Innholdsfortegnelse for Winter 2018 i Whisky Advocate

You might not think of Tucson as one of the world’s great food cities, but the United Nations begs to differ: UNESCO designated the southern Arizona metropolis as a World City of Gastronomy in 2015—the first city in the United States to earn the honor. Founded by the Spanish in 1775, Tucson is home to the longest-established agricultural tradition in the country and is uniquely situated at the intersection of three cultures that have coexisted for centuries: American, Mexican, and Native American. All three influences are alive and well in the present day, revitalized by the modern interest in regionality, locavorism, and sustainable development. That enthusiasm also appears in the city’s burgeoning drinks scene, making Tucson home to an array of distinctly Southwestern potables. Tucson is only a quarter the…

One of the best parts of traveling to whisky-producing countries is bringing home rare whisky souvenirs—or toting bourbon and rye from the U.S. for your whisky-loving friends. How many bottles can you bring? How much will it cost? Can you keep it in your carry-on? Here’s a handy guide for U.S. citizens on the move. KEEP CALM AND CARRY ON TINY BOTTLES Much like other liquids, spirits bottles of less than 3.4 oz (a typical minibottle is 1.7 oz) are permitted without limit, as long as they fit “comfortably” in a clear 1-quart zip-top plastic bag. Time to sacrifice your hair conditioner. FORGET THE FLASK Specific flight-friendly flasks are available for purchase, but that doesn’t make them legal. Whether carry-on or checked luggage, spirits and wine are permitted ONLY in…

Every few months, some media outlet drops an exposé about the shady side of the bourbon boom. “In the spirits business, historically, there’s just a lot of shadiness,” said Colin Spoelman, co-founder and master distiller of Kings County Distillery, in a recent NBC News interview. ‘Makers vs. fakers’ is how some characterize the issue, but that is a false dichotomy. It implies that all nonmakers are fakers, whereas ‘fakers’ is merely one subset of ‘non-makers.’ Implying that all non-makers are fakes denigrates the very worthwhile craft of creating and developing brands, which is as vital to the distilled spirits business as yeast. It is admirable if you want to do both: make the product and develop the brand, but there is nothing wrong with just doing one or the other.…

ONCE AGAIN this year Whisky Advocate Buying Guide reviewers collectively sampled and rated hundreds of whiskies. These included rare and extremely limited releases, as well as new and emerging expressoins that will find their way to shelves across the nation. To determine our Top 20, we begin by looking only at whiskies that rated “outstanding” (90 points or higher on Whisky Advocate’s 100-point scale). However, the Top 20 is not simply a collection of our highest-rated whiskies, because many of those are so limited they would be impossible for most readers to locate or purchase. Therefore, in addition to quality (based on score), our selection also prioritizes value (based on price) and availability. The whiskies that meet the criteria are subjected to a series of blind tastings, culminating with a…

Marvin R. Shanken has been the editor and publisher of Shanken’s Impact Wine and Spirits Newsletter since 1973, and in 1988 was inducted into Scotland’s Keepers of the Quaich. Shanken has decades of experience conducting blind tastings for both Wine Spectator and Cigar Aficionado, for which he is also editor and publisher. In 2010, Shanken acquired Malt Advocate magazine, which later became Whisky Advocate. He became editor and publisher in 2016. Jonny McCormick, contributing editor, makes his home in Scotland, surrounded by single malt distilleries, and holds the honor of Keeper of the Quaich. A leading authority on rare and collectible whisky, he began writing for Whisky Advocate in 2006. McCormick applies his diverse whisky experience as the lead Buying Guide reviewer for blended scotch, blended malt, grain, Irish, Japanese, and…

In 1992, the European Union introduced a system of geographical indications (GI) for unique foods and beverages of its member countries. Alongside Roquefort cheese and Beaujolais wine, France received GI status for whiskies from two regions—Brittany and Alsace—whose parameters were later formalized through stringent definitions. These GIs serve to offer consumer assurances, similar to the other existing EU GIs for scotch and Irish whiskey. When developing a proposed definition to cover the entire country’s whisky production, the Fédération du Whisky de France had to make its guidelines broad enough to envelop the existing GIs for Brittany and Alsace. There is no requirement for whisky distillers in Brittany and Alsace to adhere to the GI regulations; some, like the Meyer’s blend, do not meet the criteria and simply avoid using the…

