Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2016 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

CINEMA SOCIETY’S WINE-STUDDED EVENING In homage to the recent film Learning To Drive and its star Patricia Clarkson, Cinema Society and Truvée Wines teamed up to host a fête fit for the silver screen. Cinematic luminaries, including Martin Scorsese and Bradley Cooper attended, and Truvée founders Robin and Andréa McBride (below) kept everyone’s thirst at bay. SHOWCASING ALBERTO BURRI In December, Italian art and wine joined forces at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum. A reception, attended by W.E. Publisher Adam Strum, celebrated the first major American retrospective of visual artist Alberto Burri, and was hosted by Marilisa Allegrini, CEO of Allegrini Estates.…

Dive deeper into Beaujolais. Visit winemag.com/moregamay…

Tasked with sales and marketing duties for her family’s Sonoma Coast vineyard and winery, Hirsch Vineyards, Hirsch chronicles her gatherings and culinary adventures on Instagram. Contributing Editor Virginie Boone caught up with Hirsch, a 2013 Wine Enthusiast 40 Under 40 tastemaker. How oft en are you on the road? About four months a year. Aft er my father’s accident, I stopped traveling for six months. [Hirsch founder David Hirsch was critically injured in a tractor accident in May 2014. Aft er spending four months in the ICU, he’s now back at the ranch.] And since the accident, I’ve also been running the winery day to day. So I’m trying to travel less. What’s the best thing happening with wine in America right now? The wine world ties togeth er a…

When Europeans first set out for the New World, grapevines weren’t far behind. Driven by religion and tradition, vines found their way to the Americas with the Spanish, British and French; to South Africa with the Dutch; and to Australia and New Zealand with the British. The next big wave of European vinous expansion didn’t occur until the late 20th century. The Champagne houses brought us Domaine Carneros (Taittinger), Domaine Chandon, Mumm Napa and Roederer Estate. European emigration to the New World continues, yielding delicious results. Another early arrival was Baron Philippe de Rothschild, whose joint venture with Robert Mondavi at Opus One began in 1979. Dominus Estate, originally a French-American project, became wholly Moueix-owned in 1995. The Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel started Tablas Creek with the Haas…

95 Gramercy Cellars 2012 Lagniappe Syrah (Columbia Valley). Blended from Red Willow, Marcoux and Oldfield vineyards, this 100% Syrah offers aromas of green olives, brown stems, dried herbs and raspberries. The palate has densely rich yet exceptionally well-balanced fruit and savory flavors that are creamy in feel. It’s flat-out stunning, winning on grace and elegance rather than sheer power alone. abv: 14.2% Price: $55 95 Reynvaan Family 2012 In the Hills Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). A wine glass can hardly contain this lightly colored wine’s generous aromas of black olive, sea salt, crushed flowers, orange peel, black pepper, mineral and smoked meat. The smoke and savory flavors display a fascinating mixture of lightness and intensity, leading to a floral finish that seems near endless.…

97 Horsepower 2012 Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache (Walla Walla Valley). Despite its lighter color, this wine explodes from the glass with a complex, near-endless list of aromas that include sea breeze, crushed flowers, peat, green olive, fire pit, smoked meat, pepper, orange peel and sea salt. Its ethereal, elegant style belies the outrageously rich, exquisitely flavorful savory notes that won’t quit, offering a completely captivating walk on the variety’s wild side. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.1% Price: $115 94 Baer 2012 Star (Columbia Valley). Made with 75% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc, this wine commands attention, with aromas of dried and fresh herbs, black fruit, toast and flowers. The dark fruit flavors are rich, layered and tightly coiled, captivating attention with spot-on balance. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.4% Price: $32 93…

From major metropolises like New York City to wine-producing hubs like California’s Paso Robles, urban wineries have proved to be more than a fad. They’re even creeping into rapidly developing cities like Austin, Texas. The focus on innovation and local grapes in some of the best urban tasting rooms makes for wines worth taking seriously. City dwellers can get in on the fun of a winery experience without missing the vineyard or leaving the personality of their city behind. Austin, Texas One of the fastest-growing metropolitan areas in the U.S., residents here are more of a beer crowd, but there’s a new winery in town aiming to change that. Ben Parsons, CEO and winemaker of The Infinite Monkey Theorem, opened his 6,000-square-foot winery and taproom off South Congress Avenue in…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following…

