Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2016 i Vogue Australia

We’re living in difficult times. As I write this we are still recoiling from the tragedy of the Paris attacks. At Vogue, many of us know Paris well, visiting at least twice a year for the collections. It’s like a second home for me; the city in which I feel most comfortable after my own. We have many traumatised friends who live and work in Paris and we have cancelled two staff members’ travel to the city this week, both of whom were going to cover stories highlighting the creativity and artisanal skills of its clever residents. The suffering of the people and families caught up in these senseless acts – or violence anywhere – perpetrated in the name of religion or otherwise, is simply unfathomable. When tragedy strikes and…

The perfect fit As a stylist, Ilona Hamer has the advantage of seeing nearly everything on offer in the world of swim. She’s put this to good use by founding Matteau Swim, a swimwear brand that offers everything we always wanted: perfectly cut, classic swim-pieces. Here, she discusses the perfect fit: Vogue : “What is key to choosing a swim-piece that will outlast trends?” Ilona Hamer: “I have always been drawn to really classic and simple cuts. I love when a woman understands her body no matter what shape she is and can wear a bathing suit with ease and confidence. That’s the key to outlasting trends.” Vogue : “What should a woman look for when buying a swimsuit to ensure an excellent fit?” IH: “Understanding your body…

Alessandro Michele’s pensive bowerbird in Gucci’s old-world prints and eccentric array of estate-sale accessories is the perfect look for a day pondering British artist Grayson Perry’s impressive scope of work from intricate tapestries to coloured ceramics, on display at Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art, as part of the Sydney International Art Series, until May 1, 2016. Miu Miu’s party girl is bedecked in a collage of graphic prints, winking embellishments and fur stoles swinging from the shoulder with cowboy boots for kicking around the late-night circuit. Perfect for wearing to see the Flaming Lips when they tour Sydney, Hobart and Melbourne from January 8 to 15. The mishmash of visual flavours, becoming a J.W. Anderson signature, is echoed in artists Gilbert & George’s cut-and-paste style of artwork. Wear a red,…

Sitting in the ballroom of Claridge’s in London, Emma Hill is finally ready to switch her Chanel handbag for one of her own designs, a leopard-print calfskin satchel. Finally, because she decided to launch her own label a year ago and the designs have been so confidential that retailers were only shown sketches of the product. Moments before, she had revealed her new label to the press, and only then was she allowed to carry her own self-designed handbags publicly. Immediately after the launch, a selection was made available on Net-A-Porter as well as the label’s own website. “We were interested in the idea of offering some of the bags immediately for sale,” says Hill of the decision to launch her label, with her friend Georgia Fendley as CEO. This…

Rei Kawakubo once said: “For something to be beautiful, it doesn’t have to be pretty.” With extravagance and eccentricity strong directives that have stuck for seasons now, it’s not surprising that fashion’s gaze eventually craves an alternative beauty. Enter the 1990s, an epoch that fashion has mined less exhaustively than others and one that, 15 years on, has hit just the right vintage. To contextualise the appeal of the most minimal of dresses – the slip dress – think of a world rejecting 80s hedonism. It’s a garment so devoid of adornment it resembles an under-thing, not meant to be revealed, and was the perfect vehicle for rebellion, a mood we want to tap into again now. How to choose one? A sliver of a thing originally worn on the…

Tracey Emin and Banjo & Matilda Boundary-pushing artist Tracey Emin worked with Australian cashmere label Banjo & Matilda for a one-off collaboration that produced wearable monochrome jumpers for charity. Linda Jackson AND Romance Was Born Sharing a passion for the spring Australian landscape, Romance Was Born and local textile artist Linda Jackson’s collaboration on the label’s spring 2015 collection was a synergistic match. Esther Stewart and Valentino Australian artist Esther Stewart was discovered by Valentino on the internet. Months later, her artwork was translated onto their men’s autumn/winter’14/’15 collection in Paris.…

Are you part of the club? The one whose members know how detrimental sun damage is to our health, wax lyrical about the use of SPF and accelerated photo ageing, but still think the glowing, beaming, glimmering exterior of a natural tan looks good? For many of us, there’s nothing better than the feel of the sun on our skin, salt in our hair and sand in our toes, and for good reason: an outdoorsy lifestyle is part of our cultural DNA. But we can’t ignore the fact that there’s also an internal tug of war going on between the immediate positive effects of the sun (vitamin D exposure, a golden glow and the “you look so relaxed” comments) and an awareness of the fallout from sun exposure down the…