92 Kirkland 20 year old Sherry Cask Finished Speyside single malt scotch, 46%, $58 A classic sherry bomb, with milk chocolate, raisins, brown sugar, hazelnuts, cloves, almonds, and plenty of oak. 91 Kirkland 7 year old Tennessee Straight Bourbon (Batch T-1796), 51.5%, $30 Big-boned and assertive, it has full flavors of orange peel, root beer, gingerbread, cooked berries, and well-integrated oak. 90 Kirkland 18 year old Sherry Cask Finished Speyside single malt scotch, 46%, $54 Lush, well-aged, and richly sherried with flavors of candied violet, nougat, ginger, and orange oil. 90 Trader Joe’s Glen Moray 16 year old Speyside single malt scotch (Distilled in 2001), 40%, $40 Layers of rich fruits, gentle spice, cigar wrapper, chocolate, and oak come together in a symphony of flavor. 87 Trader Joe’s Ardmore 10…

Midleton Dair Ghaelach Bluebell Forest Edition ($280) This release came from 29 casks made from six oak trees grown sustainably in the Bluebell Forest of the Castle Blunden Estate, Co. Kilkenny. They were filled with single pot still whiskey aged for 12 to 23 years and finished for 19 months. Ardbeg Kelpie ($119) Ardbeg spirit was filled into tight-grained, virgin Russian oak casks with a medium to heavy toast. The Kelpie recipe blends these Black Sea casks from the Fanagoria cooperage with classic bourbon-matured Ardbeg to produce a robust whisky with oily peat, brine, tar, pepper, bacon, menthol, and dark chocolate. (Ardbeg Committee Reserve pictured) Laphroaig Quarter Cask ($54) First released in 2004. Mature peaty Islay whiskies are finished in quarter casks. The reduced internal volume of smaller barrels boosts…

The Buying Guide provides ratings of whiskies from around the world with an emphasis on new releases available for purchase in the U.S. Complete tasting notes are provided for all whiskies scoring 84 points or more (on the Whisky Advocate 100-point scale). Lower scoring whiskies are included at the discretion of the editors, and some may appear exclusively on whiskyadvocate.com. RATINGS AND PRICES Ratings are to provide a relative comparison of quality with reference to both directly competing products and whiskies in general. Price is not a consideration when arriving at ratings. Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. When none is available, we establish a representative retail price. Actual retail prices may vary. Whiskies sold in the U.S. have prices marked in dollars; any whisky priced in other currency…

BOURBON 94 Russell’s Reserve 2002, 57.3%, $250 Lovely aromas of warm banana bread with toasted nuts are met with oak and underlying savory notes of garden soil, mushroom, barnyard, and menthol that build layers of complexity. The flavor similarly melds sweet and earthy notes, as Bit-O-Honey and grape candy yield to zesty lemon, drying tobacco leaf, and polished oak tannins. The sweetness, perfectly permeated with earthy complexity, is totally captivating, made complete by a long and satisfying finish laced with spices.—JL 93 Four Roses Single Barrel (No. 29-50), 50%, $42 This big, sweet, warming bourbon strikes all the right chords. Sizzling sweet corn meets generous oak, like dusty old books, but the bright peach nectar, wet walnuts, and vibrant spice beam through in abundance. Unctuous and concentrated on the palate,…

IRISH SINGLE MALT 96 Bushmills 21 year old, 40%, $150 Bushmills’ sumptuous magnum opus spins aromas of sultana, brown sugar, walnut oil, date slice, chocolate-covered cranberries, leather gloves, and a hint of espresso. The dark, crepuscular mystique continues in the syrupy mouthfeel redolent of forest honey, banana bread, nuts, browned butter, sultana, date, and blackberry. Utterly beguiling, the Madeira finish works wonders here, right through to the last moments of the smooth, sweet finish. A must-try for all.—JM 94 Knappogue Castle 21 year old, 46%, $200 A limited-release vatting of triple distilled, bourbon cask-matured spirit distilled in 1994 and 1996. This immersive and intense whiskey has waves of honey and fruit sweetness, floral and herbal notes, melting butter on fruit scones, macaroon bar, vanilla pod, candied grapefruit peel, and faint…