CHARDONNAY 91 Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2013 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). The aromas of lees, citrus, almond, melon, apple, spice and butter draw you into the glass. This wine brings a dazzling sense of texture, with fruit and spice flavors dappled throughout. Editors’ Choice. — S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 28 90 Full Pull & Friends 2011 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This négociant-style wine offers immediate appeal. Aromas of lemon, candle wax, mineral, lees and toast are followed by lively, sleek citrus flavors. This was a banner vintage for Washington whites and this wine is batting cleanup. — S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 23 90 L’Ecole No. 41 2014 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This wine is a blend of Evergreen, Schmitt and Oasis vineyards. It displays a mixture of butter, tropical fruit and red-apple…

GRÜNER VELTLINER SMARAGD 95 Emmerich Knoll 2014 Ried Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Herbal spice and yeasty savor overlay shining, ripe and juicy pear flavor. This is a compact but complex blend of fruit and peppery punch. There is a fine seam of citrus freshness heightening and brightening every sensation, suggesting that there is more and more to come. While this is delicious now, it holds even more peppery fruit at its core. Circo Vino . — A.K. abv: 13% Price: $ 53 95 Emmerich Knoll 2014 Ried Schütt Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). An overtone of leesy yeast quickly gives way to lemony freshness, rounded out by hints of yellow plum and peach. Citrus also continues to be the focus on the palate: fresh zest of ripe lemons and Meyer…

91 Ashan 2014 Barrel Fermented Chardonna Fermented and aged in French oak, this wine brings plenty of toast, plus baking spice aromas and flavors, displaying viscosity and weight that give a sense of gravitas. It’s big and bold enough to stand up to your crinkliest kettle-cooked chips. Try it with sour cream or Cheddar. —Sean P. Sullivan 90 De Loach Vineyards 2013 Russian River Valley Chardonnay; $18. Chardonnay; $18. Breaking out old-school Lays or Ruffles? Here’s a slam-dunk pairing. It’s fruity without ever overplaying the oak, yet approachable enough to not go sour when it hits the salt. The wine’s texture is sublime, but sturdy enough to go toe-to-toe with the crunch. —Virginie Boone 89 Brancott 2015 Pinot Grigio (Marlborough); $14. Alongside a simple snack—whether it’s potato or corn chips,…

The Jewish holiday known as Purim, celebrated on March 23–24, provides a good reason to explore the complexity of Israeli cuisine. It’s exploding in popularity at hot restaurants, like Philadelphia’s Zahav, Shaya in New Orleans, The Palomar in London and New York City’s Timna, where you’ll find Chef Nir Mesika. PAIR IT Amir Nathan, wine director at Timna, recommends Chateau Musar’s 2012 Jeune Rouge, a blend of Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon from Lebanon. “Like Nir’s style of cooking, this is traditional, with a twist,” says Nathan. “The wine is both savory and jammy, which makes it a bit funky, in a good way. The Cinsault’s spicy, white-pepper nose goes perfectly with lamb, and the Syrah and Cab bring dark fruit that pairs nicely with the spice rub.” LAMB CHOPS…

CALIFORNIA 95 Clos Solène 2013 Harmonie (Paso Robles); $85. A powerful, complex blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. OREGON 94 Résonance 2013 Résonance Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District); $65. The stunning debut from legendary Jadot winemaker Jacques Lardière. WASHINGTON 93 Tenet 2013 GSM (Columbia Valley); $70. Winemakers Bob Bertheau, Philippe Cambie and Michel Gassier hit their first vintage out of the park. ARGENTINA 91 Altos Las Hormigas 2012 Appellation Malbec (Vista Flores); $40. Italian consultant Alberto Antonini’s complex Malbec from Mendoza’s Uco Valley. CHILE 90 Miguel Torres 2012 Cordillera Chardonnay (Limarí Valley); $23. A rare, ageworthy Chardonnay from an emerging cool, coastal region. AUSTRALIA 90 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier 2010 Lieu Dit Malakoff Shiraz (Pyrenees); $48. Chapoutier’s Rhône heritage shows in this wine’s espresso and black olive notes. NEW ZEALAND…

95 Quilceda Creek 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). All Cabernet from Champoux, Klipsun, Palengat and Wallula vineyards, this wine offers aromas of blackberry, incense, blueberry, pencil lead and barrel spices. On the palate, it’s tightly wound with black fruit flavors and a firm backbone of tannins. The oak is primary right now. It needs extended time in the cellar to show itself fully, and will be best from 2022–30. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.1% Price: $140 94 Cadence 2012 Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard (Red Mountain). Cabernet Franc (84%) takes the lead on this wine, with the balance equal parts Merlot and Petit Verdot. It opens with aromas of flowers, dried herbs, earth and mineral. The mouthfeel is dazzling, showing depth and intensity, with enough structure to go the distance. Editors’…

