Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2016 i Vogue Australia

Just a few weeks after I had attended the Taylor Swift concert in Sydney, during which Taylor’s “squad” appeared on giant screens, original squad member Selena Gomez released Hands to Myself with Victoria’s Secret models lip-syncing the song. Gomez had first performed the hit on stage at the Victoria’s Secret show that week. The video has had over 1 million views to date, and her original Victoria’s Secret stage performance has been seen by more than 10 million. This all sounds rather impressive, but when Selena Gomez is involved you should expect big numbers. She is officially the most followed person in the world on Instagram, with 90 million fans (more than Swift) and counting, which means almost one-fifth of all Instagram users follow her. Not bad statistics. There is…

Unpacking the new season can be like playing spot-the-difference. What’s new? At Chloé, at Ellery, at John Galliano and at Jil Sander, elongated sleeves asserted themselves as a form of newness, attached to recognisable silhouettes. There’s the business shirt, the peasant blouse and the fluid maxi all with augmented sleeves trumpeting outwards like modern-day engageantes. It’s a teenage surliness and a free-flowing spirit all in one. The template for an appropriate sleeve length? Cuffs should clear the fingertips. IMPROPER POSTURE Phoebe Philo talked about “finding the possibilities” in a wardrobe this season. Designers did by creating amplified profiles, distorting shoulders, waists and hips. Hold on to the thought that visual challenges can become major trends.…

Helly Hansen ski wear + a disco ball + Cristóbal Balenciaga’s “portrait” neckline = THE NEW BALENCIAGA A fringed lamp + Josephine Baker = BALMAIN’S FRINGED FEMME FATALES The Muppets’ Gonzo + a brooch = MIU MIU’S SHAGGY SLIDES Emilie Flöge + a ribbon = ROBERTO CAVALLI’S BO-HAUTE BEAUTIES Delaunay + a hunting pouch = MARNI’S PUNCHY PAPER-BAG WAIST Rosary beads + Prince = RALPH LAUREN’S DECADENT DILETTANTES Princess Diana + wedding cake = RODARTE’S SACCHARINE SILHOUETTES Grateful Dead poster + Toy Story’s Woody = MARY KATRANTZOU’S TRIPPY TEXANS Fettuccine + Kendo mitts = LOEWE’S SHREDDED GLOVES Elvis in a Hawaiian shirt + Medieval royal dress + Popeye = PRADA’S VARICOLOURED VAGABONDS Fantastic Mr. Fox + crystals = CALVIN KLEIN’S NATURAL ELEMENTS Heathers + Teddy boys = ISABEL MARANT’S COOL…

Pansies for your thoughts, said Ophelia in Hamlet , and rosemary for remembrance. Flowers are weighted in meaning – in and out of the context of fashion. Flowers have over-grown their standard spring-season presence, blooming in autumn/winter16/ 17, too. But intrigue in fashion comes from the unexpected: flowers are emblems for the twee, the pretty, but here there is no clear lightness, no chintz in sight. These are roses with thorns, with pronounced hard-edged forms, and Ophelia was called to mind at Preen and Erdem – the darkened and emboldened shapes full of promise to set alight winter dressing. SELF PORTRAIT I’m never tired of velvet, says Giorgio Armani, who was inspired by the material this season. Armani looked to his own wardrobe too. Today, we hear a lot about…

How does swimwear fit with your main line? Stella McCartney: “It seemed quite natural for me to take the lingerie that I’ve been designing many years into swimwear, and I think it is an incredible area for us as a brand to work in. I think it’s exciting to bring the elements from the ready-to-wear collection on your holiday, onto the beach and to your swimming pool.” What elements do you think make up the ideal swimsuit? SM: “I find that as a woman the times you are in your swimwear are some of the most vulnerable moments; when you are in the beach and exposing your body it can be quite daunting. So I want to make women feel their best, comfortable and confident at all times. For this…

Ahoy Prada’s wayfaring woman is moving so fast she doesn’t heed time zones, or dress codes. Go where she goes with assorted souvenirs jangling from the neck, bag and belt, and a sailor’s hat for pulling into port. A BUG’S LIFE THERE’S MORE THAN A HINT OF AN INSECT FORM MELDED WITH NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE’S SIGNATURE BIONIC TOUCH IN LOUIS VUITTON’S EARRINGS. Cinderella moment A fanciful filigree minaudière and transparent slippers should be worn all at once as per Dolce & Gabbana’s imaginings. Approved to wear after the stroke of midnight. Driving Miss Daisy Restrained in their form but outré in their metallic patina, Tod’s loafers are for driving off into the sunset without looking back. Earn your stripes There s something mad about Gucci s zebra pumps. Complete with lush…

