Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2017 i Vogue Australia

I am writing this from Milan, where I’ve just seen the latest Gucci ready-to-wear collection by genius designer Alessandro Michele, held in the house’s new show space on the outskirts of the city. Inside the venue, giant curtains of the most beautiful purple hue were lifted to reveal a raised runway housed in Perspex tubes on a stage dubbed “the Alchemist’s Garden: an anti-modern laboratory”. Michele collaborated with photographer and artist Coco Capitán to create slogan T-shirts and the show invitation, which read: “What are we going to do with all the future?” Other slogans in Capitán’s signature sketchy font included “Common sense is not so common” and “Tomorrow is now yesterday”. And for his final bow, Michele wore his and Capitán’s favourite T-shirt, printed with the words: “I want…

CHRISTIANE SPANGSBERG Copenhagen-based artist Christiane Spangsberg created the artwork accompanying “Generation anxiety”, on page 203. Christiane said the article inspired her: “It gave me a feeling I could relate to: anxiety, which comes from the constant feeling of having to be online.” ANTHONY LISTER Artist Anthony Lister “activated” public walls in Bondi for our Karlie Kloss cover and even put his mark on our masthead. On the shoot day, Lister also found himself in front of the camera as the skater behind Kloss in an image in “Just add water” – see page 158. “It wasn’t until they’d exhausted all their options when I suggested that I could skate the big bowl,” he says. KERRIE McCALLUM Kerrie McCallum, editor-in-chief of Delicious, lent her expertise to write “Plate up”, on page…

We were all young once. An obvious sentiment, but it does mean there’s a common denominator, something we have collectively experienced: youth is a time of awakening, of discovery. And while we might not all want to return to micro-minis or bralettes as tops, when we pass that phase it doesn’t mean we should leave behind the willingness to experiment. A breezy modernity can be imbued into a tired wardrobe through a colour, or a silhouette. Try neon as at Alexander Wang, who touched on the surf-meets-skate Cali counterculture. Dabble in a balloon sleeve as at Fendi, where Karl Lagerfeld employed a hint of kawaii quirk. Dip into a shrunken biker as at Courrèges. More shapes to try: a puffed shoulder, sleeves that dangle beyond the fingertips. More fabrics? Leather…

“WE MEASURE SUCCESS ON CREATING BEAUTIFUL OBJECTS” Two minutes before a scheduled phone call with one of the most important shoemakers of our time, a terrible realisation dawns: I am not wearing shoes. It is 6am and the prospect that the man referred to as the emperor of shoes, who has created the “sole of perfection”, as Beatrix Miller once put it, might somehow intuit bare-footedness seems real. A quick change and my anxiety is assuaged, even though the call is of the landline type, not Skype. Which seems to suit Manolo Blahnik himself equally well. “I don’t like myself anymore. In the pictures, I am talking about. As a person I can tolerate myself. In pictures I don’t,” he says, with complete sincerity. He is in the minority. Blahnik,…

Chefs. There can be no debating they are the rock stars of the gastronomic world. Throw 50 of the most creative, charismatic and somewhat crazy men on the planet in a well-fed and lubricated room and watch the fireworks begin: welcome to the World’s 50 Best Restaurant awards. It is a heady celebration of gastronomy, talent, mayhem and tight tuxedos and this month it’ll be held in Australia for the first time. But what does this mean for our ever-expanding food industry, and where does this place us on the culinary map? And, more intriguingly, why have only a few female chefs ever made the list? Considered the annual barometer of the greatest food and wine experiences around the globe right now, the list is selected by the World’s 50…

style tip A delicate crown is on the money. Keep it subtle, as decorative gold can easily careen into costume territory. A light hand with embellishment is the winning ticket.…

“HATS ARE DIRECTLY IN THE LINE OF VISION OF THE OBSERVER. THEY FOCUS THE ATTENTION” The millinery department at Fortnum & Mason is exactly as you hope it might be: carpeted, reassuringly elegant, spotlights trained on hats and bejewelled headpieces like miniature sculptures, the noise a hushed murmur. It is autumn and the glass tables are full of beanies and tam o’shanters, tweed paperboys and smart country fedoras of rabbit-fur felt, finished with bands of grosgrain ribbon or feathers. The number of headbands with veils, berets with veils, trilbies with veils – “Veils are huge,” says Fortnum’s accessories buyer, Sarah Burton – suggests millinery is going through a major coquette phase (and by extension us, too). The question of who wears hats these days is answered by a glance. A…