PRAISE FOR PEAT COVERAGE Dear Whisky Advocate, I like whisky and I like reading about it. My wife got me one of those coffee-table books a few years ago that weighs ten pounds so I could learn about what is involved in the whole whisky thing. I have read many of your past editions, but I thought this one, Fall, was terrific. It educated in a simple to read way: peat, production, process. I learned about smoke. I liked turning open the cover page with its soft and rich (it’s the only word I can think of) feel. I never write about this kind of stuff, but I had to. Real nice job. I skipped a few editions in the past year because (I thought) they sort of said the…

Dave Pickerell, former Maker’s Mark master distiller and the creative force behind such whiskeys as WhistlePig, Metallica’s Blackened, and Hillrock Estate, passed away on November 1, 2018 in San Francisco. He was 62. With his signature wide-brimmed hat, huge smile, and warm embraces, Pickerell was a beloved and legendary figure in American whiskey. He was a 1978 graduate of the United States Military Academy at West Point, where he played football. He later earned a master’s degree in chemical engineering from the University of Louisville. That expertise led him to a position at Maker’s Mark starting in 1994; for the next fourteen years he oversaw the creation of the Kentucky bourbon just as American whiskey was slowly emerging from a period of low demand. Pickerell was charged with ramping up…

Think Big Create large ice blocks by freezing water in quart containers or large Tupperware a few days in advance. “That helps a little with the ice not melting too quickly,” explains Dusty Grable, director of beverage at Merriman’s, Honolulu, Hawaii. Divide and Conquer After mixing well, funnel the punch into several 750-milliliter bottles (reuse the bottles from the ingredients in your punch), Grable suggests. They’re easier to handle than large containers and store easily in a cooler or refrigerator until it’s time to replenish the bowl. Bowl Over While punch bowls are stylish, a large sun tea jar works better for batches on the move. “Make sure the spigot is closed tight and use a piece of plastic wrap over the top before you seal the lid in case…

Amaro Angeleno 23%, $35 Based on the flavor and personality of southern California, Angeleno has a laid-back energy informed by Ojai oranges, honey, and local herbs. TRY IT IN Angeleno Heights, the company’s own bourbon or rye cocktail; amaro.la Amaro Averna 29%, $30 This Sicilian import is a good gateway, with its sweet notes, compared with tarter amari. Cinnamon and licorice meet caramel and lemon. TRY IT IN Mezcal Negroni with mezcal and sweet vermouth Amaro Nonino 35%, $50 Hailing from Friuli, Italy, this is a grappabased amaro that combines oranges, cinnamon, licorice, and quinine with the sweet funk of the wine. TRY IT IN Old-Fashioned, with sugar and cherries, but no other bitters Campari 24%, $28 This well-known amaro lives up to its bitter reputation, but is perhaps better…

It seems like these days just about every imaginable food and drink has its own ‘national day,’ and chicken wings are no exception. But while this most Buffalonian of snack foods may be celebrated yearly on July 29th, that is not when the most wings are eaten. According to the founder and head of the National Buffalo Wing Festival, Drew Cerza, the number-one occasion for chicken wings is the Super Bowl. The National Chicken Council agrees, reporting that some 1.35 billion wings were consumed during the Eagles-Patriots game, up 1.5% from 2017 and likely to be eclipsed in 2019. About three-quarters of those wings are cooked at restaurants, and although precise numbers don’t exist, it’s a safe bet that a large proportion are eaten alongside bottles, cans, pints, or pitchers…

Many people we meet keep whisky close to their heart. Nowhere is that more evident than in the world of pins. These inexpensive souvenirs can be found in distillery gift shops and online. Like a secret language of our travels, appreciation, and allegiance, pins are one more way whisky lovers stick together. Stranahan's • Elijah Craig $4 at Heaven Hill visitor centers • WhistlePig • Highland Park £3; highlandparkwhisky.com • Kilchoman £2 at visitor center • High West • Maker's Mark $3; makersmarkshop.com • Westland $10; westlanddistillery.com • Larceny $4 at Heaven Hill visitor centers • Wild Turkey $5 at distillery visitor center • Penderyn free with club membership; penderynstore.com (Styles may vary. Unless otherwise noted, pin is offered as a free promotional item at select events.)…

Believe me, I was minding my business at the bar; I really didn’t mean to get involved. Three women in their early twenties approached to order more drinks, one of them catching the attention of the bearded bartender. Tucking her hair behind her ear, the woman traced her finger down the whisky list and ordered a Macallan Double Cask. She wasn’t local, I surmised; Slavic vowels hinted at her country of origin, her left hand surreptitiously clutching British banknotes sufficient to exceed the cost of the round. This joint is a regular hangout of mine when journeying through the Scottish Highlands. It’s nothing fancy: clean, swept floors, a regular rotation of craft beers on tap, a cramped kitchen cranking out uncomplicated dishes, and two televisions tuned to the same sports…

