Innholdsfortegnelse for Fall 2020 i Whisky Advocate

For one summer, I was the worst bartender in the world. I took a job at a local hotel to make some quick cash before my next year at university. The place had a bar and restaurant that served famished families on weeknights out and parties of genteel senior citizens with minuscule appetites. Straightening my pre-tied bow tie, I stepped behind the bar for my first shift, to be shown the ropes by the two regular bartenders: Chris, a wise guy who was always cracking jokes and charming the clientele to leave bigger tips, and Tim, a sullen fellow whose eyes darted nervously around the room as if on high alert My training lasted barely five minutes and went some-thing like this. On tap, we had Tennant’s, McEwan’s 80/-, Theakston…

92 Barrell Cask-Strength bourbon (Batch 23) 53.89%, $90 Caramel, baked marsh-mallow, dark cherry, and candied peanuts 92 Maker’s Mark Cask Strength Kentucky straight bourbon (Batch 19-01) 54.4%, $40 Chocolate, almonds, shortbread, and tobacco 92 Belle Meade Cask Strength Reserve (Batch No. 5) 56.8%, $70 Cinnamon Red Hots, grape soda, chocolate-covered caramels, and roasted corn 93 W.L. Weller Full Proof Kentucky straight bourbon 57%, $50 Blackberry compote, tiramisu, and milk chocolate 100+ proof 91 Four Gate Split Stave by Kelvin Cask-Finished bourbon 57.8%, $175 Oak-forward, with dark cherry, black tea, and licorice 90 Wild Turkey Rare Breed Kentucky straight bourbon 58.4%, $45 Hints of caramel apples, pumpkin pie, and roasted pecans 94 Old Ezra 7 year old Barrel-Strength Kentucky straight bourbon 58.5%, $50 Cinnamon, roasted pecan, melted caramel, and macaroons 94…

Canon Seattle, Wash. Cedar Brook Sour Mash Whiskey c.1880 $2,600 per 1.5 oz. John Howie Steak Bellevue, Wash. Van Winkle Family Reserve 17 year old 1991, 50.5% $1,900 per 2 oz. Brandy Library New York, N.Y. Glenmorangie Pride 41 year old 1974, 52% $1,800 per 2 oz. The Whiskey House San Diego, Calif Macallan No. 6, 43% $999 per 1.75 oz. Multnomah Whiskey Library Portland, Ore. Macallan M, 44% $998 per 1.5 oz. Hard Water San Francisco, Calif. Willett Family Estate 22 year old No. C18D, 68.85% $495 per 1 oz. LUXBAR Chicago, Ill Yamazaki 25 year old, 43% $333 per 2.5 oz.…

Asked to pinpoint the home of the world’s most flavorful whisky, many scotch lovers would jab a finger on Islay. The Scottish isle may be only 239 square miles, a speck on the map, but its massive smoky, wild, and polarizing whiskies span the globe. Whether we’re talking ambition, attitude, or world-beating peat smoke, this tightknit island community knows how to aim big While Islay is most synonymous with heavy-hitting peated whisky, this tiny is-land harbors more diversity than many drinkers might realize. Islay whiskies can be smoky or smokeless, industrial or hand-crafted, traditional or innovative, loved or hated, yet at the crux of these extremes, every one is ingrained with the pride of their common origin. The pagodas are smoking, the huge copper pot stills are boiling, and Islay…

FOUNDED 1779 OWNER Beam Suntory bowmore.com SAY IT “bow-MORE” STYLE Peated CAPACITY 2,000,000 lpa TOURS Yes! Check website for dates and times STAY OVERNIGHT Bowmore Cottages In Islay’s capital, the island’s oldest distillery can trace its history back to 1779. That sort of pedigree makes Bowmore a collector’s dream. Spearheaded by the Black Bowmore series, its 1960s distillates achieve auction prices that no other distillery on Islay can match. In one sale in September 2018, Whisky Auctioneer sold a lot of three bottles of Black Bowmore 1964 bottled in the mid 1990s for $51,500 and a three-bottle lot of Bowmore Trilogy 1964 for $64,400. But beyond such icons, the distillery is adept at making very good whisky at reasonable prices for the rest of us, in part because it has…

