Innholdsfortegnelse for Automne - Hiver 2015-2016 i Vogue Hommes English Version

MATHIAS AUGUSTYNIAK has never conducted an interview, so his off–the–cuff conversation with Benjamin Biolay in this issue of Vogue Hommes ( p. 230 ) was something of a jump in at the deep end. “I’ve always dreamt of doing an interview,” he says. “Of putting questions to different personalities while I draw them, to keep a trace of that moment in time. Perhaps this chat with Benjamin is the beginning of something new? Why not do the same with some of the artists I’ve been fortunate enough to meet, such as Agnès Varda and Kanye West?” Mathias Augustyniak is one of the Ms in the artistic twosome M / M ( the other being Michael Amzalag ), who are behind a great many star – studded projects with the likes…

SHOWSTOPPERS # 1 BALL PARK FIGURE Why should we have to choose? Why should we have to go down just one avenue? Why not be both an American football player and a Texas cheerleader all rolled into one? Why not sport the team strip with its V–neckline ( only slightly V–ed ) and, more importantly, why deprive ourselves of the rhinestone epaulettes? Note the laced flies, thoughtfully left undone to tempt the appetite and say hello to the big wide world with SIBLING . HATS OFF TO RAF RAF SIMONS’S winter show was steeped in the “teen spirit”, a variation captured in the scrawled–on white lab coats of continental fresher hazings. The catwalk itself was raised up high, and there were no seats and no front row. People stood where…

PICASSO MANIA The Grand Palais in Paris is taking a fresh look at the polymorphic work of the Spanish genius, exploring the impact of his astoundingly prolific artistry on contemporary art. His creativity proliferated in Pop Art and in the New Wave movement. The thematic show also covers his political commitment — he was a communist activist, respected and much heeded after the war — and his dealings with the star system, which he quickly learnt to handle, when he was on the French Riviera in the 1960s, and involved in wild love affairs. The idea is also to “educate” visitors in the matter of a style that rapidly became almost generic: Picasso did Picasso, while at the same time shattering — one by one — the autodidactic attempts at…

PIRATE COVE The last of the great corsairs sailing the world for plunder ( in his case, spices ), Olivier Roellinger has a streak of the kamikaze in him — the sort of person who would turn in his hard–earned Michelin stars ( which he did, in 2008 ). The great Celtic chef has the same appetite for adventure in his business empire, racking up seaside gîtes, spice bars, and brilliant restaurants. It’s so maddeningly brilliant you want to strike your colours. Perched on a cliff–top with views across the bay to Mont Saint Michel, his palatial Château Richeux overlooks a rocky, watercolour shoreline. Inside, the restaurant and rooms would be an ideal setting for a pulse–quickening Cluedo re–enactment. A perfect winter hideaway, in the conservatory, with a candlestick. Le…

—He should be familiar to us all. In 2014, Édouard Louis couched his short, young life in black and white for all to see. His hard–hitting autobiography said it all. It was like a bomb exploding; a brick hurled through the window of the French literary world: En finir avec Eddy Bellegueule ( “Farewell to Eddy Handsome” ). “Of course the book is an act of truth. Reading it will tell you part of my biography and a large part of who I am; larger still if you’re willing to consider that the early years count more than the rest. Everything, in the conscious construction of the narrative, was intended to express the truth. The whole purpose of the book was to be the bearer of the true voices of…

—It’s always tempting to look around the homes of architects and designers, figuring — rightly or wrongly — that their own home should tell us a lot more than all of their projects put together. Festen, the firm Hugo Sauzay set up with his girlfriend, Charlotte de Tonnac, is located in Paris’s 3rd arrondissement , with parquet flooring, mouldings, and a fireplace. The Haussmannstyle apartment is spiced up with art books placed on shelves at floor level, a huge mirror, a dining–room table surrounded by Superleggera chairs, vintage leather sports mats that can be used to sit on, too, opposite a squidgy corner sofa. In the hall, there’s a ( stuffed ) peacock. In the living room, there’s a ( live ) cat, who’s been let out of the kitchen…

—Just imagine. One minute you’re taking a vocational training course in carpentry in Gennevilliers, on the outskirts of Paris, sawing planks all day long. The next, you’re thrust onto a grandiose film set where you deliver dialogue to Catherine Deneuve, Sara Forestier and Benoît Magimel; you’re in every single scene in the film, Emmanuelle Bercot’s Standing Tall; and you’re playing an angry, defiant, self–destructive teenager. Sounds fanciful — but Rod Paradot, at the tender age of 19, held his own and went on to receive tremendous praise from both press and public at Cannes. He has now joined that special group of young actors launched by their portrayals of thugs, bursting onto the screen ( and sometimes into the headlines ) with furrowed brows and clenched fists. This archetype of…

