Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2015 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH The blue drinks you know, or have wisely avoided, are often rum-based sugar bombs. But that’s changing fast, thanks to several top mixologists who really love to, well, work blue. New York City’s PDT has the Shark, a rich mix of buttered rum, pineapple juice, Frangelico and blue Curaçao topped with an ironic crown: a tiny paper umbrella. In San Francisco, Dirty Habit serves its Son of a Beach, an earthy blend of gin, f no Sherry and artisanal blue Curaçao that’s as complex as its name is an eye roller. But the blue ribbon goes to Gun Metal Blue, a drink at New York City’s Porchlight, the new bar backed by restaurateur Danny Meyer of Shake Shack fame. Created by Bartender Nick Bennett, imagine the…

PRIORAT 95 Clos Mogador 2012 Priorat . With its patented blend of ripe plum and berry aromas matched against notes of wood smoke, herbs and leather, this is ripped and focused in the mouth, with strong but manageable tannins. Flavors of buttery oak, schist, blackberry and cassis culminate with mocha, vanilla and an overall sense of greatness. Drink from 2017 through 2025. Europvin USA . Editors’ Choice. — M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $ 90 94 Clos Figueras 2010 Clos Figueres (Priorat). Reedy cherry and berry aromas are smoky and schisty, with a high level of purity and complexity. This wine is tannic but in great shape, with lockdown structure. Schisty plum, cassis, black cherry and cocoa flavors finish firm and mildly peppery tasting, with oodles of class and aging potential.…

JE NE SAIS QUOI Beyond its unique hue there’s something special about rosé—a quality you can’t see, smell or touch—that distinguishes it from other wine. Champagne, too, has an appeal that goes beyond what’s in the glass: celebration and elegance, but for some, perhaps an air of elitism. Rosé, on the other hand, feels like an invite to your best friend’s beach house—warm and familiar, with the promise of laughter and memories. Where does this come from? It took a week in rosé’s birthplace, Provence, with a group of wine writers, sommeliers and countless bottles of rosé for me to understand this joie de vivre. My pilgrimage began in Saint-Tropez, a place that epitomizes the lifestyle of southern France: Stylish and seductive, yet relaxed and approachable, much like the wine…

Grilling, South African Style The culture surrounding South African braai is serious stuff, like Southern BBQ or clam bakes in New England. Cape winemakers show how to recreate this relaxed, wine-driven experience at home. Russian River Valley’s “Neighborhoods” Our detailed look at the various subregions of this sprawling district, which celebrated 30 years as an official American Viticultural Area (AVA) last year, explores its location-driven nuances, and what to drink now. Chardonnays of the Pacific Northwest Numerous winemakers are putting their heads and hearts into the task of crafting Chardonnay as good as, or better than, the best from California. We reveal the top contenders and the best pours. Pinots in Paradise Outside of Burgundy, New Zealand is home to some of the world’s best Pinot Noirs. Learn how this…

Last fall, four out of five Catalan voters cast ballots to secede from Spain. While it may have rattled politicians in Madrid, it was a just straw poll, not an official referendum on independence. The Catalonian provinces of Barcelona, Tarragona, Lleida and Girona remain, at least for now, part of Spain. But in the same way that Catalans have a culture that differs greatly from their Castilian, Galician or Andalusian countrymen, Catalonian wines have little in common with those from the rest of Spain. Catalonia’s 10 denominated wine regions focus mostly on so-called Mediterranean grape varieties, primarily Garnacha and Carignan (also called Cariñena or Samsó) among red grapes, and Garnacha Blanca and Xarel-lo among white grapes. There is also Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Trepat planted throughout Catalonia, as…

France’s Loire Valley produces the greatest variety of wines of any wine region in the world. This month’s Buying Guide highlights just some of the region’s many white-wine styles, including the refreshing and bone-dry selections of Muscadet, luscious Chenin Blanc-based wines of Vouvray and, of course, pungent Sauvignon Blancs from the variety’s original homes of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Even in their amazing diversity, these wines do have some things in common. In a world that’s demanding light, fruity wines, these typically fit the bill perfectly. There’s rarely anything in excess in the Loire—crisp acidity is a stylish element in the whites, and overall balance is key, with alcohol levels that rarely exceed 13.5 percent. Perhaps as importantly, the wines reflect the natural and cultural landscapes. The Loire Valley is a…

ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO 92 Abbazia di Novacella 2013 Praepositus Kerner (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). This opens with alluring aromas of acacia, apricot, citrus and alpine herb. The linear, elegant palate offers juicy yellow peach, lemon zest, mint and hazelnut alongside crisp acidity. Abbazia di Novacella USA . Editors’ Choice. — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 25 92 Abbazia di Novacella 2012 Praepositus Veltliner (Alto Adige Valle Isarco ). Deep, golden yellow, this elegant but structured white offers aromas of fragrant white flower, alpine herb, mature pear and exotic fruit. The vibrant, spicy palate doles out crisp green apple, white peach, nectarine, lemon zest, white pepper and a ginger note. It’s balanced and fresh, with bright acidity and a long, mineral finish. Abbazia di Novacella USA . — K.O. abv:…