Whether or not we care to admit it, contouring is here to stay. In fact, our fixation has made its way south with a slew of body treatments designed to buff, tone and chisel in under an hour – the perfect match for this season’s shoulder-baring trends (see the Vogue Mood section in this issue). VelaShape III stimulates collagen and elastin in the skin via a hand-held device that distributes infrared light and radio frequencies, heating and targeting the fat cells in problem areas like legs, arms or torso for a smoothing effect. For a more therapeutic experience, the Darling Spa’s Detox Body Contour in Sydney’s Pyrmont starts with an all-over scrub before cocooning you in a mud wrap designed to detoxify and hydrate – mainstays of any good skincare…

“I WANTED TO GET OUT OF PERTH. I WAS INTERESTED IN FASHION. I WANTED A DIFFERENT KIND OF LIFE” The first thing I am struck by when I sit down to chat to Gemma Ward is her voice. Her words drape languidly over each other in a low timbre, making her speech hypnotically slow and considered, as though she is carefully selecting the exact word, is in complete control, and is really listening. We first meet during New York Fashion Week in September, which she attended as a guest of Vogue Australia and where she is repeatedly interrupted by both men and women, whose faces light up as they gush that she was their favourite model growing up, ask for photographs and marvel at her height. “I made a comment…

CAPRICORN 22 DECEMBER – 20 JANUARY All those brave new ideas you were determined to put into action could be up for a rethink now. Passion may have run away with you but logic is what you need. Making a second attempt to acquire a new look, better love and a dynamic entourage that helps you achieve your aims will make them more attainable. STYLE ICON: Kate Middleton AQUARIUS 21 JANUARY – 19 FEBRUARY You get extra energy and a chance to reinvent yourself now, though your mind may wander back to what’s old rather than what’s new. It’s a sign to let go of anything that’s hurt or held you back along with relationships that don’t fulfil you. A hectic work phase arrives now too, one that’s about gaining…

TWITTER Blanchettcom: Cate Blanchett for @vogueaustralia December. #HowToKillAFangirl @cumberblanchett: The December 2015 issue of @ vogueaustralia is gold. Cate Blanchett + The Present. FACEBOOK Leon Ha: Cate looks gorgeous in this Louis Vuitton dress! Cate appears twice this year on Vogue Australia!! Go Cate!! Janie Albert: Very proud to have this as my first Vogue cover, thanks everyone involved! Aleta Lucia: Absolutely stunning! Anhdy Lee: So beautiful … such elegance. Anne Shrewsbury-Randall: Enigmatic! Fen Rafael: Classy, stunning and timeless. INSTAGRAM Gslemus: Always beautiful classy woman!!! Jak5323: Magnificent cover, The Queen. Sula.jacob: Beautiful. Seda_hashem: She’s perfect. Sarah_a_c_b: @karriemehome @georgia_barclay how amazing is that divine piece of clothing!! Quiana04: @laurakmahon love this cover. Natashagriffith_: Gorgeous. Amarayoung1: She is so classy. Derpyydee: Stunning. Lajoyamenta: Sublime. Msjobutt: Great cover, love her! Paddingtonhouse: Love this…

“I DO LOVE GLAMOUR, BUT MY GLAMOUR IS A BIT MORE DECONSTRUCTED: IT’S A BIT MORE LIVED IN” Coffee expert. Stationery lover. Wearer of red lipstick. Dreamer. Self-confessed girl’s girl. And recently crowned recipient of what is arguably the biggest job in make-up: global creative make-up and colour designer at Chanel. Lucia Pica is not so much the make-up artist to watch as the make-up artist to wonder at. You only have to look at her house, her wardrobe and her body of work to recognise her instinctive ability to express how modern women want to see themselves. “I do love glamour,” she says, “but my glamour is a bit more deconstructed: it’s a bit more lived in.” She loves a bold, strong, lipstick look. Black eyeliner, never too perfect.…

“Elegant and strange,” is how Stylebop fashion director Leila Yavari describes Aaron Curry’s collaboration with fine jewellery brand Cada. Curry, an LA-based artist known for his bright sculptures and paintings, has worked with the German jewellery house in a collaboration available exclusively at Stylebop. The resulting cartoonish gold cocktail rings, dotted with precious stones, hint at the silhouettes of cacti, bulls and the moon – all natural shapes recast through an artificial filter. “I look at both the artificial and natural on the same plane,” says Curry, who didn’t bow to traditional notions of delicacy in fine jewellery. “I wanted them to retain a sense of spontaneity,” he says. Indeed, the semi-distorted forms make for a unique take on precious adornment. “I think fine jewellery is leaving all the rules…

