Innholdsfortegnelse for Fall Winter 2019 i Vogue Hommes English Version

Duane Michals, who is contributing to Vogue Hommes for the first time, is 87. It’s hard to be believe, as this mischievous bundle of energy, talking to us from New York, still has an incredible freshness and vitality. For certain observers, he is one of the great conceptual minds of the 20th century. His photographic series, or sequences, covered in words and poems, let the light devour the subject, and raise the question of man in the face of time passing, like no other. Barthes, Foucault and Bellour held him in high esteem. For others, he was an incredible portraitist, who refused to set up a studio and worked like an amateur. There was a portrait of Johnny Cash, for example, in which the singer was inside, in the shadow…

EVENING PERFECT ALL NIGHTER THE DAY AFTER The ideal choice for keeping tired eyes out of sight. HEAD STRONG Yes to hats in all shapes and sizes. IT BAG BOOT CAMP IMMACULATE CREATION Trainers, in dominant white give blacka kickstart.…

One metre eighty–seven, an elegantly sculpted physique, almond eyes and brown curls, which would have been Pasolini’s ruin, Fernando Lindez is the season’s “feline”. Catwalks, photo shoots, adverts… have all fallen under the spell of the young Spaniard, who is following in the footsteps of his eminent fellow countrymen Jon Kortajarena and Andres Velencoso. VOGUE HOMMES What do you see when you look at yourself in the mirror? FERNANDO LINDEZ I see a 19–year–old boy who stays the same, with the same friends and hobbies, but aware of how lucky he is and of the great challenges ahead. VOGUE HOMMES You opened the last Versace Autumn/Winter show. How would you describe the experience? FERNANDO LINDEZ The Versace show was my first big runway experience. It’s something I’ll never forget. I…

ANIMAL MAGNETISM As if he were venturing deeper into the depths of a forest, François Demachy has taken the cursors of Sauvage up a notch. The perfumer has added a zest of juicy mandarin to the freshness of bergamot, and stepped up the woody notes with an animal accord of leather and the enveloping essence of sandalwood. Sauvage, Le Parfum, Dior, 60 ml, €99. BLACK & WHITE Designed to reflect the duality of the male identity, L’Homme Prada is a subtle “half–tone” fragrance. On one side, there are the fresh neroli and violet facets, and on the other the depth of patchouli and amber. A clever contrast that is echoed in the opaque black Saffiano that covers one side of the bottle, while the other is translucent. L’Homme Prada, 100…

STEPHAN CRASNEANSCKI Before we discuss our project, I’d like to know what the colour black — the theme of this issue of Vogue Hommes evokes for you? PATTI SMITH The first thought is always Rimbaud’s declaration in his poem “Vowels”. A Black. Endlessly contemplating his choice. It evokes the poet, the outsider, it evokes freedom. Dancing to “Paint it Black” by the Rolling Stones as a teenager, smelling a revolution. Nina Simone’s “Black Swan”. Patty Waters haunting version of “Black is the Colour”. Listening to Deep Purple’s “Black Night” loud on a car radio. Amy Winehouse’s dark, defiant “Back to Black”. In poetry I think of Sylvia Plath’s voice as she reads “Black Rook in Rainy Weather”: “Its black feathers so shine /As to seize my senses… She speaks of…

Fashion is not only about clothes, even though it all starts and ends with them. Nobody knows this better than Miuccia Prada. Mrs Prada — as she is known, not without a certain reverence, in her company — still calls herself a fashion designer, even if other terms would also apply fittingly to her. A provocateur, absolutely. A thinker, in a certain sense. Above all, an accurate and watchful observer of what is going on around her, within and without the world of fashion. The fruit of all this conjecture are clear–cut visions of male and female clothing and the unique programme of the Prada Foundation, the institution that has been invigorating Milan’s cultural life since 2015, and even more. The concrete and the imaginary are intricately interwoven in the…

Velvet. Velvet eyes, velvet voice, velvet barnet, velvet chest, velvet loafers, velvet toes: everything is 100 per cent pure velvet with Julio Iglesias, the Spanish conquistador who has sold no fewer than 300 million albums and recorded 78 to date in 14 languages, including Japanese (because the important thing is to grasp the timbre of a language, not necessarily to speak it well if you want to pierce the hearts of a swooning audience). At 75 and after a career spanning half a century, Julio Iglesias, who has never claimed to be cool, but “popular” to his fingertips, is on the point (very much against his will) of emerging as an inspiring fashion icon. “He’s cult”, says an expert in emerging trends, who recently saw an ultra–sophisticated New York socialite…