Bare-faced You prefer the less-is-more approach to beauty and are delighted no-make-up make-up is still a thing. This season you’re a Christian Dior girl through ’n’ through. The naturalist Enhancing your natural features is of utmost importance to you. This being said, Topshop Unique’s “your curls but better” moment last season is the only reference you need. The purist If it’s not a staple, why bother? Classic red lips, swipes of eyeliner and a big dose of mascara are your calling cards. Giambattista Valli’s painted ladies are your season’s muses. 80s girl Your beauty muses Madonna and Debbie Harry would be thrilled with your daring approach to beauty. Louis Vuitton’s warrior women are your beauty gurus this season. CROWN JEWEL A new haven dedicated to luxury and skincare has opened…

When actor Devon Terrell walked onto the stage to rousing applause at the Toronto Film Festival last September, he made an announcement to the audience: “Not to scare anyone, but I’m Australian.” It was a playful way to greet the crowd, who burst into incredulous laughter hearing his Aussie drawl. Having just watched the 24-year-old actor from Perth play a college-age Barack Obama in the Netflix bio-drama Barry, they assumed the flawless American accent they had heard was his own. If anything, it was his nailing the former US president’s timbre and mannerisms that would have left an impression. Terrell chuckles in recalling the reaction. It’s a deep, hearty laugh I’ve heard often since arriving in the photo studio on the morning of Vogue’s shoot with the NIDA-trained actor, whose…

People say you get used to the water views, but no! Having been brought up in a Soviet apartment with a small window I will never get sick of it.” Alina Barlow is showing me through the stunning home she and husband Scott have recently finished building after buying a block of land some years ago. It is perched on the harbour in an exclusive enclave in Sydney’s east and the views are indeed spectacular, especially for someone who spent the first 20 years of her life enduring long, dark snowy winters in St Petersburg. The couple chose to be closely involved in both the interiors and design of their family home, created by founding director of prestige architecture firm Tzannes, Alec Tzannes. “Part of Scott’s work is designing residential…

Nashville, Tennessee The moment you walk into the lobby of the Hutton Hotel in downtown Nashville you’re met with a cascade of “sir”s and “ma’am”s – “Good afternoon, sir”, “Would you like some water, ma’am?” – in a welcoming display of old-school manners for which the American South is deservedly known. But this hotel certainly doesn’t feel old-school – a sculptural steel horse takes pride of place in the lobby alongside inviting leather sofas facing rows of framed paintings and photographs. The modern yet comfortable lobby segues into the award-winning 1808 Grille restaurant, where the New American menu focuses on seasonal and locally grown produce. The 1808 Grille is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends – but you might also want to check out…

Vogue’s March cover star: Cindy Crawford The iconic supermodel covered last month’s issue of Vogue, in which she talks about modelling, her family and more. Angie Morris wrote on Facebook: “I love it when Vogue put a 40-plus fabulous woman on the cover! Love her.” On Instagram: @janinedelloart “A strong lady, stood the test of time and is an inspiration.” @francdarc “YES – love love love this. Vogue Australia absolutely has the best covers.” @shanellejadeeox “She’s total goals!!!!!!” FAMILY RULES The Rule family (above) from our March issue, starred in an Australian reality series that recently aired on SBS. Crystal Jane wrote on Facebook: “I really want to watch this!” Hannah Moloney said: “This is the show. So good.” CLIENT LIAISON The 80s are back and the March issue paid…

A few years back, before Anthony Vaccarello was named creative director at Yves Saint Laurent, I commented that his designs, with the slits up above the hipbone and hemlines skirting the upper parts of the thigh, were decidedly sexy. “No, not sexy,” he said in surprise, explaining that he cut them that way to make it easier for the woman to move. Old habits die hard, I see, when his debut for Yves Saint Laurent for the spring/summer ’17 season had women swing by in liquid metallic skirts hitched up to the waist with swathes of leather sitting high on the leg. You’d think by now we’d be used to skin-baring ways. The number of centimetres in skirt lengths should not have a direct relationship to the level of maturity,…

CULT ITEMS The fashion equivalent of an ah-ha moment is discovering the piece all the cool girls wear is in actual fact not vintage, or in an inaccessible price bracket, but from a ships-everywhere online label. Réalisation Par and Staud are two such brands whose flippy wrap dresses and bucket bags respectively are cult items that regularly sell out. INSTANT TREND UPDATE A low-risk wardrobe investment allows room for experimentation. Mango is bookmarked by girls like Patricia Manfield and Giorgia Tordini, who regularly top up their wardrobes with their easy pieces. New York’s Pixie Market and Los Angeles-based Loéil are two more best-kept editor secrets known for their trend-driven inventory. VACATION-READY Swingy linen 70s-inflected dresses and ruffled separates have made Melbourne label Steele a sell-out, and UK-based Pampelone draws inspiration…