90 Charles Smith 2013 Velvet Devil Merlot (Columbia Valley); $12 Best Buy. 90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $15 Best Buy. 90 Columbia Crest 2013 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $12 Best Buy. 90 Dunham 2013 Three Legged Red (Washington); $19 90 Hogue 2013 Genesis Merlot (Columbia Valley); $16 90 North by Northwest 2013 Red Blend (Columbia Valley); $15 Best Buy. 90 Substance 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley); $15 Best Buy. 89 Lone Birch 2013 Syrah (Yakima Valley); $13 Best Buy.…

Choose carefully if you seek a luxurious stay in the Sierra Foothills. But if you don’t mind creaky floors, outdated plumbing and the occasional ghost of a grizzled claim jumper, then almost any of the 19th-century hotels on the Wild West-looking main streets (the Imperial Hotel in Amador City, for example) will take you back in time. Make your base in Placerville, adjacent to Highway 50, to explore El Dorado County. Walk the classic Americana Main Street to see everyday treasures like the oldest operating hardware store west of the Mississippi and the local newspaper office, where Mark Twain would feel at home. Heyday Café serves fresh, produce- driven food, and it pours well-chosen local and out-of-region wines. The Eden Vale Inn offers elegant interiors and pampering service inside handsome…

The estate winery experience is key to the steady rise in success here, where rolling vineyards surround hilltop chateaus. But a few years ago, the region’s youthful and tradition-bucking vanguard set up shop in a warehouse zone just south of downtown. Today, “Tin City” is home to more than a dozen wineries, as well as a brewery, distillery and cider house. Many are open for walk-in visits, including Aaron Wines, Brian Benson Cellars and Levo Wines. Visiting others, like Giornata and Clos Solène, requires an appointment. “Overall, 2016 should be another big year in Tin City,” says Winemaker Andrew Jones, who was featured in Wine Enthusiast’s 40 Under 40 issue last year and whose Field Recordings label was among the first to settle into the space. “Sans Liege will be…

Crossroads by Tal Ronnen (Artisan, 2015) Along with Philadelphia’s Vedge, Crossroads in Los Angeles helped pioneer the new wave of upscale vegan when it opened in 2013. My New Roots by Sarah Britton (Clarkson Potter, 2015) These recipes from a hugely popular Copenhagen-based blogger are as lovely as they are luscious. Plenty More by Yotam Ottolenghi (Ten Speed Press, 2014) This beloved vegetableloving (but meat-eating) chef’s follow-up to 2011’s Plenty may be his best cookbook yet. Veganomicon by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero (Da Capo Press, 2007) The more than 250 accessible, global recipes in this book showcase the range of vegan cuisine. The Greens Cookbook by Deborah Madison (Grub Street, 1987) A classic from San Francisco’s Greens Restaurant that expanded the possibilities of…

PINOT NOIR 88 Ventisquero 2012 Herú Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Aromas of tire rubber and asphalt are low on fruit. This turns for the better on the palate, which feels creamy despite showing rubbery tannins. Peppery flavors of cherry, plum and raspberry become salty on a mostly smooth, solid finish. San Francisco Wine Exchange . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 45 87 Echeverria 2013 Gran Reserva Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). This is a light, airy Pinot with a see-through rusty color and aromas of hard spices, tomato and dried red fruits. A fresh, lean, almost diluted palate is featherweight, while flavors of spicy red fruits, oak-based caramel and tea finish dry and simple. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC . — M.S. abv: 13.5% 86 Chilcas 2013 Reserva Pinot Noir (Maule…

RIESLING 92 Boundary Breaks 2014 No. 239 Single Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Honeysuckle and orange blossoms perfume this bright, ebullient wine full of ripe grapefruit and pineapple flavors. While dry in style, it juxtaposes a lusciously rich, penetrating palate against a pulsating backbone of lemon-line acidity. It’s pristine yet powerful through a long, undulating finish. Editors’ Choice. — A.I. abv: 12.8% Price: $ 19 91 Boundary Breaks 2013 No. 198 Single Vineyard Reserve Riesling (Finger Lakes). A waxy vein of petroleum cuts enticingly through juicy-sweet pink grapefruit and peach flavors in this dainty semisweet Riesling. It’s vivaciously spry yet finishes long on a lingering lacy veil of sweetness. Drink now through 2022. Editors’ Choice. — A.I. abv: 8.9% Price: $ 19 91 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2014 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes).…