1 Nikka From the Barrel 51.4%, $65 PANEL RATING 94 JAPANESE BLENDED For Nikka From the Barrel, it’s been a long road to Whisky of the Year. This Japanese blend made its U.S. debut in 2018, but its inception dates back more than 30 years. In 1985, Nikka Whisky Distilling Company’s blending team, led by Shigeo Sato, designed this whisky using both malt and grain whiskies produced at Nikka’s Yoichi and Miyagikyo Distilleries. When taking into account the full array of casks—bourbon barrels, sherry butts, refill hogsheads, and more—over 100 different constituent whiskies are enlisted. “From the Barrel” suggests barrel proof, but that’s not the case. The blenders made a conscious decision to bottle at 51.4% (derived from 90 British Proof) to deliver maximum flavor impact. They succeeded. Notably balanced…

Shieldaig 18 year old will delight fans of Speyside scotch with its flower bouquet, candied fruit, nuts, and sweet oak flavors. Just as impressive is its bargain price—$47, a fraction of what other 18 year old single malts command. According to its label, Shieldaig is from “the Loch of Herring,” a place in the Torridon Hills of Scotland’s northwest Highlands—far from Speyside, or from Islay, where Shieldaig’s 14 year old single malt is made. No one has ever seen the mysterious Shieldaig Distillery: it doesn’t exist. The whisky was created for mega-retailer Total Wine & More. Big-box stores like Costco and Walmart and grocers like Trader Joe’s also sell their own privatelabel whiskies. These bottles are created specifically and exclusively for large retailers and go by either a fictitious brand…

While some store brands like Costco’s Kirkland and the eponymous Trader Joe’s are easy to spot, others are well camouflaged. Walmart uses the proprietary names Granndach and Douhans. Total Wine offers dozens of different private-label scotches, bourbons, Irish, Canadian, and other whiskies, none of them explicitly labeled as a house brand. In fact, much of the packaging takes pains to appear identical in provenance and heritage to name-brand whiskies, with names referencing real places in Scotland and slogans such as “The Independent Spirit…A True Legend Since 1561.” The biggest clue, however, is whether the bottle is part of Total Wine’s “Spirits Direct” program. This moniker applies to whiskies either created for Total Wine or sold only at Total Wine stores in the U.S. (Some states, like Minnesota, require all retailers…

Best Values Whiskies with solid scores, modest prices, and wide availability. IRISH BLENDED 88 Tullamore D.E.W. Original, 40%, $24 Triple distilled classic containing a blend of pot still, malt, and grain whiskeys, this layers aromas of spice over toffee, creamy banana, light vanilla, sharp green apple, and zested limes. Aromatic spices quickly beat the established flavors of green fruits, followed by vanilla fudge, malty notes, peppercorn, and even a little oak char. This moreish, well-structured whiskey retains its creamy mouthfeel throughout the active, spicy finish.—JM BLENDED SCOTCH 88 White Walker by Johnnie Walker, 41.7%, $36 Chillingly good bottle for winter, this Game of Thrones tie-in sees a rakish striding man donning body armor, gripping an ice blade, and nodding a frosty greeting through glowing blue eyes. Room temperature aromas speak…

FRENCH SINGLE MALT 93 Armorik Double Maturation, 46%, $60 This is one of those whiskies where one sip will convert you to its delights. Fruit salad with fresh apple and lime, fruit-flavored hard candy, roasted aromatic spices, salted potato skins, and digestive biscuits. A moreish palate of salted caramel, musty chocolate, sweet fruits, viennoiseries, creamy caramels, malt, and gentle spices, which peaks during the finish leaving baked apple flavors and late sherry notes. Don’t pass this up.—JM 92 Domaine des Hautes Glaces 100% Organic Rye (Cask #79), 53.1%, $90 Explore the layers of this malted rye. It is herbaceous and minerally throughout, with aromas of licorice, chamomile, ginger, tarragon, incense, cooked pears, bread dough, cinnamon, and soil. The flavors express grain, minerals, and earth—tarragon, licorice, peppercorn, roasted peaches, walnut shells,…