Maha Kutay picks up the Dictaphone and places it in her palm of her outstretched hand. She pretends to look at it in bewilderment, and giggles. She is shy and economical with her words, but Boris Barboni, Bulgari’s head of marketing, describes her as “polite but strong-minded” – the perfect soft power to promote Zaha Hadid’s design aesthetic as the late architect’s trusted accomplice. Having been tasked to establish and head Zaha Hadid Design 10 years ago, she is in Miami for the design practice’s latest project: reinvigorating Bulgari’s B.zero1 ring. And with Hadid’s death last year, Kutay is now Zaha Hadid Design’s spokesperson, a new role for her, meaning she’s not used to Dictaphones. When art and architecture collaborates with fashion, synergies and parallel aesthetics often occur. Not necessarily…

She perfected flapper style in The Great Gatsby and holiday chic in The Night Manager, but here Elizabeth Debicki gives her tips on racing elegance. What is your top racing style advice? Elizabeth Debicki: “Wear something you’re comfortable in and be weather-appropriate; maybe something floaty if it’s a hot day. And shoes: make sure you’re comfortable. No-one likes sore feet. And don’t take them off and put them in your handbag!” When choosing headwear, what should we look out for? ED: “Headwear can be so glamorous. I think you can either go subtle or you go really big.” Fascinator or hat? ED: “I think both are timeless: it depends. Both are beautiful, but I think everybody knows what suits them best.” What is your favourite racing fashion? ED: “You can’t…

style tip Felt, not straw, is the one rule to follow. Other than that, a refined brim brings a dash of adventure, with a tip of the hat to equestrian pastimes.…

“THESE EXERCISES WILL STRETCH AND ACTIVATE THE FACIAL MUSCLES” Your face finishes at your boobs.” As a beauty editor, I’ve heard this phrase countless times from dermatologists, facialists and anyone else who cares about skin enough to know that any cream, serum, essence or youth-infusing tonic should not only be used on the face, but also applied as diligently on the neck and décolletage. After all, skin is skin. Now, apply the same principle to exercise. Fitness routines and repetitive exercises to build and shape muscle – practices usually reserved for south of the neckline – are being introduced into daily skincare regimens to promote circulation and improve overall skin tone. While kneading, flexing and prodding your facial contours might seem like an odd concept, it’s a centuries-old beauty practice…

DAVID JUSTIN, FOUNDER AND CEO Mr. Smith Bar the words Mr. Smith etched across the centre of the white bottle or tube, it’s difficult to decipher what Mr. Smith actually is, or who should be using it. But that’s the point. “As a brand, Mr. Smith is more androgynous and less sex-driven. Our imagery, marketing and packaging reflect this, and I believe that this has resonated with a consumer who is more confident, self-assured and independent,” says founder David Justin of the unisex hair-care range that has expanded from a shampoo and conditioner to 18 products in just over two years. The fact that it looks good on the bathroom shelf isn’t a coincidence: Mr. Smith’s aesthetic was shaped by the fashion industry (Justin’s mother, a hairstylist and now creative…

“I’M SURE PEOPLE UNDERESTIMATE ME ALL THE TIME, BUT THAT ONLY MOTIVATES ME TO PROVE THEM WRONG AND BEAT THEM AT THEIR OWN GAME” Leaning back in her chair, Karlie Kloss is looking out the floor-to-ceiling windows across the Sydney cityscape. “You know, maybe the next time you speak to me, somewhere like this will be my office,” she says with an impish smile, waving her hands around the space with a flourish. “I’ll be the CEO, with a big boardroom, the corner office.” Even though she is laughing while she is saying this, I am certain she is completely serious. Everything about Kloss visually clocks in as supermodel, a self-evidence that would not pass anyone by. Exhibit A: here photographed for Vogue Australia on Bondi Beach. All long…

For Milan-based designer Cristina Celestino, humour – in addition to beauty – lies in the details. “There’s always a touch of irony,” she says of her work, in which a mane of colourful fringe, the unexpected shape of an earring back, or coils of passementerie deliver jolts of fun to modern silhouettes. Celestino, who studied architecture at the Università Iuav di Venezia and launched her own design practice, Attico, in 2009, has teamed up with Fendi for a fizzy collection of furnishings that made its debut at Design Miami. She started this project, like most of her others, in the library, leafing through design books on the likes of Paolo Venini, Guglielmo Ulrich, Carlo Scarpa and Le Corbusier. It was Italian architect Gio Ponti’s Villa Planchart that ultimately caught her…

