Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2016 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

“Everything you see, I owe to pasta.” —Sophia Loren There are few who could argue with the fact that the glamorous Italian actress—outwardly impervious to aging—has successfully mastered the art of living well, and her heritage and home are clearly an essential part of the package. If we could only all be so lucky. There’s a reason the phrase la dolce vita originates in Italy. It is arguably the easiest country in the world for wine and food lovers to adore, and the eI ortless Italian charm and impeccable style permeate life from the table to the glass and beyond. For vinophiles, Italy oI ers all manner of diversity. The vertical drop of mountain vineyards in the Dolomites, the volcanic swath of terroir on Mount Etna and the lush, rolling…

Andrew Beckham, of Beckham Estate Vineyard in Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains, is the first North American vintner to make 100- to 220-gallon amphorae in which to ferment and age his wines. As a ceramics teacher, Beckham says he has found the confluence of his life’s passions: clay and wine. How did this intersection of ceramics and wine happen? It’s almost cosmic. It is! The stars aligned. I’ve been a highschool ceramics teacher for 15 years, a potter for 25. We purchased our property in 2004 with the intent of building a pottery studio. We cut the timber, and I convinced my wife, Annedria, that we ought to try a few rows of grapes. We made our first wine in 2009, and it was in about 2011 that Annedria introduced me to…

The Katharine Brasserie & Bar, a much-anticipated new restaurant, will be housed in Winston-Salem’s historic R.J. Reynolds building, a 1929 Art Deco skyscraper that inspired the Empire State Building. It merges modern French brasserie style with Executive Chef Ed Witt’s dedication to local ingredients and soulful cooking. SEARED SEA SCALLOPS with Grilled Spring Onions, Smashed Fingerling Potatoes and Piquillo Pepper Relish Courtesy Ed Witt, executive chef, The Katharine Brasserie & Bar, Winston-Salem, North Carolina 8 large or 16 medium sea scallops ½ pound fingerling potatoes Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste 1 bunch spring onions, washed and trimmed (use ramps if available) 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus additional to fry Piquillo pepper relish (recipe below) Boil potatoes in well-salted water until fork-tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and…

Wine ratings are helpful indicators of wine quality and a score of 90+ provides assurance that your wine ranks in an elite class. The next challenge is to discover gems that are both highly rated and smart values. Wine experts agree quality- to- price ratio is one of the most important considerations in choosing wine. Thankfully, there’s no better time than the present to find a wine that’s pleasing to both palate and purse. A well-priced, highly acclaimed pour can turn an otherwise typical evening into an extraordinary event. The arrival of spring ushers in moments that deserve to be celebrated. Whether you’ve begun planting your vegetable garden or just gone out for the first bike ride of the season, what better way to herald that achievement than with a…

Carpinteria’s Backyard High in the Santa Ynez Mountains above the seaside hamlet of Carpinteria lies Paredon Vineyard, where views extend from Santa Barbara’s waterfront to Anacapa Island across the channel. Planted in 2001 with Grenache and Syrah, the vineyard is tended by Ryan Carr, who pours his namesake wine as well as the Paredon brand at his winery and tasting room in downtown Santa Barbara. Climatic conditions present numerous challenges. Yields are less than one ton per acre, the mildew pressure is constant and the vines must be tricked into dormancy with two prunings. Though confronted with difficulties regarding growing grapes on Paredon Vineyard, Carr remains determined. “The hope is to get it in track for a proper season,” he says. The rewards from this site come in the form…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following…

BIERZO 93 Estefania 2006 Tilenus Pagos de Posada Mencía (Bierzo). For full review see page 82. Editors’ Choice. abv: 15.5% Price: $50 93 Peique 2009 Luis Peique Mencía (Bierzo). The pride of Peique, this warm-vintage Bierzo is power-charged on the nose, with smoky, woody aromas of baked berry fruits. Layered, intense, chewy and integrated on the palate, this Mencía tastes like licorice and baking spices blended with black cherry and plum. The finish is dark and full, but lively. Drink through 2021. Steve Miles Selections . — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 92 Peique 2010 Viñedos Viejos Mencía (Bierzo). Moderately complex but thoroughly inviting aromas of cherry, plum and oak lead to a pure, balanced palate with drying tannins. Flavors of cherry, kirsch, pepper and fresh herbs conclude on a…