Whisky and sweet vermouth aren’t just pals, they’re best buds. They do everything together. Sweet vermouth, with its velvety mouthfeel, is a captivating cocktail partner for almost any whisky. A two-to-one ratio of rye (or bourbon) and vermouth is a Manhattan; replace the rye with scotch, and you have a Rob Roy. It’s that simple. “Whisky and sweet vermouth have some similar flavors and aromas, including the sweetness of both products,” explains Trevor Frye, proprietor of Wash Line LLC, and the one-time beverage director at Washington, D.C.’s Jack Rose Dining Saloon. As you dip your toes into the waters of home cocktailing, it’s a foolproof combination that should inspire you to continue wading deeper. The trick is finding the sweet vermouth that best suits your whisky. Certain varieties may work…

In Scotland, malt whisky is always made using 100% malted barley. In the U.S. many malt whiskeys (especially those labeled “single malt”) are made with 100% malted barley, as well. But they don’t have to be: U.S. regulations stipulate that malt whiskey is only required to have a minimum of 51% malted barley in the mashbill. Like bourbon and rye, the maximum proofs for distillation and barrel entry for American malt whiskey are 160 and 125, respectively. Additionally, it must be stored in new, charred oak barrels. Therefore, American malt whiskeys are closer kissing cousins to bourbon and American rye than they are to scotch single malts. Taking advantage of the U.S. definition, Woodford Reserve’s Kentucky straight malt whiskey is made from a mashbill of 51% malted barley, 47% corn,…

CLOVE Wild Turkey 101 vanilla, butterscotch, and a roaring intensity of baking spices NUTMEG Compass Box Spice Tree French oak spiciness collides with banana, malt, and orchard fruits CINNAMON Four Roses caramel and citrus support a riot of cinnamondominated spices THRICE THE SPICE Search for these popular baking spices in your whisky by sipping and waiting for them to ricochet in your mouth like a cue ball slamming into the pack. Just as spices transform the act of eating from functional to pleasurable, spice flavors can enliven whisky. Baking spices in particular evoke holiday scents wafting from the kitchen, and the sensations of fresh pastries served warm from the bakery. The impression of baking spices—we’re talking mainly about cinnamon, nutmeg, star anise, clove, and allspice—adds warmth, color, and complexity to the…

When a distillery releases a whisky with a substantially higher price tag than they ever dared before, many whisky enthusiasts balk at their audacity. Numerous bottlings have had moments like this; for example, Ardbeg 1965, Balvenie Cask 191, Black Bowmore 1964 42 year old, Highland Park 50 year old, and Macallan in Lalique 50 year old. At these moments collectors are being asked to take a leap of faith into the unknown. Only a small number are willing to jump. It takes foresight, courage, deep pockets, and plenty of patience. Enterprising collectors appraised and bought them. There is another shrewd moment to strike, but it’s more difficult to detect: the beginning of the uptick. This is when existing releases start to climb to a much higher level of appreciation, such…

Every chef worthy of the title understands that each person who sits down to enjoy their cuisine does so first with the eyes, then the nose, and lastly with the less-discerning sense of taste. This is the reason kitchen brigades the world over take pains to present their plates in the most attractive manner possible. Drink is hardly immune to this visual-first approach. It is why, for example, stemware is considered crucial to the success of a top-end wine program, and why many of the best cocktails can take as long to garnish as they do to create. It is also why, for those who like their whiskey chilled, a bourbon poured over an oversized sphere of ice appeals more than does one cooled with tiny, quick-melting cubes, and why…

Islands have always held special allure in the world of whisky. Scotch whiskies from the islands of Islay, Skye, and Orkney are renowned for their salty, often smoky character. Meanwhile, America’s traditional whiskey heartlands of Kentucky and Tennessee are located in hilly uplands far from the sea. But now, whiskey is being made in every parcel of the United States, including those surrounded by water. Pummeled by Nor’easters and gales, America’s island distillers produce whiskeys that owe as much to the Scottish isles as to their compatriots in Kentucky and Tennessee. These are whiskeys that capture the essence of the sea. Worlds Apart Windswept Nantucket, 30 miles off the coast of Cape Cod, has been a nautical haven for centuries. The island grew fat on whale blubber, and even today…

