Innholdsfortegnelse for 25 i Vogue Hommes English Version

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— "I was 23 on the shoot of Breathless. I was the youngest first assistant in France,” says Pierre Rissient with a little smile. Rissient has been a press attaché, producer, distributor, programmer, éminence grise, secret agent, and on occasion even a director, adviser and consultant to Clint Eastwood for over thirty years. Now 80, he knew John Ford and Raoul Walsh, was a close friend of Fritz Lang and Joseph Losey, brought Jane Campion’s first films to the Cannes Film Festival, was a loyal champion of Abbas Kiarostami and, still to this day, of Quentin Tarantino. He worked alongside the impetuous Godard, with Belmondo and Jean Seberg on the now legendary Breathless, which heralded in the New Wave, together with Truffaut’s The 400 Blows and Chabrol’s Les Cousins. "Breathless…

 Half angel, half demon, Lukas Ionesco transgresses the boundaries of gender and identity. As an actor — filming three lead roles this year — and as a grunge singer — with a new album on the way — he is completely at ease with his androgynous side, and stunningly charismatic. A Parisian in every sense, and a rebel at heart, he is in a class of his own, with a face that truly illuminates Converse’s DNA.…

— Sonic Youth and Madonna, William Burroughs and Jean–Michel Basquiat, Arthur Russell and Afrika Bambaataa, Jim Jarmusch and David Bowie, Andy Warhol and Debbie Harry, Keith Haring and Klaus Nomi — to name but a few — all hobnobbed in the shadowy nooks and crannies of the Mudd Club, Danceteria, the Pyramid and the Peppermint Lounge. They all had their debut, grew up, and were nurtured in the formidable creative chaos of the near bankrupt New York of the early 80s. New York was the epicentre of an unprecedented creative explosion, where musical, cinematographic and art revolutions flared during a grimy, short–lived window — a time of enchantment and improvisation rising out of the ashes of punk and before the authoritarian clean–up spearheaded by Mayor Rudy Giuliani. Tim Lawrence, a…

He could have been one of the beautiful people of “La Dolce Vita”. With his carefully groomed moustache, characterful, hooded dark eyes and understated elegance, Pierpaolo Piccioliembodies male panache at its most discreet and seductive. Now alone at the helm of Valentino, he has stamped an ultra–effective identity on the Roman house. With sharp cuts, sumptuous fabrics, and a Savile Row backbone, versus raw denim and recurring use of camouflage and studs… the couturierhas lifted his game in each successive season. Men’s fashions may have found their messiah. — On that Sunday morning in January, in the run–up to the Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Pierpaolo Piccioli woke up at his home, fronting the sea, a short ride from Rome. By early afternoon, he was already in Paris, attending meeting after…

DRIES VAN NOTEN because he never puts a foot wrong. Witness the perfect cut and roominess of the trousers, the rehabilitated tank tops, and the oh–so–subtle colours. And no more skin on show than absolutely necessary. A perfect ten. RAF SIMONS knows all about men and fashion. Those fabulous, quirky volumes, those reinvented wardrobe basics, his references to Robert Mapplethorpe and Genêt’s Querelle of Brest: the Belgian designer knows that where he hangs his clothes, there lies the meaning of life. VETEMENTS Unmissable. And how! All that velvet, those bootees and that seventies fun! Those floor–sweeping Vetements oversized belts. The entire show the epitome of cool. Even the skin–tight leather crotch seemed so… right. Hail Demna! GUCCI because Alessandro Michele is fearless. He’s not afraid to dress us males in…

— A Wolfgang Tillmans exhibition can be seen in the batting of an eyelid, and almost with your eyes closed. Not that the German artist, born in 1968, has become repetitive to the extent that since the Turner Prize, which he won in 2000, his shows could be considered as predictable or déjà–vu. Quite the contrary. From the outset, and from a distance, without taking the time to look closely at anything, you feel a heady beat emerging from the exhibits. They take the form of a constellation of dissymmetrical images, both in terms of subject matter and format. Some are printed on A4 and document scenes of everyday life. They are hung alongside vast abstract prints, which are the result of chemical processes, rather than the lens, while others…

— With the Met in New York celebrating Comme des Garçons, we felt it was time to give the lie to three major misunderstandings surrounding the fashion house set up by Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo nearly fifty years ago. So, no, the creation of Comme des Garçons was not only intellectual. On the contrary, Kawakubo claims that it came from the heart. And after all, Comme des Garçons speaks mainly to our senses. It’s more poetic than intellectual. For a long time, there were no mirrors in Rei Kawakubo’s boutiques, as she felt that it was more important to feel good in her clothes than we looked in them. No, Comme des Garçons is not only a range of variations on black methodically produced by a melancholic designer. Indeed, over…

