Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2024 i Vogue Australia

Golden age Less old-world decadence and more futuristic edge, the new gold – from molten lurex jacquard to spangled paillettes – is a forward-facing statement to lead with as party season approaches. Fringe movement The runways were awash with the swish of tasselled edges and fringed skirts that notch up the glamour factor, day and night. Instant insouciance. Served with a twist Designers draped and torqued fabrics to sculpt the most interesting shapes of the season and add a hint of drama to any outfit. Choose pieces that accentuate an asymmetrical silhouette. Modern persuasion The crisp and clean lines of 1960s abbreviated shifts and skirt suits serve as a visual palette cleanser. Pulled together with an undertone of youthful rebellion. Rounding off There's no contest for the bag of the…

With its blazing sun, Australia is a nation of hat-lovers who know their way around a wide brim. After a clutter of summer straw and raffia toppers crowded runways these past few seasons, the style-conscious have recognised an exciting union of practicality and creativity. Chanel's 1920s-inspired topper in ladylike shades, Moschino's elegant garden hat and Louis Vuitton's saucer hats in space-age white and jet black and clinically precise lines for resort '25 all offered shade and the allure of a half-obscured face. Trackside this spring racing season, look to labels capitalising on fashion's major hat moment. There's Jacquemus, whose soaringly large ‘chapeau bomba’ balanced atop Anya Taylor-Joy's head at Cannes, while another of the brand's hats was sweetly tied around her neck for a second look, reframing grand Riviera style…

Viewing the work of American artist Julie Mehretu is an immersive and intense experience. Her drawings, prints and large-scale abstract paintings are alive with intricately layered marks, lines and symbols. Gazing at them creates a sense of being pulled into the composition, where amid the seeming chaos, patterns and rhythms begin to emerge. For Mehretu, this interplay between her work and the observer is, in part, what drew her to this nonrepresentational style. “There's this kind of possibility available in abstraction that I find really intriguing,” she says. “In the space of searching and trying to find liberatory places in art-making, abstraction allows for a more experiential kind of dynamic with the viewer, one that is less instructive.” Mehretu was born in 1970 in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, to an American…

Cut above When a familiar name in jewellery set about embarking on one of its most ambitious projects to date, it turned to the enduring allure of the world's most desired gemstone. The 1979-founded antipodean jeweller, Michael Hill, has crafted its debut high jewellery collection with an emphasis entirely on diamonds. When writing a visual language, the stones were the leading lights in inspiring each piece, which Claire James, executive general manager, describes as an “eyecatching, artful display of light refraction”. Like the Bypass ring, which deploys a mix of marquise and pear cuts to amplify brilliance. “You want to look closely at the ring, not just because of its captivating outline, but because of the detail of the unique cuts that make it up,” she says.…

OBJECT OF DESIRE…

CURATED BY Working with creative directors of the most prestigious fashion houses must come with its pressures. Melbourne-born Talisa Trantino, however, views it through the lens of possibility. “The creative space and team, it allows [you] to realise big or impossible projects,” she says. Currently head of jewellery and special projects at Loewe, her path there saw her notch up stints at Alexander McQueen with Sarah Burton, Phoebe Philo at Céline and Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta. Now she's working with Jonathan Anderson as he blazes a trail at Loewe. Trantino is in a particularly compelling position, as she creates tension between the bold and minimalist all while resisting, not unlike Anderson, a horror vacui. Instead, she makes impactful, but not overtly elaborate cult pieces with which women are filling…

CHRISTINE CENTENERA: “From the very beginning, since I've known you, you have always loved babies.” ADUT AKECH BIOR: “I love babies, and I get super, super excited when it's people close to me, or people in my circle, who have babies. I just have this connection. I always say, ‘Show me the babies!’ I love babies. Babies are the cutest.” CC: “Watching you and knowing you over the years, I think that obviously comes from playing a mother figure in your family from a very young age. Your mother was young when she had you [at 20]. I think it's such a natural instinct of yours. You have four sisters and a brother, right?” AAB: “Mm-hmm.” CC: “And you're having a girl?” AAB: “I am having a girl!” CC: “Not…

At a friend's birthday dinner in Paris not long ago, I arrived late, sat and was questioned by my tablemates about what brought me to France, where I don't live. With the vagueness writers learn to cultivate for work in progress, I told them I was working on a piece about a fashion designer. “I hope it's Jacquemus,” someone across the table cut in. “Yeah, Jacquemus,” another agreed. The guests mostly weren't fashion people; they were movie people, businesspeople, people with kids, lawyers. But they had views about the brand. “You have the sense they're doing something new.” Strictly speaking, there is not so much new about Jacquemus, which was founded 15 years ago – an aeon in fashion – by a 19-year-old then known as Simon Porte, who gave…