FOUNDED 1846 OWNER Diageo malts.com SAY IT “cull-EE-la” STYLE Unpeated and peated CAPACITY 6,500,000 lpa TOURS Yes! Check website for dates and times Caol Ila Distillery is Islay’s largest producer of single malt whisky for one reason: Johnnie Walker. This close relationship with the world’s best-selling blended scotch is evident in last year’s release of Johnnie Walker Black Label Islay Origins, of which Caol Ila is the beating heart. Johnnie Walker is the driving force behind the renovations to the distillery’s visitor experience that are currently ongoing. While Caol Ila is a valuable component to the blender, and lives in the shadow of its sibling Lagavulin (also owned by Diageo), it’s a characterful whisky that deserves to be enjoyed as a single malt. The majority of the distillery’s production is…

The Buying Guide provides ratings of whiskies from around the world with an emphasis on new releases available for purchase in the U.S. Complete tasting notes are provided for all whiskies scoring 84 points or more (on the Whisky Advocate 100-point scale). Lower scoring whiskies are included at the discretion of the editors, and some may appear exclusively on whiskyadvocate.com. RATINGS AND PRICES Ratings are to provide a relative comparison of quality with reference to both directly competing products and whiskies in general. Price is not a consideration when arriving at ratings. Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. When none is available, we establish a representative retail price. Actual retail prices may vary. Whiskies sold in the U.S. have prices marked in dollars; any whisky priced in other currency…

BITING ON BAND-AIDS? Dear Whisky Advocate, I’ve been a subscriber to Whisky Advocate for a couple of years now. I look forward to every issue. My hope right now is that you will someday soon increase your publication frequency to six times a year. In regard to the article “Build Your Best Highball” in the Summer 2020 issue Whisky Selector $50 & under Single Malt Scotch: 92 Laphroaig 10 year old [the tasting note states] Band-Aids and seaweed. Band-Aids? As an infant I probably bit into a number of things. I don’t think Band-Aids was one of them. What exactly do Band-Aids taste like? Many thanks and best regards, David Liberis LiberisGood day, David! When we speak about flavors in whisky, olfactory sensations often play a role at least as…

The Italian amaro Fernet-Branca—a bracingly bitter elixir made from a mélange of 27 herbs, roots, and spices, and the most recognizable example of fernet—is not for the faint of heart. But as many bartend-ers will attest, this potently herbaceous liqueur shines as a cocktail additive, especially when paired with whisky. “Fernet is a polarizing flavor,” says Michael Neff, co-founder, co-owner, and lead mixologist at Houston’s Cottonmouth Club. “Especially when you’re doing stirred and boozy cocktails, it kind of drives in contrast.” Fortunately, there’s no shortage of whiskies that can stand toe to toe with fernet. “Whisky generally has enough of its own flavor and identity to be able to withstand introducing that big, bold flavor, and still keep its legs underneath it,” Neff says. But building a balanced drink also…

When online whisky auctions first launched more than a decade ago, part of their appeal was much lower fees than traditional auction houses. But lockdown has been a great leveler, as the pandemic has forced live auction companies to conduct their sales online. Adversity creates opportunity, but if online auctions become the new normal, the situation opens the door to a debate on greater parity of auction premiums Buyers pay a percentage of the hammer price, the “buyer’s premium,” on every lot they win. Arguably, auction houses work much harder to earn the “seller’s premium” paid out by the seller of the whisky. Collectors and auctioneers should now evaluate whether the big buyer’s premiums charged by traditional salerooms can still be justified. Packed with eager collectors, live auctions were naturally…

As I sit at my desk on a sunny but cool mid-May afternoon, a tumbler of Bowmore 12 year old at my hand, it has been precisely 60 days since I last supped in a bar, café, pub, or tavern. Of course, in the context of the pandemic, with no firm end presently in sight, and no idea how all of it will all play out by the time this column appears in autumn, this fact is of infinitesimally minor significance. I mention it only as a means of providing con-text for what follows Sixty days is by a wide margin the longest I have gone without setting foot in a licenced establishment since coming of legal drinking age. In some ways, the bar is my natural milieu, certainly my…