CHENIN BLANC 91 Doran 2013 Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc (Swartland). This rich yet balanced barrelfermented Chenin opens with enticing aromas of honeycomb, melon flesh, toasted brioche, orange oil and apple skin. The medium-weight palate is creamy and lush, boasting notes of apple and citrus rind that linger on the spicy finish. It’s delicious now, but it should also age well through 2020. Domaine Select Wine Estates . — L.B. abv: 14% Price: $NA 90 Mullineux 2013 Old Vines White (Swartland). This Chenin Blanc-based white, with 13% Clairette Blanc and 7% Viognier, boasts a harmonious blend of fruit and floral tones throughout. Scents of underripe tropical fruit, green plum, apple and lime peel are kissed with hints of rose petal, ginger and honeysuckle, while the medium-weight palate boasts ripe flavors of…

PINOT NOIR 96 Laetitia 2013 La Coupelle Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley). For full review see page 79. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 95 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2012 Trenton Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 80. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.3% Price: $65 94 Freeman 2013 Akiko’s Cuvée Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). You’ve got to love the exotic aromas, great balance and firm texture of this complex Pinot. It’s medium bodied, tangy and delicious due to good acidity and fresh, vibrant raspberry and red cherry flavors. It has appropriate fine tannins for a gripping mouthfeel, and a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. — J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $62 94 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2011 Trenton View Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is…

Sports and Wine The countdown to slam-dunk drinking has begun. In this special issue, you’ll find everything from the best U.S. sports venues for wine lovers to tailgating tips and interviews with all-star athletes. Chile’s New Frontiers While Argentinian Malbec has stolen much of South America’s spotlight, new Chilean wineries are making a case to shift the focus. These are the wineries pushing Chile in a new direction. New Zealand Syrah Strikes Back The country’s most exciting development over the past 10 years isn’t Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir, but elegant, cool-climate Syrahs. Here’s what to look for on your next wine shop visit. Loire Valley Pairings Francophiles: Want to learn how to pair a French meal from start to finish with a variety of wines from the Loire Valley?…

This collapsible, six-bottle storage solution (viewed from above) is modeled after a vineyard installation commissioned by Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc pioneer Brancott Estate. If you can’t make it to the winery’s Heritage Centre in Blenheim, New Zealand to see designer Dror Benshetrit’s planned sculpture, Under/standing, own a countertop version of his design. Production is limited to 500 pieces.…

More than 50 years have passed since Leslie Gore crooned, “It’s my party and I’ll cry if I want to.” What if she wasn’t crying about Johnny running off with Judy, but was just overwhelmed by the demands of throwing a party? Inviting people into your home can incite anxiety in even the most rock-steady host. But if you’re already nervous about your decor, dishes and glassware, a get-together can turn jitters into full-blown panic. Stop focusing on the negative. There’s great upside to entertaining at home. You don’t have to drive, and you can control the guest list and menu. Brush aside fears of being judged by strangers—these are your friends. If you’re fun and funky, your mix-andmatch esthetic may work. If, however, your cabinets are filled with flea…

Extreme geography is the modern mantra of wine, but nothing is more challenging and beautiful than vineyards with ocean views. From treatises on the influence of fog to mission statements about steady seaside breezes, “coastal” has been a frequently repeated buzzword over the years. As it turns out, there are several vineyards along California’s Central Coast within sight of the Pacific Ocean. These discoveries come at a strategic time, as there’s a movement to establish a new coastal appellation in San Luis Obispo County. Being proposed this year to the federal government as the SLO Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA), the district would include county vineyards on the western side of the Santa Lucia Mountains. This new AVA would comprise everything from Arroyo Grande and Edna Valley in the south…

SAUVIGNON 92 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2014 Sanct Valentin Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Cut hay, tomato vine, elder flower and a whiff of yellow stone fruit mingle in the glass. The elegantly structured palate delivers grapefruit, peach and papaya alongside racy acidity. A mineral vein adds depth to the lingering finish. It’s racy and loaded with finesse. Martin Scott Wines . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $38 91 Cantina Terlano 2013 Quarz Sauvignon (Alto Adige Terlano). Tomato vine, mango, pink grapefruit and papaya aromas take center stage and carry over to the elegant palate along with notes of flint, chopped mint and sage. Lively acidity carries the fruit and herb flavors while a saline note closes the tangy finish. Banville Wine Merchants . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $65 91…