MATHIAS AUGUSTYNIAK I did prepare some questions, but just to get us started. Then, we’ll take it from there. We’ll just riff. At the première of your tour, when you reprised the Trenet songs, Chiara [Mastroianni] came on stage, and together you sang “La Balade du mois de juin”. It made me cry. After the concert, I bumped into a girl I used to know and she admitted that it had made her cry too. What does it feel like to make a girl and a guy cry on the same evening? BENJAMIN BIOLAY There are two of us who made a girl and a boy cry on the same evening, Chiara and me. I think you were crying for a host of completely different reasons. You, because this album…

VOGUE HOMMES In what way do you feel French? LÆTITIA CASTA I began to feel French from the moment I started travelling. You feel yourself to be French elsewhere. VH What is your definition of the French male? LC On the arrogant side, with a soupçon of nonchalance, and desperately wanting to be liked. VH What is the quintessence of French clothing? LC It isn’t any particular item of clothing, just the unique way it’s worn. VH Name one typically French fragrance? LC The smell of fresh pains au chocolat in the bakeries in the morning. VH One typically French dish? LC Veal blanquette. VH A typically French address? LC The Rodin Museum, the Alexandre III bridge over the Seine … Not forgetting Notre Dame. I’ve dreamt of getting married…

—These two purebred Siamese felines, with their black leggings and electrifying musculature, seeming to hang weightlessly in space for Matthew Brookes’s camera, are two specimens from the Paris Opera ballet company, who have escaped from the legendary institution for a photocall to appear in the line–up of Les Danseurs, just published by the American photographer. Captured from every angle of their contortionists’ bodies in mind–bending black and white, these “machines you have to tame anew each day”, as prima ballerina Sylvie Guillem once said; this breathtaking squad of gossamer–light “boys”, execute crazy poses, their abs rock–hard and veins pulsing with energy. “I spent over a year photographing these dancers,” says Brookes. “We built up a rapport based on trust. I’m fascinated by their sheer physical strength and athleticism. Their bodies…

CHRISTINE ANGOT Pourquoi pas le Brésil [Why (not) Brazil?] Stock, 2002 In the 1990s, Christine Angot established herself as one of the leading lights in autobiographical writing, a genre now much in vogue. Here she tackles love, that creaking novelistic chestnut so often tarted up with all the lies linked to romanticism. Angot serves up a brutally frank, eye–opening post–mortem of her love affair with the journalist Pierre–Louis Rozynès, detailing all the mechanisms at work behind the sentiments. MICHEL HOUELLEBECQ The Possibility of an Island W & N, 2006 With this scathing work, Houellebecq raises his status from best young French writer to national literary phenomenon. A fan of Lovecraft, he blends science fiction (welcome to a future of clones) with social satire as seen through the eyes of a…

—Say “French elegance” and the first ( sepia–tinted, stuffy ) image that will probably come to mind is likely to be one of a Proustian Jockey Club ( to which Proust himself could never belong due to his Jewish background ) its members arrayed in patent–leather pumps and dark suits, with slicked hair and curled moustaches. It is an image that harks back to the late–19th , early–20th –century elegance of aesthetes and tastemakers like Robert de Montesquiou and Boni de Castellane, the principle of which survived, in one form or another, until the mid–20th century. But to leave it at that would be to pass over Baudelaire and Manet, (not to mention Barbey d’Aurevilly ), who strove to loosen the stifling embrace of hidebound elegance and resolutely preached a…

—In 1958, a fourteen–year–old Jean–Pierre Léaud turned up for an audition. He’d skipped school, seems confident, although a slight breathlessness suggests he isn’t quite as self–assured as he’d have us believe. The film of this now legendary encounter between Léaud and the man who delivered him to the screen, François Truffaut, is one of the most striking pieces of cinema anyone could imagine. Whatever the future might hold for Quentin Dolmaire, whether or not he takes on Antoine Doinel’s vocation of alter ego and recurring character, from The 400 Blows to Stolen Kisses, the encounter between this somewhat swaggering teen and Arnaud Desplechin reveals the same quasierotic alchemy, the same unequivocality. Quentin Dolmaire is 21. He grew up in Dreux, a provincial French town, listens to black metal and isn’t…

VOGUE HOMMES What’s the first album you ever bought? ADRIEN GALLO New Order’s Get Ready. I saw the clip for “Crystal” on TV and just flipped. And when I saw the cover in black and white — with the girl holding the small camera — that sealed the deal, I had to have the album! I’d never even heard of New Order before. It was only afterwards that I checked out earlier albums they’d recorded. I’m wild about them. VH Was there an album your parents listened to constantly that you ended up loving? AG Véronique Sanson’s Amoureuse. For a long time I thought my parents didn’t have any influence on my musical tastes. I was listening to a lot of indie rock in English, and for them it was…