Booker’s 2020-02 “Boston Batch” 90 points Part of the James B. Beam Distilling Co.’s Small Batch Collection, this barrel-proof bourbon has the same origins as Jim Beam White Label, made at the company’s two Kentucky distilleries. Canadian Club Chronicles 42 year old: The Dock Man 96 points Made at Hiram Walker Distillery, this extra-aged whisky boasts complex aromas and flavors of spice, fruit, and pepper. Glenfiddich Grand Cru 92 points Aged 23 years, including time in casks from France’s most famous sparkling wine region, this Speyside single malt is fruity and floral, buttressed by a full mouthfeel. Glenlivet Enigma 93 points The distillery revealed little about this mysterious single malt, No. 8 in our 2019 Top 20, when it was first released, but its rich full flavors spoke for themselves.…

Hey Big Spender! Your convenience store may sell whisky, but not these whiskies. Big-ticket whiskies reside in glass cases in specialty spirits shops, priced more in line with luxury goods and fine art rather than everyday drinks. The most ex-pensive whiskies available can span opulent new releases, auction bottles bought to resell, and unsold collectibles with prices that have risen commensurate with their scarcity. The retail prices bear little relation to the cost of production, and some would even say reality, but then you wouldn’t expect to buy a 50 year old whisky based on the price of malted barley, sherry casks, and labor from five decades ago. So, if not raw materials, what makes these whiskies so expensive? For one, age comes at a premium, and scotch whisky is…

FOUNDED 1825 OWNER Diageo No website SAY IT “port EL-en” STYLE Peated CAPACITY Closed 1983; new distillery plans approved December 2019 with projected capacity of 800,000 lpa TOURS Tours occasionally offered during Feis Ile, Islay’s annual whisky festival Port Ellen Distillery closed in 1983, one of many single malt distilleries that fell silent in an era when Islay was hit particularly hard as consumers began choosing wine and vodka over whisky, leading to a surplus of whisky stocks and savage cuts in distillery production. Peated whisky wasn’t fashionable, and blenders didn’t require vast stocks of it to maintain the flavor profile of their blends, so distilleries closed or cut back production to two or three days a week. The stocks of Port Ellen were slowly bottled and consumed over the…

Best Values Whiskies with solid scores, modest prices, and wide availability. RYE 91 Old Overholt Bottled in Bond (2020 Edition), 50%, $25 This relaunched version of Old Overholt’s bonded rye is not chill-filtered, and it makes a noticeable difference. Aromas of cinnamon-sprinkled apple slices, toasted grain, spearmint and peppermint candies, and Cinnamon Life cereal carry into the palate, which balances oak and grain superbly: fresh mint, licorice, black pepper, allspice, cinnamon, cacao nibs, and walnuts. The vivacious spices almost pop in the mouth, but settle down into a satisfying finish of black pepper, cacao, mint, and well-integrated oak. Well-balanced without water, but a few drops serve it well.—SSB JAPANESE BLENDED 90 Mars Iwai 45, 45%, $35 Boosting the ABV gives this more versatility for whisky-based cocktails, but neat, there are…

BOURBON AND FINISHED BOURBON 94 Bardstown Bourbon Co. Discovery Series Kentucky Straight (No. 2), 61.1%, $130 A basket of berries—blue, black, and rasp—plus brown sugar, dark chocolate, iced tea, and walnuts in syrup on the nose. The berries carry through to the palate, though it’s more chocolate-oriented, with cocoa powder, coffee bean, and peanut butter-swirled brownies. It’s full and deep, and remarkably smooth without water, though a drop or two doesn’t go amiss. The finish is full and lengthy, with chocolate, roasted walnuts, rich oak, and a hint of spice. Outstanding. (8,340 bottles)—SSB 94 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight (Batch B520), 63.6%, $60 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Batch B517 was our Whisky of the Year in 2017, and this latest release continues the tradition. The nose exudes spice, rich…