BEAUTY If there was ever more proof needed that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the design duo behind the eponymous fashion house founded nearly four decades ago, believe in the power of winged eyeliner, it was written all over their recent spring runway. The collection, fittingly titled Italian Beauty and unveiled a stone's throw from the brand's Milanese HQ, featured all the hallmarks of a Dolce beauty moment: plumes of glorious hair (although this season it was bleached platinum), a slick of lipstick and a superb slash of liquid eyeliner peeking past the models’ lash line. For the front row contingent, it was as synonymous with the label's world as a cinched bodice or a little black dress. “The brand is intrinsically Italian from the roots up,” says Naoko Scintu,…

“This iconic bronzer gives true-to-skin glow, but this time with a hint of pink Pucci swirl for added glimmer as you shimmy from poolside to party.” “As a mum of two, I have precisely five minutes to get ready each morning. This product gives me salon-like waves in a flash. Then just spray, scrunch and go.” “My new ‘mum shoe’ for the weekend. In active mode, I wear them with tights chasing around my kids or otherwise with a cute little black slip.” “A newly opened sauna house in Sydney's Potts Point is centred on the mantra of ‘sweat, plunge, reset’. The 90-minute sessions, combining sauna and ice, instantly flick the switch to rejuvenation.”…

HEALTH Recently, in the name of research, I found myself on a waterbed for the first time since primary school. I put on a set of headphones, and the bed began to pulse in sync with the hypnotic, repetitive sounds blasting into my ears. My entire body was vibrating like the floor of a nightclub. As the tones began to vary, my mind went elsewhere, everywhere, nowhere. When I awoke 40 blissful minutes later, I certainly felt like my molecules had been rearranged. ‘A spa treatment for your DNA’ is the tagline for Quantum Clinic, a Los Angeles-based wellness centre that opened last year. The minimalist space may look like a Scandinavian luxury spa, but there are no mani-pedis here. Instead, it offers sound and vibration-based experiences referred to as…

The genius of Louis Vuitton's creative director Nicolas Ghesquière was in stark evidence during the house's autumn/winter '24/'25 runway show, released in March this year on the 10th anniversary of the designer's time at the brand. The collection drew on Ghesquière's myriad innovations over the past 10 years, from his futuristic tailoring to architectural silhouettes, intended to be archetypes of the modern wardrobe. In celebration of the show and to commemorate Ghesquière's decade at the house, Louis Vuitton held a soirée in partnership with Vogue in Sydney, at the cavernous Machine Hall in the CBD. Guests in attendance were allowed the rare privilege of being able to get up close to a selection of pieces and accessories from Louis Vuitton's womenswear autumn/winter '24/'25 collection, displayed along a walkway. As well…

Scorpio 24 October-22 November A New Moon plus asteroid Juno in your sign will push you to be your best self now, while a mid-month Full Moon may bring a sense of completion to a partnership. Your career is on point with Mars in the mix, and home life begins a major transformation under your co-ruler Pluto's influence. Money mishaps may occur with Mercury retrograde, so rein in the urge to splurge. STYLE ICON: Thandiwe Newton Sagittarius 23 November-21 December It's a big month for you, with the Sun bringing your annual energy boost. Don't let Mercury retrograde in your sign hold you back: it's there to help you refresh, not regress. A New Moon adds clear thinking, while a Full Moon resets your self-care and work ethic. Thanks to…

JESSE LIZOTTE A few months before South Australian supermodel Adut Akech Bior was expected to welcome her first child, photographer Jesse Lizotte travelled to the picturesque Adelaide Hills to capture the heavily pregnant beauty alongside her family for her eighth cover of Vogue Australia. “The energy on set was calm. I could feel Adut was most at ease when surrounded by her family,” says Lizotte, who adds he felt privileged to document such a poignant moment in the model's life. “It was important to celebrate motherhood and sisterhood by capturing moments in a reportage style that felt intimate and personal. I hope the viewer feels moved by these vignettes of connection set against the beautiful backdrop of nature.” LAURA MAZIKANA “This was my first time working with Adut, and I…