CERASUOLO DI VITTORIA CLASSICO 94 COS 2011 Delle Fontane (Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico). Earthy and delicious, this soulful red opens with aromas of sunbaked soil, leather, ripe black fruit, dark spice and a funky but pleasant whiff of game. The round, smooth tastes of juicy blackberry, wild cherry, cinnamon, black olive, cured meat and mineral framed in silky tannins. It’s already enjoyable, with depth and balance but it will age well for another decade or more. Drink through 2026. Domaine Select Wine Estates . Cellar Selection. — K.O. abv: 13% Price: $ 70 91 COS 2013 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico . Dark berry, baking spice, tilled soil and a hint of new leather aromas unfold on this polished, earthy red. The juicy palate tastes of black cherry, cinnamon, orange zest,…

March is one of those transitional beverage months, when you’re likely done fully enjoying the big, bold beers of winter but are not quite ready to welcome the lighter, brighter selections of spring. What’s a beer lover to do? Brown ales are the perfect solution to your mid-season woes. Traditionally an English style, brown ales were originally spawned from mild ales. The style’s rich, malty character without overly robust or bitter notes and moderate alcohol profile, as well as ample carbonation, provide the best of both worlds: flavorful, yet approachable and oft en sessionable. The hop profile of traditional European selections is typically low—light on aroma, flavor and overall bitterness—allowing the malt characteristics to take center stage and truly shine. Some producers prefer a lean profile, with cleansing carbonation to…

For fans of lighter-style reds, Gamay is a go-to grape, and one that’s on the move. Inspired by the wines of Beaujolais (and the Loire Valley), a small but dedicated group of Oregon winemakers are expanding the red wine repertoire of the Willamette Valley. This area has long been recognized among the world’s premier growing regions for Pinot Noir. But an important Burgundian grape remains on the periphery—Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc, the red grape of Beaujolais, where it has thrived since the early 17th century. This is not the same grape as California’s Gamay Beaujolais (an early-ripening clone of Pinot Noir) or Napa Gamay (which is actually Valdiguié). Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc (commonly referred to as just Gamay) produces wines with high acidity and vibrant fruit flavors. It’s…

Thirsty Dragon: China’s Lust for Bordeaux and the Threat to the World’s Best Winesby Suzanne Mustacich (Henry Holt and Co., 2015) Thirsty Dragon provides a detailed look into the pitfalls and pratfalls involved when the world’s most famous wines become sought-aft er commodities in China. Culture clash and corruption color a story that goes beyond the bottle, concluding with a look at Western investment in Chinese vineyards and wine production. Vintage: A Novelby David Baker (Touchstone, 2015) A former best-selling writer, undone by a bottle of Vacqueyras and a resulting pink slip from his newspaper job, sets off to Europe in search of a “lost” wine vintage and a chance at redemption. And maybe a book deal. American Wino: A Tale of Reds, Whites, and One Man’s Bluesby Dan Dunn…

If so, Expatriate, a cool, cozy cocktail bar in Portland, Oregon, is leading the way. This subtle whiskey sipper, named for the Irish writer, pairs perfectly with any creative “drinking snacks.” At the bar, try the wonton-chip nachos with spicy lemongrass beef, supplied by Beast, the carnivorous restaurant across the street run by James Beard Award-winning Chef Naomi Pomeroy. THE JAMES JOYCE Created by Gary Regan; adapted by Kyle Linden Webster for Expatriate, Portland, Oregon 1½ ounces Jameson Irish Whiskey ¾ ounce sweet vermouth ¾ ounce orange Curaçao ½ ounce lime juice Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Shake well, and strain into a chilled rocks glass or coupe. IRISH WHISKEY We know that St. Patrick’s Day is growing near when the buzz about Irish…

You’ve experienced site specificity in a wine glass, but how about in a teacup? Cynthia Gold, tea sommelier at Boston’s L’Espalier, explains via three recommendations how far-flung morning mists and rocky cliffs add distinct character to the contents of your teapot. NILGIRI FROST Nilgiri (Blue) Mountains, Southern India During winter months in Southern India’s Nilgiri (Blue) Mountains, shaded parts of the tea bushes are affected by frost. These “damaged” leaves are quickly harvested and processed, and they result in a particularly sweet, complex and fruity flavor with distinct muscatel notes usually only seen in the Northern Indian Darjeelings or Nepalese teas. The varying levels of moisture in different portions of the damaged leaf cause the leaves to oxidize at different rates and different degrees, resulting in varied colors to the…