JAPANESE SINGLE MALT 92 Chichibu Ichiro’s Malt U.S. Edition (2019 Release), 55.5%, $275 See Collectibles, page 107 91 Chichibu Ichiro’s Malt On The Way (2019 Release), 51.5%, $335 Drawn from bourbon casks, refill chibidaru quarter casks, and mizunara-head hogsheads, this has barley, dried apricot, finely ground pepper, and sugared apple on the nose. Wafting peat smoke aromas are accentuated by dilution. Incredibly fruity with plenty of body, the initial apple, pear, and spike of pepper are overtaken by golden syrup, vanilla, pastry, candied fruits, and fruity desserts. Stick with cask strength: Water releases gooseberry sharpness and quells the spices. (11,000 bottles, 288 for U.S.)—JM 91 Mars Komagatake Double Cellars (2019 Release), 47%, $165 Distilled at the Shinshu distillery in Nagano, and matured both there and at the aging cellar on…

WORLD WHISKY: ITALY Puni Distillery, one of Italy’s first whisky producers, combines modernity with tradition, distilling from three malted grains: barley, rye, and wheat. Located in northern Italy’s Venosta Valley, this family-owned distillery began making whisky in 2012, drawing on the region’s alpine water and using a pair of traditional Scottish-built copper pot stills. The slumbering casks benefit from the warm summers and cold winters of the South Tyrolean climate to assist maturation, resulting in this range of light-bodied, flavorsome whiskies, aged from 3 to 5 years. 90 Puni Vina, 43%, $95 A moreish nose, rich and sophisticated, this was matured for 5 years in marsala vergine casks. A malty nose with cinnamon, dark rye bread, plain chocolate, toasted cereals, worn leather, plum sauce, dry spice, and dark red fruits…

Scientists have recently confirmed what many whisky drinkers already knew: Adding a few drops of water to your glass can make whisky more flavorful. But there's no need to sully the drinking experience with a cheap medicine dropper. Whether blown from glass or sculpted from aluminum, these pipettes are an elegant solution for dilution, ideal for the judicious addition of water to fine whisky.…

If you’ve heard of cachaça (pronounced kuh·CHA·suh), the Brazilian spirit de-rived from fermented sugarcane juice, you most likely associate it with the Caipirinha, a refreshing cocktail of lime, sugar, and unaged—or prata—cachaça. And while prata cachaça is an interesting and unique spirit in and of itself, there’s a wide world of drinking opportunities to be explored in barrel-aged cachaça, especially for a whisky enthusiast looking to change things up without venturing too far afield. Brazilian law states that in order to be called aged cachaça—or cachaça envelhecida—at least 50% of the liquid must be aged in a wood barrel no larger than 700 liters in capacity for at least one year. Cachaça is often likened to rum—particularly rhum agricole—thanks to its sugarcane base, but aged cachaça has plenty in common…

Nicole Austin, general manager and distiller at Cascade Hollow Distilling Co., is a rising star of the whisky world and we were curious about which whisky she’s enjoying right now. So we asked. And kept asking. Introducbing Six Degrees of Distillation, where we query a string of distillers to name a favorite whisky, other than their own, of course. 1 Nicole Austin general manager and distiller, Cascade Hollow Distilling Co. George Dickel 13 year old Bottled in Bond (distilled in Fall 2005), 50%, $36 “I’m loving Ragtime Rye Applejack Finish, from New York Distilling Co. It’s delicious, spicy, balanced, and also made by some really excellent humans! The whiskey is produced in New York from locally grown rye and corn and is finished in New York applejack casks. I have…

By its nature, the world of whiskey does not change much or very rapidly. Yet as I write this, no one knows what tomorrow will bring because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Given the nature of print publishing, as you read this, remember I don’t know what has happened between my now and your now. As I see the world changing in ways that will be with us for a long time, I ask myself, what might this mean for whiskey, as an industry and an enthusiasm? Keep in mind, the industry has known tough times before. It was wiped out completely a century ago by Prohibition. The whiskey side of the distilled spirits business had a near-death experience just 50 years ago. Liquor has been at the mercy of government…