A.L.C. from a selection at www.matchesfashion.com and www.shopbop.com; www.alcltd.com. Adriana Orsini from a selection at www.saks.com. African Botanics from a selection at www.meccacosmetica.com.au. Agmes www.agmesnyc.com. Aje from a selection at Myer 1800 811 611; www.a-j-e.com.au. Alex Perry from a selection at Myer 1800 811 611. Alexander McQueen from a selection at David Jones 133 357, Harrolds 1300 755 103 and www.Net-A-Porter.com. Alexander McQueen eyewear from a selection at Sunshades Eyewear (02) 8303 7300. Alexander Wang from a selection at Belinda (02) 9380 8725 and David Jones 133 357; www.alexanderwang.com. All Blues www.allblues.se. Ann Shoebridge www.annshoebridge.com. Annelise Michelson www.annelisemichelson.com. Annie Costello Brown www.anniecostellobrown.com. Asilio from a selection at Myer 1800 811 611. Balenciaga from a selection at Harrolds 1300 755 103 and Parlour X (02) 9331…

Karlie Kloss Watch our exclusive behind-the-scenes video where model-turned-coding-queen Karlie Kloss takes the Bondi Rescu e team through a lifeguard bootcamp. ALL ABOUT EYES: From colour blocking to the best cat’s eyes to inspire you, ready-to-wear spring/summer ’17 was all about the eyes and Vogue has your how-tos sorted. MODEL BUSINESS Beauty and brains: learn about the models who have started their own businesses. Follow the music Head to Vogue.com.au this month for behind-the-scenes coverage straight from California to see what everyone is wearing at the most stylish music festival of the year.…

The multi-award winning winter festival attracted over 2.3 million people in 2016, cementing its position as the largest event of its kind in the world. In 2017, Vivid Sydney will return with an inspiring new program of amazing light art, cutting-edge music performances, creative talks, workshops and showcases. The creative heart of Sydney will be illuminated from 6pm to 11pm every night with the Vivid Light program of projections, light sculptures and installations. Each one is designed to engage the senses and emotions with interactive and immersive experiences. For melodic vibes, Vivid Music will again expand musical horizons with a celebration of breakthrough performers and the best in current and future music leaders. 2017 will see over 250 music events held in venues across Sydney. Meanwhile, Vivid Ideas is Australia’s…

ROMANCE WAS BORN “The AFC has helped us grow our business internationally, which is something we wouldn’t have been able to do by ourselves as a small, independent business. Showing in Paris has meant that we have really focused our attention on the detailing and quality of our garments. Developing beautiful fabrications and interesting textiles is our passion, so the showroom has been a driving motivation for us. To see our business growing means so much to us, especially as we have been in business now for 10 years. Looking internationally is a natural progression for the brand.” – A nna Plunkett and Luke Sales, Romance Was Born CHRISTOPHER ESBER “The Designers Abroad initiative through the AFC is an opportunity that resonates and aligns with the overarching vision for the…

“WE’VE ALL LOVED. WE’VE ALL LOST. WE’VE ALL FELT JOY AND SADNESS IN EQUAL MEASURE” Ask Karen Elson to describe the theme of her new country-folk record Double Roses and her response is: “a woman looking inward”. Her manifesto? “Vulnerability.” For those unfamiliar with Elson’s music, up to this point her output has been tinged with heady mystery and femme fatale-isms, which, one could say, aligns with her most notable work as a model (her YSL Opium campaign and the majority of her 20-plus Vogue Italia covers, for example). Where her first album, The Ghost Who Walks, was a magical folk record of tall tales and murder ballads, almost seven years later we find the 38-year-old revealing the woman behind the frame. “There is a Fleetwood Mac song, Storms,” she…

style tip More understated than a sweeping brim and more of an accent than a wispy fascinator, toppers that take cues from turbans, berets and pillbox hats have the right amount of flair.…