93 Woodward Canyon 2013 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Wood spice and vanillin are out in front on the aromas followed by mocha, raspberry and dark fruit. The palate brings lush, concentrated flavors and a finish with lots of hangtime. It drinks beautifully out of the gate, but should have a long life ahead of it. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.2% Price: $52 92 Januik 2012 Merlot (Columbia Valley). With grapes coming from Weinbau, Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval vineyards, among others, this wine offers brooding aromas of dark raspberries and bittersweet chocolate. The oak (half new French) provides a perfect complement, with flavors of coffee and spice mixing with dark fruit. It’s hard to put the glass down. abv: 14.4% Price: $25 92 Stevens 2012 Stevens Merlot (Yakima Valley). This blend of…

Wine grapes have grown in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada since just after the fabled Gold Rush of 1849. Would-be prospectors flocked to the region that year after news spread about the discovery of gold in the American River by James Marshall in January 1848. Dozens of the towns that exist today were founded as encampments for the prospectors. Some struck gold and made their fortunes, while others found better luck in supplying the new population with mining equipment, food and clothing. It’s where Levi Strauss & Co. got its start. The miners and would-be miners had a thirst for alcohol, and there was little supply at the time. Swiss immigrant Adam Uhlinger planted grapes in Amador County in 1856, which were the original vines in the Sierra Foothills,…

Approximately 70 percent of New Zealand’s grape harvest is Sauvignon Blanc. And it accounts for 86.5 percent by volume of the country’s exports, according to the 2015 annual report by New Zealand Winegrowers. In terms of shelf space in American wine retailers, the proportion might be even higher. I get it—Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has become an international standard. In this issue, the Sauvignon Blanc reviews are a microcosm of the current state of the market: A handful of laterelease 2013s (a fine vintage); a preponderance of the less-exciting 2014s; and a preview of the low yielding but potentially excellent 2015s. New Zealand Chardonnay also has worldclass potential, with the pace set by the consistent excellence of Kumeu River’s offerings. Other stars include Cypress in Hawke’s Bay and Dog Point and…

CHARDONNAY 94 Arista 2013 Banfield Vineyards Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). From one of the producer’s coolest sites, this wine has a nose of wet gravel and lime peel, enveloped in oaky caramel and toast with Meyer lemon jam. A mouthwatering structure of spicy acidity underlies it all. It has ages to go in the bottle; drink now through 2023. Cellar Selection. — V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 60 93 Anaba 2013 Denmark Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Components of salty toffee and honey provide a luxurious texture to this otherwise floral, nicely balanced wine, a subtle cradling of oak never in the way of its tense minerality. Green apple and Meyer lemon make appearances along the way. — V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 32 93 Anaba 2013 J McK Estate Vineyard…

SAINT-ESTÈPHE 96 Château Calon Ségur 2013 Saint-Estèphe . This is an impressive wine that transcends the problems of the vintage. It has rich fruit that is sustained by the tannic structure that rests on a bed of fresh blackberry fruits cut with fresh acidity. The wine will certainly age well. Don’t think about drinking it before 2024. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 65 95 Château Montrose 2013 Saint-Estèphe . This is a firm wine although with superb fruit. It is structured and dense, dark with tarry tannins as well as juicy fruitiness. It is a powerful wine that certainly has the freshness of the year while also having dark, dense tannins. Drink from 2025. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ NA 94 Château Cos d’Estournel…

The Japanese whisky category (no “e,” just like Scotch whisky, from which Japan’s version took its earliest cues), has been on a slow but steady ascent over the past couple of years. In fact, the category has become so popular, the largest producers—Suntory and Nikka— found that stocks were in danger of depletion, and recently withdrew several age-statement whiskies in favor of new bottlings that contain a blend of ages. Hibiki 12 Years Old is now hard to find in the U.S., replaced with the new Hibiki Japanese Harmony, a blend of malt and grain whiskies that tastes strikingly similar to the 12 Years Old bottling. That doesn’t mean that there’s anything wrong with the newer releases—they’re excellent, across the board. Of note, not a single Japanese whisky expression reviewed…

“It’s a rite of passage,” a friend told me matter-of-factly. “Every Aussie has to do it.” That was the line I found myself repeating to my husband to convince him that driving ourselves, our seven-month-old baby and our Jack Russell Terrier across Australia in a camper van was a good idea. It worked. And indeed, it turned out to be a good idea. But I found myself in a predicament only a fellow wine lover might understand. What to do with the contents of your cellar when uprooting your life? The answer? Drink it. Fortunately, our rented 25-foot camper van had a perfectly suitable place for storing wine while on the road. A hidden compartment beneath one of the back seats did the trick. With a minimal amount of sweatshirt…