Innholdsfortegnelse for 27 i Vogue Hommes English Version

BENJAMIN BRUNO — A faithful collaborator on Vogue Hommes, Benjamin Bruno is one of most talented stylists of his generation. Trained up from a young age in the school of Vogue Paris, he is today a serial contributor to the US and Italian editions of the fashion bible, as well as to Self–Service and Arena Hommes+. While serving as the creative other half of designer Jonathan Anderson for his eponymous brand and for Loewe, Benjamin also shares his unique brand of inspiration and passion with Tony Burch (whom he “adores”). At present, he lives in London and his key selling point is that the only thing to match his virtuosity is his sheer niceness. He styled the cover for this latest issue as well as the “Beyond Beauty” series, in…

Massimo Dutti chose Paris and the contemporary art Mecca of the Palais de Tokyo as the venue to unveil its S/S 18 fashions, a chic, laid–back amalgam of ultralight fabrics in warm sandy tones, a breath of summer in the bleak midwinter. It was a first for the brand, and its exclusive Limited Edition line is already available in–store on the “see now, buy now premise. Which means that the clothes shown on the runway look set to fly off the racks. Think a beautifully structured, deliciously soft, cream leather saharienne jacket, minimalist gabardines, or flowing, loose–fitting cardigans to curl up in. Elegance is good but goes better with a touch of anti–conformism. Which is why the suits are worn with leather sandals while blazers are paired with print shorts.…

— In Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s world, lace–up ballet shoes can be paired with jockstraps. The 27–year–old designer, whose gender–fluid and overtly sexualised collections are already arousing planet fashion, talks to Vogue Hommes. VOGUE HOMMES Your backstory? LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN I’m French, born in Belgium. I studied in Paris and then worked at Saint Laurent and Balmain. Neither really fits my own aesthetic. At one point, I took a break and rubbed my eyes to get all the stardust out of them. Then I embarked on my own personal project of posting photos of guys who look like me on Instagram as a way of exploring the prevailing narcissism. Then I began to design clothes for them. VH And your USP? LSS The answer sounds a bit silly, but…

Ruscha hour — Ed Ruscha was 26 in 1963 and fresh out of art school when he met Marcel Duchamp, at a retrospective of Duchamp’s work in Pasadena that his friend Walter Hopps was curating at the local art museum. Young Americans were fascinated by Duchamp — including Andy Warhol, 35, who was also at the opening night. Duchamp’s radical stance, his sense of humour and his appreciation of worthless objects would influence Ruscha throughout his life: “The more I got into Duchamp, the more I understood that he saw the world the way a scholar would, but also a writer. And that he went looking where nobody had gone before. He lived sparingly, and that’s also what made him such a mystery.” Ruscha applies this lesson of removed sobriety…

— Far from being trapped in her own myth, overwhelmed by a career — the likes of which will never be seen again — workingwith the foremost directors (Demy,Truffaut, Rappeneau, Von Trier, De Oliveira, Buñuel, Ferreri, Polanski, Desplechin, Téchiné,Varda among them), or hampered by her iconic beauty, Catherine Deneuve has always shown daring and versatility in her choices. And on the rare occasions that she speaks out and takes a committed stand, herwords resonate like the crack of a whip. In 2004, when she was guest editor for French Vogue’sChristmas issue, her friendAndré Téchiné told me: “As an actress, she’s like Plasticine. She’s also a real fighterwho doesn’t give in. She has an indomitable will to move ahead. But don’t imagine she doesn’t have her share of angst. Catherine has…

— Helmut Lang is a man of few words. Nor did he like to title his emblematic fashion creations of the 1990s, nor the art he has devoted himself too since the noughties. Discreet to the point of invisibility, and impervious to the siren song of the media, the Austrian artist is treading a path similar to those of his elusive former fashion peers, Martin Margiela and Rei Kawakubo. In 2004, while at the peak of his much–hyped celebrity, Helmut Lang took his final catwalk bow, an earthshaking moment for the fashion faithful. There’s no denying that, with his androgynous pants suits, his mineral black, his distressed paint–splashed denim, and his headstrong juxtapositions of latex, silk and plastic, the Vienna alchemist was a whizz when it came to knocking 1980s’…

“Life is not a problem to solve, but a mystery to be lived.” Olivier Lalanne — Who has never felt things getting out of control? Or felt a vital need, at some point or other, to undo their collar because they’re suffocating? Who has never been alone with themselves, haunted by questions big and small about the meaning of life, the blurry outline of their destiny, the elasticity of the notions of free will, truth and self–awareness? The answer is everyone, of course, and today, perhaps, more than ever. Our hearts are occasionally buffeted by emotional headwinds as we are torn between the desire to live life to the full and “FoMO”, fear of missing out, to exist in the singular but also in the eyes of the plurality, to…

