Innholdsfortegnelse for Fall - Winter 2016 -2017 i Vogue Hommes English Version

Jegor Venned —This issue’s cover boy, Jegor Venned has a distinct air of Richard Gere about him, around the time of American Gigolo. He stands well over six feet tall, has almond–shaped brown eyes and a body that might well have been sculpted. We noticed him at a Berluti show: a magical mix of classicism, perfection and exoticism. With good reason. Jegor hails from the Faroe Islands, eighteen islets scattered in the North Atlantic between Norway and Iceland. “I live in a village of 1,000 inhabitants,” he explains. “It rains 300 days a year, the climate knows no mercy, with all four seasons in twenty–four hours. But the landscapes are breathtaking. Pyramid mountains everywhere, prairies in the north, fjords cut into the coastline, and monumental waterfalls. It reminds me of…

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It harks back to the spacious zoot suits worn by Harlem’s smart dressers in the 1940s, as well as the square shoulders of Thierry Mugler’s post–Cold War quest for Superman in the late 80s. Wear this and no–one can push past you on the escalator. It will make waves in the fashion pond. If your initial reaction is panic, that’s because the look will be worn: the silhouette is designed to get people to react: laugh out loud, or moan. It’s bound to influence the Jacket, the capital J of the Men’s Suit Jacket. Demna Gvasalia, the new Creative Director at Balenciaga, found it in the House archives. Museum Alert: the official line is that it was the last coat started by Cristobal Balenciaga and abandoned before it was finished.…

The Peruvian fashion photographer has now collected these photos, teaming them with a sensual series of blindingly colourful flowers, in a single volume prefaced by, inter alia, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, close friends of Vivanco. All proceeds from the sale of the book will go to Amantani, a UK charity helping to develop schools for indigenous Peruvian children high in the Andes. Portraits Nudes Flowers, published by Damiani, €45…

Samuel Beckett —The Irish–born Nobel Prize winner may well have famously said that “To be an artist is to fail, as no other dare fail”, but when it came to elegance, you have to admit that he did the polar opposite by adopting as his personal style signifier the same austere, minimalist approach he took to his writing… starting with his iconic salt–and–pepper quiff that had a big influence on David Lynch. But there was also his way of combining a thin black polo neck with a black sweater: not exactly a laugh a minute. That said, Sam was crazy for accessories: check out the man bag with its carabiner fastening to inject a dash of virility, the round shades with metal frames, the wrist watch with its white face…

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J. W. Anderson has worked for LVMH’s Spanish brand Loewe for the past three years and the fact has not gone unnoticed. His tightly scripted runway shows are universally acclaimed, as are his ad campaigns — as weird as they are effective. He also works on his own, eponymous brand in London, regularly coming in for harsh words from the popular press, which just doesn’t get his forward–thinking male fashions. He caused a media stir by live–streaming his Menswear January 2016 runway show live in 2016 in partnership with Grindr — the marketing coup of the year. Loewe boutiques don’t only stock clothing and accessories, but also ceramics, chairs and more. In Anderson’s view, Loewe is not a luxury brand but a cultural one. J.W. Anderson is one of the…

—Valentino advocates the truly waterproof waterproof in glazed vinyl. Every move you make sounds like skin on skin. —Gucci and Alessandro Michele have decreed that all of yesterday’s heresies are today’s new cool, including wearing your favourite Snoopy teeshirt — the one you sleep in — out to dinner. —Hermès Véronique Nichanian continues to poke subtle fun by pairing her super–luxe daywear looks with left–field accessories, like this bag, waiting to tear you apart. —Dior and Kris Van Assche are still exploring their dream of youth. The upshot is some formal streetgear — a cap–wearing banker’s son or post–bourgeois artist just about wraps it up. It does it for us. —Raf Simons has wheeled the silhouette of Bobby Briggs, the high–school jock in Twin Peaks, back into the spotlight, but…

1 Sportswear is muscling its way into the classic canon, with the tracksuit top becoming the new blazer. A special mention goes to the cranberry sequinned offering from Burberry.A perfect fit for the Games (in Sitges). 2 Say yes to khaki, no to brown. 3 A sudden, unconquerable urge to own that Levi’s light stonewashed denim jacket ca. 1982? We know and love the mainstream version. More discerning punters will beat a track to Calvin Klein for a pepped–up take on the classic, subtly peppered with pure gold. 4 Genuflect before Miuccia Prada and her sea symphony and its intricate undertow of Querelle and Corto Maltese. In passing, and rising to an unlikely challenge, she brought back the cape. 5 Like Brexit, the subject of leather trousers is guaranteed to…