DOURO 93 Quinta da Rede 2014 Grande Reserva Branco (Douro). Due to its location near the western end of the Douro vineyards, this vineyard makes very fine white wines. This one is at the top, with wood fermentation and aging giving richness, intense flavors and a fine structure. It’s a wine that demands serious aging —ripe and full of zesty acidity as well as toast and spice flavors. Start drinking this impressive wine from late 2017. M Imports, LLC . Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 92 Quinta da Rede 2015 Reserva Branco (Douro). For full review see page 84. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $20 92 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2014 Mirabilis Grand Reserva Branco (Douro). The vineyard is on typical steep slopes on…

SHIRAZ 96 Kay Brothers 2012 Amery Vineyard Block 6 Shiraz (McLaren Vale). For full review see page 79. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $120 95 Wakefield Estate 2012 St. Andrews Single Vineyard Release Shiraz (Clare Valley). For full review see page 80. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 94 Angove 2012 The Medhyk Old Vine Shiraz (McLaren Vale). For full review see page 80. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $95 93 Chapel Hill 2012 Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This winery uses ample amounts of oak, but in years when the fruit concentration matches that intensity the wines can be compelling. Cedar and vanilla notes frame blackberry and cassis fruit in this firmly structured wine that folds in savory notes of roasted beef and black olive on the finish. Drink 2020–2030. American…

Singer-songwriter Sharon Van Etten selected this funky bottle while chatting on the record with Associate Editor @annaliz8 for an upcoming issue. Food Editor @nilsbernstein enjoyed an assortment of liquors and mixers courtesy of #SmallBatchAmerica backstage at The Late Show with Steven Colbert. Tasting Coordinator @bkfiona sipped Pol Roger NV Resérve Brut Champagne during the 2016 Sun WineFest at Mohegan Sun. At the #TasteofStBarth Gourmet Festival, Digital Editoral Manager @mvataj enjoyed pork paired with Les Hauts du Tertré Margaux. Senior Associate Digital Editor @joeybear85 popped open a bottle of Champagne at his favorite Szechwan-style BYOB in NYC. Entertaining Editors @worldwineguys drank Recanati Marawi, an ancient grape that grows in Palestine, at Rocco's Steakhouse in NYC. Visit to #nzwine classic. 19 yrs ago, the 1994 @StonyridgeNZ Larose was a revelation. Today…

Tax Day (April 15) is a date circled on millions of calendars in the U.S. For some, only a few days (or hours) remain to gather receipt-filled envelopes and hunker down with their 1040s. For others watching the chaos and confusion, Tax Day is a reminder of why they took care of things in advance. But models of both procrastination and organization share a fate: either owing money or getting a refund. These outcomes, fortunately, don’t preclude enjoying fantastic wines. Here are three highly rated bottlings to enjoy for those who can splurge, and a trio for those needing to save. SPLURGE 94 Thörle 2012 Saulheimer Hölle Spätburgunder Trocken (Rheinhessen); $64 Shades of cedar, dried herb and bramble lend complexity to this intensely concentrated Spätburgunder. It’s a powerful wine that…

Since opening in May 2015, Leyenda, a cocktail bar run by Clover Club’s Julie Reiner and her protégé, Ivy Mix, has quickly become a must-try spot for revelers in Brooklyn’s socalled Barmuda Triangle. According to Mix, the bar’s focus is Pan-Latin, drawing inspiration from Central and South America. This drink, which showcases aged rum and mezcal, fits right in. The cocktail is a breezy riff on the classic Mai Tai, with smoky mezcal to provide a bit of Brooklyn edge. Orgeat, a rich almond syrup called for in a wide range of tropical drinks, is readily available. Mix’s pick is Orgeat Works T’Orgeat Toasted Almond Syrup, made in Brooklyn, of course. TIA MIA Created by Ivy Mix, Leyenda, Brooklyn, NY 1 ounce aged rum 1 ounce mezcal ¾ ounce lime…

“I’d love to open a pork nugget stand next to Shake Shack in Madison Square Park.” —John Ratliff, founder and head butcher, Ends Meat, Brooklyn, New York “I would love to make my Deviled Bones as a street dish. It’s basically a mixture of bones that can be chicken backbones and wings, or rib bones of beef or pork.” —Richard Knight, chef, Hunky Dory, Houston “I’d serve buff alo-style pig tails with a chipotle glaze.” —Robert Phalen, executive chef, One Eared Stag, Atlanta “Khao Ngiew [Garlic Oil and Blood Rice Bundles] is a pretty old-fashioned dish, and one of my favorites. The taste is simple and clean, and the banana-leaf wrapping means it’s easy to handle on the go!” —PJ Stoops, chef, Foreign Correspondents, Houston…