OurFave COMME DES GARÇONS HOMMES PLUS SPRING–SUMMER 2018 Short cut Shorts went viral this season. We’ve always thought that cut–offs et al were something of a style fail in the male wardrobe, but we have to admit that, this summer, there’s no avoiding them. They were the big hitters of the best catwalk shows: radically black worn with socks at Prada, baggy to the max at Gosha Rubchinskiy, a 70s’ tease at Gucci, and campus classic at Dior Homme. A word to the wise: please get those calves and thighs into shape before trying any of this at home. Mille time To withstand the extremely physical conditions of polo matches, watchmaker Richard Mille’s new RM 53–01 Tourbillon timepiece, created for Argentinian champion player Pablo MacDonough, boasts a world first with…

THE WELLNESS REVOLUTION It all started in New York with SoulCycle. In the midst of recession, the Spinning chain transformed indoor cycling sessions into a frenzied cult to rock ’n’ roll. Then came Juice Press, in the East Village, serving organic green juices for breakfast to daily detox enthusiasts. Meanwhile, Silicon Valley millionaires began to decode their genomes in experimental clinics in San Diego (to anticipate future illnesses and ageing) and to build ephemeral five–star haciendas for a week’s camping during the Burning Man festival. The movement picked up speed with Donald Trump’s election. The giant digital companies, accused of triggering the American crisis, did much soul–searching. Psychologists from the American Psychological Association confirm this: “Just after the elections, levels of stress and anxiety soared at both Google and Facebook”.…

—“He is him and I am me”: a phrase that became part of the tapestry of French history via Laurent Fabius (who came out with it in 1984, in reference to the President François Mitterrand, whose Prime Minister Fabius was at the time). Similarly, we often find something like it in the mouths of novelists as they try to knock the idea that there’s necessarily an autobiographical link between them and their characters. It’s their way of kicking the suggestion that a book is the faithful reflection of its author into the long grass. Even in first–person narrative, “I” is another, say the majority of writers, the “I” is a fiction, and for that reason, there’s no point in trying to find pseudo–clues about the life or psychology of the…

His consistent run has lasted twenty–four years. Rick Owens has never compromised on his unique style, nor had any doubts. We wondered what lay behind such loyalty to self. A meeting with a man at peace. — Ever since his 1994 Los Angeles debut, Rick Owens has consistently asserted his attachment to his own vision of fashion and of life itself, to his personal aesthetic, and to what constitutes it, deep down. You’d be hard put to find a designer who has ploughed such a consistent, substantial furrow in his work, and who has managed to remain at the cusp of contemporaneity for over two decades without ever compromising. Owens is a free spirit who is generous enough to want to pass that freedom on to us, to inspire us…

— In March 1968, writer and film–maker Pier Paolo Pasolini published his novel Teorema. Hardly had it gone on sale in bookshops than he set out to film his screenplay of it. The protagonist is a charismatic, sexually charged young stranger who sleeps with every member of a middle–class Milan family, one after the other. The part was taken by the British actor Terence Stamp, who was already a young star at the time and who had long fantasised about Silvana Mangano after a chance encounter on a Rome street. She had told him that he would be perfect for Pasolini’s next film, where she already had a part. Pasolini, the tetchy left–wing intellectual, brushing off the charm of the cool young actor with his glacial gaze, never spoke directly…

— Cameron Alborzian is a rara avis — one of the very few male models inducted into the supermodel pantheon alongside Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford and Kate Moss. At 1m85, built like a classical Kouros with dark, almond eyes, the one–time god of the glossies forged an enviable career: the muse of Gaultier, Valentino and Versace, the smouldering embodiment of iconic brand Guess and the hero of Madonna’s “Express Yourself ”, the Tehran–born genetic miracle left his very personal stamp on fashion photography in the 1990s. On the eve of the second millennium, he dropped everything overnight to train as a master of yoga. Today, Cameron has achieved recognition in his “new” field but still triggers waves of nostalgia in the land of the catwalk. And to prove it, the…

L’HOMME PRADA L’EAU THE STRUCTURE an airy blend of amber and iris, laden with red ginger and sandalwood. THE EFFECT once L’Eau is on your skin, it loses its lightness and gains in magnitude. It’s perfect for shaking up codes and boosting your aura. Prada, 100 ml, €101. MR BURBERRY INDIGO THE STRUCTURE like zesty lemonade, tempered by the bark of driftwood and white oak. THE EFFECT a fresh splash that clears away the cobwebs, and helps you refocus and surpass yourself. Burberry, 50 ml, €66,32. MUSIC FOR A WHILE THE STRUCTURE an overdose of lavender and patchouli subdued by a note of pineapple juice. THE EFFECT first of all, an soothing effect as with Henry Purcell’s piece that gave it its name, and then a feeling of soaring strength.…

— For best part of a year now, Arnaud Valois has been racking up trips abroad to promote the release of 120 Beats per Minute, the film by Robin Campillo that thrust him centre stage. Last June, The New York Times profiled him under the headline: “He Wanted to Give Massages, but the Movies Called Him Back”. For the previous five years, he had spent most of his time working as a professional sophrologist and masseur between trips to Thailand, which was fast becoming his adoptive country. All that changed after a few screenings in Cannes and an upsurge of love for the handsome Act Up–Paris activist caught up in a sometimes violent confrontation with Big Pharma and political inertia, at the same time as he was in a loving,…