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What prompted you to write a book on such a brutal series of murders? SIMON LIBERATI The murder of Sharon Tate struck me when I was a kid. The story shocked my entire generation. Even Patti Smith, in Just Kids, talks about the instant in the Chelsea Hotel with Robert Mapplethorpe when she heard about Sharon Tate’s murder. You can see the photos Mapplethorpe took after the murders. Because the Manson murders, the very embodiment of evil, of the devil, also had an aesthetic impact — on film–maker John Waters, for example, or on Andy Warhol’s Trash. A little later came Stanley Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orange. The idea of young people as dangerous settled in collective psyche — especially mine. When punk emerged in 1977, that crooked smile of Sid…

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—The lucky guy embracing Cindy Crawford, as close as he can get to her low–cut neckline in this paparazzi photo, is none other than Richard Gere. In this photo, which appeared in Vogue Hommes in 1993, they are on a beach doing a shoot for Herb Ritts. After a period in the doldrums, the American Gigolo sex symbol had returned to box office heights four years earlier, thanks to his boy wonder role in Pretty Woman. Rich, handsome, famous and supremely zen, he then added to his good fortune by winning over the most ravishing “beauty spot” on the planet. When Cindy Crawford batted her eyelashes — worth millions of dollars — the effect was like launching a Patriot missile. She was featured on literally hundreds of magazine covers, and…

Gold. Family. Bricks & Mortar. Fashion itself, attuned as it is to events in the wider world, is no exception to this impulse. In these days when we are surrounded by destruction and mayhem, disorientated and mesmerised by the consequent sense of loss and rebirth, Vogue Hommes has decided to hold up the notion of “classic”, the style safe haven par excellence, to scrutiny. Hardly is the word on the page than a silhouette springs to mind: clear–cut, potent, generally understated, universally applicable — and all too often, tediously predictable. This issue aims to take that somewhat bland notion to its extremes, blur its contours, subvert its aesthetic codes, and multiply its possibilities a hundredfold, going so far as to reinvent tradition through bold combinations, jumbling periods, and redefining the…

VOGUE HOMMES Who was the first man whose look impressed you? LUCAS OSSENDRIJVER David Bowie in the “Ashes to Ashes” video. I must have been ten, and I was struck by the weird costumes, the acid, solarised footage on the beach — like a lunar landscape. Bowie in a white shirt and black trousers was so mysterious. It was my first inkling of the impact fashion could have on the punch of an image. I also remember him in “Let’s dance,” with his peroxide hair and cream outfit. He is my all–time inspiration. VH When did you realise that you wanted to become a fashion designer? LO I’ve always liked creating things with my hands. I hesitated between architecture and fashion, but once I had enrolled at the Arnhem Academy…

Her equation is a joyous balance of classic, comfort, and fun. Think black– and purple–checked dressing gowns masquerading as overcoats, a canary yellow sweater in a wool and mink mix, loose–fitting pyjama bottoms in slate grey panne velvet, a coal–black leather jacket with buttercup shearling collar, a baby–pink fitted coat with a Mr Spud print furry carpet slippers — and, oh, those soft cloche hats! Fendi has put her name to a kidult collection fizzing with a slow–burn energy steeped in soothing loungewear culture — just the ticket for warding off the pervasive gloom and doom. Imagine an inspired collision between the eccentric dress of Jean Cocteau, the panache of John Singer Sargent’s Dr Pozzi at Home, and the inspired casual figure of the young Mick Jagger, plus a dash…

Herb Ritts by Laetitia Casta —This Autumn, Paris pays tribute to Herb Ritts, official portraitist of the Hollywood jet set and the world’s most beautiful women, a genius of bewitching black–and–whiteshots and subduederoticism. LaetitiaCasta,one of his objects of desire, publishes a personal message. “This photo was taken the second time I worked with Herb Ritts. He had chosen me a few months earlier to be the face of Chanel’s perfume, Allure. I knew his work, his photos of Madonna, Julia Roberts, Richard Gere and that portrait of a man in profile, his head shaved, with an octopus on his head, which had left an impression on me. “What jumps out at me when I see this photo are my child–like hands. I must have been seventeen, and only just, and…

—Physically, Richard Avedon looked rather like a lion, a cross between Klaus Kinski and Jacques Lacan. Artistically, his photography danced. Well, not quite, it’s a bit more complicated than that: to produce his photos, he would dance, jump around, and circle his model like a wild beast stalking its prey. The model he was assigned to photograph — male or female — would often be beside themselves. He would put them into a state we all know only too well, when our nerves are on edge and an unknown force pulls us out of ourselves. If only the blighter would stop jumping around, for heaven’s sake; if only the lion would stop stalking, and the combat cease. At a specific moment during this struggle between the model’s nerves and Avedon’s…