— James Franco is full of surprises. Year after year, the actor–director–screenwriter–writer has developed his talent for keeping us waiting. He recently established himself as a photographer, showing his work in Paris in a collection of self–portraits in disguise, reminiscent of Cindy Sherman’s work. But before producing images, James Franco portrayed one of the most legendary images of all time: in 2001 it was his portrayal of James Dean that brought him into the public eye. The enfant terrible has been busy ever since, for the better — Harvey Milk or Spring Breakers — and for the worse (Eat, pray, love and The Interview) — and his has become one of the iconic faces of a generation. Everyone likes Franco for different reasons: his good looks, his sense of humour,…

— What do David Fincher’s Seven, Danny Boyle’s The Beach, Michael Haneke’s Amour and James Gray’s The Immigrant all have in common? The answer to that question is a man behind the camera, discreet but a consummate master of his artistic choices. Cinematographer Darius Khondji has long been part of the elite in his profession, which has a star system of its own, with artists and technicians who are in great demand on account of their creative sensitivity, support for the director, with whom they produce an object that, although intangible, forms some of our most significant memories: film, its colour, texture and lighting. There is a truly magical edge to eminent directors of photography’s influence on films, and Khondji, with his enigmatic romanticism — which stems from his admiration…

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Agreed "The index finger is placed on the lower eyelid, drawing it slightly downward. The meaning is: got it, agreed, or beware.” Contentment "The hands are rubbed together, as though to warm them.” Word of Honour "The flat hand stops on the chest.” Prison "The hands are crossed at the wrists, as if they were handcuffed.” Congratulations "Shaking of the two hands. It is a useful gesture to congratulate somebody at a distance.” Rage "Rage can be expressed by biting the knuckle of one finger, generally the index. It is not necessary to bite hard, the mere gesture is sufficient. But as this is a spontaneous movement numerous variants are used.”…

— It’s no accident that Vogue Hommes chose to put down in Brazil, and more precisely in Rio, where dreams ignite. Looking beyond the sizzling temperatures and postcard landscapes, the cult of the body beautiful is extreme and body confidence seems second nature. Witness the uninhibited sway of the bronzed locals, sashaying along in Speedos. That self–confidence seems to be the starting point of style — style construed as a system of individual deviations from, among others, the more jaw–dropping offerings of the menswear collections. Because you need chutzpah to flaunt the outrageous shoulders sent out by Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga (slated to spread contagion to all catwalks next season), Alessandro Michele’s strident gender–bending for Gucci, or Haider Ackermann’s at Berluti and Raf Simons’s for Calvin Klein. Not forgetting the…

1. Backpack, Karabiner, Parka, check. Boots and sandals to die for, check. Trekkingto impress, Miuccia Prada gets it right all over again. 2. “Fashion goes in cycles.” You don’t say. The 1990s are back, and with them, MTVgeneration streetwear. 3. Create complex constructions, subvert classic lines, boldly hybridise where none have dared, and blend the utilitarian with the romantic. Craig Green has taken a metaphorical chainsaw to the male wardrobe. The young conceptual designer is the toast of London, restoring our faith in humankind. 4. Caps are wizard. 5. Satin shorts: we thought they’d been banished forever after Wham! Not so. They’re back and they’re angry. See Fendi, Comme des Garçons, Gosha, and Rubin. 6. Get noticed for very little outlay: use string for a belt in these times of…

— Where is Martin Margiela? What has become of Martin Margiela? What does Martin Margiela look like? And, ultimately, who is Martin Margiela? Every fashion aficionado has asked themselves these questions, hunted for a clue on the Web, tried to outdo the others with guesswork ("And what if it were a woman?”) before finally giving up. Martin Margiela is the Garbo of the 2.0 era, the chronicle of a superbly successful disappearing act, thwarting all the theories of forced media hype and elusive discretion in an era of social media and Big Brother. For some thirty years, the Belgian designer, 59, born in Genk, Limburg, and a graduate of the prestigious Royal Academy of Antwerp in 1979, has demonstrated that it is indeed possible to slip beneath the radar without…

But Camille Blatrix, 32, found his salvation in contemporary art, where he has carved out an enviable place for himself as an outsider in great demand on international markets. — "You mustn’t be a poser: when art is corrupted by hype it’s a problem. Doing something just to be cool worries me.” Camille Blatrix is talkative, tormented and cheerful. Spending time with him one morning in a Paris café is like a breath of fresh air: when things become serious, they still take on a sense of lightheartedness. Perhaps because he is young and not blasé. Or because he knocks his coffee over, then his glass of orange juice, in turn, apologising for being so clumsy. Or perhaps because he has just got back from six weeks in Mexico, where,…

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