CHARDONNAY 94 Cullen 2012 Kevin John Chardonnay ( Margaret River ). Although Cullen’s latest red wines haven’t always impressed, the quality of the Chardonnay seems to go from great to even greater. This is plump enough to be appealing now, yet with a strong frame of acidity to hold it together for the next 10 or more years. Toasted nuts and fresh pineapple aromas and flavors are exotic upfront, while the lemony finish is long and mouthwatering. Old Bridge Cellars . Editors’ Choice. — J.C. abv: 13% Price: $ 109 92 Giant Steps 2012 Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay ( Yarra Valley ). For full review see page 81. abv: 13% Price: $ 42 92 Leeuwin Estate 2012 Prelude Vineyards Chardonnay ( Margaret River ). This is remarkably lush and full-bodied, yet…

CHARDONNAY 95 Ramey 2012 Platt Vineyard Chardonnay ( Sonoma Coast ). Not many producers get fruit from this magical vineyard, sought after for being cool, coastal and meticulously farmed. This wine speaks to all that, offering sublime Meyer lemon, pear and golden honey around a balanced soul and wild ginger-infused intensity. Editors’ Choice. — V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 65 94 Patz & Hall 2012 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay ( Carneros-Napa Valley ). For full review see page 77. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 60 94 Talbott 2012 Audrey Diamond T Vineyard Chardonnay ( Monterey ). There’s a reason this is one of the pricier white wines from the region. Aromas of yogurt and brie cheese are leveled by struck match, smoked grapefruit skins and sourdough. Vibrant lime pith and…

YOUR SUMMER WINE LIST 90 BYRON 2013 PINOT NOIR (SANTA BARBARA COUNTY) The palate has fun redfruit notes, as well as justserious-enough black tea and mocha flavors. 90 BOUVET-LADUBAY 2012 SAPHIR BRUT VINTAGE (SAUMUR) A Chenin and Chardonnay blend, full-bodied, with melon and peach flavors and crisp acidity. 90 MARTIN RAY 2014 ROSÉ OF PINOT NOIR (RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY) Aromas and flavors of wild strawberry and citrus, with crisp acids on the long finish. 91 JIM BARRY 2014 THE LODGE HILL DRY RIESLING (CLARE VALLEY) This dry, almost austere wine has pineapple, cardamom and cinnamon flavors and mouthwatering acids on the long finish. For full reviews— and hundreds more—turn to our Buying Guide on page 75. 91 LOOSEN BROS. NV DR. L SPARKLING RIESLING (GERMANY) An elegant sekt, with a…

HOME BAR RAISING Scotch and Sherry have been aged in spent wine barrels for centuries. Now, several New World distillers are using the flavored staves to finish their stiff stuff, which imparts subtle fruit and oak notes. Here are five of our favorites. DAD’S HAT PENNSYLVANIA RYE (FINISHED IN VERMOUTH BARRELS) This robust rye clocks three months in Quady Winery’s sweet vermouth casks, creating a distinctly ruddy hue, a lovely raisin aroma and rounded notes of honey-soaked dried fruit. Try it in a Manhattan; $50. WOODFORD RESERVE SONOMA-CUTRER FINISH The time in Pinot Noir barrels give this whiskey a rosy tinge and a surprising earthy flavor—a rarity in Kentucky Bourbon. Coconut and vanilla overlap with a touch of dark fruit on the finish; $100. DULCE VIDA EXTRA AÑEJO TEQUILA This…

Baldacci Family Vineyards 6236 Silverado Trail 707-944-9261 Open daily 10 AM–4 PM by appointment Chimney Rock 5350 Silverado Trail 800-257-2641 Open daily 10 AM–5 PM Cliff Lede Vineyards 1473 Yountville Cross Road 707-944-8642 Open daily 10 AM–4 PM Clos du Val 5330 Silverado Trail 707-261-5200 Open daily 10 AM–5 PM Hartwell Estate Vineyards 5795 Silverado Trail 707-255-4269 Open Monday 11 AM–4 PM and Tuesday– Saturday 10 AM–4 PM by appointment Odette Estate 5998 Silverado Trail 707-224-7533 Open daily 10:30 AM–4 PM by appointment Pine Ridge Vineyards 5901 Silverado Trail 800-575-9777 Open daily 10:30 AM–4:30 PM Regusci Winery 5584 Silverado Trail 707-254-0403 Open daily 10 AM–5 PM by appointment Robinson Family Vineyards 5880 Silverado Trail 707-944-8004 By appointment only Shafer 6154 Silverado Trail 707-944-2877 By appointment only Silverado Vineyards 6121 Silverado…