Schiaparelli Daniel Roseberry's mastery of couture techniques is the bedrock of this most contemporary fashion surrealism, combining nostalgia and seduction, all with the integrity of the petites mains. This is a house that celebrates techniques through exceptional creativity that in turn continues to burn so brightly on the red carpet. Standouts included the incredible silver embroidered feathery wings – the show's motif being the phoenix – plus the expertly slick satin cocktail dresses. Oh, and the tailored looks with their epic shoulders. It may have been inspired by 1950s Schiaparelli, but it nailed the now. Chanel It is tricky negotiating a collection without a lead designer, but the Chanel studio – all 150 of the craftsmen and women who work at the five ateliers within 31 rue Cambon – rose…

When fashion designer Rebecca Vallance and Nicky Hilton Rothschild join a video call from the latter's New York home – dressed casually, laughing while recounting the chaos caused by fashion week and a visiting president in the city – it feels as though they've been friends a long time. Not so. The designer and socialite first met just over a year ago in the same city, close to Hilton Rothschild's apartment in NoHo. “My family and I have been wearing Rebecca's designs for a few years – a couple of years ago I reached out to her about a dress I was fiending after that was sold out everywhere,” Hilton Rothschild recalls. “We sort of formed this little pen-pal relationship. She was coming to NYC, so we met up for…

WATCHES & JEWELLERY Long before Victoire de Castellane had ever heard of ASMR, otherwise known as autonomous sensory meridian response, a physiological reaction to visual or aural stimuli that's fuelled a social media phenomenon, she experienced her own curious response to a sound. “The noise of the jewellery that I saw on women,” she recalls of a childhood encounter. It set her on a trajectory that would define her life. “For me, all the charms make a noise and suddenly it puts me into something like a trance. The chimes of jewellery clashing together was hypnotic.” That childlike enchantment is a feeling de Castellane brings with levity, and also dutiful determination, in her role at the house of Dior where she became the Maison's first artistic director of jewellery in…

WATCHES & JEWELLERY Elegance and freedom of movement, informed by the dynamism of sport, is underscored in cord-like ropes and tasselled ends that swing freely, as imagined by Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio. Functionality meets sensuality in articulated links, snaking lines and the rhythm of shapes repeated. The intensely coloured precious stones make an emphatic statement.…

Cushla Whiting At 2013-founded jewellery business Cushla Whiting, it's a family affair. A father, who imported diamonds in New Zealand, sparked the idea for the now Melbourne-based brand made up of siblings Hamish, who sources gemstones as in-house gemologist, Anna on the business side, and namesake Cushla as creative lead. Her sister describes Cushla, who is architecturally trained, as a “perfectionist” who builds on her background to create striking geometries and timeless jewellery box staples. “Just as great architecture creates timeless spaces, jewellery, too, must be crafted to stand the test of time,” says Cushla. In 11 years, the company has become a go-to for bespoke creations, and trusted to rework heirlooms into keepsakes by introducing rare stones like Nigerian teal sapphires and rare Muzo emeralds. The current mission? To…

It's four o'clock on a Sunday afternoon and, despite the boisterous winter wind roaring across the rooftop of a Darlinghurst warehouse, Whitney Peak is unflappable. The Sydney chill pales in comparison to a Melbourne winter, where the Ugandan-Canadian actor has spent the past two months – “in water, all of the time,” she says – filming the shark thriller, Beneath the Storm opposite Bridgerton's Phoebe Dynevor. “From every character you learn a little bit more about yourself,” says Peak during a whirlwind 24-hour stopover in Sydney before jetting back to New York. “Whether it's just reading how they would handle certain situations and circumstances, and then thinking, ‘Oh, I would do it this way,’ and maybe you don't really think about things like that in the day-to-day.” At just 21,…

You're blushing!” my sister cries with delight. We're playing on the front steps of our London house and have just heard skateboard wheels approaching. I am 13 and in love with the skateboard's owner, a boy who lives up the street whom I've never actually spoken to. He has long sandy hair and an American accent. Basically, he's Kurt Cobain. It's magical and mortifying and a secret – except it's not, because it's written all over my face. If the eyes are the window to the soul, then our cheeks are the back door. What other part of the body so readily reveals our hidden emotions? Embarrassment, exuberance, delight, desire, all instantly communicated with a rush of blood. It's no wonder that blush has been a mainstay of make-up bags…

SOIRÉE Ahead of Sydney Dance Company's upcoming season Twofold, more than 550 friends and supporters gathered at Sydney's Walsh Bay precinct for the annual Dance Noir gala and glittered up to match the theme: punk royal. Living up to its reputation as Sydney's A-list arts party of the year, the event once again sold out and raised more than $850,000 to support the training and international touring commitments of Australia's most talented dancers, who also performed several contemporary pieces throughout the evening. Guests included SDC artistic director Rafael Bonachela, board members Bianca Spender and Alex Schuman, CEO of Carla Zampatti, designers Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales, creatives Joshua and Jo Yeldham, Jordan Askill, Jordan Gogos, Louise Olsen and Stephen Ormandy, athletes Ian Thorpe and Harry Garside, Dance Noir committee member…