“IN THIS WONDER WOMAN BOOK, FEMINISM IS AN ABSOLUTELY KEY PART” I first saw Wonder Woman when I was four years old. I can remember sitting on the sofa with my sisters and female cousins when the TV show came on. They weren’t interested, but I was obsessed. She was my first introduction to a superhero and was a fictional character that I fixated on. And I never grew out of it. It was because of Wonder Woman that I decided to draw comics. “I originally wanted to be an actress – I even auditioned for a Wonder Woman TV show once – but about 15 years ago I decided it wasn’t for me. I found it demoralising being constantly rejected, which is crazy since I went from one creative…

MIRROR, MIRROR At Burberry Prorsum s autumn/winter 16/ 17 show iridescent droplets cascaded down cheekbones. Here, it goes to extreme lengths. DEEP BLUE Eyelids get the royal treatment with painterly azure swatches. L’Oréal make-up artist Karim Rahman teams it with bold lips. WALK THE LINE Graphic and colour: two standout themes for the season are interpreted with military precision. BRUSH STROKES Whether or not you wear them feathered out and bird-like for high impact, lashes are back for autumn/winter ’16/’17.…

From choppy bangs to the sweeping side version, there’s no doubt that the fringe has made a convincing return to the runway. At Isabel Marant and Michael Kors, faux fringes were the order of the day, framing the face just so. Elsewhere, individuality was embraced, fringe and all, from model Mica Arganaraz at Alexander Wang, whose untamed curls fall somewhere between lid and lash, to British model Sam Rollinson, whose Birkin-esque bangs at Topshop Unique make a strong case for the chop. And yes, the eyes may be the window to the soul, but you’ve got to get past that fringe first. So go on, try it. We dare you. Complexion perfection When it comes to make-up application one rule always rings true: start with a good base. Thanks to…

I have to talk to Silvia,” bellows the European television presenter backstage at the Fendi show in Milan. She’s wielding a microphone with the logo of her show, and paws towards the unmarked door, trying to push her way past the public relations executives who mill outside on guard. They’re watching the clock to make sure Silvia Venturini Fendi – inside, behind the door – remains on schedule. After fashion shows there is always a hubbub of activity. Charlotte Stockdale, the stylist and consultant, stays outside, showing her industry friends her new heels, the hem of a skirt and receiving congratulations on the show. Kendall Jenner and Karl Lagerfeld have already slipped away. Lagerfeld is in charge of designing the ready-to-wear line and works closely with Venturini Fendi, who is…

A.F. Vandevorst www.afvandevorst.be. A.P.C. available from a selection at www.Net-A-Porter.com. Acne (02) 9360 0294 and available from a selection at Bloodorange (02) 9357 2424 and Harrolds (02) 9232 8399. Akira (02) 9361 5221, (03) 9663 5003 or (07) 3252 4919. Alaïa www.alaia.fr. Alexander McQueen accessories available from a selection at Cosmopolitan Shoes (02) 9362 0510 and Miss Louise (03) 9654 7730. Alexander McQueen clothing available from a selection at Cultstatus (08) 9481 8886, David Jones 133 357, Marais (03) 8658 9555 and www.Net-A-Porter.com. Alexander Wang available from a selection at Belinda (02) 9380 8725, Bloodorange (02) 9357 2424, David Jones 133 357 and The Corner Shop (02) 9380 9828. Alexis Bittar www.alexisbittar.com. Altuzarra available from a selection at www.farfetch.com and www.matchesfashion.com. Ambra www.ambra.net.au. Anndra Neen…

Streetwear has cemented its influence in high fashion, but off the runway labels that have their roots in real life – from skate brands to sneakers and army surplus – are experiencing a resurgence. These labels use stealthy codifying markers known only to the initiated: this guide will decipher the word on the street. Fear of God Three years in and Jerry Lorenzo s label is a favourite among celebrities and street-style stars. Off-duty and vintage-inflected is the MO, with 90s a reoccurring theme. Identify by: Each piece has a worn-in look that only well-loved staples get. Gosha Rubchinskiy Russian men s label Gosha Rubchinskiy has garnered a cult unisex following. The designer appropriates the iconography of sports labels like Fila in his street-ready pieces. Identify by: Communist motifs, sports…

