Distilleries have been created in some strange buildings. In Northern Sweden, Box was developed in a former power station, Pearse Lyons in Dublin was formerly a church, and Pickering’s Edinburgh gin distillery was once the dog kennels of a veterinary hospital.
For cramped quirkiness, however, it would be hard to beat Dornoch in the Scottish Highlands, formed within the redundant private fire station of Dornoch Castle. Here, brothers Philip and Simon Thompson are doing something rather special, namely trying to make malt whisky the way it used to be, back in the days before yield was king and character sometimes a secondary consideration.
The Thompson brothers arrived in Dornoch, Sutherland as teenagers in 2000, when their parents Colin and Ros bought historic Dornoch Castle, which had been operating as a…