Style stalking 1. YASMIN SEWELL: @YASMINSEWELL With a gauge attuned to fashion’s new, novel and promising, Australian export Yasmin Sewell, who runs her own label, Être Cécile, has just been named fashion director of Style.com. Keep an eye out for her personal updates, which reveal her distinct aesthetic and style. 2. GIOVANNA BATTAGLIA: @BAT _ GIO Girl about, contributing editor and stylist … a quick flick through Giovanna Battaglia’s Instagram is enough to convince you to wear more prints, colour and metallic. Maybe, even all at once! 3. AMANDA SANCHEZ: @AMANDASANCHEZ As an in-house fit model and runway regular for Chanel (since 2001!), Sanchez has one of the more enviable workplaces. Look out for daily Instagram shots of her at work, with captions like: #waitingfortheboss while posing on the famous…

The white, bright space on the top floor of a building just north of Oxford Circus in London resembles the sort of office you might imagine in a creative-visualisation technique: spacious rooms filled with stylish, purposeful-looking men and women sitting around pristine work surfaces. I hazard a guess that a “no eating at your desk” policy is observed but I don’t get round to asking because Imran Amed is in full flight. The slightly built Canadian-born founder and editor-in-chief of The Business of Fashion (BoF), dressed in a Tomorrowland shirt and Robert Geller trousers, is taking me on a tour of the six-week-old surrounds of his fledgling empire. Actually, it’s as much to survey the Dinesen-style floorboards as it is to introduce me to the 17 nationalities that make up…

My real name was Arlette, but I chose Agnès Varda – it’s more regal. I changed my name when I was 17 or 18, because I hate names ending in “ette” – you know, it means the “small one” [in French]. Pierre … Pierrette. So I changed it and I had to reintroduce myself to people. Agnès is simple and the balance is better, so that’s why I chose it. But very early I tried to think I could choose my life, like the girl in Les 3 Boutons, the film I made for Miu Miu. This is part of the program you can have when you are 14 years old. I’m not saying that early in your life you can decide what you will be, but that there are…

Beauty is about illusions. Consider chiselled cheekbones (contouring), full, luscious lips (courtesy of lip liner) or thick, Cara-inspired brows (via a spoolie brush and a pencil). While some of us are lucky enough to be blessed with these attributes naturally, our beauty arsenal is designed to make things that simply aren’t there magically appear. But like any magic trick, self-tanners can induce hesitation and scepticism in even the most seasoned beauty buff. There’s something about the streaky and Fanta-hued limbs of summers past that has tanners on my list of beauty products I’ve tried but would prefer never to revisit. Until now, that is. You see, the newest bottled bronzing agents swap orange for natural glow and streaky for seamless. So good, in fact, you’ll think your eyes are playing…

IS FEAR THAT YOU FAILED TO STICK YOUR GUNS THE BEST WAY TO FUEL WILLPOWER? There are two types of people in an exercise class: the lean, toned, disciplined devotee who knows the instructor by name and high-fives and shares inside jokes with other regulars, and then those at the opposite scale, who are far less confident. Often rookies, these types will slide into the back row trying to blend into the crowd so they draw as little attention to themselves as possible as they wobble through a pose. I know which category I fall into … there’s something terrifying about laying yourself bare when your fitness is not at its peak. When asked about my fitness intentions, I’m also guilty of mumbling them in case my focus waivers after…

Acne (02) 9360 0294. Available from a selection at Bloodorange (02) 9357 2424 and Harrolds (02) 9232 8399. Acqua Brand Waterwear available from a selection at David Jones. Albertus Swanepoel www.albertusswanepoel.com. Alexander McQueen available from a selection at Cultstatus (08) 9481 8886, David Jones 133 357, Marais (03) 8658 9555 and www.Net-A-Porter.com. Alexander Wang available from a selection at Belinda (02) 9380 8725, Bloodorange (02) 9357 2424, David Jones 133 357 and The Corner Shop (02) 9380 9828; www.alexanderwang.com. Altuzarra available from a selection at www.matchesfashion.com and www.farfetch.com; www.josephaltuzarra.com. Apple Watch Hermès (02) 8083 9400. Arena www.arenawaterinstinct.com. Audemars Piguet www.audemarspiguet.com. Avène 1800 678 302. Baja East available from a selection at www.farfetch.com and www.Net-A-Porter.com; www.baja-east.com.Balenciaga clothing available from aselection at Parlour X (02) 9331 0999,Harrolds (02) 9232 8399, Marais…