1. SPARKLE & SHINE Nothing brings on RSVPs like the promise of sparkling wine. Snag some from California, like the bubblies from Chandon, Iron Horse, Mumm Napa or J Vineyards & Winery. Pair them with smoked salmon, crackers and a plate of triple crème brie. 2. MALBEC & MEAT Host an indoor asado or barbecue using your broiler or grill pan alongside Mendoza Malbec. Look for bottles from Gascón, Ruca Malen, Portillo and Susana Balbo. Serve up sliders on mini buns, or hanger steak on baguette slices. 3. THINK PINK Cold rosé will make your friends feel like they’re on a yacht in the Mediterranean. Try selections from the South of France: Jean-Luc Colombo, Gérard Bertrand or Whispering Angel. For this at-home getaway, make a buffetstyle Niçoise salad featuring greens,…

SWARTLAND The Swartland Revolution might be officially over after six years of successful events and tastings, but there’s still plenty of life left to this rustic, wildcard region. Check out the Pinotage, Chenin and Syrah-based wines from other Swartland Independent Producers (SIP) like Lammershoek and Testalonga. Wineries like Doran, Spice Route and Riebeek Cellars also have stellar selections beyond the firmly established regional revolutionaries (Badenhorst, Mullineux, Porseleinberg and Sadie Family). ELGIN Situated on an inland plateau surrounded by mountains and only miles from the Atlantic Ocean, this highaltitude region benefits from cooler, more temperate conditions than many other regions of South Africa. The result? Classy wines of elegance and finesse. Don’t miss the world-class Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Iona, Lothian, Neil Ellis and Paul Cluver. ROBERTSON While you can…

Florence (Firenze in Italian) boasts some of the world’s greatest art treasures. The Renaissance city is also the gateway to Tuscany’s celebrated wine country, home to some of Italy’s best wines. But those traveling to Florence don’t have to leave the city to find fantastic wine and food. Boasting Michelinstarred restaurants, simple trattorias, gourmet food shops and celebrated wine bars, here’s your guide to wining and dining your way around this beautiful city. Wine Bars (Enoteche) and Gourmet Shops ENOTECA PITTI GOLA E CANTINA With a knowledgeable staff and one of the best selections of high-end, hard-to-find wines from around Italy, Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina is a wine lover’s dream. Options include a wide array of wines by the glass, a wine-tasting lunch and an extensive guided tasting and…

Ben Lomond’s Best Beauregard, a retired Santa Cruz County sheriff’s deputy, purchased an old 13-acre vineyard near Bonny Doon. His descendants continued to farm the land and expanded their vineyard holdings closer to the ocean. They sold grapes while building a small grocery empire. In 1983, viticulturist Jim Beauregard, who’s planted about 350 acres of the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, roughly 30 percent of the entire appellation, established the Ben Lomond Mountain AVA. In 2000, his son, Ryan Beauregard, the great-grandson of Amos, started making wine under the family name. The most extreme site is the 17-acre Coast Grade Vineyard, where Pinot Noir vines grow about 1½ miles from the ocean at 1,300 feet. “The mountain pops out of the ocean,” says Ryan. He also makes wines from the original…

When the wines for the Alsace Grand Cru tasting arrived, my biggest surprise was the range of vintages submitted. While there were a substantial number of wines from the 2014 vintage, 2013 figured heavily, too, with a smattering of bottles from 2012 and a mere handful going back to 2005. Each one of those older vintages was incredibly sprightly and fresh, expressive and youthful, with opportunity for further development. Many of the newly bottled wines from 2014 and even 2013 were mere babies that need bottle age to come into their own. The high-scoring wines from the most recent vintages will be a delight over years, even decades, to come. The results of these tastings illustrate the point that these wines, while attractive young, are highly capable of graceful aging,…

RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS 95 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2014 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling GG Trocken (Mosel). A standout among an excellent lineup of 2014 grosses gewächs from Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, this gorgeously textured wine is as light as a feather, yet with a distinctly luscious cling. Dry but pentratingly fruity, it contrasts ripe peach and grapefruit flavors against laser-sharp edges of acidity and minerality. Drinks beautifully now but should continue to please well into the next decade. American B.D . Cellar Selection. — A.I. abv: 12% Price: $50 94 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2014 Graach Josephshöfer Riesling GG Trocken (Mosel). Saff ron and spice entice from nose to finish in this richly honeyed, yet dry Riesling. The palate is a delightful kaleidescope of fruit and mineral nuances anchored firmly by a stream of…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 91 Recanati 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). For full review see page 86. Kosher. abv: 14% Price: $17 91 Tabor 2011 Adama Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Dark ruby in color, this wine has a bouquet of black cherry, green pepper and pomegranate. Smooth tannins provide a backdrop for flavors of black cherry, cranberry, smoke and Mediterranean herbs that recede slightly on the bright cherry finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 90 Bazelet HaGolan 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Aromas of blueberry, cherry and anise yield on the palate to flavors of cherry, blackberry, eucalyptus and black pepper. Smooth tannins appear early on and endure into a pleasing finish that is interspersed with bright and spicy notes. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — M.D. abv:…

MALBEC 95 Colomé 2010 Reserva Malbec (Salta). Take note, this could be the best wine Colomé has ever bottled. Cedary oak aromas grace ripe, almost desiccated wild berry notes that are slightly herbal and sauvage. A well-layered mouthfeel is ideal in power and precision. Requisite blackberry, cassis, toast and peppery flavors finish dry and long, with little heat or burn. Drink through 2021. Hess Family Wine Estates . Editors’ Choice. — M.S. abv: 15.9% Price: $90 95 Terrazas de Los Andes 2009 Single Parcel Los Cerezos Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). While the nose on this muscular Malbec is lush, ripe and minty, there’s also a grounding, complex scent of graphite. Blazing with intensity, this tastes like a glorious blend of plum, prune, chocolate and caramel. Dry spice, toasty oak and…

GAMAY 91 Brick House 2014 Gamay Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Brick House was one of the first to plant Gamay Noir in the Willamette Valley, and may well be the state’s leading producer in terms of quantity. This is loaded with chunky cherry fruit, a penetrating style that simply brings a grin with every sip. Aromatics of root beer, sassafras and hard cherry candy add to the complexity. Editors’ Choice. — P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $29 90 Chehalem 2014 Ridgecrest Vineyards Gamay Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Bursting with fresh, bright scents and flavors of strawberries, raspberries and huckleberries, this juicy, polished and powerful wine is spring in a bottle. Lush and lively acids underscore the fruit and lead into a long, spicy finish. — P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $24 90 Evening Land…

RIESLING 90 Chateau Grand Traverse 2013 Dry Riesling (Old Mission Peninsula). Established in the early 70s by Ed O’Keefe Jr., the winery remains in the family to this day and maintains the founding father’s focus on producing wines from 100% vinifera grapes in a region where hybrids might be the easier option. Perseverance pays off in this delightfully balanced dry Riesling that seamlessly blends juicy peach, pineapple rind and a vein of talc-dusted citrus. Texturally round and soft , with a peach-fuzz feel, this is a veritable steal for the price. Best Buy. — A.P. abv: 12% Price: $13 89 Black Star Farms 2013 Arcturos Dry Riesling (Old Mission Peninsula). Austere aromas of orchard blossoms ride over limestone and peach on the nose of this northern Michigan Riesling. There’s breadth…

Italy’s bitter amaros have been bartender favorites for the past few years, due in part to the rise of the now near-ubiquitous Negroni cocktail—made with ruby-hued Campari— and its many variations. But of course, Italy doesn’t have the monopoly on liqueurs and spirits that feature bitter or herbal flavors. A wide range of European countries have long used bark, roots, flowers, herbs and spices to flavor spirits. And, like every other category, America has gotten in on the act with regional variations. For example, Washington state distillery BroVo has recruited bartenders from various U.S. cities to help create amaros that utilize local raw materials and reflect local tastes. How do those tastes vary, exactly? Mhairi Voelsgen, cofounder & CEO of BroVo, says she’s already detected patterns: “Chicago amaros are more…

While it’s generally beneficial to present a clearly defined style on beer labels, there are exceptions—styles that might cause a bit more confusion. IPAs and stouts are pretty standard these days, and so are the “imperial” or “double” iterations of these off erings. Consumers understand what to expect—that “double” means two times the overall experience in terms of flavor, strength and intensity of profile. So what happens when people come across a tripel? Will it make you combust upon first swallow from sensory overload? Obviously that won’t happen, but I wonder how many people shy away from the style, thinking that it’s going to be far too overwhelming. It’s a shame, because although these beers aren’t short on strength, they represent some of the most complex and well-craft ed beers…