—He’s hardly out of short trousers yet, according to magazine Les Inrockuptibles, he’s already one of the 100 top people who are reinventing culture. It’s a fact that Vincent Lacoste is already a household name for French audiences. At the tender age of 22, he seems to be a fixture in the French cinema landscape, like all actors who have a well–defined personal charisma and a highly recognisable je ne sais quoi. In his case, it’s the shock of curly hair and a zeitgeist pout ( although the generation game raises his hackles a millimetre ). French cinemagoers discovered the face in 2009, in the title sequence of Les Beaux Gosses ( aka The French Kissers), Riad Sattouf’s cinema debut. In it, young Vincent played Hervé, a denizen of the…

—Here be two gentlemen in the purest French tradition, discreet in that they seem to do very little while never stopping working, thinking, and keeping pace with the zeitgeist, yet never trusting its transient fads. Artist Philippe Par-reno and actor Melvil Poupaud became friends through a web of private affinities and common concerns, and share an offbeat, contemplative sense of humour. Born in Oran, Algeria, in 1964, Philippe Parreno belongs to that Generation 1990, which took up exhibiting as an art form in its own right, and not just as a way of showing works on a wall or standing next to each other. In 1998, along with Charles de Meaux, Pierre Huyghe and Dominique Gonzalez–Foerster, he created Anna Sanders Films, a production company that was able to boast top…

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—The trigger for this issue was a pair of white jeans. Or, to be more precise, a comment about just such a pair overheard in a New York restaurant last January. Visibly shocked by what he considered my sacrilegious nether garment, a middle–aged American exclaimed, with a mix of irritation and fascination, “Only a Frenchman could wear white jeans in winter.” The old chestnut of the couldn’t–care–less Frenchman, disdaining basic vestimentary good manners, if not downright disrespectful of the most elementary rules of dress code, still has plenty of mileage in it, it would seem. Here at Vogue Hommes, an issue themed on French style, its unique characteristics, its flag carriers, has long been on our minds. Before that, however, we needed to grasp the grassroots reality, define its contours.…

—Tracking Johnny Depp’s latest doings is like surfing an endless wave of eccentricities, where you never quite manage to determine just how reliable or serious the news is, so completely is it steeped in gonzo performance. For example: the international incident sparked by his two Yorkshire terriers, which the Australian authorities threatened to have put down after the star neglected to declare them to customs. The miniature mutts were finally flown back to Hollywood by private jet … Then there’s the Depp who appears in a Facebook video decked out as Captain Jack Sparrow in his Pirates of the Caribbean persona, bottle–feeding a baby bat he decided to adopt. Not to mention his innumerable property rollovers, like selling his South of France property for 23 million euros and buying a…

—The objective symptoms of a style revolution underway over the past few seasons in the male wardrobe reflect the fact that modern man is shrugging off the most outmoded sartorial codes, driven by an increasing desire for uniqueness, whimsy, and an urge for the ultimate in quality. This has not gone unnoticed by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who in July presented Alta Sartoria, the equivalent of a couture collection for men on a quest for the incomparable. The 5–star event took place in the sumptuous surroundings of Castello Brown, the cliff–top eyrie above Portfino harbour, and jet–setting venue dear to the duo. No prizes, then, for guessing that the ultra–stylish shades of Gatsby, Mastroianni, Nureyev and Rubirosa trod the garden walks overlooking the Mediterranean. In a tad over ninety…

—At 34, he is one of French cinema’s most prominent young actors. Already the winner of two César awards ( most promising actor and best actor ) for his role in A Prophet, he is courted by both French and international directors (Lou Ye, Fatih Akin, Asghar Farhadi, Elie Wajeman and Kiyoshi Kurosawa among them ), and equally likely to be cast in an auteur drama (Grand Central, The Past, The Anarchists) as a mainstream comedy (Samba, Le Père Noël). The son of immigrants from Oran who grew up in social housing in north–east France, in barely ten years Tahar Rahim has quietly and steadily worked his way to the top. He is both rational and unpredictable, a mix of intensity and spontaneity. An actor who hasn’t forgotten where he…

“The urge to create is in my genes. I love a challenge and questioning received wisdom.”GIORGIO ARMANI Vogue Hommes Fall–Winter 2010 “I am never satisfied.This is a formidable engine that drives me on.”GIORGIO ARMANI Vogue Hommes Fall–Winter 2010…