Rum is an obvious choice when it comes to warm-weather cocktails, but navigating the vast sea of excellent (and some not so great) offerings can be daunting. Thankfully, most gorgeous, brown sugar-brushed rums fit neatly into three styles: French, Spanish and English, or rhum, ron and rum, respectively. “Rum has such a vast spectrum of flavor, density, character and even color,” says Jef “Beachbum” Berry, owner of Latitude 29, a rum-centric, tiki-inspired bar and restaurant in New Orleans. Berry likens the “incredible diversity” of rum to wine. Just as a bold, fruity red is vastly different from a crisp, minerally white, “a rich black Jamaican punch rum is on the opposite end of the spectrum, compared to a dry, unaged white Cuban rum.” Some are ideal for sipping, while others…

VINHO VERDE 92 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Nostalgia 10 Barricas Alvarinho (Vinho Verde ). From old Alvarinho vines, this wine was fermented in wood to round it out and give extra richness. The wine certainly is full-bodied, intensely fruity, packed with apricot as well as citrus flavors. The toast element is as much a presence as a taste, giving the wine the possibility of aging. It’s too fresh now; drink from 2016. Amara Imports LLC. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ NA 91 Quintas de Melgaço 2014 QM Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). For full review see page 83. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 23 91 Quintas de Melgaço 2013 QM Vinhas Velhas Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Old vines in this case means over 20 years old. The result is a wine that has…

RIESLING KABINETT 92 Dr. Loosen 2013 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett ( Mosel). For full review see page 81. abv: 8% Price: $ 28 92 Fritz Haag 2013 Brauneberger Riesling Kabinett ( Mosel). Smoke, earth and bramble tones meander amidst tart stone fruit and tangerine flavors in this bristling kabinett. Of dry in style, it’s juicy and effortlessly quaf able, yet subtly nuanced with lingering hints of blossom, saf ron and herb. Loosen Bros. USA . — A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $ 32 91 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2013 Ayler Kupp Riesling Kabinett ( Mosel). For full review see page 82. abv: 8.5% Price: $ 23 91 Dr. Loosen 2013 Blue Slate Riesling Kabinett ( Mosel). Delicate f oral tones build throughout this zesty off -dry Riesling. While sweet with honeydew flavor,…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 90 Matetic 2014 EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc ( Casablanca Valley ). Briny citrus and green-fruit aromas reflect cold-climate origins. This is zesty yet round, with acidic grit and bite. Green pepper, jalapeño and green melon flavors finish spicy and tangy, like bitter lettuce mixed with passion fruit and tangerine. Quintessential Wines . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 19 89 Lomas del Valle 2014 Coastal Cool Climate Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc ( Casablanca Valley ). Fresh aromas of stony minerals, white grapefruit and passion fruit are a proper opening for a zesty, cutting palate that’s loaded to the brink with citric acidity. Flavors of wet stones, lime, lemon and green apple finish long, zesty and without a stumble. W. Direct . — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $ 17…

PINOT NOIR 94 J. Christopher 2012 Lia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir ( Chehalem Mountains ). This is introduced by scents of rose and cherry blossoms, with a hint of butterscotch. Once tasted it’s a lush, forward, sweetly appealing wine with the impressive fruit concentration of the 2012 vintage, underscored with a layer of mineral. It’s delicious already, but destined to improve. Drink some now, and put away some to taste between 2018 and 2025. Cellar Selection. — P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 50 94 J. Christopher 2012 Olenik Vineyard Pinot Noir ( Chehalem Mountains). This single vineyard selection shines, with nuanced layers of granite, lead pencil, pepper and espresso around a core of dense black cherry and cassis. The power and concentration mark it as special. Still compact and lightly earthy,…

Summer is rum season—a time for tropical libations to sip by the pool or the beach. It makes perfect sense that a spirit made in sun-soaked climes pairs well with warm weather fun. This month, we’re spotlighting rums from two areas in particular: Puerto Rico and Venezuela. Both countries are known for making light, approachable rums. That said, some Venezuelan rums, like the Diplomatico bottlings reviewed below, have a more robust character. Also of note, Venezuelan law requires that all rum bottled in Venezuela be aged at least two years, one of the longest aging laws in the industry. It makes perfect sense that a spirit made in sunsoaked climes pairs well with warm weather fun. A selection of rums from other origins are also reviewed this month. In addition…

Sometimes you have to make do with what you have. Or, more famously, in the words of the Rolling Stones, “You can’t always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you just might f nd you get what you need.” I find myself repeating this mantra over and over again during the warm summer months. Every time I wish I wasn’t dripping with sweat, my hair wasn’t a big ball of frizz from the humidity and my brain didn’t feel like a Corvina grape drying on a straw mat, I think that while this might not be the most ideal situation, I can certainly live with it. Thankfully, there is definitely a silver lining: the release of summer seasonal beers. Summer brews are the perfect remedies to hot,…