The prawns are peeled, the pavlova is whisked, and in the corner of a brandy butter-coloured formica kitchen, a man is making gravy. Flour, salt, red wine and a dash of tomato sauce. Binge's first film, How to Make Gravy, opens on a Christmas vignette steeped in nostalgia. Based on the legendary Paul Kelly song – Hello Dan, it's Joe here/I hope you're keeping well – and directed by Nick Waterman from a script co-written with his wife, the musician Meg Washington, the movie takes Kelly's famous epistolary lyrics and unfurls them like a hard-won paper crown. The result is this warm, sunlit gift of a film, the unlikely feel-good story of an incarcerated father and the family he misses so much. It is a movie so full of empathy,…

Looking at the spirited and graphic zoological jewellery by French designer Gabrielle Greiss would indicate a lifelong fascination with animals, but that isn't necessarily the case. “I didn't have a pet until my cat, Furcoat, insisted on moving in with me [as a young adult],” Greiss recalls. “She made me a bit like David Attenborough, observing her habits and body language, and started to amaze me. Her independence, her calmness when she wants to be left alone, her insistence when she wants something … she embodies the essence of a happy being.” Cats are just one animal depicted in Greiss's creations, which render various species in different states of repose and movement. Her talismanic necklaces, earrings and pendants are made from gold- and silver-plated bronze and inspired by Roman and…

WATCHES & JEWELLERY How long does it take to create an icon? For Paspaley the answer could be just over a decade, or it could be 90 years, depending how you look at it. The luxury pearler has been creating jewellery with the world's best pearls sourced from its farms in remote north-western Australia since its first in-house collection in 2003. It has, however, been braving the extreme environment of the 2,500 kilometres of coastline at its pearl farms for close to 90 years, since founder Nicholas Paspaley Snr, a dauntless Greek immigrant took a plucky gamble on the wild beauty of his new homeland, and bought a pearling lugger in the 1930s. These dual parts eventually converged in the house's triumph of design – the Lavalier – debuted in…

Gérald Genta, the heroically prolific and celebrated watch designer, once said of the integrated bracelet he designed for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972 that seeing just a few millimetres of it was enough to understand the watch entirely. “You don't need to see everything, which confirms how important it is!” the designer said in an interview. A watch bracelet might not inspire immoderate nerding-out in the manner of highly technical complications, but it can be one of its most distinguishing design facets. In 2024, watch bracelets have been a particular focus, from the return of chain-style bracelets to new techniques in goldsmithing. The importance of the bracelet is as true for any one of Rolex's instantly recognisable bracelets, from the Jubilee to the President, as it is the…

Water colours For a modern take on metallics, draw outside the lines. Forgo definition for a halo of reflective pigment from brow to cheekbone and beyond. Softly, softly When it comes to lustrous make-up, transparency is key. Let your natural complexion peek through highlighted eyelids and cheeks. And for lips? Press metallic eyeshadow over your favourite lipstick or balm for a radiant sheen that lasts all day.…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA: When was the first time you encountered a Rabanne fragrance and what are your memories of that moment? GIGI HADID: “An ex of the past wore Rabanne for Men. That was 10, maybe 13 years ago. I think that it reminds me of a young, fun part of my life. I don't know exactly the first time I smelled a Rabanne fragrance, but thinking about it does take me on kind of a time machine; little movie snippets of that time of my life, which is always fun.” VA: You're the face of Rabanne's Million Gold For Her fragrance. How would you describe it in three words? GH: “I would say invigorating. I like when something wakes up a part of your brain. My second word would be…

THE TREATMENT: Rejuran THE LOWDOWN: After years of popularity in Asia (particularly South Korea), Rejuran has hit mainstream Australia. You've probably heard it referred to as ‘salmon sperm injections’, because the main active ingredient is extracted from salmon sperm DNA. It's aimed at clients wanting to promote skin hydration, regeneration, textural changes and to treat fine lines and wrinkles. The 15-minute treatment triggers fibroblasts, the cells responsible for the skin's natural collagen production via polynucleotide DNA fragments, its key ingredient. It's an injectable, so is administered into the dermis on areas such as face, eyes, neck, hands or décolletage. Numbing cream is applied prior to the procedure to reduce discomfort, but there can still be some pain. Generally, two treatments are required at four-week intervals. *Always read the label and…