Whisky is big—more popular than ever! And along with that renewed appreciation we are seeing whiskies of incredible quality, impactful flavor, and bountiful production. Distilling is prospering on Islay, the legendary home of peated whisky, with its distinctive and powerful flavor that refuses to be ignored. Likewise, barrel-proof American whiskeys generally gain in power and proof as they mature, making them unforgettably intense. We also reach for the pinnacle of whisky, in both price and scores. (Fortunately, they are not one and the same). While you might covet million-dollar bottlings, you’ll find some of the highest-scoring whiskies are actually quite affordable. Finally, with so much emphasis on limited-edition, small-batch, and craft, you may be unaware that some superb whiskies are dis-tilled on a massive, industrial scale. We reveal why sometimes…

MACALLAN $1,537,443 Macallan 60 year old Fine & Rare 1926 Sotheby’s London October 2019 YAMAZAKI $645,125 645,125Yamazaki 55 year old Bonhams Hong KongAugust 2020 BOWMORE $384,361 Bowmore 54 year old 1957 Sotheby’s London October 2019 KARUIZAWA $352,860 Karuizawa 52 year old Zodiac Rat 1960 Sotheby’s London March 2020 SPRINGBANK $281,865 Springbank 50 year old 1919 Sotheby’s LondonOctober 2019 DALMORE $271,062 Dalmore 62 year old The Mackenzie Sotheby’s LondonMay 2020…

97 Johnnie Walker Blue Label 40%, $250 A blended scotch whisky that is powerful and intense, with silky sweetness and pervasive smoke. 96 Bushmills 21 year old 40%, $250 An Irish single malt featuring honey, banana, and brown butter flavors, with a smooth, sweet madeira finish. 96 Redbreast 12 year old 40%, $60 A honeyed and silky Irish single pot still with toffee and toasted marshmallow among its layers of sweetness. 95 Ardbeg Corryvreckan 57.1%, $90 Smoky bacon, seaweed, and dark berry flavors soar in this Islay single malt that is both sweet and savory. 94 Dewar’s 21 year old Double Double 46%, $50/375ml A smooth blended scotch with chocolate-dipped raspberries, gingersnaps, and bold sherry fruit yield-ing to a finish of smoke and spice. 94 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (Batch…

FOUNDED 1881 OWNER Distell bunnahabhain.com SAY IT “boona HA-ven” STYLE Unpeated and peated CAPACITY 3,200,000 lpa TOURS Yes! Check website for dates and times Like the Gaelic names of its whiskies, this isn’t easy to say, but until recently Bunnahabhain’s huge unlacquered stills were a patchwork of stains and repairs, piles of casks were stacked around the site in various states of disintegration, and the neglected paintwork was crying out for attention. While this gave the visitor a glimpse of a hardworking, bona fide distillery, it also highlighted years of underinvestment and was out of step with the slick, polished visitor experiences delivered elsewhere on the island. Bunnahabhain has had a bumpy ride this century. However, following several ownership changes, its South African owner is investing $14 million to upgrade…

Elixir Distillery elixirdistillers.com Elixir Distillers submitted a planning application in November 2018 to construct Elixir Distillery between Port Ellen and Laphroaig. The company is co-owned by Sukhinder Singh, owner of London-based The Whisky Exchange retail store and website, import and distribution company Speciality Drinks, and noted whisky collector. The proposal includes plans for a visitor center and a large distillery with two pairs of stills, floor maltings, and a production capacity of 1.2 million lpa. Thirteen months after submission, Elixir Distillers’ application was denied. They submitted a new application in December 2019 to address various design issues; however, the plan has faced mounting opposition, with local residents lodging over 20 formal objections with the planning authorities, and an online petition on change.org to stop the building of the distillery that…

