wild cherry, crushed raspberry, clove and licorice alongside supple but chewy tannins. Drink through…

ASSYRTICO 90 Athiná 2012 Assyrtico ( Santorini). This fullbodied Assyrtico off ers aromas of pineapple, citrus and spice on the nose, while the palate brings layers of fruit, minerals and lemon. Delicious with a good acidity, imagine this white with grilled chicken or fish. VOS Selections . — S.K. abv: 14% Price: $ 19 89 Boutari 2013 Assyrtiko ( Santorini). Bright aromas of citrus and tropical fruit give this easygoing white an easy appeal. Balanced and fresh, it’s an elegant wine that will pair well with grilled fish and salads. Terlato Wines International . — S.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 21 89 Moraitis 2011 Assyrtiko ( Santorini). This is a balanced, peppy Assyrtiko with sea salt freshness, crisp white and tropical fruit and a clean finish. A great go-to food…

Talking over a glass of Urla’s local red hardly felt like a criminal act. We dined on the threshold of a moonlit night, our table straddling the open-air frontage of the restaurant and its sof ly lit interior. A hundred yards away, sailboats rocked to and fro in the harbor. Oðuz Özer, the owner of Yengeç restaurant, cradled colorful bowls of meze to our table, one after another. These Turkish appetizers included garlic steeped in a sticky-sweet pomegranate syrup and the country’s traditional creamy eggplant dip. I struggled to order modestly from the 100 (yes, really) options displayed in glass near the back of the seaside eatery in Urla. In addition to meze, Özer turned out superlative seafood plucked daily from the Aegean Sea. Flame-kissed shrimp and grilled f sh,…