“IN REAL LIFE SHE’S KARLIE, SHE DOESN’T TRY TO BE A DIFFERENT PERSON” These days the meeting of a celebrity is accompanied by a standard ritual: greetings, small talk and a selfie. The modern-day equivalent of an autograph, the selfie has ousted the scrawled name on memorabilia as a memento of an A-list meeting. So it was that model Karlie Kloss is taking photos of herself on my phone, trying different angles, and pivoting 90 degrees on a settee in a Midtown penthouse to face an arched window. Head resting on her chin, a pout, blowing a kiss, an adorable smile. “Daylight is the best light,” she says knowingly before handing back a perfect scroll of 10 portraits taken at speed. She’s just flown back to her current home of…

Femininity shouldn’t equal fragility. Was it a sign of the times then that Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Valentino all chose utilitarian foils to encase pretty party dresses? Miuccia Prada had an optimistic take on the world today that requires us to protect ourselves – in Miu Miu’s case that meant waxed army khaki coats, and in Stella McCartney’s puffers-cum-parkas that swaddle the wearer – but still allow us to drape ourselves in sumptuous dinner dress, should we so desire. Perhaps what Miuccia was trying to say in pairing tough outerwear with flippy skirts was that although everyone seems to be at war on the surface, fashion proffers the chance to be defiantly light at heart. Basic instinct Mastering wardrobe staples is a skill and one that Australian model Bridget Malcolm…

For a 25-year-old model, a veteran by today’s standards, Shanina Shaik has ticked off gigs that are at the top of many of her colleagues’ lists: Victoria’s Secret model, cover girl, walking the runway for Chanel and now fronting Seafolly’s newest campaign – all of which have her traversing the world. Shaik flew from her base in New York to Byron Bay, along with models Hannah Ferguson and Nadine Leopold, to shoot the campaign. She says it felt like showing friends around. “Nadine lives in New York and so does Hannah, so I’m kind of like their little travel guide showing them where I grew up and all the amazing beaches,” she says. Here she takes on the role again for Vogue, from the local to the far-flung. THE PERFECT…

“I’D SPEND HOURS LEARNING SONGS FROM THE LYRICS WRITTEN ON THE BACK OF ALBUMS” Let’s get it out of the way. Renée Zellweger looks perfectly normal to me, and I’m standing an inch away from her nose. Her characterful, quirky face first appeared on our screens 20 years ago when, aged 27, she played Dorothy Boyd, Tom Cruise’s love interest in Jerry Maguire. And now, guess what? Aged 47, she looks … older. Shock, horror! The round face, bee-stung lips and eyes that crinkle so endearingly have been joined by some lines, and if she has done something to her face (and does it really matter?), then hats off to her, she looks terrific. Now the elephant is out of the room, there are things to be discussed, including Zellweger’s…

MAKE-UP ARTISTS AND HAIRSTYLISTS ARE EMBRACING NATURAL FEATURES – UNTAMED FRIZZ, LEFT-FIELD HAIRCUTS Park Avenue, between 66th and 67th streets. It’s February in New York, and bitterly cold. Backstage at Marc Jacobs’s autumn/winter ’16/’17 show, the closing runway of the week, legendary make-up artist François Nars has a sizeable task on his hands. “Marc said that he wanted all the girls to have a different look, to express their individuality,” he says of the various goth-inspired looks he painstakingly face-painted onto 65 models, each one completely unique. While Marc Jacobs was an extreme case of individualism, both in the application and the epic task at hand, it echoes the tone that’s been resonating backstage for the past few seasons. In the fashion and beauty cosmos, a trend is a tool…

1 SPEED OF LIGHT Do you religiously slather on a broad-spectrum sunscreen? The latest research shows the full light spectrum, comprised of UV-A, UV-B, visible light and infrared, is more harmful than we first thought, and your current sunscreen may not be shielding your skin from the breadth of the problem. In fact, infrared and visible light (which your current sunscreen likely doesn’t protect against) are also key causes of photo-ageing in the skin. Expect to see a slew of souped-up sunscreens this summer as well as antioxidant-rich creams to combat free radicals, a natural by-product of exposure to infrared and visible light. 2 INGREDIENT TO KNOW: COPPER IT’S NOT UNUSUAL TO SEE GOLD, SILVER AND EVEN CAVIAR IN YOUR FACE CREAM, BUT THE NEW BUZZ INGREDIENT IS DECIDEDLY LESS…

“WE WILL KNOW FROM BIRTH WHAT WE SHOULD OR SHOULDN’T BE EATING” The beginning of the 21st century may one day be remembered as a bizarre time in human history when our species was completely confused about what to eat. We barely cooked, ordered in, dined out, over-ate then counted calories or followed fad diets prescribing crazy combinations of carbohydrates, fats and proteins. We also splurged on supplements and superfoods, salivated over #foodporn and devoured pseudo science on social media urging us to #eatthis and #quitthat. However, the relatively new science of nutrigenomics is about to revolutionise the way we eat and exercise. While genetic testing is widely used to determine our risk of diseases such as breast cancer, nutrition scientists are now able to look at how our genes…