Dewar’s OWNER Bacardi HEART MALT Aberfeldy OTHER MALT DISTILLERIES Aultmore, Craigellachie, Macduff (Glen Deveron), Royal Brackla TASTE THEM TOGETHER Dewar’s 12 year old with Aberfeldy 12 year old Johnnie Walker OWNER Diageo HEART MALTS Cardhu and Clynelish OTHER MALT DISTILLERIES Auchroisk, Benrinnes, Blair Athol, Caol Ila, Cragganmore, Dailuaine, Dalwhinnie, Dufftown, Glen Elgin, Glen Ord, Glen Spey, Glendullan, Glenkinchie, Glenlossie, Inchgower, Knockando, Lagavulin, Linkwood, Oban, Mannochmore, Mortlach, Roseisle, Royal Lochnagar, Strathmill, Talisker, Teaninich TASTE THEM TOGETHER Jane Walker by Johnnie Walker with Cardhu 12 year old Chivas Regal OWNER Pernod Ricard HEART MALTS Strathisla and Longmorn OTHER MALT DISTILLERIES Aberlour, Allt-a-Bhainne, Braeval, Dalmunach, Glen Keith, Glenburgie, Glentauchers, Glenlivet, Miltonduff, Scapa, Tormore TASTE THEM TOGETHER Chivas 18 year old with Longmorn 16 year old…

SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALTS 92 Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection 1979 (Distilled at Glenlivet; Cask No. 19237), 54%, $2,200 The nose yields tangerines, linseed, marzipan, ginger, and honey, followed by a mild menthol note. Rounded and chewy on the palate, with lively orchard fruit flavors, turning to slightly bitter Seville orange and light chile. Licorice root and tannins develop in the very long, citric finish. (62 bottles; U.S. exclusive)—GS 92 Macallan 18 year old Double Cask, 43%, $330 Deep notes of wood polish on the floral nose, with toffee and a whiff of cloves. The palate is slick, with Christmas pudding, orange, caramel, oak, and dark chocolate. Black coffee, citrus fruit, ginger, and black pepper in the lengthy finish.—GS 91 Macallan 15 year old Double Cask, 43%, $135 Initially, a fleeting…

IRISH BLENDED GRAIN 88 J.J. Corry The Hanson, 46%, $55 Clean, pure, clinical aromas of a boutique, with light lemon fondant, vanilla, and basil leaves. Icing sugar, lemon, almonds, and sweet rose-scented Turkish delight flavors develop into butterscotch, peppercorn, ginger, fudge, and banana, rounded off with ripe fruits, melted butter, dried apple, sherbet, raspberry taffy, and raspberry bubble gum. Named after the exciseman that proposed to J.J. Corry’s daughter, this whiskey has plenty of stories to tell.—JM IRISH BLENDED 93 J.J. Corry The Vatting No. 1, 47.8%, $2,000 Blended in Co. Clare, this concoction of rare Irish whiskeys from 1991 is an utter delight. Honeydew, orange frangipane, rose Turkish delight, vanilla icing, and beguiling floral perfumes. Golden syrup, orange oils, vanilla, and caramel, sprinkled with lemon and lime zest; this…

JAPANESE BLENDED 90 Ichiro’s Malt & Grain (Batch 17), 46.5%, $95 A unifying blend of 10 year old Chichibu, with select stocks of American, Canadian, Irish, and scotch whiskies matured in Japan, produces a nose of toffee apple, firm caramel, milk chocolate, ground hazelnut, roasted fennel seed, chopped cilantro stalks, green banana, and struck match. Cereal-led palate with Golden Grahams, light fruits of apricot, peach, and melon, base notes of pepper, moving through butterscotch, toffee, maple syrup, and creme caramel. (U.S. Exclusive)—JM GERMAN 93 Eifel Single Malt (2019 Edition), 46%, $70 This latest unpeated vintage has aromas of maple syrup, peanut brittle, sesame snaps, aged balsamic, stretchy cherry taffy, toasted coconut, and snuff tobacco. It’s 6 years old, comprising a primary maturation in refill red wine barrels and a 2-year…

How was your lock-in? Get twitchy with cabin fever, did you? Try to bribe the UPS guy to take you for a ride? Listen to “War and Peace” on tape, twice? Download the Osmond’s Greatest Hits? Mine was a piece of cake because I’ve been through long months of staying inside before—drinking in place, as it were. It was a piece of oat cake, actually, because my first time was on the occasion of a malt whisky release celebration in the far north of Scotland. We were a dozen miles outside of Inverness at the New Olden Golden Caledonian Distillery, where they were about to release a new expression—Old Ironsides, a 14 year old single malt finished for 18 months in a nail barrel. Quite bracing it is, and the…