When the Whisky Advocate tasting panel put dozens of private-label scotches, bourbons, ryes, Irish, and Canadian whiskies to the blind taste-test, comparing them to name brands of the same style and age, we found a few broad takeaways. Nothing Special AMERICAN WHISKEYS We found few amazing deals here. In some cases, the private-label bourbons and ryes fell well below the quality level of their comparably priced name-brand peers. Kirkland 7 year old Tennessee straight bourbon was one exception. It stood out for its well-integrated array of flavors and hefty proof (51.5% ABV) at $30 a bottle. Familiar Friends BLENDS, IRISH, AND CANADIAN The private-label versions of certain styles of whisky—namely blended scotch, Canadian, and Irish—compare well with their leading brand counterparts. We liked Olde Point 4 year old Canadian whisky…

The majority of whisky barrels are mass-produced, utilitarian items—ready-to-wear in fashion parlance. But sometimes, you want to dress your whisky in something custom, much like a bespoke suit is made to the customer’s exacting specifications, with particular finishing touches like a ticket pocket, turnback cuffs, or horn buttons. Distillers ordering bespoke casks are looking for the same sort of custom tailoring from their cooper, as they aim to make new discoveries, expand the boundaries of flavor, and turn heads. Rather than chasing fashion, bespoke casks can embellish a whisky with a style all its own. Hip to be Square There’s something wonderfully spherical about the word ‘cooper.’ Write it down and feel how all six letters require a curving, looping motion of the hand to form the letters. Like visual…

SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALTS 91 Mortlach 16 year old Distiller’s Dram, 43.4%, $100 See Editors’ Choice, page 133 90 Balvenie DoubleWood 25 year old, 43%, $600 This limited edition bottling celebrates the 25th anniversary of the DoubleWood releases. DoubleWood malts are initially matured in bourbon casks before a second period in European oak sherry casks. Classic Balvenie honey, orchard fruits, toffee, and oak on the nose. The palate is voluptuous, with orange, honey, ginger, and milk chocolate. Spicy sherry in the rich, long finish. (3,600 bottles)—GS 89 Mortlach 20 year old Cowie’s Blue Seal, 43.4%, $200 Named in honor of the family that owned Mortlach for many years, this was matured in sherry wood, like its 16 year old sibling. Milk chocolate, nuts, and coffee on the nose, with developing meaty…

GlenAllachie has unveiled its first core range of single malts since the distillery was sold by Pernod Ricard in October 2017 to a new private firm, headed by Scotch whisky industry veteran and former managing director of BenRiach Distillery Company Billy Walker. 89 GlenAllachie 12 year old, 46%, $60 This expression is described by the distillers as “the heart of our range.” Matured in virgin oak, Pedro Ximénez, and oloroso casks. Oily on the nose, with ripe banana and a hint of oak. Quite full-bodied and slick on the palate, with vanilla, honey, and almonds. Milk chocolate and lime in the medium-length finish.—GS 89 GlenAllachie 10 year old Cask Strength (Batch 1), 57.1%, $80 This is the first batch of the only cask-strength bottling in the lineup and was matured…

ISLAND SINGLE MALT 90 Jura One For You 18 year old, 52.5%, £130 This is the final release in a three-part series that began in 2016 with One For The Road, followed by One For All. Initially aged for 18 years in bourbon barrels, then finished in virgin American oak quarter casks. The nose features tinned peach segments, coconut, and white pepper. The palate offers caramel, marzipan, almonds, and sultanas. Dark chocolate, raisins, and black pepper in the finish.—GS BLENDED MALT SCOTCH 88 Berry Bros & Rudd The Classic Range Sherry Cask Matured, 44.2%, £32 This is rich in cask characters, with baked orange, pronounced nutmeg notes, mace, peppercorn, and petrichor. The opening flavors of dark orange and syrupy caramel swerve headlong into pepper, root ginger, allspice, and nippy clove.…

Once upon a word processor, I was forced to use an alias. Well, not forced exactly, but I was on contract to a national magazine that paid me an unconscionable amount of money to knock out a monthly cocktail column, when another national magazine asked me to scribble about hooch from time to time. Now the first megagenerous journal prohibited my writing for several similar magazines, but they skipped this one. I won’t tell you the players’ names, but the generous magazine’s initials were G and Q, and the other one was widely read for its articles, but also specialized in pictures of naked women. Being of sound mind and disinclined to bite the hand that was feeding me all that money (let’s call it, oh, three or four times…