Jodi Gordon!” says the designer Han Chong when he hears that I’m from Australia. He pulls out his phone and flips through images on his album, landing on one of Gordon wearing a black and white jumpsuit from his label Self-Portrait at a Sydney race day. And then another of her in a maroon red loop lace mini-dress. His phone is filled with women wearing his clothes, from familiar names like Reese Witherspoon to the Duchess of Cambridge to non-celebrity customers whom Chong regularly checks up on by keeping tabs on his label’s Instagram account and hashtags. (If you’ve worn Self-Portrait and taken a photo of it, it’s likely Chong has seen it.) Self-Portrait’s success has been defined by social media, which Chong embraces. “Social media is now all about…

At just 24, Staz Lindes is on the verge of becoming a household name. The musician – her band the Paranoyds, a four-piece based in Los Angeles, play the Golden State’s music of choice, garage punk – and model, who has walked for both Moschino and Saint Laurent, was tapped by the latter to front the brand’s beauty line. (Former Saint Laurent creative director Hedi Slimane first spotted Lindes performing on stage.) The blonde, blue-eyed beauty, who admits she would rather talk songs than fashion (“I can express myself most freely with music”), may come from music royalty – her father is Dire Straits guitarist Hal Lindes – but it seems the worlds of fashion and beauty can’t get enough. “I started getting scouted as soon as I was 13…

Draping me in a black cape and observing my post-hair-wash reflection in the mirror, my hairstylist, John, combs back my strands in the same way my mother would when I was five, then asks the inevitable question: “Which side do you part your hair?” “Kind of here,” I respond, pointing vaguely left-of-centre. Truth be told, I’ve been hovering in a state of “partlessness” for some time, flicking my tresses from side to side and in turn, confusing my hair’s natural ability to find its groove. The minute my follicle memory knows where to fall, I flick it to other side, forcing it to be unpredictable and most importantly, not fall flat on my scalp. But after John took the metal tip of his comb and etched a military-precise track from…

Beauty note : Max Factor Marilyn Monroe Lipstick Collection lipstick in Marilyn Berry Red.…

“TODAY MORE THAN EVER THERE IS CURRENCY IN BEING A DISRUPTER” In secret, at ungodly hours when everyone is asleep, or sometimes before anyone is awake, I go searching. With the room bathed in the glare of electro-blue phone light, I conduct a sometimes so-lengthy-it’s-eye-watering sweep of social media in search of the ultimate in fashion quarry: the new label. Perhaps it’s a fledgling start-up, a brand that is difficult to ship to Australia or an online-only jewellery label that does custom-name earrings. The one common denominator though: it must be new and it must be different. When it comes to fashion, anyone with internet access can tell you the hunt has changed. The ephemera of online feeds and the high speed of an ultra-connected world play to frighteningly shortened…

Keeping too many tabs open will drain your batteries, my five-year-old daughter likes to remind me before helpfully offering to close them. It might be a ploy to get her hands on my phone, but it is also a neat metaphor for modern life: many of us are running around with too many tabs open inside our heads. We constantly toggle between screens, compulsively check social media, multi-task and then cancel commitments because we are so exhausted. So it’s no surprise recent studies have declared millennials, especially women, the most anxious generation in history. Anxiety comes in many forms, but the simplest way to describe it is feeling worried or nervous about the future or uncertain situations. In small doses, anxiety can help motivate us to get things done. However,…

ARIES 21 MARCH – 19 APRIL What you thought you wanted could turn out to be not what you wanted at all this month. It might be your heart making promises your head can’t keep. If in doubt, wait it out, as relationships, career or travel could be temporarily in limbo. If money is a factor in your decisions, the end of the month brings you new options. STYLE ICON: Rooney Mara TAURUS 20 APRIL – 20 MAY Once you decide to do something there’s no stopping you. This is your most motivated month to upgrade your health, work or to reinvent yourself, and looking back at what has been could be the jump-start you need to move your life forwards. Reconnecting with old friends or past lovers is also…

KIRA PIZZINGRILLI A ready to wear label that maintains a modern design aesthetic whilst complementing a classic feminine silhouette. Each print is an original design, which adds a point of difference to each collection. For the love of arts and creativity, KIRA PIZZINGRILLI continues to gain traction as the label is introduced to the industry. Proudly made in Australia. hellothere@kirapizzingrilli.com kirapizzingrilli.com STYLE SECRET HANDBAG HIRE Hire the latest range of designer handbags from Saint Laurent, Chanel, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and much more from as little as $30! Enter code: Vogue at the checkout to get $20 off your hire. hire@stylesecret.com.au 1300 4 STYLE stylesecret.handbaghire stylesecret.com.au GYSETTE Gysette represents fashion that women want to wear which aligns with their busy and active lifestyle. Incorporating soft beautiful pieces with a touch…