Winged urchin, dancing on the greensward floor, one scrawny arm, upraised to hold the pose, brings balance to your body and your flight. I wish you fame: I know what fame bestows.” – Edgar Degas In Salle 31 at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, surrounded by Cézannes, Monets and Manets, a tiny dancer stands in situ, posing in ballet’s fourth position with one leg twisted in front of the other, her tutu hanging limp mid-thigh, a ribbon tied around the back of her hair, and her slightly pinched face with its sweet snub nose pointing upwards as if in defiance of an instruction from a tutor. On a recent visit I was admiring the bronze sculpture La Petite Danseuse de Quatorze Ans (The Little Dancer Aged 14, 1881), one of…

It’s hard not to think of the decades-spanning construction that transformed Louis XIII’s simple countryside hunting lodge into his son’s great palace at Versailles when considering the nearly four years and reported US$200 million it has taken to restore the Ritz hotel in Paris to its famous standards of beauty and opulence. Physical evidence alone aligns the two great monuments historiques of France: while official accounts of César Ritz’s destination for luxury typically begin in 1898, the year he opened its doors, the property’s latest restoration – a Herculean undertaking finally completed only recently and motivated in part by a wish to preserve antiquities – reminds us that the building’s facade actually dates from 1705. It was sketched by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the chief architect to Louis XIV whose design ambitions…

VIRGO 24 AUGUST – 23 SEPTEMBER Change is in the air. If you’ve had a change of mind lately, what you finally decide you want now probably wasn’t on your radar a year ago. Investing in love and beauty to get the best of both are high priorities as money – and the harmony and happiness you can spread with it – is about to become a major motivator. STYLE ICON: Stella McCartney LIBRA 24 SEPTEMBER – 23 OCTOBER Get your passport, as a journey to boost your power and popularity starts now. It could be an actual journey or a voyage of self-discovery, and despite a bumpy start the pay-offs will be worth it. Ambitions achieved, better love and your home life transformed? Tick. Be in it for the…

Vogue’s August issue: HRH Crown Princess Mary Our feature with the Danish royal couple was loved the world over. “Beautiful cover @vogueaustralia, greetings from Denmark,” said @soeslauridsen on Instagram. “It doesn’t get any better. We Danes love them, so glad Aussies do too,” wrote @auntistocialt on Instagram: “Stunning photos, best issue cover by far.” On Facebook, Sara Louisa said: “Loved the issue this month … great articles and beautiful cover shot of Mary.” Many readers adored her family. “Amazed at how quickly their babies have grown up …” said @pandoraspocks on Instagram. “Beautiful photo … the family that plays together stays together,” replied @leonie_fryar. THE HEIGHT OF COUTURE: The twice-yearly haute couture shows are when the world’s finest ateliers show off their wares. Fendi showed a 90th-anniversary collection at (and…

Most of us have felt love at first sight when it comes to fashion, but when theres confusion or uncertainty in response to something new, thats all right too. True change elicits an extreme response: a shift in taste, the eye adjusting – and that’s when fashion really gets interesting. After all, a bit of fashion controversy never hurt anyone: think of Marc Jacobs’s scandalous grunge collection for Perry Ellis in 1992, which cost him his job, or Tom Fords unabashed high-glamour sexiness for Gucci in the 90s, a daring that shocked some. Yet both became era-defining. We know there s real change afoot right now, given Alessandro Michele’s recent look for Gucci, and with the buzz surrounding Demna Gvasalias own label Vetements and his work at Balenciaga – a…

“DARK WONDERLAND WILL BE AN INSTALLATION, A JOURNEY AND PLACE OF CONTEMPLATION” Vogue: When did you two first meet? Karen Quinlan: “It’s difficult to pinpoint an exact moment. In 2008, Jen Hawkins wore a fabulous Maticevski to our celebrated exhibition from the Victoria and Albert Museum’s The Golden Age of Couture, and I suspect this is when I first crossed paths with Toni. The conversation about an exhibition occurred on the runway of a Melbourne Fashion Festival show in 2013!” Toni Maticevski: “Was it 2012 or 2013? I can’t actually remember either! But yes, it was around the time I did that custom gown for Jen, which later made an appearance in our fall 2009 collection in New York, and then a custom version for Abbie Cornish, which she wore…

