Innholdsfortegnelse for 28 i Vogue Hommes English Version

In 2012, to populate her Girl Gone Wild single, Madonna took her inspiration from George Michael’s cult Freedom! ’90 video, filmed years before by David Fincher, featuring the world’s most beautiful models lip–synching the words of the album’s top track, Listen Without Prejudice. In the Mert & Marcus Material Girl video, Cindy, Naomi, Christy, Tatjana and Linda were replaced by a top squad of male counterparts, including Simon Nessman, shot in the buff in sultry black and white. That’s all it took to set his credentials in stone, which is something of a rarity in the world of fashion. Born in Canada going on 30 years ago, Simon’s success has few comparisons: measuring 1m88, with an enviable physique, a pout like Salvador Dali’s Mae West Lips sofa, and a tumble…

“God is black”, the Umit Benan runway show was one of the highlights of the Spring/Summer 2019 season. A strong collection pared down to the essential skilfully melding the spirit of Malcolm X, Martin Luther King, Tupac Shakur, striped djellabas, trousers and a saharienne in linen, wild silk pyjamas, carbon or immaculate suits and tuxedo jackets… Impeccable. VOGUE HOMMES What are you wearing in the photo? UMIT BENAN Cotton and linen workwear trousers, a white kaftan shirt, a terrycloth blue robe and a green wool and cashmere coat, all Umit Benan. VOGUE HOMMES What is the spirit of Umit Benan’s style? UMIT BENAN I’d say it’s street sartorial. Where rules don’t exist. But you’ve got to have the right masculine attitude. I’d say in winter, it would be cotton workwear…

REVERSO CLASSIC MEDIUM DUETTO BY JAEGER–LECOULTRE Still the epitome of good taste, here with an automatic movement delivering 38 hours of power reserve and two reversible dials: white for daytime and black hemmed with diamonds for night… or vice versa. ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE BY AUDEMARS PIGUET That most stylish of sport watches, here in an automatic chronograph version featuring a grey ruthenium dial with Mega Tapisserie decoration and black ceramic pushers. 100–metre depth rating. 42mm diameter. RM 63–01 DIZZY HANDS BY RICHARD MILLE At the push of a button, this original “dizzy hands” complication has the numerals turn in the opposite direction to the hour hand, for the sheer beauty of the moment. Automatic skeleton movement. 42mm diameter. VINTAGE WW1 BY BELL & ROSS For the view of the balance…

VOGUE HOMMES How would you define your style? BEN COBB Elegant, masculine, classic and with a little flesh on show. VOGUE HOMMES What are the key pieces in your wardrobe? BEN COBB I love beautiful tailoring. Jackets with strong shoulders and wide lapels. Fitted trousers with a flare. And I always like a bit of a heel. VOGUE HOMMES What are your favourite vintage items? BEN COBB At the moment, my favourite is a 1970s’ brown YSL blazer with gold buttons: it’s long like a riding jacket, has super wide lapels and is very tight on the waist — a great shape. My biggest vintage obsession is probably cowboy shirts. VOGUE HOMMES Tailoring? BEN COBB The ultimate has to be Edward Sexton. Edward worked at Tommy Nutter, revolutionising Savile Row…

“Shaïn bright like a diamond”. Rihanna, the jewel of Barbados, is sure to make allowances for it, as imitations can sometimes be a good thing. Shaïn Boumedine does shine like a diamond, with all the facets of youth and unexplored potential. The effect he has, his aura, did not go unnoticed by the audiences who saw Mektoub my love: canto uno, Abdellatif Kechiche’s sixth full–length feature film, which hit the screens in March, and in which Shaïn plays the lead, in his first film role. He is Amin, an aspiring screenwriter, who returns to his birthplace, Sète, in the south of France, for the summer. His parents own a restaurant there. In the heat of the southern sun, with family, friends and some rather beguiling female holidaymakers, the young man…

It all began at a dinner for the editorial team to discuss the yet to be chosen theme for the issue of Vogue Hommes you are now holding. As ideas were batted around without any one being really convincing, the conversation suddenly gelled around the concept of “chic”. What does chic mean today? Who is chic? Who isn’t? Has cool done for chic? Can you be chic without looking old? Does anyone care about chic? What if chic were quite simply dead and buried? The discussion was spirited, even a tad rancorous, a sure sign that chic was worth devoting an entire issue to. Then there were the Spring/Summer runway shows and the musical chairs, especially at the top of flagships like Dior and Louis Vuitton, plus the tidal wave…

