Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2015 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Summer is an energetic season for entertaining around our house, and, not surprisingly, wine is usually center stage. Whether sitting by the pool or setting up a table in our vineyard garden, we love sharing wines from our cellar with friends alfresco. Over the last several years, we’ve made the parties more interactive by hosting a combination cook-of /potluck by our pool. Couples bring the flxings for their favorite dishes to cook on our grills, then we all dig in and vote on the winner. We set bottles out on the table so guests can experiment with different wine-food pairings, and we often open some large format bottles for the group as well. It’s all about having fun together and enjoying wine and food under the stars. We of en…

SOUTH WALTON BEACHES WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL MIRAMAR BEACH, FLORIDA Gulf Coast vinophiles indulged in grand tastings, food pairings, seminars and a wine auction during the Wine Enthusiastsponsored fest at the Grand Boulevard at Sandestin. All proceeds supported the Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation. WORLD OF PINOT NOIR SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA Pinot Noir producers from around the globe gathered on the Central Coast to delve into the variety at Bacara Resort & Spa through umami pairing and Burgundy seminars, capped off with a 15th Crystal Anniversary Dinner. WE Food Editor Nils Bernstein VINITALY & WINE ENTHUSIAST PARTY VERONA, ITALY Nearly 150,000 wine aficionados from five continents descended on Veronafiere to partake in an engaging roster of discussions, workshops and tastings at the 49th annual international buying and wine business exhibition.…

Boxwood Estate Winery Middleburg, VA Showing films from the Middleburg Film Festival (Oct. 22–25) Early Mountain Vineyards Madison, VA Films shown on the last Thursday of every month Ram’s Gate Winery Sonoma, CA Pairing classic films with wine on Oct. 29 & Nov. 19 Veramar Vineyard Berryville, VA, June 19: Searching for Sugar Man Wente Vineyards, Livermore, CA Aug. 7: Frozen, Aug. 21: Big Hero 6, Sept 11: Pitch Perfect One Woman Wines & Vineyards, > Southold, NY Films shown every Saturday through Oct. 10…

< TWO GOATS BREWING Hector, NY The brewpub’s perfect (and sole) pairing, a slow-cooked roast beef sandwich and the house IPA, is even more delicious while enjoying the postcard-worthy view of Seneca Lake. SINOR-LAVALLEE WINES Avila Beach, CA This new beachside tasting room boasts killer sunset views and, of course, Mike Sinor’s tasty wines. Be sure to try the Pinot Noir if he has any on hand. It’s a local favorite. < THREE SIXTY St. Louis Pair game-day cravings like sliders and pizza with a bird’s eye view of Busch Stadium from this roof op bar atop the Hilton St. Louis at the Ballpark. Wash it all down with one of 50-plus wines by the bottle.…

BRAAI BASICS These tips will ensure you master your braai domain from the start. A bigger fire does not equal better. It’ll likely just torch the meat, drying up juices and cooking it too fast for any subtle smoky flavors to develop. Much like barbecue in the U.S., braai (rhymes with fry) in South Africa is something akin to religion. It’s not just about what you braai, it’s about how you braai, when you braai, where you braai and with whom you braai. It’s a social event that gathers people around a f re to watch, smell and share a meal. It’s a place to eat, drink and tell stories for hours. A braai of en includes many different types of meat prepared over an open wood f re. Chops,…

MALBEC 92 Zuccardi 2012 Finca Piedra Infinita Malbec ( Mendoza ). This fruit-driven, minerally Malbec hails from the Altamira section of Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Blueberry, cassis and stony aromas feed into a deep, pure palate with plenty to offer. Flavors of cassis, blackberry, peppercorn and exotic spices finish with moderate tannins and flavors of f g and black pepper. Drink through 2019. Winesellers Ltd . — M.S. abv: 15% Price: $ 120 91 Altos Las Hormigas 2012 Appellation Malbec ( Vista Flores ). This Malbec from the Vista Flores zone of the Uco Valley falls outside the box. An exotic bouquet comprised of blueberry, Graham cracker, citrus peel and cardamom aromas stirs interest, while a jammy palate deals blueberry, baking spice, Middle Eastern spice and blackened flavors. This is extracted…

CHARDONNAY 89 Linden 2012 Hardscrabble Chardonnay ( Virginia ). Refined and delicate on the nose, this offers aromas of white flowers and wet stone. Medium-bodied, with a silky palate, it presents flavors of tart pineapple, lemon rind and struck H int. A playfully textured lemon-custard note adds length to the finish. Drink through 2018. — A.P. abv: 13.1% Price: $ 38 88 Early Mountain 2013 Reserve Chardonnay ( Virginia ). Brûléed banana and peach lead the aromatics and flavors of this French oak-aged Chardonnay blended with 15% Petit Manseng. A rich, creamy palate is balanced by a tart pineapple and lemon-curd vein, moving to a toasted vanilla finish. — A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 38 88 Michael Shaps 2013 Wild Meadow Vineyard Chardonnay ( Virginia ). Roasted hazelnut with grilled…

COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE 91 Château Vignelaure 2014 Rosé ( Coteaux d’Aixen-Provence). This rich and impressive wine has structure and a firm texture, partly from the Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend (45% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon). It is dense and full of juicy red fruits, caramel and delicious spice. Production is only 2,500 cases. It would be worth aging for a few more months, so drink from late 2015. MacArthur Beverages . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 20 91 Domaine de Valdition 2014 Vallon des Anges Rosé ( Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). From organic grapes in a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is rich and ripe. Generous red fruits are cut with light acidity and broadened by the smooth, creamy texture. The fruit lasts right through…

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Woodinville, WA Gregg Allman (July 3); Frankie Valli & the Four Seasons (Sept. 3) City Winery, New York City The Bacon Brothers (June 22) Gundlach Bundschu, Sonoma, CA Huichica music, food and wine festival (June 12–13) The Mountain Winery, Saratoga, CA The Roots (June 28); Blondie (July 24) Robert Mondavi Winery, Oakville, CA The Wallflowers (July 4); Melissa Etheridge (July 25) Vina Robles Winery, Paso Robles, CA Third Eye Blind & Dashboard Confessional (July 17); Ringo Starr (Oct. 2) Wente Vineyards, Livermore, CA > Sheryl Crow (Aug. 3); Colbie Caillat & Christina Perri (Aug. 26); Smokey Robinson (Sept. 3)…

INDUSTRY INTEL Tales from the Front of the House: Restaurant Manners, Misbehaviors & Secrets, JEFF BENJAMIN The managing partner of Philadelphia’s acclaimed Vetri Family restaurants pulls back the curtain on the service world. ARTIST IN RESIDENCE Dinner with Jackson Pollock,ROBYN LEA Step inside the everyday life of the famed Long Islandbased painter and his wife, Lee Krasner, through a thoughtfully researched tome of rustic local recipes, stunning food photography and old family snapshots. BOOZE BIBLE Distilled, JOEL HARRISON & NEIL RIDLEY A comprehensive guide on home bar must-haves from absinthe to vodka, sprinkled with insights from industry luminaries and innovative recipes.…

< J PARKER AT HOTEL LINCOLN Chicago Take in sweeping views of Lake Michigan from the 140 outdoor seats while nibbling on pulled pork okonomiyaki and beef shank chili and sipping an Off Minor: Pimm’s #1, Bombay Gin and hibiscus. WISCONSIN UNION Madison, WI Believe it or not, one of the Midwest’s best outdoor haunts is the terrace at the University of Wisconsin student union, which overlooks Lake Mendota. Make like a coed and order a brat and one of 96 beers on tap. < THE CROW’S NEST Montauk, NY One of Long Island’s best views of the Atlantic is found in this laidback surfing town. Opt for a white blend, rosé or Cabernet Franc from local favorite Wölffer Estate Vineyard. DELACHAISE New Orleans Overlooking mansion-lined St. Charles Avenue, this…

When New Zealand wines first made waves in the United States, Sauvignon Blanc was the source of all the commotion. It’s still the country’s most abundant grape variety by far, making up approximately 70 percent of the latest harvest. But interest in Pinot Noir has been growing steadily over the past decade or so, driven by an interest on the part of the wine trade in diversification, by worldwide demand and by the passion of many of the individual producers. New Zealand even boasts two regular events centered around the variety: The Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration, held annually in Queenstown, and the larger Pinot Noir NZ conference, which is held every three or four years in the nation’s capital city of Wellington. Both should be on the bucket list…

MALBEC 93 àMaurice 2011 Gamache Vineyard Malbec ( Columbia Valley ). While this wine starts out a bit reductive, it subsequently explodes with aromas of dried herbs and generous amounts of black pepper. It’s palate-coating and mesmerizing in feel, showing a dazzling sense of texture, lightness and richness. Editors’ Choice. — S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $ 35 92 àMaurice 2010 Amparo Estate Malbec ( Walla Walla Valley ). This winery has shown a knack with Malbec and it continues on its young estate project. Aromas of herbs, tobacco, red plum and clove are fresh and appealing. The palate is lush, textured, concentrated and flavorful with a spicefilled finish that keeps you coming back for more. Expect this wine to drink well through 2030. Cellar Selection. — S.S. abv: 13.7% Price:…