LIPSTICK REPUBLIC Lipstick Republic is Australia’s Premier Cruelty Free Make-Up Store. An online beauty mecca for global brands with a unique cult following. With brands such as Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics, Nudestix, Sigma Beauty, BiteBeauty, Anastasia Beverly Hills, SauceBox, L.A. Girl, Jeffree Star Cosmetics and more. Lipstick Republic has quickly become Australia’s home for the worlds hard to find beauty brands. So why not discover something new, explore and step into a unique world of online beauty delivered to your door. www.lipstickrepublic.com.au /LIPSTICKREPUBLIC @lipstickrepublic @LipRepublic EMTE Emte is a shrine to understated embellishments, quality leather goods and signature pieces that promise to complete an outfit. With Australian Labels like The Horse, Status Anxiety and Samantha Wills dominating the brick and mortar store and our online boutique, you know you have come…

GERALDINE SAGLIO The stylist from French Vogue worked on “Hey, lady”, on page 136, collaborating with photographer Lachlan Bailey on the shoot. Paris-based Saglio said while she has worked with Bailey many times in the past, joining him on a studio shoot was a new adventure: “We usually go on location, so it was a really different approach to working with him. It was a nice experience.” Her new year’s resolution? “To play sports and get fit.” ROMY SOLEIMANI The New York-based make-up artist, who’s also the beauty director-at-large of Beauty.com, says working on the cover shoot was easy because Gemma Ward is a “natural beauty”. Of the cover brief, Soleimani says: “We spoke about really pushing the skin quality and giving Gemma an exaggerated glow.” The mum-of-two’s 2016 plan?…

Dressed in a navy blazer with a pocket square, shoe designer Edgardo Osorio’s appearance is somewhat deceptive. With his strong jawline and perfect wavy hair, reminiscent of a Disney Prince Charming, and his olive complexion befitting his Colombian birthplace, he might well give the impression he gets by on charm and looks alone. But, really, the designer’s success lies in his fastidious eye for shoe construction, as evidenced in his own footwear label, Aquazzura. Osorio was in his home city of Florence when he received the phone call asking him to collaborate on a capsule collection with Salvatore Ferragamo – a house with headquarters located less than 100 metres from the Aquazzura’s own studio and flagship store in Florence’s iconic Palazzo Corsini, and the location of Osorio’s own apartment. (A…

SUNSMART A must for all Australian beachgoers, the Cancer Council’s SunSmart app sends daily UV alerts to your phone or smart watch to help you stay sun-safe. BRAINWAVE Low-frequency sound combined with soft noise is said to influence brainwaves and boost sleep, relaxation, concentration and energy. Good for work and home. EVERNOTE With “cloud computing” a digital buzz-phrase of the last decade, this app transforms the concept to everyday use by making it easy to save online articles to read later and allowing you to have a common set of notes across all devices. CLUE It happens – so this needs no sell. The makers behind this period-tracking app have just closed US$7 million in funding.…

Australian artist Shilo Engelbrecht, who has recently returned home from a sojourn in Stockholm and honing her skills with Missoni in Italy, has channelled the spirit of summer for a new range of beach-inspired prints for a collection with Sportscraft. Here, she talks art, expression and inspiration. Vogue : Describe the collaboration with Sportscraft for the new beach capsule collection. Shilo Engelbrecht: “Sportscraft recently commissioned me to create an artwork for a limited range of beach products for this summer.” Vogue : What inspired the summery Sportscraft print? SE: “I paint abstract works using oils on large pieces of Swedish linen. Inspiration for colour combinations comes from nature to reflect stories, emotions and memories from growing up in South Africa and Australia, and the past seven years living abroad. The…

“I KNEW THAT IF A GROWTH POPS UP OUT OF NOWHERE, IT IS SOMETHING TO TAKE SERIOUSLY” I have always been lucky with my skin. It’s porcelain-pale, generally clear, and doesn’t freckle much. It’s been compared to an Italian Renaissance painting (thank you) and a ghost (no, thank you), and the sight of it consistently provokes apparently uncontrollable outbursts from others like: “You must never go in the sun!” I do, of course, go in the sun. How else can one play tennis, plant flowers or float on one’s back and look up at the sky? But when I go in the sun, I am covered. With long sleeves, with an umbrella (whether on the beach or having lunch alfresco), and with a hat. I swim in a hat. When…

THE AREA HAS DEVELOPED A DEFINITE AIR OF COOL, AT LEAST IN THE PEAK SUMMER SEASON About seven years ago, Clare Richardson met Dan Martensen for the first time. It was at the house he had just bought in the Catskill Mountains in upstate New York. Mutual friends had taken the English stylist to Bearsville, population 700, for a country weekend. Now, one home renovation and a wedding later, Richardson, a Vogue contributing fashion editor, and Martensen, a photographer from New York, divide their time between Clinton Hill, a leafy neighbourhood of brownstones in Brooklyn, and the Bearsville house, two and a half hours to the north. Back then, calling the former sheep farm a house was a bit of a stretch – it was really a small cabin and…