THE TOP LOOKS THIS SEASON PERSONAL MESSAGE Bottega Veneta, the leather blockbuster bag in glove leather tagliatelli, has won more fun stripes. It is now possible to have your initials tattooed in a range of pop or more conventional colours. It is even possible to do likewise on all of Bottega Veneta bags, so why miss out? CULT RED Twenty years ago, Prada launched Linea Rossa, shrewdly leading the field in what would turn out be a fashion tidal wave in the noughties: the groundswell of sportswear references, technical fabrics and the pre–eminence of “cool” in the male wardrobe. Despite the massive popularity of the line, Prada subsequently put it to bed. Now the House has decided to cleverly resurrect it, with immaculate, functional tailoring, impeccable design, a welter of…

Patience is a virtue, and it took no small amount before Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent men’s silhouette finally stepped into the light. Two years into his tenure at the head of the ne plus ultra of Parisian fashion and luxury, the Italo–Belgian chose New York and the late–evening banks of the Hudson River to set loose a gang of sassy boys in black leather safari jackets, glittering embroidered bomber jackets, snakeskin blazers, see–through shirts open to the wind and skin–tight jeans dripping with caviar sequins. It was a carefully dosed cocktail that riffed many of Yves Saint Laurent’s own references, from Marrakesh to gender–bending, from black to brazenness, to bad–boy vibe. A show away from home turf but very much a tribute. Forty years earlier, Yves Saint Laurent had chosen…

Shortly before he died in 1961, when he had planned to write his autobiography, the Maharaja Yashwant Rao Holkar II, the last sovereign of the State of Indore in India, burnt all his correspondence, notably with Henri–Pierre Roché, the cult author of Jules and Jim and Two English Girls, among other texts. It was his way of saying that no one else would write what he hadn’t written himself. Rao Holkar II will forever remain a legendary character, increasingly evanescent as the last eye witnesses of his life disappear. His existence will now be reflected only in the traces left by others, all those people who have become famous, whom the prince knew and loved throughout his travels, and, in particular, during his unique interlude, as young man, at Oxford…

When Mustafa Dawood talks, it’s like opening a bottle of bubbly, his charcoal eyes fizzing the minute you turn to his dawning career as a catwalk model. Back from his Vogue Hommes shoot in Ibiza, he tells us, in a characteristic Indian lilt, that he had been ecstatic about being able to pose for the magazine on the island that had filled his dreams for so long. Born in Hyderabad, southern India, he had never travelled outside his home country until last February, but this was already the fifth time that he had answered Europe’s siren song. Amazingly, he had intended to pass up entering the 2017 edition of the Elite Model Look India competition, having already been knocked back twice, before being selected to represent India in the finals…

VOGUE HOMMES How did you end up working for Gianni Agnelli? STUART THORNTON I was born in the north–east of England, in Newbigginby–the–Sea, a small but quite upmarket seaside resort. My father and mother worked as majordomo and governess for the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland. That’s where I learnt my profession. I then worked for Karim Aga Khan. And in 1974, the Aga Khan invited Mr Gianni Agnelli to Saint–Moritz for the weekend. I must have made a good impression on him, as he immediately suggested I go and work for him. I was tempted, but also a little bothered about leaving the Aga Khan like that. Fortunately, the two men were close friends, so they sorted it out between themselves. VOGUE HOMMES What tempted you about Mr Agnelli’s…

Flashback to a conversation, published in 2010 in a French cultural magazine, between Jean–Luc Godard and Daniel Cohn–Bendit. Both activists in the May 68 student uprisings, they shared much more than those heady days of insurrection and strikes: in the summer of 1969 they came up with the idea for a film, Vent d’est (Wind From the East), a “political western” shot in Rome that ended in one big free–for–all. When Cohn–Bendit arrived at the film–maker’s home in Rolle, he was taken aback to see a team of guys busy stuffing boxes into vans: “Jean–Luc! You’re not seriously getting rid of all these screens, all this equipment, tapes and books and stuff ?” A cigar clenched between his lips, squinting behind oversize glasses, Godard chuckled in response: “No–one’s getting rid…