Elsa Hosk has turned it on for the camera. Dressed in pieces for David Jones’s latest campaign, with the soaring New York City skyline as a backdrop, she coquettishly tilts her head to one side, relaxes into the pose and slowly turns, looking back over one shoulder. As her gaze settles on the six-strong photo crew, she smiles with the sort of easy familiarity one usually saves for a group of close friends. If this sort of extreme physical composure is what makes Hosk a natural model, then she can thank basketball – which she played professionally in her home country of Sweden – for her success. “My athletic background actually helped a lot in my modelling career,” she tells us between takes. “Both require you to have complete control…

Whether in taffeta, silk, velvet or lace, how I yearn for the return of the ballgown. When I was young, everyone wore one. I spent many an evening sitting on my mother’s bed watching her get dolled up in one of her gowns: poufy, floor-length frocks in shades of turquoise, fuchsia pink, red, emerald green. As a debutante, she had worn many for her “coming out” during “the season”, an age-old British tradition in which daughters of the aristocracy and upper class were presented at court to the king and queen in London. This culminated in Queen Charlotte’s Ball, the greatest ballgown showdown of the year (long white gloves included), during which debutantes had to curtsey to a cake. As ridiculous as it sounds now, it looked wonderful then. As…

“AT HERMÈS ALL THE DOORS OPENED FOR ME, ALL THE UNIVERSE OPENED FOR ME” There’s a woman in your life. You probably haven’t met her, but she’s been there for most of your important milestones: first kiss, first date, graduation, wedding. Chances are if you charted your fragrance history, Christine Nagel’s exceptional nose would have had some influence. As the perfumer behind some of the most iconic fragrances of the past 20 years (Giorgio Armani Sì, Narciso Rodriguez for Her and Jo Malone Peony & Blush Suede, to name but a few) she has continued to influence the field of fragrance, not by following trends but by creating them. Which was why the beauty industry and fragrance fan clubs alike waited with bated breath for Galop d’Hermès, her first solo…

Make no mistake, David Mallett’s new salon on the first floor of the Paris Ritz hotel will be nothing like his original namesake outpost just 10 minutes down the road. “I have no desire to reproduce what I’ve done here,” he says of the lofty apartment-cum-salon punctuated by taxidermy animals and equally eccentric clientele. “This was an organic, intuitive, one-off, and the salon at the Ritz is an entirely different project.” With just half a dozen chairs, the recently opened Ritz salon is cosier, yes, and will offer a Ritz-level of dedications including in-room blow-dries and haircuts on call. “It’s very service-oriented; it’s going to have different opening hours from here,” says Mallett, who was hand-picked (along with Chanel, which has created its very first spa at the Ritz) to…

A DEFINING MOMENT OF ROMANTIC ESCAPISM WITH A RICH MIX OF FLUTTERING DRESSES, SHEER PIECES AND ARTFULLY AWKWARD COLOUR THAT OFFERS SO MUCH OPPORTUNITY TO DRESS UP AND SHINE. WITNESS FASHION’S REVOLUTION. SHOT AT THE BEACH AND ON THE STREETS OF RIO DE JANEIRO. PHOTOGRAPHED BY SEBASTIAN KIM. STYLED BY CHRISTINE CENTENERA.                …

“YOU JUST DIG IN AND WORK REALLY HARD … YOU IMAGINE, YOU DREAM A BIT” Jared Leto is standing, statesman-like, with one hand on his hip and one hand resting on the top of a high-backed armchair. Were it not for the knitted hat and animal-motif sweater, straight from the Gucci wardrobe, you would think he was posing for a Renaissance painting. But then, in a way, he is. Leto – actor, musician, lady-killer, vagabond – is known as something of a modern-day Renaissance man. Which is fitting, given his current status as a muse to fashion’s gifted and compelling Gucci creative director, Alessandro Michele, who appointed Leto the face of the fragrance Gucci Guilty last December. The pair are kindred spirits, sharing a passion for the creative process, ethereal…

“IF YOU STAND ON THE SIDELINES AND EXPECT SOMEONE ELSE TO DO THINGS, IT’S NOT REALLY HELPFUL” Many years ago when Francesca Packer Barham was still a child, three generations of Packers got together for one of their regular family dinners, this time at an Italian restaurant in Bondi. The group – younger brothers Benjamin and William, and Francesca’s mother Gretel and grandmother Roslyn – were trying out suggestions for an appropriate grandmotherly nickname, when the dessert arrived. “She’s too cool to be a ‘granny’, she just doesn’t fit it,” explains Francesca. “She wears blue mascara, and wears it really, really well! We were eating the most amazing chocolate dessert, and it was called Nonna Dolce . And we all looked at it and suddenly said: ‘Nonna – perfect.’ And…

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