CHARDONNAY 90 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2012 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ( Finger Lakes ). Richness and elegance go toe-to-toe in this creamy yet crisp, fruity Chardonnay. It’s lavishly textured, enriched by streaks of butter and cream, yet pristine apple and pear flavors shine through brightly. The caramel-kissed finish lingers. — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 20 89 Brooklyn Winery 2013 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ( Finger Lakes). Delicate whiffs of toast, butterscotch and smoke meander from nose to palate in this remarkably focused, elegant wine. Lime and pear flavors are vivacious and bright, meandering long on the finish. — A.I. abv: 11.9% Price: $ 22 89 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay ( Finger Lakes ). Green melon, lime and lemon flavors ring fresh and pure in this unoaked Chardonnay. It’s anchored…

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THE HOST’S LITTLE HELPER The Craf Cocktail Party: Delicious Drinks for Every Occasion, JULIE REINER Master mixologist Julie Reiner of New York City’s Clover Club and Flatiron Lounge shares some of her most tantalizing tipples, like the Hanalei Sun (pineappleinfused vodka or white rum). COLLECTOR’S PIECE The Original Grand Crus of Burgundy, CHARLES CURTIS, MW Translated texts spanning two centuries of oenophiles weigh in on Burgundy’s hierarchical system. An interesting read to discover hidden gems. FEAST FIRST Food52 Genius Recipes, KRISTEN MIGLORE This gorgeous collection of revolutionary recipes and techniques is certain to rest open on your kitchen counter. A cookbook to enlighten the home cook from one of the leaders in the online food publishing game. THE BEACH READ Eight Hundred Grapes, LAURA DAVE This novel’s hero…

< SCRIBE WINERY Sonoma, CA The charmingly worn hacienda is the just the spot to indulge in Scribe’s cult-favorite wines like the Pinot Noir rosé, perched atop a grassy knoll overlooking the lush vineyards. ROOFTOP PERCH AT THE CANARY HOTEL Santa Barbara, CA Soak in the sun, red-tile roofs and Santa Ynez Mountains as you tip into the Santa Barbara-heavy wine list here, including the 2012 Zaca Mesa Viognier and 2012 Stolpman Grenache. JIMMY AT THE JAMES HOTEL New York City Eighteen stories above Soho, mixologist Johnny Swet cranks out cocktails like the Legal in Vermont, made with whiskey, maple syrup and purple basil. The posh roof op lounge offers views of the East River bridges. TRUMP WINERY Charlottesville, VA Virginia’s largest winery is also one of its most picturesque:…

As Galileo reputedly said, “Wine is sunlight, held together by water.” So there’s real reason to worry about the severe California drought that’s creeping through its fourth blistering summer. But before the fear of desiccated grapes and dead vines prompt you to buy up the entire 2014 vintage, remember that grapevines are nowhere near as thirsty as the broccoli, almonds or cattle that the Golden State exports to the rest of the country. Indeed, for those grape growers focused on the higher quality afforded by lower yields, restricting irrigation is a tried-and-true tool, and dry-farming is a viable reality for vineyards in certain corners of the state, from Westside Paso Robles to the Napa Valley. According to Jeff Newton, whose company, Coastal Vineyard Care Associates, farms about 2,000 acres across…

Sip 47, Oregon Winding through the heart of the Northern Willamette Valley, Route 47 is sometimes called Oregon’s “road less traveled” wine route (translation: fewer tasting rooms overcrowded with tourists). A drive along Sip 47 takes visitors past rolling, vine-covered hills and bucolic farms, with 17 outstanding stops along a clearly marked route. WHERE TO STAY Opt for a night at the quirky A McMenamins Grand Lodge in Forest Grove. The Europeanstyle accommodations mean shared bathrooms, but the former Masonic property offers 77 guest rooms, lively restaurants and pubs, a day spa and conversation-sparking local art. After sampling a few of McMenamins’s own brews, play disc golf on the hotel’s expansive lawn. WHERE TO EAT At rustic B The One Horse Tavern, feast on country roadhouse fare that includes 13…

What makes an ideal summer cocktail? In short, it should be cool, crisp and refreshing. Since that sums up vodka perfectly, no wonder it’s a base for so many summertime sippers. Vodka’s versatility lends itself to cocktails made using seasonal fruit like strawberries and blackberries, or freshly picked herbs like basil, highlighting rather than hiding those vibrant colors and flavors. It also plays well with the refreshing bubbles found in Prosecco and ginger beer. These light, bright sips are perfect for alfresco entertaining. Serve them poolside, at patio parties or when picnicking with friends. Russian Spring Punch Recipe courtesy Masa Urushido and Maxime Belfand, head bartenders, Saxon + Parole, New York City Adapted from a recipe by famed London mixologist Dick Bradsell, this bubbly single-portion punch can easily be scaled…