Punk at Comme des Garçons, romantic at Homme Dior, oversized at Raf Simons, ultra–stylised at Prada, coolly new wave at Celine by Hedi Slimane… black forged its way onto the catwalks to become the ultimate character trait for winter. This is the first time Vogue Hommes has built an entire issue around a trend: no easy task when that trend is black. A symbol of modern elegance and a chromatic obsession for fashion’s great reformers, from Chanel to Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and the maverick Japanese designers of the 1980s (Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo), it seemed we had exhausted black’s every possibility. And so the challenge facing Vogue Hommes is to take this most fundamental of colours into new territory. Another country. That country could be the “ultra–black” imagined by…

“Art is the shortest route man to man”…

It began when film–maker Spike Jonze posted a video on You-Tube in 2011. In it, renowned cellist Yo–Yo Ma plays The Swan from Camille Saint–Saëns’ Carnival of the Animals, accompanied, at times grazed by an unknown black dancer — a young man in typical hip–hop garb of high–tops and baseball cap who mixes Michael Jackson–style gliding movements with spins en pointe, wrist rolls and ronds de jambe in a seamless fusion of street dance and classical ballet. The result is astounding in its grace, fluidity, musicality and poetry. The world marvelled at Charles “Lil Buck” Riley, from Memphis, Tennessee. He was 23 at the time, and had been dancing for ten years already. One of eight siblings growing up in a poor household, he came to dance through jookin, a…

You could sum up this story in three emoji: a horse, an apple and a watch. Or is it a case of opposites attract? On the right, Hermès, a saddle–maker established in an age when horses were everywhere that built its legend on their disappearance; on the left, Apple, a personal computer manufacturer established in an age when personal computers didn’t exist that built its fortune on their omnipresence. Two major shifts in civilisation and two contrasting approaches that are, perhaps, characteristic of the companies in question: luxury à la française and the American way of life. We could talk about the quest for excellence and intelligent design. We could allude to shared values, but the most fascinating thing about this collaboration is that two worlds that could not be…

IN THE BEGINNING, THE COLOUR OF LABOUR Obtained through calcination, from Antiquity through to the Middle Ages, black was symbolic of labour. White was reserved for prayer and red for battle. 1419 THE COLOUR OF MOURNING Black clothing became more widespread in the late Middle Ages after the powerful Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, wore black as a sign of mourning for his father, John the Fearless, assassinated in 1419. Immediately, the prince’s subjects and courtesans began to imitate this new style of dress. Philip’s influence spread as far as other European courts: Charles V of Spain wore black his entire life. 1670–1789 BLACK NO MORE A symbol of power, integrity and dignity at the beginning of the Ancien Régime, during the Age of Enlightenment, black was eclipsed by…

SKIN BOOST It takes no more than ten minutes for a thick layer of this mask–cream to smooth away the lines that appear after a long day of dehydration. The secret? An extract of black rose and Padina Pavonica alga, which illuminates the complexion. Black Rose Cream Mask, Sisley, €118. ONYX PEBBLE The height of chic? Chanel has added to its ne plus ultra line and created a rejuvenating, lift formula for your hands. Le Lift Hand Cream, Chanel, €63. DARK VANILLA Colonia, the crystal–clear cologne signature of the Italian perfume house, Acqua di Parma, reveals a new and mysterious facet of vanilla. Transparent when combined with bergamot, it becomes dark when blended with cedar wood. Vaniglia, Acqua di Parma, €205. SOOTY DETOX A creamy bamboo charcoal paste that traps…

It’s a Jamie Morgan photo. The portrait of a little boy called Felix, who appears in a Madonna video, filmed by Mondino. Felix was the mascot of the Buffalo Collective, a group of Londoners — a cross between bodyguard and stylism, black men, Indian jewellery, leather skirts and accessories from westerns — set up around the stylist Ray Petri circa 1984. He associated black with innocence and a delightful pout. Thirty–five years on, I would gladly choose him as a symbol of male elegance in black. As a child, Ray Petri must have loved Zorro, like all the kids at the time. My neighbour across the hall put me off him completely. It was 1965, the first time that the French state TV channel, ORTF, broadcast the series starring Guy…

ANDY WARHOL “If everybody’s not a beauty, then nobody is…”…