CHARDONNAY 91 De Wetshof 2013 Lesca Chardonnay ( Robertson ). This is a young, fresh and very attractive Chardonnay, brimming with aromas and flavors of wood-grilled apple, honeydew, Honeycomb cereal, buttered popcorn and toasted oak. The palate is round and full, yet with ample acidity, citrus flavor and a mineral streak that all provides lift and character to the close. Drink 2016–2020. Broadbent Selections, Inc . — L.B. abv: 14% Price: $ NA 90 De Wetshof 2013 Limestone Hill Estate Chardonnay ( Robertson ). Dainty aromas of hay, toasted red-apple skin, orange blossom and citrus rind dance in the bouquet of this wine. The medium-weight palate offers clean fruit flavors of pear and apple flesh, with a subtle mineral streak. Soft sweet-spice accents unfold on the medium-length finish. Drink now–2017.…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 91 Bodkin 2014 Musqué Clone Sauvignon Blanc ( Russian River Valley ). For full review see page 91. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 24 91 Dutton Estate 2013 Cohen Vineyard Dutton Ranch Sauvignon Blanc ( Russian River Valley ). Floral and herbal from the get-go, this medium-bodied white from a great vineyard offers a lot to like. Stainless-steel fermentation gives it a lean underbelly, rounded out by sharp Meyer lemon and tangerine, buoyed by mouthwatering acidity. Green apple and an accent of honey peak on the finish. Editors’ Choice. — V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 23 90 Angeline 2014 Sauvignon Blanc ( Russian River Valley ). For full review see page 93. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 16 90 Atalon 2013 Sauvignon Blanc ( Napa Valley ). Tingling lemon and…

GRÜNER VELTLINER 96 Emmerich Knoll 2012 Ried Loibenberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner ( Wachau ). Lusciously ripe, almost honeyed, pear fruit emanates from the glass. Underneath that is grapefruit zest and pith and a herbal, stony, earthy edge. The palate is rich and curvaceous but completely toned by a pervasive, lemony acidity that lends drive and linearity. This is already approachable, which is not to say that it doesn’t promise a lot of mileage: this will go on and unfold its facets of fruit. Immense charm almost plays over the fact that this is a very age-worthy wine, with a finish that’s almost endless. Drink from 2017. Circo Vino . Cellar Selection. — A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 92 96 F X Pichler 2013 Dürnsteiner Liebenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd ( Wachau…

CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 95 Castello di Ama 2010 San Lorenzo Gran Selezione ( Chianti Classico ). Impeccably balanced and extremely elegant, this opens with a multifaceted fragrance of perfumed berry, crushed blue flower, menthol, baking spice and just a hint of new leather. The graceful palate offers layers of succulent wild cherry, white pepper, licorice, mint and eucalyptus alongside firm, polished tannins and fresh acidity. It’s sleek and already tempting but hold for complexity. Drink 2016–2030. The Sorting Table . Editors’ Choice. — K.O. abv: NA Price: $ 52 95 Felsina 2010 Colonia Gran Selezione ( Chianti Classico ). Firmly structured but elegant, this offers aromas of blue flower, tobacco, tilled earth, black fruit and a balsamic note. The vibrant palate boasts wonderful intensity, weaving notes of white pepper,…

Everytime this category comes up for review, we seem to say that America’s whiskey makers keep surprising and enthralling with excellent new bottlings, in addition to classics that deserved to be poured time and time again. Craft distillers continue to lead the way with innovative new whiskeys from all corners of the country. For example, consider the growing category of American-made single malts—this may be the first time enough were available to fill out an entire flight. On the east coast, New York estate distillery Hillrock recently rolled out a peated single malt that’s well worth seeking out. But jump over to the west coast, and Washington State producer Westland Distillery has introduced three singletons, including a peated version and a mouthwatering sherry-finished variation. And in the middle of the…

I can’t believe it. After all these years as a wine rep, I’m going to sell wine to the—gasp— general public. I’m going to buy wine from people like me, then smile patiently while customers tell me they don’t like Riesling because it’s sweet. My crossover began a few months ago after I told a little white lie. I was pouring a small-production wine for one of my then-restaurant accounts. As my wine buyer swirled and sniffed, I told the story of this up-and-comer winemaker and his love of small, somewhat forgotten parcels of old vines in Northern California. “This is great. I love it,” said the buyer. “Think it will sell?” “Absolutely,” I boldly insisted, as if the wine would walk itself out the door. I did my job,…